Grant liftback trunk lock rattles how to fix it

We often hear complaints from car owners about poor-quality Granta Liftback trunk door locks. They say they fail prematurely.

The dissatisfaction is well founded, since from 2014 to 2022 the manufacturer installed one type of lock, and then a number of improvements were made and a new version appeared. It is still used in mass production. In order to provide methodological assistance to drivers, we will consider in detail the stages of prevention and replacement of door locks on Grant Liftback.

How to select and adjust locks on the trunk and doors of the Lada Granta Liftback

We often hear complaints from car owners about poor-quality Granta Liftback trunk door locks.
They say they fail prematurely. The dissatisfaction is well founded, since from 2014 to 2022 the manufacturer installed one type of lock, and then a number of improvements were made and a new version appeared. It is still used in mass production.

In order to provide methodological assistance to drivers, we will consider in detail the stages of prevention and replacement of door locks on Grant Liftback.

Reasons for replacement

It is necessary to replace the entire lock or just the contact group, depending on the nature of the breakdown and the situation with your car. Therefore, we will consider options when replacement may still be required.

When checking the contact group, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, otherwise a short circuit will occur, and not only the contactor will have to be replaced.

Circuit and pinout

First of all, get acquainted with the lock diagram and wire connection diagram, which will allow you to better understand the features of the 3Z pinout.

As you can see, the pinout includes 8 elements. What does each of them mean and what functions are they responsible for? We'll figure out.

1. Power supply for the inserted key sensor microswitch (+12Volt).
2. Power supply to ground when doors are opened on the driver's side.
3. Power supply that supplies current to the starter (+12Volt, pin 50 on the diagram).
4. Source at +12Volt. Activated after turning on the ignition. Power supply for additional equipment, such as video recorders, clocks, etc. (pin 15 in the diagram).
5. Source at +12 Volts. Triggers when the key is inserted. Goes to pin 5.
6. Power supply +12Volt. The illumination of the 3Z larva is activated.
7. +12V source from the battery (pin 30 in the diagram).
8. Not active.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of 10/08/18.

Front and rear wiring diagram

The wiring diagram for the front of the Lada Granta is quite simple, the main thing is not to confuse it with the wiring of the ignition system.

The following devices are available here.

Car front wiring diagram

1. Right block headlight.
2. Room lighting bulb.
3. Left block headlight.
4. Electric washer motor.
5. Accumulator battery.
6. Mounting block with power fuses.
7. DC generator.
8. Klaxon.
9. The plug connecting the front wiring harness to plug 1 of the instrument panel.
10. Plug connecting the front harness and plug 2 of the instrument panel.
11. Plug connecting the front harness to plug 2 of the instrument panel.
12. Reverse indicator switch.
13. Radiator fan.

The electrical circuit for the rear of the car is more complex, it has more elements and connects to 6 wire harnesses.

Wiring diagram of the rear part of Granta

1. Socket to connector 3 of the tidy.
2. Socket to connector 4 of the tidy.
3. Right side turn signal.
4. Left side turn signal.
5. Handbrake position sensor.
6. Rear window heating element.
7. Interior lighting lamp.
8. The switch is in the driver's seat belt.
9. Luggage compartment lighting.
10. Fuel pump module.
11. Right rear light.
12. Trunk lock drive.
13. Interior lighting switch.
14. Stop signal.
15. Left rear headlight.
16. Clamp to the left rear door harness block.
17. Clamp to the right rear door harness block.
18. Clamp to the harness block of the right front door.
19. Clamp to the left front door harness block.
20. Airbag control unit.
21. Clamp to the license plate light bulb harness block.

What is important to know about silent locks on the Lada Granta Liftback

Not all car owners are satisfied with the ease and noise level when closing the doors of their car. The defect is caused by excessive wear of parts and design flaws at the manufacturer level.

The principle of noise suppression is implemented by an installed noise absorber. In Lada Granta Liftback models, this is a rubber insert or a plastic polymer.

Silent locks are structurally composed of a pin and a shackle with a noise-absorbing insert. Some car owners practice replacing the arms, while leaving the standard locks unchanged. Already in this case, the noise level will be significantly lower, and locking the door will be easier.

At the same time, systematic use of the door lock leads to rapid wear of the polymer/rubber material. The owner has to come back for preventative maintenance again and again.

The principle of operation of the trunk opening and closing mechanism

Such a mechanism consists of a small number of parts:

• motor;
• a pair of four-pin relays;
• push rod;
• fuse;
• button to control the mechanism.

