What to do if the VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work

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Many owners of the domestic "ten" complain that their VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work. The problem is quite common, but to fix it it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of specialists, or to pay a lot of money to car service technicians for finding and eliminating the cause of the problem.

All this can be done with your own hands. Today we will tell you exactly how this is done.

We identify the cause of the breakdown

First, you need to figure out the reason why the stove fan is not working. There may be several of them.

1. A faulty fuse is the most common, simple and most common reason that the motor does not turn. On the one hand, replacing a fuse is not a big and difficult problem, which can be easily handled even by a beginner. But on the other hand, it will be necessary to find the reason why the fuse has become unusable. And to do this, you will need to examine the electrical circuit that ensures the normal operation of the heating system for the presence of a short circuit. Since we are talking about fuses, it would be useful to know that the operation of the stove on the VAZ-2110 depends on fuse F7 with a current strength of 30 amperes. Also, the operation of this fuse determines the illumination of the glove compartment, the functioning of the cigarette lighter, the electric motor from the headlight washer and the heated rear window. If a short circuit is not found in the electrical circuit of the heating system, then the cause will need to be looked for throughout the wiring.
2. Problems with the contacts that are located inside the mounting block are a common reason for the VAZ heater motor not working. To identify this problem, you can move the block with the attached harnesses while the car is running. If the VAZ-2110 heater fan starts working, then it is necessary to remove the block and clean the contacts.

A problem with the contacts inside the mounting block is a common reason for a non-working fan.

1. A flooded relay may also be one of the reasons why the heater fan does not work. Diagnosing this problem is very simple: the fan will turn on only after the car has warmed up well. In this case, you will need to replace the relay, which is hidden behind the dashboard.
2. The heater electric motor can only operate when the third speed is activated. This situation is explained by the nature of the current supply to the fan: at speeds 1 and 2 this process is implemented through a resistor, and at speed 3 - directly. Consequently, if the heating does not work at the first two speeds, then the reason lies precisely in the resistor, which must be replaced.
3. The malfunction of the switch can be identified as follows: after removing the center console, start the car, take a large 12-volt light bulb with soldered wires, connect the negative wire from it to the body and touch the second wire to contacts 1, 2 and 3 on the additional resistor. When the light comes on, it indicates that the switch is working properly. But if the light bulb does not light up, then you will need to connect the wire from the light bulb to the positive terminal on the switch. If there is no light on the light bulb, you can talk about an open circuit or a faulty fuse.

A broken fan motor could also be the cause.

1. A faulty fan motor is the final cause that can result in a fan not working. Here we can consider three main reasons, the elimination of which may require replacing the motor, cleaning the contacts and replacing the brushes.

Causes of malfunction

As a rule, there are many reasons for such a malfunction, these include:

• clogging with slag from the stove radiator;
• stove motor failure.

If the stove motor is not functioning, or some of its speeds are not working properly, then it is first recommended to check the resistor, which in other words can be called the stove rheostat. This element is responsible for the speed of the fan. You can purchase such a part in a specialized store that sells auto parts. As for replacement, this can be done with the help of a specialist or on your own, which is not so difficult even for an inexperienced specialist.

Note! In the case of repairing or replacing the heater radiator, it is recommended to contact a car service center, since it is difficult to remove the radiator yourself. To replace the stove motor, you will need minimal knowledge and detailed instructions.

There are heater malfunctions that can be easily fixed by any car enthusiast. For example, a situation may occur when cold air blows through the side deflectors and the windshield heating duct of the heating system, while a hot air flow comes from the lower and central air ducts. Most likely, the reason will be the unsatisfactory operation of the heater damper, which is designed to cut off cold air. In some cases, it prevents the normal passage of cold air. Such faults are most easily identified during the cold season.

When bending the damper drive rod, special care must be taken so as not to damage the plastic parts. Please note that plastic becomes more fragile in winter.

Of course, a non-functioning stove causes many problems in winter.

If this is not so important in the summer, then in the winter the windows will fog up. You can figure out what the reason is by disassembling the heating system of the car.

Design of the VAZ-2110 heater

The SAUO replaced manual control of the heater, but otherwise the stove remained structurally the same. As in earlier models, the interior heating system is a housing with a radiator installed inside, connected to the cooling system of the power unit - a heat source, dampers that redirect the air flow to the desired zones, and a fan driven by an electric motor, which creates the air flow. SAUO is a controller that, depending on the set parameters, monitors the temperature in the cabin and regulates the position of the dampers, maintaining the specified mode.

