Ignition switch VAZ 2110 wiring diagram

The ignition switch in a VAZ 2110 car , like on any other, is designed to switch electrical circuits and turn on the starter. Therefore, if it fails, then you will no longer be able to start the car.

It should be noted that the ignition switch is a tool for starting / stopping the engine, it can open or close certain groups of contacts, so when the lock is broken, the engine will not be powered. So if you have problems with it, then you will definitely need an electrical circuit diagram and a wiring diagram for the lock on the VAZ 2110 in order to check and repair it.

VAZ ignition switch pinout

The ignition switch in cars of the VAZ family fails from time to time due to weakening of the contact posts or burning of the contacts inside it. It also happens that the cams of a plastic roller are produced. You can disassemble the lock and clean it, but it’s better to just replace it with a new one, considering that it costs pennies compared to imported locks.

But if connecting the wires together did not result in the starter operating (or it did not turn on the first time), check the solenoid relay on the starter. The contact spots on it may also burn out, which will prevent the circuit from closing normally. Alternatively, you can use a screwdriver to short-circuit the two large terminals on the solenoid relay (before doing this, put the car in neutral and use the handbrake). When closed, the starter should begin to spin vigorously. If this happens, remove and change the solenoid relay. If the starter rotates “sluggishly” when it closes, you will have to remove it and check the condition of the brushes.

All operations are performed with your own hands, without the help of car service specialists. Moreover, the price of an ignition switch on a VAZ2106 is up to 100 rubles. To replace it, you will need to know the pinout of the wires coming from it, for which the editors of the site 2 Schemes.ru have prepared a large reference material.

The ignition switch is designed not only to start the engine - it performs several functions at once:

  1. supplies voltage to the vehicle’s on-board network, closing the circuits of the ignition system, lighting, sound alarm, additional devices and instruments;
  2. at the driver’s command, turns on the starter to start the power plant and turns it off;
  3. turns off the power to the on-board circuit, preserving the battery charge;
  4. protects the car from theft by fixing the steering shaft.

Instructions for removing the element

For disassembly you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

  • 10 mm head and ratchet drive;
  • Phillips screwdriver;
  • narrow chisel (width 5-8 mm);
  • hammer;
  • round nose pliers with tapered, curved ends.

Ignition switch replacement tool

To successfully install a new or repaired lock in place, it is advisable to purchase 4 special fastening bolts with M6 threads with a head size of 10 mm and a length of 20 mm. Their feature is the heads that come off with a key at a certain tightening torque. After tearing off the heads, semicircular caps remain on the surface, which are much more difficult to unscrew for an untrained person. But you will have to do this during disassembly.

The battery must be disconnected before starting work.

Like any event related to tampering with the electrical part of the car, dismantling the ignition switch begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then proceed in this order:

  1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the two halves of the plastic frame of the steering column together.
  2. Lower the handle that fixes the position of the steering wheel during adjustment all the way down and remove the plastic panels. Disconnect the ignition switch block and carefully cut the tape connecting your bundle of wires to the common harness. In order not to cling to the steering column switch during operation, it can also be pulled out of the connector.
  3. On the metal casing of the steering column you will see a lock mount consisting of two clamps. They are held together by 4 bolts with the heads torn off (visible on the left side). Pointing the chisel at the semicircular caps, use a hammer to loosen the tightening of these bolts one by one.
  4. Using pliers and then your hands, unscrew all 4 bolts and remove the ignition switch.

Unscrewing the plastic steering column cover

Bolts with intact heads can be unscrewed with a wrench

At the stage of disconnecting the connectors, it becomes possible to check the functionality of the contact group by measuring resistance, as described in the previous section. If you remove the lock due to the loss of the keys and want to move on, then after dismantling you need to do the following:

  1. On the “mother” block, which remains hanging after the lock is turned off, find contacts with thick wires of purple and blue color (the latter with a black stripe).
  2. Connect these terminals with any conductor, after which the ignition will turn on.
  3. The thick red wire leads to the starter. To start, its contact must be temporarily connected to the installed jumper. When the engine starts, the red wire must be disconnected.

