The VAZ-2110 cooling fan does not work. Cooling fan connection diagram

To ensure safe and stable thermal conditions of an internal combustion engine, precise operation of the cooling system is required. The slightest failure will lead to overheating of the engine, which can lead to burnout of the head gasket or failure of the piston group elements.

The radiator fan is one of the key components of the car cooling system. Its role is to promptly force cool the liquid in the radiator. Problems with turning it on are a common occurrence for our cars.

In this article we will talk about possible reasons why the VAZ-2110 cooling fan does not work, and also consider options for eliminating them. But first, let's understand its design and operating principle.

Fan connection diagram in carburetor and injection engines

The control of forced radiator airflow in carburetor and injection engines of the VAZ-2110 is significantly different. Firstly, the fan switch located on the radiator housing is responsible for everything. It is set to a certain coolant temperature. Usually it is 105-107 oC. When the coolant heats up to this temperature, the sensor is triggered, sending a signal to the fan relay. It closes the electrical circuit, driving the electric motor.

Turning on the cooling fan of a VAZ-2110 with an injection engine occurs somewhat differently. In engines equipped with an electronic control unit, there is no sensor on the radiator. Its place was taken by a temperature sensor located on the thermostat pipe. When the coolant heats up to a temperature of 105-107 oC, it sends a signal directly to the controller, which makes the decision to turn on the fan. It transmits an electrical impulse to a relay, which turns on the electric drive.

Fan replacement

If the problem still lies in the fan itself, then it would be best to replace it with a new one. The stove fan can, of course, be repaired, but this may involve, for example, replacing the brushes. It simply doesn’t make sense to carry out more comprehensive repairs, since you can’t hope for long-term service for such a part. Replacing a VAZ-2110 stove fan requires selecting a new part. There are two options here: find an old-style part or buy a new spare part. The second option is more acceptable and accessible.

VAZ stove fan

The replacement process is not as complicated as it might seem. It is enough to be able to work with standard tools, have free time and have the desire to tinker with your own machine. To replace a faulty fan, you must follow the following work plan:

Open the hood and remove the battery negative terminal.
We remove the windshield wipers by prying and dismantling the rubber caps. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts and remove the brushes.
Using a slotted screwdriver, pry up the decorative plugs, unscrew the screws on the frill and the nuts on the edges. Now we can remove the frill.
Under the rubber seal you can find screws that hold the shield from the engine compartment. We also unscrew them.
We dismantle the hose through which washer fluid is supplied to the injectors.

The process of replacing a fan is not as complicated as it seems

On the right side of the engine compartment, there are two nuts on the bottom side that fit a 10mm socket wrench. They are difficult to get to, but you don’t have to unscrew them all the way, because with a few turns the shield can be easily removed.
It is necessary to remove the clamps from the hose that connects to the vacuum booster of the brake system in advance.
There are four self-tapping screws on the cabin filter cover; after unscrewing them, you can easily remove it.
Already at this stage the outlines of the stove motor are visible. But you will also need to disconnect the block on the heating system motor and on the resistor.
After the work has been done, it becomes possible to dismantle the left side of the stove along with the motor.
A new part is installed in place of the damaged element, and assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

If you have never had to remove a heating system fan before, this process may take several hours. But in the future, any problem with the heating system can be fixed much faster. Even if something doesn’t work out for you during your work, you don’t need to stop trying to achieve a positive result. Over time, everything will definitely work out.

Possible faults

If the VAZ-2110 cooling fan does not work, do not rush to contact a car service center. You can determine the cause of the malfunction yourself. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to have special skills for this.

The cooling system fan may not turn on due to:

electric drive malfunctions;
blown fuse;
faulty thermostat;
a failed fan switch (temperature);
faulty relay;
broken electrical wiring;
faulty expansion tank plug.

Problems with the electrical circuit

If checking the reservoir cap does not reveal any faults, then the problem may lie in the circuit.

The search should begin by checking the serviceability of fuse F7. To do this, you need to gain access to the mounting block and check the contacts for the presence of oxidative traces. If nothing of the sort was noted, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, clean the contact connections or simply replace the fuse with a new element. The part is inexpensive.

The next step is to check the fan switch sensor:

Initially, warm up the car to 100 degrees.
Turn off the engine and immediately start the engine.
Open the hood and disconnect the terminal from the fan sensor.
If, after disconnecting the contact, the fan starts working, then the unit is operational, but the sensor needs to be replaced.
When the fan does not turn on after disconnecting the terminal, then the situation is the opposite - the sensor is working, but the fan is not.

