Possible reasons for failure of the ignition module
Before repairing the main part in the car’s ignition system, you need to understand the nature of the problem. To do this, the consumer must be aware of the signs of a malfunction, as well as the causes of the breakdown.
The main reasons for device failure
Causes of problems:
- The ignition system uses spark plugs that do not match the vehicle parameters. They may not have the gap specified by the manufacturer. Also, the spark plugs themselves may not be working or dirty; this can be determined by visual diagnostics. If there are traces of carbon deposits on the devices, they must be removed.
- Malfunctions in the operation of the MH can arise as a result of frequent spark checks. At the time of diagnosis, a high load is placed on the device. If it appears frequently, it will lead to equipment failure or incorrect operation.
- The ignition module in the VAZ 2114 operates with the high-voltage cables disconnected. This also leads to device failure. The products themselves may be damaged, which affects the functioning of the engine as a whole.
- The device operates under severe vibration conditions. Their impact may be due to poor quality fixation of the module in the seat. As a result of vibrations, the factory soldering inside the equipment structure is damaged. This leads to its incorrect operation.
- The contact inside the plug with the low-voltage cables is broken.
- Initial use of a defective device or module with poor build quality. This factory defect can only be eliminated by replacing the mechanism; repairing the equipment is pointless.
- Moisture getting inside the case. This problem is unlikely, but exposure of the device to liquid may cause it to short out and break.
Signs of coil malfunction
The main symptoms of a malfunction in the VAZ 2114 ignition module:
- Difficulties arise when trying to start the engine. Starting the car engine may be difficult due to the fact that there is no spark on a spark plug or several.
- When idling or parking with the internal combustion engine running, the speed of the power unit floats. Their change is not associated with pressing the gas pedal and other third-party factors. This happens randomly.
- There are dips in the power of the car's engine. This is especially felt when driving uphill or sharp acceleration. Problems can also occur when driving on a flat road.
- Several cylinders stopped working. Usually these devices operate in pairs, so elements 1-4 or 2-3 could fail. Non-working cylinders may be indicated by “triple movement” of the engine.
- A “Check Engine” warning light appeared on the dashboard.
If the ignition module malfunctions, problems will appear not only in engine operation, but also when starting it.
The “Simple Opinion” channel, using the Lada Priora car as an example, spoke in detail about the symptoms that appear in the operation of the ignition modules.
Symptoms of a faulty ignition coil
Signs of a malfunction of the ignition coil are that the engine periodically “trips” (triggering is especially important in rainy weather, and when starting the engine “in cold weather”), “failures” occur when accelerating the car, when visually inspecting the coil, “paths” of electrical breakdown are observed, burning of contacts, signs of thermal overheating, the presence of a large amount of dirt and debris in the coil body and other, smaller faults. The most common cause of coil malfunction is a break in its primary or secondary windings. In some cases, their insulation is simply damaged. At the initial stage, the coil will work more or less normally, but over time the problems will worsen and the symptoms described above will appear to a greater extent.
There are several typical signs of an ignition coil breakdown. It’s worth mentioning right away that the malfunctions listed below can be caused by other reasons, so diagnostics should still be carried out comprehensively, including checking the condition of the ignition coils. Thus, symptoms of breakdown can be divided into two types - behavioral and visual. Behavioral ones include:
When dismantling the ignition coil if it malfunctions, you can observe visual signs that it has completely or partially failed. So, these include:
The main sign of a coil malfunction is the lack of ignition of the fuel mixture. However, this situation does not always arise, since in certain cases part of the electrical energy still goes to the candle, and not just to the body. In this case, it is necessary to conduct additional diagnostics.
Well, on modern cars, in the event of a breakdown of the ignition coil, the electronic engine control unit (ECU) will notify the driver about this by activating the Check Engine lamp on the dashboard (and a misfire diagnostic code). However, it can also light up due to other faults, so this requires additional diagnostics using software and hardware.
The symptoms of malfunction described above are relevant if the engine has individual ignition coils. If the design provides for the installation of one coil, common to all cylinders, then the engine will stall completely (this, in fact, is one of the reasons why several individual modules are installed on modern cars).
How to check the malfunction of the VAZ 2114 ignition module on your own?
