How to remove the window lift motor of a VAZ 2114

Such a detail as the VAZ 2114 window regulator is the key to not only a comfortable, but also a safe trip in any weather. If it breaks down in rain or snow, the driver must stop driving on the road and carry out repair work or call a tow truck. Today we will talk about why window regulators break and how to completely replace them if necessary.

Window regulator VAZ 2114

Replacing the window regulator on VAZ 2114 and 2115

Most Lada Samara cars, such as VAZ 2114 and 2115, had electric windows installed from the factory.
Of course, they have a lot of advantages, and they are much more convenient than mechanical ones. But at the same time, if a mechanism or motor fails, it simply won’t be possible to close or open the car window. To replace the power window assembly on a VAZ 2114 and 2115, you will need the following tool:

10 mm head
Ratchet or crank
Extension

How to remove the window regulator assembly on a VAZ 2114 and 2115

The first step is to get to the fastenings of the entire mechanism, and to do this, we remove the front door trim. When we have dealt with this, unscrew the two bolts securing the door glass to the trapezoid bar.

They are tightened with quite a considerable torque, although they have a small thread diameter, so it is most convenient to do this with a head.

Now it’s worth looking at the remaining fastenings of the mechanism to the door. The photo below clearly shows all the window lift nuts.

Then you can unscrew them all one by one. First there are three that secure the motor:

Then one at the top in close proximity to the glass:

And one almost at the very bottom:

When all the fasteners are loosened, you need to disconnect the power plug from the window lift motor. After which you can carefully remove the entire trapezoid from the studs and remove the mechanism through the largest technological hole in the door.

And the final result will look something like this.

Now you can buy a new window regulator, the price of which is about 1000 rubles assembled, and replace it. The installation is performed in the reverse order, and no difficulties arise during this work.

If the fault was in the motor itself, which happens most often, then the electric motor can be replaced. It costs about 600 rubles, and is just as easy to change.

Source

How to remove the window regulator on a VAZ 2114, step-by-step description with photos

Window lifter - this mechanism is found in almost any car, depending on the car, it can be either a mechanical type (With a handle for adjusting the position of the glass) or an electric one (In this case, the handle is removed and a button is placed together with it), in addition, we immediately note the fact that the window lifter and the glass itself are two different things (some people just confuse it) and thanks to it you can adjust the position of the glass in the car (raise it higher or lower it).

To carry out the procedure for replacing the window lifter on the door, you will have to stock up on: Various types of screwdrivers, as well as a set of wrenches, if you have an extension cord with union heads, then you can use it, and thin pliers or pliers may also be needed, and if you have them If you have one, be sure to take them!

Key repair

If the driver is convinced that the cause of the malfunction is in the button, he can fix the problem himself as follows:

The first step is to disassemble the door panel.
Then the connector is disconnected, the fastener holding the button board, on which 4 contacts are located, is unscrewed. If they are oxidized, they need to be cleaned.
It would also be useful to inspect the springs and check the functioning of all elements.
The next step is to apply conductive glue to the surface of the rubber shell at the point of contact between the contacts and the printed circuit board.

When it dries, all components are assembled and installed back.

Where is the door window lift located?

On cars of the Samara 2 family, different types of window lifters are installed, namely, there are electric ones in the front, and mechanical ones in the back (If the car is in a top configuration, then there are electric ones in the back), both types are hidden in the door itself and you won’t see them without removing the trim, so for For clarity, in the photo below, the trim was removed from the front door of the car, and the window regulator itself is indicated by a red arrow in this photo.

When do you need to replace your door window regulator?

If we are talking about an electric window lifter, then as a rule, when it fails, the glass stops going up and down when you press the corresponding button, in addition, on some cars (you most likely have already paid attention to this) it happens that the glass somehow goes down (Slowly ) and almost does not rise (you have to help with your hand), this also indicates that the window lifter has become unusable and requires replacement, but by the way, in some cases, due to the fact that the glass does not rise and fall poorly, it may not even be the window lifter itself that is to blame glass, it’s just that over time its fastening weakens and thus the glass becomes skewed, which is why problems occur with lowering and raising the glass on the car, but as for mechanical window lifters, everything is simple here, if by rotating the handle the glass has ceased to be adjusted, then the window regulator itself has failed and requires replacement.

