What to do if the engine fails? We diagnose and repair!

As many people know, an internal combustion engine is a rather complex mechanism that needs to be regularly maintained and repaired from time to time. Otherwise, some problems may appear during operation. Drivers often feel that the engine becomes more difficult to start, its power decreases, gasoline consumption increases, unusual sounds and vibrations arise, and the engine begins to operate unstably.

You need to remember that if the engine of a VAZ 2107 is misfiring, this is a serious breakdown that needs to be fixed urgently so as not to lead to more complex problems. In this article we will discuss how the breakdown manifests itself, what the causes may be and how to eliminate them.

What to do if the engine fails? We diagnose and repair!

As many people know, an internal combustion engine is a rather complex mechanism that needs to be regularly maintained and repaired from time to time.
Otherwise, some problems may appear during operation. Drivers often feel that the engine becomes more difficult to start, its power decreases, gasoline consumption increases, unusual sounds and vibrations arise, and the engine begins to operate unstably. You need to remember that if the engine of a VAZ 2107 is misfiring, this is a serious breakdown that needs to be fixed urgently so as not to lead to more complex problems. In this article we will discuss how the breakdown manifests itself, what the causes may be and how to eliminate them.

Problems with fuel and other systems

The “check” can also light up due to a malfunction of the fuel system. The engine will also stall. A common situation is an insufficient amount of fuel supplied to the cylinder. This may indicate contamination of the injectors. But tripling also occurs for other reasons. This:

• Dirty fuel filter.
• Problems with the fuel pump.
• Faulty air flow sensor.
• Worn throttle valve.

It is recommended to check the compression level. If at the same time the cylinder has low compression (it differs from neighboring cylinders by 2 or more units), this may indicate serious mechanical malfunctions, such as:

• Piston burnout.
• Wear of piston rings.

In this situation, it will no longer be possible to fix the breakdown yourself. Requires engine disassembly and complex repairs.

Five signs of tripling

It is very important that the fault is diagnosed in a timely manner. Then you need to isolate the problem as quickly as possible so that repairs can be made.

So, if the VAZ 2107 engine has trouble with the carburetor, the reason for this may be the malfunction of one of the cylinders. Sometimes several cylinders fail at once. In fact, this is due to the fact that for some reason the working mixture does not ignite in the combustion chamber of an idle cylinder, or it does not burn completely.

We list five signs of engine tripping in a VAZ:

1. At idle, the engine begins to twitch and shake. Sometimes the shaking becomes so powerful that the vibrations are felt throughout the body, transmitted to the steering wheel and even to the gear lever. With such strong vibration, we are most likely talking about a complete failure of one of the cylinders.
2. The engine power noticeably disappears, the driver feels the gas pedal sink, jerks appear during acceleration, and fuel consumption increases. The check engine light may come on. Of course, these problems also appear with other malfunctions. But this is exactly how tripling manifests itself.
3. The engine speed begins to float or jump. RPM fluctuations can be either minor or quite large.
4. If you look at the electrodes of the spark plugs, you will notice black carbon deposits. Of course, this may indicate a malfunction of the spark plug itself. But if, after changing the spark plug set, carbon deposits appear again in the near future, then there is another reason for the breakdown.
5. The exhaust system begins to operate with sound “jerks” that transmit vibration to the body.

Even if you notice only one of these symptoms, you urgently need to understand what was the source of the breakdown. The point is that equipment failures cannot be ignored. After all, delay can lead to more serious problems that will require expensive repairs.

Conclusion

The reasons for the tripping of the VAZ 2107 injection engine have been identified and the main methods for eliminating the malfunction have been established. But, if a motorist is not sure that he is able to repair his car on his own, then it is better not to risk it and turn to professionals.

Good afternoon, RusAuto fans. The next question is, maybe someone has come across this before.

Last night I came home, put the car in park, everything worked great, even the XX didn’t jump, I turned it off and went to bed, I didn’t warm up the car at night, it usually started like that. In general, I insert the key, turn it, silence, although all the sensors are on, the battery is charged. The manipulation is repeated several times, on the 6th or 7th time the car catches and starts very reluctantly, but it does start. After I started, I felt that the car was shaking, the check light came on. Previously, my check light came on, but it didn’t bother me much, because after a certain period of time it went out on its own and that was it. Today the check light first came on - the car was working, shaking, then the check flashed, blinked 9 times and turned the car off. I waited a minute, tried again to get the car in, it started right away, the check light didn’t light up at first, then it came on again, it was on continuously for about 10 seconds, then it blinked again, blinked 9 times and turned off the car again. I performed such dances for 10 minutes, I didn’t count how many times I did it, after this time I spat. I went to the bus stop.

Anyone who has had this happen, please tell me what could be the reason and what is the likelihood that it will heal on its own? Will resetting the terminals from the battery help, maybe there are some other radical methods? Well, ideally, maybe someone could drive up with a device and do a diagnostic?

A car is a complex of complex components and mechanisms. No matter how much automakers improve production technology and increase reliability, no one is immune from sudden breakdowns. This applies to all car enthusiasts. Both the owner of an expensive foreign car and a used VAZ can encounter such a malfunction as engine tripping. Well, let’s look at why the “check” blinks on a car and the engine stalls.

