VAZ 2110 ignition module: signs of malfunction

If there is something wrong with the ignition of the VAZ-2110, of course, it’s time to sound the alarm. At any moment the car can simply break down. The engine will stop and the key will not work when turned. If the car breaks down on the road, you will have to call a tow truck, and this is an additional hassle and extra expenses. There is a risk of not accidentally starting the car at a traffic light, for example, disturbing others. It is already indecent to know that the car is faulty and do nothing. But for some reason I want to do exactly this, relieve unnecessary emotional stress, forget about problems, not make any decisions about this, and figure everything out.

Every day the situation is becoming more and more tense. Meanwhile, it is easy to find and fix the breakdown. All you need for this is a little time and desire. To be honest, going to a service station is not necessary. However, only the motorist himself decides where to go and what to do.

Diagnostics

Troubleshooting, unfortunately, is an important part in the life of every motorist. If something breaks, he and only he needs to react. Listening to the machine is probably the most important thing. Focusing approximately on its details, it’s not a problem to guess what’s wrong. The longer a person drives a car, the less he relies on intuition. But not in the sense that he is beginning to be able to figure out breakdowns. Having failed to guess correctly once, twice, the driver trusts himself less and less. What is the reason? A lot of them.

One of the most common reasons for inattention to the car is fatigue, depression, sadness, and melancholy.

Sometimes everything is simpler. Many people are frankly afraid of their car and not only it, but other equipment too. It can be difficult to get under the hood, remove the cover, trim, etc. And all because you want to feel like you are in control of the situation, so that the equipment works independently, as promised in the advertisement. When it becomes clear that one of the parts is faulty, a feeling of confusion appears. But the perpetual motion machine was not invented. New devices and designs are an attribute of the dynamics of the 21st century. They need to be used more and more confidently. The day is not far off when every person will have a so-called smart home. How can everything be repaired if the ignition module of the VAZ-2110 still cannot be repaired? This is a very simple element.

It is believed that the key should turn, then a spark should jump and the engine should start. Sometimes things aren't quite like that. I would like to think about the ignition module. There is no certainty.

Design

Disassembled module
Structurally, the ignition module includes two main elements:

2 ignition coils that generate high-voltage pulses directed to the spark plugs;
Dual channel switch.

The reasons for failure can be different, ranging from interruptions in the operation of the engine, ending with an unexpected stop of the power unit. Please note that the "Check Engine" light does not turn on.

Signs of a malfunctioning ignition system

How do you understand what the problem is? The VAZ-2110 ignition module, signs of malfunction - this is not a sealed secret, not a mystery of the century. There is nothing mysterious here. Attentiveness will allow you to find what you are looking for. First, you need to inspect the module. It may have damage, cracks, or scratches. It is better to change such a part. It is a source of serious danger. There is a risk of fire. Having examined the module and found no signs of damage, what should I do? There's probably a problem internally. There is a chance that this is not the case at all.

A malfunctioning ignition system can easily be confused with engine problems. Accordingly, you need to prepare for repairs - repairs are expensive.

Version of the module on the 8-valve VAZ-2110

Ignition module 2111-3705010 (Stary Oskol).

Ignition module 2112-3705010 for a one and a half liter engine.

The top ten was equipped with two 8-valve engines of different sizes - 1.5 (2111) and 1.6 liters (21114). The ignition modules for these engines are different.

The one and a half liter engine has a module with article number 2112-3705010,
and the 1600 cc is equipped with module 2111-3705010.

A module for a 1.5 liter engine costs about 1500-2100, and the second one is 500 rubles cheaper.

Which is better?

SOATE devices manufactured in Stary Oskol have proven themselves to be the most reliable ignition modules.

Module structure

The module consists of two ignition coils and two high-voltage switch switches.

Inside the module there is a board with radio components and ignition coils filled with compound.

The coil generates a high voltage pulse, and it is a simple transformer with two windings, primary (induction voltage about 500 V) and secondary (induction voltage at least 20 kV). All this is assembled in a single housing, on which there is a connector for signal wires (from the engine control unit) and four terminals for high-voltage wires.

Schematic diagram of the module.

The module operates on the principle of an idle spark - it distributes sparks in pairs to cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 according to impulses transmitted from the ECU.

The simplest but 100% accurate diagnosis

Popular wisdom states that the shortest path is the straight one, and the crowbar and ax method is the most effective. The easiest way to carry out diagnostics and obtain reliable information is by borrowing or purchasing a new module. It must be in working order. The old part should be carefully removed and the same new block, borrowed or purchased, should be installed in its place. The situation will immediately become clear - the car will either start or not.

This procedure is elementary and simple. The only difficulty is getting spare parts. However, this is not really such a problem. You must first try to find her, ask around, make an effort. Only through experience will it be possible to establish the truth. Someone will most likely help by borrowing the required module for a short while. A broken module needs to be repaired or replaced. A car in which something else has broken naturally should be inspected more carefully.