The efficiency of the VAZ-2110 interior heater would be low without the forced creation of air flow, and this task falls on the stove fan.

Electrical circuit malfunctions

If everything is fine with the tank cap and there are no problems with pressure, then the causes of the radiator cooling malfunction should be sought in its electrical circuit.

1. The search begins with checking the functionality of the fuse marked F7. To do this, you have to get to the mounting block. Check the quality of the contacts and the presence of traces of oxidation. If everything is good here, we move on. If the contacts are broken, simply clean them, or simply change the fuse. This is a small financial cost.
2. The next place to check will be the VAZ 2110 fan switch sensor. You do not have to go to a specialized service station to check the efficiency of the sensor. This is done in a garage: Warm up the engine of your car to above 100 degrees Celsius;
3. Turn off the engine, then start the engine again;
4. Lift the hood and remove the terminal from the VAZ 2110 fan sensor;
5. If after removing the element the fan begins to spin, then the unit is working properly, but there are problems with the sensor;
6. When on a VAZ 2110 the cooling system fan does not turn on after disconnecting the terminal, the situation is the opposite - the fan does not work, but the sensor is in good condition.

Design Features

The cooling system, as a rule, consists of a large number of components. In a situation where the fan is not working, we will need to be aware of the following components:

1. Actually an electric fan, which is triggered when the antifreeze heats up to a temperature in the range of 100-105 degrees.
2. Fan trigger sensor. This unit is configured from the factory so that the device begins to operate under specifically established conditions. The sensor is fixed on the inlet pipe of the cylinder block. The housing is marked with the following code: LS0112.
3. Fuse F7, located in the mounting block.
4. Fan relay. The component is located in the cabin under the right dashboard panel.

If the fan itself on your car does not work, then carefully check all of the above components of the cooling system. However, there are times when one situation will not be related to the breakdown in question.

Replacing the cooling fan and radiator on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

The engine cooling fan plays a very important role, since it cools the radiator, which in turn circulates coolant through the system and all of this together is a cooling system, but the fan sometimes fails, and the radiator sometimes gets punctured by pebbles, which causes it to start Coolant leaks and it needs to be replaced.

We recommend: Replacing the front engine mount of a VAZ 2114

Note! To replace both of these units, you will need to stock up on: Wrenches, as well as a socket wrench, in addition, you will need a small container (it should be wide) into which you will drain the coolant from the radiator of the cooling system, and you will also need a screwdriver!

Where are the radiator and cooling fan located? Both of these units are located in the front of the car, you won’t be able to see them so easily, because they are large and therefore you can only see parts of them, for example, to see the fan you will only need to look under the TV of the car (The TV is its front part on which the headlights, bumper and other parts are located, the wings no longer belong to it) and you will see a fan thanks to which the car’s engine is cooled (For clarity, the fan is indicated by a red arrow, and the air filter housing has already been removed since it is very in the way review), and in order to see the radiator itself, you can also look under the same TV or look through the radiator grill (The radiator will be visible through it).

When do you need to change the radiator and cooling fan? The radiator, as mentioned earlier, needs to be changed when a hole or holes appear on it, which may appear due to a pebble getting into it (this happens through the radiator grille) or due to strong pressure in the cooling system, which may appear due to a valve malfunction in the cap of the expansion tank or in the radiator cap, if these valves or only one valve fails, the pressure in the system increases, and therefore the increased pressure in the expansion tank (Tank cap valve has failed) will ultimately lead to the fact that the tank is in in the literal sense of the word, it will explode, as for the radiator relief valve, it is still located on the same cap (On the radiator cap we mean) and when this valve fails, the pressure in the radiator begins to increase, and therefore it begins to leak from all the cracks of the radiator The fluid and radiator will eventually (if you drive at high pressure for a very long time) become unusable.

Note! To prevent this from happening, change the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap once every year or two, buy these things after making sure that the valve works, and then in the future you will have fewer problems with this! (For information on how to check the functionality of the expansion tank cap valve, see the video below and always remember this thing: the valve must keep the pressure within 1.1 - 1.5 kgf/cm2 and then the cap can be said to be working properly)

