Self-soundproofing Lada Vesta dashboard

Why remove the back seat?

General view of the rear seat.

Of course, before considering the issue of carrying out the process of dismantling the rear seat of the Lada Vesta, it is necessary to understand in what cases this procedure will be needed.

So, let's take a closer look at the cases in which you will need to remove the sofa and the back of the car:

• To replace upholstery. This is often done when tissue elements are damaged. This could be holes burnt by cigarettes, spilled liquids, an accidentally torn surface, or, in extreme cases, a fire inside the car.
• Carrying out repair and restoration work on the body. It often happens that after a traffic accident, the rear part of the vehicle is damaged and deformations appear along the bottom of the cabin. This also includes side impacts in the area of ​​the B-pillar and rear pillar.
• Replacement of upholstery or seats during the process of tuning and modification of the interior. In this case, you just need to remove the sofa and the back of the rear seat.
• Pasting soundproofing will also require dismantling the rear seat, since it is necessary to get to the bottom of the car.
• Other factors that will require dismantling the rear sofa and backrest.

Removing the rear seat of a Lada Vesta

The process of removing the rear seat on a Lada Vesta is quite simple and quite typical for all vehicles of the VAZ family. This procedure can be carried out in one pair of hands and requires minimal tools.

Let's consider the sequence of actions aimed at dismantling the rear seat:

1. Of course, the manufacturer recommends removing the negative terminal from the battery when carrying out all repair and restoration operations. But, in this case, this is not necessary, so we will skip this operation.
2. Let's start dismantling. First you need to dismantle the sofa. To do this, lift it up to remove it from the clamps.

Location of the rear sofa seat latch.

Location of the rear sofa fastenings.

Rear seat back bolt locations.

Location of the rear backrest fastenings.

The installation process is identical to the dismantling process in reverse order.

Removal and installation of the Lada Vesta instrument cluster

The dashboard must be removed in case of repair, tuning, or for dismantling subsequent interior parts. The process is not complicated and will not take you much time. Before starting work, it is recommended to disconnect the ground terminal from the battery.

Unscrew the two fastening screws (No. 1 in Fig.) of the instrument panel using a T20 socket and screwdriver. Pull the instrument panel by the upper part (No. 2) towards you, overcoming the resistance of the latches.

Unscrew the two screws (No. 1) securing the instrument cluster using a T20 socket and screwdriver.

Pull the instrument cluster towards you and disconnect the connector with wires (No. 3) from the reverse side. Remove the instrument cluster.

Installation of the instrument panel is carried out in reverse order. The process is also shown in the video:

Attention!

After replacing the instrument panel, use a diagnostic tool (for example, GradeX) in the “Functions” mode to perform the following procedures:

• recording VIN in the instrument cluster;
• automatic configuration of the instrument cluster.

According to reviews from owners, these procedures are not necessary; the shield will still work.

Have you ever had to dismantle the Vesta dashboard? What difficulties did you experience and were there any special features during the work process? Let us remind you that further instructions for modifying and tuning the instrument panel can be found in this category.

Source

Noise insulation

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of a Lada Vesta dashboard should begin with an assessment of the situation. LADA Vesta has standard insulation at a decent level, especially on the engine panel directly in the cabin. There is thick vibration insulation, complemented by felt, the same as the floor. Taking this into account, sound-absorbing material glued to the top of the heater will suffice.

First, it is better to work directly on the dashboard from the back side, and then proceed to the body. The thickness of the layer will depend on the preferences of the owner and his plans. But there are some general recommendations:

First, the surface must be wiped free of dust.

Before gluing, be sure to degrease the surface with a cloth soaked in anti-silicone.

The first layer on the back side of the dashboard is vibration isolation, but not too thick - a thickness of 2 mm will be quite enough. This solution will make the panel heavier and dampen vibrations. If you work in the summer, in hot weather, you don’t have to heat the material, but simply smooth it with a roller. Otherwise, it is recommended to use a hair dryer to warm the surface. Just be careful; if you overdo it, the hairdryer may even melt the plastic.

On top of the vibration insulation layer, sound insulation of the Lada Vesta dashboard is glued - biplast, etc. material. This guarantees the absence of creaks and crickets that “love” to appear in the depths of the dashboard.

Removable panel components - the glove box and others - are glued in the same way.

Fastening points - it is recommended to glue these areas with madeleine or other material that eliminates squeaking.

In addition, car owners recommend paying attention to the seat for the radio. The compartment is very small, which is why many people either cannot install a new radio at all, or notice that it constantly gets hot

Therefore, it is worth thinking about a slight expansion of the compartment.

