Why the VAZ-2107 speedometer drive does not work and how it can be replaced

This material will be somewhat philosophical, as we will try to understand why the VAZ 2107 tachometer jumps and its needle behaves inappropriately. Even if the quality of the engine does not change, there is still a feeling that something is wrong, the car is broken. The sight of an arrow jumping from side to side is somehow very annoying. What to do, how to get rid of this? Of course, there will be some features if you have an injector installed. However, even if there is a carburetor in the power system, the design of the tachometer turns out to be similar.

Tuning VAZ → how is the speedometer cable noisy?

When driving, the car makes sounds something like “shork-shork-shork” or “shur shur shur.” starting from about 10 km/h until I stop hearing this sound because of the wind. one might even say it makes a loud shuffling or rustling sound. About a year ago the speedometer started ticking, the needle starting from 40 goes “poke-poke-poke”. Could the speedometer drive now start shuffling? or is it something else.

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I can’t define O_o I’m just panicking.. it feels like people in the car are going crazy. To those who are traveling with me, I say: “Can you hear something making noise??” passenger(s) - “No, everything is quiet.” after about 30 minutes. Me: “Can you hear me now?” Passenger: “By the way, I can hear it now.” Me: “Well, where is the noise?” "Passenger:"mmmmmm. God knows, it’s unclear” Me: “Well, here’s another one”

I don’t really know where the noise is, when it seems in front, when in the back... my head is fucking spinning. Well, in the middle there’s definitely nothing to make noise. collapse branch

What do you need to know?

Often, problems with the speedometer are related to electronic problems. Although a lot depends on the car. For example, if the speedometer needle of a VAZ-2107 twitches, then it is not necessarily a matter of wiring. The speedometer in this car is of a mechanical type, there are a minimum of wires. Therefore, very often the problem is a cable that has lost tension.

At the same time, the issue may be a faulty speed sensor. Many motorists check its performance first. After all, it’s much easier than disassembling the dashboard, fixing the problem and putting it back together. Let's look in more detail at the main malfunctions of speedometers on some car brands and consider methods for eliminating them.

Why the VAZ-2107 speedometer drive does not work and how it can be replaced

The reason for the malfunction of the device often lies in the fact that the VAZ-2107 speedometer drive has failed.

Speedometer characteristics of this car model:

• display scale 0-180 km/h;
• speed coverage 20-160 km/h;
• gear ratio 1 to 1000.

The speedometer drive of the VAZ-2107 car model looks like a braided cable, which ensures the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the device. One end of it is connected to the speedometer mechanism, and the other to the gearbox on the gearbox.

Main speedometer malfunctions:

• the device does not determine the current speed;
• the drive is noisy.

The speedometer does not work for the following reasons:

• the mechanism is broken and needs to be replaced;
• The locknuts securing the ends of the flexible shaft have been unscrewed. They need to be screwed in;
• the flexible shaft is broken. A new part needs to be installed;
• The drive tip or mating socket is damaged. In this case, the device itself or the speedometer cable is changed.

The drive can make noise for the following reasons:

• the cable has a small bending radius. Here it is necessary to re-route the drive;
• The cable sheath is damaged. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the speedometer drive assembly.

As practice shows, the largest number of breakdowns of the VAZ-2107 speedometer are associated with its drive and can be eliminated by replacing the flexible cable. To do this you will need pliers and a screwdriver. To facilitate installation, you can use steel wire with a length of about 2 m and a cross-section of 0.5 mm. The drive is fixed in the lower part of the crankcase to the gearbox, so repairs require a lift or inspection hole.

Dismantling the VAZ-2107 speedometer drive

The actions are performed in the following sequence:

• the car is installed on an inspection hole;
• the ground wire is disconnected from the battery;
• the instrument panel is removed;
• the nut securing the drive to the speedometer is unscrewed and it is disconnected;
• a wire is tied to the eye of the nut;
• the nut securing the flexible shaft to the gearbox is unscrewed;
• the speedometer cable is disconnected from the gearbox;
• the drive is pulled out so that the guide wire remains in it;
• the wire comes untied from the nut.

Installation of the VAZ-2107 speedometer drive

Before installation, you must remove the cable from the braid and treat it with Litol lubricant, and then insert it back. Then you need to fix the guide wire to the drive fastening nut and pull it from below the car into the interior.

The following steps are carried out in the reverse order of removing the speedometer cable.

