Repair / From Alexander Smirnov
- Symptoms of a problem
- Diagnostics
Checking the electrical circuit
- Pressure check
- Video: how to distinguish an original from a fake
Fuel pump malfunction in VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars is a fairly common phenomenon. You can solve this problem yourself, without resorting to the services of a car service. The pump replacement procedure is quite simple. It will require only a few hours of free time and a standard set of tools.
Models of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115 cars
VAZ 2114/2115 cars are equipped with 1.5 cm 3 and 1.6 cm 3 gasoline engines with a distributed injection system. A submersible electric fuel pump is used to supply fuel. It is part of the fuel module installed at the top of the gas tank (under the rear seat). In addition to the pump, the module includes a fuel accumulator (cup), a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor with a float.
The VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump is a conventional DC electric motor in a sealed housing with a one-way valve at the outlet. An impeller of a special shape is located on the electric motor shaft. Its rotation ensures the fuel supply.
The fuel pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The electrical circuit of the pump, protected by a fuse, is closed using a separate relay.
Electric fuel pumps for VAZ cars are produced by both domestic (Utes, SAAZ, Pekar) and foreign companies. The latest modifications of the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with BOSH pumps, which are distinguished by their high reliability, long service life and relatively low price.
Catalog numbers of standard fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115:
- 2112–1139009–12 - for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm 3;
- 2112–1139009–01 - for engines with a volume of 1.6 cm 3;
- 580453453 (BOSH) - for engines with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 cm 3.
These models differ in operating pressure. The former are capable of creating a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa in the fuel system, the latter - 3.7–3.9 kPa. BOSH fuel pumps are rated at 3.5 kPa.
Scheme of work
Essentially, a fuel pump is an electric motor that pumps fuel and creates the pressure necessary for the operation of the entire system. It, as noted above, is one of the components of the fuel module. The latter is a block, inside of which there are also:
- intake chamber;
- fuel level sensor;
- float;
- filter mesh.
The fuel pump is powered from the car's network. The engine is installed so that it is freely washed by gasoline. This ensures its cooling. In this case, the fuel also lubricates the working surfaces of the pump.
Symptoms of a problem
A malfunction of the fuel pump of VAZ 2114/2115 cars can be diagnosed by the following symptoms:
- when the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running;
- the engine does not start or starts with difficulty;
- the power unit is unstable at idle, the speed “floats”;
- “dips” appeared during acceleration;
- the motor has lost power.
The same signs also appear when other elements of the fuel system malfunction.
Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump, you should make sure that:
- the fine fuel filter is not clogged (it is changed every 7 thousand kilometers);
- the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are operating normally;
- The sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, and oxygen quantity are working properly.
If the detected malfunction is accompanied by the lighting of the “CHECK” lamp on the dashboard, you should set the error code and decipher it.
Wiring
If the fuel pump fails, first of all, you need to make sure that the circuit was installed correctly. Three wires lead to its electric drive:
A regular 12 volt light bulb will help you figure this out. It is connected to the power wires. When you turn on the ignition, it will light up - this means that the electrics are supplied correctly.
The lamp also checks the performance of the motor itself. In this case, it is connected to the protruding terminals of the drive, and its short-term flashing will indicate in this case a malfunction of this element.
The fuel pump mass is located under the steering wheel, not far from the handbrake handle. It is its use that most often leads to wire breakage. In this case you will need:
There is also a relay that controls the operation of the fuel pump. It is necessary so that when the ignition is turned on, operating pressure is immediately formed in the fuel supply system. It is important not to get confused, because there are three relays, and only one of them is related to the pump.
This element cannot be repaired and is simply replaced with a working one.
Diagnostics
A malfunction of the VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump can be caused by:
- malfunctions in the device’s power supply circuit;
- failure of starting and protection elements (relay and fuse);
- wear of electric motor parts.
Checking the electrical circuit
At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:
- car tester (multimeter);
- crosshead screwdriver;
- two pieces of wire about 2 m long.
Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:
- Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
- Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.
The relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114/2115 are located in the mounting block under the glove compartment.
Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.
Pressure check
If the pump is working properly, but the engine begins to operate intermittently, you should check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:
- pressure gauge (can be a tire gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 kPa);
- petrol-resistant hose with a diameter of 10–12 mm and a length of 50–80 cm;
- two clamps for a hose of the appropriate diameter;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- nipple cap;
- dry rag.
In addition, the presence of an assistant is desirable.