Installed tailgate servo

The drive responsible for the operation of the rod is available in two varieties. A more common option is a mechanism with a motor. It is highly practical and durable, which explains its popularity. The magnetic platter drive has not received such wide demand because it is complex and problematic. Its operation is based on the interaction of a relay with magnetic plates.

As a result of power supply to the relay, the rod is pulled back, which leads to the opening of the trunk lid. Old VAZ models are not designed for such a mechanism. On such cars, such mechanisms turn out to be impractical. During the installation process, you will have to carry out complex modernization, which often turns out to be irrational.

Preparatory stage

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones. Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

Common Causes of Premature Wear

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

Replacing the hood lock

What are the characteristics of the trunk?

What is the actual volume in liters? If you fold the rear row of seats, the Granta's trunk volume will reach 770 liters, and in the standard position of the rear passenger row, the trunk volume will be 440 liters. This model is the first ever liftback among the entire AvtoVAZ family. In terms of luggage compartment capacity in its standard state, the Granta managed to outstrip such a popular European hatchback as the Volkswagen Golf. However, with the rear row seats folded, the Golf takes the lead thanks to the trunk volume of 1200 liters, which turned out to be unattainable for the Lada designers. After all, the primary goal was to maintain a single wheelbase and platform similar to a sedan.

So, what is the real opinion of Granta owners about the capacity and ease of use of the luggage section, because its volume in liters is quite impressive. The Internet is replete with an incredible variety of photographs posted by the owners. Sometimes the Lada Granta liftback can plunge you into amazement - how much useful luggage its luggage compartment is ready to accommodate. However, in reality, not everything becomes as rosy with the amount of space in the trunk as it is positioned in advertising.

The rear seats have the only ability to fold completely when the front seats are moved close to the instrument panel. The inconvenience is that the rear headrest requires preliminary dismantling before folding. The top shelf in the luggage compartment can be removed without any extra effort, which is very convenient when transporting large items. Due to this action, space will not be added, but the luggage will not rest against anything. Niches on the right and left sides are suitable for storing medium-sized bags or a set of essential tools in case of an unexpected breakdown.

Above these technological recesses there are hangers designed for bags, which eliminates the need to clutter the rear seats with them. There is a light above the left niche, but it turns on when the low beam of the head optics is activated. An excellent solution for cloudy weather or dark periods of the day, however, the inconvenience is that you may forget to turn on the headlights beforehand.

Under the luggage mat you can find a full-fledged spare wheel, to which the manufacturer has added traditional attributes: a jack and a wheel wrench. There is enough space in the niche to accommodate a spare wheel with a large radius (if you wish to install 16-inch wheels). There is still room for the tool. This is easy to verify, you just have to look at the photo.

The wipers do not adhere well to the glass

The luggage compartment mat in the LADA Granta liftback made of rubber has not become popular among owners. The quality of the material is a little worse than expected, and it will not be possible to stick a traditional “motorist’s bag” to its surface with Velcro. The option of a rug with a pile covering will not be practical, since it is subject to the risk of contamination from spills of various liquids or dirt.

The rubber cover in the trunk can be easily placed on top of the standard one. If the niche for the spare wheel will be used for other luggage, then you should take into account the fact that one mat will rest against the niches on the sides of the trunk. If you place any object above the spare wheel niche, it will fall into its recess.

Reviews

Conclusion

The standard door locks on the Lada Granta Liftback are of good quality. Subject to careful handling and periodic lubrication, the service life is five years without mileage limitation.

Negative reviews are associated with violation of the terms of use of the mechanisms by the owners themselves.

Source

Let's make the alarm system and central locking together

Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:

In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.

Connection diagram for VAZ central locker

Take another look at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.

To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:

Connection diagram, central lock VAZ

The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.

An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:

1. Make and lay a 4-core cable running from the signaling unit to the 8-pin connector;
2. Connect the cable on the side of the alarm unit (see the last diagram);
3. Near the 8-pin connector, disconnect the white and brown wires coming from the microswitch (pins 5 and 7). The main thing is not to confuse them with the wires going to the triangular connector “C”;
4. Make connections to the broken wires, white and brown. That's all.

We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.

All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.

It would seem that if a person has experience working with electrical equipment, he can do everything according to the instructions given. As a result, if no mistakes are made, you may encounter an interesting phenomenon. Instead of closing, there will be a short-term locking followed by opening. And vice versa. What to do in this case?

