Operating principle and temperature characteristics of the device
The operating principle of the engine cooling radiator fan switch-on sensor is based on the difference in the linear expansion of metals. When the coolant heats up, the bimetallic plate of the device changes its position. At a certain moment, the contact group closes. A signal is transmitted to turn on the fan. In some sensors, when the engine overheats, the circuit breaks.
Depending on the model, the sensors have different temperature response limits. So, to turn on the fan of the VAZ 2114-2115, a temperature of 102-105 ° C is required. The shutdown signal comes when the engine temperature drops to 85-87°C. When choosing a new sensor for his car, the car owner should focus on the old device. In the absence of the original, previous device, the necessary information can be obtained from special catalogs.
Most modern fan control systems do not have sensor limits. It does not operate in relay mode, but constantly transmits information about the engine temperature to the electronic control unit. The ECU itself sets the limits for turning the fan on and off. Changing the operating range will require brain reprogramming.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the VAZ-2114 heater motor
Cooling fan does not work
To force the air flow in the interior heating system, a fan driven by an electric motor is used. Thanks to this fan, the heater's operating efficiency increases.
Of the entire stove design, the fan is the most complex element, since it uses an electric motor. The electric motor itself is a direct current motor with excitation from permanent magnets. Despite its structural simplicity, the motor gradually wears out and stops working or functions incorrectly, which affects the performance of the interior heater.
Causes of malfunction
Note that the reason that the fan does not turn on is problems with the power circuit. Oxidation of wiring contacts, blown fuse, faulty resistor - all this leads to the cessation of operation of the electric motor. Therefore, if it does not turn on, first of all you should check the components of the power circuit. Common problems with the fan motor are the occurrence of extraneous sounds during operation - squeals, rattling, interruptions in operation - spontaneous stopping, difficult starting, etc.
The reason for the appearance of third-party sounds:
- Deterioration in the landing bushings into which the electric motor rotor is installed, lack of lubrication in them. Because of this, the rotor becomes loose during operation, which creates increased vibrations and rattling, and “dry” friction is accompanied by squealing.
- Interruptions in operation are caused by critical wear of the graphite brushes and contact plates of the rotor. Because of this, the brushes and plates cannot make normal contact with each other, which leads to problems in the operation of the fan motor - it does not spin up when turned on and may stop spontaneously.
Troubleshooting the electric motor of the stove is a problematic process and not always advisable; it is easier to purchase a new fan and replace it.
Video: Repairing the VAZ 2114 stove motor
How to replace a heater motor
Due to the fact that the fan is fixed on the heater housing and is accessible from the engine compartment, replacing the VAZ-2114 heater motor is a simple process and does not require disassembling the interior heating system and draining the coolant. Therefore, you can replace the fan yourself, without seeking help from a service station.
To replace the motor, you will need screwdrivers and a 8-10 wrench from the tools. The algorithm for dismantling the heater fan on a VAZ-2114 is as follows: 1. We turn off the power to the on-board network by removing the “positive” terminal from the battery.2. In the passenger compartment, on the driver's side, behind the pedal unit, we find the fan power wires - black (“ground”, pressed with a nut to one of the bolts) and blue (“plus”).
3. Unscrew the ground nut, find the blue wire connector and disconnect it.4. Open the hood.5. Remove the fan casing with the filter installed in it. To do this, unscrew the 4 fastening screws.
6. Unscrew the fastening screws of the air intake grille installed near the glass. Remove the grille.7. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the fan housing.
8. Using a “pull” motion, remove the body from the support.9. Rotate the body 90 degrees. and remove it from the niche.
Further actions depend on what exactly was purchased for replacement - the assembly with the housing or just the electric motor with the impeller. If a fully assembled structure is available, we install a new element using the reverse technology to that described above.
Fan disassembly
In the case where there is a motor with an impeller, we disassemble the fan housing. To do this, remove the foam seal from the outlet socket, then remove the housing clamps, after which it will split into two halves.
