Recommendations for installing the EUR on the Lada Granta. List of faults and ways to eliminate them

Author: Ivan Baranov

Installing an EUR on a Granta Standard is a common reason for the owners of these cars to contact a car service center. However, with proper skill, you can easily do everything yourself. Read the article about how to install such a system if you have a Lada Granta and whether it’s worth doing it at all.

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Replacement of electric power steering Lada Granta

The electric booster reduces the force on the steering wheel, making it easier to drive the car.
The basis of the electric booster is a brushless electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering cover.

A worm is installed on the motor shaft, which meshes with a plastic gear mounted on the steering shaft.

The operation of the electric booster is coordinated by an electronic control unit that changes the voltage supplied to the electric motor based on information received from sensors of vehicle speed, crankshaft speed and the amount of torque on the steering shaft.

The electric motor turns the steering column shaft through a gearbox with a certain torque.

The control unit provides sufficient steering information in all vehicle driving modes.

When the car is stationary, the torque on the shaft created by the electric amplifier is maximum; as the vehicle speed increases, the “assistance” of the amplifier decreases and the steering wheel becomes “heavier.”

If the electric booster fails, the car retains full controllability, while the steering wheel becomes somewhat “heavier” than on a car without an electric booster, since an additional load appears in the form of a freely rotating electric motor rotor

In the instrument cluster there is a fault indicator for the electric power steering.

It lights up when the ignition is turned on and goes out after the engine starts. If the electric booster fails, the indicator lights up constantly.

The electric booster does not work when the engine is not running.

The electric booster can be turned off:

— when the on-board network voltage decreases;

— in the absence of a signal from the speed sensor and the engine speed is above 1500 min 1

Such shutdowns are built into the operating algorithm of the electric amplifier and are not signs of a malfunction.

Removal

You will need: a screwdriver with a Phillips blade, keys “8”, “13” (two), socket wrench “13”.

Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the steering wheel.

Pull towards and remove the fuse box cover.

Remove the steering column switches.

Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the steering column switch connector.

Disconnect the ignition switch power wiring harness connectors.

Disconnect the immobilizer read coil wiring harness connectors.

Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the electromechanical power steering control unit connector.

Similarly, disconnect the second wiring harness block from the control unit.

Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the universal joint of the electromechanical amplifier on the side of the propeller shaft of the steering mechanism and remove the bolt.

Unscrew the two upper nuts securing the electromechanical amplifier to the body, unscrew the two lower nuts 3–4 turns

Remove the electromechanical amplifier from the car.

This is what the steering shaft assembly looks like when removed from the car.

Loosen the clamp of the steering column switch connector

Remove the screw securing the protective casing.

Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the electromechanical power steering control unit

Similarly, disconnect the second wiring harness block from the control unit.

Remove the two screws securing the control unit to the electromechanical power steering bracket

Remove the control unit.

Pay attention to its markings so that when replacing, purchase a similar unit.

Install the electromechanical power steering in the reverse order of removal.

If, when adjusting the height, the steering wheel does not lock well in the specified position, tighten the locking pin nut

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Frequently asked questions about EUR

Hi all. I decided to write a publication in the logbook, in which I will try to answer frequently asked questions, namely: 1. What kind of ESD are there and what cars are installed on them. 2. Why the EUR fails. 3. Which EUR is most reliable. 4. What you need to pay attention to when purchasing an EUR. 5. How to choose from whom to buy EUR on Avito.

This publication will concern EURs installed on VAZ cars. So, let's go:

EUR

— electric power steering, designed to reduce the control force applied to the steering wheel.

1. What kind of ESD are there?

1.1 EURs manufactured by Aviagregat, Makhachkala, were installed on the Kalina car. These EURs have been installed on Kalina cars since 2006. EUR data has never been installed on Prioras. The design of the EUR is geared. Kalina was also equipped with EUR manufactured by Avtoelektronika, Kaluga.

1.2 The grant car was equipped with EUR manufactured by Mando Korea. These ESD data were installed on Grant cars from 2012 to 2014. Fragile body. In the event of an accident, the EUR housing breaks. The design of the EUR is geared. EURs manufactured by Avtoelektronika, Kaluga were also installed on Granta and are still installed to this day.

