In a working ignition switch of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars, certain electrical circuits must close when the key is turned. If this does not happen, then at a minimum some consumers will not work, and at most the car will not start. When searching for faults in the electrical circuits of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars, do not forget to check the ignition switch.
— tester (multimeter or similar device in ohmmeter mode). If you don't have a tester, you can use a test lamp (a 12 V light bulb with soldered wires).
Preparatory work
— remove the lower part of the plastic steering column cover to facilitate access to the ignition switch connecting block.
Checking the ignition switch of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
— find and disconnect the connecting block of the ignition switch under the instrument panel;
— on the part of the wiring harness block leading to the ignition switch, we check that its contacts are properly closed in a certain sequence.
Turn the key in the ignition switch to the available 3 positions. We use the tester in ohmmeter mode, press its terminals to the closed contacts of the lock, or apply the positive from the battery through a test lamp to one terminal being tested, the negative from the battery to the other. If the contacts close, the tester should show the presence of some resistance, the control lamp will light up. Otherwise, the resistance tends to infinity, the control lamp does not light up.
Sequence of contact closure in the ignition switch of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099
1. Key position in the ignition switch is 0 (off). Live contacts 30 and 30/1
The terminals in the block are brown and pink wires.
2. The position of the key in the ignition switch is 1 (ignition). Live Contacts - 30 and INT (exterior lighting, instrument lighting, high beam alarm), 30/1 and 15/1 (alternator field winding, ignition system, windshield wiper, carburetor solenoid valve control unit, turn signals, reverse light , control devices), 30-15/2 (low and high beam headlights. Fog light, headlight cleaners, rear window cleaner, rear window heating, washer, heater fan, cooling system fan).
The terminals in the block are black and pink, brown and white, brown and blue wires.
3. The key position in the ignition switch is 2 (starter). Live contacts – 30 and 50, 30/1 and 15/1, 30 and INT (starter).
Pink and red.
3. The key position in the ignition switch is 3 (parking). Live contacts - 30 and INT, 30 and 1-P (all electrical circuits listed in paragraph 2). Contact "P" until 1988 was used to turn on the parking lights.
The terminals in the block are black and pink wires from the ignition switch.
Device
On the VAZ-2109 you can find the ignition of a new, as well as an old model.
Older models have 4 positions, a long key and a relay. The new ones have 3 positions and a short key, but there is no relay at all. The ignition switch in the VAZ-2109, as well as in other cars, is designed to perform two functions: to lock the steering column (mechanical) and to close contacts when turning the key (electrical). The electrical part works depending on the turn of the key:
- car de-energized – 0;
- voltage supplied to the entire electrical network – 1;
- supplying current only to the starter – 2;
- turning on emergency lighting.
What is
First, let's look at the structure of the castle. Let's find out what it looks like, what it consists of, what its operating principle is, and so on:
- As mentioned, the ignition switch is a very important element of the VAZ 2109 car, because almost all available equipment is connected to it.
Note. Although there are components that do not depend on the lock in any way. Here they are: license plate lights, brake lights, parking lights, hazard lights, interior lights and lights on the dashboard.
- There are different types of ignition switches: new or old type. The first version without a relay has three positions and a short key, the second with a relay has four positions and a long key.
Scheme
Below is a typical diagram of the ignition switch on the “nine”.
Malfunctions
Considering that the ignition switch is designed to perform two functions, all breakdowns are divided into mechanical and electrical. Mechanical malfunctions include jamming of the cylinder in one of the positions when it is impossible to turn the key. Contact group, which is time to change when the car engine does not start when you turn the key or deformation has occurred.
Electrical faults can occur in any position of the key, as they are associated with a violation of the integrity of the electrical network.
In a situation where there is no contact, all components of the system do not function. If there is a contact in the wrong place, a short circuit and overheating will occur, which will lead to the need to install a new lock.
Ignition replacement and check
To replace the ignition switch, you need to perform all the steps in a certain sequence:
- Before replacing, you must remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Remove the steering column cover and the two switches located under the steering wheel.
- After this, you need to insert the key into the ignition switch and set it to the zero position. This is necessary for the anti-theft device to be disabled.
- Next, unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the ignition switch. If bolts with sheared heads are installed, knock them down using a hammer and chisel.
- After unscrewing (knocking down) the bolts, remove them from the holes using pliers.