Common faults

Old and new mechanism
One of the most common malfunctions is gear wear. Usually plastic is used, which wears out quickly over time. A symptom of this problem is a rumble and crackling sound that is heard when the glass is raised or lowered.

Also, the automatic switch on the power windows may burn out, which is why the inclusion will not work. Also, problems may arise with the rear doors. They either stop working altogether or respond to pressing a key from the main unit, but not on the doors themselves. Check current continuity.

The electric motor may also fail. To fix it, you will need to check the voltage in it and the wiring. Mechanical damage to the guides may also occur.

How to replace the door window lifter on a VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115?

Note! The window lifter on both the rear door and the front door is replaced almost identically, although there are small nuances, but you don’t even have to pay attention to this, and therefore if you learn how to replace the window lifter at the front, then you can also replace it on the back door and vice versa, but there is just one But! The window lifter can be replaced both with the glass removed from the door and with the glass installed (How you do it is up to you, if you don’t want to remove the glass, then in this case you can simply fix it with a screwdriver, but if suddenly the door moves a lot, then the glass may fall and break, but this won’t happen to you with the glass removed), if you still want to remove it, then in this case read the article entitled: “Replacing glass on a VAZ”, if you don’t want to remove the glass and are sure that it will not fall, then start reading the article; in it we just described the process of replacing a window lifter with the glass installed on the car door!

1) Let's start with the front doors, but even if you replace the power windows only on the rear doors (And this is point 2), then still study point 1, because they are interconnected and from all these points you will understand more than just reading one of them, in general, before replacing, it doesn’t matter which door, but you will need to remove the trim from it, because the mechanism is located inside the door and without removing the trim you simply won’t get to it (For information on how to remove the trim, read the article: “Replacing front door on the car" points 1-8), after the trim is removed, disconnect the wire block and the connector that go to the window regulator (see photo 1), then remove all the nuts (there are only three of them) that secure the mechanism itself to door (see photo 2) and then unscrew the two bolts securing the window lifter slider to the glass frame itself (see photo 3), when the bolts are unscrewed, lift the glass to the very top if you have not removed it and fix it in this position (You can Use a screwdriver to fix it, see photo 4, or you can ask an assistant to hold the glass in the upper position).

ESP diagram VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

1 – mounting block
2 – ignition switch
3 – right front door power window switch
4 – right rear door power window switch
5 – electric window motor reducer of the right front door
6 – electric window motor reducer of the right rear door
7 – electric window motor reducer of the left rear door
8 – electric window motor reducer of the left front door
9 – left rear door power window switch
10 – left front door power window switch
11 – relay for turning on electric windows
A – to power supplies
B – to the instrument lighting switch
C – conventional numbering of plugs in power window blocks

The power window relay for this car is located in the mounting block. On the left under the panel in the fuse box on the additional connector.

Repair, operation and replacement of window regulators on Lada Samara cars

Most Lada Samara cars, such as VAZ 2114 and 2115, had electric windows installed from the factory. Of course, they have a lot of advantages, and they are much more convenient than mechanical ones. But at the same time, if a mechanism or motor fails, it simply won’t be possible to close or open the car window.

To replace the power window assembly on a VAZ 2114 and 2115, you will need the following tool:

10 mm head
Ratchet or crank
Extension

How to remove the window regulator assembly on a VAZ 2114 and 2115

They are tightened with quite a considerable torque, although they have a small thread diameter, so it is most convenient to do this with a head.

Now it’s worth looking at the remaining fastenings of the mechanism to the door. The photo below clearly shows all the window lift nuts.

Then you can unscrew them all one by one. First there are three that secure the motor:

Then one at the top in close proximity to the glass:

And one almost at the very bottom:

And the final result will look something like this.

