VAZ 2114: knocking sound when turning the steering wheel

Car steering is one of the most important systems, responsible for the proper movement of the vehicle, the safety of passengers and those moving next to this vehicle. Any knocking sound that occurs in the steering system when turning the steering wheel on a VAZ 2114 indicates a problem that needs to be fixed, and the sooner the better.

From this article, the reader will learn what problems arise in the steering system and related components, how to eliminate the mentioned malfunctions and breakdowns that provoke unwanted knocking when the vehicle is moving.

Steering cardan

Knocks that occur in the steering cardan have spoiled the blood of more than one car owner with its unclear symptoms. It is not always clear where and what is knocking. Drivers begin to rebuild and change brakes, spend money on wheel balancing, change other parts, but the result is zero. You can understand that it is the steering shaft driveshaft that is knocking if you hold the lower part of the steering column near the pedals and rock the steering wheel with your other hand. At the same time, vibration of the steering wheel is felt. Small, within one millimeter. One of our homegrown Kulibins found a simple solution to the problem. A rubber bumper for the front suspension arms is purchased, and a 2x2 cm cube is cut out of this rubber part.

The rubber is dense, cutting is not easy, but the result is worth it. The cube is inserted into the cardan fork. To make the cube go in easier, lubricate it with WD-40 and push it in with a screwdriver. A steering shaft with such an insert will last for some time. Another option is more expensive and simpler: you need to buy a new steering shaft and install it.

Idle speed sensor

When the driver feels his vehicle begin to jerk, it makes sense to check the condition of the idle speed sensor. At the same time, such a malfunction is very difficult to identify, since often the well-known Check Engine indicator simply does not appear on the dashboard.

For this reason, it is worth checking it first. In this case, the nature of the malfunction may be different. Firstly, the sensor is contaminated with oil, dust, and crankcase gases. Secondly, you should not discount the mechanical nature of the damage - the rod, threaded connections, rivets flying out and other cases. Thirdly, this is a failure of the electrical part.

Steering rack device

The VAZ 2114 car has a mechanical steering rack without power assistance. It is secured with two clamps and bolts that attract the rack body to the car body.

The rods are attached directly to the rack using hardened bolts with fine threads. The steering gear shaft rotates on two bearings.

The first is needle type. Serves as a lower reference point and at the same time a guide.

The second is a radial ball bearing. Serves as an upper support point and secures the steering shaft in the upper neck of the steering rack housing. The output shank has splines and a wedge groove. Here the shaft connects to the steering column.

A plastic sleeve is placed in the rack body. It is the second reference point when moving the rack. There are several sealing, locking and protective elements.

Checking filters

The fuel system of a modern car is equipped with at least three filters. The first of them is, in fact, just a mesh that serves to trap solid particles. It is placed in the neck of the tank, but it is not capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that fuel does not enter the cylinders. In this regard, this filter cannot be the reason that the VAZ-2114 twitches when driving.

The other element is mounted on the fuel pump, which is submerged in the tank. This is the same grid, only with smaller cells. However, the functions are basically the same - to retain large debris. For this reason, it is also clear that it is also not capable of becoming very clogged.

The third element is located after the fuel pump, and it is this filter (it serves for fine cleaning) that can become so clogged that the pump will one day stop coping with its duties.

At the same time, some models may have several additional filters installed. And they may well cause the car to jerk.

Repair and adjustment of the VAZ 2114 steering rack

The steering rack is the connecting link between the front wheel pair and the steering wheel of the car. The condition of this unit determines the ride quality and degree of controllability of the VAZ 2114. The service life of the steering rack is long, since there are quite a few parts in this unit. This material describes the main malfunctions of the mechanism, as well as methods for eliminating them. Due to its simple design, even a novice motorist can repair the rack.

Good to know! Despite the strength of this unit, steering racks in foreign cars (even budget ones) last longer, and their control is softer. The main difference is the hydraulic booster, which is not included in the design of VAZ 2114 cars.

Main malfunctions and their symptoms

If the following symptoms occur, you should diagnose the steering rack:

The steering wheel gets jammed while the car is moving, causing difficulties in steering – the steering shaft is damaged or displaced; among auto mechanics this phenomenon is called “biting”.
A knocking sound appears in the chassis - this requires repair of the rack elements.
The car pulling to the side, the car wobbling at high speed are signs of play in the steering mechanism. Because of this defect, it is impossible to perform a wheel alignment.

Depending on the degree of damage, the problem can be solved by repair (installation of a factory repair kit), replacement of the entire assembly, or adjustment. This material contains instructions for adjustment and repair.

If you want to repair the steering rack yourself, then you should purchase the following spare parts:

Tubes for rack.
2 tips - they already come with nuts.
Repair kit.
2 silent blocks.
Cover for the rack.

Repair requires replacement of the above parts even if only the tubes are damaged. The wear of elements must occur simultaneously, so it is not recommended to skimp on parts. You will also need bearing grease, clamps, White Spirit, and a can of WD-40. It is worth preparing rags in advance, as you will need a lot of them. As for tools, repairs require sets of wrenches, screwdrivers, socket heads, and wrench extensions. Special tools include special wrenches for the adjusting nut, as well as a puller for tips.

Rack in disassembled condition

Advice! When the defects in the operation of the steering rack are minor (for example, knocking), then it is better to start with adjustment. If the adjustment does not help, then you should move on to diagnostics and repair.

Before starting repairs, it is recommended to carefully study the structure of the steering rack, which is described in detail in the VAZ 2114 operation and maintenance manual. You should first apply WD-40 to the four nuts that secure the steering rack to the car body. You also need to shed the only tightening nut and the threads of all the tips. After 3-4 hours the work must be repeated. Repairs can only begin the next day.

Rail repair

Repairing the rack must begin with its adjustment. Most likely, after adjustment, all knocking will disappear. If it doesn't help, you'll have to disassemble it and change parts.