Electric motor breakdowns are often the reason why the fan does not turn on. If all the previous measures did not help you find the problem, then you will need to dismantle the electric motor. The following problems can be identified in this node:

The commutator brushes are worn.
The brushes are stuck.
There was a short circuit in the armature winding - the problem is identified by a characteristic smell.

Problems with the relay. Sometimes a situation arises when the cooling system fan start button simply fails. In this case, you will need to carry out the following work:

Remove the trim on the right side of the dashboard inside the passenger compartment. To do this, you need to unscrew two screws.
Under this panel there are three relays.
The required relay is usually located on the side in relation to the front of the car.
To be sure to act correctly, find the car's operating manual and check the wires that go to the relay we need.
To solve the problem with the relay, you just need to install a new element. You should not skimp on this component. Cheap models break down very quickly.

How to check the thermostat

The function of the thermostat in an internal combustion engine is to regulate the flow of coolant, directing it in either a small or large circle. While the engine is cold, its valve blocks the flow of coolant into the cooling radiator. This allows the engine to warm up faster.

When the coolant warms up, the thermostat valve opens, directing it to the radiator for cooling. If the valve jams, the coolant constantly moves in a small circle, not reaching either the fan switch sensor or the temperature sensor. In this case, the liquid may even boil, but the sensors, being uninvolved in such a circuit, will not work.

Check the thermostat by determining the temperature of its pipes by touch. When the engine is warm, they should all be hot. If the pipe leading from the thermostat to the cooling radiator is cold, the locking device is faulty.

What to do when the fan runs constantly

There are situations when the cooling radiator works without interruption, both on a hot and cold engine. The reasons can be very different. Now we will look at the main problems and ways to solve them.

A break in the sensor that monitors the antifreeze temperature readings or its circuits. In this case, the Check engine light comes on. The circuits and sensor are checked with an ohmmeter. The problem is solved by replacing the element with a new one.
The fan relay contacts open. First, the component is checked with a multimeter and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.
Malfunctions in the ECU. Check this node on the profile service. If a malfunction is detected, the firmware or the unit is changed completely.
In VAZ carburetor models, the thermal switch contacts do not open. To check operation, disconnect the terminals from the terminals of this unit - and the fan will stop. In this case, it is necessary to replace the faulty part.

If the tests carried out have not determined why the fan is constantly running, then the only possible way out of the situation is to contact a service center.

Full-fledged service stations, as a rule, conduct a full computer check of the cooling system, which can identify the most difficult to detect faults. The failure can be much more global than a normal fuse failure.

If the usual testing steps do not produce any results, then you should not be afraid to contact the service, and even in cases where you consider yourself an experienced technician. Often, modern equipment and a professional approach significantly reduce the troubleshooting time. Whereas conventional methods would take weeks to determine the problem. Therefore, car services have their own advantages.

How to check the sensor

One of the most common reasons why the VAZ-2110 cooling fan does not turn on is a non-working sensor for its activation (for carburetor engines) or a temperature sensor (for injection engines). Let's consider ways to check them for different engines.

In a car with a carburetor engine, you must turn on the ignition and short-circuit the two wires going to the sensor. The fan should turn on. If this does not happen, the problem is definitely not with the sensor.

For injection cars, it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature and disconnect the sensor connector, disconnecting it from the vehicle’s on-board network. In this case, the controller must start the fan in emergency mode. The electronic unit perceives this as a failure in the cooling system and forces the fan drive to operate in constant mode. If the drive starts, the sensor is faulty.

Design of the VAZ-2110 heater

The SAUO replaced manual control of the heater, but otherwise the stove remained structurally the same. As in earlier models, the interior heating system is a housing with a radiator installed inside, connected to the cooling system of the power unit - a heat source, dampers that redirect the air flow to the desired zones, and a fan driven by an electric motor, which creates the air flow. SAUO is a controller that, depending on the set parameters, monitors the temperature in the cabin and regulates the position of the dampers, maintaining the specified mode.

The efficiency of the VAZ-2110 interior heater would be low without the forced creation of air flow, and this task falls on the stove fan.

Checking the cooling fan relay

The most difficult step in troubleshooting a fan is determining the functionality of its relay. It is only relatively possible to establish its serviceability at home. But you also need to know where the cooling fan relay is located.

