How to change a turn signal light bulb. Replacing a car's turn signal. How to replace a turn signal on a car. Step-by-step instruction.

If your headlight or turn signal bulb has burned out, you can easily replace it yourself. The fact is that lighting fixtures in modern cars are designed in such a way that replacing a light bulb is done in literally two or three movements. Of course, the replacement procedure may depend on the specific make and model of the car, but in general, this is how you should proceed.

remember this

Please note that the glass of halogen light bulbs should not be touched with your hands - otherwise they will quickly fail (this can happen almost immediately after turning on the light bulb, the reason is fingerprints left behind). If you need to take the light bulb by the glass part, use a piece of paper, polyethylene or clean cloth for this.

Open the hood and see how you can get to the back of the lighting fixture with your hand from the engine compartment (Fig. 7.4)

Then remove the socket with the light bulb (usually, you need to squeeze the antennae of the socket with your fingers or simply turn the socket in a certain direction). To remove the light bulb from the socket, you do not need to twist it - usually it is removed with a slight movement of your fingers. Then insert the light bulb into the socket, and the socket in its original place, and then check the operation of the lighting device.

1Replacing the turn signal bulb

Turn signals are important elements in any car (in principle, there are no unimportant parts in this mechanism, as in any other). After all, it is thanks to them that the driver shows other road users his maneuvers - in this case we are talking about turning.

Unfortunately, in modern cars it is not so rare for the turn signal bulbs to burn out, which leads to the absence of a signal sign during the next maneuver on the roadway. In this case, replacing such a part becomes mandatory, and the sooner you do this, the safer you will move on the road and become safer for other road users.

First, let's look at how to replace the light bulb in the turn signal of the front headlight unit. The diagram of this process is simple, so it won’t be difficult to handle this process yourself:

First, the driver must turn off the ignition. Any process that the driver wants to start in the car should begin with this procedure.
Open the hood. It is best to fix it so that further actions carried out in the repair process are completely safe for the driver or the person who will be replacing that light bulb.
The next step is to find the turn signal bulb socket under the hood, grab it and immediately turn it counterclockwise to remove it. It should be noted that you need to remove the socket together with the light bulb, therefore, you need to take them out carefully and slowly.
In this case, there is no need to disconnect the contacts - this is an important point in the process under consideration.
It is clear that you will have to acquire a light bulb in advance, or first take the lamp out from under the hood, go to the store with it and buy a similar one, but a working one and a new one.
Now it's time to insert a new light bulb in place of the burnt one. We also do this carefully, insert it into the recess for the turn signal bulb and scroll it clockwise, screwing it in a spiral.

This is how, in a few movements, you can quickly remove a burnt paw and exchange it for a new one.

Replacing lamps in the headlight (low and high beam lamps, front dimensions, turn indicator)

Contents: Arrangement of lamps in the headlight Replacing the low and high beam lamps Replacing the turn signal lamp Replacing the side light lamp Replacement video Experience of car owners, lamp burnout, etc.

Note: See also Applicable lamps and Article numbers of applicable lamps

The procedure for replacing the right and left headlight bulbs is the same.

Location of lamps in the headlight: 1 – turn signal lamp; 2 – headlight adjustment mechanism; 3 – screw for adjusting headlights vertically; 4 – headlight lamp (low, high); 5 – side light lamp; 6 – horizontal headlight adjustment knob

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery.

Replacing the head lamp (low and high beam)

Headlight bulb H4 - halogen, double-filament.

Turn the plastic cover, press the lock and remove it (in the photo, for clarity, the headlight is pulled out of the cavity in the body)

After releasing the lock, remove the wiring block from the lamp.

Lift the edge of the rubber sealing boot and remove it from the headlight.

By pressing the spring clamp of the lamp, disengage it from the reflector

Lower the latch

And remove the headlight bulb (low and high beam) from the headlight housing

Insert the new lamp, secure it with the spring holder, install the rubber seal, attach the wiring block to it and replace the plastic cover.

Replacing the turn signal lamp

Turn signal lamp PY21W (orange).

