Signs of a broken starter solenoid relay

The starter solenoid relay supplies current to the starter motor and also pushes out the bendix. This means that the moment the starter starts to rotate, its bendix is pushed out. In fact, understanding the operation of the starter is not difficult. Today we will help you understand how the solenoid relay works, how to check this element and repair it.

Solenoid relay design and operating principle

In the starter, the solenoid relay engages the flywheel crown with the bendix. All work is based on the principles of electromagnetism. The core, which is made as a hollow tube, inside which the armature is located, is equipped with a wire winding. The current in the coil creates an electromagnetic field, as a result of which the armature enters the core. After the current stops flowing, the armature can move freely.

The starter retractor relay includes: housing; magnet with windings; anchor; contacts; return spring. The magnet in the relay is made in the form of a pair of coils - retracting and holding. The relay retractor coil is connected to the electric motor and the control terminal, but the holding coil is connected to the control terminal and is in contact with the housing. When power is applied to the control contact, magnetic induction occurs in the coil, which leads to the appearance of a magnetic field. As a result, the armature compresses the return spring. At the same moment, the bendix rotates, which connects the starter to the car battery. At the time when the contacts close, the retractor winding receives power from the “+” terminal, the production of current in the coil stops, but the armature is affected by the field of the holding coil, so it remains inside. When the vehicle's power unit starts, the power is cut off, causing the armature to return to its original position under the action of the return spring. The contacts open, which can cause the bendix to disengage.

Common solenoid relay failures

The main reasons for failure of the starter solenoid relay are as follows: Physical wear. Burnout of contact plates. Destruction of components. Winding combustion. How to determine that the solenoid relay has failed:

The engine starts, but the starter does not want to turn off, constantly rotating. At this time you hear a characteristic buzzing sound. The starter rotates after starting, but cannot start the engine. When the key in the ignition switch is turned to its original position, the starter click is heard, but it does not want to rotate. How to check the starter solenoid relay As mentioned above, the operation of the solenoid relay, as well as the starter itself, is based on the principle of electromagnetism. When voltage is applied to the windings, the relay acts on the armature. This, in turn, changes the position of the Bendix gear so that it engages with the flywheel ring. At the same time, the contacts close, providing voltage to the starter windings. In order for the car engine to start, all this must happen very quickly. The article was published in the Machines public page. If at least one of the elements does not work correctly, you will not be able to start the car. To check the starter relay, you do not need to remove this element from the car. Experts advise closing the contact bolts located on the back of the relay using a piece of wire or metal. As a result of this, you will ensure the supply of current to the starter windings. If this caused the starter to rotate, you can conclude that the starter is working normally, and the problem lies in the relay itself. If the retractor clicks and the starter does not turn, this indicates that the relay is probably working, and the cause of the breakdown must be looked for directly in the starter.

Repair of starter retractor relay

If you have come to the conclusion that the starter traction relay has failed, you need to repair it. We would like to note right away that in most cases it is much easier to replace this element than to restore its functionality. Many manufacturers produce non-separable relays in order to make this unit the most reliable. In such situations, you will simply have to replace the solenoid relay with a new one. If the starter in your car is equipped with a detachable relay, you can repair it yourself. Often the relay does not work for the following reasons: the mechanical drive has worn out and failed; a short circuit has occurred in the winding; “nickels” or contacts were burnt. Each of the above faults can be determined after disassembly. vk.com/cars.best True, to determine the integrity of the windings you will have to use an ohmmeter. When measuring the resistance between the ends of the wire and the body, this indicator should be at least 10 kOhm. Otherwise, the windings have shorted, so you will need to go to the store for a new relay.

Installation of a new or restored relay is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Many car enthusiasts at this stage have a problem, which is how to connect the starter relay. In order to avoid such troubles, we recommend that you first mark the disconnected terminals. Before installing the relay, be sure to thoroughly clean the contacts and degrease them.