- On the left side, remove the bracket, and then on the right side, remove the ignition switch.
- Then disconnect the wire block from the electrical connector.
- Get under the dashboard and disconnect the ignition switch connectors from the relay.
Installing a new lock must be done step by step in reverse order.
To check the contacts on the wire block, use an ohmmeter. The device must display zero. If his readings are different, change the contact group.
To change a contact group, you need to do the following:
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw that secures the cover.
- Bend back the plastic latches that hold the cover in place, then remove it.
- Remove the contact group.
The contact group is also installed in the reverse order.
Not in all cases it will be possible to find four bolts on the steering column on a VAZ-2109. On some models it can be secured with two bolts and a hook.
Preparation
At the preparation stage, you will need to collect the necessary tools near you, which will be useful in the process of dismantling and installing a new ignition switch. You will also have to remove the steering cover and steering column shifters. Doing this is quite difficult, but we will tell you step by step about all the nuances of these preparatory activities. So you can easily figure out for yourself how to remove the ignition switch on a VAZ 2114.
Tools you will need:
- Phillips strong screwdriver;
- Open-end wrench 10 millimeters;
- Chisel;
- Hammer;
- Pliers or pliers;
- New ignition switch assembly;
- Lock mounting screws (4 pieces).
Now let's move on to the casing and switches. For more convenient work, many advise removing the steering column switches and the steering wheel itself. Dismantling the casing is performed in the following sequence:
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Nobody has yet canceled the requirements for personal safety and protection against electric shocks;
- Unscrew the three screws securing the two parts of the casing. A screwdriver is useful for this;
- Unscrew the screw that connects the housing to the connector of the steering column switches;
- Remove the two screws that hold the lower housing to the steering column;
- The lever that fixes the column at the corner leads down;
- The steering wheel also goes down;
- The lower casing is then removed;
- The power supply from the emergency lights must be disconnected;
- Now you can remove the top casing;
- To dismantle the steering column switches, you need to act one by one;
- Simultaneously press both latches and thereby remove the elements from their seats;
- Disconnect them from the power supply.
How to remove the ignition switch on a VAZ 2109
The ignition switch has been bothering me lately, or rather at the most inopportune moments. It was stuck (would not turn) in the ignition → starter position. It was especially infuriating when you were standing at a gas station, in a traffic jam, on railway tracks, etc. Yesterday I went after work and again such crap. Each time you disassemble the steering column housing, remove the lock itself and use WD40 to open up the half-jammed steering lock again. The lock was original DAAZ. The base itself and the blocker seemed to be made of duralumin, and there were millimeter-long scuffs on the blockers and it sometimes jammed inside the lock.
Yesterday I decided to finally disassemble the lock and sharpen the blocker itself so that this would not happen again. I guessed that there must be springs and other crap that likes to fly away into nowhere or into the eye. He carefully disassembled it and began to grind down the two planes of the lock, only returning to the second part of the lock without touching it yet, and a spring and a small ball shoot out in an unknown direction.
Ipona mother... Searching for details in a room of 60 m² is tantamount to finding a needle in a haystack. Long story short, I put it back together. Everything seems to be working. I connect it and check if everything is working fine. I think it’s strange, what for then is that spring and ball?! installed everything in reverse order. I went to the store and started the car, everything was OK, but only the dimensions worked, after shaking the key, the heater and the low beam started working. So that's what those little parts did.
It turns out that when the key was returned to position II after starting the engine, position 15/2, which is responsible for ( Low and high beam headlights. Fog light. Headlight cleaners. Rear window cleaner. Rear window heating. Washer. Heater fan, was not fixed (did not turn on). Engine cooling fan
). I tried to turn on autostart, but it also started turning on somehow miraculously. I decided not to experiment with such a lock and buy a new one, because... Winter is coming and autostart is needed, what if the starter sticks with such a lock or something else and repairs will be much more expensive than now forking out for a new lock. In general, thought and done. I bought an original DAAZ lock at a wholesale price; I found out in the store it costs 1000-1250 rubles.
NEW IN PLACE
All the best and good ignition!
Changing the ignition switch is, in principle, not such a difficult task. The price of an ignition switch for a VAZ 2109 is about 700 rubles. We will learn below how to replace the ignition switch on a nine.
From the tool we will need a 10mm socket and a driver, we can use a ratchet.