And it is located in the additional mounting block of the center console. On the lower left side of the front passenger side there is a plastic cover covering the console. To open it, you need to unscrew four screws. There are three relays under the cover. The leftmost one is responsible for turning on the cooling fan. You can check it only by installing a known-good device in its place. After the engine has warmed up to the sensor response temperature, wait for a characteristic click. If the cooling fan relay does not work, you need to check the wiring.

Design Features

The cooling system, as a rule, consists of a large number of components. In a situation where the fan is not working, we will need to be aware of the following components:

Actually an electric fan, which is triggered when the antifreeze heats up to a temperature in the range of 100-105 degrees.
Fan trigger sensor. This unit is configured from the factory so that the device begins to operate under specifically established conditions. The sensor is fixed on the inlet pipe of the cylinder block. The housing is marked with the following code: LS0112.
Fuse F7, located in the mounting block.
Fan relay. The component is located in the cabin under the right dashboard panel.

How to check wiring

Finding a broken conductor in a car's electrical circuit yourself is not at all difficult. It is necessary to check (ring) all wires in the indicated areas with a tester.

For carburetor engines:

from the switch on sensor to the fan;
from the fan to the mounting block (fuse);
from the mounting block to the relay.

For injection engines:

from the main relay to the fan switch relay;
from the switching relay to the fan and controller;
from temperature sensor to controller;
from the fan to the mounting block (fuse).

If a wiring break is detected, it must be restored, as well as the possible cause of the circuit break must be identified and eliminated.

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.

The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
The fan does not turn on.
Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.

On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, to remove the electric fan you need to:

Dismantle the frill.
Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
Remove the back cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.

As for models with a new type of stove, the technology for removing the electric stove fan on such cars is different:

dismantle the “jabot” and the front wall;
remove the air filter;
unscrew the fastening of the filter housing to the stove body and separate them;
disconnect the wiring;
remove the filter housing together with the fan;
dismantle the electric fan.

We recommend: Removing the front door trim of the Lada Granta with your own hands

After removing the electric motor with the impeller, we disassemble it, perform troubleshooting, replace worn elements and put it back together.

Expansion tank cap

The last reason why the VAZ-2110 cooling fan does not work may be a malfunction of the expansion tank cap. The fact is that when the engine is running, a pressure above atmospheric pressure is created in the cooling system, due to which the water, which is part of the coolant, does not boil at 100 ° C. The expansion tank cap valve is designed to maintain the required pressure. If it fails, the pressure in the system will be equal to atmospheric pressure. This will cause the coolant to begin to boil already at 100 degrees. A sensor designed to turn on at a higher temperature will naturally not work.

It is unlikely that you will be able to check the operation of the cover at home, so if during a visual inspection you have doubts about its functionality, it is better to replace it immediately.

Replacing the cooling fan and radiator on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

The engine cooling fan plays a very important role, since it cools the radiator, which in turn circulates coolant through the system and all of this together is a cooling system, but the fan sometimes fails, and the radiator sometimes gets punctured by pebbles, which causes it to start Coolant leaks and it needs to be replaced.

We recommend: Replacing the front engine mount of a VAZ 2114

Note! To replace both of these units, you will need to stock up on: Wrenches, as well as a socket wrench, in addition, you will need a small container (it should be wide) into which you will drain the coolant from the radiator of the cooling system, and you will also need a screwdriver!

Where are the radiator and cooling fan located? Both of these units are located in the front of the car, you won’t be able to see them so easily, because they are large and therefore you can only see parts of them, for example, to see the fan you will only need to look under the TV of the car (The TV is its front part on which the headlights, bumper and other parts are located, the wings no longer belong to it) and you will see a fan thanks to which the car’s engine is cooled (For clarity, the fan is indicated by a red arrow, and the air filter housing has already been removed since it is very in the way review), and in order to see the radiator itself, you can also look under the same TV or look through the radiator grill (The radiator will be visible through it).

When do you need to change the radiator and cooling fan? The radiator, as mentioned earlier, needs to be changed when a hole or holes appear on it, which may appear due to a pebble getting into it (this happens through the radiator grille) or due to strong pressure in the cooling system, which may appear due to a valve malfunction in the cap of the expansion tank or in the radiator cap, if these valves or only one valve fails, the pressure in the system increases, and therefore the increased pressure in the expansion tank (Tank cap valve has failed) will ultimately lead to the fact that the tank is in in the literal sense of the word, it will explode, as for the radiator relief valve, it is still located on the same cap (On the radiator cap we mean) and when this valve fails, the pressure in the radiator begins to increase, and therefore it begins to leak from all the cracks of the radiator The fluid and radiator will eventually (if you drive at high pressure for a very long time) become unusable.

