What to do if the door does not open from the outside and inside on a VAZ 2110

Adjusting the VAZ-2110 door lock

It is difficult to imagine a modern car without doors. It is through them that the driver and passengers gain access to the cabin. At the same time, the path to the vehicle must be closed to unauthorized persons. This function is assigned to one of the door elements - the lock.

Long-term operation in different temperature conditions and frequent operation can lead to premature failure or disruption of the adjustment of some elements. In this case, the car locks may not fully cope with their functions or may even refuse to work at all. In such a situation, the car owner must take timely measures to configure and adjust the door lock. Otherwise, one day he himself may not get into his car.

Features of doors and locks

The operating principle and design of most locking devices installed on cars are practically the same. Of all the car locks, only the ignition switch is the most reliable. It is he who is the last to protect the car from theft after an attacker has entered the cabin. In turn, the doors have to withstand various mechanical impacts day after day, which inevitably lead to wear. At the same time, rarely do any car enthusiasts take proper care of their doors and locking devices.

What functions do car doors perform? There are two of them - protective (preventing unauthorized persons from entering the cabin) and insulating (creating a tightness of the car to prevent rain, wind, snow, cold, and so on from entering it).

Door device

The design is a metal sheet with niches and holes for fastenings. The internal cavities are designed for soundproofing pads, electrical wires, speakers, window lift system, lock and handle. The door is attached to cast hinges, the rim is lined with a rubber seal. Glass is inserted into the niche. The diameter of the gaps is checked at the factory: no more than 1–2 cm. A standard car is produced without an additional upgrade. Modification of the machine by inexperienced drivers can lead to door malfunction.

Lada 2112 tazoandru › Logbook › The door is hard to open - Resolved

I already did this work in the summer, as soon as I purchased the car. This time I decided to show the solution to the problem in detail. And I also noticed that it is on the driver’s side that the door starts to open with difficulty, apparently because I open it most often)

For work we need: A wonderful liquid called WD-40, a screwdriver and, of course, straight hands) First, we check that the problem exists and has not disappeared anywhere :)

Yes, to open the door, you need to make some effort. Then we begin to remove the trim.

Unscrew everything that is circled) Remove the plastic cover

and unscrew 2 screws. Then, simply by pulling towards yourself, the casing is removed, it is held on by pistons, which do not really want to be removed

This is what we see when we remove the trim

and this is how some of my pistons came off

Having reached the castle, we see this... this is exactly what we need

we unhook it (which is not so easy), and then we kind of increase it (unscrew it), I did like four turns

and of course we put it in place. I also lubricated the miracle lock with WD-40.

and on this side of the lock, it’s better to lubricate it too

We put everything back together in reverse order. Well, of course, you will have to suffer with the pistons; they will not fall into place so easily :)

Checking the work done)

Now the door opens easily, literally - with one finger

Driver's door lock

Last Saturday I decided to do a quick repair, namely adjust the driver's door lock.
But since it didn’t work out quickly, I will describe it for a long time. The driver's door opened very poorly, to open it you had to push the handle upward as hard as you could. I don’t know, maybe this often happens with dozens of people, like even one guy told me, whose tenner is the same year as mine, the door opens easier compared to his, although his car’s condition is two times better - but it’s possible pull out the handle by the roots. After some ordeal, I found out that if you hold the lock button and pull it up, the door begins to open without much effort. This inconvenience did not suit me at all, so I decided to quickly disassemble the door and adjust it. But that was not the case, everything dragged on much longer than I expected. The first trouble awaited me when I removed the card from the door, I saw that one of the card fasteners where the holders (pistons) are inserted was left hanging on the door. And unfortunately I discovered that the card was missing a couple of these mounts. But ok I think. these are little things, let's move on (In the end, I glued this holder with the same glue that someone had already riveted it with).