Take a look at what exactly may be present in some of the configurations:

The driver's door may not have an actuator. And then, it is useless to connect the signaling system to the control unit. There is no actuator, which means there is no one to close or open the door and move the microphone lever. Let's say the locks are closed, and then we remove ground from the brown wire and we get the following: the white wire is on ground, unlocking occurs.

We note the following: installation can only be carried out when you are sure that there is an actuator in the driver's door.

There were configurations where only a microswitch was installed. There is no need for arrogance here - adding an actuator will be difficult, since standard wiring must go to it. As you understand, it may not be available from the factory. And it’s unclear what to do then.

There remains one unanswered question - where exactly the central locking control unit is located. In these VAZ models, if there is a central locking system, then there is also a control unit. And it is located under the torpedo cover, next to the driver, on the right:

We remove the “beard” of the torpedo and look at what is on the upper right. On the same plane with the radio connector there are two boxes attached - the one we need, as well as the immobilizer (if there is one).

We would be lying if we did not say that in reality there is another option for installing the alarm. Standardly, only two power cables go to the actuators. Having a power outlet equipped with a fuse, these cables are connected directly to the alarm relay. This option, as you might guess, is not recommended. Imagine what would happen if the alarm system broke. The central lock must remain, but in this case this will not be done. Happy connection!

How to diagnose the trunk door lock of a Lada Granta liftback

During the operation of Lada Granta liftbacks, owners may encounter a situation where, while driving, the door open indicator lights up on the instrument cluster. Or, when the fifth door is closed, the light in the trunk is on and the car cannot be set to alarm. To identify the causes of these malfunctions, LADA dealership centers use information letter No. 87-19 “On diagnostics of the tailgate lock of Lada Granta liftback cars.”

The diagnostic technique is as follows

:

1. Open the tailgate (the trunk light is on), note that in this case a two-position lock 21910-6305010-10 (84500-02338) is used.

2. With the door open, manually close the lock 2 clicks using a screwdriver with a diameter of up to 6 mm, moving it beyond sector “B”. Closing the lock by 2 clicks is shown by the levers “A” located at the right point of movement until it stops according to the photo below:

Check that there is a guaranteed gap between the emergency trunk release lever and the inner panel of the tailgate. The gap should be from 0.3 mm to 0.9 mm.

If there is no guaranteed gap between the lever and the door panel, or the lever is jammed, with the formation of rubbing on the lock lever, it is necessary to remove the lock to modify the plane of the plastic lever. Using a mechanic's tool, remove 0.5 mm of the width of the lever to eliminate harmful contact causing blocking of the lever and blocking of the limit switch.

If, after carrying out the above actions, the lighting in the trunk when closing the trunk lock manually with a screwdriver for two clicks with the tailgate open, while the interior doors are closed (make sure the door limit switches are in working order, if any, taking into account the configuration), and the hood is closed (make sure the limit switch is in good condition if it is included in the package), dismantle the trunk lock and check the limit switch circuit along the circuit of pins No. 1 – 2 for opening when the lock is closed.

If the lock's limit switch does not open the circuit at pin No. 1–2 when closing it, replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

If there is no closed circuit at pins No. 1–2 when opening the lock, also replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

3. If the lock is in good working order after carrying out diagnostics according to point 2, and the defect “the light is on in the trunk” is absent when the lock is manually closed with two clicks on the open tailgate, but the defect is present when the tailgate is actually closed, while the door is in the gaps has no deviations relative to the body, and it is impossible to determine visually how many clicks the tailgate lock is closed; it is necessary to adjust the door lock latch.

Let us remind you that you will find other instructions for self-repairing Grants in this section.

Source

Possible problems and ways to solve them

You can, of course, buy Lada door closers and door stops and make repairs in accordance with the instructions. But this operation can be performed in a more productive way. To carry it out you need:

• rubber tubes;
• screwdriver;
• Silicone Grease.

A common symptom of a broken lock is that a loud sound appears before the door opens/closes. The design of the front door lock is made in such a way that the metal can sometimes rattle. In order to eliminate this problem, you need to remove the lock itself and put rubber tubes of the required size on the levers. Immediately all sounds coming from ahead will disappear. When closing the doors, only a bang will be heard, and all sharp and loud sounds will be a thing of the past.