This is how jumpers are inserted into the block to start the engine without a key.

After unscrewing the fasteners and disconnecting the wires, the lock can be easily removed from the car

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order, but taking into account the following precautions:

  • do not tighten the fastening bolts until you have accurately aligned the position of the lock on the casing so that the facing plastic panel fits smoothly into place;
  • before final tightening the bolts, make sure that the lock snaps into place when turning the steering wheel, otherwise adjust the position of the lock;
  • The tightening torque should be such that the heads of the new bolts come off and the round heads remain.

When installing and tightening the bolts, their heads should come off

If you think that special fasteners are not an obstacle for car thieves, then you can screw in regular bolts with M6 threads and carefully tighten them.

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2101 - VAZ-2107

The ignition switch on these cars is located to the left of the steering column. It is fixed directly to it using two fixing bolts. The entire mechanism of the device, except for the upper part in which the keyhole is located, is hidden by a plastic casing.

On the visible part of the ignition switch housing, special marks are applied in a certain order, allowing inexperienced drivers to navigate the lock activation mode when the key is in the hole:

  • “” – a mark indicating that all systems, devices and instruments that can be turned on using the lock are turned off (this does not include the cigarette lighter, interior lighting, brake light, and in some cases the radio);
  • I ” is a mark informing that the vehicle’s on-board network is powered from the battery. In this position, the key is fixed independently, and electricity is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater and windshield washer, instrumentation, headlights and light signaling;
  • II ” – engine start mark. It indicates that voltage is applied to the starter. The key does not lock in this position. If you release it, it will return to the "I" position. This is done so as not to subject the starter to unnecessary loads;
  • III ” – parking mark. If you remove the key from the ignition in this position, the steering column will be locked with a latch. It can only be unlocked by inserting the key back and turning it to position “0” or “I”.

The ignition switch has five contacts and, accordingly, five terminals, which are responsible for supplying voltage to the desired unit. All of them are numbered for convenience. Each pin corresponds to a wire of a certain color:

  • “50” – output responsible for supplying current to the starter (red or purple wire);
  • “15” – terminal through which voltage is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater, washer, and instrument panel (double blue wire with a black stripe);
  • “30” and “30/1” – constant “plus” (pink and brown wires, respectively);
  • “INT” – external lighting and light signaling (double black wire).

“Classics”, as well as the “Ninth” family

Fiat engineers, when developing the ignition switch for their 124 model, used two supply lines (“30” and “30/1”). The ignition line was the only one.

Another ignition circuit containing contact “15/2” was added during the transition to the “2109” family. It, in turn, is switched using a relay. In different families, only the diagram differs, but not the “behavior” of the car when the key is installed opposite the marks:

  1. Position 0: everything is off;
  2. Label 1: ignition and engine operation;
  3. Mark 2: starting the starter;
  4. Label 3: “Parking” mode.

To turn off the engine, turn the key to position “0”. The spark plugs lose spark and the engine stops.

The ignition switch module, if we talk about the “classic family”, is equipped with 5 terminals (see Fig. 2). Starting from the “2109” family, this solution is not used. Several wires come out of the lock cylinder and are connected to a remote connector.

The connector layout can be easily identified using the color coding (see diagram above). When carrying out any installation work, remember the following: you must turn off the engine, open the hood and disconnect one of the battery terminals. Usually the negative one is turned off.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099

Pinout according to the old type

Pinout of the VAZ-2109 ignition switch with unloading relay:

  1. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
  2. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
  3. comes +12V in position III (parking)
  4. position I, +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
  5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
  6. position I, +12V goes away after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
  7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
  8. comes +12V constantly.

New pinout type

Pinout of the new VAZ-2109 ignition switch:

  1. comes +12V constantly
  2. comes +12V constantly
  3. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
  4. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
  5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
  6. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
  7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
  8. comes +12V constantly.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2110:

  1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
  2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
  3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
  4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
  5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
  6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
  7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
  8. not used.