When I got to the lock mechanism itself, I thought that I could easily lift up the handle lever, set it to the desired level and that’s it. Yeah, it’s not like that, here’s the second problem. Having done this procedure, it did not give any result. Having removed the lock mechanism, I saw that its parts were so heavily developed that the lever that is responsible for locking the lock simply does not lock, but returns to the locking position, as a result of which the second lever cannot fully move the tongue to press.

Naturally I decided to install a new mechanism. Having driven to the store, installed and configured the lock, the door began to open as it should.

And here the third biggest trouble awaited. The lock activator could not cope with the door lock lever and could not move it either up or down. (That is, from Sighnaghi I could not close and open the doors). After trying to somehow set it all up and regulate it, I decided to go back to the store and buy a new activator. I bought it and replaced it with the same song.

After several hours of fighting with the activator, we managed to defeat it by replacing it from a two-wire to a five-wire, which goes to the central locking. I had to do this due to the fact that the “traditional” method of attaching the activator rod, using the kit that comes with the activator, did not give any results. All dances with a tambourine were useless. So, the central locking itself was apparently installed from the factory because there was a switch (toggle switch) inside the lock, which gave a signal to open and close the doors.

And this switch played all the time. It has a plastic lever that fits into the eye of the lock. And this eyelet was exactly what was needed to secure the rod from the activator, thereby the force of the activator will be transmitted directly to the lock. Therefore, we had to get rid of the factory switch.

Having installed a five-wire activator, I connected two wires for opening, and three that were left over from the factory switch. I bent the rod itself and inserted it into the eye of the lock. After that everything worked.

The 10-point clips on which the door cards are attached are such a shame, I installed eight-point clips - they are easier to install and the card holds on more tightly.

Source

Reassembly

Assembly is done in reverse order, but with one caveat. The perimeter trim is secured with plastic rivets, which are very fragile and often break when removed. Before installation, you must replace all of them with new ones. Otherwise, due to a loose fit, the casing will rattle when driving.

To replace, you only need a flathead screwdriver. It is necessary to remove the dowel from the door hole and insert a rivet into the trim. It is not recommended to leave old kits, they are disposable. When the door trim is ready for installation, first carefully press it against the door, trying to align all the rivets with the dowels. Next, apply light pressure along the perimeter to press it tightly. That's it, you can tighten the screws and put the speaker in place.

Now you know what to do if the door on a VAZ-2110 does not open from the inside. The repair budget will be about 200-300 rubles, the time cost will be no more than half an hour. Minimum effort will be required to fix this problem. The work is completely simple. This procedure is suitable if any front door on a VAZ-2110 cannot be opened from the inside. The actions in all cases are similar and do not require additional description.

To open the door of a VAZ 2112 from the passenger compartment, when you pull the opening handle, you need to pull the door towards yourself for it to open. Otherwise, if you don’t pull the door towards you, it won’t open, why?

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Because the lock needs to be adjusted. The latch clamps, you need to move it a little. Just don’t close the door with loose screws, move it a little, tighten it, try it. And so on until you adjust it as needed. There the lock itself moves a little and the counter part is on the stand.

This is because the mechanism is worn out, there is a little wear here, a little there, but in the end we have what we have.

Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Guys, help, in general, the rear right door does not open, not from the outside or from the inside. It's as if it's jammed. How and what to do? maybe someone knows? There were frosts, the door froze, well, somehow I opened it, and then it completely closed and that’s it SO THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED I’ll try to do everything with pictures and explanations, since I’m not the only one, I hope the post won’t be deleted, as it might be useful to someone So, I removed the door card, naturally it was cramped and uncomfortable.

I had to unscrew the rear window guide (it looks like velvet glass seals) and the view became better. In order to understand what was working wrong, I opened and removed the same thing from the second door, closed it and began to study the result of what kind of thrust the lock has, we can say the total, or rather there are two thrusts (external and internal handle), then one of the locks are combined (it turns out like knee) when you open it from the street, one part of the knee moves, and when from the inside, the knee is assembled. I switch to the jammed door and observe that when opening the rod from the street, part of the knee moves like everything else (but this is just a part), I open it from the passenger compartment, the second part does not move and therefore the knee assembly also does not produce any action. Yeah, I see. I look at the working side.

