How to install the ignition on a VAZ 2107 injector

Good day! Since the engine won’t start and I have nothing else to blame, I decided to check the timing belt and valve marks, although the “master” who bored and assembled the engine for me swore that he assembled everything correctly. In general, I began disassembling, removed the valve cover, cranked the crankshaft, and yet it turned out that that same “master” had somehow placed a mark on the camshaft not at TDC, but at BDC. Now it became clear to me why the car wouldn’t start) Well, then I’ll tell you everything as a manual...

And so what we need for this whole procedure: 1. Special. a wrench for cranking the crankshaft (personally, I didn’t have one, so I just turned it with a 24 wrench)

2. Keys for 10, 13 and 17 3. Crowbar 4. Screwdriver 5. Feeler gauge 0.15 for adjusting valves (and it is better to take a special wide one, rather than a set of narrow ones)

First, remove the valve cover by unscrewing all the nuts by 10.

Then we rotate the crankshaft to TDC so that the mark on the pulley coincides with the long mark on the block.

When combining these two marks, the mark on the sprocket should also coincide with the ebb on the camshaft bed (if the mark is at the bottom, then rotate the crankshaft 360*)

If the marks do not match, as was the case for me, do the following: 1. Turn the crankshaft so much that the marks on the sprocket and the ebb match. 2. On the left side of the block, first leave the tensioner with a 13 key, and then unscrew the 2 nuts with a 10 and pull out the tensioner itself.

3. Unscrew the bolt securing the sprocket to the camshaft with a 17mm wrench (the main thing is not to drop the bolt into the engine)

4.Remove the star and, holding the chain with your hand, remove the star from the chain. 5.Holding the chain with your hand, we begin to rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the pulley and the long mark on the block coincide. 6.Then we insert the sprocket into the chain and install the chain tensioner in place, tightening only the nuts by 10. 7. From the inside of the chain, we begin to press the crowbar through the chain onto the shoe (the shoe in the photo below is what the tensioner rests on), so that tension the chain and at the same time try to put the sprocket on the shaft.

8.After putting on the star, screw it on and tighten the tensioner with a 13 key.

This completes the procedure for setting timing marks.
Now, without turning the crankshaft, leaving all marks in the matching position, we begin to adjust the valves. First, we adjust valves 6 and 8 (the valves are counted from the radiator) Then, having adjusted them, we turn the crankshaft 180* and adjust 4 and 7. Then, turning the crankshaft another 180* (in total, 360*), we adjust 1 and 3. Then we turn it another 180* (in general, already 540 *) and adjust 2 and 5.
The adjustment is made as follows: Loosen the lower nut with a 17 wrench, then insert the feeler gauge and turn the upper nut with a 13 wrench to adjust the gap (tighten it, increase it, unscrew it, decrease it). The probe should not go through tightly, but with very little resistance.

Having adjusted the valves, return the crankshaft and camshaft to the position where all marks coincide (4th cylinder at TDC) and now set the ignition. In this position of the crankshaft and camshaft, the slider on the distributor should point exactly to wire 4 on the distributor cap, or to the spark plug of the first cylinder. If this is not the case for you, then unscrew the nut 13 at the base of the distributor, lift it and turn it to the desired position. Then we put everything back together in reverse order.

All! This completes the procedure for all adjustments. Next, we start the engine and set the angle of the KSZ either by ear or with a control. Since I have BSDS, I did not do this.

Thanks everyone for reading. I hope this information helps someone. Good luck to you!

Setting the ignition on a VAZ 2107 is easier than it seems. This does not require any special skills or tools. The article describes the complete procedure.

Installing the ignition on a VAZ 2107 is not so difficult. But in this matter you need to be extremely careful and precise, otherwise the whole procedure will have to be repeated.

Why do you need proper ignition installation?

If the torque setting is incorrect, there will be both a decrease in engine output power and increased wear of the gas distribution mechanism, increased vibration, various malfunctions, increased detonation, and increased noise. The mixture does not burn immediately, but a detonation wave appears that hits the cylinder walls, causing vibration. The figure shows the combustion chamber of a VAZ engine at the moment of top dead center, when operating pressure is created, the valve reliably closes the chamber. 1 – normal combustion zone, 2 – mixture detonation zone.