A couple more words about the radiator, in fact, you can check whether there are holes in it or not, they are just usually small and it can be quite difficult to notice them, so in order to find them they use a very cunning method, which is as follows: Take the radiator and all the pipes that go from it and on which the hoses are put on are closed with plugs (you can close them with anything, the most important thing is to make the radiator sealed so that no water gets into it) and then lowered into water (in the bath is easiest), after Once the radiator is in the water, figure out how you can pump air into it, after you come up with an idea, supply air to the radiator at a pressure of 2 kgf/cm2 (You can pump this pressure into the radiator with a compressor, or you can try with a regular pump) and after that you will immediately you will see whether there are holes in the radiator or not (If there are, then air bubbles will come out from there), for clarity, how to check the radiator for serviceability, look at the video clip located just below:

Note! If the holes are small, then buying a new radiator does not make any sense, because small holes can be closed, for example, using a special substance that is sold in a car shop and which will need to be moved with coolant, this substance will clog into the hole and thereby prevent the penetration of liquid through it, also a not very large hole in the radiator can be removed by soldering or welding, but we do not recommend that you remove large holes, so in this case it is better to go to an auto store and buy a new radiator!

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Let's look at these reasons in order, starting with the simplest:

1. The bolt that attaches the plastic fan itself to the motor pulley was simply unscrewed.
2. The radiator is simply not inserted into its socket and the radiator lies on the suspension cross member.
3. Part of the fan impeller blade broke off and as a result there was an imbalance. (replacing the fan impeller)
4. Dirt on the impeller and, as a result, imbalance. (needs to be cleaned, washed)
5. The cushions are compressed and do not hold the engine properly and there is vibration. (Change pillows, make rubber gaskets)
6. The fan is making a loud noise and there is no lubrication. (lubricate the electric motor)
7. Broken bearing. Usually due to an imbalance in the impeller, which has been vibrating for quite a long time. (replace bearing)

How to balance a fan impeller? Option 1: We wind the wire around the valve blades and see where the imbalance is stronger and gradually level it to conditional silence. Option 2: You need to insert an axis (for example, a drill) that exactly matches the diameter into the hole, place the impeller with its axis on 2 horizontal supports (the impeller between the supports), for example on 2 identical tables with space between them. If there is an imbalance and the impeller constantly strives to occupy a certain position in space, this can be eliminated by turning the blades or gluing a weight inside the cylindrical base of the impeller.

Fan connection diagram in carburetor and injection engines

The control of forced radiator airflow in carburetor and injection engines of the VAZ-2110 is significantly different. Firstly, the fan switch located on the radiator housing is responsible for everything. It is set to a certain coolant temperature. Usually it is 105-107 o C. The fan does not work, the stove on the VAZ does not heat, why does the “stove” of the VAZ-2110-2112 not heat. When the coolant heats up to this temperature, the sensor is triggered, sending a signal to the fan relay. It closes the electrical circuit, driving the electric motor.

Turning on the cooling fan of a VAZ-2110 with an injection engine occurs somewhat differently. In engines equipped with an electronic control unit, there is no sensor on the radiator. Heater fan, (Ford Mondeo) if the fan does not work at all speeds. Its place was taken by a temperature sensor located on the thermostat pipe. When the coolant heats up to a temperature of 105-107 o C, it sends a signal directly to the controller, which makes the decision to turn on the fan. It transmits an electrical impulse to a relay, which turns on the electric drive.

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Fan replacement

If the problem still lies in the fan itself, then it would be best to replace it with a new one. The stove fan can, of course, be repaired, but this may involve, for example, replacing the brushes. It simply doesn’t make sense to carry out more comprehensive repairs, since you can’t hope for long-term service for such a part. Replacing a VAZ-2110 stove fan requires selecting a new part. There are two options here: find an old-style part or buy a new spare part. The second option is more acceptable and accessible.

VAZ stove fan

The replacement process is not as complicated as it might seem. It is enough to be able to work with standard tools, have free time and have the desire to tinker with your own machine. To replace a faulty fan, you must follow the following work plan:

1. Open the hood and remove the battery negative terminal.
2. We remove the windshield wipers by prying and dismantling the rubber caps. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts and remove the brushes.
3. Using a slotted screwdriver, pry up the decorative plugs, unscrew the screws on the frill and the nuts on the edges. Now we can remove the frill.
4. Under the rubber seal you can find screws that hold the shield from the engine compartment. We also unscrew them.
5. We dismantle the hose through which washer fluid is supplied to the injectors.

