Removing, cleaning and installing the throttle valve on an 8-valve engine (for use on the Lada Granta model)


Throttle Lada Granta 8 valve

Perhaps this is exactly the case when one should not interfere with a properly working mechanism, because...
There were no indications for surgical intervention in the Granta throttle assembly. The engine is running. Idle speed does not float. The throttle response to the electronic accelerator occurs as normal. Occasionally I noticed, standing at a traffic light, that the tachometer needle was trying to unobtrusively change its position, but the electronics quickly eliminated this incident. In early spring, one could refer to some amount of condensation that sometimes appears in the fuel system. Now, May. Warm. But sometimes the arrow still tries to “twitch”.

The situation is not annoying, but the mileage is under 17,000 km. indicates that behind the throttle it is not at all the same as it was in the first hundreds of kilometers.

I did not contact the “dealer” service station, where Grant was under warranty, to clean the throttle. After we “adjusted” the thermal clearances of the valves during maintenance-1, there was no desire to communicate with such “specialists”.

It’s high time for AVTOVAZ to check its dealers and subdealers for high-quality performance of work when undergoing scheduled maintenance of warranty vehicles. There are enough statistics. And those who are negligent will be punished with a ruble so that the desire to run an official car service will no longer exist once and for all.

If adjusting the “valves,” for me, still requires consolidating the experience gained, then with cleaning the throttle valve, everything is much simpler.

What you needed: *A 5mm hex wrench. *Star key T-20. *Brush flute. *Lubricant. *Thread lock. *New bolts with washers, made of stainless steel. *Phillips and slotted screwdriver. *Cheap degreaser. *Spray for cleaning carburetors and chokes. *Cotton rags. lint-free. *Disposable rag on a roll. *Rechargeable cylinders and a hand pump for them. *Garbage bag.

Using the “Open Diag” program, we take screenshots of the throttle position before starting cleaning.

Causes of pollution and how to deal with them

There are several reasons why the throttle body becomes dirty over time. By avoiding their appearance, you will automatically extend the time between cleaning it. Reasons mentioned include:

  • Using low-quality gasoline . If there is sediment in it, it will definitely get into the throttle assembly, where it will turn into carbon deposits. Therefore, try to fill in high-quality gasoline and refuel at proven gas stations.
  • Clogged fuel filter . If you do not change the fuel filter in time, then there is a possibility that pieces of dirt from it will get into the fuel system, including the throttle assembly.
  • Dust and dirt getting into the intake system . This can be caused by various reasons - clogged air filter, damage to the integrity of the air duct, various mechanical stress.
  • Crankcase gases with oil dust . They are the main cause of oil deposits on the valve. They can enter the combustion chamber through the valve cover from the crankcase ventilation system. The situation is aggravated by the fact that they carry oil dust. It is this that burns and remains as sediment on the surface of the throttle valve.

Change the air and fuel filters on time, fill with high-quality gasoline, and prevent dust from getting into the car's fresh air ventilation system. All this will save you from the need to clean the throttle valve ahead of schedule.

Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly

The throttle valve is turned by an electric motor through a gearbox. Both are built into the throttle body.

When starting and warming up the engine, as well as during idling, the flow of air into the cylinders is regulated by opening the throttle valve.

The throttle position is controlled by two sensors built into the throttle body.

The throttle valve opening angle is set by the electronic control unit (ECU) depending on the estimated amount of air that should enter the engine cylinders. This takes into account the operating mode of the engine (starting, warming up, idling, and so on), the temperature of the ambient air and the engine, and the position of the gas pedal.

Control commands are sent to the throttle assembly to the electric motor. At the same time, the ECU monitors the opening angle of the damper and, if necessary, sends appropriate commands to adjust its position. As a result of the fact that the ECU simultaneously regulates the amount of injected fuel and incoming air, the optimal composition of the combustible mixture is maintained in any engine operating mode.

The electric throttle body is sensitive to deposits that may accumulate on its inner surface. The resulting layer of deposits can interfere with the smooth movement of the throttle valve, jamming it (especially at low opening angles). As a result, the engine will operate unstably and even stall at idle, start poorly, and failures may also appear during transient conditions. To avoid this, as a preventive measure, deposits should be removed with special detergent compounds during regular vehicle maintenance. A large layer of deposits can completely block the movement of the damper. If flushing fails to restore the throttle assembly to operability, it must be replaced.

A malfunction or incorrect operation of the throttle assembly may be caused by a broken contact in its electrical circuit (oxidized terminals in the wiring harness connection block). In this case, it will be possible to restore operation by treating the terminals with a special compound for cleaning and protecting electrical contacts. There are other possible causes of the malfunction:

— no supply voltage is supplied to the throttle assembly;

— signals are not received from both throttle position sensors;

— The computer cannot recognize signals from the throttle position sensors.

