Self-diagnosis and replacement of the fuel pump VAZ 2114/2115

• Symptoms of a problem
• Diagnostics

  Checking the electrical circuit

• Pressure check

Fuel pump malfunction in VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars is a fairly common phenomenon. You can solve this problem yourself, without resorting to the services of a car service. The pump replacement procedure is quite simple. It will require only a few hours of free time and a standard set of tools.

Models of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115 cars

VAZ 2114/2115 cars are equipped with 1.5 cm3 and 1.6 cm3 gasoline engines with a distributed injection system. A submersible electric fuel pump is used to supply fuel. It is part of the fuel module installed at the top of the gas tank (under the rear seat). In addition to the pump, the module includes a fuel accumulator (cup), a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor with a float.

To supply fuel in VAZ 2114/2115 cars, a submersible electric fuel pump is used

The VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump is a conventional DC electric motor in a sealed housing with a one-way valve at the outlet. An impeller of a special shape is located on the electric motor shaft. Its rotation ensures the fuel supply.

The fuel module includes a fuel pump, a fuel accumulator, a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor

The fuel pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The electrical circuit of the pump, protected by a fuse, is closed using a separate relay.

Electric fuel pumps for VAZ cars are produced by both domestic (Utes, SAAZ, Pekar) and foreign companies. The latest modifications of the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with BOSH pumps, which are distinguished by their high reliability, long service life and relatively low price.

Design of the electric fuel pump VAZ 2114/2115

Catalog numbers of standard fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115:

• 2112–1139009–12 — for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3;
• 2112–1139009–01 — for engines with a volume of 1.6 cm3;
• 580453453 (BOSH) - for engines with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 cm3.

These models differ in operating pressure. The former are capable of creating a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa in the fuel system, the latter - 3.7–3.9 kPa. BOSH fuel pumps are rated at 3.5 kPa.

Checking the electrical circuit

At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:

1. car tester (multimeter);
2. crosshead screwdriver;
3. two pieces of wire about 2 m long.

Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:

• Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
• Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.

The relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114/2115 are located in the mounting block under the glove compartment.

• Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.
• Be sure to check the connection of the pump's negative wire to ground. Often it is the lack of “ground” that causes interruptions in the operation of the fuel pump. Remove the plastic trim from the center console near the parking brake handle. Under it there is a “negative” wire of the pump, screwed to the body with a self-tapping screw. Unscrew it, clean the contacts, screw it back and repeat the test.

The ground wires of the fuel pump are attached to the body with a self-tapping screw

• Then check the fuel module. Remove the rear seat, peel back the carpet and sound insulation. Unscrew the two screws securing the gas tank flap and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel module cover. Using two wires, supply power to the pump directly from the battery. If the pump works, the wiring is faulty; if it doesn’t work, the pump itself is faulty.

Symptoms of a problem

A malfunction of the fuel pump of VAZ 2114/2115 cars can be diagnosed by the following symptoms:

• when the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running;
• the engine does not start or starts with difficulty;
• the power unit is unstable at idle, the speed “floats”;
• “dips” appeared during acceleration;
• the motor has lost power.

The same signs also appear when other elements of the fuel system malfunction.

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump, you should make sure that:

• the fine fuel filter is not clogged (it is changed every 7 thousand kilometers);
• the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are operating normally;
• The sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, and oxygen quantity are working properly.

If the detected malfunction is accompanied by the lighting of the “CHECK” lamp on the dashboard, you should set the error code and decipher it.

Pressure check

If the pump is working properly, but the engine begins to operate intermittently, you should check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:

1. pressure gauge (can be a tire gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 kPa);
2. petrol-resistant hose with a diameter of 10–12 mm and a length of 50–80 cm;
3. two clamps for a hose of the appropriate diameter;
4. Phillips screwdriver;
5. nipple cap;
6. dry rag.

In addition, the presence of an assistant is desirable.

The verification procedure is as follows:

• In the engine compartment on the engine fuel rail, locate the pressure measuring fitting (on the right side).
• Remove the plastic cap (plug) from the fitting.

