Chassis front and rear suspension VAZ 2110 2111 2112 removal of the lever and extension of the front suspension VAZ 2110 2111 2112


Replacing silent blocks on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands

Over time, under the influence of loads and the influence of an aggressive external environment, they become unusable and require replacement. Let's look at how to replace silent blocks on a VAZ-2110 car on your own, without contacting a car service.

Where are the silent blocks located on the VAZ-2110

The main task of silent blocks is to soften shock loads that are transmitted to the car body from the suspension, engine or gearbox.

In a VAZ-2110 car, such hinges are installed in:

  • elastic shock absorber mounting points;
  • jet rod fastening elements;
  • upper arms (popularly called “sabers”);
  • elements of fastening of the stabilizer cross member;
  • support beams for mounting the engine and gearbox;
  • rear suspension rod elements.

Most often, the front suspension silent blocks and stretch bands (popularly called “daisies”) require replacement, since they experience the greatest loads here.

Signs of wear

During operation, silent compounds are exposed to reagents used on winter roads, dirt and large temperature changes. The rubber-metal hinge loses its elasticity over time, cracks and wears out.

Theoretically, the resource of silent blocks is 100,000 kilometers. However, they have to be changed (they cannot be repaired) much more often, every 50,000 kilometers.

How can you open a VAZ-2110 without a key?

Some of the signs that silent blocks need to be replaced are:

  • the appearance of extraneous creaks and knocks in the area of ​​the vehicle’s chassis;
  • play of levers and wheels;
  • uneven tire wear;
  • loss of stability of the car on the road, difficulties in controlling it (the car seems to become “wobbly”);
  • Upon visual inspection of silent blocks cleared of dirt, cracks and damage to the rubber are detected.

An indirect sign is considered to be a violation of the camber/toe of the car's wheels, if it is known that it was previously adjusted.

Polyurethane or rubber, which is better?

It is better to replace standard rubber bushings with polyurethane ones, then they will last much longer. Polyurethane hinges improve the car's behavior on the track and reduce unwanted deformations in the connections of suspension elements.

Polyurethane hinges are better than rubber ones at absorbing suspension shocks, vibrations and reducing noise when the car is moving. Their only drawback is their relatively high cost, but the increased service life of the products offsets this difference in price.

Replacing silent blocks

The general principles for replacing rubber-metal hinges are the same for all elements. First of all, they need to be freed from all fastenings. If it is possible to remove the part with the silent block, then replacing them will be much more convenient.

Then you need to press out the silent itself. This is often quite difficult to do. It is better to press out and install new silent blocks using a special squeezing device.

If there is none, then the easiest way is to cut off one of the hinge shoulders and knock out its remains with a drift. It’s time to use the old “old-fashioned” method - burn out the rubber element.

Before installation, be sure to lubricate the surface of the part with liquid soap or soap solution; you can chamfer one of the collars.

Do I need to do a wheel alignment after this?

Of course, after replacing the vehicle's engine or gearbox mounts, after repairing a non-adjustable rear axle (for example, a torsion beam), or replacing stabilizer struts, such wheel adjustment will not be necessary. But if the hinges of the front axle, adjustable steering rack or rear rack have been replaced, then such an adjustment is necessary, since previous adjustments were made taking into account the wear of the silent blocks.

What are the consequences of untimely replacement of these hinges? If these joints wear out too much, the car loses its controllability: it is pulled off the road at speed or “thrown” from side to side. This is fraught with emergency situations. Over time, the hinge seats may collapse, which will require the replacement of more expensive parts.

Polyurethane silent blocks, what is the advantage

The service life of the hinge is influenced by a number of other circumstances. For example, the rubber used in the silent block design is very badly affected by petroleum products and chemicals used to treat the road surface in winter. Temperature changes also have an extremely negative effect on the part - in the summer the rubber softens, and in the winter it begins to freeze and becomes too hard. Under conditions of severe mechanical loads, rubber begins to wear out, “age”, lose elasticity, delaminate, and fail.

Silent blocks with elastic elements made of polyurethane performed much better under equal conditions.