In these cases, the engine control system goes into emergency mode. At the same time, the car retains the ability to independently move a short distance at a slow speed, which, in extreme cases, will allow it to be moved to a safe place (pull to the side of the road, leave an intersection, etc.).

The fact that the throttle assembly is operating in emergency mode may be indicated by a burning warning lamp for a malfunction of the engine management system and an increased speed of the crankshaft at idle (about 1500 rpm, despite the fact that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature). it will not respond to pressing the gas pedal.

Each of the throttle position sensors is a potentiometer. During operation, gradual wear of conductive paths and moving contacts occurs. Over time, wear can reach such an extent that the sensor cannot function correctly. The presence of two sensors increases the reliability of the entire unit.

If only one sensor fails, the warning lamp will light up, but the engine management system will switch to backup mode. In this case, the engine will respond adequately to pressing the gas pedal, but with worse performance parameters

The reserve mode allows you to drive your car to the repair site under your own power.

When is the damper adaptation performed?

The need for such an operation, which involves bringing high idle speeds to a standard value, arises not only after flushing the throttle assembly, but also in other cases, in particular in the following:

  • after the vehicle battery is completely discharged;
  • after replacing or removing the accelerator pedal;
  • after replacing or reconnecting the vehicle's electronic control unit.

Undoubted signs indicating that the damper needs to be trained immediately are the following phenomena:

  • whistling when revving;
  • inadequate behavior of the engine at idle;
  • lack of power at idle or failures.

Throttle assembly - removal, inspection, cleaning and installation of Lada Granta

The throttle assembly is non-separable, cannot be repaired and in case of malfunction it is replaced as an assembly. The need to perform work is determined by checking the technical condition of the engine control system.

To flush the throttle assembly, you need a means to clean the engine intake pipe. As a last resort, you can use a carburetor cleaner. If the problem cannot be eliminated using a cleaner, the throttle assembly must be replaced. After removing the throttle assembly, the gasket (O-ring) must be replaced. A product to clean and protect electrical contacts may be required.

To avoid damage to the electric drive, do not attempt to forcefully turn the throttle valve by applying force to it. When installing a new throttle assembly on a vehicle, special diagnostic equipment will be required in order to check the “calibration” of the throttle valve position in its extreme positions.

1. Prepare the car for work and disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.

8. Using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode, measure the resistance of the throttle position sensors between terminals 1 and 4. A working throttle assembly should have a resistance in the range of 750–1250 Ohms.

When performing the following operation, hold the throttle assembly with the electric drive upward so that the cleaning agent cannot flow down the throttle valve axis towards the gearmotor and get inside the mechanism.

9. Using a cleaning agent, we wash away deposits from the inner walls of the throttle assembly and from the throttle valve.

10. Wipe the throttle assembly with a clean rag and blow it with compressed air from a compressor or foot pump.

11. Install the throttle assembly in the reverse order, replacing the O-ring with a new one.

Increased idle speed, dips and jerks when accelerating the car, loss of power - all this indicates problems with the throttle valve, which needs to be removed and cleaned, or replaced, if cleaning does not give the desired result, the unpleasant phenomena persist.

The procedure for removing the throttle assembly on a LADA Granta car

To remove the damper you need to perform the following operations:

  1. The wire is disconnected from the negative terminal of the car battery.
  2. The tightening that secures the ventilation hose going to the engine crankcase is loosened.
  3. The hose attached to the fitting of the air supply pipe is disconnected.
  4. The clamp connecting the pipe and the throttle becomes loose.
  5. The pipe is disconnected.
  6. The connector connecting the wires to the throttle assembly is disconnected.
  7. The bolts securing the throttle valve are unscrewed.
  8. The gasket located on the flange of the intake module is dismantled.

It should be noted that the gasket is disposable; when dismantling it, it is necessary to subsequently install a new element.

Source

Self-cleansing procedure

If the damper is electronically actuated, then it is better to remove the negative terminal of the battery. Next, you can do everything according to simple instructions:

  • dismantle the air filter by unscrewing the pipe clamp;
  • disconnect all connectors of the throttle module and other pipes;
  • move the air filter receiver to the side so that it does not interfere, and begin cleaning the damper;
  • upon completion, reassemble the damper module in reverse order, checking that everything is in place;
  • After assembly, start the engine and check the idle speed.

In some cases, before you begin to adapt the throttle valve on a Toyota, Nissan or Skoda, it is necessary to remove the throttle itself, which allows you to completely clean the valve. To do this, you will need a 5 mm hexagon to unscrew the 4 fasteners. Removing the throttle should be done with great care, as there is a risk of damaging the gasket.

