Scheme for switching on the Reverse Lights of a VAZ 2110 Sensor diagnostics

Leaving your garage one evening, you notice that nothing lights the way. The situation, frankly speaking, is unpleasant and makes you think about it. After all, the rear lights of a VAZ 2110 should be on in normal mode. This means that there is some kind of malfunction that needs to be found and eliminated. Who knows what the reason is, we will have to figure it out. If the reverse lights of a VAZ 2110 do not light up, then, in all likelihood, it is possible that they have simply burned out. Maybe it's a simple failure of a fuse or sensor.

Troubleshooting

As I said above, the lights may not light if the reverse sensor is broken. But there are other malfunctions that cause the same effect, and they occur no less frequently than sensor failure. Their list:

  • the reversing light bulb has burned out;
  • the power wires for the lights are broken;
  • the contacts of the pads have oxidized;
  • fuses have failed;
  • There is no ground on the flashlight board.

Now let’s start troubleshooting, and start with the reasons that are easiest to diagnose. But before we begin, let’s digress a little and take a look at the electrical diagram of the VAZ 2110 lighting devices. It will be useful to us.

Electrical diagram of lighting devices of a VAZ 2110 car

Reverse sensor

To check it, all you need is an inspection hole and a regular paperclip or piece of wire. If there is no hole, then, as I said above, everything can be done from above, through the hood. However, to do this you will have to remove the air cleaner.

On a VAZ 2110, the reverse sensor (marked with an arrow) can also be reached through the engine compartment

Find the reverse sensor, let me remind you that in the VAZ 2110 it is located on the left side of the power take-off box if you stand in the direction of the car. Pull out the connector (block) with two wires from it. To do this, simply pull the connector housing.

Removing wires from the reverse sensor on a VAZ 2110

In some cases, to get to the reverse sensor, it is necessary to remove the protective cover covering the gearbox from below.

Fuse

So, we are interested in fuse F19, located in the mounting block. The mounting block itself on the VAZ 2110 is located under the steering column on the left.

Remove the block and find fuse F19. If the fuses on your mounting block are not marked or are marked with obscure pictograms, then use the photo I provide below as a guide.

Numbering of fuses in the VAZ 2110 mounting block

Pull the F19 out of the holder and look at it in the light: if the fuse is blown, it can be seen with the naked eye.

A burnt-out jumper is clearly visible - the fuse has blown

If everything seems to be in order by eye, don’t be lazy to run it with a tester, so that after a week of troubleshooting in all possible places, you won’t be excruciatingly painful for wasted time. So, is the fuse good? You can move on to the next point. If it's burnt, then hold on to it.

Many owners of VAZ cars in such cases simply replace the burnt one with a working one and, as a rule, get another burnt one. If you have a lot of extra 10 A fuses, you can experiment. But it's better to think a little about why this happened.

  1. The reversing lights of the VAZ 2110 are equipped with lamps of greater power than those provided for by the VAZ design.
  2. There is a short circuit in the power supply circuit of the reversing lights (see electrical diagram above) to the car body.

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The reverse gear does not light up - what to do? If not, then it needs to be changed. By the way, it definitely needs to be changed if the reverse lights are on even when the reverse gear is not engaged. Ask, I'm in touch!

Repair methods

To repair the reverse signal, you can proceed in two ways. They differ in the way the sensor is accessed.

  • Drive the car onto a lift or pit.
  • Do the work by climbing under the car.

If you have already encountered a similar problem, then you will probably agree that replacing the DZH is best done using a pit or overpass. This makes access to the sensor as comfortable as possible, plus you minimize the risk of being splashed with oil from the gearbox.

Of course, there is another cleanest way - sending the car to a car repair shop. But then you will have to pay not only for the sensor, but also for the services of the specialists. And this is another 2-3 times the cost of the sensor. The choice is yours anyway.

Self-replacement

It’s not difficult to get to and replace a failed DZH on your own. Follow the instructions, do not break the sequence of operations, and then the process will not take you much time and effort.