The process of replacing a fan is not as complicated as it seems

1. On the right side of the engine compartment, there are two nuts on the bottom side that fit a 10mm socket wrench. They are difficult to get to, but you don’t have to unscrew them all the way, because with a few turns the shield can be easily removed.
2. It is necessary to remove the clamps from the hose that connects to the vacuum booster of the brake system in advance.
3. There are four self-tapping screws on the cabin filter cover; after unscrewing them, you can easily remove it.
4. Already at this stage the outlines of the stove motor are visible. But you will also need to disconnect the block on the heating system motor and on the resistor.
5. After the work has been done, it becomes possible to dismantle the left side of the stove along with the motor.
6. A new part is installed in place of the damaged element, and assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

If you have never had to remove a heating system fan before, this process may take several hours. But in the future, any problem with the heating system can be fixed much faster. Even if something doesn’t work out for you during your work, you don’t need to stop trying to achieve a positive result. Over time, everything will definitely work out.

Work progress:

1. Partially drain the coolant (to a level so that it does not flow out through the upper radiator pipe)
2. Removing the battery
3. Removing the air filter housing

Then you need to disconnect the electrical fan wiring harness connectors

After this, take a 10mm socket wrench and unscrew 1 fan mounting nut from the bottom.

Unscrew the 2 nuts of the upper fan mounting

• Loosen the clamp on the upper radiator pipe and remove the hose
• Now you can remove the fan

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.

The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

1. Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
2. Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
3. The fan does not turn on.
4. Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
5. It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

• fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
• resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
• controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
• wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.

On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, to remove the electric fan you need to:

1. Dismantle the frill.
2. Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
3. Remove the back cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
4. Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.

As for models with a new type of stove, the technology for removing the electric stove fan on such cars is different:

• dismantle the “jabot” and the front wall;
• remove the air filter;
• unscrew the fastening of the filter housing to the stove body and separate them;
• disconnect the wiring;
• remove the filter housing together with the fan;
• dismantle the electric fan.

We recommend: Removing the front door trim of the Lada Granta with your own hands

After removing the electric motor with the impeller, we disassemble it, perform troubleshooting, replace worn elements and put it back together.

Disassembling the cooling fan

To disassemble the electric fan, do the following:

Take a 10 mm socket wrench and unscrew the 3 nuts securing the electric motor to the fan casing

Next, use a screwdriver to pry up the wiring harness and disconnect it from the casing, then remove the casing itself.

Take a 13mm socket wrench and, holding the impeller with your hand, unscrew the impeller fastening nut

After this, remove the impeller itself

Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Source

Safety valve

Knowing physics, you will agree that at normal atmospheric pressure, the water that is part of antifreeze boils at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.

Old device

If the VAZ 2110 cooling fan fuse, that is, the valve located on the expansion tank cap, turns out to be faulty, and there is atmospheric pressure inside it, the cooling liquid will boil, but the fan will not be able to start working even with a working electrical circuit. This is because the fan switching sensor on the injection VAZ 2110 has a switching temperature of more than 100 degrees Celsius.

To fix this problem, replace the expansion tank cap. The new element must maintain the pressure inside the system above atmospheric pressure, which will allow the laws of physics to work, the boiling temperature to rise to 105 degrees Celsius and thereby turn on the blades of the unit.

Changing the VAZ 2110 cooling radiator with your own hands

Even for people who are quite far from technology, the purpose of a cooling radiator is clear - it removes excess heat from the engine, thereby preventing it from overheating and failing.

However, some time passes, the most important part of the cooling system may fail, or simply leak. Then there is a need to replace the cooling radiator of the VAZ 2110, which can be done not only at a service station, but also with your own hands.

New engine cooling radiator

Device

Any radiator on a car, regardless of its brand, consists of:

• Two halves (body);
• Patrubkov;
• Cores;
• Filler plug in the upper part of the radiator, equipped with valves (one is inlet, the other is outlet);
• Drain tap, in the lower half of the body.

  
  Design (diagram) of the engine cooling system

The body, which can often be made of aluminum, less often copper, consists of two tanks (one on top, the other on the bottom) and adjacent pipes through which the coolant circulates.

The core is rows of brass tubes soldered to cooling fins. They are located inside the case.

Cooling liquid enters the radiator through the filler plug and is drained through the drain valve, if necessary.

In addition, the power unit for maintaining thermal conditions includes an electric fan and a thermostat.