The verification procedure is as follows:
- In the engine compartment on the engine fuel rail, locate the pressure measuring fitting (on the right side).
- Remove the plastic cap (plug) from the fitting.
Selecting and replacing the fuel pump
Russian car owners prefer BOSH fuel pumps. You should only buy a new pump in specialized stores. The original product must be packaged in thick plastic film filled with special preservative oil. At the same time, a branded BOSH pump cannot cost less than 2 thousand rubles.
Video: how to distinguish an original from a fake
To replace the electric fuel pump on a VAZ 2114/2115 you will need:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- thin slotted screwdriver;
- key or head 7;
- key to 10;
- key to 17.
Video: dismantling the fuel pump
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Using a 10mm wrench, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Open the gas tank cap to reduce the pressure in it.
- Remove the rear seat cushion and peel back the carpet and sound insulation.
Video: disassembling the fuel module
If, when disassembling the fuel module, it is discovered that the coarse filter is clogged, it should be replaced. The fuel level sensor with a float must also be replaced if the readings on the front panel do not correspond to reality.
Thus, diagnosing and replacing the fuel pump of a VAZ 2114/2115 car is quite simple. And in order for the pump to serve for a long time, always refuel only with high-quality gasoline.
Source
What fuel pumps are installed on the VAZ 2114/2115
The gas pump (or fuel pump) pumps fuel from the gas tank to the engine. On models 14 and 15 of the VAZ family, the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. The gas tank is located on the bottom of the car, in the rear. Therefore, in order to get to the fuel pump if necessary, you will need to remove the cushion from the rear seat in the cabin and find a small hatch hidden underneath.
The device is “hidden” under the rear seats, under an inconspicuous hatch in the car body
On cars of the Samara VAZ family (that is, on “fourteeners” and “tags”), “native” factory fuel pumps of the “Saratov” brand are installed. Their performance is average, but in terms of tightness they can let the driver down at any time. However, their main advantage is their low cost.
Each owner of a VAZ-2114/2115 can easily replace an unwanted fuel pump with a better one. For example, the domestic “DAAZ” or the time-tested “Pekar”.
The production of gasoline pumps is located in Dmitrovgrad
Foreign analogues: QH (England) and OTA (Italy) also fit perfectly into the fuel system of domestic cars, however, their cost is almost three times higher than the price for a Saratov fuel pump. However, unlike domestically produced pumps, QH and OTA products are equipped with only one membrane, but a very thick one. Therefore, when using foreign expensive gasoline pumps, the possibility of fuel getting into the oil is practically excluded.
Pekarov production was opened in St. Petersburg
Table: comparative characteristics of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115
Fuel pump test results | |||||
Characteristic | "Baker" | DAAZ | Saratovsky | QH | OTA |
Zero supply pressure (at a crankshaft speed of 2000 rpm), kgf/cm2 | 0,26 | 0,28 | 0,26 | 0,3 | 0,36 |
Capacity for free drainage (at a crankshaft speed of 2000 rpm), l/h | 80 | 76 | 73 | 92 | 74 |
Suction period at crankshaft speed 200 rpm, s | 4 | 13 | 12 | 9 | 6 |
Valve tightness at a pressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2 (fuel leakage within 10 minutes), cm3 | 8 | 12 | 20 | 8 | 8 |
Place | 3 | 4 | 5 | 1–2 | 1–2 |
How to check the performance of the fuel pump
Often, for those problems for which the car owner blames the fuel pump, other elements of the fuel system are to blame. To establish whether a fuel pump has failed, you will need to know the reasons why it might break.
Causes of fuel pump malfunctions
Most often, the device may fail while the vehicle is moving. The gas pump may simply refuse to pump fuel from the tank to the engine, or a leak may form, causing the device to malfunction. If the power supply is interrupted, the pump stops working completely.
The main causes of fuel pump malfunctions include the following:
lack of tightness in the pump itself (leakage);
damage to membrane surfaces;
the resource of the pump motor has been used up;
wiring or relay problems;
dirt and debris in the fuel tank, which, along with gasoline, enter the pump.
As you can see, there can be many reasons for a fuel pump to fail.
Dirt deposits on the filter mesh are a common cause of fuel pump malfunctions.
Symptoms of a problem
There are only four main signs by which you can diagnose malfunctions in the fuel pump without special tools:
The car simply won't start. Of course, the engine may not function for a number of other reasons, however, first of all, you will need to check the functionality of the fuel pump itself.