Causes of malfunction

Why does the engine in the VAZ 2107 suffer from injector problems?

If the driver observes signs of malfunction in the operation of the cylinders, it is necessary to diagnose the operation of the power unit. There are five most common reasons:

• problems with the ignition system;
• violation of the formation of the working mixture;
• malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism;
• malfunction of the power steering system;
• failure of the engine itself.

I would like to say right away that there may be many more reasons. And without high-quality diagnostics, it is not always possible to determine exactly what the problem is. But in this article we will discuss the most common faults in most cases, which in 90 percent of cases drivers can detect and fix on their own.

Reason 1: problems with the ignition system

One of the main reasons for engine stalling is a failure in setting up the ignition system. If you listen carefully to how the motor operates, you can hear popping noises accompanied by slight twitching of the motor, which indicates that one of the strokes is missed.

If these signs appear at idle, but after the crankshaft is spun, the engine becomes stable, this indicates early ignition. This means you need to adjust the ignition setting.

If everything is set up well, you can check the spark plugs. In most cases, it is faulty spark plugs that cause the engine to stall on all VAZ models. The best option is to completely replace the kit with a working one.

It is important to note that different spark plugs are suitable for different engines. For example, you need to pay attention to the heat rating and other important design features. In rare situations, when it is not possible to urgently change the spark plugs, but you have to drive, you can temporarily clean what you have and make sure that the gap is set correctly.

Often, at the same time as the spark plugs, the spark plug wires also become unusable. Therefore, they also need to be checked and, if necessary, replaced.

It happens that the engine starts to stall after rain. This may indicate problems with the explosives. To diagnose, you need to start the engine in the dark and inspect the high-voltage wires.

If a spark appears, this indicates that the insulation is broken. You can temporarily solve the problem by wrapping the sparkling area with electrical tape. But this solution is temporary until the nearest auto store!

Sometimes the car starts to jerk only after warming up. It starts and warms up reliably. This may indicate that there is a problem with the ignition coils.

Reason 2: violation of the formation of the working mixture

If the ignition system works like a clock, but the problem still remains, it’s time to pay attention to the mixture formation system. Perhaps it is not entering the cylinder. Or for some reason the fuel mixture does not want to ignite. The fact is that only at certain proportions of air and fuel does a spark lead to ignition. A lean or rich mixture will not burn. The engine begins to operate unstably when cold or warm, at idle or under load.

The problem could be quite simple: a dirty air filter. Often it is enough just to replace it with a new one, and the car begins to please its owner again.

Fuel sometimes begins to flow in excess quantities. This may indicate that the injector nozzles are starting to overflow. This means it’s time to check the operation of the entire injector.

When depressurization occurs, excess air can enter the system, which leads to a lean fuel mixture. Air congestion is also caused by the fact that the operation of the vacuum brake booster is disrupted.

Reason 3: failure of the engine itself

In order for the engine to operate stably and the working mixture to be burned as efficiently as possible, the cylinders must be well sealed during the stroke. If the operation of the cylinder-piston group or gas distribution mechanism inside the engine is damaged, this can lead to problems in the operation of the gas distribution system, which leads to partial depressurization.

If the piston rings are stuck or completely destroyed, if the piston itself is damaged, if scuffs or cracks appear on the cylinder walls, or if the valves of the gas distribution mechanism are burnt out, all this can lead to the fact that the piston simply will not be able to properly compress the combustible mixture.

To diagnose a malfunction, compression is measured in all cylinders. If the compression indicator drops in only one of them, it will be enough to pour a little oil there and take the measurement again. When the compression rises, you can judge about piston problems. If there is no change in the compression level, then the valve has burned out.

Sometimes the cause of low compression is incorrect valve adjustment. It would be a good idea to check the condition of the rocker or hydraulic compensator. A malfunction can result in the valve simply not fitting tightly to the seat.

Sometimes, to eliminate the problem, it is enough to correct the general adjustments of the gas distribution mechanism. For example, it is important to monitor the valve timing settings.

Diagnostic methods

When you find out that the motor is not working, you should diagnose it. This is the only way you can find out which cylinder failed and why. You can do this yourself, or go to a car service center. There the engine will be checked using a computer. However, most often you will be able to find out on your own why the engine is tripping. However, if there is a cylinder failure, and the reason is a decrease in compression, you should find a competent specialist who will solve your problem.

Act one. We find the cylinder that failed. To do this, we diagnose the engine after it starts. Be extremely careful when performing this work. Turn the ignition key, the hood should be open. Let's listen to the sounds coming from the engine compartment

Pay attention to how the engine works. Now, one by one, we disconnect the explosive wires that go to the spark plugs.

If you disable a cylinder that is working properly, the engine will run rough. If a cylinder fails after the spark plug is disconnected, the power unit will operate without changes.

How else can you perform diagnostics? We do not touch the explosive wires. We simply turn off the chips one by one that control the fuel supply from the injectors to the cylinders. If you disconnect the chip, but the motor runs without changes, it means that this cylinder has failed.