First of all, you need to disconnect the battery. Now you need to remove the steering column cover. Next, unscrew the fastening bolts that tighten the clamp of the VAZ 2109 ignition switch.
Now we separate the two clamps so that they stop interlocking.
We remove the lock from the steering column, lowering it down.
Disconnect the plugs with wires.
Now you need to disconnect the largest plug by sticking your hand a little under the panel.
As a result, we see the following picture.
We install the ignition switch of a VAZ 2109 car in the reverse order.
Power-up modes used
Lada 2105 Bright White 15 R Logbook Installation of steering column switches for a Chevrolet Niva ignition switch for a VAZ 2110
At each of the turns, the connection of certain devices is provided. There are markings in a circle in front of the socket indicating the position to which a certain mode corresponds.
Null
To activate this mode, just insert the key into the “secret”. In this case, devices that are directly connected to the battery remain active.
Additional consumers will be put into operation after the larva is rotated at a certain angle. Voltage is supplied to pins 30/1 and 30.
The first is “ignition”
In the first position, the driver can turn on the front lighting, such as the low and high headlights. The tidy and interior light up responsively. The connection diagram for the VAZ-2109 ignition switch is activated during this turn, releasing current to the 30–INT pair.
When there is a connection between terminals 30/1 and 15/1, the rear lights, reversing lights, turn signals are operational, and the generator excitation winding is energized. The XX solenoid valve also receives power.
In this position, contacts 30/1 and 15/2 are closed, which ensures the operation of, in addition to the head light optics, the functioning of the fog lights, the rear window wiper and its heating. The headlight cleaners, heater fan and engine cooling system propeller are connected to this contact.
The second is the “starter”
By moving the key to the current position, the driver does not block the connection of electrical consumers that were started in the previous “ignition” position. This fully applies to both the closed contacts of the pair 30/1 - 15/1, and to the pair 30 - INT.
The main change that the VAZ-2109 ignition switch connection diagram provides in such a situation is the activation of a pair of contacts 30–50. This allows the starter to start.
Third – “parking”
At this angle of rotation, consumers started in the “ignition” position and closed contacts 30 – INT remain activated. A closed pair 30/1 - P is also added. It is responsible for the parking lighting.
Replacing the ignition lock cylinder of a VAZ 2109 with your own hands
Ignition switch for vases with cylinder assembly
The ignition switch cylinder of the VAZ 2109, despite its small size and completely inconspicuous location, together with the lock, plays the main role in the operation of the vehicle systems. Therefore, the failure of such a small unit can completely paralyze the operation of the entire car.
The ignition switch is used to turn on the power to the entire ignition and engine starting system, windshield wipers, reversing lights, turn indicators, and in some modifications even the radio and headlights. In addition, on some cars the ignition switch is additionally equipped with an anti-theft device that blocks the steering wheel from turning.
On a VAZ 2109, replacing the lock cylinder is very simple. It is only important to study the execution sequence and choose a tool.
Testing the serviceability
The lock's service life is limited. After it fails, it is necessary to repair or completely replace the product. The functionality is checked after inserting the key into the “secret”.
Failures occur due to mechanical wear or loss of contact. The check is carried out by turning the key. If it begins to jam, then as a temporary solution it is possible to use silicone grease by dripping it inside.
In order for the wiring diagram to function correctly, you need to know which contacts to connect to each other. Typically the following wiring system is used:
- red connects to the cable from the starter;
- the pink wire goes to “+” from the 12 V battery;
- brown +12 V is used to start the ignition relay;
- white – relay on;
- black and blue connect other consumers.
PURPOSE AND DEVICE
The main purpose of the lock was initially to protect the car from theft, however:
- Today, as can be seen from practice, in order to start and steal a car, car thieves do not necessarily need to have a key or a duplicate of it
- To put it more clearly, the protection from the castle used to justify itself, but today it is “so-so”
- Advanced car thieves, equipped with modern technologies and devices, are able to hack the electronic protection of the most modern anti-theft systems in just a few seconds.