Operating principle of the solenoid relay

Before moving directly to the malfunctions and methods for eliminating them, it will be useful for car owners to know the device of the starter retractor relay and how it works. It is immediately worth noting that the mechanism is a classic electromagnet , consisting of two windings (holding and retracting), a circuit for connecting it to the starter, as well as a core with a return spring.

When the ignition key is turned, voltage from the battery is supplied to the coils of the solenoid relay. This creates an electromagnetic field that moves the core located in its body. That, in turn, compresses the return spring. As a result of this, the opposite end of the “fork” moves towards the flywheel. In this case, the gear connected to the bendix is squeezed out until it engages with the flywheel ring. As a result of engagement, the contacts of the built-in starter circuit are closed. Next, the retracting winding is turned off, and the core remains in a fixed position with the help of a working holding winding.

Scheme of operation of the solenoid relay

After the ignition key turns off the engine, voltage to the solenoid relay stops supplying. The anchor returns to its original position. The fork and bendix, which are mechanically connected to it, disengage with the flywheel. Thus, a malfunction of the starter solenoid relay is a critical failure due to which it is impossible to start the engine.

Features of checking the performance of elements of the starting system of a car engine

After visual inspection of the condition of the starting system parts, they begin to dismantle the starter to test its components:

It is possible to determine how worn out the brush assembly is only after disassembling the starter housing. Despite the long service life of the brushes, they still wear out. At the same time, their development on some starter models does not allow the traction relay to be activated. In this case, the clicks it makes will not be heard.
Burning of the windings on the coils can be easily determined both visually and by the presence of a burning smell. Since it makes no sense to restore their functionality, you will have to replace the starter.
It is possible to perform a traction stress test without its housing. To do this, you need to close the two large terminals on the relay using a screwdriver, being careful not to catch the housing elements. The presence of problems with the retractor will be signaled by the beginning of shaft rotation. Note that one of the unpleasant consequences of this is the burning of the relay contact groups. Since they contain a special protective coating to prevent damage, it is not recommended to clean carbon deposits from them. In this case, only a complete replacement of the traction rod is indicated.

In addition to the procedures described above, it is necessary to pay attention to the ignition switch by checking the voltage in it. Often contact is lost in this node due to the coating of the wires with an oxide film and the formation of corrosion areas. To do this, it is enough to clean them, solder them, or replace them.

Starter solenoid relay diagram

Solenoid relay circuit

In addition to the previous point, we present to your attention a diagram of the starter retractor relay . With its help, it will be easier for you to understand the principle of operation of the device.

The solenoid coil of the relay is always connected to the negative side through the starter. And the holding winding goes directly to the battery. When the relay core presses the working plate against the bolts, and “plus” is supplied to the starter from the battery, then a similar “plus” is supplied to the “minus” output of the retractor winding. Because of this, it turns off, and the current continues to flow only through the holding winding . It is weaker than the retractor, but has sufficient strength to constantly hold the core inside the housing, which ensures continuous operation of the motor. The use of two windings allows you to significantly save battery energy when starting the engine.

Detailed instructions for replacing the retractor on a Lada Kalina:

After we have access to the starter, we disconnect all the power wires, one wire can be easily removed and the other two will need to be unscrewed.

We unscrew one with a ratchet with a 10mm head; in the picture you can see everything in more detail.

The second with a regular key for 13.

Now we proceed to unscrew the two bolts securing the retractor itself. Doing this is not very convenient, especially you will have to tinker with the bottom bolt; a thin-walled 8-mm socket and a ratchet will help.

Signs and causes of relay failure

External signs of a broken starter relay include the following:

When you turn the key in the ignition switch, no action is taken to start the engine, or starting is possible only after making several attempts.
After the engine starts, the starter continues to rotate at high speed. This can be heard by ear by the strong buzzing of the mechanism.

A malfunction in the relay is one of the reasons that the car does not start, and there may be several reasons for its breakdown:

failure (burnout) of the contact plates inside the relay (popularly called “nickels”), reduction in their contact area, “sticking”;
breakage (burning) of the retracting and/or holding winding;
deformation or weakening of the return spring;
short circuit in the pull-in or holding winding.