Act two. We carry out diagnostics of explosive wires, as well as spark plugs. First of all, you should disconnect the wire and carry out an inspection. Is the insulation damaged? This indicates that the problem is in the BB wire. Then we check whether the conductive core is intact. Did you find that it has kinks or is burnt out? This means that a breakdown or internal resistance may occur. To measure it, use a multimeter. The data obtained must satisfy the acceptable readings. Otherwise, current will not flow normally to the spark plug.

Did you find out that everything is fine with the wire? Then we unscrew and diagnose the spark plug.

Is the spark plug base or its electrodes deformed or do they have carbon deposits on them? A new spark plug needs to be installed. If everything is fine with it, then the reason for the engine tripping is not a cylinder failure.

Act three. We determine how much air penetrates the cylinder. If it is not enough, then the fuel mixture will be over-rich, which means the engine will start to stall. The air supply system must not be depressurized. To check whether this is so, you should shut off the intake pipe, and then use a compressor to supply air into the cylinder through a vacuum hose. Supply pressure 0.5–0.7 atmospheres

Pay attention to the sounds you hear when doing this. Is there a hissing sound? This indicates that the air supply system is leaking.

How else can you diagnose the engine for breakdowns? Examine the air filter. When it becomes clogged, no air can enter the cylinder. We inspect the throttle sensor, as well as the mass air supply sensor. To carry out such diagnostics, you will need a computer; it should be connected to a special connector.

Act four. We find out what volume of the fuel mixture enters the cylinder. For this purpose, you will need to measure the pressure in the fuel system (no more than 7 atmospheres). Use a pressure gauge. It must be connected to the injector ramp. To find out the pressure, you will need to measure it in four different operating modes of the engine: when you turn on the ignition, then at idle speed, at operating speed, when the tube is removed from the pressure regulator and the check valve tube is pinched.

Have you discovered that your blood pressure is insufficient? Most likely, the fuel pump or pressure valve in the fuel system has broken down. Is the pressure normal? Then, perhaps, the injectors are faulty or dirt has accumulated in them. At the end of the test, we diagnose the functioning of the fuel system using special equipment. Most likely, you will find errors in the electronic control unit.

Act five. Using a compression meter, we find out what the compression is in the cylinder. This device should be inserted into the spark plug hole of the cylinder that has failed. Then turn the ignition key and increase engine speed. Record the received data 2-3 times. Did you notice that the compression decreased by 15%? This means that the piston in the cylinder has become unusable. The problem may also be in the piston rings or valves. To determine the cause, you will need to disassemble the motor.

Causes of malfunction

Motorists are wondering: why does the VAZ 2107 engine suffer from injector problems? Many owners of injection VAZ 2107 encountered the fact that the engine began to stall. This malfunction is typical for the entire family of Lada engines. What are the reasons for this effect and where to look for the problem:

• Fuel pump and filter.
• Injectors.
• Spark plugs and high-voltage wires.
• Air filter.
• Throttle.
• valves.
• ECU and sensors.

Incorrect operation of injectors

If your car has distributed or direct injection, then the cause of the engine tripping may be a malfunctioning fuel injector. It may overflow or not inject gasoline into the intake manifold or directly into the combustion chamber.

You can check the performance of the injectors at the stand. In the garage - just swap them and watch the scanner readings for errors.

A stand for testing the performance of fuel injectors when searching for the causes of engine tripping

Solution methods

When the reasons for the throttling of the injection-type VAZ 2107 engine have been determined, you can proceed directly to analyzing options for eliminating the problem. Before you begin, you need to understand that you need to know the design features of the motor.

But the 2107 engine is so simple that even the most inexperienced motorist will figure out what’s going on. So, let's look at how to remove the injector tripping of a VAZ 2107 engine.

Fuel pump and filter

The first place to look for the cause begins with the fuel supply. First, you should check the fuel pump for functionality and whether there are any malfunctions. If this element does not show visible signs of damage, then it is recommended to disassemble it and check it.

Many experienced car enthusiasts advise, after the fuel pump, to start replacing the fuel filter element, since this is where fuel can poorly pass to the injectors. The fuel filter, according to the service documentation, must be changed every 30-35 thousand kilometers.

Injectors

The next place to look for trouble is the injectors themselves. They may be clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel or defective due to their service life, in other words, worn out.

The elements are checked using a special stand, which not only diagnoses the condition, but also cleans the elements. If there is a damaged or worn part, it is better to replace it with a new element.

Spark plugs and high voltage wires

Loss of spark can also lead to engine malfunction. The next unit that needs to be examined is the ignition. First of all, it is recommended to diagnose the spark plugs. To do this, you need to pull them out from the block head and visually inspect them for cracks. Next, it is recommended to clean the spark plugs from accumulated dirt.

It is worth noting that it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the spark plug contacts. If they are in oil or have heat, then the problem is not only the engine tripping.

The next stage of diagnosis is to ring the contacts using a multimeter and measure the gap. In most cases, such diagnostics show that the spark plugs are not suitable for further use and should be replaced.

Another element of the ignition system that directly affects the ignition of the air-fuel mixture is high-voltage wires. How well and economically the motor will work will depend on their condition. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect them for damage and also test them with a multimeter.

Air filter

A dirty air filter can lead to the engine not receiving enough air into the combustion chamber, and accordingly the formation of the air-fuel mixture will be disrupted. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the element, and if it is found that it is dirty, it must be replaced.