After the car starts, the characteristic buzzing of the fuel pump is inaudible. The whirring noise should be clearly audible in the rear of the cabin, as the fuel pump is located under the rear seats.
Recently, interruptions in the operation of the power unit have begun to be observed: the engine does not start the first time, while driving you can hear the engine straining.
The car starts to jerk when driving at low speed.
Checking the fuel pump of a carburetor car (mechanical)
Mechanical fuel pump - diagram
To check the operation of the fuel pump, you should:
Delayed jet output is not a sign of a breakdown, especially if the car has been parked for a long time. As a rule, diaphragms eight and nine are the main cause of malfunction.
Be that as it may, you need to inspect both the strainer and the inlet/outlet valve.
Even if the gaskets are replaced, fuel may leak. In this case, the problem lies in the tightness of the fuel pump housing due to deformation during repairs.
Let's summarize:
The causes of fuel pump problems, both electrical and mechanical, are varied, and the need to find/fix a breakdown may take you by surprise along the way. By following the above recommendations, you will be able to independently carry out the entire necessary set of measures to diagnose this device. And you should start with the power supply (if it is an electric fuel pump) and the operation of the diaphragm when checking a mechanical fuel pump. Very often, the unstable operation of a fuel pump is not due to its breakdown, but to related parts - a filter, check valve or injectors.
Source
Repair of fuel pump VAZ 2114/2115
When repairing the fuel pump, we will proceed from the fact that we have already removed the fuel pump from the tank. How to properly dismantle the device will be written below, but we will dwell in more detail on the description of the progress of the repair work:
You will need to remove the protective cup from the module - to do this, you will have to pry the cup latches with a screwdriver, and the fuel pump will come out freely.
We unscrew the two screws from the fuel pump housing that secure the fuel level sensor, then disconnect the cable of wires coming from the sensor and put it aside.
Next, you will need to disconnect the filter mesh from the pump using a flat-head screwdriver.
To complete the disassembly, you need to remove the housing itself from the device - there is a cotter pin on the surface that needs to be pulled out.
You will need to carefully examine all parts of the device for cracks, tears and deformations. As a rule, most often some specific parts of the fuel pump fail, which are much easier and cheaper to replace than to buy a new device. Replacing membranes, rubber bushings or filters is not particularly difficult: use a screwdriver to pry off the old product and pull the new one in its place. The fuel pump mesh, float or fuel level sensor can also be easily mounted with a regular screwdriver.
The unit is reassembled in the reverse order.
Video: how to repair a fuel pump on a VAZ 2115 with your own hands
Device
In the VAZ-2115, the fuel supply system contains the following components:
- ramp;
- fuel line;
- filter;
- Control block;
- fuel injectors.
The fuel module itself includes:
- gasoline level sensor;
- gasoline pump;
- float;
- primary filter.
The latter's mesh is located directly at the suction port of the pump. It quite well rids the fuel of contaminants, the presence of which significantly reduces the service life of the entire system as a whole.
In addition, the gas line also has a filter that provides fine cleaning of the fuel.
As practice has shown, the VAZ engine injector itself is quite reliable and very rarely fails. In addition to individual elements of the fuel system, its operation also involves:
- ECU;
- sensors that monitor various parameters.
What to do if the fuel pump does not work
Before deciding anything regarding the repair or replacement of this device, it is worth remembering that the function of the gas pump is to create a certain pressure in the fuel system of the car. Accordingly, the first step is to measure the fuel pressure, quite possibly in order to accurately diagnose the failure of the fuel pump.
Measuring pressure in the fuel system
Normal atmospheric parameters in the VAZ-2114/2115 fuel system are as follows:
after turning on the ignition - from 3;
without pressure regulator tube - 3.3;
after pressing the gas pedal - from 3 to 4.5.
You will need to measure the pressure in five operating states of the fuel system at once in order to obtain accurate data. There is a pressure fitting under the hood of the car; you will need to unscrew the cap from it and attach a pressure gauge with a hose. By turning on the ignition, holding the drain, pressing the gas, it is necessary to take all five pressure measurements.
Using a pressure gauge, you can measure the fuel pressure and, based on this indicator, look for a malfunction
Wiring check
If the pressure readings are almost identical to normal, you will need to check the wiring for a short circuit. It is quite possible that the fuel pump itself is in working order, only the contacts that go to it have been damaged.
It is necessary to check the fuel pump wiring for short circuits.
