Replacing the crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ-2114 8 valves: photos and videos

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The crankshaft oil seal is far from the most reliable design in any car. Therefore, its replacement with an 8-valve VAZ 2114 is carried out quite often.

Camshaft drive diagram

In this case, the procedure differs depending on which oil seal we are talking about - front or rear. We will talk about each of them separately.

Crankshaft oil seal

Today we will talk in more detail about the crankshaft oil seal, a spare part that is designed to seal (seal - approx.) connections in this moving part of the engine, as well as prevent engine oil from leaking . Below, we will describe in detail how to replace this element as quickly as possible.

Signs of crankshaft oil seal failure

The very first and main sign of failure of the crankshaft oil seal is considered to be the loss of its tightness.

Oil leak due to leaky crankshaft oil seal

And if in the case of oil seals on other engine elements it doesn’t look so bad, then if there is a malfunction on the crankshaft, oil can leak from the system in liters per 1000 kilometers.

Main causes of wear

Wear and tear due to natural reasons due to expiration of service life.
Incorrect installation of the oil seal in advance can cause cracks on its surface.
Mechanical damage.
The material is not original, made in violation of production technologies.

Please note that with an increase in oil consumption, due to leaks of the crankshaft oil seal, traces of oil will certainly be observed under the car; they are clearly visible and will not leave any owner unnoticed.

Also think about the presence of oil seal leaks and slight slipping of the clutch. This effect can be observed due to oil getting on the clutch disc and basket located near the gearbox.

Necessary tools for work

The VAZ-2114 crankshaft oil seal is replaced in a garage or car service center. You can change it yourself if you have minimal plumbing skills and the necessary tools:

jack and reliable support for lifting the car and hanging the internal combustion engine;
wheel anti-roll bars;
set of socket heads from 10 to 27;
open-end and ring wrenches;
slotted screwdriver;
hammer;
container for draining used oil from the engine sump;
special graphite lubricant;
automotive sealant;
rags or wipes.

Repairs are best done by changing the engine oil and cleaning the crankcase. In this case, you will need a can of fresh oil, an engine sump gasket, an oil pump cover gasket, and a new front oil seal.

Important! Carry out the work on a lift or in an inspection pit. If they are absent, it is enough to raise the front part of the car as high as possible and install it on reliable supports, for example, cuttings of sleepers or cinder blocks. It is strictly prohibited to stand under a machine mounted on a jack.

Step-by-step process for removing the rear oil seal

If no special experience is required when replacing the front oil seal, then to work with the rear oil seal, an assistant and a more thorough study of the technical component of the car may be required.

When carrying out such work, it is necessary to do all the above points from 1-12.
Next, you need to move on to dismantling the gearbox and clutch.
When the clutch is removed, unscrew the four bolts that secure the flywheel, and then remove it.
Then, when access to the oil seal is open, you can dismantle the housing in which it is located, or replace it directly in it.
We remove the sealing ring from the place where it is fixed.

We install the new part and perform the entire assembly in the reverse order.

Upon completion of assembly, start the engine and pay attention to the presence of oil leaks at the places where they are installed.

Replacement process

If you have some auto mechanic skills, you can replace the front oil seal yourself.

The algorithm is as follows:

remove the protective crankcase and timing covers;
align the ignition marks so as not to disrupt the operation of the gas distribution mechanism;
remove the timing belt;
dismantle the pulley and remove the generator belt;
remove the crankshaft pulley (you will need a puller, do not forget to purchase it);
remove the oil pump (drain the oil first);
assess the condition of the oil seal (it may be “oaky” from time to time or, conversely, softened by oil);
Press in a new oil seal with a socket of the appropriate size.

Pressing in the front crankshaft oil seal

Replacing the rear oil seal is an extremely labor-intensive process, which is accompanied by checking the condition of important vehicle components - the crankshaft and clutch parts.

We strongly recommend changing the rear crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2114 at a normal car service center.

The process for replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal is as follows:

separate the engine and gearbox;
remove the clutch and flywheel;
pull out the old oil seal and press in a new one.

At the same time, we check the shaft for play, examine the condition of the clutch, and after assembling the engine, you should also make sure that the breather is open.

After replacement, observe the car at idle and make sure there are no leaks. For a while, try not to over-spin the engine. It takes time for the seals to “get used” to the temperature conditions. Due to high oil pressure in the system, they can be squeezed out again.