  1. Place the car on a pit or overpass. Be sure to apply the handbrake and place the transmission in first gear. This will help prevent your car from accidentally rolling away.
  2. Remove the protection from the contacts of your sensor, disconnect the contacts.
  3. Prepare a container into which the oil will be drained when unscrewing the DZH.
  4. When the container is ready, remove the sensor. In some cases, it may not be unscrewed by hand. In such a situation, use a 22 mm socket.
  5. Very rarely even the key cannot help, since the sensor becomes stuck to its location. Here you will have to arm yourself with a hammer and chisel and try to remove it as carefully as possible.
  6. Take out the failed device and insert a new one in its place.
  7. If oil gets on the gearbox housing, remove it with dry rags. There is no need for extra dirt. Plus, it can lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the device.
  8. Return all contacts to their places, put the protection back on.
  9. If a decent amount of lubricating fluid has spilled out of the box, be sure to top it up. Just use fresh ones. By the way, this is one of the reasons to completely change the oil in the gearbox if it has been there for more than the first season.
  10. The decision to change the oil will simplify the task when removing the sensor. If the liquid is drained in advance, it will not flow in different directions when the sensor is unscrewed. The work will be cleaner, plus you will kill two birds with one stone - replace the sensor and gearbox oil.

After completing the work, do not forget to check whether the reverse traffic warning system is now working. For this:

  • Turn the ignition key, but do not start the engine;
  • Engage reverse gear on your gearbox;
  • See if the white lights turn on. If yes, everything went great.

How much it costs?

Many VAZ 2114 owners are often interested in the cost of certain spare parts. In the case of DZH, a new device will cost you up to 300 rubles. You can find devices for 100 rubles.

The price depends on the manufacturer, quality level and pricing policy of the auto parts store where you decide to shop.

Additionally, it wouldn’t hurt to purchase WD40, which can be used to clean contacts. Plus, the wires may need to be replaced. We do not recommend doing this on your own if you do not have the relevant experience.

If the culprit for the problem with the rear lights is the light bulbs themselves, replacing them will cost a pittance. Today they cost up to 50 rubles.

If the white lights on the rear of the “Seven” stop glowing when moving in reverse, then the malfunction requires immediate correction. Not only do non-working reverse lights do not meet the technical requirements for the car and traffic rules, but this breakdown misleads other road users and can provoke an accident; as a rule, the reverse sensor on the VAZ 2107 can be to blame.

Usually, in order to eliminate such a malfunction, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2107 reverse sensor. It is not necessary to spend time and money on a visit to a service station specialist - you can diagnose and replace the sensor yourself. But first you need to make sure that it was he who caused the malfunction.

Symptoms of malfunctions

Of course, it is very easy to suspect that the reverse sensor is not working - when you engage reverse gear, the lights do not light up.

What kind of lighting do you prefer?

Built-in Chandelier

In such a situation, there are only three options for the development of events:

  1. The light bulb itself has burned out, so the element itself may be intact.
  2. The power fuse has stopped working. It’s not uncommon for him to simply burn out.
  3. The sensor itself does not work. This does not happen so often, but you will have to check its condition.

Is it because of the sensor?

Indeed, how can one determine that it is the one that has failed and not a fuse or light bulb that has blown? Everything is quite simple.

  1. You will have to remove the fuse and check it for integrity. For a VAZ 2110 car, it is planned to install a fuse number 19, the rated current of which is 7.5A. It is located in the mounting block, and the mounting block is under the dashboard.
  2. Check the condition of the lamp. If everything is fine with it too, then there is only one option left - the reverse sensor has broken.

Location

The location of the switch or frog largely depends not on the make and model of the car, but on the transmission with which the vehicle is equipped.

If it is a manual transmission, then the switch will be installed directly on the gearbox housing. When reverse gear is engaged, the switch button is pressed, the frog contacts are bridged, and current flows to the rear lights.

As for automatic transmissions, instead of a standard limit switch (frog), a selector position sensor is used. Depending on the change in the position of the automatic transmission handle, the corresponding signal is transmitted to the power unit control unit, which transmits it to the unit that controls the light.

Where is the reverse sensor located on a VAZ 2110 car?

As already mentioned, this element is installed in the gearbox. This is logical: there is no need to install remote control rods. Why not on the gearshift lever? The sensor must record exactly the moment the gear is engaged, and not the change in the position of the control mechanisms. The exact location is the gearbox housing.