If, after cleaning the throttle body, increased idle speed is observed, it means that the damper needs to be adapted.

Instructions for cleaning the throttle body on LADA cars

In some cases, problems in engine operation may be associated with the formation of all kinds of deposits on the walls of the throttle valve. In this case, cleaning the throttle assembly (DU) can help. We'll tell you how to perform this procedure yourself. The remote control cleaning process is carried out similarly on all modern LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Priora, Granta, Kalina, Lada 4×4). You will find examples of work on specific LADA models in the comments.

It is not necessary to remove it to clean the throttle assembly. However, with the part removed, this can be done easier and better (see how to remove the remote control).

The book on repair and operation of the LADA Vesta car (and other LADA models) indicates that to flush the throttle assembly, you need a means to clean the engine inlet pipeline. As a last resort, you can use a carburetor cleaner.

We spray the cleaning agent not only on the throttle valve itself and the cavity around it, but also on all channels and hidden cavities. The use of soft rags is allowed. When cleaning the remote control with E-gas, make sure that the cleaning agent does not get into the electrical part of the unit. The process is shown in the video:

  • Do not remove the throttle valve mounting screws. If they are then poorly tightened and tightened, the loosened screw can get into the engine cylinder and damage it.
  • Use a coarse lint cloth or wire brush for cleaning.
  • Do not touch the throttle on cars with an electronic gas pedal, so as not to reset the factory setting.

If it was not possible to eliminate the engine malfunction by cleaning the throttle assembly, then the throttle assembly must be replaced (if you are sure that it is the cause of the malfunction). When installing a new throttle body, special diagnostic equipment may be required to check the "calibration" of the throttle position at the extreme positions. This operation can be performed at a specialized service station. See also: Procedure for adapting throttle valve zero on Lada Vesta and XRAY.

Have you ever had to clean the throttle body yourself? What were the difficulties?

Cleaning without removal

Also, many car owners are interested in the question of how to clean the throttle valve without removing it. Such methods do exist, but you must immediately understand that high-quality cleaning is only possible by dismantling the damper .

To do this, you will need a special product - an intake tract cleaner. You can use different brands. You can also use EGR valve cleaning fluid, WD-40, and solvents for cleaning.

So, the procedure without removing the node :

  1. As in the previous algorithm, you need to remove the air duct to get to the damper.
  2. With the damper closed, spray the surface with cleaning liquid and remove the cleaned dirt using a rag.
  3. Open the damper and remove dirt from the side surface.
  4. Make sure that the cleaning agent gets into all channels. The cleaning procedure is similar using a rag.

Let us repeat once again that for proper cleaning, the throttle valve must be removed from the car. And when installing it back, it is advisable to replace the damper gasket with a new one. Fortunately, its price is low.

It should also be remembered that in most cases, after cleaning the throttle valve, it is necessary to perform actions to “train” it . This procedure is carried out either using a computer (by connecting it to the car's ECU), or by manipulating the ignition and gas pedal. In this case, it is impossible to give universal recommendations, since they can differ significantly for each manufacturer and even model. Remember this!

Adaptation using the example of some cars

Another method, which we will consider using the example of one well-known German brand, also involves adaptation without a computer. Here you should warm up the engine to a temperature of approximately 70-99°C. The battery voltage must be at least 12.9 Volts when the engine is not running. The action plan for how to adapt the throttle valve on a Volkswagen will be something like this:

  • After warming up and turning off the engine, you should wait a short period (5-10 seconds).
  • With the gas pedal released, turn on the ignition and wait 3 seconds.
  • After 3 seconds, you need to press the accelerator pedal all the way 5 times and release it back. Act quickly, as you only have 5 seconds to do this.
  • After the 5th exercise, you should wait a pause.
  • After 7 seconds, press the pedal all the way again and hold it in this position until the “CHEK” indicator starts flashing (≈ 10 sec.), then it should remain on continuously (≈ 20 sec.).
  • When the indicator lights up constantly, count to three and only then release the pedal.
  • Start the engine (repeat if necessary), wait 20 seconds, then lightly accelerate (2000-3500). If the tachometer shows 700 rpm at XX (+- 50), it means that the adaptation was successful.

In this case, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the time intervals of each setting step. This is the only way the ECU training will go smoothly. But before that, it’s worth studying the adaptation features and the possibility of a manual procedure for your car. Perhaps only service station specialists can help.

The need to adapt remote sensing

This definition refers to the operation (or training) that is carried out so that the ECU “knows” what position the throttle valve is in relative to the degree of depression of the accelerator pedal. This procedure is simply necessary if the engine is unstable at idle.