Polyurethane hinges have much better performance characteristics than their counterparts with rubber inserts. They are less destroyed by chemicals, retain elasticity regardless of the ambient temperature, and polyurethane is practically unaffected by petroleum waste. Of course, a polyurethane silent block will last much longer than a rubber one. However, like any part, over time it requires replacement because it begins to age and delaminate.

Replacing lower arm joints

Replacing the lower front suspension arm on VAZ 2107 cars.
When you finish with the upper one, you can proceed to the lower one. His fastening is done a little differently. And the replacement of VAZ-2106 silent blocks is carried out without removing the suspension arm. You just need to unscrew the nut, which, by the way, needs to be replaced with a new one during assembly. And remove the washer. That's all, now use the hollow bolt of the puller to press out the hinge. The second one is extracted using the same exact technology.

Installation of new hinges is done by pressing. To do this, a silent block is inserted into the hole by hand. Then, using a stand, carefully strike with a hammer. You don’t need to hit with all your might, a sharp but weak blow is enough. But this is if there is no puller, and if there is one, then the task is simplified many times - place it on the hinge and slowly, avoiding distortions, screw in the bolt. After pressing, check that there is no gap. When finished, screw in a new nut, not forgetting the washer. That's all, the replacement of the VAZ-2106 silent blocks is completed, you can put the upper arm in place.

The silent block is an important part of the suspension, which ensures the mobility of the elements relative to each other, and also eliminates friction from metal parts. If so, it needs to be changed. On all VAZ classic models (2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106 and 2107), the silent blocks of the front levers change in the same way. The procedure for replacing the silent block of the VAZ upper arm is as follows: 1. Jack up the car and remove the front wheel.2. Unscrew the nut on the axis of the upper arm (you need a 24mm wrench).

3. Using the same 24mm wrench, unscrew the nut on the upper ball joint, then use a puller to unpress the support pin (instead of a puller, you can use two 13mm wrenches to unscrew the support).

4. Tighten the steering tip nut and unpress it.

5. Unscrew the nut of the upper arm axle, and then remove the axle. On VAZ 2104, 2105 or 2107 cars, this will also require unscrewing the vertically located bolt that secures the bumper.

6. Holding the lever in a vice, press out and replace the silent blocks of the upper lever using a special tool.

7. Lubricate the axis of the upper lever, then put the lever in place. Do not tighten the axle nut completely.

8. Assemble the support in the reverse order, tighten the wheel, lower the car, and then tighten the axle nut completely. After this, you can begin replacing the silent block of the lower arm: 1. Unscrew the nuts of the lower arm axle (you need a 22mm wrench).

2. Using a puller, squeeze out the silent block

Please note that the tie rod end may need to be removed to install the puller. 3

Remove the silent block, lubricate the axle with oil, and then insert a new silent block

3. Remove the silent block, lubricate the axle with oil, and then insert a new silent block.

4

Insert a stop bracket between the arm and the nut that secures the lower arm axle to the beam. 5. Press in the silent block, then install and pin the steering ends.

6. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Car silent blocks require monitoring and timely replacement. The service life of the silent block is up to 100,000 km

mileage, but Russian conditions dictate their own rules, it has to be done
every 50,000 km
.

Broken silent blocks of the front suspension arms on VAZ-2110 vehicles are indicated by a characteristic knocking or grinding sound that is heard when the car is moving. The car not only begins to rattle, but also loses stability on the road and becomes more difficult to control. It happens that when a car undergoes a wheel alignment, it is discovered that the silent blocks are faulty.

It is quite possible to change the silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. Of course, you will have to get dirty and spend several hours of your time to repair the car. The same procedure for replacing a set of silent blocks at a service station will cost 1100-1400 rubles

. You can decide whether to take on the work yourself or entrust it to others after viewing this photo report.

It is worth noting that the photo instructions are based on the experience of car enthusiasts and contain tips for drivers with a minimum set of necessary tools. In the repair instructions you can find another solution to this problem.

The following components are also required:

  • Silent block remover for removing the upper control arm from the car;
  • Steering end remover, without which it is impossible to unpress the outer steering ends

Most likely, if you decide that you can replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2107 yourself, then you have the rest of the tools. These should be elements such as:

  • Jack;
  • Socket and open-end wrenches 22;
  • Socket and socket wrenches 13;
  • Thin, well-sharpened chisel;
  • Hammer;
  • Mount.

