Engine overheating is an undesirable situation for any car model. Problems with cooling on the VAZ 2114 must be resolved promptly, because An increase in temperature above normal can lead to a breakdown of the gasket under the block head, and then to the appearance of cracks in the block itself. There are several reasons for a sharp increase in engine temperature, but one of them is the failure of the cooling fan. To do the repair yourself, you need to understand what the VAZ 2114 cooling fan diagram (injector) looks like.
Fan connection diagram for VAZ 21099 injector
Connection diagram Figure 2 (Scheme for switching on the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 cars with a mounting block type 17.3722)
Figure 3 (Scheme of switching on the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 cars with mounting block type 2114-3722010-60)
I’ll add examples of connecting some buttons:
Sometimes the reason that a VAZ 21099 car noticeably overheats lies in the incorrect operation of the fan, for example, if the fan does not turn on. In such a situation, the motorist should first pay attention to the electrical circuit for turning on the engine cooling fan. Check its condition, it is likely that the problem lies there. If this is the case, then the driver can cope with a similar problem on his own. You don't even have to visit a service center. However, domestic cars have always been relatively easy to use and repair.
When starting repair work of this type, you should immediately pay attention to which engine is installed on the vehicle. The action plan to fix the problem with the cooling system fan will directly depend on this factor.
The principle of turning on the cooling fan
Let's take the VAZ 2108 and 21083 engines as an example: on these car models, the electric fan is turned on thanks to a special pre-installed sensor, which is located on the right side of the cooling radiator. Thus, the fan comes into action when its contacts close, that is, at a temperature of 99°C.
By the way, on cars that came off the assembly line before 1998, this sensor corrects the operation of the fan only through a special relay 113.3747, which is located in the mounting block.
On injection engines, for example, on the engine of a VAZ 2111 car, the situation is somewhat different: on such engines, the cooling system fan is also controlled via a relay, but exclusively by a signal from the control unit.
Detecting a malfunction of turning on the fan on the engines of VAZ 2108 and VAZ 21083 cars
From the above, it becomes clear that the principle of removing a fan fault on cars with an injection and carburetor type engine will be very different.
To remove a malfunction on a carburetor engine, you will first have to carefully check the fuses in the mounting block. However, if the fuse on a carburetor engine has burned out, it is easy to notice even with the naked eye.
In domestic cars manufactured before 1998, first of all you need to check the fan switch relay. It is quite possible that the check will reveal the following faults: either there is electrical contact between terminals “c” and “b”, or there is no contact between terminals “c” and “d”. In both cases, the relay must be replaced.
Another reason for problems with the fan turning on may be a breakdown of the sensor installed in the vehicle radiator. There is also a possibility that the fan itself has failed. To check the functionality of the sensor, you just need to remove the contacts from the sensor and try to close them together. If after this the electric fan turned on, then the problem was in the sensor. If not, then most likely there is a problem with the fan motor.
Detection on the engine of a VAZ 2111 car
If overheating is noticed on an injection engine, then first of all it is necessary to check the integrity of the fuse that protects the electric fan circuit. After this, be sure to check the auxiliary relay, which is usually located in the car interior under the glove compartment on the passenger side. Also be sure to check if the fan motor operates in forced mode.
The fan on the VAZ 2111 engine may not turn on also because the sensor located on the engine exhaust pipe is faulty. However, it is almost impossible to check the serviceability of the sensor on an injection engine yourself. In this case, service computer diagnostics is necessary.
Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors
All the main electrical circuits and modifications for connecting the liquid cooling fan (CO) in VAZ cars of various models are provided. What is the essence of VO’s work? An electric motor with an impeller on a shaft is installed inside a rectangular metal frame, with which it is attached to the back of the radiator. When voltage (12 V) is applied to the contacts of the drive, it begins to work, rotating the blades and creating a directed stream of air, which, in fact, cools the antifreeze or antifreeze.
If the cooling fan does not work, do not rush to contact a car service. You can determine the cause of the malfunction yourself. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to have special skills for this - just study the reference material from 2shemi.ru and follow the instructions for checking/replacing it.