The easiest way to check the device without removing it is to diagnose it at the moment the power unit is tripped. When the motor begins to operate unstably, it is necessary to disconnect the connector elements from each component of the module one by one. If the connector is disconnected from a functioning device, the operation of the engine will change. Dips will appear, and the unstable operation of the unit will increase. When the non-working element of the MH is disconnected, the motor will operate in the same way.
There is another simple diagnostic method, its principle is as follows:
- You will need an assistant to check. The spark plug is removed from the seat. The high-voltage cable is disconnected from the device.
- Then the disconnected wire is connected to a spark plug, which is applied to the body of the power unit.
- The machine motor is starting, you need to make sure that a spark hits the spark plug. If it passes, a blue light will appear between the device and the surface of the power unit, its formation is accompanied by a crackling sound. If there is no spark, then the spark plugs, high-voltage cable and module must be diagnosed.
For what malfunctions is it possible to repair the device?
Due to the fact that the ignition module by design includes a connection of two coils, it is difficult to repair. If there is a break or breakdown, as well as melting of the turns, the problem can be solved by replacing the device. This applies to any damage that appears inside the coils. The only option to correct the situation without replacing the device is to repair the damage to the solder joint.
Ignition module repair process
The repair procedure is carried out after preparing all tools and materials:
- a set of socket wrenches, you will need a tool for 10, 13 and 17;
- hexagon 5;
- flat head screwdriver;
- soldering iron with aluminum and flux;
- nail polish;
- multi-core conductors.
Restoring the ignition module operation is done as follows:
- The key is installed in the switch. The engine starts. Then you need to move the contact elements on the module to make sure they are not working.
- The power unit stops. The module is being removed.
- The device body is cleaned from dust. To disassemble, you need to open the case; this is done by prying it off with a screwdriver. Inside the device there is a board on which there is a silicone film; you need to get rid of it.
- Aluminum is removed from high-voltage contact elements. Old wires are removed.
- The next step will be soldering new conductors to the circuit. To do this, the surface of the collector device is cleaned from traces of plaque. Then the board must be installed on an electric stove and heated to approximately 200 degrees. As the temperature increases, a slight burning smell may be heard. This is not a problem for the circuit; heating it will simplify the soldering procedure.
- Then soldering is done. Using a soldering iron, flux and aluminum, the ends of the conductors must be connected to the ignition module. All contact elements of the conductors that are connected to the circuit must be treated with nail polish.
- Then the device is assembled in the reverse order and installed in the seat. After installation, the power unit starts up. If the repair solves the problem, then using a sealant, the device is fixed in place.
- If a transistor or switching device fails, then these components cannot be repaired, but they can be replaced. To do this, the parts are removed from the board and replaced with new ones.
Replacing the ignition module of a VAZ 2114
If repairing the MZ VAZ 2114 is impractical or impossible, then the problem with the operation of the device can be solved by replacing it.
The equipment needs to be changed only when the battery is disconnected. Otherwise, there is a risk of short circuits and failure of other electrical appliances.
How to remove the ignition module of a VAZ 2114?
The dismantling procedure is performed as follows:
- First, the on-board network is de-energized; to do this, loosen the negative clamp on the battery with a wrench.
- Then a search for MH is performed in the engine compartment. You can find the device by four high-voltage wires that go from the spark plugs directly to the equipment. These cables are disconnected from the MH.
- Then the connector with conductors is disconnected from the device. It is necessary to disconnect the fixing fastener located on the ignition module housing.
- The MZ itself is secured to the bracket thanks to three nuts. You need to unscrew them using a key.
- After dismantling the fasteners, the device located on three studs is removed.
Connecting a new device
The equipment installation procedure is performed in reverse order; during installation, the following nuances must be taken into account:
- After installing the ignition module, you need to look at its surface. It is marked with numbers - 1, 2, 3 and 4. These symbols indicate the numbers of the cylinders to which the MZ should be connected.
- To properly connect the device, you need to look at the ends of the high-voltage cables. They are also marked with the same numbers. This is done in order to simplify the procedure for connecting the MH to the cables.
Connection diagram
The device must be connected in accordance with the diagram given in this section.
Connection diagram for MZ on VAZ 2114
How to check the device after connection?