- And on the VAZ 2109, the lock cylinder or the VAZ 2109 lock itself, or its domestic analogue can generally be called entertainment for beginners
- In fact, the ignition switch is an ordinary switch that, when you turn the key, opens or closes a certain group of contacts
- The appearance of a malfunction in the ignition switch increases the likelihood of vehicle theft several times, in addition, it creates great trouble for you and, according to the law of meanness, at a completely inappropriate moment for this
- The design of any ignition switch is similar; it consists of a lock and its contact group
- And the contact group consists of two separate plates, fixed and movable
- The movable plate moves when the key is turned in the lock and the contacts are closed in the required sequence
- Already now, switches that have the same design and order of contact closure are successfully used on all domestic cars
Reasons for replacement
As a rule, replacement of VAZ 2109 lock cylinders is carried out in the following cases:
- When they tried to steal a car and the lock cylinder was damaged in the process
- If the owner of the car has lost his keys
- Breakage of the larva during operation
The car engine may not start due to poor contact. It’s not at all difficult to check this; to do this, it’s enough to have an ohmmeter on hand, or a multitester with an ohmmeter function and five minutes of time:
- Disconnect the “-” terminal from the battery
- Remove the lower casing from the steering column
Removed the casing and opened the contacts
- Disconnect the contacts and check the resistance with an ohmmeter
- Serviceable contacts should have minimal (zero) resistance
- Otherwise, you need to replace either the contact group or the entire lock
We measure the contact resistance using an ohmmeter
REPLACING THE LOCK CIRCUIT OR THE CONTACT GROUP
Replacing the VAZ 2109 lock cylinders requires the following tools:
- New cylinder complete with keys
- Thin clock screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Fine drill
- Chisels
- Hammer
- Pliers
In the event of any breakdown, it is not necessary to replace the entire lock; if the cause of the malfunction lies in replaceable parts, then a partial repair of the lock is performed and replacing the lock cylinders on the VAZ 2109 makes sense when the key stops rotating freely in the keyhole. Another option for partial repair is to replace the contact group; for this, a minimum of tools and a little understanding of the device are enough.
Our instructions will help you understand the device:
- Nothing and no one forbids you to change the entire lock every time, and even go to a service station if you are satisfied with the price
- After removing the casing, access to the switch lock opens
- The lock cylinder can, in principle, be removed at this stage
- Therefore, we pull out the side pin that holds it in the lock
- This can be easily done with a thin screwdriver (clockwise) while tapping it with a small hammer
- If the pin cannot be pulled out in this way, then try to drill out the cylinder carefully using a thin drill
- If it is more convenient for you to remove it first, remove the ignition switch before proceeding to replace the cylinder, to do this you need to unscrew the bolts securing the ignition switch to the steering column
- This must be done using a hammer and chisel, as these bolts have sheared heads.
- Use a chisel to loosen them slightly, and then unscrew them with pliers, as in the photo below
Loosen the bolts securing the lock to the steering column
- Now we remove the bracket and the lock itself from the column, be sure to disconnect its electrical connector
- We unscrew the screw securing the ignition relay and remove it from under the panel
- Disconnect the connector
- Disconnect the “mass” wire
- Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw
- Then release the latch and remove the cover, then the contact group
- So we pulled the switch
- We remove the cylinder with our own hands and the ignition switch, as already described above
- We are replacing it
- We check the operation of the lock with a new cylinder installed, to do this we turn the ignition key
- After installation, do not forget to check the correct operation of the locking mechanism, our steering shaft
- When the mechanism does not work when turning the steering wheel fully, you need to adjust the location of the lock on the steering column
- Only after completing the adjustment of the location and checking the functionality of our locking mechanism, you can tighten the bolts until the heads come off completely, use a “10” spanner for this purpose
We troubleshoot the ignition switch of your favorite “Nine”
Ignition switch device VAZ 2109
ZZ is found in old and new designs. The old one has 4 positions, a long key and a relay. The new one does not have a relay, it has 3 positions and a short key.
The ignition switch of the VAZ 21099, like other models, performs two functions:
- mechanical – locks the steering wheel without a key;
- electrical - closes contacts depending on the position of the key.
ZZ car 2109
Scheme
The ignition switch diagram represents the position of the key in the lock and can be presented in the form of a table:
Key position | What's happening |
«0» | There is no power to the vehicle. |
"I" | Voltage is supplied to all elements of the electrical network. |
"II" | Voltage is supplied to the starter. |
"III" | Handbrake light, parking lights. |
Pinout of the old sample Connection diagram of the new sample
Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115
Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:
- comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
- the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
- +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
- +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
- +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
- comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
- +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
- not used.