Find the pressure fitting and remove the cap from it

• Using the nipple cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting. When unscrewing the spool valve, fuel may spray out of the fitting. To remove it, use a dry cloth.

When unscrewing the spool valve, fuel may spray out of the fitting.

• Place one end of a gas-resistant hose onto the fitting and secure the connection with a clamp. Connect the other end of the hose to the pressure gauge fitting and also tighten the clamp.

Connect the pressure gauge to the fitting using a hose and clamps

• Ask an assistant to turn on the ignition. Wait a few seconds and watch the meter readings. If the pump is working properly, the pressure gauge should show a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3 and 3.7–3.9 kPa for engines of 1.6 cm3. If the pressure is noticeably higher, the pump is faulty.

Electric fuel pump module VAZ 2110, 2114, 2170 “SAN-D”

Description:

Applicability:

* Time specified for the region: Russia, Tolyatti

Return and exchange conditions

The company returns and exchanges this product in accordance with legal requirements.

Return deadlines

Returns are possible within 7 days after receipt (for goods of good quality).

Return delivery of goods is carried out by agreement.

According to current legislation, you can return a product of good quality or exchange it if:

• the product has not been used and has no signs of consumer use: scratches, chips, abrasions, stains, etc.;
• the product is fully assembled and in its original packaging;
• all labels and factory markings are preserved;
• the product retains its presentation and its consumer properties.

Source

Necessary tool

What to do if the pump fails? To dismantle old and install new equipment, you need to prepare the following tools:

• Phillips and flat screwdriver;
• socket wrench 7;
• open-end wrenches sizes 10 and 17.

Before replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114, you need to make sure that it is the problem. To do this you need to do the following:

If when you turn the ignition key you do not hear the noise of the running motor, then use a multimeter to check the power circuit. To do this, remove the fuses from the mounting block (located under the glove compartment) and measure them.

And also “mass”. To do this, remove the lining near the handbrake lever. We find the “minus” of the fuel pump (attached to the car body). Disconnect, clean and put back. And lastly, we check the presence of power directly to the fuel module. It is necessary to dismantle it (located under the rear seat) and connect it directly from the battery.

We check the pressure in the system.

Under the hood of the car we find a special fitting with a cap. We remove it, put a hose on it, and the other end to the pressure gauge. Moreover, both ends must be tightened with clamps. Turn on the ignition and record the instrument readings.

The pressure should be between 2.8 and 3.9 kPa.

If there is no positive result, the fuel pump is replaced with a new one. Let's look at how to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114. We proceed in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect the terminals from the battery. Let's use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal of the battery.
2. To reduce the pressure in the system, unscrew the fuel tank cap.
3. Raise the back seat.
4. We unscrew the latches (screws) of the hatch and move it to the side.
5. Then disconnect the power supply to the module.
6. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the fuel line. If your car is a new year of manufacture, then instead of a threaded connection you will have plastic latches that you just need to press and disconnect the fuel hoses.
7. Next, remove the module cover by unscrewing 8 nuts.
8. You need to pry off the special ring that holds the fuel module, after which we remove the module.
9. Using a flat screwdriver, remove the coarse filter, as well as the retaining rings on the glass.
10. Then remove the fuel pipes and electrical connector. We take out the glass.
11. We take out the fuel pump.
12. We put a new part in its place and perform all assembly steps in reverse order.

Advice . If a clogged coarse filter or a faulty sensor is detected, all parts are replaced with new ones.

Removing, installing and replacing the fuel pump

The first thing to keep in mind is that all work on the car’s fuel system must be carried out with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected. It would also be a good idea to do this with an empty fuel tank, especially since with the fuel module removed it becomes possible to clean the bottom of the gas tank from sediment.

The second thing it is advisable to do is to remove the pressure inside the fuel lines so as not to get a stream of gasoline in your face or into the interior of the car. This can be done using a measuring nipple on the fuel rail and a thin screwdriver.