Preparing for correct ignition setting

First you need to make sure that:

all the spark plugs are in good working order, the gaps in them are adjusted, no carbon deposits are formed, if there is carbon deposits, then the spark plugs need to be calcined. On the left is a candle with carbon deposits, on the right is a more normal one.
spark plug wires have good contact and insulation;
The contacts of the distributor are not burnt. If they are burnt, you need to replace the contact group.
the quality of the wire from the coil and the contacts are good, the insulation is normal, the ignition coil is working;
All dust and dirt should be removed from the coil, distributor contacts, and distributor cap;
The adjustment must be performed with the engine fully warmed up; to do this, wait until the radiator cooling fan turns on.

Now let’s talk about how you can set the ignition on a VAZ 2107. The adjustment is carried out in a simple way, using a light bulb. You can also set the ignition using a spark or strobe. The sequence of actions is as follows:

remove the spark plug from the first cylinder;
insert a rubber plug of a suitable size into the hole;
then rotate the crankshaft either with a gas wrench, or with a ratchet wrench, or with a special crankshaft wrench, slowly until the plug comes out. This means the piston is at or very close to top dead center;
after this, carefully align the marks of the crankshaft pulley and the middle mark on the front engine cover; The middle mark indicates 5° ignition advance.

after that, remove the ratchet wrench, screw the spark plug back in and install the wire;
prepare a 12 V light bulb, one for the ignition coil output (plus), and the second for ground;
determine the ignition timing - loosen the distributor fastening nut with a 13mm wrench;
turn on the ignition, the light comes on;
turn the distributor rotor clockwise until the light goes out;
slowly turn the distributor rotor COUNTERclockwise until the light comes on again. This reverse stroke is a fine adjustment when the torque is set correctly.
fasten the nut.

Now you need to check whether the torque setting is correct. To do this, you need to choose a straight section of the road, without ups and downs, and with a fully warmed-up engine, we drive in 4th gear at a speed slightly lower than usual, about 50 km/h, and then sharply accelerate. A characteristic “knock of fingers” appears. After the speed increases by 5 km/h, the knocking should stop on its own. This means that the ignition timing is set correctly. If the knocking noise does not occur at all, or lasts much longer, the angle setting is insufficient and the adjustment must be repeated.

The Zhiguli “classic” VAZ 2107 does not belong to modern cars, made with the latest technology and stuffed with sophisticated electronics. This is its beauty - you don’t need to contact car service specialists for any reason; most car maintenance work can be done by the owner himself. This also includes the procedure for setting up the ignition, which anyone can do after studying the detailed instructions.

1 When should you turn on the ignition?
2 Types of systems
3 Preparatory stage
4 Settings on carburetor modifications of the VAZ 2107

5 Checking and adjusting the advance angle
6 How to set the ignition without a light bulb - video
7 How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 with an injector?
8 Video on checking the ignition module

Timing phases and when to set them according to marks

Valve timing refers to those moments at which the piston in the engine moves up and down over a certain interval. When irregularities in the valve timing occur, the pistons move incorrectly along the interval, resulting in uneven engine operation on the VAZ-2107.

If the driver notices that the car’s power decreases, fuel consumption increases, and engine interruptions occur, then it is necessary to resort to setting the valve timing according to marks. How to set marks on a VAZ 2107 carburetor and injector, we will learn from this material, since the design of the timing mechanism is identical.

How to set timing timing marks

The procedure involves performing the following manipulations:

The VAZ 2107 needs to be placed on a hard surface, with chocks placed under the wheels and the hand brake pressed all the way. The gear shift lever must be set to neutral mode.
The cover is removed from the cylinder head by first unscrewing all the fixing nuts to “10”. It is better to replace the gasket with a new one, even if the old one shows no signs of damage.
Using a key set to “24”, you need to turn the crankshaft on a VAZ 2107 car. This is done in order to be able to align the marks on the moving and stationary parts of the mechanism. To carry out these actions, it is recommended to use good lighting or use a flashlight. The crankshaft rotates until the mark on the pump and generator drive belt pulley coincides with the long mark marked on the block.
Combining these risks, the mark on the sprocket should eventually coincide with the ebb on the camshaft bed. If the mark ends up at the bottom, then you should rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
If you can’t make sure the labels match, then proceed to the next steps, which are described below.
The crankshaft is rotated until the marks on the star and the bed ebb align.
Using the key at “13”, you need to loosen the tensioner. The 2 nuts securing the tensioner are unscrewed, after which this device is removed.
The bolt that secures the sprocket to the camshaft is unscrewed. To do this you will need to use the key at “17”.
The sprocket is removed, after which it must be rotated until the marks on the VAZ-2107 timing belt pulley coincide with the long mark on the block. The star fastening bolt does not need to be unscrewed, since after removing the tensioner the camshaft star rotates.
We put a chain on the sprocket, if it was decided to unscrew it, and install it in place. Finally, the tensioner is installed, for which you should tighten it with 2 nuts to “10”. You can install the tensioner first, but later you will need to use a crowbar or pry bar to get the sprocket into place. Finally, screw the tensioner nut to “13”.

This relative arrangement of the parts allows the piston of the 4th cylinder to be positioned at top dead center TDC.

Features of servicing the timing mechanism

After the timing marks are installed on the VAZ-2107, you need to perform the following actions:

The timing chain of the VAZ-2107 is being tensioned.
Adjusting the valves, or more precisely, the thermal gap between the camshaft cams and the rocker arm.
Setting up the ignition system.

The process of adjusting the valves on the VAZ-2107 is carried out according to the following scheme: initially 6 and 8 valves are adjusted, the report must be carried out from the radiator. After they are adjusted, you need to start adjusting valves 4 and 7, then valves 1 and 3, and finally valves 2 and 5.

How to adjust the valves on a VAZ-2107 car can be found out in more detail in the relevant material on this site. In conclusion, it is worth noting that VAZ-2107 cars are one of the most reliable vehicles, the production of which began back in the 90s.

When should you turn on the ignition?

The first thing you should know is that there are no regulations for this operation, since the ignition timing is set or adjusted only if necessary. It may be caused by the following reasons:

You recently purchased a “Seven” on the secondary market and are trying to “bring it to mind.”
After engine repair, accompanied by its disassembly.
After unscrewing or removing the main ignition distributor (distributor), regardless of the reason why this was done.
When switching from high-octane fuel to gasoline with a lower octane number and vice versa.
After replacing the contact group or bearing in the distributor (in cars with an old ignition system).

Note. On VAZ 2107 vehicles equipped with an electronically controlled injector, the reason for checking the spark generation system may be the flashing of the Check Engine display on the instrument panel. True, it behaves in a similar way when a dozen more malfunctions occur. So ignition problems must first be diagnosed by contacting a service station.

In the vast majority of cases, the sparking moment is set as a result of a violation of the settings after disassembling or repairing the engine. A separate issue is the transition to high-octane gasoline, which requires ignition with greater advance, for which adjustments are being made.

It is advisable to check the timely formation of a discharge on the electrodes of the spark plugs in cases where unstable engine operation is observed, popping noises are heard in the carburetor and exhaust pipe, accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption. If you have not yet discovered the “gluttony” of the car, then pay attention to the color of the smoke; with high gasoline consumption, it is black, as is the carbon deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs.

About their device

Before finding out the importance of the elements of the ignition system in question, it is necessary to understand their structure. Structurally, the high-voltage wire consists of the following parts:

Each element performs corresponding tasks, and at the slightest violation of integrity, it will be necessary to replace it. Armored wires cannot be repaired, since they play one of the main roles in the car’s ignition system, and also belong to the category of consumables.

This is interesting! Few people know that on a car it is necessary to change not only the spark plugs, but also the armored wires, which wear out over time and begin to malfunction.

On a distributor or MZ
It is a mistaken opinion that armored wires on a machine are ordinary wires that are designed to transmit current from a source to a receiver. As you know, VAZ 2107 cars were produced in two variations of the fuel supply system - carburetor and injector. Although many parts and mechanisms on the carburetor and injector are the same, this does not apply to the GDP. The carburetor VVP differs from the injection one on the VAZ 2107 in the following parameters:

Types of systems

For decades, while the VAZ 2107 model was produced (from 1982 to 2012), it was equipped with three types of ignition systems:

mechanical with contacts - breakers;

contactless;

controlled by an electronic unit (ECU).