How to check the starter solenoid relay with a multimeter

If you find at least one of the listed signs, then the next step to fix the problem is to conduct a detailed diagnosis.

VAZ starter does not turn video

The starter in the design of vehicles ensures the start of the power unit. Therefore, when problems arise with starting, most car owners ask themselves: why did the starter stop turning and why does its retractor not click? Despite the fact that the operation of the engine starting device lasts only a few seconds, its breakdown completely paralyzes the operation of the car, since the engine can be started normally only with a pusher, although this is only possible with a manual transmission (manual gearbox), or with the help of a crooked starter (if it is provided for by the design).

You can determine the cause of a malfunction in the engine starting system and troubleshoot problems yourself, especially since this does not require complex diagnostic instruments and tools. But it will be impossible to diagnose the starter’s performance without measuring instruments, the most accessible of which is a multimeter.

How to check the solenoid relay

There are several methods for checking the solenoid relay. Let's look at them in order:

The operation of the relay can be determined quite simply - at the moment of startup, a click is heard produced by the moving core. This fact indicates the serviceability of the device. If there is no click, it means that the starter retractor relay does not operate. If the retractor clicks but does not turn the starter, then the likely reason for this is that the relay contacts are burnt.
If the solenoid relay is activated, but a peculiar rattling noise is heard, then this indicates a malfunction in one or both relay windings . In this case, the starter solenoid relay can be checked using an ohmmeter by measuring the resistance of its windings. It is necessary to remove the core and return spring from the housing, and then check the resistance between the windings and ground in pairs. This value should be within 1.3 ohms. After this, insert the core without a spring, close the power contacts and measure the resistance between them. This value should be 3.5 ohms (the value depends on the specific relay). If the measured value is lower than the indicated numbers, then we can talk about a short circuit in the circuit and failure of the windings.

Possible starter malfunctions

If the Lada Kalina does not start, the following typical malfunctions are possible:

If after starting the engine all the instruments go out, this means that there is no power supply. You should check the terminals and state of charge of the battery. If after starting the starter does not work, then you need to check its serviceability (the author of the video is Expert R).

It is better to start troubleshooting without removing the device from the car. First, use a screwdriver to connect the solenoid relay bolts at the top and bottom. As a result, the electric motor should start working, but without rotating the crankshaft. It should rotate freely, and there should be no extraneous sounds or noises.

After checking the electric motor, you need to remove the wire from the control terminal of the traction relay and bridge it and the upper bolt with a screwdriver. After switching on, the engine crankshaft should begin to rotate. If everything works fine, you need to look for the fault in the retractor circuit.

First you need to check the trigger relay located in the mounting block, replacing it with a known good element. If the starting device works, then you need to replace the faulty relay. Otherwise, you need to check the power circuit. To do this, insert a jumper into sockets 87 and 30.

Mounting block Kalina

When you turn the key ZZ, the engine should start, otherwise you should check with a test light whether 12V voltage is supplied to socket 30. One end of the test light should be touched to terminal 30, and the other should be connected to ground. The light should be on. Otherwise, damage to the current-carrying path may occur.

If the circuit is not damaged, we check the contact group 33 by connecting the ends of the test lamp to connectors 85 and 86. If, when starting the engine, the light comes on, this indicates that everything is in order with the contact group. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired.

Replacing the traction relay

The retractor is checked for serviceability by connecting its bolt located on top to the control terminal. When closed, the relay should operate. Otherwise, check the battery charging and the condition of its terminals. If the traction relay is broken, it should be dismantled and check whether the windings are working properly. If the relay is in working condition, you need to check the wear of the brushes.

If after starting the starter does not turn and the engine does not start the first time, then the traction relay needs to be replaced. It is possible that the reason is burnt contacts on the electric motor. If the device turns on but rotates slowly, you should check the voltage at the battery terminals with an ohmmeter. For successful startup, the voltage should not be lower than 9V. Otherwise, repairs are needed. The cause of the problem may be bushings, brushes, or the stator magnet may have fallen off.