Useful: Pinout, connection diagram and checking the VAZ ignition coil

Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

  1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
  2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
  3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
  4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
  5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
  6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
  7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
  8. not used.

The structure of a car ignition switch

  1. Locking rod
  2. Frame
  3. Roller
  4. Contact disc
  5. Contact sleeve
  6. Block
  7. Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When you turn the ignition key, the electrical circuit is closed from the “-” terminal of the battery to the ignition coil. As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ car

To carry out repair work to replace the ignition switch of a vase, we will need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the repair. On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located at the bottom, on the left of the steering column. To replace you need:

  1. Disconnect battery
  2. Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws that secure it.
  3. Then unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.
  4. We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.
  5. Insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.
  6. After removal, it is recommended to mark the contact wires so that nothing is mixed up the next time you connect.

Removing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column casing. We unscrew the five bolts and remove its halves. Before you begin disassembling the electrical part of the lock, it is very useful to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After this, remove the spring retaining ring from the back of the lock body and remove the contact group. We move it to the side so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is secured in the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which nothing happens. It is useless to try to remove the lock from its socket if you do not know about the special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. We press this stopper into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is the anti-theft rod. Even though it is in a “disconnected” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock cylinder, the anti-theft device also moves and is recessed as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that assembly of the unit should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert the new lock into the bracket, recessing the latch and holding the key in the starter position, tighten the fastening bolts, then connect the wires. Particular attention must be paid to this, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We reconnect the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After this, we assemble the steering column casing.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, mounted on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock lock with a thin awl and remove the ignition switch from the mounting socket. This completes the repair work to remove the ignition switch.

On VAZ 2108 and higher models, a package with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of mixing up the wires when installing a new switch is completely eliminated. Well, on VAZ 2107 and lower models, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, so when removing each wire, it must be marked so as not to be confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, you need to use a thin screwdriver or an awl to pry the retaining ring from the edge and remove the contact part.
When installing a new contact part, orient it so that terminals “15” and “30” are on the side of the locking rod. At this point, the repair work is completed, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the markings from the old switch to the new one. The pinout or connection diagram of the VAZ ignition switch wires is quite simple and understandable, so every car enthusiast can carry out repairs or replace a spare part without the help of car service employees.

Installation of a new larva

To replace the lock core due to mechanical failure, remove it from the vehicle as described above. Then follow this algorithm:

  1. Insert the key into the slot and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 halves of the lock body together.
  2. Separate the housing while holding it with the key facing up. If you hold the lock in a different position during disassembly and do not insert the key, the insides will spill out and you will not understand how to put them back together. In this case, the ball with springs may get lost.
  3. Remove the locking mechanism, which consists of two spring-loaded parts, and pull out the spring itself.
  4. After removing the key, carefully remove the core so that the ball with the spring (located on the side of the cylinder) is not lost.

To disassemble the case, you need to unscrew 3 screws

Before replacing, it is necessary to remove the return spring from the old cylinder, since it is not sold complete with a new core. The spring is inside the part on the back side in a cocked state; it must be installed in the same form on the new cylinder. Also, do not forget to remove the thin spring from the hole where the ball is inserted.

The locking mechanism tongue peeks out from the bottom of the case

Important point. Remember that if you replace the core because it is broken, the new key will no longer fit the door lock. There are 2 options: use two separate keys or simultaneously change the cylinder in the door. The last method becomes the only applicable one when all the keys are lost.

The larva must be pulled out so as not to lose the details

When installing the core, you need to move the spring for the ball into the hole and insert the part into the body. Then push the larva all the way, while simultaneously inserting the ball into the socket. After that, all that remains is to assemble the locking mechanism and tighten the housing with screws. When finished, check the operation of the ignition switch by turning the key to different positions.

The ejection spring from the old core needs to be moved to the new one

Ignition switch VAZ 2110 circuit diagram, repair, lubrication

The ignition switch in a VAZ 2110 car, like on any other, is designed to switch electrical circuits and turn on the starter.
Therefore, if it fails, then you will no longer be able to start the car. It should be noted that the ignition switch is a tool for starting / stopping the engine, it can open or close certain groups of contacts, so when the lock is broken, the engine will not be powered. So if you have problems with it, then you will definitely need an electrical circuit diagram and a wiring diagram for the lock on the VAZ 2110 in order to check and repair it.

