The starter (starting device) is designed for the initial rotation of the crankshaft for the purpose of subsequently starting the engine. Minimum starter power 3.0 kW. The jump starter is a source of DC current that draws from the battery.
The battery current is not sufficient to drive the crankshaft. Pre-installed brushes and winding increase the current by 3–4 times.
On cars of the Hyundai Accent family until 2000, starting devices were installed without a gearbox, after the 2000s with a gearbox.
- With gearbox (gearbox): characterized by lower consumption of electrical energy and current. The unit rotates the crankshaft even with a minimum battery charge. However, with prolonged use of the gear starter, breakdowns and malfunctions of the rotation gear are possible.
- Without gearbox: direct acting starter. The design is quite simple, unlike the previous analogue. The part can easily be repaired on your own, without turning to workshops for help. After turning the key in the ignition switch, current is supplied to the electromagnetic switch. Which provides instant grip with the flywheel. This class of starting devices is more durable than gear ones, the probability of breakdown is half lower in comparison with its analogue.
The main disadvantage of a starting device without a gearbox is that it operates unstably at low temperatures.
Problems with the starter, ways to solve them on a Hyundai Accent
Conventionally, all faults are divided into mechanical and electrical according to the nature of their origin.
Mechanical
- Wear of roller bearings;
- Poor fixation of fasteners;
- Deformation, chipping of flywheel teeth;
- Anchor wedge;
- Deformation of the retractor relay;
- Sticking of contacts on the board due to overheating, prolonged start-up of current;
- Reverse spring sag (return);
- Wear of the overrunning clutch, bendix.
Electrical breakdowns
- Loose fit of brushes, wear, chipping;
- Open circuit in the traction relay, the control unit does not turn when current is supplied, the crankshaft does not rotate, the fuel pump does not pump fuel into the system;
- The commutator plates are worn;
- Damage to the armature winding;
- Short circuit on the armature plates;
- Contacts, terminals are oxidized;
- The battery is completely discharged, the car does not start;
- Broken power cable in the area from the steering column to the starting device.
Removing the starter Hyundai Accent since 1999 Hyundai Accent
The starter is attached to the clutch housing
1 – bolt securing the starter and the negative terminal of the battery, tightening torque 9.8–16 N/m; 2 – starter;
3 – starter mounting bolt, tightening torque 26–33 N/m.
Work to remove the starter must be carried out from under the car, removing the engine protection.
1. Disconnect the negative battery.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the starter
3. Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the nut securing the power cable
4. Remove the power cable terminal from the starter solenoid relay.
5. Use a 14mm socket to unscrew the two fastening bolts (the lower bolt also secures the tip of the ground wire)
6. Remove the starter from the socket.
Starter internals
1 – front cover; 2 – front bushing; 3 – cover; 4 – bolt; 5 – traction relay solenoid; 6 – plunger; 7 – spring; 8 – gasket; 9 – lever; 10 – holders; 11 – spring; 12 – plug; 13 – washer; 14 – thrust ring; 15 – stopper; 16 – overrunning clutch; 17 – rotor; 18 – washers; 19 – stator; 20 – brush holder; 21 – back cover; 22 – rear bushing; 23 – bolt; 24 – screw.
Guys, why not cite a reprint from the literature here. Have you actually been under the car, have you actually removed the starter from the car with your own hands (in particular, from the H-Accent)? Device and mat. I already know some of it without you. I need advice from someone who has actually encountered the problem of removing the starter from the engine
to viled06: But you climb under the car with a camera and make your own. We will be happy to see how this prevents the starter from removing the gearbox.
to Messir: Is it hard to believe without a photo? I'm not having fun here.