If the cooling fan does not work
To drive the fan, a DC electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets ME-272 or similar is installed. Technical data of the electric fan and fan switch sensor:
- Rated rotation speed of the electric motor shaft with impeller, 2500 – 2800 rpm.
- Electric motor current consumption, 14 A
- Sensor contact closure temperature, 82±2 degrees.
- Sensor contact opening temperature, 87±2 degrees.
The cooling system fan may not turn on due to:
- electric drive malfunctions;
- blown fuse;
- faulty thermostat;
- a failed thermal sensor for turning on the cooler;
- faulty VO relay;
- broken electrical wiring;
- faulty expansion tank plug.
To check the VAZ fan electric motor itself, we apply 12 V voltage from the battery to its terminals - a working motor will work. If the problem is with the fan, you can try to repair it. The problem is usually the brushes or bearings. But it happens that the electric motor fails due to a short circuit or break in the windings. In such cases, it is better to replace the entire drive.
The BO fuse is located in the mounting block of the car's engine compartment and is designated F7 (20 A). The test is carried out using a car tester turned on in probe mode.
- In a car with a carburetor engine, you need to check the sensor - turn on the ignition and short-circuit the two wires going to the sensor. The fan should turn on. If this does not happen, the problem is definitely not with the sensor.
- For injection cars, it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature and disconnect the sensor connector, disconnecting it from the vehicle’s on-board network. In this case, the controller must start the fan in emergency mode. The electronic unit perceives this as a failure in the cooling system and forces the fan drive to operate in constant mode. If the drive starts, the sensor is faulty.
Cooling system design features
Depending on the design features, the fan can be turned on in 3 ways:
- using a power sensor for activation of the VSO. This sensor is also called a fan temperature relay, since the power contacts of the electric motor pass directly through the sensor. With this scheme, the load on the thermal relay increases significantly, which reduces its service life;
- using the fan switch sensor, but now closing the contacts in the temperature switch triggers the relay, through which the power contacts of the cooling fan are connected. This connection method is much more reliable than the previous option;
- using an electronic engine control unit. The ECU, focusing on the coolant temperature sensor installed in the engine cooling radiator, supplies power to the VCO through a relay. A resistive temperature sensor is used as a meter. It is this switching circuit that is used on the vast majority of modern cars. On cars equipped with air conditioning, one of the electric fans will be controlled by the comfort unit. This is necessary for forced cooling of the condenser when the interior air conditioning system is activated.
Operating modes
When understanding the operating principle and connection diagram of a radiator fan, you should remember that electric motors often have two speed modes. This is implemented in 2 ways:
- by adding a resistor to the circuit, which increases the resistance and, as a result, reduces the current. The design uses a two-contact sensor, which, depending on the temperature, powers the electric motor directly or through resistors;
- a combination of parallel and series connection. The circuit is used on a car with two fans. They can be connected in series, in which case, according to Ohm's law, they will operate from 6 V, or in series, when 12 V is supplied to each of the VSOs. The modes correspond to low and high speed rotation of the propeller.
Scheme options
Schematic diagram of VSO connection on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 (until 1998).
As we can see, the sensor controls the fan relay, which is located in the fuse box. When a certain temperature is reached, the contacts of the temperature switch close, which leads to the flow of current in the electric motor circuit.
Above is a diagram for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars, but after 1998. As we can see, the power sensor now functions as a relay.
Let's consider a circuit using a resistor to implement two propeller rotation speeds using the VW Passat as an example. The two-position fan power sensor S23, depending on the coolant temperature, closes the contacts directly or through an additional resistance.
DIY connection
Some drivers, warning the engine against overheating due to improper operation of the radiator fan power supply thermal relay, make an external button to force the electric motor to turn on. To do this, it is enough to connect a fixed button in parallel to the control output of the relay coming from the sensor, which, when pressed, will close the contact to ground, thereby provoking the operation of the relay. If the car's design does not provide a fan relay, you will have to install it yourself to force cool the radiator.