If the car has a universal body, then you should also adjust the lock on the trunk door. The locking tongue itself fits into the bracket. You need to find it and check the tightening of the screws. Then the lock must be lubricated with silicone grease, and then the door must be checked by opening it. If the lock does not work properly, you need to screw on the rubber stops, but they should not be over-tightened. Then check the drive rod of the Lada Granta door lock.

If jamming and play are observed, they should be eliminated. Moreover, all this must be done at once. You can also buy limiters for the trunk lock. Before purchasing Lada door closers or door stops, you should first consult with a specialist. Having received the necessary and important information, you can choose the highest quality limiters. Problems with the operation of the lock can be solved by making a quality adjustment. To do this, certain actions must be taken.

Most often, the reason for poor lock performance is the difference in the radius of curvature of the upper door frame. If you look at it in detail, you can see that when simultaneously adjusting the locks at the rear of the car, they always touch the top of the sealing rubber differently. Tight opening compresses it much more in the closed position. To adjust the locks, you can use the following method.

You need to twist a thick paper tube and insert it into the upper part of the window frame, while slightly lowering the glass. Then press in. This procedure must be done several times, using your hands to bend the frame when closed. By following these tips, you can handle the repair yourself. The only thing is that you need to have Lada Granta door stops in stock. But you should not refuse help or advice from a specialist, since sometimes the repair scheme can be very complex.

Way out

What to do if the car door does not open from the inside or outside? In fact, there are not so many solutions.

• Call a qualified service technician to open the door or lock. Considering current prices, just one call will cost the owner half the average salary. So it's not fun for everyone. This service can only be used in extreme situations;
• Remove the door hinges and unscrew the lock fastening: this option is more suitable when the front doors are jammed. The bottom line is this: if the door cannot be opened either from the outside or from the inside, then you need to use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two hinges of the rear door that follows the “problem” door. In this way we will provide access to the rear wall of the lock mount. Here it’s a matter of chance, you can unscrew two bolts the first time, or spend 10-15 minutes doing this. After unscrewing the bolts, disconnect the rear wall of the door lock from the body. All that remains is to make an effort to pull back the door, and everything is ready;
• Next, it is necessary to remove the mechanism itself and do diagnostics, look for the cause, but this is “a completely different story”;

Unscrew the rubber seals and get to the lock hook: the solution to the situation is very good, both for the domestic and foreign automobile industry

No matter which door is jammed, you need to remove the upper rubber seal between the glass and the outside of the door. We will face a space one centimeter wide, which must be used with maximum efficiency.

The idea is to find a piece of wire, bend it at the end, creating a kind of small hook.

Trunk lid rattling

If we consider the rear door of the car, which closes the luggage compartment, then it is attached at three points:

The door obviously cannot rattle in the upper hinges. It remains to look for the reason in the castle. On modern cars, the closing elements of the lock are covered with plastic. Therefore, the trunk doors rattle less in these places. On cars of earlier releases, all parts are metal without any coating.

The knocking sound occurs due to the fact that when the rear door is closed, a small gap remains between the lock parts and the fixing element on the body.

When the car moves, especially on a bad road with uneven surfaces, the door moves and the lock latch hits the locking element on the body. As a result, a knock is heard from the rear of the car - this is the trunk rattling, and specifically the trunk lid.

How to find the cause of the sound and fix the problem, you ask? If you don’t improve anything, then nothing. But car owners use different tricks and give their “experienced advice.” For example, some drivers wrap 2-3 layers of regular electrical tape around the body clamp. As a result, the gap after closing the door decreases or disappears altogether.

Of course, electrical tape will not solve the problem forever, since when moving it is affected by the lock, and it becomes unusable. But if you rarely open the trunk, then for a month or two you will get rid of the problem and drive in silence.

In addition, on the sides of the door from below it is supported by two rubber buffers, which can be twisted and extended. Therefore, you need to adjust the length of the buffers so that they support the door sufficiently when closing it. If adjusted correctly, electrical tape may not be needed.

Installation of the activator: preparatory work

Since there is space for a trunk lock activator in Kalina, it makes sense to use it. Absolutely any activator will do. Of course, for those who are interested in the quality and long service life of the entire device, it is better not to stop at extremely cheap options. Experienced car owners still advise choosing domestic Kalina electric lock drives, regardless of body type. They are somewhat more expensive than similar products made in China or Taiwan, but still more reliable. Main parameters of the activator:

• 12 volts;
• two-pin;
• lock-unlock functions.