Typical faults

There is no need to talk about the reliability or unreliability of this sensor. On some cars it works throughout its entire service life, while on others it often fails. However, there are a number of typical problems that motorists face:

• Failure due to old age. Each electronic device, regardless of quality, has its own resource. Therefore, it can fail at any time.
• Mechanical impact. Simply put, damage to the sensor housing or wiring. If any work has been done to remove and install the sensor, it is likely to be damaged.
• Oxidized, dried out or broken wires. Also, the wiring simply wears out its own life if it has not been changed for a long time.
• The sensor does not fit this car model. In this case, you should not count on correct speedometer readings.

The speedometer cable of the VAZ 2107 is noisy

VAZ 2107 speedometer malfunctions

A speedometer malfunction is a non-critical, but quite unpleasant problem. Data on mileage and, most importantly, current speed should not be neglected. The cause of the problem lies in a breakdown of the speedometer or its drive. To repair a VAZ 2107 speedometer, it is enough to have minimal repair skills.

Speedometer VAZ 2107

The device serves to indicate the current speed of the vehicle and record its total and daily mileage. The characteristics of the VAZ 2107 speedometer do not differ from other “classic” VAZ speedometers:

• indication range: 0-180 km/h;
• measured speed range: 20-160 km/h;
• gear ratio: 1 to 1000.

The VAZ 2107 speedometer, unlike the VAZ 2106, is manufactured without a housing.

Speedometer drive VAZ 2107

The speedometer cable (drive) is a flexible braided cable and serves to transmit torque from the gearbox to the speedometer. One end of the drive is connected to the gearbox on the gearbox, the other to the speedometer mechanism.

Basic speedometer faults

Malfunctions can be divided into two types:

• the speedometer does not show the current speed;
• The speedometer drive is noisy.

The VAZ 2107 speedometer may not work for the following reasons:

1. The speedometer is faulty. In this case, the device must be replaced.
2. The nuts securing the ends of the flexible shaft have come loose. To fix the problem, they need to be screwed on.
3. The flexible shaft is broken. It must be replaced to restore the speedometer's functionality.
4. The tip of the flexible shaft or the mating socket on the speedometer is damaged. In this case, you should change the VAZ 2107 speedometer cable or the speedometer itself
5. The flexible shaft drive is faulty or the speedometer drive socket in the gearbox is damaged. This is a rare breakdown, the elimination of which involves repairing the gearbox and is worthy of description in a separate article.

The VAZ 2107 speedometer drive can make noise for two reasons:

1. The drive is laid with small bending radii. To fix the problem, you need to re-route the speedometer cable, having previously lubricated it.
2. The braiding of the VAZ 2107 speedometer cable is damaged. In this case, the flexible speedometer drive assembly needs to be replaced.

Atypical breakdowns

If the speedometer needle twitches (2109 is a VAZ or another model - it doesn’t matter, this type of breakdown is common to many cars), and the above method did not help, then there are several more options. One of them is wedging the arrow in a certain position. Therefore, when picking up speed, the instruments may show normally, but at some point there will be a jump. The problem can be solved by disassembling the dashboard and repairing the speedometer. It is likely that you will need to remove the arrow and lubricate it or replace it with a new one.

Another atypical failure is the failure of gears after turning off the mileage on a mechanical speedometer. It is quite rare and suggests that the technicians who corrected the mileage did not take too much pride in the car. But on the electronic speedometer, when the mileage is increased, the system may be blocked, and the “Check Engine” error will appear on the dashboard. The last thing you should look at is the on-board computer, but this only applies to electronic systems.

The speedometer cable of the VAZ 2107 is noisy

Moderator: Rustem

Speedometer cable whistle

Unread message by sadizd666 » Tue Jan 12, 2010 06:32:58 PM

Get the hell out of it.

then see what condition it is in, if it is worn out then replace it, if it is in good condition then dig deeper

Added after 1 minute 2 seconds:

or the lubricant in the jacket has dried out, if the cable is dry, then pour oil there..

Unread message sadizd666 » Tue Jan 12, 2010 21:20:14

Unread message Alex » Tue Jan 12, 2010 21:22:54

Added after 33 seconds:

Unread message sadizd666 » Tue Jan 12, 2010 21:34:42

But won't the oil leak out from below? where is it attached to the box?