You can only find it while under the car: either in a hole or using a lift. It is screwed into the crankcase in the same way as an oil drain plug: using a threaded connection. The sensor is located horizontally, on the side wall of the gearbox, on the driver's wheel side. A connector and a signal wire are connected to it: there is no other such device in this area.

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VAZ 2110 reverse sensor: where it is located, how to remove it, how to replace it, signs of malfunction. Turn on the dimensions and measure the voltage at the connector socket to which the red right side or red-yellow wire goes to the left side. Ask, I'm in touch!

Sensor diagnostics

First of all, an external inspection is carried out. We check the integrity of the wiring and the condition of the contact group. It is better to test the wiring with a multimeter from the removed connector to the nearest input into the car's distribution contact box. Next, we test the sensor itself:

  1. We put the car on a pit or on a lift.
  2. Disconnect the connector and move it to the side.
  3. Turn on the ignition without starting the engine.
  4. We connect the multimeter probes to the sensor and ask an assistant to engage reverse gear.
  5. A working sensor will show zero resistance between the contacts.

If the test fails, the sensor must be removed from the transmission. In this case, some of the transmission oil will leak out of it, so it is better to prepare a plug in the form of a bolt with the same thread or temporarily screw in another sensor.

Tip: Do not throw away the broken sensor; it may be useful for temporarily closing the hole.

After washing the outside of the housing and cleaning the contacts, you can check the sensor with the same multimeter. The pressing force on the rod is small, provided that it is not blocked by corrosion. Therefore, just press it with your finger and look at the results of measuring the resistance.

Repair methods

To repair the reverse signal, you can proceed in two ways. They differ in the way the sensor is accessed.

  • Drive the car onto a lift or pit.
  • Do the work by climbing under the car.

If you have already encountered a similar problem, then you will probably agree that replacing the DZH is best done using a pit or overpass. This makes access to the sensor as comfortable as possible, plus you minimize the risk of being splashed with oil from the gearbox.

Replacing the DZH is not the cleanest job

Of course, there is another cleanest way - sending the car to a car repair shop. But then you will have to pay not only for the sensor, but also for the services of the specialists. And this is another 2-3 times the cost of the sensor. The choice is yours anyway.

Self-replacement

It’s not difficult to get to and replace a failed DZH on your own. Follow the instructions, do not break the sequence of operations, and then the process will not take you much time and effort.

  1. Place the car on a pit or overpass. Be sure to apply the handbrake and place the transmission in first gear. This will help prevent your car from accidentally rolling away.
  2. Remove the protection from the contacts of your sensor, disconnect the contacts.
  3. Prepare a container into which the oil will be drained when unscrewing the DZH.
  4. When the container is ready, remove the sensor. In some cases, it may not be unscrewed by hand. In such a situation, use a 22 mm socket.
  5. Very rarely even the key cannot help, since the sensor becomes stuck to its location. Here you will have to arm yourself with a hammer and chisel and try to remove it as carefully as possible.
  6. Take out the failed device and insert a new one in its place.
  7. If oil gets on the gearbox housing, remove it with dry rags. There is no need for extra dirt. Plus, it can lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the device.
  8. Return all contacts to their places, put the protection back on.
  9. If a decent amount of lubricating fluid has spilled out of the box, be sure to top it up. Just use fresh ones. By the way, this is one of the reasons to completely change the oil in the gearbox if it has been there for more than the first season.
  10. The decision to change the oil will simplify the task when removing the sensor. If the liquid is drained in advance, it will not flow in different directions when the sensor is unscrewed. The work will be cleaner, plus you will kill two birds with one stone - replace the sensor and gearbox oil.

Removal and replacement

After completing the work, do not forget to check whether the reverse traffic warning system is now working. For this:

  • Turn the ignition key, but do not start the engine;
  • Engage reverse gear on your gearbox;
  • See if the white lights turn on. If yes, everything went great.

How much it costs?

Many VAZ 2114 owners are often interested in the cost of certain spare parts. In the case of DZH, a new device will cost you up to 300 rubles. You can find devices for 100 rubles.