In order for the system to open doors by pressing a button to work fully, one activator will not be enough. You will also need such a thing as a rotary washer. According to many car owners, the easiest way is to grind it yourself. You will need a steel plate and a machine. There are quite enough drawings with dimensions that will show what kind of rotary washer for the Kalina activator should be on various auto forums.

It is possible that after the washer is manufactured, it will have to be modified when installing the activator. The activator installation technique itself will require some tricks. For example, the first step is to remove the trunk trim. It is secured with pistons, which immediately became unusable for most car owners. Conclusion: pre-purchase of “hedgehogs” for subsequent installation of the trunk trim in place is mandatory.

Another nuance lies in the types of locks on the Lada Kalina. Firstly, locks on cars produced before 2010 and after differ in their design. Accordingly, the types of activators will differ slightly. This issue is resolved upon purchase. Secondly, most of those who independently installed the lock activator for Kalina station wagon either modified the lock itself or replaced it with another one. It remains to figure out why this is needed and how it is done.

The bottom line is that the trunk lock is equipped with two “tongues”. After modifying the lock to open it with a button on the key, the existing problems were partially solved, but a new one arose. If, when opening the trunk with the key button, someone did not support the trunk lid in time, it would lower, as a result the trunk would close again. And only on one “tongue”. And this meant that the key fob certainly became useless. Now it was possible to open the trunk again only with the key. This is where two options for solving the problem appeared.

Trunk lock rattling

In addition to the trunk lid rattling, the lock itself can make similar sounds. This happens when it is already so worn out that nothing can be done with it. It's easier to buy a new lock and replace the old one.

The trunk lock does not rattle only in recent foreign cars, and even then not in all brands. This problem is all too common among domestically produced vehicles, and even the Lada Vesta. She sometimes experiences noise from the lock.

Knocks from the rear can appear when starting from a stop, when driving on a bad road, over uneven surfaces, or when turning. In all cases, there is a reason for the knocking, why the rear rattles or the trunk knocks.

Luxury or necessity

The automatic trunk opening feature is found in many new cars. Drivers like this feature, because you quickly get used to good things. To open the luggage compartment in a car, just press a button in the cabin. The lock comes into operation as a result of the operation of the electric drive.

This feature may seem like a small thing and an insignificant addition until the cold weather arrives. In cold weather, the lock on the trunk often freezes, making opening the compartment a difficult task. You have to spend time defrosting the mechanism. In the case of an electric drive, such problems will not arise. Also, such a mechanism makes car hacking more difficult, which is also an important advantage.

Mostly imported cars are equipped with this function, and not all of them. Domestic manufacturers have only recently begun to equip their models with such functionality. Every car owner can equip his car with an electric drive for the trunk. This will not be difficult to do, but you will still have to tinker.

Trunk shelf rattles

This reason occurs in almost all car brands, except Japanese cars, with rare exceptions. Here drivers manage as best they can. Some people place soft elements under the sides of the shelf, for example, glue strips of soft foam rubber. Other drivers simply put a rag on hand and don’t bother too much.

On many cars, the rear parcel shelf rattles because the rubber buffer that is installed on it from the factory is missing or lost. When closing, the door presses the shelf through this rubber element, and the shelf is pressed tightly. As a result, the rear parcel shelf no longer rattles. Therefore, if there is no rubber band, buy it at a car store and get rid of the problem. Or install a homemade support instead.

How to close the trunk?

The roomy 480-liter trunk, although it seems problem-free, is weak in one area - the loop into which the trunk lock is latched barely holds on and does not always go where it should.

You should pick up the tools (swearing loudly about the shitty pre-sale preparation at the dealer and the entire Russian auto industry is allowed), tighten everything that can be tightened. And the loop from the body, where the trunk lock is hooked, also needs to be corrected. We take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew (yes, unscrew!), the entire structure of the hinge, we see that the hinge itself is wobbly, that it is not securely fastened with anything (we are swearing again)). )

This miracle can be corrected only by additional hammering with a hammer (when we hit, we imagine the face of the engineer at the factory during the design, and the worker who tightened all the bolts), the screws are as tight as possible. If you want the trunk to close even more easily, you should lubricate the contact points between the hinge and the lock with any industrial grease.

Knock from front or rear

If you hear knocks in the front of your car, this is a topic for a separate discussion. There the issue may be in the brakes and suspension, chassis and other components. A knock from the rear on the right or left also applies to the luggage compartment of the car. Here, look at what you have there, what things or objects can make sounds.