to Messir: I recognize the posted photos from an illustrated book for Accent, but in reality the bolt with the “mass” tip could not even be unscrewed (can’t get close), and the other bolt is not even visible at all
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Originals, analogues, articles and prices
| Article / name / OEM | Price, rub.) |
| STARTER | |
| BOSCH 0 986 025 720 | From 6200 |
| 0 986 CR1 751 | —/— |
| 0 986 CR1 808 | —/— |
| F 042 200 052 | —/— |
| KAVO PARTS EST-3005 | From 5700 |
| NIPPON PIECES H521I02 | From 5500 |
| VALEO 438098 | —/— |
| —/— 455964 | —/— |
| VALEO 600258 | —/— |
| WAI 17288N | From 6100 |
| SANDO 6035106.0 | From 6400 |
| 6035106.1 (manual transmission) | —/— |
| 6035115.0 (manual transmission) | —/— |
| 6035237.0 | —/— |
| 6035115.1 (automatic transmission) | —/— |
| 6035105.0 (automatic transmission) | —/— |
| Tagaz ES54535 | From 5800 |
| COMPONENTS | |
| Traction relay ERA 227660 | From 650 |
| ERA 227787 | —/— |
| HOFFER 6646057 | —/— |
| 6646127 | —/— |
| MEAT & DORIA 46057 | From 500 |
| —/— 46127 | —/— |
| Carbon brush ERA 233009 | From 150 |
| ERA 233091 | —/— |
| Drive ERA 225181 | From 700 |
| —/— 225240 | —/— |
*check prices at the time of purchase from an authorized dealer.
Disassembly
The removed starting unit is disassembled in the following order:
- Using a ratchet with a 13mm head, unscrew the nut connecting the solenoid relay and the starter via the electrical line;
- then use a curved screwdriver to tighten the screws securing the release lever to the motor housing;
- disconnect the traction together with the anchor and spring;
- twist the coupling bolts from the rear cover of the starter - head 8-10;
- remove the screws of the cover securing the brush holder;
- halve the device - disconnect the electric motor with the armature and brush assembly from the front part with the fork, washer, and rubber seal;
- use an open-end wrench to knock down the limit washer and the locking ring on the drive;
- take out the bendix.
Next, part of the electric motor is disassembled. The brush assembly is removed, the armature is separated from the magnetic stator.
Replacing and installing a starter on a Hyundai Accent
Necessary materials: tools, rags, lubricant, set of heads, components for the starter, gasket repair kit. If natural light is not enough, it is worth installing an additional light source.
- We install the Hyundai Accent on the inspection hole, block the rear row of wheels with shoes, and activate the parking brake. Remove the terminals from the battery;
- Unscrew the nut and remove the power terminals from the starter board. We unscrew the fasteners and remove the PU from the slots.
Subsequent actions depend on the decision: install a new starter or repair the old one. It is cheaper and more rational to restore the old one, but provided that there are no cracks or damage to the body.
Factory recommendations
The manufacturer does not recommend repairing the starter yourself, since it believes that this should be done by specialists who are trained in this. Although, it is possible that many garage repair specialists do an excellent job without special training provided by the manufacturer.
Thus, they admit that anyone can repair the Hyundai Accent starter if they wish, if they have the tools and hands. Although, there are situations when it is worth contacting a specialized station, since it is impossible to diagnose the cause of the malfunction and breakdown.
Bulkhead
In order to properly sort out the starter, in addition to tools, you need to prepare a number of essential things - fine sandpaper, chrome paint, solvent or gasoline. If there is a suspicion of wear of the internal elements, then either a ready-made repair kit or spare parts are purchased separately. In particular, bushings, brushes, bendix - depending on what exactly has gone bad.
The body is washed in gasoline on both sides. If there is a lot of dirt, it is hard, it will be better to clean it off with a knife or screwdriver first. Treat rusty areas with a brush. Be sure to work on the anchor manifold. It needs to be sanded and the grooves between the slats cleaned. Soft wire is suitable for this - never a needle, since it is hard and makes the edges of the grooves sharp. This will cause the starter brushes to wear out faster.