How to check the ignition module?

First of all, we carefully inspect the module body. There should be no chips, burns or cracks on its surface. A module with a damaged casing is replaced without any hassle.
If the spark is unstable only on cylinders 1-4 or 2-3, one of the module coils is probably damaged. In any case, we will conduct a comprehensive check of the device. For this we will need a regular multimeter.

Multimeter for checking the ignition module.

Checking the ICP with a spark gap

Disconnect the IKZ from the spark plug.
Install a spark gap on the IKZ.
Apply ground (from the battery terminal) to the spark gap using a wire.
Turn the crankshaft with the starter.
If there is a spark, then the IKZ is working.

Let us remind you that you can find a problem in engine operation by independently measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, or by checking the compression in the cylinders.

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What determines the performance of the coil?

The classic ignition coil or “bobbin”, as it is also popularly called, is essentially a low-voltage voltage converter from the battery and generator to high-voltage, which is then supplied to the spark plugs. That is, this is a miniature electrical transformer.

The ignition coil is a kind of mini electric transformer

The traditional coil, used on carburetor models of vehicles, consists of two windings. The primary winding receives low voltage pulses, for example 12 Volts. As a rule, this is a small number of turns (up to 150) of thick insulated copper wire. The “primary” has 2 terminals on the coil cover. There are much more turns in the secondary winding - up to 30 thousand, but the wire used is much thinner. One end of the “secondary” goes to the “minus” of the primary winding, the other to the central terminal of the coil. In the center of the windings there is a core that enhances the magnetic field. The coil body is insulated, and its cavities are filled with special oil for transformers.

The fundamental characteristic that indicates the serviceability of almost any coil is the resistance of the windings.

Checking module power

Before testing the performance of the coils, you should make sure that a possible breakdown is not caused by a loss of power to the device . First, you need to try to simply restore contact by moving it several times or disconnecting/connecting the block of wires included in the connector. If such manipulation does not lead to improved engine performance, a tester (multimeter) is used to determine the quality of incoming pulses.

The block of wires is removed from the connector. On the block, each terminal (A, B, C, D) has a corresponding socket. Testing with the engine running is done as follows.

The first contact of the tester is in socket D, the second is to ground. The multimeter switch position is 20 volts. If there is power, the tester shows 12 volts.
The first contact is in socket C, the second is ground. Switch on ohmmeter (20 Ohm). Normally it shows less than 1 ohm, that is, the mass is normal.
The first contact is in socket B, the second is ground. 20 volt switch. The norm is not less than 0.3 volts. If this is so, it means that a normal pulse is coming from the Hall sensor to position B.
Contact A is checked similarly to the previous one.

Checking the ignition coil with a multimeter

Checking the voltage at the terminal block of the wires

Disconnect the block with wires from the ignition coil (on the H4M engine, to access the coils of cylinders 1 and 2, remove the intake pipe).
Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the wiring harness block (the numbering of the terminals is on the ignition coil).
The voltage at the terminal must be at least 12 V. If it is less or absent, it means the battery is discharged, there is a fault in the power circuit, or the engine control unit (ECU) is faulty.
Turn off the ignition.

How to check ignition coil resistance

We set the switch on the multimeter to the 200 Ohm position and close the probes (the instrument error will be displayed on the screen, which will need to be subtracted from the readings during testing).
We check the primary winding of the ignition coil by connecting the probes of the device to the contacts.
The resistance between pins 1 and 3 should be close to zero (about 1 ohm).
The resistance between pins 1-2 and 2-3 should be high (tend to infinity).

For what malfunctions is it possible to repair the device?

Due to the fact that the ignition module by design includes a connection of two coils, it is difficult to repair. If there is a break or breakdown, as well as melting of the turns, the problem can be solved by replacing the device. This applies to any damage that appears inside the coils. The only option to correct the situation without replacing the device is to repair the damage to the solder joint.

Ignition module repair process

The repair procedure is carried out after preparing all tools and materials:

a set of socket wrenches, you will need a tool for 10, 13 and 17;
hexagon 5;
flat head screwdriver;
soldering iron with aluminum and flux;
nail polish;
multi-core conductors.

Restoring the ignition module operation is done as follows:

The key is installed in the switch. The engine starts. Then you need to move the contact elements on the module to make sure they are not working.
The power unit stops. The module is being removed.
The device body is cleaned from dust. To disassemble, you need to open the case; this is done by prying it off with a screwdriver. Inside the device there is a board on which there is a silicone film; you need to get rid of it.
Aluminum is removed from high-voltage contact elements. Old wires are removed.
The next step will be soldering new conductors to the circuit. To do this, the surface of the collector device is cleaned from traces of plaque. Then the board must be installed on an electric stove and heated to approximately 200 degrees. As the temperature increases, a slight burning smell may be heard. This is not a problem for the circuit; heating it will simplify the soldering procedure.
Then soldering is done. Using a soldering iron, flux and aluminum, the ends of the conductors must be connected to the ignition module. All contact elements of the conductors that are connected to the circuit must be treated with nail polish.
Then the device is assembled in the reverse order and installed in the seat. After installation, the power unit starts up. If the repair solves the problem, then using a sealant, the device is fixed in place.
If a transistor or switching device fails, then these components cannot be repaired, but they can be replaced. To do this, the parts are removed from the board and replaced with new ones.