Causes of leakage. Determining the location of the leak

The reason for the leak is that the oil seal is skewed

An oil seal can leak for several reasons:

Natural wear and tear. No matter how carefully the elements of the crank mechanism (CCM) are adjusted to each other, the crankshaft still vibrates during rotation, which leads to wear on the inner surface of the oil seal. Because of this, it no longer fits tightly to the shaft and lubricant leaks out through the gap;
Loss of elasticity. This happens due to the rubber drying out, it becomes “tanned” and the tightness of the seal decreases;
Installation is skewed. Incorrect installation leads to the appearance of leaks through which lubricant under pressure leaks;
Low quality rubber element installed when replacing a leaking oil seal. There are many fake spare parts on the market and the likelihood of purchasing a defective product is high.

Since the oil seal is located in a place where inspection is not very convenient, the problem is judged by traces of oil under the car and severe contamination of the lower part of the engine. But it is worth noting that lubricant can also leak in other places - from under the pan gasket, oil filter. Therefore, before eliminating a leak, it is necessary to carefully inspect the lower part of the power unit in order to accurately determine the location of the leak.

This can be done on an overpass or inspection hole, after first dismantling the crankcase protection (if there is one). In the case where it is impossible to determine the location of the leak due to severe contamination, the bottom of the engine is cleaned, and then, after a short trip, everything is inspected again. Dust will stick to the leak site, which is used to determine the location of the leak. Having established that the oil is leaking due to a damaged or worn oil seal, you can begin replacing it. Note that although the front crankshaft oil seal leaks more often than the rear, it is much easier to replace it.

The technology for replacing this rubber element is the same for any engine, but the complexity of the work depends on the design features of the engine itself.

Analogues (manufacturers)

Of course, the manufacturer and many automotive experts recommend installing the original valve cover gasket, but, as practice shows, substitutes are often of higher quality and have a much longer service life.

So, let's look at which analogues of the original part are recommended for installation on a car:

Manufacturer's name	Catalog number	Cost in rubles
Glaser	X08964-00	300
Goetze	50-025881-00	750
Ajusa	56021200	1000
Trialli	GZ 101 7022	1500

As you can see, the cost of alternative gaskets is quite high, but as practice has shown, the service life of the parts is twice as long as the original.

Level overflow

As a rule, the distance between Min and Max on the dipstick is 1 liter of engine oil, and 1 cm is 300 ml. The last or even higher value is unlikely to be dangerous for the motor.

Yes, the pressure will increase slightly, but it is not critical, because when developing engines, a safety margin is always built into them. And some people specifically fill the oil above the maximum level when driving on roads with steep ascents and descents, so that the oil receiver does not catch air.

But if a significant overflow was allowed, for example, two or more times, then the upper oil level will reach the crankshaft, foaming will occur, the pressure will increase and the oil seal will squeeze out.

A similar thing can happen if the cylinder head gasket is punctured and coolant enters the lubrication system. The oil becomes gray-brown in color, its level in the crankcase rises, and then you already know what can happen.

Removal

4. We screw the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt into place and use a 17 mm

(on some cars
19 mm
) by turning the crankshaft clockwise, set the piston of the first cylinder to the lower position.

Tip: When unscrewing the nuts of the connecting rod caps, you can accidentally damage the oil level sensor, so it is advisable to remove it (see “Insufficient oil level sensor - check and replacement”).

14 mm socket wrench

unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover of the first cylinder.

6. Remove the connecting rod cover.

7. Having rested the hammer handle on the connecting rod, push it up.

8. Remove the piston assembly with connecting rod from the cylinder.

9. Remove the liners from the connecting rod and its cover.

Warning! When disassembling the connecting rod, do not press the bolts out of it.

10. Clamp the piston by the connecting rod in a vice.

11. Slightly spreading the ring lock, remove the upper compression ring.

12. Similarly, remove the lower compression ring.

13. Remove the oil scraper ring.

. and its expander.

Warning! The advisability of replacing the rings depends on the degree of wear of the cylinders (see “Piston and connecting rod - replacement”).

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On any car, crankshaft seals seal technical holes in the engine, on the one hand, preventing dirt from penetrating inside, and on the other, preventing oil leakage. Leaking oil seals manifests itself in oil leaks on the cylinder block housing from the timing belt side or the rear of the engine.