Added after 49 seconds:

Unread message by Inoy84 » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:33:20 AM

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message byran » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:17:25

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message ella » Sat Apr 03, 2010 12:50:18

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Serega73 » Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:19:13

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Violent » Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:08:54

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message ella » Sun Apr 04, 2010 13:00:46

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Serega73 » Sun Apr 04, 2010 15:04:10

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Buiny » Sun Apr 04, 2010 18:29:31

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message ella » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:40:15

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Susanin » Tue Apr 06, 2010 21:42:33

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message byran » Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:51:06

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message Stalkerun » Wed Apr 07, 2010 14:15:38

Re: Speedometer cable whistling

Unread message ella » Wed Apr 07, 2010 16:07:25

oil is leaking from the drive. It’s just that your drive is already worn out. It can only be eliminated by replacing it. It was leaking on my old box too. I thought it wasn’t from him, but the leak stopped as soon as I changed the drive code!

about the cable. Again today the convulsions at the speedometer needle started. They either appear, THEN DISAPPEAR! In short, you need to try changing the cable anyway

Design and purpose of the tachometer

The purpose of the VAZ tachometer is to visualize the readings of the crankshaft. The device shows how fast the crankshaft rotates per minute, these readings are also called engine speed. Structurally, the VAZ 2107 tachometer is a milliammeter connected in one housing to an electronic part; these elements are installed on a printed circuit board.

As for the principle of operation, it consists in measuring the frequency of pulse transmission in the primary circuit of the engine ignition system. With the power unit operating, during one revolution of the camshaft, the contacts on the breaker should close and open 4 times. Accordingly, with one revolution, 4 voltage and current pulses are formed in the electrical circuit. As the crankshaft speed increases, the pulse transmission frequency also increases, which, in turn, affects the deflection of the instrument needle.

Tachometer malfunctions

The VAZ 2107 can have two types of engines: carburetor and injection. The electrical circuit for connecting tachometers in these cars is different from each other, and they are not interchangeable. Therefore, troubleshooting related to tachometer failure will differ depending on the engine type.

• On a carburetor engine, three wires come from the tachometer. Two wires are the power (plus and minus), and the third is connected to terminal K of the ignition coil. In order to find out what caused the failure, you need to get to the back of the instrument cluster and disconnect the terminals from the block that goes to the tachometer. Next, you will need three wires to connect the tachometer directly to the battery (plus and minus) and to the ignition coil (terminal K). You start the engine, and if under such conditions the tachometer does not work, then the problem will have to be looked for either in the ignition system or in the tachometer itself, and if the tachometer starts working, then the fault lies in the wiring that goes to the tachometer.
• On the injection engine of a VAZ 2107 car, four wires go to the tachometer. Two wires are power (plus comes from the ignition switch, minus to the vehicle ground), the third wire goes to the input of the electronic control unit, and the fourth is connected to the crankshaft position sensor. The best way to determine malfunctions in the tachometer in this case is to carry out appropriate diagnostics. Then, using the error codes, you find out the reason for the failure. Without diagnostics, you can only check the condition of the contacts in the blocks included in the electrical circuit of the tachometer and, by replacing the crankshaft position sensor with a known good one, check its functionality.
• The tachometer may malfunction if the insulation of high-voltage wires is broken or the ignition coil is faulty. In this case, interruptions in engine operation and “floating” speed are also possible. In addition to the wires and coil, it is necessary to check the condition and adjustment of the breaker contact and the capacitance of the capacitor on it (for carburetor sevens). Faulty wires and, as a result, unstable engine operation, cause the tachometer to “jump” on injection VAZ models.
• Fuel system malfunction. The cause of interruptions in engine operation and jumps in the tachometer needle can be either low-quality fuel or problems in the injection system. On carburetor models, disassemble the carburetor and clean the jets. Most often, a “jumping” tachometer is the result of a clogged idle jet. The VAZ 2107 tachometer (injector) can “jump” if there are problems in the injection system. In this case, it is necessary to flush the injectors. To check and clean the injection system, you need a special stand and equipment. It is better to entrust such work to service station specialists.
• Malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism. When the tachometer needle begins to “jump” at high speeds, the problem may be associated with a malfunctioning gas distribution mechanism. In this case, it is necessary to check the tension of the timing belt connecting the crankshaft to the camshaft.

The speedometer cable of the VAZ 2107 is noisy

Messages: 1428 Registered: Sep 27, 2007, 00:00 From: Tyumen, microdistricts Experience: 2003 :
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VAZ 2107. The speedometer has gone crazy!