Adjustment

You can adjust the VAZ 2114 rack as follows: directly on the car or by removing it. The second method is needed after repairs. The car must be parked on a viewing hole; alternatively, a lift can be used. The adjustment is carried out as follows:

The VAZ 2114 must be put on the parking brake, locking the rear wheels;
Next, you should disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and lock the steering wheel;
The manufacturer has provided a special adjusting nut with which you can quickly adjust the unit. This element is located on the mounting side of the part facing the car body;
If adjustments are performed rarely, there will be a large layer of dirt on the adjusting nut - this must be removed with a cleaning agent. Adjustment is carried out using a special key.

Stabilizer link (eggs)

Stabilizer links are a suspension element responsible for its lateral stability. They are usually installed in the front suspension, but rear struts are also found. Wear of the components of the stabilization strut gives rise to knocking noises and indicates the need for its diagnosis. The knocking sound is heard especially clearly when the car is driving on uneven roads and on turns. Worn and the need to replace the struts is indicated by the car pulling to the side and the need to adjust the steering movement. When the car tilts to one side, this is also one of the signs that the struts are faulty and need to be replaced.

How to disassemble the steering rack of a VAZ 2114 and replace worn parts

In addition to a helper and new slats, you will also need a set of tools and materials. Be sure to include in this list:

Set of wrenches;
Jack;
17mm hex wrench;
Balloon wrench;
Bricks or similar materials (to support the front of the car without wheels);
Puller for steering rods (not necessarily needed, you can do without it);
Dry rags;
Litol type lubricant;
The almighty WD40.

Now you can proceed directly to replacing the steering racks. We strongly recommend that you follow the established procedure for conducting operations.

Place the car on a level surface. No, a simple floor in your garage is enough, it is not necessary to level it with cement.
Apply the parking brake to keep the car from moving.
Raise the car on a jack, place logs or bricks under the front, and then remove the wheels.
Remove the negative cable from your battery for safety reasons. Nobody needs electric shocks today.
On the driver's side inside the passenger compartment, near the pedal block, unscrew the locking fastening bolt of the cardan of your steering shaft.
Remove the adsorber directly from the engine compartment. You can put it aside for now.
Remove the cotter pins, which will allow you to then remove the mounting nuts from the tie rod ends.
Using a rod puller, the ends are removed from the racks. If for some reason the puller is missing, it can be replaced by gentle, successive blows to the tips. Don't damage their threads just by doing this. They usually lend themselves, so many people do without pullers.
Treat the rack clamp fixing nuts with an anti-rust agent. Now we are talking about the almighty WD40. Wait a while for the composition to be absorbed.
Using a wrench, unscrew the fastening nuts. Processing with a Vedash should greatly simplify this task for you. There are four nuts in total.
Remove the rack by pushing it through the passenger side, that is, the right side of your VAZ 2114.
We recommend replacing the boot at the same time as replacing the racks. Over time and during the period of operation, the steering boots seriously wear out, so it is hardly worth trusting old boots to work with new racks.
The tips are removed from the slats. At the same time, try to count the number of turns with which the nuts were tightened. This will allow you to fasten them back as close to precision as possible at the reassembly stage and, with peace of mind, go to the service station, where they will adjust the wheel alignment.
Take your new rail, remove the plugs from it.
Next, take Litol or a similar lubricating liquid into your hands and fill the body with this composition as much as possible.
The ends are mounted back onto the rods. Try not to mix up the places of the nodes, although they are different from each other. However, as practice shows, this does not prevent many do-it-yourself repairmen from confusing them.
The new rail is placed in its rightful place. To do this, the nuts are attached to the studs of the clamps.
Now you will need your friend, comrade, assistant. Ask him to help guide the shaft drive gear to the seat located directly on the rack housing. The splines must line up exactly. Be sure to check this moment.
A locking bolt is fixed on the cardan.

You can safely perform all other work in the reverse order of the dismantling described above. In this case, each thread must be treated with Litol. This event will allow you to more easily deal with disassembling the elements during subsequent repairs. Or it will be a pleasant surprise for the new owner of your VAZ 2114.

Repair

To perform the repair, you will still have to disassemble the steering wheel. You can see detailed instructions in the material on replacing the steering rack.

Replacement process

Let's move on directly to the repair procedure.

Remove the rail from its seat.
Remove the thrust nut with a 17mm hexagon.
Remove the thrust nut, remove the retaining ring, spring, and rack stop.
First, the gear shaft boot is removed, after which you can easily get to the locking ring.
Remove the nut that holds the gear bearing in place. Be prepared for the fact that it will be quite difficult to unscrew it; use some force. This is fine. It's worse if it practically doesn't hold on.
The drive gear shaft is pressed out.
The rail is removed from the housing.
Next, remove the support sleeve, lubricate it and put it in place. It may take some effort to push it back.
Replace all bearings present in the assembly. Some are difficult to extract, while others are almost impossible. But it needs to be done. If you cannot remove it at all, then cut the bearing with a chisel and remove it with pliers.
Examine the condition of all surfaces, parts, and assemblies for any defects or damage.
If you notice faulty elements, replace them using a repair kit.
The design will have quite a lot of moving elements. Each of them must be lubricated with high-quality lubricant. Litol will perform well here.
Reassemble by following the reverse disassembly sequence.
You will definitely need help for reassembly. Therefore, agree in advance with a friend or someone else who can help you in this matter.
Place the repaired rail in place and attach its fasteners.
A rack is inserted into the spitz. This is where you will need an assistant. It is almost impossible to do this yourself.
Use a chisel to loosen the clamps.
Tighten all mounting bolts in place.

If you notice typical signs of a rack malfunction, do not delay repairing or replacing it. This can lead to tragic consequences when, at the most inopportune moment, the steering wheel stops responding to your efforts and you lose control of the situation. This is not an attempt to scare you, but a simple fact of life.

Power steering rack VAZ 2114 – is it worth installing?

You can, of course, come across amplifiers that are made in a homemade way. Their appearance is no different from those made by leading manufacturers. It’s just that difficulties may arise during the installation process. Even the mounting holes may simply not match. And the question immediately arises about how strong the iron is, even if the holes in the VAZ 2114 power steering rack are incorrect. Therefore, when choosing, it is best to look at mechanisms from manufacturers that have proven themselves to be the best. Any VAZ power steering rack undergoes tests, during which its advantages become clear.