Diagnostics of the operation of the new VAZ 2114 ignition module can only be performed using a special device - a high-voltage arrester.
You can find it in almost any auto store. Using the equipment, you can diagnose the module, as well as high-voltage cables, for the presence of a spark. To check, you need to connect the device to the device and use its operating instructions.
What is ignition coil breakdown and its causes?
Let's take a brief look at what coil breakdown is, what it affects, and what it looks like visually. First of all, it should be recalled that the coil itself is a transformer that has two windings (primary and secondary), isolated from each other. The definition of breakdown is a physical phenomenon when, due to damage to the primary and/or secondary windings of the coil, part of the electrical energy falls not on the spark plug, but on the housing. This leads to the fact that the spark plug does not work at full power, and accordingly, the engine begins to “trouble” and its dynamics are lost.
Ignition coil device
There can be many reasons for the breakdown of the ignition coil - damage to the insulation of one or both windings, damage to the tip body, damage to its rubber seal (due to which water gets inside, through which electricity “sews”), the presence of dirt on the body (similar to water, current passes through it), damage (oxidation) of the electrode in the tip. However, most often the problem lies in the “wired” insulator, and therefore, to eliminate the problem, this place must be localized and insulated.
An interesting reason for the failure of ignition coil tips is the fact that when replacing a spark plug, in some cases, car owners, through carelessness or inexperience, can tear their waterproofing. This can lead to moisture getting under them and problems with engine operation. The opposite case is that when the car owner tightens the top nuts of the spark plug cups too tightly, there is a risk that engine oil from the engine will begin to penetrate into the plug housing. And this oil is harmful to the rubber from which the reel tips are made.
Also, the reason that spark breakdown occurs outside the cylinder is incorrectly set gaps on the spark plugs. This is especially true if the gap is increased. Naturally, the spark in this case has a detrimental effect on both the spark plug body and the rubber tip of the ignition coil.
What should I do if the problem remains after replacing the module?
If, after performing the repair, problems in the operation of the MH remain, then there is a possibility that the cause of the problem was not in the module. It is necessary to diagnose the remaining elements of the ignition system.
Spark plugs and ignition system
Features of checking spark plugs and other components:
- Before dismantling the devices, it is necessary to disconnect the ends of the high-voltage cables. Their condition is checked for damage. Defects in the tips often lead to malfunctions in the spark plugs. If there is damage, the wires are replaced. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the “high-voltage workers” themselves. They are not allowed to have any defects or damage to the insulation.
- After disconnecting the tips, the spark plugs are dismantled and a special spark plug wrench is used to unscrew them.
- After dismantling, the condition of the devices is assessed. The color of the parts must be brown; carbon deposits and soot on the electrodes are not allowed. If there are uncharacteristic marks, the devices are cleaned using a metal brush or fine-grained sandpaper. For a better effect, the electrodes of the candles can be heated on the stove.
- The condition of the gap between the part and the electrode element is checked. If it is too large, this indicates that the device is not working correctly. The spark plugs will need to be replaced.
VAZ 2115 diagram
Detailed color wiring diagrams for the VAZ 2115 (carburetor, injector) are provided with a description of the electrical equipment for various modifications. The information is intended for self-repair of cars. Many electrical circuits are divided into several sections for ease of viewing via a computer or smartphone; there are also circuits in the form of one picture with a description of the elements - for printing on a printer.
If you need to distribute power to external consumers (DVR, headlight washer, radio) when you turn on the ignition, it is better to take power from the battery through a relay. According to the scheme, 86 for the body, 85 for the ignition (for example, yellow-blue heater switch). Contact 30 through a 30 Amp fuse to the battery, 87 to consumers. That is, when you turn on the ignition, the new relay will turn on and the power will come directly from the battery.
Examination
Checking the VAZ 2114 ignition module is carried out as follows.