By bushings
To remove the bushings you will need an M12 tap. It is screwed forcefully into the old rolling bearing, and a plug pops out from the back of the cover. This makes it possible to knock out the worn part.
The new bushing is inserted through a soft wooden spacer. You need to hit with a hammer from above - accurately, carefully. An old bushing is used as a frame. The part should be settled completely.
The bushings should be lubricated with a thin layer of special Liqui Moly Thermoflex or Litol-24. This is a good composition that can withstand a temperature range from -40 to +140 degrees Celsius. Other lubricants should not be used, including graphite or for CV joints. Their temperature performance indicator is much lower - from -20 to +90°.
Sometimes you have to modify the bushings, even if they were purchased to fit. The fact is that a perfect match is rarely ensured - unless these are original spare parts. Because of this, the sleeve has to be shortened by 5 mm or more. This is easily done with a file. The bead is also filed down a little so that the plug fits exactly. You should always compare a new part with an old, dismantled bushing. Refinement of elements also involves sanding them with fine abrasive paper 500 grit. In this way the outer diameter is adjusted.
| Kostyanich | In the 2004 Hyundai Accent, I replaced the original starter with a cranked bendix with an AMDEL211. The designated amd worked for exactly two years and became jammed. I returned the restored original starter to its place. If something happens again, the choice will no longer be in favor of AMD. |
| Andreich | I have seen in various topics and on the Internet that they are focusing on high-power gear starters (up to 1.4 kW). I tried to find the exact model of car it fits, its markings or part number (like some kind of Mitsubishi), but I couldn’t find it. Even those who installed it say that they did it in the service, and that they were definitely not busy. Does anyone have any information on this issue??? Here's what we managed to find out through joint efforts: For manual transmission: AMD - AMDEL219 - 1.2 kW (Korea) ATS - ATSJS628 - 1.2 kW Unipoint - STR3002 - 1.4 kW (Taiwan (China)) Unipoint - STR3556 - 1.2 kW (Taiwan (China)) Wai - 2-1174-MI - 1.2 kW (Taiwan (China)) Krauf - STM0628 - 1.2 kW (China) ASHIKA - 003C126 - 1.2 kW (Japan) Cargo - 110811 — 1.2 kW (Germany) Dexel — XST6026 — 1.2 kW (Bulgaria) NIPPARTS — J5215022 — 1.2 kW (Netherlands). There are other models, but the choice was made in favor of inexpensive models. For automatic transmission: Wai 2-1178-MI -1.2 kW (Taiwan (China)) Unipoint — STR3053 — 1.4 kW (Taiwan (China)) Unipoint — STR3555 — 1.2 kW (Taiwan (China)) AMD — AMD.EL226 - 1.2 kW (Korea) KRAUF - STM1004 - 1.2 kW (China) Unipoint - STR3104 - 1.6 kW (Taiwan (China)). |
| Electrophase | I bought a nipparts gear starter. Disassembled. All new. I wanted to lubricate the gearbox, but it turned out to be lubricated; I wanted to use a screwdriver to test the strength of the plastic gears of the gearbox, but they turned out to be metal. Installed, works well, starts quickly, the startup sound is very pleasant. |
| Amo | Unipoint - China 50/50 quality. Krauf - average quality Chinese-German. ASHIKA - Italy is a piece of the Japanparts concern, maybe average or bad. DEXEL - Bulgarian China, poor quality. NIPPARTS - large packer, can put anything, lottery. |
| Romance163 | Amd 218 I can say that it has become easier to start, the sound remains the same. |
| Lucas8989 | I changed the Bendix, installed AMD, it lasted for 2 months and that’s it! |
| Romance163 | At -15 my accent wouldn't work. I bought a gearbox krauf and at -15 it feels much better. |
| Krasavin 661 | I took an AMD starter. The starter sound is simply excellent. I don’t regret at all that I took this particular starter. I would recommend installing this starter. At sub-zero temperatures it copes with its duties perfectly. |
| Blake | A Nipparts starter was purchased. It spins much more vigorously. And now I can say with confidence that starting in the cold has become much easier. |
| Aspid | They also say that you can put wings on a car, but no one knows the partner. Everyone who installed it had it done at the service center, they don’t even know what kind of roofing felts they plugged in from YAK or from TU. |