Deformation at the crankcase mounting points is reduced several times. But the movement of the pins is halved.
The crankcase moves less when turning the steering wheel. The steering angle changes by 10-12 degrees.
The rigidity of the shield becomes higher, and controllability improves.
The creaking of the dashboard goes away when you turn the steering wheel in place.
The steering wheel stops shaking when stopping with the engine running.

Wheel imbalance

First of all, I checked the presence of balancing weights on each wheel - they were all in place, but I dare to assure you that this is not a hundred percent guarantee that the wheels are not unbalanced. This can only be determined using special stands or instruments. So I postponed further testing at the stand until a later time (since this requires money and equipment).

Steering rack VAZ 2114 - symptoms of failure

The first symptoms of a rack malfunction or the need for tightening are clear:

Knocking noise under the hood in the area of the engine shield, especially when driving over uneven surfaces.

Increased steering wheel play.
Steering wheel rotation is too tight or too free.
Leakage of lubricant through oil seals and rack casings.
Sudden biting of the steering rack while driving.

The latter can be considered a glaring signal of malfunction and can lead to serious troubles while driving.

In this case, most likely, tightening the situation will not correct the situation, however, it is too early to draw conclusions, you can try to adjust it. This can be done in two ways - both on the car and with the rack removed.

In the second case, the adjustment is made after replacing the repair kit and completely repairing the mechanism. We will try to make do with little expense and simply adjust the gap in the gear-rack engagement, thereby eliminating backlash and knocking.

Ball joints

Ball joints are suspension elements. The durability of ball joints is affected by:

The quality of the anthers that protect the assembly from dirt and dampness;
Climatic conditions;
Driving style;
The quality of roads where the car is primarily used.

Naturally, in urban conditions, ball joints last longer.

During operation, the ball joint gradually wears down. And this grinding occurs the faster the sooner sand and other abrasive particles get under the boot. Ball joints must be regularly filled with oil, since the lubricant protects them from grinding and loosening. A knock when driving through holes is the first warning about the need to inspect the supports and replace them. The wobbling of the car when the wheel turns out should serve as a serious warning to the driver to take emergency measures.

Causes of knocking

Knock in the steering rack - where does it come from? Let's look for the root cause.

Yes, the steering rack is a simpler system than the outdated worm type.

As noted above, even on Russian cars it “goes” 80-100 thousand km without causing problems for motorists.

But premature knocking, alas, sometimes occurs.

The reasons are:

On a VAZ-21099, for example, knocking in the steering rack is often caused by insufficiently tightened mounting bolts. No, they were tightened in good faith, it was our amazing roads, creating vibrations, that eventually unraveled them. The knocking noise here is easy to eliminate - you just need to tighten all the fasteners.
On the VAZ-2110 and all cars in the tenth row family, the support bushing on one side of the rack often wears out. Since the support bushings are made here from plastic, their rapid wear does not become a miracle when traveling along our ideal, so to speak, roads. Irregularities contribute to the free movement of this element, causing wear to occur at an accelerated pace.
The situation is much more serious when the covers protecting the steering rack are torn. Then dust and dirt have access to its jagged surfaces, which without unnecessary drama looks like a disaster. The rack will not work for a long time without protection, which is why the unfortunate knock appears.
Corrosion of a part is generally a fatal problem, because the steering rack will definitely have to be replaced. It is expensive, but not more expensive than finances and, most importantly, life with health.
Rarely, but there is a manufacturing defect. Here the rack most often knocks on a new car. Fortunately, if the vehicle is listed under warranty, then replacement of a low-quality component can be achieved through the “establishment” of the manufacturer of the car. Factory damage and poor workmanship are the most common cases of manufacturing defects.
Lath material. As a rule, it is soft and designed for driving on quality roads. When driving through our pits and as a result of constant vibration, metal is gradually removed from the surface of the rack, layer by layer, micron by micron, and this leads to premature wear of the support sleeve. In this case, the problem can be solved in two ways. Either buy a new rail or order the production of a similar one from a more durable metal. Usually people who do this will recommend you the right material.

All motorists, without exception, would like to know how to preserve and extend the life of the steering rack, because this is not just an expensive, but also a vitally important unit, the failure of which often turns into a tragedy.

Tie rods or rods

The steering tips in the diagram are indicated by the number 21. There are 2 tips in the steering rack, and they are sold in pairs, so that if one tip breaks, both need to be replaced. This system unit bears a heavy load, and therefore the resource of the unit ranges from 20–80 thousand km (depending on the quality of the part).

Over time, steering tips and rods wear out, knocking and squeaking noises appear. Sometimes the cause of knocking is dirt accumulated in damaged boots. To get rid of it, you need to change the rubber boots and clean the components.

Sometimes the cause of knocking is a loose mounting bolt that was forgotten to be tightened after the wheel alignment. It is enough to tighten it so that the knocking stops. If you do not pay attention to knocking in the steering tips, the cause of which is play and wear of the ball pin socket, then sooner or later the ball pin will jump out, and the car will no longer obey the steering wheel and become uncontrollable.

Repair of rack on VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115

Disassembly

1) First, you need to remove the rack from the car, and we recommend that you read the details of the process in the article: “Replacing the steering mechanism on a VAZ.”

Note! By the way, do not rush to start repairing the rack if you only heard a knock for the first time. The first symptoms can be removed by pulling it up; the top link to the article contains information on this topic.

2) Now on the right side, remove the support and spacer ring from the end of the rail, as shown in the first photo. Then use pliers to cut through the clamps holding the protective cover in place (see photo 2, these clamps are disposable), and then remove the cover (photo 3) from the rail. On the other side (from the end), remove another support, now metal, and the protective cap. This operation is shown in the fourth photo.