VAZ 2110 ignition switch diagram

Below is a visual diagram of the device itself and an electrical diagram for connecting the ignition switch; it is suitable for both the VAZ 2110 and its modifications - 2111 and 2112.

Wiring diagram for the ignition switch VAZ 2110

Electrical diagram of the ignition switch VAZ 2110

VAZ 2110 ignition switch pinout:

  1. Power +12 volts, which must be supplied to the inserted key sensor microswitch;
  2. The mass should come when the doors are opened on the driver's side;
  3. Source +12 volts, current must flow to the starter (with pin 50);
  4. The +12 volt source goes away after the ignition is turned on, for example, additional equipment: watch, DVR, etc. (contact is 15);
  5. There is also +12 volts when you insert the key into pin 5 of the on-board control system;
  6. The power supply is +12 volts, with the help of which the illumination of the ignition switch cylinder works;
  7. Power comes from +12 volts from the battery (pin 30);
  8. Do not use.

Current scheme

The pinout of the VAZ-2110 ignition switch used is quite clear and relatively uncomplicated. It involves 8 elements. To read it correctly, you need to know what each of them means.

Take a closer look at the pinout. It includes:

  1. Twelve-volt feed for the inserted key sensor switch.
  2. Power supply to the ground when opening the doors on the left driver's side.
  3. Sending twelve volt voltage to the starter.
  4. Activation of this source is carried out after the ignition is started, which allows you to put into operation additional equipment, including a clock, navigator, etc.
  5. Triggering occurs when the key is inserted, connection to the 5th contact.
  6. The backlight of the larva is started from a 12 V power supply.
  7. Twelve-volt battery source.
  8. The eighth contact is not connected, as it is a reserve.

The connector can only be connected in one position. You should not apply a lot of force to snap the dies, as they may break.

Ignition switch malfunctions

The ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 must be replaced if its operation cannot be restored in any way or the key is broken/lost. In other cases, they are usually repaired.

There are two groups of main breakdowns:

  1. The mechanics are faulty . The most common problem is the breakage of the larva. The keys are made of soft metal, so they are unreliable and can often simply break off. There is also a problem with the steering wheel locking or the key may simply get stuck when in the on position.
  2. Wear of the contact group . No matter what kind of damage you have, you will still have to dismantle the lock. If the tongue of the blocker is jammed, you will have to work hard to correct the situation. The contact group or larva is quite easy to repair.

The main reason for the breakdown of the contact group (burnout) is overloading the vehicle’s electrical equipment.

In order to check the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110, there are many instructions and methods, we will consider some of them.

Detailed instructions for checking faults in the ignition switch:

  1. The first thing to do is disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
  2. Remove the plastic cover of the steering column to get to the contacts of the pads, because it is with their help that power is connected to the car's electrical wiring. Next, disconnect the connector of the harness itself from the on-board network and pull it out.
  3. Next, you need to use an ohmmeter to check the resistance on the contacts themselves, while setting the key in position 1, 2 or 3. When the contacts are working, the resistance on them will be zero, but if it is infinity, then the lock is broken. If they burn slightly, the device will show slight resistance.
  4. In order to check the serviceability of the backlight, you need to apply a direct current with a voltage of 12V to contacts 2 and 6 of the wiring harness block. In this case, if the lamp lights up, everything is fine with it, but if not, there is a break in the electrical circuit or it simply burned out.
  5. If you see that contacts 15, 30 and 50 in the ignition switch are faulty, then you need to replace the entire contact group.

Problems with the ignition module

The ignition module is an electronic analogue of a distributor (see VAZ distributor design: the difference between contact and non-contact ignition systems and ignition timing adjustment) and an ignition coil. A faulty module can fail at the wrong moment, according to the famous law of meanness. Checking it and identifying malfunctions will take no more than an hour, but it will allow you to determine the approach of serious problems in time.