| Zhorra | Well, this is about the starter for an automatic transmission (and even then there is not enough information), but I would like to know for a manual transmission. I would like to hear exact models and desks from people who installed them, and everything fit without alterations. And you just have to feel sorry for the “clever people” who write about wings and don’t know the purpose of the gearbox in the starter! Here I had a basin 2110, there was a 1.55 kW gear starter, this is just right for the Russian winter, in -33 frost it turned like a clockwork for about 10-20 minutes (even if the car didn’t start, it was probably only possible with the starter itself on go to work And our starter is 0.9 weak, while the Americans generally have 0.8((((. |
| Lisdenius | I agree with what was said above, it was a 12 - it started at -35 the second or third time, but the accent refused |
| Dark Jones | I myself want to change the starter for an automatic transmission and am looking for information: it is not clear why the same part number from different manufacturers may or may not be suitable, and the difference between an automatic transmission and a manual transmission is also not clear - the engines are the same. |
| The emphasis is on | The very concept of the word reducer means to reduce. The principle of operation of the gearbox is familiar to everyone: a small star turns a large one (as an example, a mountain bike has a small star on the pedals, a large one on the rear wheel; if you turn it too hard, the wheel can turn even on asphalt). The starter is practically unchanged, the power is increased, and the star is directly installed on the starter armature. I don’t understand why it’s called gearbox. It should be called a high power starter. |
| Gray52 | A gear starter is needed!! Inside there is a planetary gear (at least it was like that on the top ten). There are about five stars inside, or even more (I don’t remember exactly). And in ours, just one star stands directly on the shaft. The rotation speed of the electric motor of a gear starter is much higher, because The gearbox reduces the speed of rotation of the output shaft. |
Grinding, noise when starting, does the engine not start immediately?
As it turned out, the reason is a worn-out bendix, we will change it ourselves, but I’ll tell you how on the My-Elantra.ru website, no service is needed. It will take about 30 minutes - 1 hour and then, roughly speaking...
What is needed to replace the Bendix
To change the Bendix to the Hyundai Elantra HD (and not only) - you need to remove the starter; for DIY repairs we will need:
- wrench "8" (preferably a head or a cap) - for unscrewing the studs;
- key “10” - to remove the terminal from the battery, as well as the air intake;
- key “12” - needed to remove the power, positive wire from the starter;
- socket wrench “14” - for unscrewing the starter from the gearbox;
- Phillips screwdriver - for removing the retractor coil;
- rags (may be useful);
- Bendix itself ASIN (ASIN.EL2313) 3613911140 or similar, they gave me from Accent...
Procedure
! First you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery (using the key to “10”)!
Next, we proceed to remove the air intake, it is held in place by two bolts (No. 1, No. 2 in the photo), unscrew them with a key “10”. Here is a photo - I have removed the battery (this is for another article):
Disconnect the coolant return pipe (the photo shows the mounting locations for this pipe) and move it to the side:
Then we disconnect the cooling fan chip:
Then we move the plastic clamps of the fan housing and remove it from the engine compartment. These are the fasteners:
It was difficult for me to remove the fan - the upper coolant pipe was in the way, but it still worked:
Here are all the fastenings:
Then, using a 14-point socket wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the starter to the gearbox:
We turn the starter more conveniently towards us. We disconnect the solenoid relay chip and unscrew it with a socket wrench to “12” - power “plus”:
Now we take it out... At first it may seem that there are a lot of “extra” wires getting in the way, but it’s quite easy to take it out, since the fan has been removed and it’s quite spacious...