Contact ignition circuit installed in the first VAZ 2107 models

Note. The first 2 varieties were installed on the “seven” with a carburetor, the latter was introduced together with an injector.

In the mechanical version, the contacts opened by the cam of the distributor shaft break the low voltage circuit, initiating the formation of a powerful pulse in the secondary winding of the coil. This discharge is directed to the electrodes of the spark plug, which ignites the fuel in the cylinder where the piston has risen to top dead center (TDC) and the compression stroke is completed.

Scheme of non-contact ignition of the seven with a carburetor

The contactless circuit operates on the same principle, only the signal to break the circuit is supplied by the Hall sensor, and it is implemented by the switch. Therefore, setting the ignition on carburetor “sevens” is done almost identically. Another thing is cars with an injector, where a new system has been introduced that does not have not only contacts, but also a distributor and any moving parts. Here, the moment of spark formation is determined by the ECU controller, which is guided by the signals of various sensors.

Ignition system VAZ 2107 with injector

Prerequisites for failure

In situations where there is a malfunction, VAZ 2107 owners replace the spark plugs. Old factory spark plugs are usually replaced with iridium spark plugs from NGK or Denzo. Do not forget that only those spark plugs that are designed for the appropriate type of injection are suitable here.

The type of ignition system is no less important in determining the parameters of the spark plug. Often such manipulation does not provide much improvement (plugs have a fairly long service life), so the non-contact ignition system undergoes a full diagnosis.

Diagnostics of how the ignition module and each individual coil operates is carried out using a special device called a multimeter or ohmmeter. Its functional task is to show the voltage value supplied by the ignition module. As a result of diagnostics, it is possible to identify the source of current loss in the circuit and, accordingly, the nature of the malfunction. To facilitate painstaking work, it is recommended to dismantle the module outward before starting the process.

Non-contact ignition system checks for short circuits

First, pay attention to the coil winding. To get started, connect a multimeter, which determines the resistance value

There is a recommendation regarding the lubrication of the tip of a high-voltage wire: a special product for the VAZ 2107 or technical petroleum jelly is used here.

the module is disconnected from the tips;
one terminal of the device is connected to the central contact, which has a coil;
the other terminal of the device is connected to ground.

The process of checking the secondary windings of the module includes:

Here we focus on an indicator whose value will be no less than 7 ohms. Recommendation: if at least one coil does not meet the specified indicator, the module as a whole must be replaced, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid a malfunction of the system with a VAZ 2107, where an injector is used.

The ignition coil of the VAZ 2107 is located in the engine compartment on the left side of the engine and is secured to the body with two nuts. The ignition coil is an independent element of the vehicle's electrical equipment that converts low voltage current into high voltage current up to 10-20 kV, which should be sufficient to break the gap on the spark plugs and sufficient to ignite the combustible mass. The coil is non-separable, which means that if it fails, it cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one.

The ignition coil is a transformer consisting of an internal magnetic circuit, primary and secondary windings, as well as an external magnetic circuit connected to the ignition distributor.

To remove the coil you will need a ten and eight wrench, also disconnect the battery.

Disconnect the central magnetic circuit from the coil.
Unscrew the two nuts securing the power wires with a wrench.
Using a ten-socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the coil to the car body, remove the ground wire and remove the coil from the studs.

At this point, work on removing the ignition coil of the VAZ 2107 is completed. Before replacing it with a new one, you need to make sure that it is not working; for this you will need a multimeter. Before checking, thoroughly clean the primary winding leads on the coil body (two studs to which the power wires are attached) from dirt and oxides.

First, let's check the resistance of the primary winding. To do this, connect the ohmmeter terminals to the terminals of the primary winding (two pins on the body) and take measurements. Depending on the type of coil being tested, the resistance should be: B-117A = 3-3.5 Ohm; 27.3705 = 0.45-0.5 Ohm.
Now we check the resistance in the secondary winding circuit. To do this, we connect one ohmmeter probe to the terminal of the high-voltage wire, and leave the second at the terminal of the primary winding. The resistance should be equal: B-117A = 7.4-9.2 kOhm; 27.3705 = 5-0.5 kOhm.