VAZ2110 ignition module

So:

  • The main symptom of a module malfunction is the absence of a spark in one or several cylinders at once.
  • In this case, the engine stalls or does not start at all.
  • The second common phenomenon is a failure in the timing of the ignition cycle, due to which it is impossible to coordinate the interaction of the piston and gas distribution system with the module
  • There are several methods for identifying module malfunctions

Repair of ignition switch VAZ 2110

The entire lock as a whole is not very expensive, although most of the breakdowns can be fixed quite easily; to do this you will need to dismantle it, disassemble it and then replace the parts that are faulty.

To replace the contact group of the VAZ 2110 ignition switch, you will first need to release the latches so that some of the parts can be freely removed from the body. After this you can easily install a new group. You will not be able to mix up the sides for installation, because the part simply will not fit on the other side.

Instructions for replacing the contact group:

  1. First you need to disconnect the plug that goes into the backlight. Using a screwdriver, you need to bend the 3 latches that are fixed by the plastic cover, then you can remove it from the lock.
  2. To gain access to the contact group, you need to bend 2 more latches.
  3. Then you need to inspect the light guide plate and check if there is a black coating and other deposits. If you find any, you can remove these defects with fine sandpaper. If after this there is no result, then you can replace it.
  4. Under the light guide plate there are 3 more plates, which are also prone to oxidation, as a result of which the contact group may malfunction. They can also be cleaned with sandpaper.

If you just want to do preventive maintenance for the contact group, then once every six months it is enough to lubricate the contacts with penetrating or graphite lubricant, which would effectively counteract oxide. Choosing a lubricant is a very serious and complex procedure. When buying, you should not take the cheapest one. I would like to note that there are several types of lubricants: light (not thick) and heavy (thick). Some car enthusiasts use aerosol penetrating lubricant “liquid key” or WD-40.

A replacement of the lock cylinder is carried out only if the car has been stolen or the key simply does not turn well in the lock. To change it, you will have to remove the protective plate from the outside of the part using a special slotted screwdriver. After dismantling, all you have to do is install a new part and periodically lubricate it with lubricant to extend the service life of the part (it is recommended to lubricate 2 times a year, before and after the autumn-winter season).

If the microswitch is broken, then you need to unscrew the screws from the housing, remove the rod and press the lock. After this, the switch can be easily removed and a new one installed in its place. Everything is put back into place, respectively, in the reverse order.

The backlight lamp is generally the easiest to replace; to do this, you need to remove the power connector, then you can carefully remove it using pliers.

To replace the ignition switch, you need to know some nuances.

Disassembly and replacement procedure

When the source of the malfunction is identified, the question immediately arises: how to disassemble the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110.

To do this, first it is removed. Since the preparatory work has already been done, the following actions remain:

  1. The housing mounting bolts are unscrewed.
  2. The lid made of plastic material is removed. The lock is removed.

Replacing the larva

Before changing the ignition switch on a VAZ, sometimes it is enough to replace the cylinder.

The process consists of several steps:

  1. A small diameter pin holding the cylinder is removed from the side. The work is carried out using a thin screwdriver and a hammer.
  2. The old larva is removed and the new one is installed.
  3. To check, the steering wheel is turned and the reliability of the jamming is checked.
  4. Sometimes the blocking is adjusted.

After replacing the used element, you need to know how to assemble the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110. This process occurs exactly in the reverse order.

Replacing the contact group

Knowing how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, this is not always necessary. Ingod the contact group fails, which, like the larva, changes.

Its replacement is carried out in the following order:

  1. All contacts are numbered before they are disconnected.
  2. Then they are disconnected.
  3. 2 latches are removed.
  4. The old group is removed and a new one is installed in its place.
  5. Then, in the reverse order, the assembly is assembled.

Complete lock replacement

Craftsmen who know how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with their own hands have long realized that this process is much easier than replacing individual structural parts.