Throttle

A dirty throttle valve also prevents the normal flow of air into the engine. To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle it. If you find that dust and other foreign objects have accumulated on the walls, you should clean the part. To do this, you will need a special product or liquid for cleaning carburetors. This operation can be performed by any car enthusiast without any problems.

valves

Burnt-out valves can cause the engine to start to misfire, since a gap is formed between the seat and the exhaust valve, through which exhaust gases flow back into the combustion chamber, thereby disturbing the balance in the air-fuel mixture.

To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle the block head. Often, already burnt-out valves are the first sign of wear on the piston group, and accordingly everything leads to a major overhaul.

ECU and sensors

The last place to look for a problem is the sensors. Thus, failure of one or more measuring elements can cause a tripping effect. Therefore, the motorist will have to check them manually, since the electronic control unit cannot always recognize that the sensor has failed.

The electronic engine control unit can also cause tripping. Accumulated errors or damage in the software will disrupt the operation of the entire system. To diagnose and troubleshoot the problem, it is recommended to contact specialists.

Timing marks

If the camshafts are incorrectly aligned relative to the crankshaft, the engine will triple. The opening and closing timing of the intake and exhaust valves will not coincide with the engine strokes.

For example, at TDC of the piston the valve may be closed, so a flash will occur not only in the cylinder, but in the intake or exhaust manifold, depending on which valve is not closed.

This may occur due to a stretched timing drive. As the chain or belt is used, it stretches. Therefore, the opening or closing angles may shift. This leads to engine tripping.

What to do

If you have checked everything: the spark plugs are in order, there is a spark everywhere, the quality of the mixture is at the right level, you need to check the timing marks. We look at the degree of belt tension. In the case of a chain, how “out” the tensioner is. If the marks are knocked down, then we set them as needed.

Correctly set marks on the camshaft of a 16-valve engine

After troubleshooting, we fix the problem. If the motor stops running, the cause has been found and eliminated.

Main symptoms of a malfunction

The number of working cylinders decreases, and a decrease in power is immediately felt; the car no longer pulls as well as before. Vibration appears even at idle, and a characteristic trembling can be heard from the engine compartment. You may notice that fuel consumption has increased, and the smell of gasoline can be clearly felt in the exhaust gases.

If measures are not taken in time, a major engine overhaul may be required. And it’s not like changing a carburetor; it requires a lot of money and time. A mixture of gasoline and air is burned in the cylinders. If this does not happen in one of the cylinders, then the fuel accumulates and gradually mixes with the oil, going into the crankcase. Because of this, the viscosity deteriorates significantly, and lubrication ceases to have the desired effect. As a result, the piston and rings wear out to a critical state. In addition, the cylinder walls are erased. The VAZ 2107 engine needs repair.

Checking the distributor

And then we will check the VAZ 2106 distributor. The first thing you need to pay attention to is its cover. We remove it and inspect it for damage, cracks, etc. Through cracks, along the path of least resistance, current can flow to ground

Thus, a small voltage will already come to the spark plug or nothing at all will come, and the spark will either be weak or not exist at all

Through cracks, along the path of least resistance, current can flow to ground. Thus, a small voltage will already come to the spark plug or nothing at all will come, and the spark will either be weak or not exist at all.

Next we will talk about the remaining parts of the distributor. And they need to be considered in the event that you do not have a spark at all, or if you have one, but it is very weak. Those. if there is no spark in only one cylinder, then there is a 99% chance that the problem is not in the distributor.

After the lid, we immediately pay attention to the slider. The runner must also be intact and not have any damage. Moreover, you need to inspect it both from above and from below.

And the best way to do this is to unscrew it

Moreover, you need to inspect it both from above and from below. And the best way to do this is to unscrew it.

Next we move on to the breaker contacts. First you need to check the cleanliness of the contacts. If there is any plaque or carbon deposits, it naturally needs to be removed. It would probably be better to do this with zero sandpaper or a needle file. Next, after cleaning, you need to check the gap between the contacts. It should be 0.35-0.45mm

We take a set of probes, find a 0.35 probe and check... We also pay attention to the cams that move the contacts - they should not have significant wear and the existing wear should be the same for all cams

Next you need to pay attention to the wire that is connected to the breaker contacts. It is advisable to move it, tug it in different directions, and make sure that the wire has reliable contact. It may happen that over time, due to vibration and other things, this wire breaks off and, naturally, the contact will either be very weak or disappear altogether

And this is not often paid attention to

It may happen that over time, due to vibration and other things, this wire breaks off and, naturally, the contact will either be very weak or disappear altogether

And this is not often paid attention to

The next logical step is to check the capacitor. The simplest thing is to measure its capacity. It should be within 0.25 µF. But for this, of course, you will need a tester with a capacitance measurement mode. I don’t have this, so I’ll tell you about the second method. We disconnect the capacitor wire and the wire coming from the coil from the distributor breaker and connect a light bulb (12V) between them. Afterwards, turn on the ignition and look at the light bulb - if it is on, it means the capacitor is broken and needs to be replaced. If it doesn’t light up, then everything is fine with the capacitor.

In the same way you can do without a light bulb. Instead of connecting the light bulb, we simply short-circuit the wires with each other, with the ignition on, of course. If it sparks, the capacitor is broken.