3) Next, unscrew the special. using a 17 octagonal wrench on the rack stop nut (photo 1) and remove it. There is a spring located immediately behind the nut (photo 3), remove it and put it aside. Using a screwdriver, pry up the retaining ring as shown in the last photo.

4) Next, take the rail in your hands and knock on the board. Knock the crankcase until the stop falls out of the inside, look at photo 1. Then remove the bulkhead seal (photo 2) and use a screwdriver to remove the gear boot (photo 3) and the lock washer (photo 4).

5) Proceed to removing the gear that comes complete with the bearing. It is necessary to remove it from the crankcase by unscrewing the gear bearing mounting nut (photo 1), and then remove it from the shaft (photo 2). Then, taking the mounting blade and using it as a lever for a wrench, use a 14mm wrench to grab the flat of the gear (photo 3) and, leaning the wrench on the blade, remove the gear together with the bearing from the crankcase (photo 4).

Note! By the way, you won’t be able to unscrew the gear fastening nut so easily; you will need a special wrench with a 24-inch octagonal head. Instead, you can use a head with the same size (photo below).

6) Now remove the steering rack from the crankcase by simply tilting the crankcase - the rack will fall out on its own (photo 1). Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry up the support sleeve and remove it from the crankcase (photo 2). Install the new bushing in place of the old one, after putting new damping rings on it (photo 3). During installation, make sure that their thin part is against the cut of the bushing. We put the bushing in place (photo 4). Install the bushing very carefully, making sure that the protrusions do not stick out. Be sure to cut and remove any remaining rubber damping rings.

7) Remove the retaining ring from the worm with pliers (photo 1), and then press out the ball bearing with a special puller, removing it in this way (photo 2). Next, proceed to removing the needle bearing. You will need either a special puller, or stock up on available tools: a hammer and a drill. The required drill bit diameter for a drill is 2 mm. At the end of the crankcase (photo 3), drill two holes through which you will knock out the bearing. Insert nails into the drilled holes and, hitting them with a hammer, remove the needle bearing from the crankcase (last photo).

Preparatory activities

Many experts advise taking certain steps to prepare for the replacement so that everything goes easier and faster. These actions include the following.

Treat all nuts and fasteners with penetrating liquid. WD40 works great.
If the tips last longer than one winter, to remove their fist you will need to use a 17 socket to unscrew the nuts.
If the nuts stick, try heating them with a hair dryer. A gas burner is also suitable, but you need to be as careful as possible with it.
Prepare tools for removing tips.

Today, two methods are used to dismantle steering tips - modern and traditional. The first involves the use of a special puller, and the second - a sledgehammer.

Jack and WD40 at the ready

The traditional dismantling method involves the following actions:

The steering wheel is turned all the way;
Several strong blows are applied to the steering knuckle;
Vibration causes the tip to pop out.

But the method has two serious drawbacks.

It will take special skill to deliver precise, but at the same time accurate and strong blows.
This method can reduce the service life of steering racks.

Therefore, the best option is a puller. You can literally buy it for 200-300 rubles, but it will be useful in the future and will significantly preserve the integrity of the remaining parts when replacing the launch vehicle.

Dismantling works

Replacement

The replacement procedure is quite simple. Especially if you have prepared the connecting elements in advance and acquired a puller.

Using a jack, lift one of the sides where you will begin to change the tips.
Turn the steering wheel to such an extent that it is convenient for you to replace damaged elements.
Treat the elements again with a penetrating liquid.
Unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the tip from the steering knuckle hole. Here you just need a puller or the traditional old-fashioned method using a sledgehammer.
Check the condition of the steering rods. Sometimes it is better to replace them in the first couple of wears. Besides, you still got into this knot.
Replace damaged tips with new ones.
Perform the reassembly procedure.

Assembly

Do the same with the second wheel.
We recommend that you think additionally about protecting threaded fasteners from moisture and dirt. To do this, the threads can be lubricated with lithol, graphite grease, a tube of a suitable diameter can be put on, or heat shrink can be used.
After completing the replacement of the steering tips, visit a service station to adjust the wheel alignment.
If you don’t want to go to a service station, then count in advance the number of revolutions when removing the old tip. The new one is twisted by the same number of revolutions.
Drive onto a straight road and check whether the car does not skid to the sides when driving in a straight line.

One of the main conditions for a successful replacement is the choice of quality parts.

New part

What to choose

Finally, we will present several options for the most popular steering tips, which are used today when replacing a VAZ 2114. So you can decide for yourself what to choose and which ones are better.

Manufacturer	Price
AvtoVAZ	620 rubles
TRACK	620 rubles
VIS	730 rubles
Lemfoerder	830 rubles
Finwhale	860 rubles

The last two tips are foreign made. This makes their price higher. But the quality is somewhat higher than AvtoVAZ products.

Replacing a LV is not so difficult that you need to go to a service station and pay 500-1000 rubles for the work of the craftsmen. You can easily cope with this task yourself, relying on the video and instructions provided.

VAZ 2114: adjustment and tightening of the steering rack. Replacing tie rod ends

Why does the steering rack knock on a VAZ 2109?

there is an adjustment unit in it, try adjusting it, if that doesn’t help, then replace the support sleeve

The new rack is also knocking, maybe it’s also not adjusted? how to regulate?

A special octagonal wrench is used to tighten the adjusting nut of the rack stop; it is located at the bottom of the rack and is not visible. Therefore, you have to work by touch

When adjusting, shake the steering wheel and when the knocking disappears, stop tightening

Thank you. Another question, my father has a 99, recently the gearbox rustled, the rustling became more and more, and now the gears are turned on with a crunch and the car in neutral jerks forward, what’s wrong with it?

you need to open it up and look, it’s stupid to make a diagnosis remotely

The oil was checked first of all as soon as the box with the dipstick began to rustle, the level was normal. Maybe the bearings have fallen apart?

if the soles had fallen apart, it would have rumbled unbearably while moving, don’t pull, take it apart

Thank you! We'll start digging tomorrow.

This is only experimental. You pull and you ride. If it bites and the steering wheel does not return after turning, let go a little. You're riding again. If the development is large, a lift will no longer help. It will either knock or bite, especially in extreme positions.