At this point, the repair work on removing and checking the ignition coil of the VAZ 2107 is completed. If, after checking, deviations from the norm are found, it is recommended to replace the coil with a new one.

Preparatory stage

To set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 car, no special conditions are required; the operation can be done both in the garage and on the street, including in winter. For work, prepare the following set of tools:

flat screwdriver;
metal probe 0.35 mm thick;
open-end wrench size 13 mm;
a car light bulb designed for a voltage of 12 V with wires soldered to it;
a wrench with a long handle designed to turn the crankshaft;
key for unscrewing spark plugs.

Ignition tuning tool

Note. Instead of a special key to rotate the crankshaft, you can use a regular open-end wrench measuring 36 mm. If you don’t have such a key, then you will have to set the marks in the old proven way: by engaging 4th gear and raising the rear wheel, turn it manually, thereby turning the crankshaft.

Ideally, it is better to have in your arsenal a device for setting the ignition on a running engine - a strobe light. It is equipped with a lamp that flashes simultaneously with the moment of spark formation in the cylinder, which allows you to see the position of the notch on the crankshaft pulley at idle speed and clearly adjust the advance angle.

This is what a strobe looks like, which is convenient for adjusting ignition timing

Important point. The ignition is set in order to ensure that the spark appears in a timely manner and the engine starts, after which additional adjustments will be required. But the latter will not bring you the desired result when there is no compression in the cylinders or problems with the carburetor make themselves felt. If these faults are not eliminated, the engine operation will remain unstable, no matter how you configure the spark generation system.

Hence the conclusion: you can set the ignition correctly at any time, but to set it well - only on a working engine and carburetor.

Insulation breakdown

Just like with candles, a breakdown in the insulation can occur here. What could be causing this? Often a breakdown occurs due to oil leaks that form at the junction of the valve cover, head and other elements. As the rpm increases, the oil pressure increases. Oil begins to get on all elements, including the ignition coil. Signs of malfunction: failures in acceleration, jerking and high fuel consumption. To prevent this, keep the engine compartment clean.

Please note that an insulation breakdown may also occur due to engine washing. Excess moisture gets on the contacts, causing a short circuit.

To prevent this, you should cover not only the battery, but also the coil itself. It is also recommended to insulate the distributor cap if it is an older car. By the way, a wet distributor is the most popular reason why a car won’t start at all. Sometimes you can limit yourself to drying contacts. But in 80 percent of cases, only replacement saves.

Tuning on carburetor modifications of the VAZ 2107

All old textbooks on servicing classic Zhiguli models describe a method for setting the moment of spark formation using a light bulb, although experienced motorists can easily do without it. You will understand why this happens as you read this material, but for beginners it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the old proven technique.

To correctly set the ignition of the “seven”, you need to ensure that the following conditions are met simultaneously:

the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the long mark on the timing cover;
in this case, the round mark marked on the camshaft chain drive gear coincides with the boss on its body;
the piston of the 4th cylinder has completed the compression stroke and is at top dead center;
the contacts inside the distributor are open;
The movable contact of the slider faces the fixed contact on the distributor cover, where the wire from the spark plug of the 4th cylinder is connected.

Note. On non-contact systems, at this moment the Hall sensor sends a signal to the switch to break the low voltage electrical circuit, which leads to the appearance of a high voltage pulse on the wire leading to the spark plug of the 4th cylinder.

The diagram shows what happens in the cylinders when the marks are aligned

The light bulb is used to control the ignition timing, for which it must be connected with one wire to the “K” contact of the high-voltage coil, and with the second to the vehicle ground. You should know that at the same moment the piston of the first cylinder is also in the TDC position, only there the air-fuel mixture is not compressed, but exhaust gases are released after its combustion. This is why ignorant car enthusiasts often confuse the first cylinder with the fourth when installing the ignition.