Causes of cylinder failure

If the VAZ 2107 engine fails, there may be several reasons for this, and in order to find the fault, you need to perform several actions:

• find the faulty cylinder;
• check the spark plugs;
• inspect the wires, injector, injectors, valves;
• check air leaks into the carburetor;
• check operation hot and cold.

Identifying a failed cylinder is quite simple. When the machine is running, you need to remove the high-voltage wires one by one if a carburetor is installed. At this moment, no current will be supplied to the spark plug and the cylinder will stop working. The injector is simpler in that you don’t need to risk disconnecting the wires; it will be enough to remove the chips responsible for controlling the fuel supply. If nothing changes and the engine continues to operate without changes, the faulty cylinder has been found.

The next step is to check the spark plug. Having unscrewed it, you should carefully inspect it. If there is carbon deposits on it, then because of this the spark will not “break through”. It is a mistake to believe that replacement or simple cleaning will solve the problem. Without finding and eliminating the cause, a new candle will take on the same appearance in a short time.

You need to check for spark. To do this, you need to put a high voltage wire on it and bring the metal end to the engine housing. Next, someone needs to crank the starter several times. If everything is normal, a spark should appear. If it is missing, this may indicate:

• wire break or high resistance;
• failure of the ignition coil;
• malfunction of the electronic control unit;
• failure of the crankshaft position sensor;
• The belt is offset by several teeth.

If the spark is fine, but the car still does not pull, and you can clearly hear that the engine is shaking, the reasons may be the following:

• compression is broken;
• defects have arisen or the rings have worn out;
• problems with injectors;
• abnormal valve operation.

Rich mixture

The engine began to stall and stopped developing maximum power. When cold it may start and stall. In this case, the air-fuel mixture is to blame, where there is a lot of fuel and little oxygen.

It floods the spark plugs with gasoline and they refuse to work. From this you can judge the quality of the fuel mixture. If there is black soot, it is rich, if it is light, it is poor. I wrote about this in detail in other articles, go to the channel, everything is written there, the link was above.

What to do

Look for the reason. There are several possible sources of problems:

• Mass air flow sensor
  . It fails and the ECU receives incorrect readings for preparing the mixture. I wrote how to check it here.
• The second lambda was covered with a “copper basin”
  . There is also a separate article about it.
• In the case of a carburetor, a high level in the float chamber
  .

And so on. There can be many reasons for a rich mixture. If you are interested, I will write a separate article on this topic. Let me know about it in the comments.

Trouble with the engine of a VAZ-2107 car. What to do?

If this problem is not addressed in time, the engine may require major repairs. This action will entail a waste of not only time, but also significant money.

Troubles the engine of a VAZ car. What to do?

The impetus for writing this post was a real repair at the request of a client, which consisted of a simple replacement of the vacuum booster, but isn’t it true that the engine may be tripping for the wrong reasons... In this post I want to consider the main reasons for this most unpleasant phenomenon, as well as methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting repair.

Trouble VAZ engine

Let's start with the signs that the engine is running rough. “Engine trouble” - by this we mean that one or more cylinders are not working. Accordingly, the engine does not develop full power, does not have the necessary traction force, fuel consumption increases... But we all already know this, closer to the point.

Oxygen sensor

Now all cars are equipped with catalysts. For proper operation of the catalyst, a lambda probe is required. This is a special sensor that reads the remaining oxygen, based on the data of which the mixture and ignition are adjusted.

If the lambda probe is faulty, the car may consume more fuel than it should. Also, at the same time, a “check” lights up on the panel. However, the engine may not be tripping. How to solve this problem? Since the new catalyst is very expensive, many simply knock out its “filling” and install a fake instead of an oxygen sensor. This way the ECU will consider that the system is working correctly, and the “check” will no longer light up on the panel.

We look at the spark plugs

Spark plugs are an equally important element in the ignition system and stable operation of the power unit. They need to be inspected and make sure that the spark plugs are free of carbon deposits. Unscrew them from the block head; there should be no cracks or other defects on them. Test the contacts using a multimeter.

Don't forget about high-voltage wires; they are also involved in the process of igniting the fuel-air mixture. Visually assess their condition and call them; this determines how stable the engine will operate. All these nuances directly affect the level of fuel consumption of the car.

High voltage wires

What should you do if, after replacing the spark plug, the “check” flashes and the engine starts again? In such a situation, it can be assumed that the reason lies in the high-voltage wire. It can be checked in two ways:

• Visually. We take out our wire and look at its integrity. The high-voltage element must not contain cracks, cuts or abrasions. Any of these symptoms can provoke a breakdown of the wire, due to which the coil will not be able to transmit a spark even to a known-good spark plug. You can also check the wire in another way. In the dark you need to watch its work. If “crickets” are visible, this indicates that there is a severe breakdown of the insulation.
• Using a multimeter. This is a more accurate way of diagnosis. To measure the resistance of a high-voltage wire, the multimeter is switched to ohmmeter mode. Then, using probes, you need to touch both sides of the wire. Next, the device will display information. The resistance of high-voltage wires should be no more than 10 kOhm. If the indicator is higher than normal, this indicates the presence of a breakdown.