The price depends on the manufacturer, quality level and pricing policy of the auto parts store where you decide to shop.

Additionally, it wouldn’t hurt to purchase WD40, which can be used to clean contacts. Plus, the wires may need to be replaced. We do not recommend doing this on your own if you do not have the relevant experience.

If the culprit for the problem with the rear lights is the light bulbs themselves, replacing them will cost a pittance. Today they cost up to 50 rubles.


Improving the reversing light

How to change?

  1. Place the VAZ 2110 in a pit or drive it on an overpass.
  2. Remove the engine protection, if any.
  3. Have a small container for the oil. Because when you open the sensor, oil will begin to flow out.
  4. Get under the car and disconnect the wires going to the part.
  5. Open the old sensor, immediately insert the container and screw in the new one.
  6. Add the leaked oil into the box.
  7. Stick in the wires, wipe the surfaces on which oil has gotten.
  8. Start the car and check if the lights come on when you put the vehicle in reverse.

For reference: A new one is inexpensive - from 100 rubles. Usually at the factory they install them from the VAZ 2108.

Reverse sensor VAZ 2110: where is it located, how to remove, how to replace, signs of malfunction

Now let’s start troubleshooting, and start with the reasons that are easiest to diagnose. But before we begin, let’s digress a little and take a look at the electrical diagram of the VAZ 2110 lighting devices. It will be useful to us.

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The brake lights on the VAZ 2112 do not work. Find the reverse sensor. Let me remind you that in the VAZ 2110 it is located on the left side of the power take-off box if you stand in the direction of the car. Ask, I'm in touch!

Reverse sensor for VAZ 2110

Driving out of the garage in the evening, did you notice that nothing behind you illuminates the path? This is not good. After all, the reverse lights should be on. And if they don’t light up, they either burned out, or the fuse has failed, or the reverse sensor of the VAZ 2110 has broken down. We’ll talk about the latter today. To find out for sure whether it is really out of order, do the following:

  1. Look at the condition of fuse No. 19 at 7.5 A. It is located under the instrument panel in the mounting block.
  2. Now check the light bulbs. If they are also in order, then you need to check the functionality of the reverse sensor. Only a question arises...

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.

Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning reverse sensor

It is better to find the primary circuit from the sensor using the electrical diagram of your car, and route this signal to a new device. Of course, you should use a relay rather than connecting the device directly. A fuse must be added to the circuit.

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Common problems with optics and how to fix them It transmits information, turns on the voltage to the lights, thereby allowing drivers around you to see that you are about to reverse. Ask, I'm in touch!

How the system works

The sensor itself is a limit switch with normally open contacts. Under external influence, the contact group begins to move and closes. A special feature of this device is its aggressive operating conditions, as it is located in the engine compartment. That is, the electrical part must be sealed and protected from vibration.

The body of the device is metal, on one side there is a movable rod with an oil seal, on the other there is a contact group. The connection between the plastic dielectric and the metal main body is protected against the penetration of liquids.

The sensor is screwed into the gearbox in a strictly defined place. When moving the mechanism (scene) for engaging reverse gear, a special protrusion sets the sensor rod in motion. The contacts close and current can flow through the wires.

  • activates the relay coil for turning on the reverse lights;
  • gives a signal to turn on the parking assistance system;
  • when a rear view camera is installed, it supplies power to it (again, through a relay).

The return spring is located inside the housing. After the impact on the rod has ceased, that is, the reverse gear has returned to a state of rest, the contact group returns back and opens. All involved electrics are switched off:

Advice: If you install additional electronics on a VAZ 2110 or 2112, such as parking sensors or a rear view camera, then it is not recommended to connect to the contacts of the reversing lights.

It is better to find the primary circuit from the sensor using the electrical diagram of your car, and route this signal to a new device. Of course, you should use a relay rather than connecting the device directly. A fuse must be added to the circuit.

Algorithm of actions when replacing a sensor

Changing it is not particularly difficult, but you need to do the following:

  • To replace the car, you need to put it in a pit or drive it onto an overpass.
  • If there is engine protection, it must be removed.
  • You should first prepare some kind of container for the oil, since the moment the sensor is unscrewed, a certain part of the oil will leak out.
  • Then you need to unscrew the wires that are connected to the sensor.
  • The old sensor must be removed and a new device installed in its place.
  • The oil that leaked out during the sensor replacement process must be added to the box.
  • Next, the wires are connected. They must first be wiped dry to remove any oil that has got on them.
  • Then you should start the car and check for light from the bulbs when reverse is engaged.

Such measures are one of the options for eliminating the problem in which the reverse lights of the VAZ 2110 do not light up.

Dismantling and disassembly

There are several possible scenarios if the rear view camera stops working. The first involves contacting a car repair shop or an official service center, the second means eliminating the problem with your own efforts. If the device was purchased recently and its warranty period has not yet expired, it is advisable to take it to professional technicians. In the absence of a warranty, it is much cheaper and easier to restore the system yourself.

Even an inexperienced driver can get rid of breakdowns and errors in the camera’s operation. To do this, you need to know the basic principles of the system’s operation, the specifics of breakdowns and dismantling. Most models are analyzed according to the following principles:

  • If the device is not able to start automatically or does not work at all, you will have to dismantle the entire casing.
  • The first step is to remove the small panel at the top where the fasteners are located. They are removed to remove the main part of the skin. Under the skin layer there are nuts that secure the trunk handle. Four self-tapping screws are used to mount the camera. Two are for the device itself, and two more are for fixing the connector.
  • If there are traces of corrosion on the surface of the radar, it is necessary to get rid of them, and only then proceed to the next stage.
  • Self-tapping screws are used to connect the body. When dismantling you need to be careful, because... they undergo oxidation.
  • If moisture gets under the housing, you will have to dry it. To do this, just clean the surface with a brush and then cover it with varnish to protect it from moisture.
  • Many cameras have two gaskets. One of them is located on the camera eyepiece, the second is at the joints between the plastic parts and the body. If the gaskets are deformed, they will have to be replaced.
  • Assembly of a working camera is carried out using the reverse principle. Before this, you need to treat the joints with a hermetic compound.

Main reasons

Almost all problems related to automotive electrical systems can be solved in approximately the same way. You need to look for a potential or probable cause of malfunctions in the problematic object itself, or understand the system responsible for supplying power.

The situation is exactly the same with devices called brake lights. If they stop working, then you should look for the reason in one of the following points:

  • There were problems with the fuse. It has oxidized or completely failed;
  • There are faults in the lamps themselves or in one lamp, depending on how many stops are not working;
  • The reason lies in the mechanism responsible for turning on the warning signal when the brake is applied;
  • In the socket where the stop light is installed, the contacts have oxidized;
  • More serious problems appeared related to damage to the wiring.

Based on the stated reasons why the feet may stop working, we can draw a completely objective conclusion. A truly serious malfunction concerns only wear or damage to the electrical wiring. Solving such a problem with your own hands is not always correct.

When the rear brake lights (left and right) or the additional central brake light repeater fail, do not rush to look for an auto electrician and offer him money to fix the problem.

It would be a good idea to study the owner's manual and understand how to get to the stops on your car.

Fuse

The first place to start is by searching for the mounting block in which the fuse responsible for the brake light is located.

Moreover, each machine has its own electrical circuit and specific location of fuses.

These can vary significantly depending on the vehicle, such as:

  • VAZ 2110;
  • VAZ 2107;
  • Toyota Rav 4;
  • Ford Fusion;
  • VAZ 2114;
  • VAZ 2115;
  • Ford Focus;
  • Chevrolet Lacetti;
  • Lada Granta;
  • Hyundai Accent;
  • Renault Logan;
  • Hyundai Solaris, etc.

A blown fuse quite often causes the failure of a number of equipment, including lighting devices. Check fuses visually and using a multimeter.

But there is a simple and effective way to check that takes a minimum of time. To do this, start the engine and hold down the horn button. This is not suitable for all car models, but on many vehicles the same fuse is often responsible for the sound signal and brake lights.

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Other causes of taillight malfunctions In this case, some of the transmission oil will leak out of it, so it is better to prepare a plug in the form of a bolt with the same thread or temporarily screw in another sensor. Ask, I'm in touch!