Under no circumstances should you connect the electric motor directly through the button in the cabin! We also do not recommend connecting the circuit so that after turning on the ignition the electric fan constantly rotates, as this significantly reduces its service life.
To connect, you only need to understand the operating principle of a 4-pin relay and minimal knowledge in installing additional equipment. Be sure to include a fuse of the correct rating in the power circuit and place it as close to the power source as possible (read more about how to choose the correct fuse rating).
If desired, you can replace the single-position sensor with a two-position one, which, paired with a selected resistor, will allow you to realize a low speed of operation of the VSO. If you have a sufficient level of knowledge in electrical engineering, then you can build a PWM controller to adjust the speed of rotation of the propeller. Controlling the electric fan using a PWM signal will allow you to smoothly regulate and arbitrarily select the rotation speed depending on the temperature load on the engine. There is enough material on the Internet on how to make a PWM controller with your own hands.
Fan
If the problem lies in the injector or carburetor cooling fan, then you will have to remove it. It is quite possible to repair the unit by replacing the electric motor or impeller.
Diagram with casing, radiator, fan and impeller
To remove the valve, perform the following operations:
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
- Disconnect the wire terminals. One of them is mounted on the fan casing;
- Take a wrench and unscrew a couple of connecting bolts. They fix the vent casing on the left tank;
- Next, unscrew another lower nut holding the device casing;
- Now you will need a socket extension to unscrew the right nut on top that secures the vent housing to the radiator;
- All that remains is to unscrew the fan pressure plate. To do this, remove the pair of left nuts;
- Remove the pressure plate by hand;
- Now remove the fan along with the casing.
Why doesn't the electric fan work?
There are not many reasons:
- The motor winding burned out.
- The thermal switch has failed.
- Destruction of electrical wiring.
So, what to do if the fan suddenly stops turning on? First of all, open the heater tap, this will increase the circulation of coolant. Don't forget to turn on the heater radiator fan to help it cool faster.
When the temperature begins to drop slightly, turn off the engine. You open the hood and you see a not very pleasant picture - the antifreeze is gone, half of the compartment is wet. It is necessary to add fluid to the expansion tank. If this happens in the summer, then you can add water (the main thing is to change it to antifreeze before winter).
Check the operation of the electric motor - disconnect the connection block and directly supply power from the battery to it. Is the propeller spinning? This means that everything is fine with the winding, put the block in place. On later modifications, only the sensor switch is responsible for turning on the VAZ 2109 fan.
To check it, you need to remove two wires from it and connect them. If the rotor begins to rotate, then the fault lies in the sensor. The way out of this situation is to continue moving by connecting these two wires. There is no need to isolate them, since the activation of the VAZ 2109 fan is controlled by ground (if a bare wire gets caught on a part of the body, then it’s okay).
And the third reason is broken wires. There are two wires to the VAZ 2109 fan sensor: directly from the fan and ground (body). If no problems have arisen before, then try to make a reliable ground, since by default in nines the negative wire from the fan sensor goes towards the fuse box and is lost there.
Find a place near the radiator where you can connect the negative power cable. These are all the malfunctions that may await you. Now it’s worth talking about the useful button for forced airflow.
https://youtu.be/https://youtu.be/wdpTUvxVWFU
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Replacing DVV
To install a new EV switch on sensor, proceed as follows.
- The car is driven into a pit.
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Unscrew the cap of the expansion tank.
- Place some clean container under the engine.
- After unscrewing the bolt from the engine block, drain the antifreeze into a container.
- Remove the cable plug from the DVV terminals.
- Unscrew the sensor using a 19-mm open-end or socket wrench.
- A new device is installed in its place.
- The EV cable block is secured to the terminals of the new sensor.
- After removing the cap, antifreeze is poured into the radiator neck until the antifreeze level in the expansion tank is between o and “max”.
- Start the engine and monitor the coolant temperature dial indicator. When the arrow approaches the red zone, the fan should turn on.