To work you should prepare:

• curved and flat screwdrivers
• key for 17
• head for 7
• rags

Sequence of work

1. Raise the rear sofa.

2. We unscrew the two screws that hold the cover that blocks access to the fuel module, and disconnect the electrical connector from it.

3. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the two fuel lines connected to the pump, being careful not to lose the O-rings, and move them to the sides.

4. Newer models have clips on the pump; to remove them, press them and pull the tubes towards you.

5. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the 8 nuts that secure the pressure plate in a circle, holding the entire fuel module.
6. Carefully remove it through the hole in the gas tank, having first released the fuel level sensor float.

If there is a new assembled module in stock, install it in the reverse order. If it is necessary to replace individual components: the fuel pump itself, the level sensor or the primary filter mesh, we do this by disassembling the fuel module housing and removing the corresponding parts.

This procedure is unlikely to cause any difficulties - everything is quite obvious.

For a new type of fuel pump, you need a 10mm socket and a ratchet, similarly unscrew the ring in a circle and press out the fuel line clamps.

Ignition system and starter connection diagram

The VAZ wiring diagram includes a VAZ ignition system module, consisting of two high-voltage transformers and two electronic control units. They are in a durable plastic case, from which 4 high voltage wires are removed. They have a connection that creates a synchronous passage of a spark entering the cylinders of the power plant.

The VAZ 2114 ignition module consists of a two-spark coil and is of the block type. The ignition switch turns on a relay that sends a signal to the controller. The latter is the control element of the injection system for starting the fuel pump. It is connected to the cleaning filter with a flexible hose. After this, gasoline is supplied to the fuel rail, from which the fuel is supplied to the injectors.

The pinout of the VAZ ignition switch is in itself. It has an anti-theft device. When the lock socket illumination is on and the engine is running, the anti-theft locking device blocks the VAZ starter from re-engaging.

The starter connection diagram consists of:

• the starter itself;
• generator;
• rechargeable batteries;
• ignition switch;
• two relays.

The engine for the VAZ 2114 is also a four-stroke injector, in-line with an 8-valve unit. Its camshaft is at the top. Operates on gasoline fuel and is equipped with 4 cylinders. It is cooled with a special liquid solution. The engine compartment contains a motor located perpendicular to the direction of movement.

The VAZ wiring diagram has electronics that control the injection system. It operates at low voltage, so it can be damaged very easily by electrostatic discharge. To prevent this from happening, do not touch the circuit elements on the boards or the ECU plugs.

How to change a fuel pump

• We open the back seat, getting to the gas tank flap.
• Open the hatch and clean the surface from dirt.
• Disconnect the tubes and wires from the bulb.
• Unscrew and pull out the fuel flask.
• We disassemble it on the table, changing the fuel pump
• Let's put everything back together.

Further in our photo report there are more detailed instructions.

The fuel pump on this vehicle is located in the tank. To replace it, we will crawl under the back seat.

To recline the seat, you need to pull the part of the seat that is located on the side of the seat back.

The hatch for access to the fuel tank is located in the direction of the arrow. There are cuts in the silencer for free access to the tank.

We move the silencer aside and use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the gas tank flap cover.

Now we need to remove all the dirt around the fuel flask. We used air from the compressor and blew it out under low pressure, trying not to create dust in the car interior.

Now we can disconnect the fuel pipes and electrical connector. The tubes are removed by pressing on the plastic clips on the sides.

Unscrew the eight nuts securing the fuel flask.

We take the wires and tubes aside and pull out the fuel flask. It is necessary to prepare a cut canister or other similar container in advance, since the fuel flask will be filled with gasoline.

Now on the table we begin to disassemble the fuel flask and replace the fuel pump. First of all, use a screwdriver to pry up and remove the retaining ring shown in the photo.

We simultaneously press the three latches shown in the photo. and pull the top of the flask trying to disconnect it.

Disconnect all wires and electrical connectors shown in the photo. and pull out the inner part in which the fuel pump is located.

Now that the flask is disconnected we have access to the pump. Use a screwdriver to pry up and disconnect the coarse filter.