After disconnecting the battery, removing the steering casing and unscrewing the bolts, the plug is disconnected and the lock is removed. This completes the operation to remove the old node. A new product is installed in its place.

If you still have questions about how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, I recommend watching this video:

Replacing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110

Replacing the lock with a new one is only necessary if it has already stopped working altogether or if a fairly serious breakdown has occurred; in all other cases, you can get by by replacing the failed parts.

The most common reasons for replacement:

  • if the car has been stolen;
  • if the key is lost;
  • breakdown of the contact group.

Instructions for replacing the ignition switch:

  1. To carry out this procedure, you need to use special bolts with tear-off heads; some motorists recommend replacing them with twenty-millimeter M6 bolts, which can be removed more quickly during repeated repairs;
  2. To loosen the bolts you will need a chisel; during use you need to be extremely careful not to break the bolt head;
  3. Immediately before replacing the ignition switch, you need to insert the key into it and turn it to position “I” so that the latch, which blocks the steering shaft mechanism, is in the lock body.
  4. Then you can put the ignition switch on the steering column and secure it with a bracket, also tighten it with bolts for fastening.
  5. After removing the key from the keyhole, you need to check whether the steering shaft locking mechanism works. If the shaft lock does not work, you will need to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column until the latch fits into the groove on the steering shaft.
  6. When the locking mechanism is working normally, then using a spanner wrench “10” you finally need to tighten the fastening bolts.

Ultimately, I would like to note that repairing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 is not very difficult to perform; you just need to try, and everyone will be able to follow a simple algorithm of actions in order to cope with the task.

Necessary tool

The first thing you need to do is turn off the negative voltage on the battery, and then remove the steering column cover. To make it easier to replace the cylinder, you need to completely remove the ignition switch. After this, replace the cylinder and install the lock in place.

Replacing the ignition switch contact group is perhaps the most profitable from a financial point of view. The disassembly sequence is not similar to the previous one, remove the casing and dismantle the lock. When disconnecting a contact group, I recommend marking all the wires being removed in order to avoid getting them mixed up; upon completion of the repair, this will save you from unnecessary headaches. By the way, some models have a locking ring, which requires an awl to remove; after replacing the contact group, do not forget to install the locking ring back.

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 is not the most difficult procedure, although, like many others, it is not without its own characteristics and nuances, without knowing which you can suffer quite a lot. Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 should be done as follows:

  1. It is imperative to use special bolts with tear-off heads; some recommend replacing them with regular twenty-millimeter M6 ones, but remember that in this way you are reducing the level of anti-theft protection of your car with your own hands;
  2. To loosen the bolts, you must use a chisel, but be careful not to accidentally cut the bolt head;
  3. Before installing a new ignition switch, you must insert the key into it and set it to position “I”. Crankshaft oil seal for VAZ 2110. Do-it-yourself replacement of the ignition switch for Ford Focus 2 with photo. VAZ 2110 8 valves oil seal replacement. This must be done so that the latch, which blocks the steering shaft mechanism, enters the lock body.
  4. Now you can install the ignition switch with mounting bracket on the steering column and tighten the new mounting bolts.
  5. After removing the key from the ignition switch, it is necessary to check the functioning of the steering shaft locking mechanism. If the shaft is not locked through a full rotation of the steering wheel, it is necessary to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column so that the lock latch fits into the groove on the steering shaft.
  6. When the adjustment has been made and the locking mechanism has been checked, using a 10 mm spanner, slowly tighten the bolts until their heads come off.

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110: wiring diagram

If the ignition switch fails, there is no time for jokes. In fact, without the functioning of this unit, you will not be able to start the car. Unless you use the method from movies, where the main characters rummage through the wires under the steering wheel, connect a couple of wires and start the car. And then, it’s far from a fact that it will work on your top ten.

Therefore, let’s better discuss the real problems with the lock, talk about the principle of its operation, the features of pinout and replacement.

Standard node

What if the spark is lost?

If the engine does not start, but sounds are made indicating that the fuel pump is working, you should pay attention to the operation of the ignition. First of all, you should check whether the spark has disappeared on the wires with high resistance

To do this, it is necessary to use a spark gap, as well as a Hall sensor, which checks the presence of a magnetic field.