Replacing the turn signal lamp in the headlight without removing the fender liner or battery can be problematic due to difficult access. Some drivers are able to do this, some are not. If you cannot make a replacement with direct access, proceed as follows:

Jack up the car, remove the wheel, unscrew the two screws securing the fender liner from below to the bumper and one screw in the arch. Bend the edge of the fender liner and slide it behind the brake disc. Access is open.

Release the connector lock

And disconnect the wiring block from the lamp socket

Holding the socket, turn it and remove it from the headlight along with the lamp

By pressing and turning the lamp, remove it from the socket

Install the new lamp in reverse order

Replacing the side light bulb

Side light bulb - W5W.

Replacing the side light bulb in a headlight directly can be problematic due to difficult access. Some drivers manage to do this, some don’t, and some only do it on one side. For an easy, albeit more time-consuming replacement, do the following:

For convenience, you can disconnect the turn signal lamp connector (see above)

Turn the lamp socket (for the right headlight - counterclockwise, for the left - clockwise)

And remove it from the headlight housing

Remove the baseless lamp from the socket and replace it with a new one.

Video - Replacing the headlight bulb

Video - replacing a headlight bulb without removing the battery

Addition (owners' experience)

HEADLIGHT BULB OFTEN BURNS

Today I was traveling with a friend. He complained that he was tired of changing the headlight bulbs; they burned out catastrophically. He says that he was driving an auto electrician, who said that it was necessary to install an additional relay. What kind of relay? If the relay is a regulator, then what does the additional thing have to do with it? Isn’t it easier to select it according to the stabilization voltage 13.8v - 14.2v. It seems that the whole point is that now the low beam is used as daytime running lights and the life of the lamps is simply not enough for a long time, plus the poor quality of the lamps.

My headlights are constantly on - they usually last for 20-40 thousand km. I install the most ordinary but “branded” lamps - Narva or Osram. If they often burn out, then the voltage in the network may actually be too high, it’s worth checking. If you use the cheapest, “leftist” manufacturers, then they can really often burn out.

Still, LED daytime running lights rule. We’ll have to figure out how to put them on our devices. In principle, there is a classic circuit of two relays and two diodes, but without having the electrical circuit of the device it is still difficult to judge; additional decoupling may be required.

What for? They won't pay for themselves soon. It's easier to change light bulbs.

You probably won’t find a better stabilizer than a battery (read very large capacity). From theory it is known that everything is electronic. devices burn out at the moment of switching on or off (so-called transients) when the voltage increases several times for milliseconds (pulse). If an electrical device cannot withstand this, it means it is either of low quality or has exhausted its service life.

If the generator produces 16 volts, sooner or later the lamps will light up. The lamp, while cold, has low resistance and surge occurs when turned on. Arm yourself with a voltmeter and take the time to measure the on-board voltage with the engine running! And then draw conclusions on a specific car

I completely agree. Excessive voltage in the on-board network due to a bad regulator relay is not good. However, my experience says (I don’t pretend to be the ultimate truth) that either the relay-regulator flies completely and the voltage jumps to 30-40 volts, which the generator produces without a RR, or the RR underestimates the voltage, the battery is undercharged, and even more often the diode flies out one of the phase (there are three) windings of the generator is also undercharged.

Well, yes. It is somewhat more difficult to burn an LED by excess than a lamp. And it would be a good idea to install a 12 volt stabilizer on board the network. Well, of course, except for the starter. Well, that’s in theory. But the guarantee providers will treat this poorly. There is also an option to install a smooth ignition circuit for the lamps, when the voltage is not applied to the lamps immediately, but with an increase, which eliminates current surges when turned on. And the lamp becomes almost eternal. this is the topic. Although for the stops and turn signals this is extra ignition time, which is very bad. So, LEDs.

After buying the car, a couple of months later the original Osram lamps burned out every 3 days. Replaced them with Philips. They are still running, they have already driven 40 thousand since the replacement, and in about a year

Why do light bulbs burn out? It's not all that complicated. In Logan-like cars, engine speeds go up when cold. And as a result, the generator rotates faster, which means it produces increased voltage. Let's add to all this a cold, drained battery that automatically begins to take on more charge. + some kind of turned on stove. All this together affects the functioning of the brain of the regulator relay. They are there, even though they are chicken, nevertheless. Therefore, turning on the headlights on a cold, unstable engine, you can catch an impulse to increase the voltage of the on-board network, skipping the regulator relay. Which leads to the death of the light bulb. Anyone familiar with automotive electronics? He knows that it is assembled using parts that are radically different in their “margin of safety” from ordinary parts. Which are used in consumer electronics. Not in the sense of the mechanical strength of the parts themselves, but in the electronic potential reserve. Because of this, auto electronics are quite expensive and they are used specifically in cars. The use of simple parts in auto electronics leads to their rapid failure. In general, without delving into theory. Simple advice. While the car is cold and running at high speeds, there is no need to turn on the headlights. Wait a few minutes until the voltage on the on-board network is more or less stabilized, then turn on the headlights and only 10-20 seconds after that you can turn on the headlights. After a few more seconds, when the lamps have warmed up a little, you can go. Increase engine speed. By following this simple recommendation, it will be more difficult to spot a burnt-out light bulb in a headlight. If you analyze the burnout of lamps, they almost always burn out when turned on. During operation, they, as a rule, rarely burn out. I have been using this method for a long time and have almost no complaints about lamp burnouts in my various cars.

All fuel-injected cars have increased revs when cold, and the lights only light up on Logan and Largus cars. You should have installed a regular relay on the lights and there would have been no problems or theories about where these problems come from.

What do they give the relay, I wanted to ask? Is the theory still interesting? Both in the steering column contacts and in the relay contacts. Relays are installed in other cars - to save not the lamps, but the contacts of the expensive steering column switch from excessive load and decouple the power circuits (shorten them) and all that... Your point of view about the influence of an additional relay on the safety of the lamps is interesting. I have mileage and a considerable lifespan (more than 10 years) - but the factory lamps are still in place... Maybe I still have a German OSRAM and not a Muhosran one under license and import substitution? Lamps often burn out for those who work in start-stop mode (taxi drivers) - turn them off and start them, turn them on and off. And for those who drive on bumpy roads with poor surfaces with the lights on. Well, why does the relay-regulator drive 15.2 instead of 14.8 volts? I read about Logan 1.4 and remembered: everyone had different generators on Logans before. The 1.4 and 1.6 differed in both power and brand. For example, I have a 1.6 with air conditioning - Mitsubishi costs maximum power. And at 1, 4 there were low-power Valeo. Accordingly, the relay regulators are also different and calibrated differently. And on a low-power generator, voltage surges are larger.

I'll tell you a terrible secret. Light bulbs burn out everywhere, even on Ferraris. Therefore, you should not put Logans and Largus out of brackets. On my last Logan, not a single light bulb in the headlight burned out in 4 years, and on the current one, everything is intact for 3.5 years. Well, yes, I have running lights installed on both Logans, and expensive Philips lamps were installed from new. Perhaps this also somehow affects the situation? However, I always adhere to the basic rule of turning on the headlights. Described above.

Another interesting nuance... In the most common brands in Russia today, Kia Rio-Solaris, the low beam headlights are turned on automatically when the engine is started (without asking the driver). The lamps are the same H4. But not OSRAM, but something Korean-Chinese. And the lamps don’t light up - there’s no such problem. And all because there is a relay-regulator built into the generator - two-mode (from the load) and with temperature compensation from winter-summer! So the point is the old-fashioned design and low-cost logan type, and not the skill and experience of the driver... and the lack of a relay

Good afternoon, forum members! Allow me, so to speak, to “get smart” on the topic of light bulbs. (It just so happens that I have been working on the topic of “lamp protection” for more than 15 years). When cold light bulbs are turned on, the cold filament current is 10 times (or even more!) higher than the working current, which leads to the burning of the lamps. That is, the better the contact in the lamp base, the worse it is? More likely “yes” than “no”... What will graphite save you from? Maybe from overheating - it will improve heat transfer from the lamp to the base... How does a regular relay help against lamp burnout? - No way. It relieves the burden on the steering column switch, which is more expensive than the relay and the relay is easier to replace. How does an electronic relay (electronic units) help? For example, electronic relay DRL-30-MA? — Very strong: 1. It has a “soft start” - for BS lamps, or a “soft start” (switch on with current limitation) - for DS headlights. The relay has the ability to easily change settings. 2. In addition, this relay has voltage stabilization (limitation) at a specified upper level - by default (from the factory) it is set to 14.7V and can be very easily reconfigured. 3. This relay has a “DRL mode” - the headlights operate when the normal mode is turned off (i.e. all daylight hours!) in the “DRL mode” at 65% (2/3) - for BS or at 25% (1/4 ) - for DS (percentages can be changed). The DRL mode turns on after starting the engine and works until the ignition is turned off (of course, it is possible to control this mode - see Description of the relay). In DRL mode, i.e. reduced brightness-power, lamps can work for a very long time without losing their characteristics and properties - they specifically tested them on their machines for 5 years or more (compared with new ones). When turned on normally, 100% is supplied to the headlights (smoothly for low beam or sharply for high beam). The problem of lamp burnout was and is especially obvious on Chevrolet Lacetti, Chevrolet Captiva, GW Hover (these generally have voltage in the on-board network jumping to 16 volts or more when reverse gear is engaged!), etc., it was for them that the “” function was originally introduced. stabilization-limitation" voltage on the headlights. So, our cars are clearly not the leaders here.

A couple of years ago I set the BS and PTF to “soft ignition” without changing the lamps, although the low beam is always on when driving.

I know about soft ignition and how it works. Now we need to implement it. I'm tired of changing lamps. Although I don’t turn them on often.

Aliexpress sells a harness that breaks the standard wiring, with a relay switching power to the lamps directly from the battery, I’ve been using it for a year: the lamps do not burn out. On Largus, as on some Japanese cars, the lamps are powered without a relay, and the load goes through the steering column switch, and when driving it rattles, sparks and the contacts burn out, as a result the lamps and then the steering column switch burn. It's called - 1set - H4 headlight brighter headlight booster h4 headlights car headlight brighter There is a minus during installation, the H4 ceramic connectors on the harness are slightly larger than the standard ones, the headlight cover does not snap into place, I warmed up the bubbles on the cover with a hairdryer

I looked, it looks like ordinary relyushki. The circuit is used to relieve the load on the steering column contacts, and does not affect the service life of the lamps. Or is there a smooth increase in current here?

That's right, they just switch the power to the battery. First of all, the lamp needs stable power, when I turn it on they never burn out, only when driving, I suffered for six months with monthly replacement of lamps and bought such a harness (you can make it yourself), I’ve been driving with regular lighthouse lamps for a year now and no problems. The asking price is 600-700 rubles, you can find it cheaper there, I just paid more for the H4 ceramic forks

2Side turn signal repeaters

If your side turn signal light bulb has burned out, then you will need to replace it as follows:

First you need to remove the side repeater. To do this, you need to move it slightly, no more than 5mm.
After that, we pull out the back part, which is located under the wing. Now you will need to get the side pointer.
The next step is to take out the rubber cover, which is located in the hole of the front fender.
Please note that you need to pull out both the cartridge and the cover at the same time.
Now we just listen to the light bulb that has burned out and put a new one in its place.
Installation of all parts is carried out in reverse order.
Just a few steps and the light bulb in the side turn signal repeater is replaced with a new one.
Now let's take a closer look at how to replace the turn signal lamp in the lights located at the rear of the car:
In order to carry out this process, you will first need to pull out the circuit board on the taillight
Only after this the driver will have to take out the bulb that has burned out and put a new one in its place.
As you can see from the information above, replacing a turn signal lamp is a very simple process that anyone who has never even repaired their car can handle. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to know the sequence of actions that should be taken into account for trouble-free replacement of such light bulbs.

Our recommendations

A mechanic should check all of the vehicle's lights during every major service.

Diagram of a headlight with a turn signal lamp

Turn signal lamps

Replacing the turn signal lamp

3Rules for replacing turn signal lamps

There are a number of rules that must be followed when changing turn signal bulbs:

First of all, the car is always completely turned off, that is, the ignition must be turned off under any circumstances.
The light bulb must be selected in accordance with the old version that needs to be replaced. If you cannot determine the type and type of light bulb visually, then first you will have to remove the light bulb and go buy a new one with it.
The entire process of replacing a light bulb must be carried out carefully and slowly so as not to damage any other parts in the car.
In any type of car, all turn signal bulbs can be screwed in and out very simply, without much effort. You need to understand that the light bulb goes very easily along the thread and if this process is not so easy. This means you are doing something wrong. There can be many reasons - the spiral is rusty, which means it needs to be cleaned, or the light bulb you are going to put in the turn signal does not fit.

If you unscrew the turn signal itself and find that there is any contamination there, you must get rid of them, and immediately, do not leave everything as is, because this arrangement can negatively affect the operation of the turn signal itself.

If the light bulb in the turn signal has burned out, it’s not a problem, because replacing it with a new one is not at all difficult, especially if you have carefully read these instructions.

A guide to replacing all headlight bulbs on Ford Focus cars.

In your Ford Focus, the low or high beam lamp does not light up, or the light bulb in one of the front turn signals has failed..? It is likely that one of the bulbs in the front headlight optics has burned out, which you just need to take and replace with a new one. Remember, friends, that you must do this as quickly as possible, since non-working bulbs in the headlights of a car (especially in the turn signals) reduce your own safety while driving. After all, many light bulbs in a car play a very important role in the safety of all road users.

This manual is specifically described by us for owners of third generation
Ford Focus (MK III) cars of 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 release .
With the help of this guide, you can independently replace or change (as you wish) the low beam, high beam and front turn signal bulbs on your car. Also, with the help of our prescribed tips, you can replace no less important lamps on the front headlights of the car themselves - i.e. so-called marker lamps. Owners of cars such as Ford models (hatchback and sedan), as well as Fiesta, Fusion (Mondeo), Taurus and C-Max models may also find our guide useful so that you can easily replace the bulbs in the headlights of your cars.

The following lamps were used in the front lighting optics of the Ford Focus III 2011 - 2014 model year:

Low beam: # H11 lamp (55 W).

High beam: # H1 lamp (60 W).

Turn signals: # lamp 7440 (PY21W - 21 W).

Side lights: # lamp 168NA (W5W - 5 W - W2.1×9.5d.).

Necessary tools for replacing headlight bulbs:

A large screwdriver with an asterisk and with the necessary attachment to the size of the headlight bolts themselves.

What kind of light bulbs are in the headlights of the VAZ 2114 and other lighting devices?

Below we talk about what kind of light bulbs are in the headlights of the VAZ 2114, as well as in all other lighting fixtures of this car. In addition, the article provides expert advice on choosing light bulbs.

What kind of lamps are in the headlights of the VAZ 2114?

For the headlights, the manufacturer selected lighting elements with an H4 socket . These are halogen lamps that simultaneously have two operating modes - low and high beam. Depending on the manufacturer, lamp specifications may vary.

The lighting element has 3 contact pads for connecting an electrical connector. One contact is common; it is connected to the car body. The other two sites are responsible for low and high beams. A halogen lamp is a lighting element whose glass bulb is filled with gas. Parts of this type are characterized by high luminous brightness and improved directionality of the light flux.

Which light bulbs are better to choose?

By default, the VAZ 2114 is equipped with lamps that do not give the required effect in conditions of poor visibility. In this regard, car owners often replace lighting elements with better models. The choice is made based on the personal readings of the car owner. Before purchasing, you must study the technical specifications of the part. The following models are most common among motorists:

OsramCoolBlueBoost – This is a high-quality lamp from a German manufacturer. Emits white light, which has a positive effect on visibility in low visibility conditions. The brightness indicators of the model are at a high level. Lighting element power 100/90 W. The service life ranges from 120 to 400 hours of continuous operation. The price of the product differs depending on the region and amounts to on average 1100-1200 Russian rubles.

Philips Blue V ision Ultra . _ _ The power of the lighting element is 60/50 W. The model is distinguished by high brightness. Cold white light allows you to see the road situation regardless of the level of illumination. The cost of two lamps in this series is 1400 - 1500 Russian rubles .

IPF T itan W hite are high-quality models from the Japanese manufacturer. A distinctive feature of the product is its high luminous characteristics and long service life. The lamps provide high-quality illumination of the road surface regardless of weather conditions. Power is 55 W. The cost of a product from a Japanese manufacturer averages 2,200 rubles .

Replacing the high beam bulb on a Ford Focus

The high beam bulb in the headlight is located in the inner corner of the front optics.

-Remove the rubber cap that protects the headlight from dirt, moisture and dust.

-The rubber cover has been removed from the headlight unit.

-Press the plastic button to disconnect the power connector from the high beam lamp.

By removing the rubber plug at the rear of the headlight you will have access to the high beam lamp. But you won’t be able to get it right away. To do this, you first need to disconnect the power connector from the lamp.

-Remove the connector holding the lamp.

-Do it friends as shown in the photo.

-Press the button with your finger to disconnect the connector itself.

The photos above show in more detail how the clamping mechanism works, which secures the connector itself that powers the high beam lamp.

This clamp design is based on a plug.

— You have free access to the high beam lamp (H1).

-This is an enlarged photograph of an old high beam lamp installed in the socket.

-Remove the old high beam bulb from the headlight.

-Take the metal contact of the high beam lamp with your fingers and pull the bulb towards you, thus removing it from the headlight housing.

-This is the socket in the headlight for the high beam bulb.

-High beam lamp Osram H1 12V 55W (you can also install a 65 W lamp).

-Install a new bulb H1 into the headlight housing.

Due to the fact that the round H1 high beam lamp for the Ford Focus III has a flat edge on one side, it is impossible to install the lamp incorrectly. Align the flat edge with the empty socket in the headlight and install the lamp into place.

-New high beam lamp installed.

-Install the power connector by pressing it on top with your finger.

New high beam bulb installed and connected to power

-Carefully insert the black plastic electrical connector directly into the base of the new high beam bulb.

-Reinstall the rubber cover that blocks access to the inside of the headlight, where the high beam bulb is located.

Instructions for replacing lamps on Kalina 2

Low beam

Carefully remove the rubber boot from the low beam (it is larger in size)

Disconnect the block from the lamp

Next, press the spring clamp and remove it from the clamps to the side and move it away

We remove the burnt out one and install a new lamp. The H7 Osram lamp is installed from the factory; if you want to install brighter lamps, you can choose the Philips H7 +30.

We reassemble in reverse order.

High beam

Remove the rubber boot from the high beam

Disconnect the block from the lamp (Only the + wire is attached to the lamp)

Press the spring clamp of the lamp and move it to the side

We take out the old lamp and install a new one. Be careful when installing, it can only be installed in one position.

We also perform assembly in reverse order.

Replacing DRL lamps

Take the cartridge and turn it counterclockwise.

Next, remove the socket from the socket, take out the old lamp and install a new one. Toshiba lamps are installed from the factory; it is impossible to buy them in retail stores, so we choose an analogue.

On a note

We replace spark plugs every 30 thousand km.

Over-tightening the spark plugs can damage the threads in the spark plug holes in the cylinder head.

The Kalina and Kalina 2 models have different headlights, so replacing the lamps in them has certain differences, and we will describe which ones in this article. Replacing the lamps yourself will not cause you any problems. Therefore, there is no point in turning to the service for help.

On Kalina 2 from 2013, to replace the lamps in the left headlight unit, you need to move the air filter to the side so that it does not interfere. There will be nothing in the right headlight block that will prevent replacement.

Reasons for failure of turn signal lamps

The turn signal is an important light signal when operating a vehicle. Often its malfunction leads to an emergency situation on the road. The turn signal relay often damages the lamps. Small power surges can damage turn signal lamps, as well as the entire electrical system of the vehicle. The use of low-quality fuses often leads to problems in the entire power supply system of the vehicle. It is necessary to carry out timely diagnostics of the entire power supply system of the vehicle. Sometimes untimely diagnosis of a car's electrical system leads to a fire.

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