If the starter spins but the crankshaft does not rotate, then the device requires repair. In this case, the following malfunctions are possible: the bendix rotates, the flywheel crown is weakened, the textolite gear of the gearbox is broken.

Repair of starter retractor relay

Worn relay contact plates

On many modern cars, the solenoid relay is made in a non-separable form. This is done for two reasons. First, this increases the reliability of the mechanism and its durability due to mechanical protection from external factors. The second is that automakers want to make more profit from the sale of their components. If your car has just such a relay, then the best solution in this case is to replace it. Write down the brand of the relay, its technical parameters, or better yet, take it with you and go to the nearest store or car market for a similar new one.

However, some car owners repair it themselves. But at the same time you need to know how to disassemble the starter solenoid relay . If the relay is collapsible, then it can be repaired. In the case of non-dismountable parts, repairs are also possible, but to a small extent. In particular, when burning “nickels”, improving and cleaning the contact. If one of the windings burns out or short-circuits, then such relays, as a rule, cannot be repaired.

For further work you will need a flat blade screwdriver, as well as a soldering iron, tin and rosin. Disassembling the relay begins with the fact that it is necessary to remove the core from it. After this, two are unscrewed that hold the top cover where the coil contacts are located. However, before removing it, it is necessary to unsolder the mentioned contacts. In this case, it is not necessary to solder both contacts . Usually, to get to the “nickels”, it is enough to unsolder only one contact and lift the cover on one side.

Disassembly and repair of the solenoid relay

Repair of the retractor relay VAZ 2104

Next, you need to unscrew the bolts holding the “nickels” from the top side and remove them. If necessary, they need to be reviewed. That is, clean them with sandpaper in order to get rid of carbon deposits. A similar procedure must be performed with their seats. Using a plumbing tool (it is best to use a flat blade screwdriver), clean the seat, removing dirt and carbon deposits. Reassembling the relay housing occurs in the reverse order.

Disassembly and assembly of a collapsible relay occurs in the same way. To do this, you need to unscrew the stud bolts and disassemble its body. This will give you access to the internal elements of the device. The audit work is carried out similarly to the above algorithm.

ZZ malfunctions

Most often, damage to the Kalina ignition switch is associated with its mechanical part. In this case, it is impossible to turn the key to the desired position. A malfunction does not arise, as they say, out of the blue. As a rule, frequent jamming of the key is observed over the course of several months, which is eliminated by rocking it in the cylinder.

Rarely, there are cases of failure of the electrical component of the Lada-Kalina ignition switch. Basically they come down to a lack of contact when turned on. This is typical only for locks with a long service life. True, there is another common reason for burnt contacts - the car owner himself.

Types of solenoid relays and their manufacturers

Let's briefly touch on the solenoid relays used on VAZ cars. They are divided into four types:

for non-geared starters of VAZ 2101-2107 (“Classic” models);
for non-geared starters of VAZ 2108-21099 models;
for VAZ gear starters of all models;
for AZD starter gearboxes (used in VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 models).

In addition, as mentioned above, they are divided into collapsible and non-collapsible. Older models are collapsible. New and old are interchangeable .

For VAZ cars, solenoid relays are produced by the following companies:

Plant named after A.O. Tarasov (ZiT), Samara, Russian Federation. Relays and starters are produced under the KATEK and KZATE trademarks.
BATE. Borisov Automotive and Tractor Electrical Equipment Plant (Borisov, Belarus).
Kedr Company (Chelyabinsk, Russian Federation);
Dynamo AD, Bulgaria;
“Iskra” A Belarusian-Slovenian enterprise whose production facilities are located in the city of Grodno (Belarus).

When choosing a particular manufacturer, it is necessary to take into account that the highest quality and most common brands are “KATEK” and “KZATE”. Also remember that if an AZD starter is installed on your car, then “native” relays manufactured at the same enterprise are suitable for them. That is, they are not compatible .

Results

The starter retractor relay is a simple device. However, its failure is critical , as it will not allow the engine to start. Even an inexperienced car owner with basic plumbing skills can check and repair the relay. The main thing is to have the appropriate tools at hand. If the relay is not removable, we still advise you to replace it, since, according to statistics, after repairs are completed, its service life will be short. Therefore, if the solenoid relay does not work in your car, buy a similar device and replace it.