Installation occurs in reverse order.

Burnt out warning lights

In most cases, the absence of a signal from the control lamps is due to the fact that the light bulbs themselves have burned out. To make sure the lamps are working, pay attention to their condition when you turn the ignition switch. Before starting the engine, the control unit turns on the warning lamps for a while. Particular attention should be paid to lamps with a red tint:

• indicator lamp for handbrake and brake system malfunction.
• power steering fault warning lamp
• indicator lamp for lack of battery charge
• critical oil pressure indicator light
• security system malfunction warning lamp

All these lamps are red because they are associated with a serious malfunction, ignoring which can lead to not the most pleasant consequences: in the best case, the car will stall, in the worst case, the engine will require major repairs (for example, emergency oil pressure).

Principle of operation

This arrangement of switches will be the most successful from the point of view of ergonomics and comfort. As a result, after painful searches and reflections, I noticed that this board should fit perfectly into the tunnel setup.

When the button is pressed, power is supplied to its winding. Installing heating elements in the rear seats takes about the same time. The power wire was led directly from the battery through the standard hole on the left in the engine compartment into the passenger compartment. The driver's license will have to be removed to put everything back in place. It is enough to install the heating sheet and the relay in their original places. The connection diagram will remain the same, that is, installation will not cause any additional difficulties. I plopped down on the icy seat for a couple of seconds, started the car, pressed the heating button, and within a couple of minutes the seat was already warm.

And here it is, the highest pleasure - to sit in a warm chair when there is frost all around. Cheap DIY steering wheel heating.

See also: Sample estimate for electrical installation work

Lada Vesta dashboard firmware

Before installing the firmware, remember that it is quite possible that it will not work correctly. Therefore, it is better to do this from official dealers. If you decide to do it yourself, then you will need a Usbdm OSBDM V4.95 programmer and a computer or laptop.

Here are 12 step-by-step instructions for installing the firmware:

1. Install the driver and firmware program on the PC from the disk that comes with the device.
2. Remove the instrument panel, peel off the factory warranty seal and open the back cover.
3. Open the device and set the switch to 3.3 volts.
4. Connect the device to the panel and computer.
5. Launch the HCS12 Programmer program on your PC and click on Detected.
6. In the Target item, specify the folder in which the firmware is located. Check the Auto Reload box and click Detect Chip. In this case, the chip type is determined automatically.
7. On the Security tab, check the Unsecure box.
8. On the Advanced tab, check the Enable box.
9. Go to the Device Operations section, on the Target tab, select Erase Selective. With this choice, mileage and immobilizer data are saved.
10. Click on the Program Flash button to launch the firmware. This will take a few seconds.
11. Refuse to connect the panel in the program.
12. Now you can turn off the device and install the device in its place.

Important: For flashing, use firmware suitable for this version of the device. You cannot install an older version on a newer socket and vice versa to avoid malfunctions.

Lumbar support

AvtoVAZ designers tried to make the Lada Vesta the most comfortable of all VAZ models. So they added adjustable lumbar support. To adjust it, there is another handle on the side back.

She is responsible for a useful and rarely seen setting - lumbar support for the seat. This option can only be found in the Comfort trim level and above. The standard version of Vesta does not have such a setting.

Lift the lever up, changing the shape of the seat back. At the same time, the driver's back support moves forward. This ensures a straight back position, which helps during long trips behind the wheel, preventing pain.

Third-party, but factory heating

Okay, but what if there is no standard heating? What to do then? Calm down, you can buy a third-party factory one, now our Russian one is highly praised and is designed for almost any car.

The main thing is to choose the size of the “seats”, it is important to understand that you do not need to heat the entire place, but strictly in the center, the side cushions (not installed for support)

The principle is also simple - we remove the standard seat covers, lay and glue the mats - then we put on the covers and connect them to the electrical system. You can do everything yourself, the kit costs about 2000 - 2500 rubles, for two seats (back + lower part). A short video, let's watch.

Grant seat heating installation

In the first part

In this article, I described the introduction of a set of heating elements from the Alamara into the Granta seats. In the second part I will try to describe how we can connect them to the car’s on-board network. Let's figure out the connection together. Many connect heating through one or two relays. I had a small diagram included with the wiring harness for connecting the heating. There were no relays marked on it, just as there were no relays in the wiring itself. And the power was taken from the alarm connector. It was also indicated there that it is necessary to replace the original 5 A fuse of this circuit with a more powerful one - 10 A. Let's check if such a connection is safe: After installing the heaters in the chairs, I connected them to a powerful 12 V power supply to check their functionality . At the same time, I decided to understand the connection in more detail and make sure that this circuit is reliable and correct. I connected an ammeter to the circuit and measured the amperage under load. You can see the results in the photo:

As you can see above, with a heating power supply load for one seat, the current consumption is in the range of 2.4-2.5 A. We look at the maximum load current of our heating button - it is equal to 5A (Stamped on the button itself). That is, the current reserve for our button is quite large. The conclusion that follows is that the buttons can be freely used without a relay.

Next, you need to find out the total amperage of heating consumption on two chairs. Turn it on and measure it.

We see that the amperage did not go beyond 5 A. It follows that the recommendation in the wiring diagram is correct. That is, you can take the plus (with the ignition on) from the alarm connector and increase the fuse rating of this circuit by 5A. But I decided not to pull the wires so far, and took the plus from the connector for adjusting the heater blowing speed. There is a wire with a thicker cross-section than on the emergency gang, and there is no need to pull it through the entire panel.

Now after the theoretical part, let's get down to business:

It is most convenient to connect the wiring with the seats removed. First of all, we need to remove the plastic floor tunnel. It is secured with five self-tapping screws. To begin, unscrew two screws on the right and left of the tunnel. Their location can be seen from the photographs:

By choosing the Classic package, the user gives up the pleasant warm options and sound system presented in the next Comfort equipment level. The message is cost-effective: for an additional 50,000 rubles you can equip your Lada Granta with a higher-quality audio system, and spend the remaining money on a set of standard seat heating. We take care of the installation work - we will reduce costs and properly power the circuit.

Dismantling

It all starts with disassembling the interior. Removing the Lada Vesta dashboard yourself is not so difficult, but you need to work very carefully.

The first is the battery, from which you need to remove the negative terminal.

Drain the antifreeze and remove the pipes

Next comes the turn of draining the coolant. To do this, you need to drive the sedan onto an overpass, a pit, or simply drive the front wheels onto supports and wait until the engine cools down, then unscrew the drain tank plug to relieve excess pressure.

When everything is done, you need to tighten the plug so that the flow of antifreeze at first is not so powerful. Next, all that remains is to place a drain container under the radiator, and use pliers to tighten the clamp securing the pipe from the bottom of the radiator. When some of the liquid has flowed out, you should unscrew the cap of the expansion tank so that the antifreeze drains completely.

Then you need to drain the fluid from the cylinder block. To do this, you first need to dismantle the starter, since it prevents access to the drain plug, and during the draining process, antifreeze will get onto the starter itself. The element is secured with three screws, which must be removed using a 10mm socket. After removal, the starter must be moved to the side and secured with a piece of wire.

This opens access to the drain plug, which is unscrewed with a 13-point head. You need to unscrew it and wait for the antifreeze to completely drain.

When this is done, the pipelines should be disconnected from the evaporator block, which requires unscrewing the bolt marked in the figure as number 2, and then putting plugs on both the holes in the block itself and on the pipelines. Next, you need to use pliers to squeeze the clamps indicated by numbers 3 and 4 and remove the hoses going to the heater radiator.

Facing

It also needs to be dismantled. The front pillar trim is held on by clips that snap off. The front sill shield (right) is secured with a screw (No. 3 in the figure) and clips.

Floor tunnel

Soundproofing the Lada Vesta dashboard involves removing the central tunnel of the sedan floor, which is divided into 2 parts:

1. The front one is a massive plastic component that fits directly to the dashboard. It contains the cigarette lighter, transmission selector, seat heating buttons, etc.
2. Rear – the parking brake is located on it and this section is significantly smaller.

It all starts with the back section. First, unscrew 2 bolts on the sides of the handbrake using a Torx 20 sprocket, and also remove the plastic plug under the parking brake handle. All that remains is to carefully remove the section.

Let's move on to the front. First you need to remove the side panels, each of which is held on by one screw.

Next, using a knife or thin screwdriver, you need to dismantle the gearbox selector cover, then disconnect the plug from the wires and remove the floor tunnel lining.

When everything is done, all that remains is to unscrew the screws marked with the number 2 and remove the floor tunnel.

The video shows how to remove the Lada Vesta floor tunnel yourself.

The dismantling of the cladding continues by unscrewing 2 bolts that secure the entire panel to the floor tunnel.

Steering column

First you need to unscrew the 3 screws that secure the column casing and remove it.

Next, when the casing is removed, you need to unscrew the 4 nuts, marked in the figure with the number 2. With them, the steering shaft (together with the amplifier) ​​is attached to the cross member of the tidy.