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Post 880 » 02 May 2009, 22:02

The problem is a strange twitching of the speedometer needle. It all started after I switched to summer tires in mid-April. Since then, the speedometer needle jerks strongly when driving, i.e. shows the speed correctly, but at the same time they crack. What’s most interesting is that at speeds above 80 km/h the speedometer works clearly. And one more strange thing: when leaving in the morning there are no problems either, but after driving 2-3 kilometers the needle begins to shake. I was at the service station, but apparently frightened of the mechanic, the needle stood rooted to the spot, clearly showing the speed.

Maybe someone can tell me where to look for the problem.

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Posted by Denver » 02 May 2009, 22:11

Messages: 141 Registered: Dec 18, 2007, 00:00 From: Belgorod Experience: 1997 Car: Grand Cherokee (WJ) :
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Post by Wofftai » May 02, 2009, 10:18 pm

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Message 172RUS » 02 May 2009, 22:24

Classification by operating principle

• Mechanical or electromechanical tachometers with direct drive. The revolutions are transmitted to the dial indicator through a flexible shaft, which, through a worm gear, receives rotation directly from the crankshaft or one of the transmission shafts. The operating principle of the indicator is based on the phenomenon of eddy current induction. The operation and design of a magnetic tachometer are extremely similar to the operating principle of a car speedometer. In modern cars, a similar tachometer design is not used.
• Electric machine. A distinctive feature is the connection to a generator. It is used primarily on diesel engines, but for the purpose of unification, a device of this type can also be used on gasoline engines.
• Electronic. The signal can be taken either from the ignition system or directly from the computer. Installed on gasoline and diesel internal combustion engines.

Design and principle of operation

Main components of electric machine and electronic tachometers:

• measuring unit, or signal converter. It can be based on elements of analog circuitry or built using special microcircuits;
• display unit with analogue or digital display of the number of revolutions;
• auxiliary elements.

Connection diagram

When looking for the reason why the tachometer does not work, it is first of all important to understand the connection diagram and the type of signal. There are 3 typical connection schemes:

• to a contactless ignition system (the tachometer wire is connected to the primary circuit of the ignition coil). The operating principle is based on measuring the frequency of voltage surges in the primary circuit of the ignition system. Calculating the ignition angle is impossible without focusing on the number of crankshaft revolutions, therefore the sparking frequency directly depends on the crankshaft rotation speed. On 4-cylinder internal combustion engines, a full revolution of the crankshaft corresponds to 2 voltage pulses in the primary circuit. Accordingly, the higher the crankshaft rotation speed, the greater the frequency of voltage surges;
• connection to the contact ignition system. The operating principle and connection diagram are similar to the BSZ, but the design of the measuring unit will differ depending on the voltage of the input circuit;
• connection to the engine ECU. The principle of operation is still based on recording voltage pulses in the primary circuit of the ignition system, but the signal to the tachometer comes from the engine control unit;
• connection to the generator (the tachometer signal contact is connected to terminal W of the generator). The rotation of the generator pulley is carried out by a belt drive from the crankshaft, so the rotation speed of the generator rotor will always be proportional to the crankshaft speed. The change in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft can be calculated by constantly measuring the amount of EMF generated on the winding. According to its principle of operation, an electric machine tachometer resembles a regular one class=”aligncenter” width=”448″ height=”412″

Typical faults

If the mechanical tachometer on a car stops working, there is mechanical damage to any of the structural elements. A broken cable of a flexible shaft, wear of the worm gear elements, the appearance of backlashes, deformations - all these reasons can cause the engine speed indicator to fail.

What to pay attention to if the electronic tachometer does not work:

wiring integrity

In this case, it is important to check not only the signal wire, but also the ground and power supply of the instrument panel; quality of contacts. The presence of oxides and loose contact inside the chips may well cause the tachometer to fail; the integrity of the elements of the measuring unit, which are located behind the protective glass inside the dashboard. Among mechanical damage to transistors, burnout of microcircuits, tracks or swelling of resistors, the most common reason for a non-working tachometer is a violation of solder integrity

For example, on the Mitsubishi Padjero II, the appearance of microcracks in the soldering areas of the tachometer elements is a generally recognized disease.

Among mechanical damage to transistors, burnout of microcircuits, tracks or swelling of resistors, the most common reason for a non-working tachometer is a violation of solder integrity. For example, on the Mitsubishi Padjero II, the appearance of microcracks in the soldering areas of the tachometer elements is a generally recognized disease.