Possible causes of malfunction

If the engine of a VAZ-2107 fails, there may be several reasons for this. In order to troubleshoot the problem, you should perform the following steps:

1. Determine which cylinder is faulty.
2. Check all spark plugs for functionality.
3. Inspect all wires, injectors and valves.
4. Check how the air intake into the carburetor works.
5. Check the operation of both hot and cold engines.

Finding which cylinder has failed is as easy as shelling pears. To do this, while the engine is running, remove the high-voltage wires one by one. But this can only be done if the engine on the VAZ-2107 (carburetor) is misfiring. Of course, it will not be possible to find the cause of the breakdown, but it will undoubtedly be possible to determine the non-functioning cylinder.

As soon as you remove the high-voltage wire that you need, voltage will no longer be supplied to the spark plug, and therefore the cylinder will stop working.

The next stage of work is to check the spark plug for functionality. First, after removing the candle, you need to carefully inspect it. If carbon deposits are clearly visible on the spark plug, then most likely that is why the current is not getting through. By the way, many car enthusiasts believe that it is enough to simply replace the spark plug with a new one. But in fact, in this way the problem will be eliminated only for a while. It is necessary to find the reason why the candle acquired this appearance.

To do this, you need to check for a normal spark. A high-voltage wire is put on the spark plug, after which it is brought with its metal end to the engine housing. After this, the starter turns over several times. If the spark plug is normal, this movement should produce a good spark. If the spark does not appear, the following reasons are possible:

• high-voltage wire breakage or breakdown;
• the ignition coil does not work;
• the electronic control unit turned out to be faulty;
• crankshaft position sensor is broken;
• The belt has moved a few teeth.

But if the spark turns out to be in perfect order, but the engine still stalls, the reasons may be as follows:

• defects or wear of rings;
• compression failure;
• injector problems;
• incorrect valve operation.

The cylinder may not work because the injectors have failed. Most often, this happens due to long-term driving on fuel that is not of the highest quality, or if “makeshift” devices were used to clean the fuel system.

In addition, the VAZ-2107 engine may also misfire due to the fact that the injectors are simply clogged. In order to eliminate this malfunction, you just need to clean them thoroughly.

Brief summary

Whatever the possible reason, if the engine of a VAZ 2107 does not pull, it is necessary to identify and eliminate the malfunction as quickly as possible. After all, ignoring the problem can lead to a much more serious breakdown and costly repairs.

Hello, auto mechanics! Help me solve the problem: the engine in a VAZ 2107 dies when it’s hot. I have a 2008 Seven, in good condition. Sometimes the engine runs normally, but sometimes the “Check Engine” light comes on for no reason and the engine starts to stall. My car has an injection power system. If you turn off the engine and then start it again, the problem disappears. But not for long. I want to completely get rid of the problem. Tell me where to look first.

Look at the spark plugs, the module and, as a last resort, the pump!

I looked at the spark plugs, didn’t find any carbon deposits, the pump is also working, I haven’t tinkered with the ignition module yet

There can be many reasons for this: ignition module, faulty spark plugs, clogged injectors, unadjusted valves

Thanks, I'll take a look! I hope you won't need to go for diagnostics.

Buy a BC so you don’t have to go to diagnostics for trifles.

Why does the VAZ 2107 engine stall when hot? I am familiar with this problem firsthand. In fact, there can be many reasons why the power unit of a car begins to trip, as well as ways to eliminate them. Fortunately, the injection engine of the “seven” is quite simple in design, so you can figure out this issue without qualified help. Let's look at everything in order.

Causes of “triple tripping” of a VAZ car engine

• Incorrect ignition timing
• Air leak in the vacuum brake booster system
• Spark plug fault
• High voltage wire breakdown
• Capacitor failure
• Loss of tightness in the intake manifold area (intake manifold, carburetor)
• Burnout of valve, piston
• Broken piston rings
• Incorrect valve adjustment
• Destruction and wear of rockers (valve levers)
• Cylinder head gasket failure
• Wear, hardening, destruction of valve stem seals
• Very low fuel quality
• Incorrect carburetor adjustment
• Wear of distributor shaft, rotary plate bearing
• Loss of tightness of the membrane of the vacuum ignition advancer
• I do not take into account the use of spark plugs that are not suitable for the engine and other “faults”.

Perhaps not all the reasons, but what I could remember, if you have anything to add, then write in the comments.

Important!

You can determine a bad cylinder using a simple, old and reliable method - one by one removing the high-voltage wire from the spark plug. You have to be very careful here, because you can get electrocuted! To carry out this manipulation more safely, you need to stand on a dielectric (rubber, wood), take a clean, dry rag, remove it by the wire, and not by the cap, and do not touch the car body at this time. It is very easy to check; use a choke to increase the idle speed to 1500 rpm and remove the caps from the spark plugs one by one. If the speed drops when the cap is removed, then the cylinder is working; if there is no difference, then the cylinder is not working.

Well, now let's talk about each of the reasons in more detail.

1. Incorrect ignition timing. With this option, I personally know not a tripping, but a seemingly slamming of the engine (missing), which is accompanied by “bouncing” of the entire engine. This is especially noticeable at idle; as the speed increases, the skips disappear. Most likely, your ignition is set too early; this may also be indicated by jerky cranking of the engine by the starter when starting.
2. Quite often, the cause of engine tripping in a VAZ of all models (except for the VAZ 2101, which does not have a vacuum brake booster) is a loss of tightness in the hose, diaphragm, or valve. As a result, excess air appears in the intake manifold, which leads to over-leaning of the mixture and misignition of the mixture in the cylinder, as a result of which the spark plug may become wet and stop igniting the compressed mixture.
3. A faulty spark plug is one of the most common causes of engine misfiring. There is nothing special to tell here, it is important to remember and replace spark plugs regularly, and the presence of a spark on an inverted spark plug at atmospheric pressure does not indicate its full functionality, because ignition occurs under much more difficult conditions (Za Rulem magazine, dating back to Soviet times).
4. At this point I will combine the breakdown of the high-voltage wire and the capacitor on the contact ignition system. A wire breakdown can be determined by replacing all the wires, as well as the capacitor. You can also try to determine the breakdown of the wire by looking at them in complete darkness; if there is a breakdown somewhere, you will see flashes.
5. Loss of tightness in the collector area, as a rule, does not occur on its own. More often this happens due to incorrect assembly or bad gaskets. I also had a case where they complained about trimming at idle. The reason was the elimination of the vacuum ignition advancer and the unplugged vacuum tube on the carburetor.
6. As a rule, when a piston or valve burns out, the cylinder stops working altogether or does not work for a long time. It can only be determined by measuring compression and opening the engine.
7. Breakage or sticking of piston rings is also not a very common occurrence, because a number of conditions are necessary for its occurrence. You can check it by measuring the compression; if it turns out to be low, then eliminate cylinder head malfunctions in a simple way - pour a little oil into the cylinder; if the compression increases, then there is a malfunction in the piston system.
8. With incorrect valve adjustment, everything is already clear - any valve may not open or close completely. Proper valve adjustment can cure this problem. Rocker wear can cause a similar problem. The valve stops opening correctly and the cylinder stops working.
9. Well, now let’s briefly go over the problems that may arise with the distributor. Quite often, on not new machines, wear of both the shaft itself and the bushings in which it rotates occurs, as a result of which it becomes impossible to establish an adequate gap between the contacts. The same thing happens if the swing plate bearing is worn out. Also, misfires can occur due to depressurization in the vacuum ignition timing advancer, where the membrane may fail.

All answers

In fact, Volodya seems to have said everything and already asked. The only thing is that since the vehicle says that replacing the spark plugs/wires helped for a while, it means that gasoline is most likely being supplied, but either not as needed, or the problem is already in the cylinder (valve/ring).

Watching the operation of the injector, measuring compression, and the appearance of the spark plugs has not yet been canceled as a diagnostic sign.

Oh, yes... and in the future, it is advisable not to reveal an inoperative cylinder by pulling off the explosive wires, because that’s exactly what I understood from the text.

The computer will only show the time of its opening, while it may well not spray gasoline, but literally pour it. Accordingly, such a mixture will burn poorly, and the candle will quickly fail. The last spark plug change didn't help at all?

PS What kind of “hog” is this? Merc in the 140th body or what?

Good day everyone. The problem is that cylinder 4 is not working. I found out by removing the caps from the spark plugs. From 1 to 3 cylinders, the speed drops, and on 4 it does not respond at all. I measured the compression. 10; 9.5; 10; 9.5. Here. I measured the wires with a tester, resistance 4-6 kOhm. (normal) I changed the spark plug with the third cylinder, the result was the same. I haven’t yet checked the spark on the unscrewed spark plug; I was confused by the fact that when removing the cap from the spark plug, a couple of clicks were heard, as I thought it was from a spark breaking through, but I’ll check it one of these days to ease my conscience. Worth BSZ. I tried to change the cover from the old contact one. I started it, heard a crackling sound, turned it off, it turned out that the contact of the slider was hitting the contacts on the cover. Do not have another one. But visually, there is deposits on contacts 1, 2 and 3 of cylinders, it is across the entire width of the contact, in the plane of rotation of the runner, and on contact 4 of cylinders such deposits are only half the width of the contact. Visually the contacts are uniform, well, in the sense, identical. by size.

So, you press the brake, the engine holds the speed for a couple of seconds and it drops by about 200. You pump the brake pedal, the revolutions jump from 800 to 1500. This happened before, but they jumped to a maximum of 1200. I checked the VUT (pressed the pedal, started it, the pedal went further.).

My plans for now are to pull out the VUT hose that goes to the engine intake manifold, turn it off, start the engine and also pull off the cap from the spark plug. there will be changes or not.

Anyone who may have had a similar problem, please tell me what else can be checked.

And the gas consumption of 16 liters in the city and 12 on the highway is not at all pleasing. Previously it was 12 and 9.5, respectively.

Even when releasing the gas, you can hear dull pops in the muffler.

Other faults

Other breakdowns that are caused by the engine running hot include:

• Faulty valves
• Worn air filter
• Dirty throttle valve
• Failure of one of the sensors or interruptions in the operation of the computer

You will have to do a lot of work to find the problem area in the car system. But, by the method of elimination, I am sure that you will cope with the task in the shortest possible time. Good luck in all your endeavors.

Valve clearances

Many may argue that this cannot be the cause of tripling. But there was a case in my practice when a car arrived to us, without an ECU, an on-board computer with a carburetor - a VAZ 2107. The power unit was severely troubled only when “cold”. After warming up the engine ran smoothly.

All systems were checked and no comments were found. We were the same skeptics. But we still decided to check the gaps - the dipstick did not want to fit in. We set the correct gap, the engine began to run smoothly in any condition - cold, hot.

What to do

If the engine is not equipped with hydraulic compensators, then you need to check the thermal clearances of the valves. For the future, in such power units it is necessary to adjust the valves after 15-20 thousand mileage.

This is especially true for the use of HBO.
In this case, you can get a burnt valve and repair the cylinder head. In case of engine tripping, you need to check the thermal clearance of the valves. On VAZ 2107 engines, the gap is checked with a feeler gauge

Injector VAZ2107, troits at idle.

#1 AlexTour

• New
• 5 messages
• Car make: VAZ21074i
• From: from the underworld

Maybe someone has encountered such a problem, read similar topics, but there’s nothing there at all. The problem is this: You start it up, it runs at low speed, it immediately starts running, CHEK lights up, error code: misfires in 1 and 4, after a few minutes of working with the CHEK light, the brain turns off 1 and 4, and after twitching a little, sometimes the engine stalls at all. Okay, I reset CHEK, start it up, but don’t let it work at low speeds, keep it at 1500 rpm, the tripping is almost not noticeable and CHEK doesn’t light up, at rpm the control unit’s misfire detection algorithm doesn’t work, but as soon as I release the throttle the situation repeats. Driving with the trigger to the floor is not an option, although the engine thrust has not decreased much until the brains turn off the faulty cylinders when you are standing at a traffic light and not accelerating like a fool. The first thing I did was replace the spark plugs, no result, replaced the armor plates, fuck, replaced the ignition module, nothing. I washed the injectors, checked the sensor on the gear pulley, the pulley itself is working properly and is screwed tightly. WTF?? Are your brains really glitchy? Here is the link to the video

#2 Practitioner

• Car make: GFL1100, VAZ 11173,)
• From: Novosibirsk, Krasnoobsk

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It is necessary to check the grounding of the controller itself so that it is reliable.

You need to check the compression in the cylinders.

If everything is normal, then check the valve timing.

Check injectors, balance.

If everything is fine at this step, then check the air intake system after the mass air flow sensor for air leaks.

#3 AlexTour

• Car make: VAZ21074i
• From: from the underworld

The ECU is tied to ground dead, the compression is 11-12 atmospheres, the injectors, as I already said, were cleaned. Do you think the valves are to blame?

#4 Practitioner

• Car make: GFL1100, VAZ 11173,)
• From: Novosibirsk, Krasnoobsk

View Garage
The ECU is tied to ground dead, the compression is 11-12 atmospheres, the injectors, as I already said, were cleaned. Do you think the valves are to blame?

So it’s not difficult to check the valves, fill it with oil and check the compression again. Don't forget to check the suction

#5 AlexTour

• Car make: VAZ21074i
• From: from the underworld

So it’s not difficult to check the valves, fill it with oil and check the compression again. Don't forget to check the suction

I've already tried it, the compression is unchanged, the same about the suction, I checked all the pipes and the vacuum reservoir, checked the fuel pump, everything is normal.

#6 Practitioner

• Car make: GFL1100, VAZ 11173,)
• From: Novosibirsk, Krasnoobsk

View Garage
Already tried it, the compression is unchanged, the same about the choke, checked all the pipes and the vacuum reservoir, checked the fuel pump, everything is normal.

How did you check the pump?

#7 AlexTour

• Car make: VAZ21074i
• From: from the underworld

How did you check the pump?

There is a special mark on the injector rail, like a tire, which can be checked with a regular monometer.

No spark on cylinders 1 and 4 of the VAZ 2114: troubleshooting

The reasons why cylinders 1 and 4 of the VAZ 2114 do not work may be:

1. Candles.
2. Wires.
3. Ignition module.
4. Control block.

We talked about how to check the spark plugs above, so let's move on to the wires. To check, you will need a tester (multimeter), with which you should check all high-voltage wires (you should measure in ohmmeter mode).

The resistance of all four wires should be approximately the same and not exceed 200 kOhm. If the resistance is significantly higher than specified or the resistance of some wires is very different from the resistance of others, then they should be replaced with similar ones.

Checking high-voltage wires with a tester

If the wires are in good condition, we proceed to checking the module.

To check it, you should use a self-diagnostic scanner connected to a laptop or smartphone (the connection can be via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or a USB cable).

The scanner displays the test results on the screen of the mobile device using standardized codes.

Auto diagnostic scanner

The most common of them (indicating that the ignition module is damaged) are the following:

• P3000, P3001, P3002, P3003, P3004 - no spark in the cylinders (the last digit is equal to the cylinder number). In our case there should be signals P3001 and P3004;
• P0351 - a rupture occurred inside the ignition module on the windings responsible for cylinders 1 and 4;
• P0352 - the same thing, but the break occurred on the windings of cylinders 2 and 3.

If the above errors are detected as a result of the scan, then the module is burnt out and should be replaced with a new one (since it is not a repairable component).