1.3 EURs manufactured only by Avtoelektronika, Kaluga, have been installed on Priora cars since 2007. From 2007 to 2008 version 646 was installed In 2009 version 660 was installed From 2010 to 2011 version 670 was installed (the most reliable version) In 2011 version 702 was installed In 2012 version 10301 was installed And so on

2 Why does the EUR fail?

2.1 Unstable power supply to the unit. Most of the clients who come for EUR repairs have faulty car generators. The problem is standard and familiar to everyone; over time, the generator wears out and begins to produce a low voltage level under load. Remember, if the generator is faulty, the first thing that fails is the EUR. If your light bulbs or fuses are constantly on, then you need to first check the generator, and not change the burnt out element and scold the manufacturer. It is necessary to eliminate the cause, not the effect. Your diode bridge or relay regulator may be faulty. There may be a problem in the wiring (Bad or damaged ground wire of the battery - Housing, Housing - EUR). The 50A fuse, located in the fuse box next to the battery, may have burned out. You can check the wiring with a multimeter. Turn on the low beams and the heater at full power. We measure the voltage at the output of the generator, the voltage should be no lower than 13.8 volts, otherwise it’s time to check your generator when it’s cold and when it’s hot, not lower than 13.4 V. We check the voltage drop on the wires and 2 fuses (60A) as follows: One probe We place the multimeter on the output of the generator, the second one on the + terminal of the battery. Look at the voltage drop. The voltage drop should not be more than 200 mV (0.200 V). It’s the same with the mass, only we take measurements between the generator housing and the car body. The voltage drop should not be more than 50 mV. (0.05 V). All figures are taken from personal experience and are not supported by tabular values. If the voltage drop is greater than that indicated above, look for the cause or add dubbing. 2.2 Power consumers are connected incorrectly. Are you a loud music lover? Then this section is for you. To connect powerful consumers, you need to correctly calculate the load current and the current that your generator can provide. If the current consumption exceeds the current supplied by the generator, then you will always have “light music” in your car. As a result, the battery and, as a result, the EUR will suffer. Installation of wires should be done on terminals and with brake shrinkage, and not with electrical tape and twists. When installing non-standard electrical equipment, it is necessary to study the theory and only then move on to practice. Unfortunately, most often the opposite happens. This applies not only to music, but to any powerful consumer, for example, heated windshield. 2.3 Incorrect operation of the ESD. Often during operation, people using the ESD do not even know that it is impossible to hold the ESD in extreme positions! Having twisted the EUR to its extreme position, the driver continues to press the steering wheel further, tries with all his might to spin the wheels, but they have already reached the extreme position of the steering rack, but the EUR does not know about this. The EUR does not have the concept of “extreme position”. If the driver continues to press on the steering wheel, it means the wheels need to be turned more. At this moment, the current on the power transistors of the EUR increases significantly. Which in turn leads to overheating of the transistors and failure of the control unit. 2.4 Steering problems. The rack began to knock and the owner of the car, without thinking about the consequences, took and tightened the rack. The noise seems to have become quieter, or maybe disappeared altogether, but the load on the power steering has increased. As a result of overheating of the transistors in the EUR control unit, a failure occurs and the owner of the car begins to swear, then the rack, then the EUR... “not a car, but junk.” With a working steering system, the steering shaft force should be no more than 20 N*m. The power supply current consumption is within 15 A.

Friends, sometimes the failure of your EUR is you yourself, but a person by nature is ready to blame himself on anything, but not on himself.

3. Which EUR is most reliable.

In my opinion, the most reliable EUR Priora is version 670. It’s a pity that it was produced only from 10 to 11. By the way, 11 years old already come across with 0204 transistors, which is not very good. Why 670? 1. Non-contact torque sensor from Valeo. Increases reliability many times over 646 and 660. (Photo of Valeo sensor) 2. Very reliable transistor bridge from IXYS. Increases reliability many times over 702 or 10301 and newer versions. (Photo of transistors) 3. All-milled aluminum case, which is a very good heatsink for power transistors. Compared to the blocks of the new sample, they cannot be compared. (Photo of buildings)

Which EURs, in my opinion, are the weakest: 646 and 660. (photo of control units) The year of their release was 2007-2009. Their torque sensor is of contact type. And over the years of operation, they have exhausted their entire resource. The tracks on the sliding contacts are frayed. As a result, the signal from the torque sensor is either there or not. Such work of the DM leads to the fact that the steering wheel begins to twitch on its own. I do not recommend buying EUR versions 646 and 660. I would not recommend installing 646 or 660 EUR on cars like Gazelle, Niva or UAZ, these EURs are very “delicate”, they will suit the maximum front-wheel drive VAZ and classics.