Scheme of VAZ and car ignition switch
The structure of a car ignition switch
- Locking rod
- Frame
- Roller
- Contact disc
- Contact sleeve
- Block
- Protrusion of the contact part.
The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When you turn the ignition key, the electrical circuit is closed from the “-” terminal of the battery to the ignition coil. As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.
Typical faults
Since the ignition switch on the VAZ 2109 performs two functions, the nature of the faults can be divided into mechanical and electrical, although most often the lock breaks down in starter mode:
- A mechanical malfunction includes jamming of the core in any position: it is physically impossible to turn the key. In this case, you can inject a little silicone lubricant inside. If this does not help, you will have to remove the ignition switch and replace it with a new one.
- Electrical faults can occur at a certain position of the key when the integrity of the electrical network in the switch is broken. If there is no contact, all system components will not work. If there is contact, but the circuit does not occur where it is needed, this is fraught with a short circuit and overheating of the circuit breaker. It may melt and a specific smell will appear (video author - MAQS MAC).
Steering lock testing
If you don't check the steering lock, you may encounter certain problems in the future. Therefore, do not waste your time on this event. It consists of removing the key from the ignition and turning the steering wheel at a slight angle.
- If there is no lock, you will need to slightly adjust the position of the lock. Make sure it fits into the groove located on the steering shaft.
- If the locking is effective, you will only need to tighten the four installed breakaway bolts until they stop. Twist until the heads break.
When the lock installation is completed and the test has passed, do not forget to connect the device to power and start the engine. If it starts, all systems dependent on the ignition switch are working, you can fully begin reassembly. Follow the reverse instructions for removing the casing and steering column switches. It would not be amiss to check the condition of certain nodes along the way. It is quite possible that some of them also need replacement or a little preventive maintenance.
Repair and replacement instructions
Basically, the protection zone can be repaired. Repair usually consists of replacing the core or contact group. If the problem remains after repair, then the ignition switch needs to be replaced.
Core of ZZ VAZ 2109
On a VAZ 2109, replacing the core consists of the following steps:
- First, the protective and decorative cover is removed from the steering column, as well as the windshield washer and turn switches.
- The lock is secured with screws and a hook latch. There may be problems with unscrewing the screws, since their heads are cut off. To remove them, you first need to loosen them with chisels and then unscrew them with pliers. You can carefully drill out the screws.
- Next, we disconnect the clamps, disengaging them.
- By pulling out the side pin, you can remove the core. If that doesn’t work, the core can be drilled out using a thin drill. In extreme cases, you will have to dismantle the entire assembly.
- The next step is to disconnect the connector, wire plug, and ground wire.
- By releasing the latch, you can remove the cover and contact group.
- We insert a new core and check the work. When you turn the key, all processes should work.
The steering wheel lock should also be checked. If the steering wheel does not lock when turned fully, you need to adjust the position of the lock on the column.
Contact group ZZ
Replacing the contact group of the VAZ ignition switch comes down to dismantling the ignition switch: the removal diagram is described above.
When performing the procedure, the following recommendations should be followed:
- before disconnecting contacts, it is advisable to assign numbers to them, this will help to avoid errors when connecting;
- If there is a retaining ring in the design of the contact group, you must first remove it using an awl.
Knowing how the ignition switch on a VAZ 2109 works, and having at least a little experience, you can carry out the repair yourself without resorting to the help of specialists. This way you can save on maintenance costs.
Removing a faulty lock
Unscrewing the ignition switch bolts with a chisel
In practice, replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2114 will be impossible until you get rid of the old one. This is not difficult to do, but you will have to spend some time on your car.
- Once you have gained access to the ignition switch, or rather its housing, you will notice that the lock is attached to the steering column with four bolts. The problem is that they don't have heads.
- This phenomenon is part of the “unique” factory anti-theft system manufactured by AvtoVAZ. In fact, such a system makes it somewhat more difficult for criminals who do not have a key to start the engine. So don't scold them too much.
- These bolts are loosened with a chisel and hammer, and their removal is done using pliers.
- Next, remove the bracket from the column;
- Be sure to unplug the power supply. In general, the wiring diagram for the VAZ 2114 ignition switch is simple if you buy the lock assembled. You don't have to solder anything or figure out which wire goes where. Everything is assembled into a block, so all that remains is to insert it into the appropriate connector. That's all.
- By disconnecting the power supply, you can now finally get rid of the failed ignition switch.