Hall sensor The possibility of breaking high resistance wires is not worth it either. To do this, you can use a Hall sensor, which helps measure the current in conductors, as well as their resistance

To check the operation of the ignition coils, you should pay attention to whether there are any error codes on the controller. If there is no spark after replacing the coil, then the controller is faulty

Device Features

Let's start with some basic things you should be aware of before embarking on a replacement or repair.

  1. The ignition switch (IZ) is the main element of the car's starting system. You will not be able to start the engine without it.
  2. The lock has a built-in anti-theft system. Therefore, if the protection does not work, the risk of becoming a victim of car thieves increases significantly.
  3. The ZZ is capable of blocking the starter from being turned on again, but without initially turning off the ignition.
  4. For tens, the key can be removed from the lock when it is in the “zero” position. By taking it out, you will thereby extend a special rod, which is responsible for the anti-theft functions.
  5. If the key moves from position zero to “one”, then the locking rod goes away and the ignition contacts close.
  6. When the car is started, all electrical equipment receives power and is energized. This applies to the dashboard, headlights, generator, windshield wipers, power windows, heater, turn signals, etc.
  7. By turning the key to position “two”, you thereby close another group of contacts, which makes it possible to apply voltage to the starter relay. This will start the engine and you can drive.

Key position

  • The main position is “0” when the system is completely de-energized;
  • O will indicate that the system is active and turned on. It is possible to turn on the dimensions, headlights, direction indicators, windshield wipers, the informative instrument panel lights up, the stove heater is activated, the heated filaments of the rear window of the car glow, a lamp on the console shows the status of the units;
  • Key on: the car's power unit is started. But to start the engine itself, moving the key to position “II” is not enough. You need to turn it a little further until it stops. Voltage will be supplied to the car starter, which will start the engine. After a successful start, the key will return to position “II”, the starter will turn off, and the internal combustion engine will continue to operate. Sometimes the engine does not start the first time.

Reasons for replacement

It is necessary to replace the entire lock or just the contact group, depending on the nature of the breakdown and the situation with your car. Therefore, we will consider options when replacement may still be required.

Reason for replacementYour actions
There was an attempted theft, as a result of which the integrity of the lock was compromisedIn this case, only the contact group and the cylinder can be replaced, since the lock itself is most likely intact. Lower costs and required repair efficiency. Although experts advise purchasing a new lock right away and installing it
The keys were lost and there was no spareThere is no point in trying to find a master who will turn you exactly the same key as before. You will have to purchase a lock and install it on your car
Problems with contacts or contact groupIt is not difficult to check whether this is really the problem. Turn off the battery by disconnecting the negative terminal, then remove the cover under the steering column and check the wires for resistance. Switch the key alternately to positions 1,2 and 3, while measuring the resistance. If the ohmmeter shows “zero”, then the lock really has a problem and needs to be replaced.
There was a desire to improve the castleOften, car owners replace the standard ignition with a more modern one, equipped with lighting. It is not expensive, but it is convenient to use in the dark. No need to fumble for the key slot

When checking the contact group, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, otherwise a short circuit will occur, and not only the contactor will have to be replaced.


Pinout in photo

Circuit and pinout

First of all, get acquainted with the lock diagram and wire connection diagram, which will allow you to better understand the features of the 3Z pinout.

As you can see, the pinout includes 8 elements. What does each of them mean and what functions are they responsible for? We'll figure out.

  1. Power supply for the inserted key sensor microswitch (+12Volt).
  2. Power supply to ground when doors are opened on the driver's side.
  3. Power supply that supplies current to the starter (+12Volt, pin 50 on the diagram).
  4. Source at +12Volt. Activated after turning on the ignition. Power supply for additional equipment, such as video recorders, clocks, etc. (pin 15 in the diagram).
  5. Source at +12 Volts. Triggers when the key is inserted. Goes to pin 5.
  6. Power supply +12Volt. The illumination of the 3Z larva is activated.
  7. +12V source from the battery (pin 30 in the diagram).
  8. Not active.