We extract the email. motor, for which we unfasten the spring clamps of the motor cover, remove this cover and remove the electric motor. the engine together with the impeller from half the housing. The electric motor is replaced only assembled with the impeller, and it is not recommended to disconnect them so as not to disturb the alignment. When assembling, be sure to stick a foam rubber seal around the perimeter of the outlet socket, otherwise the air flow will dissipate due to the cracks, which will reduce efficiency of the stove. If the electric motor of the stove made a strong squeal during operation, you don’t have to change the electric motor, just disassemble the fan and put grease in the bushings. But these measures will help eliminate the squealing for a short period of time and ultimately the stove motor will have to be replaced.
Connection diagram for the fan switching sensor in injection engines
Unlike carburetor cars, where the sensor directly closes and opens the cooling fan circuit, in injection engines the device operates only with an information signal. After processing the received data, the ECU sends a control action to the fan relay installed on the radiator. The main advantage of this scheme is the possibility of emergency operation of the cooling system in the event of a loss of communication with the sensor or its failure. The ECU can also adjust the engine operating mode by influencing the injectors.
To determine where the fan switch sensor is located, you need to pay attention to the thermostat. In injection engines they are located next to each other. In some car models, wires go from the sensor to the dashboard to indicate the status of the device or to display the current coolant temperature.
VAZ-2114 cooling fan does not work, injector does not turn on
Replacing the radiator of the VAZ 2114 stove
All cars with an injection engine have an electric fan, not a mechanical one. With mechanics, everything was simpler... The fan motor is connected to the network through a relay, and the signal to this relay is supplied by the ECU. Additionally, there is a fuse in the motor circuit, and the antifreeze temperature sensor (ATS) is connected directly to the ECU. If the cooling fan does not work, you can do one trick on the VAZ-2114: turn off the DTOZh sensor and start the engine. And if the fan starts spinning, the problem must be looked for in the sensor.
To avoid having to examine the wiring inside and out, just watch one video. Everything here has already been done.
Cooling fan diagnostics - trying to find the problem
There will be two temperature sensors: one, which is on the thermostat, is connected to the ECU. It is necessary to turn it off - leave the second one as it is.
DTOZH on engine 11183
We disconnect the connector, but do not remove the sensor itself. Then we turn the key to position 1, and so on.
Electrically, things look complicated: the fan relay is in one box, and the fuse is in another. We need fuse F5 (20A). By the way, both a fan and a horn are connected to it.
Mounting block 2114-3722010-60 and 2114-3722010-10
The main mounting block is installed under the hood, and the additional one is located at the left foot of the front passenger.
Additional mounting block (option 1)
In the additional block we see three relays. The "main relay" is located at the bottom. And then there are possible options:
- The fan relay is mounted in the middle;
- This relay can also be installed at the top.
The second option is shown below.
Additional mounting block (option 2)
By the way, there is always a fuse located near the relay we need. It is part of the fan circuit.
ECU outputs
For the BOSCH M7.9.7 ECU, the output to the fan relay is terminal 68. The “on” command corresponds to the “0 Volt” level. On MP7.0 units, everything does not look simpler - terminal 46 is connected to the relay, and the zero potential is also removed from it.
If the main relay is turned off, the fan relay will not be able to operate.
The fan does not work - we change it ourselves
Try to do this: you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery (the key is “10”), and then disconnect the motor connector.
Fan power connector
If you now connect the battery again, you can call “+12” on one of the two terminals. Now you can go all-in: the negative cord from the fan is connected to ground using a T-connector. Often on the VAZ-2114 hatchback the fan does not work because it is not the wiring that is faulty, but the motor. And then they perform the replacement.
Dismantling, all steps
Once again, make sure that you have disconnected the battery. Disconnect the connector as discussed above. Next, use a socket wrench to unscrew the two nuts holding the “stopper” (see photo).
Retaining bracket above the casing
There are four nuts at the corners of the plastic frame. They need to be unscrewed with a 10mm key.