If the fault was in the motor itself, which happens most often, then the electric motor can be replaced. It costs about 600 rubles, and is just as easy to change.

Don’t know how to replace the window regulator of a VAZ 2114? Our article describes what types of these devices exist, the main causes of breakdowns and much more. The recommendations are suitable for repairing almost any car belonging to the Lada Samara family, if the windows do not work on it.

Glass closer Pandora DWM

Connection diagram for the passenger door button in series through a duplicate button on the driver's door. Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are always normally closed. When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down). The 30th contact of a 5-pin relay, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, is constantly shorted to contact 88, which gives us the necessary negative contact (works like a switch). If voltage is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 88 and connected to contact 87. Contact 86 of the winding is connected to ground.

Design and types of window lifters

The window regulator of the VAZ 2115, VAZ 2114 and other models of cars in this series can be of two main types. The mechanisms on the VAZ 2115 or 2114 do not have any fundamental differences from other models of the family.

The first of them is collapsible. They consist of two parts, a motor and a trapezoid, which are connected with fine thread bolts. If necessary, you can replace one of these parts while leaving the other. Previously, this was the most profitable option, since repairing a window regulator was much cheaper. Most often the trapeze had to be removed and replaced.

But in recent years it has been quite difficult to find high-quality trapeze on sale. Almost everything that is in stores lasts a month or two, and then again requires replacement. Therefore, collapsible device models are no longer so popular.

The second option is non-separable models. They are solid and do not allow the replacement of individual parts. On the other hand, a new non-removable factory window regulator for the VAZ 2113 and other models can last up to 3-5 years without requiring replacement. And with adequate use, even longer.

In addition to these types, devices are also distinguished by their operating principle. These are mechanical and electric windows of the VAZ 2114 and other models. The latter are also divided into lever, cable and rack and pinion. Their main difference is how the impulse of movement from the engine is transmitted to the plate holding the glass. This can be done by cable, lever or using a rack system.

Removal instructions

If you don’t know how to remove the window lifter handle, don’t despair, it’s easy to do. Before removing the mechanism, you need to remove the trim from the door. Then be sure to disconnect the wire block and the power window connector. Then remove the three nuts that secure the mechanism to the door. Next are two bolts that secure the lift and the glass itself.

Dismantling process

Then, lift the glass to the very top and fix it, you can use a screwdriver or ask someone to hold it. But it’s better to pull it out, because otherwise there is a risk that the glass may break.

To completely remove the mechanism, you need to additionally remove the door handle. To do this, unscrew its two screws and push the handle inside the door. Then, you will need to disconnect the rubber holder that holds the rod on the handle. Once you're done with this, you can pull out the handle, and then the window regulator itself through the same hole. Now you know how to remove the window handle and the entire mechanism.

Serial connection - diagram

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door. We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Installation in parallel will result in short-circuiting during lifting and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.

When using trigger buttons, connect all ESP motors only through a relay. When using a conventional door closer, relays are also needed, since they are not in the long-press closer block and all the current flows through the buttons and wires from them.

Video “Replacing a power window”

In this video, a car mechanic explains how to replace the electrical mechanism on popular VAZ models (author - In Sandro's garage).

If a problem with the window regulator on a VAZ-2114 occurs while the car is moving, and the driver himself cannot correct the situation on the spot, you need to call a tow truck. The movement of a car when the window has stopped going up or down due to a breakdown, from the point of view of traffic regulations, threatens the safety of passengers and the driver himself. Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? There are many reasons: lowering is difficult because the fuse has blown, there is a malfunction in the door, etc. This article contains information about the types of failures of window regulators on the VAZ-2114, about methods for adjusting and dismantling the mechanism.

Installation Features

The connection diagram is the opposite of the above method of removing the device and, in general, has no special nuances. If you have completed the removal operation, then installing the VAZ 2114 electric windows will not be a problem.

The only nuance that you should not forget about is the window lifter guides. Before completing the connection, it is better to lubricate them - then the mechanism will last longer.

The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work

There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.