All of the above has most likely convinced you that silent blocks are a very important component of the car. Only one conclusion follows from this - you should not skimp on buying high-quality branded silent blocks. You can also use polyurethane components, but the cost may leave you a little shocked.

So, after all the tools and parts for replacement are prepared, you should start with a process such as replacing the front silent blocks.

  1. Loosen the wheel bolts and lift the required wheel using a jack. After this, immediately remove it and loosen the nut on the axis of the upper arm using a 24mm wrench. You can immediately unscrew the steering tip nut and unpress it.
  2. At the next stage, unscrew the upper ball joint nut using a 24mm wrench. Using a puller, unpress the support pin from the bipod. If there is no puller, simply unscrew the support from the lever using several 13mm wrenches.
  3. Unscrew the upper arm eye nut and remove it. It is noteworthy that replacing silent blocks involves unscrewing the vertical bolt securing the bumper.
  4. The next step is to drag the lever to the workbench and clamp it in a vice. Now you should press out the silent blocks with a previously purchased device. Next comes the installation of the front arm silent blocks. Next, install the lever in place, having previously processed the axis of the upper lever. For this you can use nigrol, lithol, motor oil. It is not recommended to tighten the axle nut completely. Tightening is carried out with the vehicle completely lowered.
  5. Secure the support, put on and secure the wheel, and lower the car from the jack.

Next, prepare a set of silent blocks to carry out such a process as replacing the silent blocks of the rear levers. First of all, you should remove the silent blocks of the rear control arms from the VAZ 2107.

  1. Remove the wheel from the car;
  2. Unscrew the lever axle nuts on both sides using a 22mm wrench and remove the thrust washers.
  3. Screw the complete puller bolt onto the lower arm axle. Tighten the nut while holding the bolt from turning. The puller glass, at the same time, presses on the lower lever, pressing it from the silent block.
  4. The next step is to remove the silent block from the lower arm.
  5. On the opposite side of the rear lever axis, the silent block is pressed out in the same way.

Next, the rear silent blocks are directly replaced:

  1. The new silent block must be centered in the hole of the lower arm;
  2. To prevent the lower arm of the silent block from moving relative to the axle during pressing, a thrust washer should be placed on the axle on the opposite side and the old self-locking nut should be screwed in.
  3. Install the puller onto the lower arm axle and tighten the nut. The puller glass should press on the silent block flange. If you didn’t know how to press in a silent block, then this is how it’s done. It is worth noting that when pressing in, a glass of smaller diameter must be installed on the silent block remover than when pressing out.
  4. Release the puller by unscrewing the screw. Next, install the thrust washer on the axle and tighten the new nut without tightening it.
  5. In the same way, press in the silent block on the opposite side of the lower arm and screw in a new nut, installing a washer.
  6. Finally tighten the nuts on the lower control arm after installing the vehicle on the wheels.

In general, this process is not particularly simple, but if you follow the step-by-step instructions, it will be easy to do, just like repairing shock absorbers yourself. The subframe silent blocks are also replaced in a similar manner. Don't forget to reinstall the tie rod ends and then tighten them. The next step is to tighten the lower and upper arm nuts after the machine is completely lowered to the ground.

Replacing the suspension arm

Front suspension design for VAZ 2110

Replacing the suspension arm on a VAZ 2110 is necessary when cracks, chips, wear and tear of rubber are detected. To do this, you need to place the car on a flat surface (it should have its wheels on the ground), and place shoes under the rear wheels. Loosen the bolts of the front wheels, and only now place the front of the car on supports. Remove the wheels and then the crankcase protection of your VAZ 2110.

When unscrewing the nuts holding the suspension arm, and then the ball joint, you should hold the bolts from turning on the reverse side. As you remove the washers from the guy wire, count them and mark which one comes next. When installing a new lever, they must be placed in the same order. Typically, a complete replacement of the lever is carried out if the hinges are damaged. Before tightening all connections, it is better to lower the VAZ 2110 to the ground.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=5oZihfXdmRE

Hi all! It's time for me to replace the front control arm bushings. When I was about to do this, I was sweating just at the thought. They are HEALTHY! How to press them in. It was decided this way: if there is a strong problem, then I will take the beam to a service station and let them press it there. Got it. To remove the beam, I placed the car in a pit. I unscrewed the nuts from the levers (using a two-meter pipe and “some kind of mother”) and all the fastenings to the body. Stripped off.

Set of tools: - sharp knife; - hammer; - Silicone Grease; — soap (without rope); - a 12 pin, about 20 cm long, with nuts; - two wrenches; — corner No. 45 with a hole along the hairpin; — front washer from the same silent; - two-inch coupling (or a piece of suitable pipe).

Pressing out old rubber bands We secure the beam in a good vice.

After thoroughly spraying with silicone, we cut off the extra “ears” from the silent tape. Without silicone it is very difficult to cut rubber, there is a lot of friction.

Having cut off the “ears,” we protrude the rubber from the metal and spray more silicone there. After that, with a couple of blows of the hammer, everything pops out with a whistle.

Installing a new silent Installation requires: a stud, nuts, an angle and a washer. We smear everything that rubs with soaked soap.

Tighten the nuts on the stud. The silent begins to sink into the beam.

Let's stop here for a moment. When twisting, the silent every now and then tries to slide away from the axis of the hole to the side. The rubber band starts to go in on one side, but the other doesn’t go in at all. It's warped, in short. The corner helped a lot here (see photo). When a distortion is detected (in the initial phase), press the corner in the direction opposite to the distortion. Editing rules

So the whole skirt went into the beam.

The corner is already in the way for further pressing. We disassemble the entire coupler and insert the coupling like this:

Let's move on. Result:

There you go! One silencer takes 15-20 minutes with a smoke break.

Tips for choosing a mechanism, repair kit

Long-term operation of the mechanism after restoration or repair depends not only on the correctness of the work, but also on the quality of manufacture of the mechanism or repair kit.

If you purchase cheap products, it is likely that in the near future problems with the mechanism will arise again; the repair work performed will simply be a waste of time and money.

Therefore, the choice of mechanism or repair kit should be approached responsibly.

When replacing a steering mechanism, most car enthusiasts advise purchasing either a mechanism made by the manufacturer or a mechanism produced by SS 20, a company that produces components for domestic cars.

But car enthusiasts do not favor the mechanism produced by Fenox; very often they come across defective ones or quickly fail.

But when purchasing a new mechanism, you should inquire about the quality certificate and see if the packaging has marks from the quality control department.

Suspicious steering mechanisms, without any marks, even if it’s not worth taking the cheaper ones, as a rule, they immediately start knocking.

The same applies to restoration kits; often, a cheap repair kit can restore the functionality of a mechanism only for a short time.

Preparation for work on replacing silent blocks

Rear suspension of the VAZ 2110 do-it-yourself tuning and repair (photo)

To press in new silent blocks you will need a special puller.

Before you begin the process of replacing suspension parts with your own hands, you need to prepare a place and a set of tools. A garage with a spacious inspection pit is ideal as a place. As for tools, to replace you will need:

  1. Set of wrenches and sockets with ratchet.
  2. Special puller for pressing out silent blocks. You can either buy this specific tool or ask your garage mechanic friends to borrow it while you work.
  3. VD-40 or analogues.
  4. Soap solution.

The necessary puller is quite easy to make from a pipe of a suitable size, a long bolt and a washer.

If you cannot get a puller, you can use available equipment. This can be done by a tube of suitable diameter with washers and a vice.

Replacement process

If replacing rubber suspension parts is new to the car owner, it may immediately seem like a very time-consuming and complicated procedure. Often, at the inspection stage, inexperienced VAZ-2110 owners decide that they won’t be able to do anything on their own. In fact, the replacement process is quite simple. If you do this once, changing any silent blocks in the future will be easy and simple.

The only problem may be pressing the new silent block into place, since the new parts may be poorly processed or too rigid. This is especially true for parts made of polyurethane.


Rubber silent block.


Polyurethane silent blocks.

Replacement occurs according to the following algorithm:

  1. First you need to raise the front wheel using a jack.
    It is advisable to use a hydraulic jack, and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels on both sides. It is advisable to duplicate the jack with a support. This way the car will definitely not jump off and crush its owner. We remove the wheel.
  2. Next you need to unscrew and remove the wheel.
  3. At this moment, you can also check the silent blocks that are located in the levers. If they are loose, then you need to replace them too.
  4. The front support is knocked out.
    Before doing this, unscrew the nut that holds it in place. The blow should be accurate, but not strong. Unscrew the saber nut.
  5. After this, you can remove the upper arm.
    To do this you need to unscrew the bolt. Having removed the saber, we get free access to the silent block itself.
  6. After these procedures, you can knock out the silent blocks themselves.
    A chisel and hammer are used for this. As a rule, they come out easily, but in rare cases you need to use WD-40. It will be easier to knock out the parts if you trim them.
  7. Now you need to install the new part.
    To do this you will need a pressing tool. In order for this process to go smoothly, it is recommended to clean the socket from rust and lubricate it and the part with a soapy solution. Before pressing, generously lubricate the parts with soapy water.

Examination

The main thing is not to confuse which side you need to press in the silent block!

After the work is completed, there should be no play, otherwise the suspension will cause many problems in the future. Then everything is put together in reverse order.

The process of replacing silent blocks yourself can be mastered within a few hours. In the future, this will save the VAZ-2110 owner a lot of money.

Tools, accessories, consumables, pro tips

The work itself of replacing silent blocks is not difficult, but special tools may be needed to press out the hinges.

In total for work you will need:

  • actually, new silent blocks
  • spanners and open-end wrenches of the required size (heads and ratchet)
  • puller for silent block
  • lubricant (soap solution)
  • jack
  • vice
  • hammer, small chisel.

The hinge fits very tightly into place, and to dismantle it, most likely, you will need a special puller. A necessary condition for high-quality replacement of hinges is their correct selection. Before you go to the store, you need to find out which silent blocks are most often installed on the BA2110, their serial number, size parameters, etc. Let us repeat, the hinge fits very tightly, and a discrepancy in size of just a few millimeters will result in the new silent block simply not being pressed in.

For this work, special pullers are used, with the help of which it is easy to remove the old part and press in the new one. Sometimes it happens that to replace the silent block you have to remove a suspension element, for example, a lever. In this case, the puller can be successfully replaced with a conventional bench vice. True, in this case it will be quite difficult to remove the silent block. Then you can simply burn it out with a blowtorch or over an open fire. Sometimes craftsmen cope with it using a sledgehammer and a metal punch.

Before installing a new part in place, it must be lubricated with soap or a soap solution. This will make installation very easy. You cannot use lubricants made from petroleum products - grease, litom, oil, etc., as they have a negative effect on the rubber. This does not apply to polyurethane hinges, which are practically unaffected by petroleum products. To make installation even easier, a small chamfer can be removed from the rubber surface of the part from the end. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to cut off too much.

Reasons for replacement and self-installation of VAZ 2110 silent blocks

Experienced car owners, of course, know that it is the silent blocks on the VAZ 2110 that affect the wheel alignment angles. And for new car enthusiasts, this may be news, but it encourages the idea that the condition of these parts needs to be monitored.

Set of silent blocks and bushings. Article 17-21-004

When should you change?

Usually, the driver will probably guess that the silent block has failed. If a replacement is needed, discomfort while driving will tell you about it. You can feel distinct “iron” impacts and noises in the suspension. But that's not all.

If urgent measures are not taken, the VAZ 2110’s fastenings and connections will break and play will appear. The wheel alignment angles will also suffer, which obviously will not lead to any good.

Worn silent block

There are some symptoms to look out for that these rubber parts are worn out:

  • When driving, the tires on the wheels squeak. Not necessarily much. There shouldn't even be a slight squeak;
  • A knocking sound is heard in the wheel area. The point here is the poor rotation of the collapsing silent blocks;
  • As the silent block wears out, it first becomes covered with cracks and then completely falls apart. Here only the deaf can no longer hear the knocks.

You can find out the overall and geometric dimensions of the VAZ 2110 body in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/kuzov/geometricheskie-razmery-kuzova.html

DIY replacement

Even in an ordinary garage, high-quality replacement of silent blocks is possible. To do this, you only need to have a puller, which you can make yourself, having a simple drawing. Or you can borrow it from your motorist friends.

Silent block remover

Such a device will become an assistant when removing and then further installing new silent blocks. It consists of two tubes and washers. The length of the puller legs is about 20 cm.

Some, having adapted, make do with a mandrel.

Front suspension

For the front suspension, silent blocks are provided: front beam, upper, lower arm.

Replacement for parts of the front upper arm of the VAZ 2110 occurs as follows:

  1. You need to jack up and secure the car;
  2. Remove the front wheel;
  3. Unscrew and knock out the support. To do this, hit the bipod with a hammer, turning the wheel out;
  4. Once the support is knocked out, it becomes possible to remove the upper front control arm. To do this, unscrew a long bolt from the side. At the same time they look at the axial play. If it is palpable, replacement may be warranted;
  5. Removing the silent tape is quite simple using a chisel and a hammer. The main thing is to accurately calculate the impact in order to avoid damage to other parts. Sometimes very “stubborn” silent blocks have to be drilled out and only then knocked out;
  6. You can press in a new silent block by pressing it into the socket using a smaller bushing until it sits securely there.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower control arms of a VAZ 2110 is a more difficult task; to complete it, you will need:

  1. Remove the stabilizer so that the lever can be moved;
  2. Unscrew the nuts holding the silents;
  3. Remove the rubber bushings (same as in the case of the upper arm);
  4. Press in new ones, and then be sure to fix them in the loaded state of the VAZ 2110.

You can read more about the front beam malfunctions in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/perednyaya-balka.html

Signs of trouble

It is quite easy to determine that silent blocks are the cause of a malfunctioning front suspension. Signs of malfunction of these parts are as follows:

  • From under the front wheels of the VAZ 2110 you can hear an unnatural squeak of rubber, which differs from the noise made by the wheels.
  • A knocking sound appears in the front of the car. This occurs due to wear of the rubber-metal hinges, which stop sliding, resulting in noise.
  • The fault can also be determined by visual inspection - cracks, tears and other defects appear on the rubber.
  • If these signs appear, it is necessary to remove the hinges from the rear and front arms and inspect them for damage. Metal rubber-metal hinges cannot be repaired, so replacement of new parts is required.

Why do the rear beam silent blocks fail?

During operation, the rubber part peels off from the metal bushing.

The rubber of the parts itself, which is cast with metal bushings, must withstand enormous loads, but time destroys the rubber.

In addition, if the parts are installed skewed, or the quality of the ohms turns out to be low, which often happens, then the silent blocks can quickly fail. In addition, the following factors affect the durability of parts:

  1. The main factor that affects the service life of obviously high-quality silent blocks is driving style. If you do not pay attention to holes and other irregularities, then they will be the first to suffer in the suspension.
  2. Wheel alignment also affects the life of the hinges. If this is not done periodically, the wheel alignment angles will change, which will lead to incorrect operation of the suspension.
  3. Rubber is not very durable, especially if oil and other technical liquids get on its surface. In these cases, the surface of the silent compounds becomes covered with cracks, which can lead to ruptures.

In order to avoid problems and expensive suspension repairs, it is recommended to inspect the condition of the silent blocks at least once every six months. This will help to identify and eliminate problems in a timely manner.

What to consider when replacing

The silent blocks of the VAZ-2108 and VAZ-2110 visually seem exactly the same, but in fact their mounting dimensions are different.

There are several secrets and recommendations, taking into account which you can achieve more durable operation of the rear suspension hinges:

  1. You should not try to install silent blocks from the “nine” on a VAZ-2110. Although they are almost identical in appearance, the “nine” spare part is a couple of millimeters smaller. Therefore, setting this element to “ten” is unacceptable. But the opposite can be done by applying a little more effort when pressing.
  2. Scheduled replacement of rubber suspension joints should be carried out no less than after 40–50,000 km.
  3. If one silent block fails, it is better to change the others that are located next to it. This will save the owner from repeated repairs, the need for which may arise after several thousand km.

High-quality repair of the rear suspension on a VAZ-2110 depends on the skills of the car owner. At the same time, it is quite simple. It is enough to do it yourself once to acquire the necessary skills. In order for everything to work out right the first time, it is recommended to involve more experienced colleagues in the work for the first time.

Repairing the suspension yourself, or contacting a specialized service station is everyone’s personal choice. If you decide to entrust the work to specialists, it is better to control the entire process yourself, so that next time you can do everything yourself.

Choosing which ones to buy

It is impossible to say unequivocally which front struts are best to choose for the VAZ 2110. Some choose factory ones because they are not rigid enough for them, others prefer analogues for their softer and more comfortable behavior.

Some people even want to install a sports version of the struts on their “top ten”, since they are the stiffest and the springs are the thickest.


Sports

Focus on what you want to get out of driving. But from the point of view of manufacturers, Samara CC20 devices have proven themselves to be excellent. If necessary, you can figure out how to pump up such racks.

The choice is between oil and gas (gas-oil, actually). The former are more affordable from a financial point of view, but they do not have such a wide temperature range, which is why the shock absorbers become stiffer in winter.

Gas analogues have a more complex design, a high price, but an excellent “tenacity” indicator.

Among the manufacturers, in addition to CC20, the following manufacturing companies can be distinguished:

  • KONI
  • Sachs
  • Kayaba
  • Monroe
  • Brillstein.

All of them have approximately the same devices, so there should be no problems with selecting suitable parts.

How to replace the silent blocks of the lower control arms on a VAZ 2110 (2112) with your own hands?

For the softness and comfort of driving a car, not only properly inflated wheels or comfortable seats are responsible, the serviceability of the suspension is important, the parts of which must work as a single whole. A disruption in the operation of at least one of the above components will entail a general imbalance and disruption of ride comfort as a whole. One of the most important elements of a car’s suspension is rubber and rubber-metal seals, they are called silent blocks. Thanks to these seemingly inconspicuous and unnecessary rubber or polyurethane rollers, the suspension parts are connected. While the connection is rigid, softness between the parts is maintained, which allows the motorist to drive quietly and comfortably, “without knocking or rattling iron.”

On the pages of VAZ Repair we have already talked about how to replace silent blocks in the article: Replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2109, this time you will learn how to replace silent blocks on lower control arms on a VAZ 2110 at home.

A few words about the signs of silent block failure If you notice:

  • Creaking of rubber when driving over uneven surfaces;
  • Knocking while driving over uneven surfaces;
  • Backlash in connections when checking the chassis;
  • Deterioration or cracks in silent blocks;
  • Uneven tire wear disrupts wheel alignment.

It is necessary to take immediate action and replace faulty silent blocks.

To work you will need:

New lower control arm silent blocks - rubber or polyurethane; Set of keys, hammer; Soap solution; Liquid WD-40; Lift or inspection hole;

How to know when it's time to change

There are several signs that the silent blocks have become unusable.

  • The first sign is a characteristic knocking or grinding noise that is heard when the car is moving and which intensifies significantly when the road is uneven.
  • The second sign is that if one or more silent blocks are broken, then the car becomes much more difficult to control, especially when turning.
  • Even if none of the above is observed, a problem with silent blocks can still emerge, for example, at the moment when the car owner arrives at a car service center and decides to adjust the wheel alignment. It is at this moment that service employees can tell him unpleasant news.

Replacing silent blocks "tens"

The replacement of VAZ 2110 silent blocks can be entrusted to specialists by contacting a car maintenance station. Or replace it yourself. In order to assess your strengths and capabilities, it is recommended to read this article to the end and watch video reports on replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2110. The videos can be easily found on specialized websites on the Internet.

Let's consider the steps of replacing silent blocks of the front suspension with your own hands. It is better to entrust the replacement of silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 in the rear beam to car repair specialists. It is very difficult to carry out a high-quality replacement on your own. To replace the front silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 you will need the following tools and accessories:

  • socket and ring wrenches for 17, 19 and 24;
  • hammer;
  • vice;
  • device for pressing silent blocks;
  • chisel;
  • metal brush;
  • WD-40 product.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2110 uses:

  • Rear front lever silent block – 2 pcs.;
  • silent blocks for fastening the guy wires – 4 pcs.