By the way, did you change the steering tips? They may also knock, but not the rack at all. Since you say that the new rack is also knocking, then it is very likely that they are.

Pull the steering rod up and down - is there any play or knocking?

a normal one shouldn't knock.

VAZ 2114, is it possible to install an amplifier yourself?

The work will take no more than two hours if you do everything without haste and with breaks. There is no need to remove the VAZ steering rack; there is no need to even disconnect the rods. You will need a small set of keys: for 10, 13 and 17. The last two are needed. It is advisable to have a good set of tools, since pliers, for example, may be needed at any time.

First you need to remove the left clamp and install the amplifier clamp located on the left on the studs. Moreover, its eye should be facing upward. After this, tighten all the nuts. The clamp on the right side of the steering rack is replaced in the same way. Then you need to put the corner of the rack on a pin located on the cross beam of the car body.

If there is an adsorber tube, remove it first and then install it on top of the corner. The entire structure must be tightened by placing a large washer on the stud. Next, the cross member is installed; its two bolts must be tightened simultaneously.

If there is a gap of about 1 cm in the structure, you will need to rearrange the clamps. Most likely, you mixed them up and installed them incorrectly. This completes the installation, now you can check the VAZ power steering rack in action.

We repair it ourselves

To get started, you will need a set of tools and repair kits.

Replacement kit

Be sure to include the following in your list of tools and materials:

Repair kit for one of three configurations (more about them below);
Bearings;
Lubrication;
Set of keys and screwdrivers.

Selecting a repair kit

Spare parts
As for repair kits, the standard minimum set includes four elements:

Washers;
Nuts;
Bearings;
Bushings made of fluoroplastic.

But is it enough for your specific steering rack situation? Let's try to understand the purpose and configuration of each of the three types of repair kits.

The cheapest repair kit, the contents of which you are already familiar with, allows you to solve the most minor problems that have arisen with your slats.
The middle kit additionally includes other bearings and shafts. Designed for more serious repair work.
The most expensive repair kit may consist of whole new slats, that is, it involves not a repair, but a simple replacement of units.

Which braid to choose?

The braid on the steering wheel makes it less slippery and also hides minor defects and abrasions that often appear on the part over time. This accessory can change the appearance of the steering wheel. It gives it a unique look. The product prevents further wear of the element. That's why many car owners buy it.

When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the material, design and method of fastening.

It is important that this accessory makes it comfortable to hold the steering wheel. It shouldn't make your hands sweat when riding for a long time.

It should not be too bulky or fleecy. But many girls prefer covers made of faux fur and similar materials. The product must be selected so that it is in harmony in color and design with the rest of the interior elements. Some car enthusiasts prefer bright braids on the VAZ 2114 steering wheel, which stand out noticeably against the background of the rest of the interior, but this is a matter of taste

It shouldn't make your hands sweat when riding for a long time. It should not be too bulky or fleecy. But many girls prefer covers made of faux fur and similar materials. The product must be selected so that it is in harmony in color and design with the rest of the interior elements. Some car enthusiasts prefer bright braids on the VAZ 2114 steering wheel, which stand out noticeably against the background of the rest of the interior, but this is a matter of taste.

Modern cases have different colors and designs. They are often attached differently. Some products are simply enough to put on the steering wheel. But there are also those that are fixed with special ropes and ribbons. The fastening method usually does not affect the reliability of the fixation. Steering wheel accessories are usually made from the following materials:

Leather or leatherette. These materials are durable and practical. With them, the steering wheel usually does not slip, and your hands practically do not sweat. Leather steering wheel covers often have a strict, classic design. They are chosen by both men and women. Accessories made from genuine leather are usually not cheap. To save money, you can choose a substitute product.
Suede, plush or artificial, less often natural, fur. They look shaggy or velvety. They are often painted in bright shades. Therefore, they are often chosen by car ladies. But these materials have significant disadvantages. They often noticeably increase the size of the steering wheel, and therefore it becomes uncomfortable to hold with your hands. In hot weather, hands from such products can become very sweaty, which causes noticeable discomfort when driving.
Foam rubber. Synthetic material allows you to create bright and original cases of any color and design. They are often marked with funny drawings or inscriptions. Foam products are pleasant to the touch and non-slip. They usually don't make your hands sweat. Such accessories are often chosen by young drivers of both sexes.

Troubleshooting

When a VAZ 2114 steering rack fails, do-it-yourself repairs will help save considerable money; a repair kit for the work costs about 300–500 rubles, and replacing the mechanism yourself will be cheaper.

Repair kit for steering rack VAZ 2114

Repair or replacement - you can decide after a complete diagnosis. But many problems, especially if detected early, can be eliminated quickly by simply adjusting the rack. Adjustments must be made after 500 km, maximum 800 km. This procedure should precede the repair; after it, most likely, knocking, play and other troubles will stop for a long time.

Adjusting the steering rack on a VAZ 2114

You can do this without taking it off, which is convenient if you encounter troubles along the way.
It will be necessary to make adjustments after the repair. Of course, it is much easier to do this with a removed unit. To adjust you need:

Raise the front part of the car using two or one jack (you can put any support under the second wheel - a block of wood, a stone). In the garage, in the parking lot, they use an inspection hole.
In this case, the car is put on the handbrake, the rear wheels are fixed by placing a “shoe” or a replacement one.
Before starting the adjustment, the steering wheel is locked and the battery is disconnected (just disconnect the negative terminal).
The adjusting screw with nut is located on the side of the assembly mount that is turned toward the body. Under the brake master cylinder, behind the subframe, at the intersection of the unit housing with the steering shaft.
Cleaning agent removes dust and dirt. If the adjustment has never been made, there is a factory cap on the nut; it must be removed by prying it off with a slotted screwdriver. Using a special wrench (octagonal, No. 17), adjustments are made by rotating the nut.

After adjustment, if the problem is resolved, there is no play in the rods when turning. The steering wheel has normal play of about 15°. The steering wheel rotates without knocking, is not heavy, and does not jam. Returns normally to its original position.