The ability to start the engine by turning the ignition key from inside the car and without much physical effort can easily be considered one of the most significant achievements of designers in terms of improving the consumer qualities of a car. However, sometimes it happens that you cannot start the car with an electric starter. The reasons for such an unpleasant event are varied, but the list of the most likely among them includes a malfunction of the solenoid relay. A savvy car enthusiast is able to quickly localize and diagnose such a breakdown on his own, after which he can carry out repairs and restore the vehicle to normal operation without contacting a service center and with minimal financial costs. An assistant will be required to perform some of the checks.

Why won't the car start?

There are actually quite a few reasons why the motor does not turn on. Let us lean towards listing the most common factors relating specifically to the Lada Kalina, which the owners will be able to “cope” with.

The immobilizer is faulty. When the engine does not turn on using the ignition key, experts recommend checking this unit. This can be determined visually. In such a situation, when the device starts to operate with interruptions, a characteristic sound is heard or the lamps present here switch to a constant glow mode.

To independently eradicate this problem, you will first need to study in detail the features of the lamps, where the decoding of their operating modes is contained.

Here the owner needs to calculate:

after how many seconds the lamps start to light up;
how many outbreaks will occur;
what type of sound does the buzzer produce?

Having obtained the necessary information, you need to review the instructions and determine the nature of the problem that has arisen in order to subsequently eliminate it.

2. The starter does not turn in the Lada Kalina car. This is the second stage of the test, which should be resorted to if the immobilizer is working properly. The primary factor causing the lack of starter functionality, that is, the starter does not start and does not turn, is a discharged battery.

This will be indicated by the absence of lights on the dashboard. If the battery is not completely discharged, the lamps will glow, but the starter will not be able to turn the flywheel due to lack of power. To finally determine a weak charge, turn on the headlights (high beam) and observe the intensity of the light flux.

If the glow is weak, we detect a discharge and the need to recharge the battery.

3. Current leakage in the wiring of the LADA Kalina starter. To check the switching and the level of power supplied to the starter assembly, you will need to use a voltmeter. We connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the starter, and connect the black wire to the ground of the car. We look at the tester screen.

If the voltage is 12 Volts, then we ascertain the serviceability of the wiring and the correctness of the connection. When the screen does not display the value of the measured parameter, we are inclined to visually check the integrity of the wiring and replace it (sometimes by cleaning areas of oxidation).

It would also be a good idea to check that the fuse is working properly.

4. Poor quality fuel. When using fuel with insufficient quality standards, the spark plugs are systematically “flooded”, as a result of which the engine “refuses” to function normally.

The defect manifests itself especially clearly in frosty weather, since the resulting condensate “clogs” the fuel filter component. To avoid such an unpleasant situation, experts recommend adding purified alcohol to the fuel in winter.

The most effective measure would be to purchase fuel only from trusted gas stations that care about their reputation and are not inclined to sell substandard fuel.

If you accidentally refuel with low-quality fuel, it must be drained as soon as possible, after which you should replace the filter and clean the injectors on a special stand.

5. Malfunction of the electronic engine control module (or ECU). It is necessary to resort to checking the serviceability of the designated unit when the above reasons, if the starter does not start and does not turn, do not appear in a particular car.

In terms of its design, the module is a fairly reliable device; moreover, it is protected from external atmospheric factors. Sometimes owners themselves provoke the failure of the ECU, for example, by spilling some liquid on its surface.

Also, the source of module malfunction can be leaks from the radiator of the interior heating system, since this unit is not reliable and is also located in close proximity to the computer.

New Lada: How to remove a panel on a Kalina without special skills

6. If the unit does become unusable, it will not be possible to repair it. Replacement will be a very expensive procedure, since the price of a new electronic device is quite considerable. In addition, you will have to pay a considerable amount for the service provided by the service center. This unpleasant situation can be avoided if you check the integrity of the radiator at sufficient intervals and handle the moisture-sensitive electronic module fairly carefully.