You need to know that the wiring system, which goes directly to the fuel pump itself, has three wires: positive, negative and an indicator of the fuel level in the tank. You will need to take a regular light bulb with a power of no more than 12 V and attach its wires to the “+” and “-” contacts on the external connector of the pump. After starting the engine, if the lamp blinks, then there is contact.
If there is a flaw in the wire circuit, the light bulb will not light up. The internal contacts of the fuel pump are checked as follows:
one by one, the light bulb wiring is connected to the “+” and “-” connectors of the fuel pump, then to its ground and relay;
if the lamp blinks when connected to the negative contact, then the fuel pump contact is considered not working, and if it does not blink, then the “+” contact is not working.
After this, you will need to first check the relay and fuse: if they are normal, then the wiring is damaged somewhere between the pump and the relay.
Pressure
First of all, you will need to measure the pressure in the fuel supply system. If the pump works as it should, it is about seven atmospheres. To check, the pressure gauge is connected to the ramp through the fitting there. Remove the cap from it and screw on the measuring device.
If everything is in order, then the readings will be as follows:
- 2.5 kPa (idle);
- 3 (ignition on);
- 7 (if you pinch the fuel outflow hose);
- 2.5-3 (increase in speed).
In the same situation, if after the ignition is triggered the pressure gauge does not show anything, then most likely the pressure regulator has failed.
When no changes occur even after gaining speed, then the issue here is clearly in the fuel pump. A slow change in readings indicates a clogged filter mesh.
Replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114/2115
Before you begin work, you should relieve the fuel pressure in the system. Even when the pump is not working, the pressure can remain very high, which will lead to the pressure of a stream of gasoline during dismantling work.
To reduce the pressure in the fuel system of a car, it is enough to let it stand on level ground for three hours. The fuel pressure in the hoses and pipes will noticeably decrease, and replacing the device will take place without any difficulties.
Not in all cases it is necessary to replace the fuel pump with a new one; sometimes it is enough to simply repair it
Preparing tools
To make all stages of the work easier, you will need to prepare several tools. As a rule, most car owners have all of them:
How to remove a faulty fuel pump in a VAZ 2114/2115
The procedure for dismantling the fuel pump determines the following stages of work:
Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Raise the rear seat cushion inside the vehicle.
There is a small hatch under the seat - it is under it that the fuel pump is located.
Using a 17mm wrench you will need to unscrew all the nuts securing the hatch to the floor.
Putting the hatch cover aside, you will need to disconnect the two wire blocks. To do this, you will first need to bend the fixing element on the plug.
Next, using a 17mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the nuts on the fuel line and disconnect the fuel pipes.
After this, the fuel pump itself will become accessible. Using an extension cord and a wrench, you will need to unscrew all the fasteners that connect the pump to the metal surface of the car.
The best way to remove the fuel pump is to use a screwdriver to hook it onto the rubber ring.
Video: how to replace the fuel pump in a VAZ 2114
How to install the fuel pump back
The procedure for installing the fuel pump in the VAZ 2114/2115 is completely reverse: that is, you will first need to insert the device into the cavity under the seat, and then connect all the disconnected wires and tubes. The final stage is closing the hatch and returning the rear seat cushion to its original place.
The ability to independently diagnose a fuel pump failure, as well as quickly replace or repair the device, will be especially useful for those drivers who are accustomed to servicing their car themselves. In addition, the procedure for checking the fuel pump and its repair cannot be considered particularly complex work, so even an inexperienced owner will be able to get the fuel pump into working condition without contacting a service station.
Source
Typical pump failures
The main reasons that can lead to pump failure may be the following:
The pump motor rarely fails. This is due to the fact that this design unit operates under intensive cooling by a flow of gasoline. The electric motor elements are constantly flushed with fuel.
The most common failure of the centrifugal vane hydraulic supercharger in the pump design is observed. This occurs due to the presence of tiny contaminants in the fuel, which enter the mechanism with the flow of gasoline, and rubbing structural elements, which wear out greatly over time, which leads to a decrease in the seal between them. This leads to a decrease in performance and, as a result, a drop in pressure in the fuel system.
When the first signs of wear appear, the VAZ 2114 fuel pump operates with an increased noise level, which becomes immediately noticeable, and further wear leads to the engine refusing to start. Repair of a failed pump, as a rule, is not carried out. This is due to the difficulties that arise when opening the pump casing. Most often, the assembly is replaced. The reasons for failure of the electric fuel pump relay may be the following: