Ventilation and heating system VAZ 2109
As you know, on the VAZ 2109, interior heating is provided by air heated by a radiator. On the VAZ 2109, heating and ventilation of the interior are interconnected and represent a special system. In this article we will look at the general principles of operation of the heating and ventilation system of the VAZ 2109.
Construction and operation of the VAZ-2109 stove. Repair instructions.
Heating of the interior of any car is provided by air, which is heated in the heater radiator. The VAZ 2109 heater radiator is connected in parallel to the main radiator, which is part of the cooling system of a car engine.
The heater itself is secured with four nuts in the passenger compartment under the instrument panel to bolts that are welded to the air supply box. The air heated in the heater is directed through an air duct system into the passenger compartment. The air ducts are attached to the instrument panel from below and sealed with gaskets.
Functionality check
To begin with, especially if serious repairs are not yet in your plans, you need to try to help the damper sit in its place. Why turn on the ignition and, moving the regulator to different positions, manually move the damper, trying to “seat” it as expected.
When checking and adjusting this way, you must first remove the deflector to get to the heater damper. If you succeed, and the damper begins to move, obeying the regulator, you can consider that the half-measure was a success.
The fact is that if the socket is loose, normal operation is impossible, and over time you will still need to replace the VAZ 2110 heater damper. Therefore, you can still drive if there is such a need, but heater repair is just around the corner.
If it turns out that the damper can only be controlled manually when the ignition is turned on and the regulator is turned to its extreme positions, then the cause is most likely MMR. What often helps here is not repair, but replacement of this micromotor gearbox.
In addition, the fact that the damper does not work as it should, its adjustment does not give the desired result, can also be blamed on the microfan with a temperature sensor, as well as the control unit.
If any of the mentioned heater components fail, the best solution for the VAZ 2110 is to replace them, otherwise repairs will later require more significant investments.
Features of the VAZ 2109 stove design
1. Heater casing mounting bracket; 2. Heater control damper; 3. Left heater casing; 4. Leg heating damper rod; 5. Radiator gasket; 6. Radiator; 7. Heater gasket; 8. Electric motor; 9. Fan shrouds; 10. Fan impeller; 11. Heating damper; 12. Heated windshield air duct; 13. Side nozzle air duct; 14. Side nozzle; 15. Central nozzle flap; 16. Blade pusher; 17. Blade axis; 18. Shoulder blade; 19. Lever for shutting off the central nozzle; 20. Windshield heating damper rod; 21. Lever for changing the direction of air flow; 22. Air heating control handle; 23. Windshield air supply handle; 24. Leg air supply handle; 25. Control lever bracket; 26. Bracket for fastening the rod shell; 27. Crane control rod; 28. Heater control damper rod; 29. Foot heating flap; 30. Axes of air heating control levers; 31. Screw clamp; 32. Heater valve; 33. Crane body; 34. Valve lever; 35. Hoses connecting the tap to the heater radiator; 36. Internal ventilation duct; 37. Windows for heating the feet of rear passengers; 38. Heater valve; 39. Driver's foot heating window; 40. Facing the central pillar; 41. Internal cavity of the central pillar; 42. Exhaust ventilation duct; 43. Center pillar upholstery; 44. Exhaust ventilation deflector lining; 45. Rubber valve; 46. Deflector housing; 47. Exhaust ventilation deflector; 48. I. Heater; 49.II. Heater operation diagram; 50.III. Heater valve; 51.IV. Interior exhaust ventilation
Causes of poor foot airflow
Heater malfunction
Air through the cabin filter is taken from the street by the rotating blades of the electric heater motor. Through a damper system, air is distributed through air ducts and supplied into the cabin through deflectors and non-adjustable grilles.
Air, like any gaseous medium, tends to follow the path of least resistance. Therefore, it is logical that the air flows first come out of the central and side deflectors. The feet of the driver and passengers are blown last. Structurally, the air ducts to the central deflector and the upper side airflow points have a larger cross-section, and it is much easier for air to pass through them.