Causes of engine overheating

The reasons for overheating of the VAZ 2110 engine include, first of all, the insufficiently efficient operation of the cooling system. The reasons may be:

1. The radiator pipes are clogged. A thing that is rarely seen today, and only when using coolant of extremely low quality. In this case, replacing them will help;
2. Low coolant level due to leakage at the attachment points of the pipes or cracks in the pipes themselves. Need to replace fasteners or pipes;
3. Housing contamination. Here you should take into account a small detail: the whole car, the radiator in particular, requires care. It should not be allowed to “overgrow” with dirt, fallen leaves, or other debris. Because of this, the efficiency of its work is significantly reduced;
4. The radiator is leaking. It is necessary to remove it in order to decide based on the location, size of the leak, and general wear and tear of the unit whether it needs repair or replacement.

Model selection

For the VAZ 2110 you can choose either aluminum or copper radiators. To a large extent, the choice depends on what result you need: saving money or durability and reliability.

Their disadvantages and advantages:

• Aluminum. Lightweight, relatively cheap, the price depends on the manufacturer: - Luzar (2110-8101060) - about 1000 rubles; - Pramo (2110-1301012) - retail for about 1600 rubles. But its thermal conductivity interferes, it cools the engine worse. In addition, it is subject to fairly rapid corrosion; it takes less time for it to flow;

  
  Aluminum radiator cooling

• Copper. It is heavier, significantly more efficient in its cooling characteristics, and lasts longer, since the copper body is less susceptible to corrosion. For it to flow, mechanical action (impact, etc.) is most often required. The disadvantage is that its price is higher, about 5,000 rubles, for a two-row one, with an increased efficiency of 40%.

  
  Copper cooling radiator with 40% increased efficiency

Dismantling and installation

To remove the cooling radiator from a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, you must:

1. Drain the coolant through the bottom plug;
2. Remove the battery as it is in the way;
3. On the injection VAZ 2110, it is also necessary to remove the air filter;
4. The upper mount to the frame must be disassembled, simultaneously releasing the fan;
5. Remove the electric fan;
6. Remove two hoses - for steam supply/discharge;
7. Tilt the radiator towards the engine and remove.

That is, removal is quite simple. Now, if the radiator leaks slightly, but is not severely damaged by corrosion, you can repair it. Otherwise, replace it. When choosing a new radiator for a VAZ 2110, be sure to take into account the model of the previously installed one so that the new one fits perfectly.

When installing, make sure that the rubber pads on which the body rests with the lower part fit firmly into the holes on the cross member.

Next, you need to fill in the coolant (you can use the old one by filtering it), and then start the engine.

Problems with the electrical circuit

If checking the reservoir cap does not reveal any faults, then the problem may lie in the circuit.

The search should begin by checking the serviceability of fuse F7. To do this, you need to gain access to the mounting block and check the contacts for the presence of oxidative traces. If nothing of the sort was noted, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, clean the contact connections or simply replace the fuse with a new element. The part is inexpensive.

The next step is to check the fan switch sensor:

1. Initially, warm up the car to 100 degrees.
2. Turn off the engine and immediately start the engine.
3. Open the hood and disconnect the terminal from the fan sensor.
4. If, after disconnecting the contact, the fan starts working, then the unit is operational, but the sensor needs to be replaced.
5. When the fan does not turn on after disconnecting the terminal, then the situation is the opposite - the sensor is working, but the fan is not.

Electric motor breakdowns are often the reason why the fan does not turn on. If all the previous measures did not help you find the problem, then you will need to dismantle the electric motor. The following problems can be identified in this node:

1. The commutator brushes are worn.
2. The brushes are stuck.
3. There was a short circuit in the armature winding - the problem is identified by a characteristic smell.

Problems with the relay. Sometimes a situation arises when the cooling system fan start button simply fails. In this case, you will need to carry out the following work:

1. Remove the trim on the right side of the dashboard inside the passenger compartment. To do this, you need to unscrew two screws.
2. Under this panel there are three relays.
3. The required relay is usually located on the side in relation to the front of the car.
4. To be sure to act correctly, find the car's operating manual and check the wires that go to the relay we need.
5. To solve the problem with the relay, you just need to install a new element. You should not skimp on this component. Cheap models break down very quickly.

Why does the heater fan only work at speed 4? AvtoVAZ problems

• First we disconnect the battery; to do this, just remove the negative terminal;
• The windshield frame trim is removed;
• The vacuum booster may be in the way, so it's best to remove it. Although, this action is performed at the request of the driver;
• Disconnect the block with wires from the resistor;
• Remove the resistor. It is secured with a regular screw; unscrewing it will remove the part.

• First we remove the impeller. It needs to be slightly heated with a hairdryer and tapped with light blows of a hammer;
• The rotor is riveted;
• Usually, the cause of howling is the burning of the bushing to the shaft and/or lack of lubrication. Remove the bushing. It will have to be carefully knocked out. Apply grease to the shaft, also lubricate the bushing;
• The bushing is carefully hammered into place, after which the engine is riveted back. The assembled motor is installed in the car.

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What to do when the fan runs constantly

There are situations when the cooling radiator works without interruption, both on a hot and cold engine. The reasons can be very different. Now we will look at the main problems and ways to solve them.

1. A break in the sensor that monitors the antifreeze temperature readings or its circuits. In this case, the Check engine light comes on. The circuits and sensor are checked with an ohmmeter. The problem is solved by replacing the element with a new one.
2. The fan relay contacts open. First, the component is checked with a multimeter and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.
3. Malfunctions in the ECU. Check this node on the profile service. If a malfunction is detected, the firmware or the unit is changed completely.
4. In VAZ carburetor models, the thermal switch contacts do not open. To check operation, disconnect the terminals from the terminals of this unit - and the fan will stop. In this case, it is necessary to replace the faulty part.

If the tests carried out have not determined why the fan is constantly running, then the only possible way out of the situation is to contact a service center.

Full-fledged service stations, as a rule, conduct a full computer check of the cooling system, which can identify the most difficult to detect faults. The failure can be much more global than a normal fuse failure.

If the usual testing steps do not produce any results, then you should not be afraid to contact the service, and even in cases where you consider yourself an experienced technician. Often, modern equipment and a professional approach significantly reduce the troubleshooting time. Whereas conventional methods would take weeks to determine the problem. Therefore, car services have their own advantages.

Fan device on VAZ-2114

Before moving directly to the causes and methods of solving the problem, it is necessary to understand the design features of the unit. In other words, how does a radiator fan on a car work?

Radiator and electric fan parts: 1 - radiator; 2 — radiator cap; 3 - electric motor; 4 - casing; 5 - impeller; 6 — rubber cushion; 7 - drain plug

It is also worth considering the electrical circuit of the radiator fan:

The fan does not turn off: the main causes of the malfunction

Now that we know how the fan radiator works, we can move directly to the issue of identifying the reasons for its failure. So, let's look at what causes the node to not turn on:

• Wiring shorted.
• Relay.
• Temperature sensor (see “Replacing the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH)”.
• ECU.

Elimination methods

After the motorist has identified all possible causes, it is necessary to move directly to elimination methods. It is worth warning that this malfunction is associated, for the most part, with electrical circuits , where certain knowledge is required, therefore, if the motorist is not confident in his abilities, he should contact a car service center.

So, let's consider the sequence of actions aimed at eliminating the problem.

Wiring short circuit

Often, the effect of the cooling fan not turning off is the fusion of the contact group wires.

Simply put, the contacts simply close due to the fact that the wiring insulation has melted. This effect could be observed on old Zhiguli cars when they forced the fan to rotate.

The solution is to replace part of the wires, which even a novice motorist can handle. You can replace the entire wiring harness or simply replace the burnt part of the wire and insulate it with electrical tape.

Fan relay

Another problem may be the failure of the electric fan control relay, or rather its short circuit within itself . In this case, it must be removed from the mounting block and a new one installed. If the malfunction disappears, then the problem was in the relay.

Coolant temperature sensor

Failure or improper operation of the coolant temperature sensor causes the fan to not turn off. If the sensor freezes, the electric fan does not work , and the ECU thinks that the engine temperature is the same as on the sensor. There will be more critical consequences if the instrument panel does not show the engine temperature.

The solution to the situation is to replace the damaged element.

ECU

Not often, but the problem becomes that there are errors in the electronic control unit, especially in terms of cooling, the electric fan does not turn off. So, the method of eliminating the problem is resetting all errors or completely flashing the ECU. It is best to entrust this process to professionals and send the car to a car service center.

Expansion tank cap

The last reason why the VAZ-2110 cooling fan may be a malfunction of the expansion tank cap. The fact is that when the engine is running, a pressure above atmospheric pressure is created in the cooling system, due to which the water, which is part of the coolant, does not boil at 100 o C. The expansion tank cap valve is designed to maintain the required pressure. If it fails, the pressure in the system will be equal to atmospheric pressure. The cooling fan on the VAZ 2112 does not turn on. This will lead to the coolant starting to boil already at 100 degrees. A sensor designed to turn on at a higher temperature will naturally not work.

It is unlikely that you will be able to check the operation of the cover at home, so if during a visual inspection you have doubts about its functionality, it is better to replace it immediately.