The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.

The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:

Damage to the components of the control unit.
The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
Disconnecting the power supply.
The control button has stopped performing its functions.

Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.

Situations

There are situations where power windows stop working under repeated circumstances. For example, after driving on a dirt road or bumps, the mechanism begins to move the glass in jerks. When opening the casing, it is sometimes discovered that the wire has come out of the chip or from the connector, or after visiting a car wash, incidents begin with the glass. Perhaps the depressurization of the insulation contributed to the fact that moisture penetrated into the electrical components of the system and short circuits or disruption of communication between contacts began.

Chafing of the insulating layer of the wiring is one of the most common causes of problems with ESP. To facilitate diagnosis, it is worth observing what causes the standard fuse F6 to blow.

If this moment is the activation of the lift itself, then, most likely, this place is somewhere under the door trim.
If then, when you turn on the ignition, then it is worth checking the insulation of the wires from the door to the safety assembly block.

One of the weak points is where the bundle of wires goes from under the hood to the door trim.

Broken power window button

Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? A very common reason for this is that its buttons fail. If the mechanism begins to work at a slow speed after a certain time, the plates inside it may have oxidized. This caused a breakdown in contact: it appears intermittently or disappears completely.

It makes sense to check the version with a broken button, replacing it with a working one. Just swap them. The part is dismantled using a knife or screwdriver. Use the tip to pry it from below and remove it from the chip.

If after installation it turns out that the non-working window regulator began to move the glass, and the working one began to move, on the contrary, then it is worth purchasing a new part and replacing it. If the problem is not with the button, then you need to continue searching for the causes of the breakdown.

One of the reasons for the breakdown of the glass door lift mechanism may be that the relay does not work or the fuse has blown.

Find the safety block under the hood of the car.
According to the diagram, determine the location of the relay itself and the fuse, which make up the links of the electric glass lifting mechanism (ESM) chain.
The legs of the elements must be clean, with a pronounced metallic sheen.
If traces of oxidation, dirt deposits, etc. are found, you need to clean them off. Mechanically or using special means, for example, WD-40.
You can check the relay for functionality in the same way as a button. The working element should be removed from another unit and mounted into the ESP system.
If newly installed parts fail again within a short period of time, then the problem is in the wiring itself.

A breakdown may occur with the lift motor. It either burns out completely, or the worm mechanism inside it fails. In the latter case, the device makes a characteristic sound when the button is pressed, but the glass remains motionless.

The reason for the breakdown of the ESP may be that it has a common power source and the external lighting. And if the fuse for the foglights is blown out, the window regulator will not work.

The principle of operation of a car window lifter

The ability to switch between raising and lowering the windows is made possible by equipping the electric motor with a reverse power system. Structurally, the motion vector is changed either using a relay or directly through a switch. Window lifters of the latest generations are more complex, which is caused by the need to increase the safety of their use and increase comfort. Functions of modern mechanisms for automatically raising/lowering windows:

uniform movement in one of the directions to the end point;
discrete movement (for example, an inch) in one direction or another;
slow mechanism locking;
return movement (used to have time to remove part of the body from the window opening).

The window regulator control unit is the brains of the device, which includes, in addition to the control microcircuit, an electric motor relay, switches and electrical wiring connecting the control unit to the door lock and the top hatch cover. If you activate the window lift mode with one touch or command, it will move in the specified direction. As soon as the switch is moved to the reverse position, the motor will stop. The same will happen if the power window ECU receives a corresponding signal from the door circuit board.

The main problem with using the one-touch mode is the high likelihood of injury to a child who is leaning out of the window, even partially. The return mode helps prevent such situations. To do this, another switch is mounted to the electric motor armature, the task of which is to transmit a special signal to the ECU with a frequency proportional to the rotation speed of the power unit. If, while closing the window, the computer detects a decrease in the engine speed below a certain value, it will immediately issue a command to change the direction of movement of the glass until it is completely lowered.