My advice to you: If you are going to buy an EUR, then under no circumstances do not take the 660 and especially the 646 EUR. These models have already exhausted their entire service life and are complete rubbish, it’s like buying yourself a washing machine that’s 13 years old. It wouldn’t even occur to you, would it?

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Operating principle of the EUR

Every time you turn the steering wheel, the torsion shaft twists. Information about this process is transmitted from the torque sensor to the control unit online.

Based on the information received, the electronic control unit (hereinafter referred to as the ECU) accumulates information and reads readings from other sensors. The ECU transmits a signal to the electric motor, which increases the torque of the steering rack shaft by activating the electric motor.

Information is processed so quickly that tenths of seconds pass from the moment of transmission to the moment of reading.

Steering rack adjustment

The unit knocks for various reasons. In fact, this is a real disease of the control mechanism, inherited from the Lada Kalina, since the components are identical on these cars. You can adjust the rack yourself.

To do this you will need a minimum of tools:

• steering rack calibration key;
• socket heads for 10 and 13;
• shaped screwdriver.

To tighten the slats, you can use two methods. The first involves using a special key that can be inserted into the gap of the arch on the left side. The second method is more labor-intensive and is suitable if it is not possible to stick your hand into the gap. To do this, you will need to dismantle the battery and its platform; this is the only way to get to the nut for tightening the gearbox. The first method is simple, so it’s better to consider the second option.

To do this, you need to disconnect the battery terminals and remove it, and then remove the platform under it. Now you can get to the nut located on the inside of the gearbox housing. You can buy a combination wrench for tightening, on the one hand - for tightening the rack, on the other - for tensioning the timing belt.

To tighten the nut, turn it clockwise.

Possible malfunctions of the EUR on the Lada Grante Liftback (Sedan)

Steering Features Grants

The Granta steering wheel is a standard rack and pinion type; the drive consists of two steering rods combined into a single structure using ball joints. Theoretically it is not bad, but practice shows otherwise. The tie rod holes are incredibly huge, which is good for air exchange, but bad for pollution. Surprisingly, such practical AvtoVAZ masters somehow did not think about this pressing issue before. To correct this defect, many car owners install simple Lada steering rod plugs.

Most often, Granta steering wheels suffer from loose fasteners. What can be done in this case? You just have to tighten the nuts tighter. You can also note the occurrence of knocking in the steering wheel. To correct the problem, you should tighten the nuts if they are loose, or replace the parts if, upon inspection, you find that they are worn out. If the Lada Granta steering wheel rotates too tightly, you will have to change the bearing. In some cases, it is necessary to repair the suspension strut and lubricate the parts.

Review of prices of manufacturers of electric power steering for the Lada Granta

*prices are current as of October 19, 2018.

List of online stores, addresses of companies providing services

Reviews of companies

• Vasily: six months ago I installed a servo drive on Grant at the A1-Motors service station. The guys did everything quickly and professionally. My recommendations.
• Ivan: after buying the Lada, I replaced the power steering with an electric steering system. I ordered the work from the service station “Auto Service on Sedova”. New equipment, many repair boxes, work professionally.
• Innokenty: comrades recommended installing an EUR. I bought it at the Motel Varshavsky parts store. Good quality, reasonable prices, bonuses when purchasing.
• Vladlen: I drove the power steering for two years and decided to switch to the electric power steering. They advised to buy from Expert-Auto. Six months have passed since installation, no complaints, my recommendations.
• Vyacheslav: I’m leaving my positive review about the auto parts store “Spare Parts on Wheels”. Professional advice, reasonable prices, friendly staff.

Preparatory stage before installing the EUR on the Lada Granta

Note to the driver! There are no differences in installing the EUR on the Lada Granta Sedan and the Lada Granta Liftback. Factory mounts are identical.