Repair tools and materials

If after adjustment the troubles remain, you need to dismantle the unit and carry out a full repair.

repair kit, one of 3 complete sets;
open-end wrenches (good if you have a set) and extensions for them, at a minimum - socket or open-end wrenches No. 8, No. 10, No. 13, No. 22;
spanners (set);
Screwdriver Set;
it’s good if there is a special puller for rod ends;
WD-40 (for treating “welded” bolts, nuts, parts, fasteners), white spirit or gasoline (for washing and cleaning parts), Litol lubricant or other recommended one;
hexagon No. 17;
chisel, rags, “shoes”, supports;
jack or inspection hole;
A wheel wrench is desirable.

The minimum configuration repair kit for the VAZ 2114 costs from 135 rubles. The parts of the units are interchangeable, as are the units themselves. When replacing, experts recommend installing a mechanism from a VAZ 2115; the parts there are much stronger, last longer, and it’s easier to find spare parts.

When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to which rail is already installed so that the purchased set of spare parts matches it. The cost of more complete repair kits is about 740 rubles and more (from VAZ, Tolyatti automobile plants), this includes all the parts of the mechanism.

When purchasing new tips and other components, you should pay attention to products from Kroner, Lemfoerder, Finwhale. The approximate cost of elements from foreign manufacturers is one and a half times higher than AvtoVAZ products, the quality is high, the parts are durable, reliable, with a good guarantee.

Direct implementation

First, we disassemble everything, wash it and begin cutting fragments of the required length. A PVC pipe with a diameter of 5 cm will act as a cracker; we will cut it and lay it in four layers. The length of the improvised bushings is 24 cm, so you don’t need to adjust anything, everything is tested from personal experience :).

In the center of the pipe, it is necessary to remove a strip about 3.5 cm wide. This is necessary so that during installation the cracker can shrink to the shape of the rail.

Another filter - fuel

If everything is in order with the air filter, this does not mean that the fuel cell is “crystal clean”. It is worth checking its condition, because as you know, before the fuel enters the cylinder, where it then burns, releasing energy, it also undergoes cleaning. In most cases, this is also the main problem why the car starts to jerk.

The filter element serves to remove various impurities from the fuel, which do not disappear anywhere, but simply accumulate here. And over time, it begins to clog, and gradually its capacity begins to decrease. As a result, this also leads to “fuel starvation” of the engine. We already know its symptom - the car jerking.

Steering rack VAZ 2114 - symptoms of failure

The first symptoms of a rack malfunction or the need for tightening are clear:

Knocking noise under the hood in the area of the engine shield, especially when driving over uneven surfaces.

On a VAZ-2114, a knocking sound when driving through uneven sections of the road may occur due to a loose nut on the bolt that compresses the cardan clamp

Increased steering wheel play.
Steering wheel rotation is too tight or too free.
Leakage of lubricant through oil seals and rack casings.
Sudden biting of the steering rack while driving.

Complete disassembly of the steering rack and replacement of the repair kit

Support bearings

One of the reasons why knocking noises occur when a car is moving on a straight road is wear of the bearings (4 and 6), which are responsible for rotating the shaft located in the engine compartment of the car. Worn bearings lead to radial wobble of the shaft, which causes knocking noises. If the retaining ring (7, 16) breaks or the sealing rings (9, 15) wear out, this leads to axial expansion of the gap and knocking of the shaft along the axis. In some car models, the steering column is non-removable. She changes completely. If the steering column is collapsible, then faulty, worn parts are replaced.

Why is the steering rack knocking?

A car, like any other piece of equipment, is subject to breakdowns. Everyone is used to this, since our roads are not the best, and our driving style leaves much to be desired. What to do if the steering rack starts knocking? It makes sense to say that you shouldn’t plunge into despair and calculations about future expenses, since all this is not as critical as it might seem. First of all, this mechanism is safety; without it, it would be dangerous to be on public roads. This source will tell you what to do if the rack starts to knock and how to extend its service life. The steering rack itself is the name for a mechanism with which you can easily control and maneuver in the car. The word comes from a device called “six rack”; it is installed so that it engages. This mechanism is more applicable in the assembly of current front-wheel drive cars. It is connected to control wheels operating on the steering rod and tip, because of this the mechanism began to be called a gear train.

Reason for knocking

If you turn the steering wheel along its axis, the gear rack of the steering shaft will move it to the area corresponding to self-rotation. At the same time, the rack rotates through the hinge and traction mechanisms, this makes it possible to turn the wheel in the desired direction. Nowadays, most steering racks are made of mechanisms that make the steering wheel easier to spin, mainly when the car is not running. The most common mechanism is the hydraulic booster. In this case, a performer’s device is placed on an ordinary rail, which in turn has a pump distributor. The pump, which is driven by a belt from the crankshafts, usually takes and supplies hydraulic substance from the power steering tank with a pressure of 55 atmospheres. All the liquid that is sucked in eventually comes out into the spool valve. The basis of its work is to monitor the applied stress on the steering wheel and, during its occurrence, help alleviate the driver's applied forces to turn. The main part of the distributor is the control device, which is located in the steering shaft. When the steering wheel is inactive, the torsion bar does not tighten and the outlets do not work, but you can still fill the oil, since the expansion tank is open. And while the steering wheel is rotating, the torsion bar begins to twist; the more effort is applied to the rotation, the faster the process.

Lifting and adjustment

As the practice and experience of VAZ 2114 owners shows, in case of problems with the struts, they can most often be repaired. The only condition. the presence of an inspection hole at your disposal.

First step. tighten the rail. But how is this done? To do this, simply turn the adjusting bolt. Adjustment is carried out with a 17 mm key.

When tightening the bolt, go into the car and drive a few kilometers to see if there is any knocking or play. If these symptoms of the problem disappear after you have raised and adjusted the steering rack, the repair is complete.