At the first overheating of the VAZ-2109 engine, you must stop driving and let the engine cool. You need to slowly drive home, watching the coolant temperature gauge along the way. If the DVV breaks down, remove the fan motor cable from the sensor and short-circuit its wires directly. This way, you can return to the garage without letting the antifreeze boil.
Search on the site
Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the air intake mount and remove it. This is exactly the connection option on my Gazelle.
Therefore, if you have a need for any other option not described below, write to me at trs mail.
The fan can be connected in several ways: for example, through the ignition switch or through the coolant temperature sensor.
When using two similar fans, this scheme does not provide any gain in cooling efficiency. Scheme for switching on the cooling fan of an injection engine.
Read additionally: Which specialists conduct energy audits?
AUTO ELECTRICIAN
The circuit for switching on the cooling fan of a VAZ with an injection engine is powered by an electronic engine control controller. And next to it hangs a blue wire with a flat chip, on which nothing is ringing either. I have a suspicion that someone before me messed around with the wiring. The presence of several temperature control channels provides quite wide possibilities for designing a cooling system.
Also a simple circuit on one relay. Disconnect the wire block on the fan connector. So we are content with what we have.
Post navigation
Let's consider not only the operating principle, but also the connection option with the possibility of forced activation of the VCO cooling system fan. If you have an old-style radiator, or a Luzarovsky universal one, then you do not need to cut the pipe. Scheme for switching on the cooling fan of an injection engine. It fits the thread, but it has a different feature.
Scheme 1. Despite the importance of such a device, it has a fairly simple design and usually consists of three main elements: the impeller usually has four blades, but there may be more, a casing and a fan drive. However, I note that in hot weather they did not turn off at all. How to wire a VAZ 2109 cooling fan. The simplest diagram.
Methods for checking DTOZH
How to check the TOZ index on your own? To do this, you can use one of several methods; diagnostics are performed using a multimeter.
- First, the negative probe of the tester should be connected to the cylinder head, and then activate the ignition by turning the key in the lock.
- Then, using a multimeter, you need to determine exactly what voltage appears at the output.
- If the controller is working, then the value of this parameter should be at least 12 volts, of course, if the battery is fully charged. If the diagnostics showed that the obtained values were lower, then you need to do repairs or change the regulator (the author of the video about diagnostics is the Mechanical Technician channel).
Another check option:
- To implement it, you will need to configure the tester in voltmeter operating mode. The measurement procedure should be carried out in the operating range from 100 Ohm to 10 kOhm. In addition, for diagnosis you will need a thermometer, and it is important that it can determine a temperature value of more than 100 degrees. The controller itself is removed from its seat and lowered into a reservoir with refrigerant, which you will heat. This point must be taken into account when choosing a container for coolant.
- Now you will need to warm up the refrigerant in the system. When the temperature value increases, you need to carefully monitor the values produced by the tester and the thermometer placed in the container.
- Using a tester, you will need to check the fluid resistance level at different temperatures. The readings obtained as a result of the diagnosis must be compared with the normalized ones, which are indicated in the table.
CO elements
The cooling system used on the VAZ 2109 operates at low pressure. After studying the components, you will learn about their functions and features.
Element
Peculiarities
It ensures efficient, stable operation of the system. The pump is used to pump cooling liquid, which facilitates its movement along a small or large circuit. The pump consists of a housing, an axle with a pulley located on it connecting to the timing belt, and a plastic impeller. The latter allows the coolant to move. A bearing lubricated with antifreeze is installed between the axle and the housing. Because of this, the presence of water in the system is unacceptable. Otherwise the bearing will collapse
Plays an important role, although in practice the CO can do without it. The system works in such a way that the engine first warms up to operating temperature (about 90 degrees Celsius), after which it is necessary to further cool the liquid. First, the coolant moves along a small circuit - through the jacket into the stove radiator, and then the excess is returned to the expansion tank. But when the operating temperature is reached, the thermostat begins to move the coolant flow into the radiator. A thermostat can be called a mechanical valve that automates the operation of the CO. Hot liquid acting on the bimetallic plate of the thermostat deforms it, which is why the coolant supply valve to the radiator can open or close
The SO VAZ 2109 has a pair of radiators - a stove and a main one. Their design is the same regardless of whether you have a carburetor or an injector. At the same time, there is a noticeable difference between the main and stove radiators. The main one is larger in size, they perform different functions, plus the main one has holes for a sensor that turns off the fan. If the stove radiator can be connected to operation at any time by pressing a button, then the main radiator operates in automatic mode when certain operating parameters of the CO are achieved
Expansion tank with plug
A constant pressure is maintained inside the CO, which ensures efficient coolant circulation. On the VAZ 2109, the system is designed so that at high pressure the liquid does not boil when it reaches 100 degrees, but at higher parameters. This increases engine reliability. Pressure support is provided by an expansion tank with a cap and a pair of mechanical valves - inlet and outlet. The inlet valve is activated if the pressure drops to 0.13 atm. The second one comes into operation at the moment when the pressure is above 1.3 Atm.
Do not underestimate the role of pipes and clamps in the CO, since it is through them that the coolant is supplied to the required points. When replacing, under no circumstances use cuttings from other pipes that do not correspond to the parameters used previously. Plus, if at least one pipe is damaged, everything will have to be replaced as a set, and not separately
Making a 2-speed cooling fan for a VAZ
This solution allows you to get rid of frequent switching on of the cooling fan , there are no voltage drops (although I didn’t have any due to a good generator and an automatic LV at 14.5V), and the idle speed does not drop when the fan is turned on. And there is no vibration in the body with the original 4-blade fan. The normal operation of the cooling fan remained in place.
The cooling fan now turns on at half power at a temperature of 92 degrees, and the maximum speed will be when it reaches 96 degrees.
This is what happened:
For this we needed the following components:
1…
Tee for a cooling sensor from a gazelle, costing 150 rubles.
Sawed by a Bulgarian's wife and rolled with a hammer and filed. 2... DTOZH from the classics 92/87 degrees. 100 rubles. 3... 2 clamps for the pipe. What size - I don't know. Just fit this pipe and that’s it... 4... 4-pin relay for 70 A + connector. Cost 160 rubles with chip. 5... 30 A remote fuse. I installed a 30 pin relay in the power circuit. 6... Crimping chips + crimping (can be done with narrow pliers) and heat shrinking. 7... Miscellaneous wires 4 meters. 8... Mom/Dad chips for the fan, because I didn’t want to cut the insulation. The “original” fan chip is disconnected, our purchased one is connected to each other, the positive contact is isolated, and the negative contact is used to connect the signal from the relay to it. 9... Resistance from a classic stove is 1.5 ohms.
You can put a resistance of 2-2.5 Ohms, but I couldn’t find the resistance from the UAZ stove in my city. So we are content with what we have. The fan is supplied with 6.6 V according to the tester. The lower radiator pipe is cut if your radiator is a new model without a plug for the DTOZH. Place the tee so that the sensor contacts are at 90 degrees, and not as in my photo (I almost missed this point, the stove body does not sit properly). But this will be corrected when replacing the coolant. If you have an old-style radiator, or a Luzarovsky universal one, then you do not need to cut the pipe. These radiators have a plug for the DTOZH.
87…
we twist the contact or solder it to the black wire of the fan (focus on the wires from the fan itself, and not on the central wiring, because the colors may differ. Another option is to call with a multitester).
“Plus” is supplied to the fan permanently, but it is controlled by a mass signal (it may differ depending on the year of manufacture judging by the comments). 86...
the contact can be connected directly to the “positive” terminal of the battery.
The relay winding does not draw voltage. 85...
we connect the relay contact into the gap through the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH).
The sensor in our case acts as an automatic button. 30...
we connect the contact directly to the negative terminal of the battery through a fuse, then we connect a resistance resistor and then to the relay.
The resistance resistor itself was pulled to the cooling fan housing with a regular clamp. Mount the resistor in the area of the air flow from the fan to cool it. It heats up well during operation.
In general, everything... During the entire evening of active driving and traffic jams, the fan never turned on fully. Everything is automatic, there are no surges or drops in rpm at idle. I like. The fan continues to run briefly even after the ignition is turned off.
You can also add a button to force the fan into this circuit without any problems - be sure to use a relay, the control plus of the relay coil (pin 85 for example) is taken from the main relay from the passenger compartment, the control minus (pin 86) through the fan switch button, on pins 30 and 87 connect the DTOZh contacts. All this is necessary so that the fan turns off when the ignition is turned off and eliminates the possibility of constant operation of the fan if the driver forgets. Although IMHO this button is superfluous with this solution.
Well, by the way, this scheme can also be used for carb cars. You just need a sensor, one “chisel” for the radiator, and the second “classic” for the tee (although it can be done the other way around). Well, that is if you can’t find a 2-mode fan switch sensor from a foreign company.
P/S..
We installed the same for a friend on a VAZ 2115, 2006. — according to the diagram, it was necessary to change the polarity of the voltage supply to the fan. It is controlled not by “minus”, but by “plus”.
Description of DTOZH and DVV
Where is the coolant temperature and fan activation sensor located in 2109 with an injector or carburetor engine, what should I do if the device does not work? First, let's look at the basic questions regarding the purpose, device and principle of operation.
Purpose and functions
The main purpose of the DVV is to activate and deactivate the ventilation device on the engine radiator in order to cool the power unit. The device turns the fan on and off based on the temperature of the liquid in the cooling system. On injection machines, this is DTOZH; turning the fan on and off is controlled by the brain according to the readings of this sensor.
As for the TOZh controller in the VAZ 21093, this device is intended to display readings about the antifreeze temperature on the car’s dashboard in the cabin. With its help, the driver can find out about possible overheating of the power unit.
Location
As for the location, in models 2108, 2109 and 21099 the DTOZH is located between the engine cylinder head and the thermostat, in particular, on the intake hose. The DVV is installed in the threaded hole of the expansion tank with coolant. If you look in the direction of travel of the car, the refrigerant container is installed on the right.
Principle of operation
First, let's look at the operating principle of the antifreeze temperature controller. This device is a thermistor-resistor that operates with a negative coefficient. The amount of resistance in this case can be measured as a result of a decrease or increase in the temperature range. When the car engine heats up, the resistance on the device decreases, and when the power unit cools down, this value increases. For example, when the engine is fully warmed up, the resistance value on the device is 180 Ohms, and at low negative temperatures (-40 degrees) this figure will increase to 100,700 Ohms.
When the driver activates the ignition by turning the key in the lock, the control module (ECU) begins to supply voltage to the controller using a resistor. The DTOZH itself, as mentioned above, is a thermistor; accordingly, the incoming voltage will change in accordance with the temperature of the liquid. When this value decreases, the control module analyzes this, according to which the required volume of fuel for injection into the cylinders is determined. As the car engine warms up, the volume of fuel used for injection will drop.
As for the DVV, it is installed in the negative cable gap, which is connected to the ventilator activation relay in the fuse box. When the temperature value increases to 99 degrees, a short circuit occurs at the controller contacts due to the bimetallic plate. As a result, the current through the device flows to a relay located in the block, from where it is supplied to the electric motor of the device on the fan, ultimately activating the latter (author of the video channel AndRamons).
In “Nines” produced after 1998 and equipped with safety blocks from the VAZ 2114, there is no relay in this section of the circuit. Therefore, the regulator itself is also mounted in the gap of the negative cable, but only the one that is connected directly to the fan. In this case, the closure occurs at a similar temperature. If the antifreeze cools, the plate opens the contacts, causing the electric motor to turn off.
Improved start-up and operation of the VAZ 2110 radiator fan
Since the Engine Cooling System Fan (ECF) on the VAZ 2110 has only one operating speed , many people do not like the abrupt behavior of the coolant arrow on the dashboard. Yes, and I would like to somehow smooth out the sudden switching on of the radiator fan