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

To protect against voltage surges and other influences on the electrical component, a side light fuse is also included in the circuit along with the light bulbs and the button. At the moment of overvoltage, it burns out, but due to this everything else in the circuit remains intact. It is usually located in the engine compartment, where in the VAZ 2114 there is a place for a whole fuse block for all electrical networks in the car.

Since all of them have markings, we can easily find the parts that we need: F10 is responsible for the safety of the lamps on the left side of the car, and F11 for the right. Thus, in the event of a failure of one half, for example, when the rear left indicator does not light up, the right side of the car will remain operational and will do its job. And if the size fuse blows, then replacing it is, in principle, quite simple - this is considered the simplest malfunction of this kind.

Diagram and location of fuses on the VAZ 2114 (also on 2113 and 2115)

How to change?

  1. Place the VAZ 2110 in a pit or drive it on an overpass.
  2. Remove the engine protection, if any.
  3. Have a small container for the oil. Because when you open the sensor, oil will begin to flow out.
  4. Get under the car and disconnect the wires going to the part.
  5. Open the old sensor, immediately insert the container and screw in the new one.
  6. Add the leaked oil into the box.
  7. Stick in the wires, wipe the surfaces on which oil has gotten.
  8. Start the car and check if the lights come on when you put the vehicle in reverse.

Replacing the reverse sensor of a VAZ 2107 For reference: A new one is inexpensive - from 100 rubles. Usually at the factory they install them from the VAZ 2108.

Why did it happen so?

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A few words about the “serviceability relay” At the same time, lightly tug the wires entering them; any of them could easily rot and hang on the same insulation, creating the impression of serviceability. Ask, I'm in touch!

Sensor diagnostics

First of all, an external inspection is carried out. We check the integrity of the wiring and the condition of the contact group. It is better to test the wiring with a multimeter from the removed connector to the nearest input into the car's distribution contact box. Next, we test the sensor itself:

  1. We put the car on a pit or on a lift.
  2. Disconnect the connector and move it to the side.
  3. Turn on the ignition without starting the engine.
  4. We connect the multimeter probes to the sensor and ask an assistant to engage reverse gear.
  5. A working sensor will show zero resistance between the contacts.

If the test fails, the sensor must be removed from the transmission. In this case, some of the transmission oil will leak out of it, so it is better to prepare a plug in the form of a bolt with the same thread or temporarily screw in another sensor.

Tip: Do not throw away the broken sensor; it may be useful for temporarily closing the hole.

After washing the outside of the housing and cleaning the contacts, you can check the sensor with the same multimeter. The pressing force on the rod is small, provided that it is not blocked by corrosion. Therefore, just press it with your finger and look at the results of measuring the resistance.

Fuse blown

An equally common reason why headlights do not light up. The block where all the car fuses are grouped is open, their location is open and the search for what is needed is open. A burnt jumper is in most cases visible to the naked eye. The student will also be able to handle gluing the entire part together, so a trip to the service station may also be unnecessary in this case.

READ Fuse Box VAZ 2104 Old Model

By the way, if fuses blow with unenviable regularity, then there is a breakdown somewhere in the wiring. Either call the entire circuit yourself, or contact a professional electrician. Discrepancies with the wires threaten all sorts of troubles, even fire.

Wire problems:

And in a variety of places. You will need to check all the terminals at the connection to the relay and fuse box. They may spin poorly and fall out; may oxidize and current will not flow. In the first case, it is enough to tighten the clamping nuts, in the second. clean contacts.

You should also check the power button: very often the wire leading to it becomes oxidized or goes away. We can say that in domestic cars, first of all, you should be interested in the button itself, and only then go somewhere deeper.

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

On the left side there is a connector through which the wiring goes to the fifth door. The connector has black and red wires. Check the voltages on them. Most often the ground on the black wire does not ring. But maybe the connector itself needs to be cleaned.

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

By the way, one of the connector terminals receives a voltage of “12 Volts”. Check it!

If all the steps do not lead to results, there is only one thing left: contact a qualified electrician. We wish you success.

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Flashlight In this case, some of the transmission oil will leak out of it, so it is better to prepare a plug in the form of a bolt with the same thread or temporarily screw in another sensor. Ask, I'm in touch!

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