But this doesn't always happen. The knock may remain and the game may disappear, or vice versa. In any case, if at least one sign remains, you will have to begin a full-fledged repair yourself. Now you can find a number of useful ones that detail the procedure for restoring this node. Listen, it will be useful for you.

How to tighten the steering rack of a VAZ-2114 - step-by-step instructions

Most often, all work on tightening the rack comes down to only selecting the play in the engagement and adjusting the play of the steering wheel. In the event that the wear of the mechanism parts (bushings, the rack itself, the gear, oil seals and anthers) is critical, repair and installation of a repair kit cannot be avoided. However, the easiest way to check this is to tighten the rack directly on the car.

To adjust the rack, you will need a special wrench, which is inserted into the adjusting nut in the steering mechanism housing. You can make this key yourself, but it is sold in any store, it costs a penny, and it never hurts to have it in your arsenal of tools. In addition, it will significantly facilitate the work not only when adjusting, but also when disassembling the rack if necessary.

The VAZ-2114 rack is adjusted as follows:

It is advisable to install the car either on an overpass or on a lift. You can adjust the rack from under the hood, but you have to work almost by touch.

We install the car on lifts or overpass

We remove the crankcase protection and the engine mudguard from below.
We clean the steering rack from dirt and check its condition visually. There should be no grease leaks on it, the anthers should be intact.
The rack must be firmly fixed to the engine shield, the steering rods must not have any play at the point of attachment to the rack.

We find the adjusting nut and clean it of dust and dirt. It comes with a plastic plug installed from the factory. It needs to be dismantled.
Using a special wrench, we tighten the adjusting nut, which is screwed into the steering mechanism housing. The nut can be tightened with a core, so after adjustment it is also necessary to fix it.

Tighten the adjusting nut with a special wrench

Adjustment is carried out by tightening the nut until it stops, after which the play on the steering wheel is checked. If the force on it is too strong, the nut is released a few degrees.
After adjustment, the nut must be fixed by rolling, otherwise there is a possibility that it will unscrew spontaneously.

Having chosen the play, we do not hide the tool, but do a test drive, during which we evaluate the operation of the steering mechanism. If the steering wheel rotates freely and there is no play, the adjustment can be considered complete. If the steering wheel turns too tight, it is better to loosen the adjusting nut a little by turning it a few degrees counterclockwise.

How to extend the life of a node that causes a malfunction

The service life of the VAZ 2114 steering rack is 100,000 km, but then a complete replacement of the mechanism is required.
Elements and structural parts of the unit wear out unevenly; in addition, the quality of the road surface and driving style affect the durability of the mechanism. As a result, the steering rack of the VAZ 2114 knocks and breaks, here’s what can be done to extend its service:

Sharp turns of the steering wheel, especially when leaving a parking lot, with a cold engine, or starting with the wheels turned, contribute to rapid wear of the entire chassis. The rack and pinion mechanism, in this case, suffers the most. So, turning the steering wheel smoothly and carefully and carefully leaving the garage or parking lot will help you avoid the need for repairs longer.
Reckless driving over bumps and potholes, taking obstacles such as potholes and speed bumps at full speed leads to a rack malfunction in a very short time. Impacts from this driving style deform or break the mechanism shaft and rack. Therefore, experienced drivers and auto mechanics recommend driving through tram or railway tracks, speed bumps, curbs and holes carefully, at low speed, avoiding impacts.
Frequent inspection and timely replacement of damaged parts. Oil seals, anthers, everything that protects the structure from dust and dirt must be sealed, without cracks or breaks.

The quality of assembly, parts, and road surfaces also affect the service life of the mechanism. But these are given values. When replacing the steering rack, you can pay attention to units with power steering (power steering), although such units were not initially provided for the VAZ 2114.

Such units are more reliable and last longer, but there is an additional source of breakdowns - power steering. The design of the VAZ 2114 steering rack is such that you can carry out tuning yourself by installing a hydraulic booster. All components of VAZ vehicles are repairable and simple, so tuning or repair does not cause any particular difficulties even for beginners.

The steering rack of the VAZ 2114 is knocking

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The rack is pressed against the gear by a metal-ceramic stop 44 by spring force. The rack stop is sealed in the crankcase with a rubber ring 41. The spring is pressed against the stop by a nut 43 with a locking ring 42. This ring creates resistance to unscrewing the nut. When assembling the steering mechanism, the nut is installed so that there is a gap of up to 0.12 mm between it and the stop. This gap is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of parts so that the steering mechanism does not jam. Additionally, the nut is fixed by opening it in two opposite places. Due to the spring-loaded stop 44, backlash-free engagement of the gear is ensured along the entire length of the latter. It feels like this adjusting bolt is somehow unscrewing itself.

El Diabolo Encarnado wrote: If the play is not removed or you have to pull so that the steering wheel is twisted, the rack is worn out. If there is play back and forth (in the direction of travel), the plastic support sleeve is worn out. +1

If there are signs of wear on the rack teeth, change the rack (not the entire steering mechanism, but only the rack), the plastic bushing definitely needs to be replaced

A friend told me that this gap doesn’t matter, nothing will fall off. And if nothing falls off, why change a rack that costs more than 2 pieces?

And where is the guarantee that the new one will not knock after 10 thousand.

There was a problem as the author. I got a car with a mileage of 49,000 km, it was knocking (you could say the steering rack was knocking), it didn’t bother me much, but by 60,000 km it was already getting really bad (when braking on bumps, there was a knock on the steering wheel and the car could be slightly moved off the trajectory).

I came to the service center - one SPECIALIST came out (younger than me), the verdict - the wear was just terrible (kick-ass), the steering rack was replaced. Price about 2000 rubles. + work 700.

I went to my garage friend Uncle Vasya.

On his advice, I bought a complete repair kit for the rack (it cost about 400 rubles, all its guts were there, I bought it at Autofastener, with the possibility of returning unused spare parts).

We disassembled the rack - and there were defects: the plastic bushing had become loose (its price was 80 rubles), they changed it, lubricated it, reassembled it, now the car has a mileage of 95,000 km. During this time, ONE time I slightly tightened the rack myself and that’s it (and only because I gave the car to my sister so that the extra knocks wouldn’t bother her).