Layout of marks on the timing cover

When the above actions occur simultaneously, a spark discharge occurs on the electrodes of the spark plug of the 4th cylinder, as evidenced by the flash of the connected light bulb. To achieve these conditions and set the ignition correctly, follow the instructions:

Turn the crankshaft with a 36 mm wrench, aligning the notch on the pulley with the long notch on the timing cover.

If at this moment the engine valve cover is removed, then it is better to navigate by the mark on the camshaft gear, placing it opposite the housing boss.

Take the ignition distributor, remove the cover and turn its shaft to place the slider opposite the wire leading to cylinder No. 4 (there are cylinder number markings on the cover). Insert the distributor into the engine hole, holding the slider and housing in this position, and then secure it with a 13 mm wrench nut.

Connect the light bulb wires and turn on the ignition by turning the key. Loosen the nut securing the distributor and slowly turn it by the housing until the lamp flashes, indicating the moment of sparking. Reattach the distributor.

Turn off the ignition and make sure that the contacts inside the distributor are currently open. Take a 0.35 mm feeler gauge and check the gap between them, if necessary, adjust it by loosening the fastening screws with a screwdriver.

The marks must be aligned by turning the crankshaft with a wrench

Note. The instructions imply that before starting work the distributor was removed from the engine without aligning the marks.

The ignition is considered to be set correctly if, after installing the distributor cap and connecting the wires, you manage to start the engine, and then you need to adjust the timing. The non-contact system is installed in the same way, with the exception of checking the gap in the contact group due to its absence.

The mark on the camshaft gear is aligned with the boss on the body

The main components of the distributor and a description of its operation

Device.

A capacitor is secured to the bottom of the housing with screws. A drive roller is installed on bushings in the center of the housing. Its bottom has splines with which it engages with the drive gear. In the upper part of the roller there are contact drive cams (for contact ignition) or a steel cup with four slots - a screen (for contactless ignition).

At the very top, on a steel platform, two weights and two springs of the centrifugal ignition regulator are installed. A plastic housing with a moving contact and noise suppression resistance of the high voltage distributor (slider) is screwed onto the top with two screws.

The entire structure is closed with a lid on two spring latches. The body and cover have a tongue and groove so that they fit together in only one position. The cover contains contact terminals for high voltage wires from the spark plugs and from the ignition coil.

Job.

The distributor is connected through the drive to the engine crankshaft and rotates with it. For two full revolutions of the crankshaft, the distributor shaft makes one revolution. This is due to the fact that our engine is four-stroke. When installing the distributor in place, the roller is oriented in strict accordance with the operating order of the engine.

Its weights, under the influence of centrifugal force, which is greater the higher the engine speed, diverge to the sides and move the cams relative to the roller, making ignition “earlier.” When the engine speed decreases, the springs return the weights to their place and the ignition becomes “later”.

This is necessary to increase engine power and efficiency. In addition to the centrifugal one, a vacuum ignition timing regulator is also installed on the distributor. Its function is to fire “earlier” at low throttle opening angles and “later” at sharp throttle opening angles.

Checking and adjusting the lead angle

To check whether the ignition is set correctly, just align the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. In this case, the slider should be directed to the 4th cylinder, and the contacts should be open. If the slider “looks” towards the first cylinder and the car does not start, then turn it 180° as described above.

To create optimal fuel combustion conditions in the chamber, the flash should occur a little earlier than the piston reaches TDC. There are 3 ways to achieve this:

when installing the ignition, align the notch on the pulley not with the first long mark, but with the second, indicating an advance angle of 5°;
determine the amount of advance “by ear” by loosening the nut securing the distributor and turning it by the housing at idle engine speed;
connect a strobe light to the system, start the engine and by turning the distributor, adjust the position of the notch by pointing the flashing lamp of the device at it.

The advance angle is adjusted by turning the distributor housing

Reference. The second method is most often used by experienced drivers, since it gives a positive result without any instruments. The ignition distributor is turned until the position of the most stable engine operation is found. That is why the use of a light bulb does not play a big role, because the real advance angle at which the engine operates in optimal mode lies in the range of 5-10° and is determined individually in each car experimentally.

Once the settings are complete, press the gas pedal sharply several times. If you can hear the piston pins knocking (a ringing sound is clearly audible from the engine), then the advance angle is too large. Loosen the distributor and turn it 1-2° clockwise, then check again by pressing the accelerator.