Ilya Balashov presented a video with the result of soldering the ignition module using the example of a VAZ 2110 car.

Connecting and replacing VAZ short circuit

The procedure for removing and installing the ignition coil on old VAZ models:

First, disconnect the central high-voltage wire leading to the distributor (ignition distributor).
Disconnect all power wires from the coil contacts. Since they are fastened with nuts, you will need an 8 wrench for this.
If you don’t know which wires to connect to which connector later, it’s better to immediately remember or mark them somehow, so that later during installation you can connect them correctly.
Unscrew the coil housing. It is attached to a clamp (clamp), which is pressed to the car body with two nuts.
After the work has been done, you can remove the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.

For new type VAZ cars:

We remove the “minus terminal” from the battery.
Remove the top protective cover of the engine. If the engine volume is 1.5 liters, then this part is missing and this step is skipped.
We remove the high-voltage wires from the coil.
Now, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two fasteners.
Using a 17mm wrench, loosen one bolt securing the coil.
We take out the module.
Use a hexagon to unscrew the coil from the holder.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Particular attention should be paid to the connection, since high-voltage wires must be located in the strict order provided for by the design. If this is not done, the car will stall or the engine may not start at all.

Replacing the ignition coil on a VAZ is quite simple. Even a novice motorist can do this in his garage, and if everything seems too complicated, contact a car service. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of product, since this will determine how well the engine and ignition system will work.

Replacement

Replacement is quite simple and effortless. To replace, you will need a ratchet with an extension and a 10mm socket.

Replacement process

We remove the negative mark from the battery, since the work is carried out on the electrical equipment of the car. This will avoid an unintentional short circuit in the vehicle's network.

We remove the high-voltage wires from the MZ and the power connector.

We unscrew the nuts securing the MZ and dismantle it.

Pay attention to the order in which the wires are connected. Do not confuse them, otherwise the car engine will not start. Cylinder numbering starts from the timing mechanism from left to right. Connect the wires as it is written on the Ministry of Health.

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Classic, family 2101-2107

Domestic VAZ cars of the “classic family” (models 2101-2107) are equipped with carburetor and injection engines. Cars with carburetors have an ignition coil (or "bobbin") installed. The arrangement of the element is as follows: the part is mounted on the left mudguard in the engine compartment of the car, and is attached to the body using two nuts.

Cars with installed injectors (VAZ 2107) have an ignition module. It is mounted on the cylinder block of the car's power unit. The part functions together with the engine's electronic control unit, and the ignition coils are included in the design of the entire module.

The ignition module used is a universal model (installed on other domestic cars)

For the injector and as part of the BSZ, a coil 027.3705 is used, analogous to 27.3705 (ATE-2).

The characteristics of the “injection version” of the VAZ ignition coil are as follows:

Operating temperature from -40° C to +85° C Resistance value: primary winding (0.45+0.05) Ohm secondary winding (5+0.5) kOhm Supply voltage 12 V Overall dimensions 72x156 mm, oil-filled design

Priora, 2170-2173

The Lada Priora is equipped with the same ignition coils as the Kalina. The coil is marked 2112-3705010-12. Just as in the case of Kalina, Priora is equipped only with injection engines, so carburetor ignition coils or “bobbins” cannot be installed on the car.

To summarize, it is worth saying that when choosing an ignition coil for a car, it is necessary to take into account the marking of the part, its compatibility with a particular model of the domestic automobile industry. Despite the high interchangeability, attention is also paid to the overall dimensions of the part and the type of fastening in the engine compartment of the car. You can purchase coils or ignition modules for domestic “classics”, “Samara” and “Sputniks” in our online store with a few clicks of a computer mouse.

VAZ 2110 was born back in 1996. The first models were produced with an 8-valve carburetor engine. Then the carburetor was replaced by an injector and even a 16-valve engine, which was first installed on the VAZ 2112.

Accordingly, with the advent of the injection system, many different electronic sensors appeared in the car, such as the ignition module.

In this article we will talk about the ignition modules for the VAZ 2110-12, namely its symptoms of malfunction, checking, cost and do-it-yourself replacement.

Visual inspection of the IKZ

Remove the ignition coils from the engine using a 10mm or Torx E8 socket wrench (depending on the powertrain model). Carefully inspect the removed coils. There should be no cracks, damage to the rubber cap, melting or leakage of plastic. The spring located inside the coil must be in the correct position.