Initially, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the intake of air from the atmosphere. After all, if the air is supplied in insufficient volume, then it will not be enough to supply all airflow points with the intensity that was calculated at the design stage of the car.
Check the condition of the cabin filter. To do this, remove the wipers and frill. The cabin filter is located on the right side of the vehicle under the windshield. It is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with four self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the cabin filter. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature and check the operation of the stove. If the situation has improved, change the cabin filter and close the issue.
The second common cause is a clogged heater core. In this case, the heating of the interior will be weak, because warm air does not come out of all the deflectors well, and not just into the legs. But the fact is that when driving for a long time, your feet begin to freeze first, so it seems that the problem is in this part of the airflow.
Video: Why the stove does not blow at the feet of VAZ 2111,2110
This malfunction is easily diagnosed. We find two pipes for supplying antifreeze to the heater radiator (rubber hoses on the left side in the direction of travel of the car). With the engine warm, carefully touch the two pipes one at a time with the heater running at full power. The difference in temperature between the pipes should be minimal. If one pipe is hot and the second is cold or barely warm, we wash or replace the heater radiator.
Checking the operation of the dampers
There are nine exit points for air flows from the heater on the VAZ-2110:
- central deflector;
- two side deflectors and two windshield air vents;
- heated feet of the driver and front passenger;
- two outputs for heating the feet of rear passengers.
In an ideally operating system, the pressure generated by the heater motor is sufficient to create an effective flow to warm the feet. However, over time, gaps form in the joints of the air ducts, and the dampers of the VAZ-2110 heater begin to fit loosely to the body. This leads to atomization of the air flow. As a result, a minimum amount of air reaches the distant exit points.
First, dismantle the panel with the central deflector. It is held in place by four plastic clips. To remove it, simply pry it off one of the sides with a suitable object, such as a flat-head screwdriver. Be careful: the clips are fragile.
Evaluate the damper's performance
In older cars with a manual damper drive, pay attention to the play in the linkage of the rods. A broken rod system will not allow the damper to fit tightly to the body in the extreme position, which will cause air to leak from the cold circuit
The problem is corrected by adjusting the damper. In a mechanical drive, it is possible to shorten the rod due to a movable lock on a gear rod or a threaded tip. During the adjustment process, check that the position of the switch on the panel corresponds to the actual position of the damper.
Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not blow into your feet is a malfunction in the operation of the automatic heater control system (AHC) unit or the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. In this case, there is usually insufficiently warm or even cold air from the stove operating in maximum heating mode. This is due to the incorrect position of the damper in which the gearmotor sets it.
Evaluate the operation of the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. To do this, visually check how it closes the damper when switching modes. The easiest way to do this is to remove the panel with the central deflector. Move the temperature knob to the extreme position (for example, set the minimum temperature), then sharply switch to the opposite mode. The damper should completely block the channel visible from the driver's position. If this does not happen, the problem lies in the gear motor or the automatic control system unit. Check the serviceability of the gearmotor and unit.
Features of operation and repair of the VAZ 2109 stove
Many owners of a domestic car of this brand know that the VAZ 2109’s heater does not heat well. As a result, the interior warms up poorly, and driving in such a car is not comfortable. In such cases, the stove is modified. Most often this is done within the framework of VAZ 2109 tuning with your own hands. Video and photo instructions for do-it-yourself tuning work can be found on the Internet. But sometimes it is enough to remove the VAZ 2109 stove and take it for repairs.
The operating procedure is described below.
- Loosen the clamps and disconnect the two hoses from the tap pipes under the instrument panel from inside the cabin.
- Loosen the clamps and disconnect the hoses in the engine compartment from the tap pipes.
- Unscrew the nuts securing the stove faucet.
- Remove the valve from the front panel.
- Remove the crane rod holder.
- Disconnect the rod from the crane lever.
- Remove the cover protecting the gear shift lever from the floor tunnel lining.
- Remove the floor covering.
- Unscrew the fastening screw at the rear of the floor covering tunnel.
- We remove the floor tunnel lining with a shift back.