Advice. Finger tapping is often heard when you fill with low octane fuel. Then it is necessary to reduce the advance angle so that detonation (which causes knocking) does not destroy the piston group. When using high-quality fuel, the angle should be increased in order to improve the dynamic characteristics of the VAZ 2107.

BZS adjustment

Adjusting the ignition of the VAZ 2107 begins with the simplest operation of removing the distributor cover, then turning the crankshaft until the maximum distance between it and the distributor is reached.

Installation process of BZS VAZ 2107

After this, they begin to unscrew the screws that fix the contact group on the bearing plate and between the contacts, insert a probe to determine and select the optimal position for the group

Contact angle correction in closed state

Ideally, everything is determined by the force applied to move the probe, which should be minimal; having found an area that meets this requirement, the position of the group is fixed by tightening the screws. The size of the gap also matters; to determine it, the thickness of the feeler gauge should be 0.44 millimeters. It is the adjustment of the gap that provides the required value of the angle of closed contacts; its optimal value is 55±3°.

Installation of BZS VAZ 2107

If the parameters correspond to the norm, then you can proceed to the second stage, which consists in adjusting the advanced ignition angle. To begin with, let us determine that the distributor chopper in the type of engine under consideration needs to realize the opening moment simultaneously with the spark in the first cylinder. This provides for an advance of the top dead center of the piston stroke for the first cylinder by 0±1°.

Lead angle correction using a strobe light

There are several ways to adjust this indicator, on which the correct ignition adjustment of the VAZ 2106 as a whole largely depends. The most efficient way to cope with this task is to use a strobe light. The device must be connected to the vehicle electrical network, and the vacuum correction hose must be removed and plugged from the distributor. Following this, the engine is warmed up until it maintains idle speed, followed by loosening the bolt responsible for fixing the distributor housing.

The light emitted by the strobe is directed to the crankshaft pulley; rotating the distributor body will allow you to achieve a position that ensures that the visible position of the mark on the pulley is opposite the corresponding marks marked on the timing cover. In this position, the distributor body is fixed by tightening it with bolts. The presence of idle speed of the power unit during the adjustment process is of decisive importance. If the speed is higher, the centrifugal regulator will take part in the work, which will distort the adjustment results.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 with an injector?

The ignition system of the “Seven” with direct fuel injection operates under the control of an ECU that receives signals from the following sensors:

crankshaft position;
air flow;
throttle position;
lambda probe.

Multimeter for checking the ignition module

Based on the readings of these sensors, the controller itself determines the moment of spark formation, so the system is not configured in the usual sense. If any problems occur, the driver can only independently check the functionality of the ignition module, to which the high voltage wires from the cylinders are connected. To do this, you need to take a multimeter (ohmmeter) and perform the following steps:

Disconnect all wires from the module.

Set the maximum measurement value on the multimeter to 20 kOhm.

Measure the resistance between the following pairs of terminals: 1 and 4, 2 and 3.

If the measurement results fall outside the range of 3.6-4 kOhm, then the module is faulty and must be replaced.

The seven with an injector has an ignition module, which you can check yourself

Diagram, procedure for connecting VAZ high-voltage wires.

First, let's decide which of the four cylinders is first?

The first cylinder in front-wheel drive VAZs is located closer to the timing belt. If you look at the engine from the front, the first cylinder is the leftmost). And then everything is simple - from left to right - 1, 2, 3, 4.

In rear-wheel drive VAZ Classic and Niva, the first cylinder is located closer to the front bumper of the car.

Common malfunctions of high-voltage wires

Replacement of high-voltage wires on cars must be done not only when signs of their malfunction appear, but also regularly at the appropriate mileage, which depends on the quality of the products used. If malfunctions occur in the ignition system, then the causes of their occurrence may be GDP. Common malfunctions of armored wires on the seven include:

On a candle

If at least one product malfunctions, it is necessary to perform a comprehensive replacement. In order to make sure that it is necessary to replace the armored wires on the seven, you will need to check them first. How to check the serviceability and suitability of the GDP is carried out, we will find out further.