The control unit is able to calculate the current position of the window based on counting the number of received pulses. This information is used to prevent reversal of the window movement if it is completely closed or, conversely, lowered. However, the ECU must know the initial position of the window. To do this, an initialization operation is performed, which consists of turning on the electric motor until the glass is completely opened, after which the reverse operation is performed - closing it. Without initialization, the power windows will stop working in one-touch mode.

Some models of window regulators are equipped with Hall sensors, which make it easier to determine the current speed of glass movement. Another common way to control speed is to monitor the amount of current consumed by the motor, which is proportional to the speed of rotation of the motor shaft. The “slow blocking” mode is used if it is necessary to completely block the vehicle by issuing a command sent remotely from an infrared remote control. This function uses the connection between the power window/sunroof control unit and the door lock. The order of operation is as follows: windows, hatch, doors. If necessary, it is possible to activate the security mode - in this case, the windows will close one at a time - this reduces the instantaneous current consumption (compared to simultaneous closing).

Dismantling the old unit

If the electrical elements have been more or less decided, then the mechanical part of the problem is much more complicated. The described VAZ models have non-separable ESP structures. They are characterized as the most reliable, but in case of breakdown they require a complete replacement from the owner.

How the structure is dismantled.

Remove the handle and rod.
Lowering the glass, remove the holder.
The glass is raised to the maximum and secured with tape.
Unscrew all the nuts holding the mechanism to the door.
Dismantling is complete and the device can be completely removed for diagnostics.

Next, you will decide whether to repair or replace with a new device.

Window regulator VAZ 2114

Major breakdowns of power windows

Depending on the configuration of the car, it can be equipped with both mechanical (manual) and electric windows. It is from which of these options is installed on your car that you should begin searching for the corresponding faults.

Thus, for manually operated window regulators the following types of damage are most typical:

failure of rods (bending of rods when excessive force is applied);
jamming of traction joints;
spontaneous unwinding and loss of fasteners.

It is quite simple to fix all these malfunctions with your own hands; you just need to correctly dismantle the window regulator and carry out repairs (we will tell you how to remove the device mechanism below).

In turn, if the power windows on a VAZ 2114 do not work, then the possible reasons for this may be:

fuse blown (at the same time playing the role of a fog light fuse);
failure of relay K5;
break in the power supply circuit of the lifts;
drive motor burnout.

In this case, you should start your search by checking the fuses designated F5 and F16 (this can be done by replacing them with new ones or by regular “diagnosis”). If the fuses are working, then you should continue to look for the problem; if not, replace them with others designed for the same amperage.

The next thing to check is relay K5 in the power window circuit. To test it, you need to replace it with a known working (new) relay and check the functionality of the device. If a malfunction is detected, the old relay must be replaced.

An indirect, but at the same time, objective way to test virtually any relay is to test it by ear. So, when the power circuit is turned on, the working relay should emit a characteristic click, which indicates its serviceability. If, after applying current, no sound is heard, then the relay has soured and does not work.

The next stage of the test will be to “test” the wires in the power window circuit using a multimeter. If a break is detected, it will be necessary to replace the burnt wire with a new one with the same (or slightly larger) cross-section.

If the wiring is in order, then all that remains is to check the functionality of the electric drive itself. The easiest way to do this is to connect the lift motor to the network “directly”. A failed electric window motor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a similar one.

If after such a thorough check it is still not possible to find a fault, then you should check the mechanical parts of the electric lift, namely, inspect the condition of its gears. Most often, it is their breakage or chipping/abrasion of individual teeth that causes the malfunction. The solution in this case will be to replace the gears themselves, which can be purchased at almost any auto store.

Fuse

When problems appear with the operation of the mechanism, the first thing to check is the condition of fuses F5 and F16. F5 is the fifth from the top on the left, and F16 is the bottom on the right. They are responsible for the operation of the window lift mechanism on the car. Fuse F1 may also affect the operation of the power windows.

Remember, the element cannot burn out just like that; this usually happens when the wire is short-circuited to body ground. If during replacement the new protective element also burns out, you need to inspect the entire system wiring diagram.