I want to say right away that I will not describe in detail all the repair procedures for this device, but I will give the main ones that VAZ 2107 owners quite often have to perform. I’ll start with the necessary tools that will be needed to repair and disassemble the generator on the “classic”:
- Wrench size 19 - the ring one is more convenient
- Socket heads for 8 and 10
- Extension
- Hammer
Now below I will describe in more detail the disassembly procedure, and I will also analyze the dismantling of each part separately.
Removing the VAZ 2107 generator
First of all, you should disconnect the battery terminals. To make work easier and improve access to the generator, it is better to remove the battery from the car. The further order of work is as follows:
- disconnect the generator connector;
- remove the insulating cover from the terminal, unscrew the fastening nut using a 10mm wrench;
- disconnect the terminal;
- loosen the generator by unscrewing the nut and remove the belt;
- remove the adjusting bar by unscrewing the fastening nut;
- unscrew the lower fastening nut and remove the bushing with the bolt;
- get the generator.
Signs and causes of diode bridge failure
As mentioned above, a generator equipped with a diode bridge is the most important component of a car. If the alternator fails for some reason, the battery will stop charging. And this is the only sign of a faulty diode bridge. Without additional recharge, the battery will work for a few hours at most, after which the car will be completely immobilized. A diode bridge fails when one or more diodes burn out in it. Here are the reasons why this happens:
moisture has entered the generator. Most often, this is condensation that forms on the internal surfaces of the generator in the autumn-spring period, when relatively warm weather alternates with frosts;
The diode has simply exhausted its resource. Like any other part, the diode has its own service life
The manufacturer of 2D219B diodes claims that the service life of their products is about 10 years, but after this period no one guarantees anything to the car owner; The diode burned out due to the negligence of the car owner. This usually happens when a novice car enthusiast tries to “light” his car from another car and at the same time confuses the battery poles
After such an error, the entire diode bridge and part of the generator usually burn out.
Disassembling the VAZ 2107 generator
For a comprehensive repair, you need a puller to remove the bearing from the shaft, a mandrel for pressing and knocking out the bearing in the generator cover.
Sequence of work:
- unscrew the nut securing the pulley and impeller using a socket wrench, holding the rotor with a screwdriver so that it does not turn;
- dismantle the pulley and impeller, remove the key, remove the washers from the shaft;
- unscrew the screws securing the voltage regulator relay and remove it, having first disconnected the wire block;
- remove the regulator relay along with the brush assembly;
- unscrew the nuts and remove the bolts securing the generator cover;
- knock down the front cover by hitting the shaft with a rubber hammer (the cover must be rested against a wooden block);
- remove the spacer sleeve from the shaft;
- check the condition of the bearing in the front cover;
Tip: To check the bearing, you need to rock the inner race of the bearing while holding the cap. If there is play, the bearing must be replaced.
- if necessary, unscrew the bearing mounting nuts;
Attention: if the nuts do not unscrew, you should cut off the ends of the fastening bolts. During assembly, it is necessary to install new bolts and, after tightening the nuts, rivet their ends with a core.
- knock the bearing out of the cover using a drift (mandrel);
- rest the back cover against a pair of wooden blocks and knock out the rotor using a soft metal drift and a hammer;
- check the condition of the rear bearing (similar to the front);
- if necessary, replace the bearing by pulling it from the rotor with a puller;
- unscrew the nuts holding the VAZ 2107 diode bridge and the winding terminals;
- remove the bolts;
- remove the stator winding;
- visually check the condition of the winding;
- if the winding has breaks or has turned black from overheating, replace it;
- remove the generator output nut and insulating washer;
- dismantle the diode bridge;
- remove the capacitor by unscrewing the fastening screw;
- remove the bolt securing the rectifier unit;
- check the rotor and stator windings with a test lamp;
- check the diode bridge of the VAZ 2107 generator for broken diodes.
Connecting devices
The generator is connected in parallel to the battery. The relay regulator monitors the voltage level and controls the excitation current of the generator. Figure 1 shows a connection diagram for a 37.3701 generator with a built-in relay regulator.
Let's list the elements of the scheme:
- Battery.
- Diode "-".
- Additional diode.
- Generator.
- Diode "+".
- Stator winding.
- Regulator.
- Excitation winding.
- Capacitor.
- Mounting block.
- Charge indicator lamp.
- Voltmeter (not available on VAZ-2105).
- Ignition relay.
- Ignition switch.
Assembling a VAZ 2107 generator
Before assembling the generator, it is necessary to clean the parts from contamination. It is better to wash metal parts with gasoline, and wash windings and other complex parts with air from a compressor.
The new bearing is pressed onto the rotor using a mandrel. You can use a head or tube with a diameter that matches the size of the inner ring of the bearing.