Wiring diagram Kalina

Replacing front pads Kalina

Front struts Kalina

Signs of relay failure and their causes

The relay fails due to mechanical wear and jamming, burning of contacts, breaks in current-carrying circuits. The following indicates a malfunction of this unit:

when trying to start the engine, the starter spins without turning the engine crankshaft;
an attempt to start the engine is accompanied by a characteristic click without rotation of the starter, or the starter does not develop the speed required for starting;
After the engine starts running, the starter does not turn off and again operates with a characteristic high-pitched sound.

Reasons for starter relay failure:

breaking the current transmission circuits to the pull-in and holding windings;
the return spring has weakened;
burnt contacts;
the winding is damaged;
destruction of the hull.

Summarizing

It is advisable that the starter spins the engine crankshaft during an attempt to start it for no more than 10 seconds, then the device must be given a minute pause. Failure to comply with this rule will, at best, lead to a discharge of the power source, and at worst, it will completely disable the starter. Only replacing it can save the situation, since not every auto electrician will undertake the task of rewinding burnt windings, since it is not always possible to perform this procedure efficiently. In addition, the cost of this service is comparable to the cost of a new element.

The wiring diagram for hatchbacks 2112 is a unique thing in itself. In order for voltage to appear on the solenoid relay, the following parts must be in good working order: the ignition switch, the ECU unit and two more relays - the main and additional ones. Some cars do not have an additional relay, which can be considered good luck. But, if when you turn the key on a VAZ-2112 the starter does not turn, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. A broken immobilizer code can also cause problems. The last malfunction can be cured by replacing the ECU or disabling the immobilizer. Well, let's look at something simpler.

Checking the relay without dismantling the starter

Checking the functionality of the solenoid relay at the first stage does not require disassembling and dismantling the starter:

Visually check the absence of breaks in the connecting wires to the relay.
After turning the ignition key to the “Start” position, a characteristic click should be heard.
If there is a click and the starter does not start, there may be a malfunction of the lock or its contacts.
To check the serviceability of the lock, remove the relay wire that connects it to the lock. Then, using a screwdriver, this terminal is short-circuited to the battery terminal (the operation is equivalent to bridging the lock). If the engine starts, the cause of the failure is the relay.

DIY mechanism repair

If the mechanism does not work, it must be removed. To do this, you need an open-end wrench set to “13”.

The removal procedure consists of the following steps:

First, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
Then we dismantle the air filter.
Next, disconnect the traction relay control wire.
Now you need to disconnect the power cable. To do this, move away the protective rubber cap, under which there is a positive wire.
Then unscrew the nut that secures the power cable.
Disconnect this wire, as well as the wire located nearby.
Next, unscrew the nuts with a “13” wrench that secure the starter. Two are located on top, and the third can be felt with your hand below.
After unscrewing all the nuts, you can remove the device from the studs.

Diagnostics without removing the starter using a multimeter

To do this, use a multimeter (tester) to first sequentially measure the voltage at the terminals of the battery, disconnected from the vehicle’s on-board network. It is approximately 12.7 V. If the device readings are less than 12 V, the battery is considered to be severely discharged and is not suitable for further testing.

Next, restore the normal connection of the wires and measure the voltage at the battery terminals and relay contacts. Compared to the previous case, it changes by no more than 0.1 V and will be equal at both control points. Turn the key to the start position. The voltage at the relay contacts should not fall below 12 V. Otherwise, the connecting wires are most likely faulty; it is possible that one or more contacts in the current flow circuit have burnt out.

Operating principle and types of starters

When this mechanism operates, battery electricity is converted into mechanical energy. When the microcontacts of the electric ignition are closed, the starter relay contacts the clutch of the traction relay winding. When the anchor moves into the retractor housing, the bendix pushes out from there, and engagement occurs with the gear at the end of the flywheel.

The armature moves to the end where the contacts close, electricity goes to the starter motor winding. The self-start shaft begins to rotate, the car starts. The faster the flywheel rotates, the sooner the bendix disengages from the ring, and the return spring sets it in place.