Replacing the speedometer cable for a VAZ 2107 injector. How to change the speedometer cable on a VAZ 2107

The drive can make noise for the following reasons:

• the cable has a small bending radius. Here it is necessary to re-route the drive;
• The cable sheath is damaged. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the speedometer drive assembly.

As practice shows, the largest number of breakdowns of the VAZ-2107 speedometer are associated with its drive and can be eliminated by replacing the flexible cable. To do this you will need pliers and a screwdriver. To facilitate installation, you can use steel wire with a length of about 2 m and a cross-section of 0.5 mm. The drive is fixed in the lower part of the crankcase to the gearbox, so repairs require a lift or inspection hole.

Checking and replacing the VAZ 2107 speed sensor

While the vehicle is moving, the VAZ 2107 speed sensor (injector) generates speed data sent to the electronic engine control unit. Its breakdown causes injection control errors and leads to a drop in engine power and an increase in fuel consumption. You can check and replace the sensor yourself. To do this, you will need a garage with an inspection hole, a slotted screwdriver, a 22 mm wrench and a multimeter or test lamp.

Mechanism design

On a plastic case with a glass holder there is a milliammeter of the usual classical structure with an attached scale. On it, zones of dangerous crankshaft speeds are indicated in different colors: the preliminary zone (5500-6000) is highlighted in yellow, and the dangerous speed zone (more than 6000) is highlighted with red lines.

The device is uniformly illuminated by an AMN 12-3 lamp. At the bottom of the scale there are three colored lights, indicating respectively: the amount of charge, oil pressure and the status of the parking brake. Inside the tachometer there is a moving coil with a permanent magnet, thanks to which the pulse indicator needle is set in motion.

The device is electronic, so it is powered by the car's ignition.

Speed ​​sensor problem

In order to understand the question of why the speedometer needle twitches, it is necessary to become more familiar with the design of the car. For example, domestic classics did not have a speed sensor. The system worked approximately as follows. The gearbox contained a motor (drive), which, while the car was moving, turned a cable going to the speedometer.

If the motor failed, then the arrow on the instrument panel completely “died” and always showed “0”. But most modern cars are equipped with a speed sensor that is installed in the gearbox. It determines the speed limit practically without error and transmits data to the speedometer via wires. From the same wire and sensor, data also comes from the distance traveled, that is, to the odometer.

Replacing the speed sensor

If the speedometer needle of a VAZ-2107 twitches, then it is necessary to replace the cable or worn-out gears, the edges of which have already worn out during the operation of the car. This rule applies to practically all cars that are equipped with a manual transmission. A speed sensor is installed in the automatic transmission. Let's look at the replacement process using Accent as an example.

To carry out the work, we will need to buy original speed sensors costing 800-900 rubles apiece. From the tool you need a wrench for 10 and 12, as well as the corresponding heads. There are two sensors in total. The first is located on top of the box, the second on the bottom. To get to the top one, you need to dismantle the air filter box and remove the battery from the platform. After that, use a 10mm key to unscrew the old one and install the new one. The lower sensor is located behind the left wheel. To get to it, you need to remove the box protection and the front part of the fender liner.

Troubleshooting Methods

Usually, the functionality of control devices can be restored by replacing the speed sensor. As an example, consider the Hyundai Accent car. The speedometer needle twitches - we go to the store to buy a new speed sensor. With a high mileage of this brand of car, this is a completely typical problem that many motorists encounter. If the gearbox is mechanical, then the problem is most often solved by replacing the cable. Lubrication with WD-40 also helps, but this is more of a temporary solution, so the problem may return in the future.

As for automatic transmissions, there are sensors installed there that often fail. Changing them won't be difficult. Let's see exactly how to do this and what we need to complete the work.

A few important nuances

So we, in fact, figured out why the speedometer needle may twitch. As you can see, there can be a lot of reasons. But, when faced with such a problem, it is not at all necessary to immediately go to the service station. The malfunction can often be fixed on your own, of course, if you have the time and desire.

Oddly enough, with electronic systems in this case everything is much simpler. In most cases, it all ends with a banal replacement of the speed sensor or wiring. Another thing is that this sensor costs a lot of money for some cars. In this case, you can try to find a worthy analogue using online catalogs. But it is better to avoid openly Chinese products, which attract with their low cost. After all, such a sensor can please the owner of the car with correct operation for a short period of time, or even not work at all immediately after installation.