One of four nuts
The mounting frame together with the fan is removed in the “up” direction. As you can see, everything is simple.
Installation of the unit is carried out in the reverse order. It will be possible to replace both the motor and the casing frame.
Articles
- 2108-1309010 – casing;
- 2109-1308008 (-01, -02) – motor assembly with impeller;
- 2103-1308010-10 – impeller;
- 12605571 – lock washer;
- 16102311 – M8 nut.
Conclusions: what exactly should be done if the fan does not work (action algorithm)
First, check whether the “plus” is connected to one of the terminals in the connector. Then connect the connector from ground to check the serviceability of the electric motor. In some cases, you can observe this:
- Both fuse F5 and the additional fuse are working;
- The fan relay operates as expected;
- The DTOZh sensor is working;
- The motor can only be turned on by applying a potential of “0 Volt”.
There will be only one conclusion: the ground contact has come loose, which ends the entire power line. This means you will need to contact an auto electrician. All other faults can be overcome by yourself.
Element F5 may burn out as a result of the horn closing. But then “+12” is not called up on the connector, which should immediately alert you.
Checking the functionality of the sensor
Checking the functionality of the device should begin with monitoring the response temperature. To do this you will need a thermometer and a multimeter. All actions can be performed independently, without resorting to a visit to the service center. If the multimeter is equipped with a thermocouple, then there is no need for a thermometer. To check the sensor, follow the instructions below:
- Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. For convenience, you can select the dialing mode;
- Immerse the threaded part of the sensor in water;
- Start gradually heating the water. You can control the temperature using a thermometer, or temporarily switching the multimeter to the thermocouple mode;
- Wait for the device to respond;
If there is a critical deviation of the response limit, the sensor must be replaced. After purchasing a new device, you must check its suitability. Defective products are very common on sale, so checking whether the sensor turns on correctly is the responsibility of every car owner.
Finding possible causes of fan malfunction
The search for possible reasons why the fan on the VAZ-2114 does not work must first begin with the fan itself. To do this, disconnect the fan connector and connect it directly to the battery terminals, while maintaining the polarity. If the fan starts working, it means that it is fully operational and the reason lies in something else.
Where is the fan relay for the VAZ 2114 injector.
But if the fan still does not turn on after the above manipulations, you should check the condition of the sensor contacts and whether the wiring is intact. If in this case everything turned out to be fine, it’s time to check the fan relay and fuse. Both of these parts are located under the hood of the car, closer to the driver's side in a special mounting block.
fan wiring repair
systems
VAZ 2114
.
It should be noted that fuses 20A and F4, responsible for the fan and sound signal, are double on the VAZ-2114. Therefore, if the reason for the fan not working lies precisely in the fuse, then the sound signal will not work. You can check the functionality of the fuse using the most common automotive tester.
But, unfortunately, you will have to tinker with the relay.
In order to confirm or rule out the relay problem, you should acquire a similar device that has been tested for performance. You need to temporarily install it in place of the old one and check whether the fan starts working. If in this case a miracle did not happen, we move on to inspecting the sensor.
After de-energizing the sensor, the fan should start in emergency mode and provide constant airflow. To do this, disconnect the sensor from the connector and turn on the car ignition. If the fan
finally started working, this indicates a sensor malfunction. The latter, by the way, cannot be repaired, which means it can only be replaced.
Where is the VAZ 2114 cooling fan relay?
Replacement with draining antifreeze
If you discover that the device is not functioning correctly or is completely inoperable, you need to replace it with a new one. To perform dismantling, you must follow the instructions:
- If the engine is hot, it must be allowed to cool;
- De-energize the vehicle ground by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery;
- Remove the expansion tank cap;
- Remove the radiator cap;
- To prevent contamination, it is necessary to place a container under the drain hole;
- Drain the antifreeze from the radiator. There is no need to drain antifreeze from the cylinder block. To unscrew the drain plug, just a hand is enough, so no tools are needed;
- When the liquid stops flowing out, you should return the plug to its place to avoid its loss;
- Remove the terminal with wires;
- Use a wrench to carefully unscrew the sensor.