Wiring

Dismantling

If previous activities have shown that intervention in the design of the ignition switch is required, work in any case will begin with dismantling the device.

We have special step-by-step instructions for this.

  1. To begin, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery of your VAZ 2110. This way you will ensure your safety and the safety of all wiring. You know what the consequences of a short circuit are.
  2. Next, remove the casing on the steering column. This is how you gain access to the castle.
  3. If you feel that the rotary switches will interfere with your work, it is better to remove them immediately. The work does not last for a couple of minutes, so all irritants should be put aside.
  4. Armed with a chisel and hammer, unscrew the mounting bolts with round heads. Don't get confused, they are the only ones there. Try to perform this operation as carefully as possible so as not to knock off the bolt head.
  5. Now take the pliers and remove the bolts.
  6. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to position zero. This will disable the anti-theft system.
  7. Next in line is the bracket that held the previously removed bolts and the ignition switch itself.
  8. Mark the contact wires using different colored markers. Otherwise, you can easily mix them up during reassembly.
  9. Often it is not necessary to completely replace the lock, but only partial repairs. For example, change the backlight bulb, or fix a microswitch problem.
  10. Disconnect the connectors that used to operate the ignition switch.
  11. To replace the backlight bulb, disconnect the corresponding connectors, and then use pliers to remove the bulb.
  12. To replace the contacts, use a screwdriver to press out the special latches.
  13. Using a shaped screwdriver, unscrew three screws, after which you can remove the rod.
  14. Use a regular flathead screwdriver to pry out the clips and remove the microswitch.
  15. Next, new ones are inserted in place of the dismantled elements.


Checking status

How to remove and install the part?

If the ZZ is not working, then it needs either repair or replacement. The ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 is replaced only if the device cannot be restored or repaired. In all other cases, you can and should try to repair it.

So, for repairs, do not forget to disconnect the battery and follow these steps:

  1. First of all, you need to unscrew the screws that secure the mechanism. First, the on-board network is de-energized; to do this, remove the “-” terminal from the battery. After the plastic cover is removed, the steering column switches are disabled. In this process, removing the bolts is one of the most difficult steps. This is because VAZ engineers initially thought through this point so that in the event of a vehicle break-in, an attacker would not be able to quickly unscrew the unit. Therefore, even at production, the edges of the screws are cut off, so you will have to use a chisel to dismantle the screw. Using a chisel, you only need to move the heads a little from their place, after which the bolts can be unscrewed without any problems using pliers.
  2. When the protection is removed, it is necessary to understand what the essence of the problem is. If you need to replace the backlight bulb, you should first disconnect the connector. Using small pliers, remove the lamp socket itself. Just replace it with a new one and install it back.
  3. If the problem lies in the operation of the contact group, then you need to either repair it or replace it. As practice shows, repairs often give the necessary results. However, the cost of new elements for a contact group is often not much lower than the price of the group itself. So, to prevent possible problems in the future, it is advisable to completely change the group. To replace using a screwdriver, you simply need to press the latches and remove the component. In the same way, only in reverse order, a new one is installed in accordance with the ignition switch diagram.
  4. If you need to change the key controller switch, use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove three bolts. Then the rod is removed from the structure, and then the latch is released and the switch itself is dismantled. Finally, you just need to install a new element in place of the old one.
  5. As for installation, in general there is nothing complicated about it - all steps must be repeated, only in reverse order. But during the installation there is one point that should be taken into account. Before starting reassembly, set the key in the lock to the first position. In this position, locking the steering wheel will be impossible. Therefore, the latch, located on the shaft itself and performing the function of a lock, should easily fit into the corresponding connector on the 3Z itself. Only after these steps can the device be installed. In addition, for installation you will need new 3Z fixing fixtures, since it will be impossible to install the old ones. When installation is complete, you need to make sure that the steering wheel will lock when the key is removed. If this does not happen, then you will also have to adjust the position of the ZZ on the column.
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