As soon as the key in the ignition switch returns to its original position, the current stops flowing to the starter and the car stalls.

Checking with the starter removed using a multimeter

This test of the solenoid relay allows you to very accurately perform internal diagnostics and determine the condition of the windings and contacts.

Dismantling the starter, depending on the make of the car, is carried out in various ways. For VAZ 2110, this procedure is carried out from below from the pit. Before unscrewing the fasteners, remove the wires (it is better to mark the terminals so as not to confuse them during assembly); you may need to remove the crankcase protection.

To begin with, voltage is applied from the battery to the body and terminals of the relay; operation is accompanied by a characteristic click and visible movement of the rod.

Further checks are carried out using a multimeter, which is switched to resistance measurement mode and the range of 200 Ohms is selected.

Video: Checking the starter removed from the car

First, check the serviceability of the retractor and retention coils. To do this, one of the probes is connected to ground, the second touches the contacts in succession. The device readings are 2 ohms. Deviation of the device readings from the specified value is a sign of a break or short circuit. To check the power contacts, remove the core from the relay body and remove the return spring, after which the core is inserted back. The core rod is pressed against the table with a certain force and the resistance between the contacts is replaced. The resistance is approximately 1.5 ohms.

Discharged battery

Also, quite often a starter malfunction can be confused with a discharged battery. If the starter on your car does not rotate the engine, but only clicks of the solenoid relay are heard, then the battery is most likely discharged. The sound that the starter makes when the battery is discharged can be heard in the video.

Starter sound when battery is dead

How to replace the starter on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119?

Removal: 1) At the very beginning of the operation, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, because the starter is an electrical device and if you work with it and voltage is applied to it, you may burn out the wiring or everything on it its insides will burn and thus it will become completely unusable. (For information on how to disconnect the minus terminal from the battery, see “here in this article” in the first paragraph)

Note! By the way, using a wrench or a screwdriver (In general, anything can be used, but it must be metal and the handle must be insulated with electrical tape), if you bridge the bolt and the starter terminal as shown in the video below (the minus wire must be connected to the battery), then you your car will start, but often you don’t need to do this only in extreme cases!

2) Then you will need to remove the mudguard from the engine, to do this, climb under the bottom of the car and you will see two mudguards there (Right and Left), but if you have a crankcase protection, then you will have to remove it completely, so when you get To access both mudguards, you will need to remove only the left one (In the direction of travel of the car), to do this, using a wrench, first unscrew the two bolts that secure it to the body spar (see photo 1), then unscrew four more bolts, two of which are held together both parts of the mudguard are interconnected (these bolts are indicated by the letter A), and the other two fasten the left mudguard to the body cross member (they are indicated by the letter B).

Note! If you don’t want to mess around with the bottom, then read the article entitled: “Replacing the air filter housing on the Lada Kalina”, it will show how the housing can be removed (Remember we said earlier that you can also replace the starter on top, but you just need to remove it to This is the air filter housing which is located above!

3) Now get close to the starter itself and remove the rubber boot (Indicated by a red arrow), which covers the minus terminal (It is indicated by a blue arrow), so when the cover is removed, pick up a wrench and completely unscrew the nut that holds the minus terminal in one place and does not allow it to oscillate, and after that, taking your hand by the block of wires (Indicated by the green arrow), pulling it, disconnect it from the plus terminal on which it is located.

Note! Move the block and the negative terminal itself away from the starter so that they do not interfere with its removal, and after moving it away, take a socket wrench or just a wrench in your hands and use it to unscrew the two bolts (fastening bolts are indicated under the number 2) that secure the starter ( Indicated by number 1) to the car engine (Number 3)!

Installation: Install the new starter in its place in the reverse order of removal, but when you install it, pull it by hand and make sure that it is well tightened, because it should not dangle, and also check whether all the wires are well connected to it, if so Even if one wire has a bad contact, the car is unlikely to start with the key.

Note! By the way, if your negative terminal is too dirty or covered with rust, then clean it with sandpaper!