To install a new sensor you must:
- Check the condition of the copper sealing washer. In most cases, it will require replacement with a new one. Using an old gasket is fraught with antifreeze leaks;
- Screw in the new sensor, making sure that the sealing washer fits evenly;
- Connect the terminals with wires;
- Pour antifreeze into the expansion tank. If the drained antifreeze is of good quality, you can return it. Otherwise, fresh fluid must be used;
- To eliminate air pockets in the cooling system, it is necessary to purge it;
- Replace the radiator cap;
- Close the expansion tank;
- Connect the negative terminal of the battery;
- Warm up the engine until the sensor responds.
If after these steps the fan does not turn on when the required temperature is reached, it is necessary to continue troubleshooting in other possible places. Before continuing to search for a breakdown, it is advisable to read the error log from the ECU using a diagnostic scanner.
Where is the VAZ 2115 cooling fan sensor located?
Hyundai Accent silver Logbook Replacing the heater fan
Dear visitors of the “Cars” website! We will be very grateful for your comments on the video clip “Where is the VAZ 2115 cooling fan sensor located?” registration is not required for this. We also ask you to let us know if you have any problems playing the video.
Why does the rad fuse blow when the fan is turned on?
Why does the rad fuse blow when the fan is turned on?
can you tell me why I shouldn't bother the first transmission of the ventilator, but should I bother my friend?
I did this the first time it doesn't work. but I found an interesting thing in this wiring idiot, there are two wires on the power supply and the chip is divided into three, there should be a poop switch because I don’t have a yoyo?
try to supply power to the motor with other wires, and it will be clear whether there is a problem with the motor or not
Hello, please tell me why the expansion tank with antifreeze is mixed with oil from where it gets into the expander of a Volkswagen Passat V4 rev. 2. 0 1995 in and the temperature heats up to 110 degrees, the fan does not turn on
Hello, I want to know how to turn on the fan without a chip on a Volkswagen Passad.
Where is the Chevrolet Niva fan sensor located?
If without a plug how to determine the connection between the plus and minus of the thermal sensor, something often breaks down, maybe I’m not connecting the plus minus correctly
Hello, you checked the circuit, and the video is called how to check the sensor, so how do you check the sensor?
The problem is the following: the sensor is new, you jump the motor directly and it doesn’t work. but the radiator is heating up even as much as there is a whistle coming from under the tank cap, and the fan is not working
Good evening, I have the following question: the fan turned on and does not turn off, it works constantly, the upper hose is hot and the lower one is cold, could there be a problem with the sensor?
Hello, I have a lot of questions. 1, the engine overheats at low speeds and the light comes on, I don’t know the reason. 2, the fan speed is low, but if you turn it on directly from the battery, it’s as high as expected. 3, the pressure in the cooling system is high, the rubber tubes become hard. 4, in reverse gear the gearbox lever pops out. Thanks in advance.
Please tell me at DTOZh which wires are responsible for what? and then at 105 on the tidy the fan turns on, cools to 100 and again stays at 100-105
thanks for the video, I was looking for this sensor for a week and wanted to connect it directly, but for the future, write down the year of the car because I don’t have a sensor there for a Daewoo Lanos 1997 car, and thanks for the video
Hello Dima, my Lanus Daewoo right-hand automatic grenade flew off, but there is no other car in the city that can carry a grenade, if you know, I would be grateful
Installing a new sensor without draining the coolant
In the injection engine of most car models, the sensor is located high in the cooling system, which allows it to be removed without a significant spill of antifreeze. To do this, you must follow the instructions below:
- Do not unscrew the sensor completely. In this case, a slight leakage of antifreeze will begin;
- Check the copper washer on the new sensor;
- Unscrew the old device with one hand and quickly bring the new one in with the other;
- After tightening the regulator, thoroughly wipe the area from any coolant drips;
- Check the quality of installation for leaks.