So, there is no need to guess: go to the service center, disassemble the rack, diagnose it and make a decision. If the body is intact, the offal can be sorted out and reassembled conscientiously.

The steering wheel wobbles slightly, but there is no play.

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#1 Valdemario

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93 messages
Registration 17-February 09

I have such a problem, the steering wheel seems to be in perfect order, but if you grab it and pull it stupidly up and down, it seems to be a little loose. At first I thought it was a nut, I tightened it, but to no avail. I showed it to the mechanic and he says it’s not a backlash, it’s no big deal on old cars. Right now the new spare parts are so bad that it will be even worse.

But I still don’t understand how this is treated and what needs to be replaced? The steering wheel itself costs from 2107.

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#2 cqe

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1,359 messages

Registration 16-May 08

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#3 ajm

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16,507 messages

Registration 29-August 07

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#4 Andrey Kuzma

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4,118 messages

Registration 16-December 06

From: Kyiv, Bereznyaki
Car: VAZ 21011 + ZAZ Lanos 1.5

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#5 Voodoo Child

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782 messages

Registration 11-January 09

but if you grab it and stupidly pull it up and down

If up to down is the same as to yourself and from yourself, then this happened to me. I tried to tighten it as Andrey Kuzma wrote with a socket head and a wrench. So the bolt burst (it’s special, hardened), but the shaft did not clamp onto the splines. Moreover, in my case it turned out to be very easy to overdo it.

I understand that the splines on the shaft were already worn out, so I replaced the shaft, and now there is no longitudinal play.

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#6 Andrey Kuzma

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4,118 messages

Registration 16-December 06

From: Kyiv, Bereznyaki
Car: VAZ 21011 + ZAZ Lanos 1.5

Moreover, in my case it turned out to be very easy to overdo it.

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#7 Voodoo Child

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782 messages

Registration 11-January 09

AndreyKuzma I first looked at the manual for the second time https://www.redmotor. az2101/377.html

True, I limited myself to 12 somewhere, I was afraid to go further. maybe my key is not very good. Pull and pull, but he's still 12 and 12 :puppy:

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#8 Valdemario

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93 messages

Registration 17-February 09

Thanks for the advice, but it seems to me that the steering wheel and the shaft are not loose. The shaft seems to be normal, but the steering wheel itself seems to be moving in the steering column.

Added after 2 minutes 17 seconds:

there is a plastic bushing on the steering shaft, it works over time, it is located between the shaft and the tube to which the headlight and turn control levers are attached, if you remove the steering wheel you can see it or at least the casing

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#9 AndreyKuzma

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4,118 messages

Registration 16-December 06

From: Kyiv, Bereznyaki
Car: VAZ 21011 + ZAZ Lanos 1.5

Bolt securing the steering shaft to the worm shaft M8

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#10cqe

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1,359 messages

Registration 16-May 08

I have a steering wheel from 2107, I removed the upper casing, except for the bolt, I didn’t find anything similar

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#11 Valdemario

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93 messages

Registration 17-February 09

Damn, today I discovered this, the backlash is not only to the right - to the left, etc.

But even if you pull towards yourself and then back (((

At first I thought that it was enough to tighten the nut under the hood, it’s hanging there, but it’s only tightened to the maximum?

So that means everything has arrived? How dangerous is this? Is it possible to drive like this or not?

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#12 Voodoo Child

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782 messages

Registration 11-January 09

Valdemario I went like this for six months. I won't say that I liked it.

In the end, in general, when starting off, the shaft always moved towards itself along the axis, and just like that you would pull it off the gearbox.

But by the way, when I changed it, I barely took it off. Although he was hanging out, he didn’t want to continue filming for long.

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#13 ajm

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Registration 29-August 07

tighten the nut, under the hood, it’s hanging there,

put a hardened bolt with a good thread, a normal bolt under it and tighten it) should help

although I was hanging out, I didn’t want to act further

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#14 Voodoo Child

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Registration 11-January 09

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#15 Valdemario

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93 messages

Registration 17-February 09

put a hardened bolt with a good thread, a normal bolt under it and tighten it) should help

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#16 M&M'S

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Registration 05-July 09

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Steering rack repair for VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115

The steering rack is a mandatory, indispensable element of the steering of a car. This device converts the driver's efforts on the steering wheel inside the car, ensuring the wheels of the car turn and, accordingly, change the direction of movement. Over time, like any part, it wears out, and an unpleasant knocking noise appears, especially audible when cornering and while driving on uneven roads. This knock, firstly, is annoying, but it clearly makes it clear that something is wrong with the car. You should not ignore the knocking, because one day the rack may simply jam, and the steering wheel will lock in one position, and only braking and a complete stop can save you.

Note! You will need the following tools: a special 17 octagon wrench, a chisel with a hammer, a vice, a set of all kinds of wrenches (spanners, wrenches, socket wrenches) and screwdrivers, and pliers.

When to repair the rack?

In general, the rack is repaired to replace its protective cover or other parts. Let's look at the symptoms of the malfunction: the rack began to knock on bumps and turns, or when turning. Place the steering wheel in the forward direction of travel and try to grab the rack with your hands and shake it. Grab it at the junction of the steering rods, indicated by the arrow in the photo. Before doing this, shake the steering wheel a little until it turns easily.

Note! The rack deteriorates from many things, but most of all from driving on uneven roads. In general, this causes the suspension to fail faster, so avoid bumps if possible and reduce speed on bumps and dirt roads.

CV joint (grenade)

If you hear a knock when turning, and especially when the steering wheel is fully turned, this indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint - constant velocity joint. The knocking noise occurs when the joint hits the wheel while turning. The inner CV joints crunch and knock without any turning. It is enough to be on an uneven road, or the car is driving at high speed. Characteristic crunching sounds indicate that the grenade is malfunctioning. If the CV joint fails, you should not try to repair it; you should completely replace this unit. If the hinge is in good condition, then it is enough to treat it with lubricant.