Before installing the rear and front covers, it is necessary to check the condition of the bearing seats. They must not be damaged or scratched.
If there are cracks in the cover, they must be replaced with new ones. Bolts and nuts of poor quality must also be replaced.
The sequence of assembling the generator corresponds to the procedure for disassembling it.
After installing and connecting the generator, it is necessary to tighten the belt with the necessary force. If it is overtightened, the bearings will fail; if it is loose, the generator will slip under load and will not produce the required charging current.
Preparing to test the relay for functionality
Checking the relay will not take much time if all the preparatory work is done correctly.
Before you begin diagnosing the device, you need to determine the purpose of the pins of the part being tested. To do this, use the documentation supplied with the device; it contains all the diagrams and operating features, and the characteristics of the device.
There are common cases when the operating diagram is depicted on the relay body itself. Contacts are represented by dots; they are connected by an inductor, the switching elements are straight lines with a dotted line. The power supply pins are shown schematically as a rectangle.
If the relay is built into the circuit, you need to visually inspect the state of the bus and power traces on the board itself. To check the relay with a tester, you can use both digital and analog instruments. No preliminary preparation or setup of testers is required.
The functionality test is carried out in several stages:
- winding;
- normally closed position;
- normally open state.
Then you can proceed directly to diagnosing the relay.
BEARINGS
The generator on a VAZ 2114 car consists of the following main parts:
- A housing consisting of two aluminum covers (front and back);
- Stator (winding located inside the housing);
- A rotor rotating inside the stator;
- Diode bridge;
- Voltage regulator.
The armature (rotor) rotates in two bearings, which are installed: one in the front cover and one pressed onto the rotor. Both bearings are press-fit and therefore are not that easy to replace.
There are usually two main problems with a generator:
- Charging disappears;
- Noise occurs: whistling, grinding or humming.
If there is a whistling noise under the hood, a worn alternator bearing is often to blame. Due to such a malfunction, charging is not lost, but you still shouldn’t drive with noise, since as a result the generator will jam because the rotor will stop rotating.
Before changing or starting repairs, you need to buy the necessary spare parts. And before purchasing, you need to find out what bearings are on the VAZ 2114 generator. A bearing of brand 180202 (a foreign analogue of 6202-2RS) is installed on the rear of the rotor, and 180302 (an analogue of 6302-2RS) is installed on the front cover. The cost of Russian parts is low - in the range of 50-80 rubles per piece, imported spare parts are noticeably more expensive - from 200-250 rubles. Bearings are often sold as a set, that is, in pairs. Imported analogues are of much higher quality, so when choosing parts it is better to buy brand 6202-2RS and 6302-2RS.
Bearing 6302-2RS
Causes of malfunction
If the voltage generator does not work, first you need to understand the main reasons. As a rule, the need to diagnose a malfunction first arises if the device does not charge the battery or the so-called tablet does not work.
So, for what reasons the device does not work:
- Brushes. In practice, brushes are one of the main problems on a VAZ 2107 carburetor or injector engine. Brushes are essentially consumables. In fact, from time to time a malfunction in the form of worn brushes forces car owners to resort to disassembly, modification or replacement. Worn brushes will prevent you from using your car.
- The windings have burned out.
- Problems with the housing of the voltage generator on the VAZ 2107 injector or carburetor. As a rule, we are talking about mechanical damage.
- The need to modify, disassemble and replace the voltage generator on a VAZ 2107 injector or carburetor arises due to bearing wear. If the bearings squeak or make noise, they need to be replaced (video author - Avtoelektika HF).
About installing an additional diode
Installing an additional diode is quite rare. Why is this being done? In order to slightly increase the voltage of the on-board network. The need for this increase arose due to new laws. As you know, in 2015, changes were made to the traffic rules, forcing drivers to constantly drive with their running lights on. And owners of classic VAZ models are forced to constantly drive with their low beams on. In such a situation, both battery charging and on-board voltage drop significantly. To somehow solve this problem, craftsmen install additional diodes, which are located between the voltage regulator terminals and the common output wires for the additional diode, as shown in the figure below.
An additional diode is placed between the terminals of the voltage regulator (number 1) and the common wire for additional diodes (number 2)
For installation, KD202D diodes are usually used, which can be found in any radio parts store.
The KD202D diode is very popular among owners of “Sevens”
If the above diode is not available, you can choose any other one. The main thing is that the direct forward current is at least 5 amperes, and the maximum permissible reverse voltage is not lower than 20 volts.
So, in order to change the diode bridge on a VAZ 2107, you do not need to go to the nearest service center and pay a mechanic 800 rubles. Everything can be done on your own, and in a fairly short time. To remove and disassemble the generator, 20 minutes is enough for an experienced car enthusiast. It will take a beginner more time, but in the end he will cope with the task. All you need to do is follow the recommendations given above exactly.