First of all, you need to check the block of wires that go to it. To do this, disconnect the block of wires, take a tester and connect one of its probes to the block, and connect the other to engine ground. Now look at the tester readings: the voltage should be around 12V. If there is no voltage, then you need to check the fuse. Then take a 12V test light and connect it to pins A and B. Turn on the starter and watch: the lamp should blink, if it doesn’t blink, therefore, there is an open circuit on pin A. Perform a similar operation with pin B. So, how to check the ignition module VAZ 2114, 2115 (8 valve injector)? Today there are several verification methods. 1) The first method is to replace the unit with a known working one. Everything is simple here: take it from the donor car and replace it. But there are certain disadvantages here: - there may not be a donor car, buying a new unit does not suit our task - it will not fit any car. Not everything is so simple here: old Samaras with a 1.5 liter engine are equipped with an ignition module. New cars are often equipped with ignition coils. In them, the switch is located in the ECU - therefore, the module is eliminated as unnecessary, leaving only the coil. — you need to make sure that the high-voltage wires are in good condition, otherwise there is a possibility that the unit will burn out. 2) The second method is the method of moving the unit. If at the moment of your impact the engine operation changes, then the problem is poor contact. This malfunction is common, so you can try to repair the unit yourself. If it cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced with a new one. 3) To check you need a tester. Using a tester, measure the resistance at the paired terminals between cylinders 2 and 3, as well as between cylinders 1 and 4. The resistance should vary around 5.4 kOhm and be the same.
The 2111 (1.5i) engine may have an ignition module or an ignition coil installed. The 11183 (1.6i) engine is equipped with ignition coils.
To perform the work of replacing the ignition coil, you will need a multimeter.
How to set the ignition yourself?
Precise ignition adjustment on the VAZ 2115 injector is performed using a special strobe light. If this is not possible, you can set the ignition on the VAZ by spark.
To do this, follow these steps:
- First of all, the engine is warmed up until it reaches operating temperature.
- The distributor does not need to be removed, but only relaxed.
- You need to remove the central wire from the distributor.
- The piston in the 1st cylinder must be at TDC (the marks are set differently on 8 and 16 valve engines).
- Now you need to hold the short-circuit wire with your left hand and turn on the ignition.
- Use your right hand to adjust the distributor counterclockwise, while keeping the high-voltage wires above the metal.
- Then similar actions are performed, turning the distributor clockwise until a spark appears.
- At this point, the alignment ends, and the distributor is fixed in its regular place.
With the ignition set correctly, the car will operate without interruption with optimal fuel consumption and maximum power.
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Withdrawal procedure
Release the lock and disconnect the wires from the ignition coil terminals.- Turn on the ignition and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage between terminal 15 and ground in the case of an ignition coil or between terminals C and D in the case of an ignition module on the wiring harness block. The voltage must be at least 12 volts. If there is no voltage or it is less than needed, then you need to check the charge of the battery, computer or power circuit. To check the ignition coil, you can replace it with a known good one.
- After taking measurements, turn off the ignition.
- Disconnect the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs.
- Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts of the upper mounting of the coil bracket.
- Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the lower mounting bolt of the bracket and remove it together with the coil.
- Disconnect the high-voltage wires from the ignition coil
- Using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode, we measure the resistance between the central terminal 15 and the housing. The multimeter should show that there is no short circuit of the primary winding of the coil to ground. We sequentially measure the electrical resistance between the central terminal 15 and the outer terminals - 1a and 1b. The resistance of each of the primary windings of the coil should be about 0.5 ohms. When taking measurements, you need to take into account the device's own resistance.
- Using an ohmmeter, we measure the resistance between the high-voltage terminals of the coil 1 and 4, and then 2 and 3. The resistance of the windings should be about 5.4 kOhm.
- Using a 5mm hex wrench, unscrew the 4 screws securing the coil to the bracket and remove the coil.
Ignition coil breakdown
The term breakdown of an ignition coil or spark plug tip means a breakdown in the weakest point of the housing or wire insulation due to a decrease in resistance, occurring in short periods of time. This is mechanical damage that leads to the appearance of cracks or melting. On the surface of the case, the breakdown site appears as black, burnt-out dots, longitudinal tracks or white cracks. Such spark piercing areas are especially dangerous in humid weather. This malfunction leads not only to failure of the mixture to ignite, but also to complete failure of the ignition module.
Often such places are not difficult to notice visually, but sometimes it is necessary to check the ignition coil, not with a multimeter or oscilloscope, but with a simple device made of two wires. When a damaged area is identified, the part is usually completely replaced, although sometimes it is possible to delay the replacement using electrical tape, sealant or epoxy glue.