• EUR (11186-3450008-02): synchronous power unit, control controller, brackets, shaft, gearbox;
• intermediate bracket (11186-3403172-00);
• non-separable intermediate steering shaft (72780);
• blocks with wires for connecting to the central power circuit (2110-3724155);
• LED indicating the good condition of the amplifier;
• plastic clamps;
• fasteners;
• set of automotive tools;
• insulation;
• clamps.

Premiere of the Lada Granta Liftback

N

Russian factories often delight us with premieres,

so let's go to Udmurtia to see the Lada Granta Liftback, which is assembled at the IzhAvto plant. The Lada Granta Liftback is offered with three power units: the first is a 1.6-liter eight-valve four-cylinder petrol engine with an output of 87 hp.

, aggregated with a five-speed manual transmission, the second is a “Prior” 16-valve 1.6-liter engine with a capacity of 98 hp, which is offered only with a Jatco four-speed automatic transmission, and the third is the same 1.6-liter engine from Priora, but modernized, which produces 106 hp.

— it can only be combined with a five-speed manual transmission. All engines are supplied with a lightweight connecting rod and piston group with a graphitized piston skirt, which eliminates rubbing during cold starts.

All liftbacks produced in Izhevsk are equipped with a Kaluga electric power steering, which differs significantly from the Korean Mando electric power steering - it is more compact and more efficient, because the rotor on the Kaluga electric power steering is mounted directly on the steering shaft.

One of the car's signature advantages is its high ground clearance - an honest 180 mm, which decreases to 165 mm under load. All cars are currently offered in five colors with outlandish names: red "Magma", "White Cloud", dark blue "Odyssey", silver with light sandy shades of Riesling and Black Truffle. Truffle will surely become the favorite color of Moscow Spartak.

Equipment "Standard-21911-40-710

The basic version of the liftback with an 8-valve engine, comes with a manual gearbox with a VAZ-2181 cable drive, a driver's airbag, unpainted side mirrors and door handles, an instrument cluster without an on-board computer, ISOFIX child seat mounts, headlights with DRLs, an immobilizer, one-piece a rear seat back without head restraints, a headliner without handrails, a non-power steering with a gear speed of 4.02, a tilt-adjustable steering column, a central locking system, a single key for the ignition and doors, audio equipment and stamped rims. Such a car costs 314,000 rubles.

Equipment “Norma”0)

The car with the same engine is distinguished by the presence of a modernized VAZ-2180 cable gearbox with a reinforced secondary shaft package, a separate rear seat backrest with headrests, silver edging on the door handrails and all air ducts on the front panel, ABS+BAS, instrument cluster with on-board computer functions, steering gear with ESD and a “short” rack 3.10, ceiling handrails, an air filter entering the cabin, glass with an overtinted athermal effect, power windows for the front doors, trunk opening buttons in the cabin. For such a Lada you will have to pay 346,100 rubles. In addition to all of the above, the “Norma” version with a 106-horsepower engine (21917-41-710) has an Itelma multimedia system with 4 speakers, Bluetooth, a USB input and a slot for SD cards - this Granta Liftback will cost 367,600 rubles.

"Lux" package 0)

The next stage already has a 106-horsepower engine.

This car sports an upgraded suspension, a passenger airbag, front seat belt pretensioners, LED turn signals, fog lights, an ignition key with a remote control (doors and trunk), an alarm system, an extended sound insulation package, an eyeglass holder on the ceiling, and height-adjustable front seat belts. , heated front seats, power windows in the rear doors, climate control system SAUKU with a function to maintain a set temperature and 15-inch alloy wheels. The price of the car in this version is already 419,500 rubles.

The most “luxury” version stands apart

0) with a 98-horsepower engine and a 4-speed automatic transmission. To all of the above, ESC stability control system, rear parking sensors, rain and light sensors are added. This Lada already costs 477,500 rubles, although it is not possible to find a car on the market with this level of equipment for the same money.

Source https://auto.mail.ru/article/47552-lada_granta_liftback_normalnaya_mashina/

Source: https://pantv.livejournal.com/282804.html

Reviews

Conclusion

Installing an EUR on Granta Standard is completely justified and necessary. To prevent breakdowns and incorrect operation of the mechanism, order services from certified service stations, where they provide a quality guarantee.

Negative reviews addressed to the EUR are caused by violation of operating conditions by the owners and unprofessional installation.

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