The main sign by which ordinary VAZ 2114 owners and illiterate servicemen “sentence” oil seals is an oil leak. Indeed, an oily sump and block on the timing side are a sign of a front oil seal leak, and leaks in the flywheel area are a sign of a rear seal leak. But there are two “buts”.

Signs of oil leakage through the front oil seal

Firstly, oil leaks can be caused by other reasons, and, secondly, leaking oil seals can be a consequence of a more serious malfunction.

Common causes of oil leaks around the seals include:

Oil pressure sensor or oil filter bracket: Oil may drip from them onto the drive and scatter around.

Leaking from the oil channel plug under the cylinder head casing.

Leaking from the camshaft seal.
A special feature of the VAZ 2114 with an 8-valve engine: the hole of the first manifold stud on the front side of the engine passes through the oil channel. When replacing the gasket on the inlet, this pin must be lubricated with sealant, otherwise a leak will occur.

Often problems with seals are symptoms of other problems. If the leak appears again soon after replacement, it may be due to poor quality consumables, or may be the result of the following problems:

The breather is clogged (important for VAZ 2114 engines with high mileage - more than 200 thousand kilometers), and the oil seal is squeezed out by crankcase gases. When replacing, it would be useful to remove the valve cover and clean the filter mesh.
The rings are stuck. Another reason for oil squeezing out through the oil seal. In this case, additional signs will be uneven compression and oil leaks from the dipstick.
If there is play in the camshaft, the oil seal can be squeezed out by the shaft itself when the clutch is pressed. One of the saddest cases: the solution is engine capital.

Another reason for a leak from the oil seal may be the filling of low-viscosity oil. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for oils for the VAZ 2114.

In any case, along with replacing the seals, it is better to check the condition of the components that may be associated with their leakage.

If you have some auto mechanic skills, you can replace the front oil seal yourself.

remove the protective crankcase and timing covers;
align the ignition marks so as not to disrupt the operation of the gas distribution mechanism;
remove the timing belt;
dismantle the pulley and remove the generator belt;
remove the crankshaft pulley (you will need a puller, do not forget to purchase it);
remove the oil pump (drain the oil first);
assess the condition of the oil seal (it may be “oaky” from time to time or, conversely, softened by oil);
Press in a new oil seal with a socket of the appropriate size.

Pressing in the front crankshaft oil seal

Replacing the rear oil seal is an extremely labor-intensive process, which is accompanied by checking the condition of important vehicle components - the crankshaft and clutch parts.

The process for replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal is as follows:

separate the engine and gearbox;
remove the clutch and flywheel;
pull out the old oil seal and press in a new one.

At the same time, we check the shaft for play, examine the condition of the clutch, and after assembling the engine, you should also make sure that the breather is open.

Camshaft drive diagram

In this case, the procedure differs depending on which oil seal we are talking about - front or rear. We will talk about each of them separately.

To perform this procedure on your VAZ 2114 car, you will need a minimum set of tools, which includes:

10mm socket;
10mm wrench;
Mandrel;
Screwdriver.

We pry it off with a screwdriver.
The replacement work is performed in the following sequence.

The oil pump is removed from the car. It is not difficult to do this, and it is quite possible to do it yourself.
Next, the oil seal is removed from the cover of this same oil pump. Here you will need a thin screwdriver, which can be used to pry the device and thereby remove it.
The new element is pressed in using a mandrel, the outer diameter of which should be about 41 millimeters. In this case, the working edge should be directed inward.
The oil pump is returned to its place.

It should be noted that the clutch discs may become oily due to a leak through the gearbox input shaft oil seal, or due to the rear crankshaft oil seal.

The smells of oil from the engine and transmission are different, so many experienced specialists can use the smell to determine which element is causing problems.

Changing the rear oil seal is actually somewhat more difficult than changing the front oil seal. But this does not take away the fact that it is still more than possible to do the work with your own hands.

Disassembled

Following the instructions step by step, replacing the crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2114 will become a fairly simple task for you, which will add to your experience in repairing a car yourself.