For most Toyota, Lexus, Mercedes, Nissan, and Audi cars, it is necessary to adapt the throttle valve, as this allows you to eliminate the malfunction. The procedure is performed in the following cases:

  • in the event of a critical drop in the voltage of the on-board network (the battery is switched off or completely discharged);
  • the ECU was replaced;
  • the valve was cleaned and the throttle was removed;
  • when replacing the throttle module itself;
  • the accelerator pedal was replaced, usually with an electronic one.

It is worth noting that due to the layer of dirt, the gap between the damper and the body changes, and after cleaning the damper, its position has changed. But the ECU “has no idea” about this and continues to control the fuel supply according to previous indications (before the cleaning operation). Adaptation will completely eliminate this gap and restore engine performance.

Cleaning the throttle valve on the grant

Hi all! Guys, how can I clean the throttle on a Grant 8 valve? The revs have been fluctuating lately, they say that the idle speed sensor is clogged, they decided to clean it, and with it the throttle valve, but for some reason I’m afraid to clean it with kerosene, they seem to write that there is some kind of Teflon coating on it.. If you erase it, the speed will fluctuate. Who thinks what?

Carburetor/throttle cleaner aerosol, remove the terminal from the battery, remove the throttle and spray and do not touch the throttle with your hands

Before cleaning, it’s better to look at what % it is open on a warm engine at xx. And then the speed can jump for various reasons, and even a faulty adsorber will also give incorrect readings.

You unscrew it and see how dirty it is after cleaning, do an adaptation of the throttle

I cleaned it carefully with a cloth and warm soapy water, only then it needs to be adapted.

And how much is the mileage, if it’s not a secret? Why are you planning to do such a procedure, and even on your own...

Carb cleaner, soft cloth. Just don’t try to touch the valve with your hands. You'll mess up the calibration.

How do you know if you mess up the calibration?

The electronic damper is calibrated and cannot be moved. If you move it with your hands (open - close), you can throw it away; it will not work normally. Carefully pour in carb cleaner and wipe with a soft cloth. The whole hat will dissolve anyway.

A very effective product - aerosol, carbon deposits, all the blackness flows off in the same second. No rags are needed. I cleaned it on an old grant with 40 thousand of crap in it on a Brobeg...

You probably got it wrong on e-gas, there is no rxx, there at idle the throttle itself is slightly open, and the adaptation is - after assembly, turn on the ignition, wait 40-50 seconds and start it, somewhere it says that after waiting you need to turn off the ignition and start it back up, but on my Kalina car the car stalled, there was no traction, then I reset the ECU with initialization and after waiting 40-50 seconds, I didn’t turn off the ignition, but started it right away, everything worked fine, that’s all the throttle adaptation

Getting rid of engine vibration part 2. Throttle revision

1 Cleaning and lubricating the throttle
Recently, the car has become very annoying with the behavior of the throttle. The car reacted nervously and with a slight delay to pedal presses, the idle speed fluctuated greatly, and releasing the gas was like a blow. I went for spring diagnostics for 299 rubles. Everything is fine, no electrical problems. I checked the spark plugs and changed the fuel. There was no effect, I tried to remove and clean the throttle, but knowing AvtoVAZ I decided to look at the condition of the E gas reducer. I bought a throttle cleaner and got to work. When I unscrewed the throttle nuts, the studs came out with them. The studs are held inside the plastic manifold by nuts; they fell out. I had to look for new ones and use thread glue. The damper was crap quite badly, especially around the axis of rotation. I slightly lifted the flap and turned it; it moved with little effort and stuck. A view opened up to the end of the damper; there was a lot of carbon deposits on it, which interfered with the passage of air at idle. Hence the sausages at low speeds. I washed everything, blew it with a cleaner from the heart. The biggest surprise was waiting inside the gearbox. We open it and see a completely dry gearbox. Not a drop of grease on the gears. The idler gear shaft has wear and plastic dust from the gear. And there’s actually an oval hole in the lid! I blew it out and lubricated it, very little lubrication is needed. A little inside the idler gear, a little into the cover and onto the drive gear of the engine. We close everything and put it in place. The result is excellent. Before cleaning and inspection: — Starting the engine was accompanied by vibration and floating speed. — Idle speed fluctuated greatly from 830 to 950 revolutions, sharply and with dips. — Acceleration up to 2500 rpm was sluggish, after 2500 it was like a kick. The car accelerated faster. — The release of gas was accompanied by a strong nod, which created discomfort in the flow. — The overall reaction to the gas pedal was very sluggish. — Squeaking sound when the ignition is turned on. After cleaning and inspection: - Now the engine starts, somehow abruptly, the speed is stable, vibrations are minimal - Idle speed has become more even, floating within 860 - 900 revolutions. — Acceleration is now smooth throughout. There is no such jerk after 2500. — The throttle release is smooth, the needle falls smoothly

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