Note! To prevent this from happening, change the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap once every year or two, buy these things after making sure that the valve works, and then in the future you will have fewer problems with this! (For information on how to check the functionality of the expansion tank cap valve, see the video below and always remember this thing: the valve must keep the pressure within 1.1 - 1.5 kgf/cm2 and then the cap can be said to be working properly)

A couple more words about the radiator, in fact, you can check whether there are holes in it or not, they are just usually small and it can be quite difficult to notice them, so in order to find them they use a very cunning method, which is as follows: Take the radiator and all the pipes that go from it and on which the hoses are put on are closed with plugs (you can close them with anything, the most important thing is to make the radiator sealed so that no water gets into it) and then lowered into water (in the bath is easiest), after Once the radiator is in the water, figure out how you can pump air into it, after you come up with an idea, supply air to the radiator at a pressure of 2 kgf/cm2 (You can pump this pressure into the radiator with a compressor, or you can try with a regular pump) and after that you will immediately you will see whether there are holes in the radiator or not (If there are, then air bubbles will come out from there), for clarity, how to check the radiator for serviceability, look at the video clip located just below:

Note! If the holes are small, then buying a new radiator does not make any sense, because small holes can be closed, for example, using a special substance that is sold in a car shop and which will need to be moved with coolant, this substance will clog into the hole and thereby prevent the penetration of liquid through it, also a not very large hole in the radiator can be removed by soldering or welding, but we do not recommend that you remove large holes, so in this case it is better to go to an auto store and buy a new radiator!

Checking at home

Sometimes the electric motor turns on too late, when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch on sensor. You can check the device’s response temperature at home using a multimeter and thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much force when tightening.

The switching temperature is engraved on the end; it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

While heating the water and monitoring the readings of the multimeter, we use a thermometer to record the moment it turns on, and when it cools down, the temperature it turns off. Standardly, these are 92 and 87 degrees; with significant deviations, late operation is especially critical, the device requires replacement.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

Nivovsky injection radiator 21214-1300024-43 (placed in front of the radiator)

On the VAZ 2110, any of the options can be installed with minimal modifications to the fasteners on site. When electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Nivovsky suction radiator (placed after the radiator)

Monitor the engine temperature. If you notice overheating too late, then in addition to boiling of the antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. If there are defects in the operation of the cooling system fan of the VAZ 2110, the faults can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, and switch sensor.

Source

Switch-on temperature

In order for the machine to be constantly in working condition, it is necessary to maintain normal operating temperature parameters. There is an arrow on the dashboard that shows only indicative values. If you have an injection engine with an electronic control system, the values will be more accurate.

In carburetor-type engines, the fan starts working at a temperature of 100 degrees .
In an injection engine, the temperature sensor is located in the cylinder block, so its startup occurs somewhat differently. 2 temperature sensors next to the thermostat . The first has only one wire, the second has two. It is the latter that is working and gives a signal to the engine ECU, which in turn turns on the power to the fan motor network.

Source

Design and principle of operation

The VAZ 2110 fan sensor, both 8 and 16 valves, consists of a sealed housing, inside of which there is a bimetallic plate and electrical contacts. A feature of the working element is the possibility of significant physical expansion when heated. When the temperature changes significantly upward, the plate expands and the thermal relay contacts close.

On the outside of the housing, a thread is cut, which is necessary for reliable fixation of the sensor in the cooling system of the internal combustion engine. On the opposite side of the sensor, terminals are installed that are necessary for connecting the contact wires.

Fuse

The elementary rules of physics state that the water contained in the coolant boils at a temperature of 100 degrees.

If the fuse valve, which is located on the expansion tank, fails, and the pressure inside the tank increases, then the liquid will boil, but the fan will not start working. The cooling element will not turn on even if the electrical circuit is working properly. This all happens because the component switching sensor on the injection VAZ-2110 has a startup temperature of more than 100 degrees.

To solve the problem with the fuse, you will need to replace the cap of the expansion tank. The new part must correspond to the possible pressure inside the system and operate in a situation where the fluid temperature reaches 105 degrees. This will result in the fan blades turning on.