The latter consist of two parts: internal and external. It is better to replace the silent blocks of the VAZ 2110 in an inspection pit or overpass. It's more convenient and safer.

To make it easier to remove the lever when replacing silent blocks, it is necessary to remove the mudguard. If the engine compartment is protected, then remove the engine protection. To make it easier to unscrew threaded connections, you should first spray them with WD-40. If it is not available, you can use regular brake fluid. Generously lubricate the mounting points of the bolts and nuts and wait a few minutes. The liquid will eat away the rust and help prevent the threads on the bolts from being stripped.

Let's consider the procedure for replacing the front silent blocks of a VAZ 2110:

  1. Unscrew the ball joint. Separate it with the lever.
  2. Unscrew the nut that holds the extension.
  3. Using two 17mm wrenches, unscrew the bolt securing the stabilizer link.
  4. Carefully knock out the fastening bolt. It is better to do this with a soft metal hammer or, using a wooden spacer, knock it out with a regular hammer.
  5. We release the mounting of the lever on the body. To do this, you need a key for 19.
  6. We take out the fastening bolt. If he doesn't go, you should knock him out.
  7. For convenience, it is recommended to remove the lever along with the stretcher. To do this, unscrew the crab that attaches the guy to the car body.
  8. The lever is removed, we proceed to replacing the silent blocks. First we change the silent blocks of the extension. We dismantle them using a chisel, knocking them off the lever. We clean the place where the silent block is attached from rust. Using a vice, we press in new silent blocks one by one on each side. Using a vice it is not always possible to completely seat the silent block. You can “finish off” it with 2-3 precise blows of a hammer or sledgehammer.
  9. The next step is to replace the rear silent block of the front lever. If it is broken, then removing it will not be difficult. It is enough to pull out the metal sleeve and remove the rubber with a screwdriver or chisel. Otherwise, you will have to use a device for pressing out silent blocks. If it is not there, then you can use the old-fashioned method and burn out the rubber using fire. Then clean the eyes from dirt and rust. It is better to press silent blocks using a special device. Before doing this, you should generously moisten the silent block and the eyelet with soapy water. This will make the pressing process easier.
  10. After replacing all the silent blocks, we assemble the front suspension parts in the reverse order. Full tightening of threaded connections should only be carried out with the vehicle mounted on the wheels.

When purchasing silent blocks, you should pay attention to the manufacturer. It is recommended to use two brands. These are “Balakovo” and “SEVI”

The price of these spare parts is practically the same. The quality of these silent blocks is quite high

These are "Balakovo" and "SEVI". The price of these spare parts is practically the same. The quality of these silent blocks is quite high.

The process of replacing silent blocks is not easy. The cost of this service is quite high, but by following the instructions exactly, you can replace the silent blocks yourself and save a lot of money.

Important points

Unscrewing nuts with a 24 mm spanner can be a very difficult task. To move such a nut out of place, as a rule, enormous force is required. And not only that, each next revolution will also require considerable effort. Therefore, it is best to use a long tube mounted on a spanner as a lever.

To make the nuts even easier to unscrew, you can pour plenty of oil on them and wait 10 minutes.

The silent blocks should be pressed in with a hammer blow (or a sledgehammer blow) only after placing the lever on a flat metal surface. In this case, the blow must be very accurate; at the slightest misalignment of the hammer, there is a risk of damage to the silent block.

In order to avoid the above damage, it makes sense to press the silent block into the extension using a vice. A vice will be needed in any case, since new blocks rarely fit completely into the eye after one blow. They almost always need to be “added.”

In order for the new silent block to fit into the eye as deeply as possible, it should be lubricated. An ordinary dishwashing gel, liquid soap or plain soapy water is suitable as a lubricant.

As can be seen from this article, it is quite possible to replace silent blocks yourself, the main thing is to be careful when pressing them. If the car owner is not confident in the strength and accuracy of the blow, there is no point in taking risks with a hammer; it is better to gradually press the block into the eye with a vice, having previously lubricated it

If this operation also causes difficulties, then there is only one way out: going to a car service center for the help of qualified auto mechanics.

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