Video on checking the ignition module

It is important to set the ignition correctly after disassembling the power unit or removing the distributor without fixing the marks, otherwise you will not be able to start the car. This task is quite simple and does not require any deep knowledge or special tools. The main thing is to understand that a spark should appear in the 4th cylinder during the compression stroke and to catch this moment, acting according to the instructions.

Annotation on setting up the ignition system of the VAZ 2107 with your own hands

The Zhiguli “classic” VAZ 2107 does not belong to modern cars, manufactured with the latest technology and stuffed with sophisticated electronics. This is its beauty - there is no need to contact car service specialists for any reason; most of the car maintenance work can be done by the owner himself. This also includes the procedure for the ignition option, which anyone can perform, having previously studied the detailed instructions.

When should you turn on the ignition?

The first thing you need to know is that there are no regulations for this operation, since the ignition timing is set or adjusted only as needed. It may be caused by the following reasons:

You recently acquired a “seven” on the secondary market and are trying to “bring it to mind.”
After repairing the engine, which included disassembling it.
After unscrewing or removing the head ignition distributor (distributor), regardless of the reason why it was made.
When switching from high-octane fuel to gasoline with a lower octane number and vice versa.
After replacing the contact group or bearing in the distributor (in cars with an old ignition system).

Note. On VAZ 2107 vehicles equipped with an electronically controlled injector, a prerequisite for checking the spark generation system can be the flashing of the Check Engine display on the instrument panel. True, it behaves in a similar way when a dozen more malfunctions occur. So ignition problems must first be diagnosed by contacting a service station.

In the vast majority of cases, set as a result of a violation of the settings after disassembling or repairing the engine. A separate issue is the transition to high-octane gasoline, which requires ignition with greater advance, for which adjustments are being made.

Knock sensor

The knock sensor (DS) is designed to save fuel and increase engine power. It consists of a piezoelectric element that generates electricity when detonation occurs, thereby regulating its level. As the oscillation frequency increases, the voltage supplied to the electronic control unit increases. The DD adjusts the ignition settings to optimize the ignition process in the cylinders of the fuel-air mixture.

Knock sensor location

On VAZ cars, the DD is located on the power unit block between the second and third cylinders. It is installed only on engines with a contactless ignition system and control unit. On VAZ models with contact ignition there is no DD.

Signs of a malfunctioning knock sensor

A malfunction of the knock sensor manifests itself as follows.

If any of these symptoms occur, a DD check will be required.

Checking the knock sensor

DD is checked using a multimeter. First you need to check whether the value of its resistance corresponds to the values regulated by the manufacturer. If the values differ, replace the DD. The check can be performed in another way. For this:

Video: checking the knock sensor

Types of systems

For decades, while the VAZ 2107 model was produced (from 1982 to 2012), it was equipped with three types of ignition systems:

mechanical with contacts - breakers;
contactless;
controlled by an electronic unit (ECU).

Note. The first 2 varieties were installed on the “seven” with a carburetor, the latter was introduced together with an injector.

See:

Preparatory stage

To set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 , no special conditions are required; the operation can be done both in the garage and on the street, including in winter. For work, prepare the following set of tools:

flat screwdriver;
metal probe 0.35 mm thick;
open-end wrench size 13 mm;
a car light bulb designed for a voltage of 12 V with wires soldered to it;
a wrench with a long handle designed to turn the crankshaft;
key for unscrewing spark plugs.

Important point. The ignition is set in order to ensure that the spark appears in a timely manner and the engine starts, after which additional adjustments will be required. But the latter will not bring you the desired result when there is no compression in the cylinders or problems with the carburetor make themselves felt. If these faults are not eliminated, the engine operation will remain unstable, no matter how you configure the spark generation system.

Hence the conclusion: you can set the ignition correctly at any time, but to set it well - only on a working engine and carburetor.

ICE theory: Motor 2103 with head 21214 with reg. star (modern)

2:17 — How to measure compression 9:55 — How to install an adjustable sprocket 10:00 — How to set up a split gear.

VAZ 2107 injector - treatment of tripping and misfires

Diagnostics revealed that the fourth gasoline injector was clogged, tripping and multiple misfires in all.