A pump that is not secured and on bumps in the road simply jumps and rattles can knock. A jack can create the same problem. Most often, after putting things in order, everything returns to normal. Keep an eye on your “iron horse” and everything will be fine.

Granta sedan. Something is knocking on the bumps in the back, I can’t tell from the sound that it’s like a trunk or like a shelf. Maybe someone had something similar?

Place a passenger and let him listen

0 0 Answer rating: 0

Same problem, I looked through everything, it seems as if the spare wheel in the trunk is jumping.

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There's something rattling around my right rear door. Just as the backside is packed with passengers or cargo, so is the silence

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check the handbrake cable

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That's how it should be, it's an AvtoVAZ. Joke. No matter where it makes noise, my car is three and a half years old. We don't have normal roads at all. Today I changed the wheels and looked at the suspension, which was all dead. There is not enough time, spare parts were purchased a long time ago.

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The back of the seat was knocking like that

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Perhaps you need to change the bagels and put a screw nut under the plate! Oh, I'm exhausted with these bagels. Also on the back right! I ate all my nerves. As a result, I welded the puck there and replaced the original bagels with some foreign ones, the weights were several times greater. I also placed a rubber washer under the plate and on the plate and tightened it. All voila silence

0 0 Answer rating: 0

The rear suspension of a car is represented by a set of components and parts that act as a connecting link between the body and the road surface. It, in comparison with the front suspension, often has a simpler design, which is due to the absence of steering system elements, load distribution and the position of the center of gravity. Despite this, nodes can still fail. The first sign of a malfunction is the appearance of a knocking sound from the chassis.

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Connection diagram:

This modification will require about 1000 rubles, but it’s worth it! Let us remind you that instead of the standard lock, the “tens” also install a trunk lock from the Lada Kalina, but such a modernization will require more effort and time. By the way, do you know how to implement automatic closing of the trunk lid?

Is it worth installing an electric lock from a Lada Granta on a VAZ?

To successfully repair a failed electrical component in any car, you will need a corresponding circuit diagram. This approach will also be valid for the Lada Granta model considered here in the “Norma” version. Documentation is consulted if necessary to find the cause of a malfunction in the functioning of both electrical equipment and electrical communications, as well as other network elements. Let's figure out what an electrical circuit is in a car.

If a newbie in this field is interested in repairing the electrical part of a car, then at first it will be very difficult for him to navigate the mass of symbols and designations that the electrical circuit contains. And the electrical circuit itself will persistently frighten away with its apparent bulkiness.

The material below is specifically intended to assist the owner of the VAZ-2190 model (version Norma) with the necessary understanding of the structure present at the heart of the on-board electrical network.

Rear suspension design

In order to determine what could be knocking in the suspension, you should know what this element of the car consists of.

A sound in the rear suspension may appear when one of the above elements fails. At the same time, we note that if there is a constant knocking, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics of the suspension. If working with a car causes many problems, then you can entrust the diagnostics to specialists from a car service center. Note that the rear suspension has a very simple design and you can dismantle the worn part yourself.

Possible causes not related to suspension

Before determining what might be knocking, you should make sure that there is a problem with the suspension. Often, a knock may appear due to a minor malfunction of another element, but with strong vibration on the road, it seems that the problem is with the chassis elements. Possible causes of knocking include the following:

Ways to open the trunk without a key

There are several similar methods. The choice in favor of a particular one depends on the vehicle configuration, the lock mechanism and the manufacturer. Let's take a closer look at them.

From the inside

We are used to hearing the phrases five-door hatchback, three-door sedan. But it doesn’t always occur to you that the outermost odd-numbered door is intended for the luggage compartment. In an emergency, you need to fold down the rear seats and get into the luggage compartment of the body. Use a flashlight or touch to explore the door. Stumbled upon a pen? Open it with confidence.

Car trunk lock mechanism

Tools to help

In most domestic cars, it is impossible to open the trunk from the passenger compartment. One thing is missing: either a handle or that same door. You will have to remove the rear sofa, and then return it to its place and re-weld the hinges to the body. Sometimes this is not an option, since access to the compartment is made difficult by the rigid frames. In this case, a screwdriver or other hand tool will come to the rescue. Insert and turn the trunk lid retaining loop.

If the trunk does not open even in this case, a wrench is needed to remove the lock. The size of the bolts for fastening the actuator is M10 - M15. The procedure is effective if you have the skills to restore the lock yourself.