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery of your VAZ 2114.
Make notes on the location of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft, and then remove it.
Next, the rear shield of the clutch housing is removed from the guide bushings.
The next step is to remove the eight bolts that are responsible for securing the oil seal.
This will allow you to remove the holder.
The oil seal is pressed out of its holder.
The new element is installed in place of the old one until it stops. Here you will need a mandrel again. Its outer diameter is 99 millimeters. Press in the element so that its working edge points inward.
To make pressing easier, a chamfer is made on the seating edge of the element using a needle file. An alternative tool for bevelling is a small sanding wheel.
Now we change the gasket, which is probably torn on the holder. Even if the old gasket looks fine, we strongly recommend replacing it with a new one.
The gasket is glued with a special thick lubricant. This will ensure the strength of its retention, as well as additional tightness of the connection.
The working edge of the pressed-in oil seal is treated with regular engine oil, as is the case with the front one.
The crankshaft flange is subjected to similar processing.
The fasteners of the engine oil sump to the cylinder block will need to be loosened slightly. To do this, it is enough to make 2-3 turns on each of the 14 bolts that hold the crankcase.
When installing the holder, the working edge of the new oil seal is carefully tucked onto the crankshaft flange. Arm yourself with a wooden stick for this purpose, but do not use metal objects.
Retighten the holder bolts.
Screw back the engine crankcase mounting bolts.
Place the clutch housing rear shield back onto the guide bushings.
According to the previously marked places, mount the flywheel, gearbox and clutch in their place. To ensure that the flywheel mounting bolts have high quality adhesion and reliability, first apply sealant to their threaded part.

Location of rubber elements on the crankshaft

In the design of power plants, two oil seals are used on the crankshafts - front and rear. They both prevent lubricant from leaking out of the engine. The rear oil seal is installed on the end of the shaft to which the flywheel is screwed. Due to the fact that this end switch is presented in the form of a flange, the dimensions of the oil seal are quite large, with a significant layer of rubber. This ensures a considerable service life of the rubber element.

The front oil seal is located on the end of the shaft, which is used as a drive for systems and mechanisms of the power plant or auxiliary equipment. The rubber element is located behind the drive gear, which is mounted on the shaft end and secured with a key connection. The dimensions of this oil seal are smaller than the rear one. And this affects the resource of the element.

Due to the leak, oil gets onto the outer surface of the engine, causing it to become dirty. This also increases the consumption of lubricant, which must be replenished periodically. Leakage is especially dangerous for engines in which the timing belt is driven by a belt. Oil-based liquids have a negative effect on rubber elements. If oil gets in, the belt can delaminate and break, which is especially dangerous if the engine is “plug-in” (if the belt breaks, the pistons collide with the valves).

Replacing the front oil seal on a VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115

Note! Before replacing the oil seal, make sure that the problem is there and not caused by the crankcase ventilation system. It’s just that this system becomes dirty over time and oil begins to be squeezed out through the seals. We recommend that you read more about this topic in the article: “Cleaning the crankcase gas system on a VAZ 2114.”

Removal

First, you need to remove the timing belt from the pulleys (for instructions, see the publication: “Replacing the timing belt on VAZ vehicles”). Then, using two small screwdrivers, carefully pry off the crankshaft toothed pulley (photo 1). Behind you will find an oil seal; just pry it out with a screwdriver and remove it from its seat (photo 3). However, there is a metal key on the crankshaft (photo 2, indicated by the arrow). It is advisable to carefully pry it with a screwdriver and remove it, or make sure that it does not fall and get lost. The key keeps the pulley from turning; the part is important, so if you lose it, go to the auto store for a new part.)

Installation

The main thing is to lubricate the oil seal with the engine oil currently poured into the car engine. It is not the entire oil seal that needs to be lubricated, but only the working edge - the place where the oil seal sits on the shaft. Then take a small piece of pipe or a union head of a suitable diameter and, with their help, the oil seal is pressed inside (photo 4). After installation, thread the oil seal with a thin, but not too sharp, pencil. Check whether the part is installed well.

Note! During installation, do not make the wrong side, otherwise the seal will leak. The oil seal has a front one with a spring, indicated by the letter B, and a rear one. The front one should be tucked inward, and the rear one should be directed outward.

2. After the work has been done, put the pulleys in place, the keys, and also install the timing belt. Adjust the belt tension using the tension pulley and start the car. First of all, pay attention to the place where you installed the oil seal - there should be no leaks. Add oil to the car engine up to the MAX mark, drive for a while, and see if the oil goes away quite quickly. No? This means the oil seal is installed correctly and nothing is leaking through it.

Note! If after replacing the oil seal the leak does not stop, then either it was installed incorrectly or there is a problem in the lubrication system, because there is more pressure in it.

Additional video

We have attached video material on the topic of today's publication, we recommend that you read:

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