- We remove the internal ventilation duct and disconnect it from the stove body.
- Disconnect the wires from the heater motor.
- Disconnect the wires from the resistor.
- Unscrew the mounting nuts on the right side of the heater.
- Unscrew the fastening nuts and remove the heater along with the control panel.
Selecting a heating tap and cost of the part
A driver faced with a leaking heating tap will inevitably be faced with the question: which tap to buy as a replacement? The question is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Because there are three types of heating taps, which differ not only in cost, but also in design. Let's list them:
- faucet with membrane. This is exactly the crane that the manufacturer installed on the “nines” that came off the production line. Cost - from 400 rubles. This is the cheapest faucet that can be found on the market today. However, the low price should not deceive the car owner: the reliability of membrane taps leaves much to be desired. And you can purchase them only in one case: when you couldn’t find anything else;
- ball valve As the name suggests, the locking element in this device is a massive ball, which is much more reliable than a standard membrane. However, the above ball is made of steel. And therefore susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, a car owner who decides to open the tap with the onset of cold weather may be in for a very unpleasant surprise. The cost of such a crane starts from 550 rubles;
- ceramic faucet. The most reliable and at the same time the most expensive option. Corrosion is not a problem for such devices: their body is made of plastic, and the antifreeze is locked by two tightly pressed ceramic plates. The cost of a ceramic faucet starts from 700 rubles, and if the car owner is not short of money, then ceramics should be purchased.
We check and repair the BA3 2109 stove
Interior heating is an important system, which, if it breaks down, can unexpectedly cause discomfort during the cold season. To prevent this, it is necessary that the 2109 stove is maintained in good condition. You should know how we get warm air into the cabin at the exit. Knowing the principle of operation of the engine cooling system and the electric heating ventilation drive, it is not difficult to repair the VAZ 2109 stove with your own hands.
At first glance, the interior heater seems to be a primitive device. Like, the car is driving towards the air flow, air is sucked in, somehow it is heated, and now it is already warm in the cabin. But it is not so. The stove is an auxiliary radiator for the engine cooling system, and air is pumped into the cabin using an electric drive. Therefore, let’s figure out how the stove receives heat from the cooling system and study its electrical circuit. Knowing this, you can identify malfunctions in the heater. Let's find out how to replace the VAZ 2109 stove fan with your own hands.
Installation of deflectors
Having gained access to the space behind the bumper, we mark out future windows and cut them out with a jigsaw, grinder or other convenient tools. It should be noted that 1118 deflectors are designed for thicker seats than the thickness of the metal in the place we need. Therefore, when cutting out windows, it is advisable to provide tabs that need to be bent, thus forming thickenings of the metal, which will catch the latches of the deflectors. However, the latches are very fragile: on one of my deflectors the top pair broke. Having realized that this did not suit me, it was decided to use only the lower latches as hooks, and fix the deflector on top with self-tapping screws, which ensures complete reliability.
Place of the heater in the engine cooling system
The stove is part of a closed vacuum coolant circulation system. The main purpose of this system is engine cooling. Thus, the design of the VAZ 2109 stove both helps to heat the interior in cold weather and cools the cylinder block when the engine is running. The entire SOD consists of:
- cooling jackets;
- radiator;
- expansion tank;
- water pump;
- radiator fan;
- thermostat;
- heating radiator - VAZ 2109 stove.
When driving, atmospheric air passes through the air intake into the radiator, the pipes of which contain air that is too hot for the engine. These pipes are cooled by a fan, and the already cooled liquid again enters the cooling jacket (cylinder block and cylinder head) through the water pump. The stove in this antifreeze cycle performs the task of additionally removing hot liquid.
The VAZ 2109 heating fan maintains the desired air temperature in the cabin.
Reasons for decreased performance
Despite the simplicity of the design, problems with the VAZ-2114 stove often arise. They are mainly associated with a drop in the performance of the heating system - the stove heats the air poorly, blows cold or slightly warm air. In this case, the reasons for poor operation of the stove can be both general (warming up is weak at any control unit settings) and when operating in a certain mode, for example, at idle. Or, for example, cold air or slightly warm air blows only on the side windows, and in other modes the heating works normally.