If the drive is electric

Despite the reliability of the electrical lock mechanisms, manufacturers play it safe. The set of car keys on the key fob also includes a mechanical opening key in emergency situations. It is advisable to make sure that it is available when purchasing a vehicle, otherwise you will have to contact the dealer again.

The problem with new cars

The methods described above are relevant for used cars. Modern cars, stuffed with electronics, do not tolerate such amateur activities. The same applies to new cars under warranty. To avoid early violation of the warranty, contact your dealership or authorized service station. A qualified specialist will qualitatively perform the task assigned to him.

There are also mobile technical assistance services in every city or region. You need to contact them if the problem occurs at the wrong time - you urgently need a spare tire or a set of tools in the trunk.

Diagnostics of suspension guides

Many cars have a similar rear suspension design, which makes diagnostics and dismantling easier. The differences can only be in the principle of fastening and the type of installed parts. During the diagnosis you should:

The threaded connection of the flanges used when attaching the guide elements can also cause a problem. The flanges can be repaired, but it is recommended to install new ones. The check is carried out on an overpass or pit, since problems are determined visually or using force (that is, you need to strongly loosen the guide elements with your hands). This will require good lighting. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out work in the garage.

How the central lock works

On the VAZ 2110, the central lock is a system designed to open and close vehicle doors. For more convenient control of the central locking on the VAZ 2110, and on other cars, a remote control has long been used. If necessary, the central lock can be configured so that it turns on automatically after a certain period of time. Depending on the system, the key fob can be used to control the trunk door, the engine compartment, and sometimes the central locking system even allows you to open and close the windows. In the event of an accident, the central locking system can operate automatically, opening all doors of the vehicle.

The VAZ central locking system includes sensors in its design - these are door limit switches, solenoids, and a control unit. The limit switch is designed to fix the position of the doors, and data about this, in turn, is transmitted to the VAZ 2110. The purpose of the switches is to secure the structural elements of the door lock.

The system itself is locked using one switch, and the unlocking function is performed by another sensor. The design includes two more switches that ensure normal operation of the locking mechanism. Another one, the fifth switch, is mounted on the lever mechanism of the drive; its purpose is to detect the position of the door. If the car door is open, the contacts of the elements close, and accordingly, the entire system is deactivated. To perform a particular function, the control unit transmits an impulse to certain control devices, thus activating the drive.

Spring problem

Although springs are very durable, they can also wear out over time under certain operating conditions. Often, spring wear manifests itself in a slightly different way: the car wobbles at high speed, strong rocking, or a sagging rear end. However, when looking for something that may be knocking, you can conduct a visual inspection and pay attention to the following points:

In most cases, springs lose their elasticity due to long service life or when exposed to heavy loads (for example, a passenger car has been used for a long time to transport a heavy load). The appearance of defects in the turns indicates poor quality of the metal used in manufacturing, a manufacturing defect, or severe wear. If everything is in order, we carry out further inspection.

Shock absorbers: a common problem caused by rough roads.

Shock absorbers can be considered the most vulnerable structural element. They are designed to absorb impacts when overcoming broken sections of the road. You can determine shock absorber wear as follows:

Electric drive: easy installation

The manipulation algorithm is very simple. Here you will need to make the rotary plate together with the rod yourself. The wiring is laid directly to the lock and connected to a special control unit. When the car is “disarmed”, the electric drive of the luggage lock is activated following the unlocking of the button responsible for opening the rear door of the Lada Kalina.

The whole essence of the action comes down to connecting the electric lock to two cable lines. You can buy the product at a specialized retail outlet. The end of the luggage compartment will need to be hidden in order to prevent the risk of moisture getting into it. If this is neglected, then with the penetration of water a short circuit will be observed in the designated area.

Much attention should be paid to the area near the door hinges, because broken wires are a common occurrence here. To prevent this, it is recommended to regularly monitor this section of the highway.

Before starting the procedure for installing the electric drive in a Lada Kalina car, you will need to remove the plastic trim. Here you need to be careful not to damage the specified protective element.

The choice of a lock for LADA Kalina should mean that there is no subsequent need for modifications before installation. This means drilling additional holes.

An important point in the installation procedure is the laying of electrical lines. For these purposes, you will need about 3.5 m of appropriate cable. You can use standard wiring suitable for the rear door. The power supply can be a cigarette lighter socket

It is also important to install the fuse correctly

We do all switching in LADA Kalina in accordance with the diagram.