When the door is closed, the center of the knee is at the top, but on my door it is at the bottom when closed, and thereby jammed and blocked this draft. Somehow I crawled up, and trying to lift this knee up, it worked, but not the first time. - I open it from the salon and the door comes loose, and says get out of here, I close the tongue on the open door, check the knee, everything is as it should be, I open it, everything works. Until I thought of this option, I tried as the guys here advised, namely, I tried to heat the castle with my mother’s hairdryer, it took a long time, it was terribly hot. If the tongue were frozen, it would thaw anyway IT DID NOT WORK FOR ME There is another option, as I understand it: we remove the back of the seat, pull out the seal, and a decent gap opens, in which you can see part of the lock and part of the bolt; if you try really hard, you can crawl there with something thin, and get into the lower part of the tongue on the lock and the door will open, I tried it on a working door, IT WORKS, but I didn’t have enough patience on a broken one, so this option DID NOT HELP me. So I think it will be useful for someone, but what if the moderators delete it? I’ll try to create an entry in the forum, only without pictures Thanks to everyone who gave advice, perhaps they will be the solution to the problem for others, but I had a slightly different problem PS leave an entry, it may be useful.

Source

Door assembly

The door assembly must be done carefully. The plastic rivets that hold the VAZ skin in place are very fragile. They often break during door disassembly. Therefore, it is better to replace them with new ones. Otherwise, the casing will fly off while driving or begin to rattle when listening to music loudly.

To replace the rivets you will need a flathead screwdriver. Pull the dowel out of the door hole. Then insert a new rivet into the panel. There is no need to store the old kit. These parts are disposable.

After collecting the cladding, carefully press it against the door. Don't press too hard. Align all the dowels and rivets. Secure the cladding with light pressure. Tighten the screws and put the speakers in place.

Now you know what to do if the front door of a VAZ 2110 does not open from the inside or outside. The cost of repair will be no more than 300 rubles, excluding new screwdrivers. The work will take 30 minutes. Anyone can remove the door and install the tip, even without specialized skills. At a service station they will charge 500 rubles for such a service.

Unlocking the lock

If the lock is blocked due to water ingress in winter, there are several ways to solve the problem:

1. Use a lock defroster. The substance is otherwise called “liquid key”. The product is available in the form of a spray.
2. Take matches and a lighter. Heat the key a little in the fire and insert it into the lock. Shake slightly to the sides. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to break the VAZ lock.
3. Spray the keyhole with alcohol or an alcohol-containing substance. For example, cologne or eau de toilette. Pure alcohol actively generates heat and dissolves ice.
4. Make a heating pad from a bottle of warm water or a bag of hot sand. Place the makeshift heater against the lock. Keep the heating pad on for a couple of minutes.
5. Pour some windshield washer fluid inside the lock. Remember, the washer contains isopropyl alcohol, which has an aggressive effect on metal.
6. Take a cocktail straw and insert it into the lock hole. Breathe inside. Warm air can melt ice.
7. Try applying silicone grease around the perimeter of the rubber seal. In some cases, the car door freezes in this very place.
8. Direct the hose containing the exhaust gas from the pipe of another vehicle into the lock.

If none of the methods help, all that remains is to drive the VAZ inside a warm garage. There the car will warm up, you can try to open the driver's door.

Never pour boiling water into the lock. This may damage the electrical wiring.

What to do if your car door is sagging

Signs of a sagging car door:

1. The doors do not close well or require force to open them.
2. When driving over uneven surfaces, the doors squeak (metal squeak).
3. After rain, water appears in the cabin.
4. There are scratches on the sills.
5. Due to the skew of the door, uneven gaps appear.