Common reasons why the stove stops heating:
- the heater radiator is clogged or an air lock has formed in it;
- when switched to heating mode, the heater damper does not fit tightly to the body, which is why part of the air flow moves bypassing the radiator and enters the cabin cold;
- the tap does not open completely - this is one of the main reasons for a poorly heating stove;
- the formation of cracks at the joints of the housing and air ducts, which causes strong dispersion of the air flow.
It is not difficult to determine the cause of a general decrease in the efficiency of the heating system. To find out why the VAZ-2114 stove does not heat well, you need to remove the side decorative panels from the center console, and then warm up the engine and turn on the stove at maximum power. After this, we try the antifreeze supply pipe to the heater radiator up to the tap and behind it. The same heating temperature of the tube on both sides indicates that the tap is working properly and the problem lies in the radiator. If after the tap the pipe is less warmed up, the tap is jammed or does not open completely.
After this, we determine the temperature at the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator. If the heat exchanger is not clogged and there is no plug in it, then the temperature of the outlet pipe will be lower than the inlet pipe. But if the outlet tube is cold, antifreeze does not circulate through the radiator, which indicates the formation of an air lock (airing) or clogging.
A common cause of failure of the VAZ-2114 stove is wear and play in the sliders. Because of this, even when they are moved to their extreme positions, the cables do not bring the valve and dampers to the stop (the valve remains closed, and the dampers do not block the air flow channels). This problem can be easily resolved - you need to make an adjustment and shorten the cables a little.
The problem of insufficient heating of one of the zones is associated with a violation of the damper control. This happens due to the same wear on the sliders, the cable jumping off the damper levers, the damper axes jumping out of the seats in the body, which is accompanied by clicks.
In addition to weak warming up, VAZ-2114 car owners are faced with the fact that the intensity of air flow decreases. This happens due to the dispersion of air through the cracks at the junction of the body and air ducts, clogging the latter with debris - many owners do not install cabin filters, so leaves get into the air ducts and interfere with air movement.
Electrical diagram of the stove and main faults
In the “nine”, the VAZ heating system operates using an electric drive. The instruction manual for the VAZ 2109 high panel shows an electrical diagram of the stove's operation. The interior heater connection diagram consists of:
- fan motor;
- the ignition switch, which turns on the stove;
- operating mode switch;
- additional resistor;
- fuse mounting block (fuse F4 is responsible for the stove in the “nine”).
When the VAZ 2109 stove does not heat well in the cabin, there can be a lot of reasons for this.
≡ 4 November 2015 Category: Repair
Tightening the cable of a stove with a high panel
If during the cold season you notice that the heater warms up the car interior well, while the windshield is not blown with warm air, you should conclude that the VAZ-2109 heater dampers are not functioning as they should. In this case, you will also have to carry out adjustment work, but they differ from the procedure described above. In addition, for work, in addition to pliers, you will need an awl, a Phillips screwdriver and wire cutters.
Read the manual below, which describes how to adjust the VAZ-2109 heater dampers:
- In order to gain access to the drive of the closing elements, it is necessary to dismantle the left screen on the instrument panel, which is secured with three screws located on the right foot of the driver;
- After this, move the drive lever to the extreme, use an awl to remove the metal bracket;
- Next, you need to remove the protective plastic braid from the cable, sliding it towards the tip;
- Using wire cutters, carefully cut one turn of the cable, then pinch the remaining turns with pliers and twist tightly so that they are aligned with the other turns;
- Now install the drive cable in the operating position and test the operation of the heating system. If the problem has been resolved, reassemble in reverse order.
This is how the dampers of the VAZ-2109 high panel heater are adjusted in a garage. Despite the fact that the problem with the heater dampers not fitting tightly for the “Nine” and its modifications is quite common, even an inexperienced car enthusiast can solve it - you just need to follow the instructions.