Consequences of ignoring a knock

Any extraneous sounds that appear while driving must be identified without delay, as their presence may indicate a serious malfunction. In this case, let’s look at the consequences of knocking in the rear suspension:

In most cases, a knock in the rear suspension is detected almost immediately, as it occurs while overcoming a bump or pothole on the road. As a rule, suspension elements fail after their service life has expired. If you replace parts in a timely manner, you can avoid road accidents and serious material costs.

Source

Features of door adjustment

The opening device may become stuck because the door is sagging or poorly adjusted. Several effective methods have been developed:

The adjustment is carried out using the lock latch located on the door fragment pillar. Using an impact screwdriver, three bolts are loosened, the door is adjusted, and the screws are tightened. Adjustment of the response part. It provides soft and silent closing/opening. To do this, the door is moved outward using external adjustment screws. Hammering the bracket with a hammer

After a slight shift, it is important to check the functionality of the door, then repeat the procedure if necessary.

Loosen - tighten, this is an algorithm that will allow you to adjust any structure, even the trunk. If the door element is skewed, it means that the points on the rotation axis have shifted. Therefore, the loops are simply tightened by 5 mm. If these actions do not help, then the distortion should be looked for in another part of the body.

Description

The fiberglass trunk lid “ AVR ” is designed for tuning Lada Samara cars, the main advantage of which is its extremely low weight, which has a positive effect on the weight distribution of the car.

The AVR trunk lid for VAZ 2108, 2109, 2113, 2114 is a lightweight trunk lid made of fiberglass, which does not differ in shape from the standard one and has good strength.

Technical specifications:

— Manufacturing material — fiberglass

— Material thickness — 2.3 mm.

— Door weight — 2.8 kg.

— The hinges are fastened from the factory.

— Installation of the lock — there is a place for installing the factory door lock.

— Installation of glass — the possibility of installing glass in factory seals is provided, as well as the possibility of installing lightweight plastic.

The manufacturer reserves the right to change the characteristics of the product, its appearance and completeness without prior notice to the seller.

Replacement of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110, dismantling.

First of all, we need to disconnect the ground from the battery so that in further work we do not accidentally close the contacts, which will lead to a short circuit.

Next, remove the casing on the steering column, otherwise we simply won’t be able to get to the lock. You can also remove the turn switches if they really bother you too much.

Using a chisel and hammer, unscrew the fastening bolts; their heads are round (photo 1)

Therefore, this must be done carefully so as not to knock off the head on the bolt and unscrew them with pliers.

Insert and turn the key to the “zero” position. This action will disable the anti-theft device.

We remove the bracket on which these bolts and the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 were attached. Place labels on the contact wires in different colors so as not to confuse them.

If you decide to partially repair the ignition switch. Maybe changing the lamp that illuminates the larva, the microswitch. Then you should follow some tips. And also first remove the lock itself.

Sequencing:

• We disconnect the connectors that used to operate the ignition switch.
• To change the backlight bulbs, disconnect the connector and remove it with pliers.
• To replace the contacts, press the latches with a screwdriver.
• We take a shaped screwdriver, unscrew the three screws, and remove the rod.
• Use a regular screwdriver to remove the latch and remove the microswitch itself.

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

1. Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
2. Turn off the ignition. The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
3. While the warning lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), insert the remote control and turn on the ignition. The immobilizer buzzer should emit three beeps. If the buzzer does not sound and the indicator has stopped flashing, this means: - the time interval of 6 seconds has been exceeded and it is necessary to repeat the learning procedure, starting from step 1; -immobilizer is faulty
4. Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
5. If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
6. After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.
7. Turn off the ignition without removing the training key, wait 6 seconds until the buzzer sounds a single sound signal. The indicator should flash twice as fast. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing indicator stops, you should return to step 1 and repeat the learning procedure. If a repeated failure occurs when performing step 7, this means that the ECM was previously trained with a different key, in which case the controller should be replaced.
8. After the buzzer gives a single sound signal, no later than 3 seconds, turn on the ignition for 2...3 seconds and then turn it off (after turning on the ignition, the buzzer will sound three times and the indicator will stop flashing). The hazard warning lights should flash and the car horn should beep.
9. Remove the learning key. Wait with the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. Insert the working key and turn on the ignition. Wait 6 seconds, if the indicator does not flash, test start the engine, the engine should start. If the indicator flashes, turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn on the ignition. The warning light should not flash and the engine should start. If, after turning on the ignition, after 6 seconds the indicator lights up with a constant light, then the learning procedure must be repeated, starting from step 1.