You should start by tightening the door hinge bolts. If this doesn't help, then try the following tips:

How to straighten car doors

The same method can be applied using a jack. The door should also be slightly open. We place a jack under the edge of the door through a block so as not to bend the door. We lift the door in the same way, at first a little, if this is not enough, we increase the force.

What will be needed for repairs

If the outside lock stops opening, go straight to the store. You will need to purchase:

• several new plastic tips suitable for VAZ;
• set of screwdrivers - one flat, Phillips;
• a set of plastic rivets that secure the casing.

All parts are sold at an automotive supply store. It is better to buy spare parts with a reserve, several sets. The parts are inexpensive. They can also come in handy if the door stops opening not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Take the sheathing fasteners just in case, since the sheet may have to be removed.

Design of silent locks

The silent lock works on the latch principle, which allows you to close the car door very quietly and effortlessly. Structurally, the lock consists of the following main parts:

• internal structure;
• outer panel;
• finger.

The control rod from the door handles, the rod from the cylinder, as well as the locking buttons are connected to the inside. During installation, the structure is connected to the outdoor unit using screws. As a result, a single mechanism is formed.

When closing, the outer part engages with a locking bar, which is attached to the car body pillar. As a result, the door is held closed.

The latch pin is a part that is covered with a plastic shell.

In addition to the fact that the door no longer needs to be closed with a slam, an additional advantage of such structures is that their rubbing surfaces are covered with plastic; they do not require additional care in the form of constant cleaning and lubrication.

How to restore car door locks

Many motorists have experienced poor performance of car door limiters. From the very beginning, the device begins to work in a certain position, then it breaks down completely. It is not entirely safe to operate a vehicle with such a malfunction.

To repair door stops, you can use one of several methods that experts offer.

Use metal nails or bushings. Many drivers claim that this is one of the safest and most convenient ways. In addition, he does not spend a lot of time, much less money. However, there are some dangers that can be encountered by 90% of motorists. The fact is that when inserting a nail into a faulty fastener, it is impossible to determine the exact parameters - length, thickness, diameter. As a result, the door will either close poorly or be difficult to open. In addition, the inserted nail or bushing will not be able to wear out due to its physical properties, but the limiter rod itself will wear out very quickly. If you allow such a breakdown, you may end up with more expensive repairs. Many car owners, from their own experience, advise not to resort to this option, since the nail quickly erases the retainer guide.

Buying a door stop. This method is chosen by almost all drivers who encounter a similar problem. Many people purchase an element for a VAZ 2110 car and use it as a donor to restore the door fixation - this is a very big mistake. For example, a limiter for a VAZ 2110 costs about 170 rubles. To repair two doors, you will need to spend 340 rubles. It is much more profitable to buy a repair kit, the cost of which does not exceed 500 rubles. The savings of 160 rubles are questionable. Another reason not to use a limiter from another machine as a donor is that upgrading the element to a special design will take a lot of time. In addition, many drivers remain dissatisfied with the result after completing the work. Let's take again a repair kit that is already designed for a specific model. A non-original element may not last long, and another negative consequence is the erasure of the limiter rod - this leads to additional costs.

How to carry out repairs. Let's look at how to fix a problem using a Lada Vesta as an example. The first step is to remove the door stop. To do this, remove the casing and unscrew the fasteners. After removing the element, you need to evaluate its condition. If there is no external damage or defects on it, you can remove the latches using a screwdriver. After this, we dismantle the plug - inside this element there is a spring and a “fungus”. The last element may wear out after just a year of operation. You can restore the operation of the device if you use a ball from a bearing instead of a “fungus”. After this, it is necessary to lubricate the structure completely, ordinary “Litol” will do for this, and install it in place.

Bottom line. Worn door stops are a problem that every driver faces. Experts do not recommend using parts from other models that are less expensive as donors. It is much easier to buy a repair kit or carry out the repair yourself.

Do your car doors close poorly?