With this method, the car owner can significantly save time. The disadvantage of this method is the need to make a replacement quickly, which can cause difficulties for inexperienced car enthusiasts. If the circumstances are unfortunate, a large amount of antifreeze may spill from the cooling system.
Keeping all elements of the cooling system in working order will protect the engine from overheating and unpleasant consequences. It is necessary to carry out timely monitoring of the operation of the regulator, especially when the first symptoms of overheating appear. Since the work requires the presence of heated fluid, all manipulations should be performed on a cooled engine. This will protect the car owner from thermal injuries.
Source
When do you need to change the fan on a VAZ-2114
If the reason for the non-working fan lies in the fan itself, you can still try to repair this part. As a rule, the problem lies in the bearings. But sometimes it also happens that due to a break in the windings or a short circuit, the fan motor itself fails. If this happens, then it is better not to try to repair anything, but to replace this part.
By the way, driving a car with a non-working fan is strictly prohibited. As a result of this action, the coolant can warm up significantly, which will lead to complete destruction of the pipes and rubber hoses. Driving a short distance with the fan not working can also cause the cylinder head and valve cover gaskets to fail. But that's not all. Overheating of the engine can also destroy some elements of the piston group.
In other words, the fan
(its cost, by the way, is not that great) can cause much more serious problems, the elimination of which will entail significant material costs. On average, the cost of a new fan for a VAZ-2114 varies from 1.5 to 2 thousand rubles. Replacing it at a service center will cost another 500 rubles. But replacing all the above parts and gaskets can cost more than tens of thousands.
Sensor layout
The sensors under the hood of the VAZ 2115 are located as follows.
1. Phase sensor; 2. Coolant temperature sensor; 3. Knock sensor; 4. Oil pressure sensor; 5. Oxygen sensor; 6. Crankshaft position sensor; 7. Speed sensor; 8. Idle speed sensor; 9. Mass air flow sensor; 10-11. Gasoline level sensor; 12. Antifreeze level sensor; 13. Throttle position sensor
Principle of operation
The two-contact temperature sensor on the VAZ 2110–2115 family is a resistor mechanism with a negative temperature coefficient. That is, in the cold its resistance is high, and when heated, on the contrary, it is low. During operation, the DTOZ transmits impulses to the ECU. The device has 2 contacts: one for communication with the control unit, the second for starting/stopping the radiator fan.
Table 1. Units of measurement of water temperature and data on DTOZH VAZ 2115
Degrees t°C | Resistance (Ohm) |
100 | 177 |
40 | 1459 |
0 | 9420 |
−20 | 28680 |
−40 | 100700 |
Information for self-checking with the meter
Simply put, the VAZ 2115 temperature sensor (8-valve injector) performs one of the functions of a damper (choke), which was traditionally located on carburetor cars. Having received readings from the DTOZH, the ECU system ensures that the cold engine is injected with a rich fuel mixture, and the hot engine is injected with a lean mixture.
HOW TO REPLACE
If you are convinced that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fan motor, then the easiest way to carry out repairs is to completely replace the device. In this case, there is no point in spending money on a new casing. It will be cheaper to just buy a new electric motor.
Necessary tool
No special tool is needed. The work is carried out simply using 8 and 10 socket wrenches and a Phillips screwdriver.
Step-by-step algorithm of work
You can replace the cooling fan motor without removing the radiator.
- Disconnect the connector and device wiring harness from the casing.
- Unscrew the mounting bolts using a 10mm wrench.
- Unscrew the lower fastening nut.
- Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the mounting nut from the radiator.
- Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the two pressure plate nuts.
- Remove the plate.
- Remove the electric fan along with the casing.
- Let's start dismantling the electric motor. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts and remove the engine along with the blades.
- Using a screwdriver, pry up the lock washer.
- And take it off.
- Remove the impeller.
- Put the impeller on the new motor. Make sure that the shaft pin fits into the impeller groove.
- Reassemble in reverse order.