Then you need to disconnect the plug with the wiring, and then lower the steering shaft to the floor, setting the steering wheel adjustment lever to the locking position to eliminate the possibility of the shaft being disconnected from the electric booster.

The next step in independently removing the Lada Vesta dashboard is to disconnect the plugs with wires, marked with the number 1, from the instrument panel, brake and clutch pedal switches, as well as from the electronic gas pedal. Only after this the 2 nuts (No. 2 in the figure) that provide the mass are unscrewed.

Side panels

When the steering column is finished, it is necessary to dismantle the side panels of the dashboard and loosen the fasteners.

To do this, use a knife or screwdriver to remove the plug (No. 1 in the figure), and then the bolt (No. 2 in the figure) securing the cross member is released 3-4 turns. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the windshield.

The next step is to dismantle the side panels of the dashboard, indicated by numbers 4 and 7, and also unscrew 4 bolts numbered 5 and 11.

Connectors

It's a small matter. All that remains is to disconnect the plug from the wiring, unscrew the nut and remove the wire to ground. It is important not to forget to disconnect the connector that goes to the antenna.

Lastly, remove the hose from the climate control, designed to drain condensate.

When everything is turned off, all that remains is to remove the Lada Vesta dashboard, but you won’t be able to do this alone, and therefore you can’t do it without an assistant.

After the panel is removed, it would be a good idea to inspect the “underside” of the dashboard. There are times when there is wiring dangling there that will simply fray in the future. Sometimes you can notice broken fasteners and the like. It’s better to fix them all so you can have peace of mind later.

Removing the Lada Vesta instrument panel module

The instrument panel module is a unit consisting of an instrument panel cross member, an instrument panel wiring harness with a mounting block assembly, an air distribution unit for the heating, air conditioning and ventilation system, an instrument panel frame assembly with ventilation system deflectors and an instrument cluster.

Place the car in the workplace. The panel module is shown in Figure 1.

To remove the instrument panel module, we prepare the car for work and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

We drain the coolant as described in the article - “Replacing the engine coolant of a Lada Vesta car.”

If the car has an air conditioner, unload the refrigerant in accordance with the requirements of the equipment instructions.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew bolt 2, Figure 2, securing the pressure plate 1 of the air conditioning system pipelines, disconnect the pipelines from the evaporator unit.

We install technological plugs on the pipelines and openings of the evaporator block.

Using pliers, compress clamp 3 of the outlet hose and clamp 4 of the inlet hose of the heater radiator, remove the hoses from the radiator tubes.

We remove the trim for the wind window pillars, the front right sill trim, and the front floor tunnel trim.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts 2 on the left side, Figure 3, securing the pillar 1 of the cross member of the instrument panel 3 to the floor tunnel.

Using a Torx T20 head, unscrew screws 3, Figure 4, securing housings 1 and 2 of the steering shaft, and remove the housings.

Using a 13 socket, unscrew the four nuts 2, Figure 5, securing the power steering shaft 1 assembly to the cross member of the instrument panel, disconnect the electrical connectors and lower the steering shaft to the floor of the cabin.

To prevent the steering shaft from disconnecting from the power steering, the steering wheel adjustment lever must be in the shaft lock position.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew nuts 2, Figure 6, securing the ground wires of harness 1 of the instrument panel wires to the body.

Disconnect the front and rear wiring harness connectors from the instrument panel wiring harness connectors, the instrument panel wiring harness connectors from the electronic throttle pedal, the clutch pedal switches and the brake pedal.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove plug 1, Figure 7, on the instrument panel under the windshield.

Using a 13mm socket wrench, unscrew bolt 2 of the upper fastening of the cross member 3 of the instrument panel to the front panel by several turns.

Before unscrewing the bolt, protect the adjacent area of ​​the windshield from accidental damage with a technological screen.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the side trims 4 and 7 of the instrument panel, disconnect block 9 of the instrument panel wiring harness from switch 8 located on the right trim, and with a head number 13, unscrew two screws 5 and 11 securing the instrument panel cross member to the body.

Using a 10mm wrench, disconnect ground wire 3, Figure 18, and connectors 2 of harness 1 of the instrument panel wires from the body and from the rear connectors 5 of the right wiring harness.

Disconnect connectors 2, Figure 9, of the antenna cable from the connectors of harness 1 of the instrument panel wires.

Disconnect condensate drain tube 2 from housing 1, Figure 10, of the air conditioning unit.

Together with an assistant, we remove the instrument panel module from the car interior.

Install the instrument panel module in the reverse order of removal.

Before connecting the air conditioning system piping block to the evaporator, you need to install new O-rings, having previously lubricated them with compressor oil.

Fill the engine cooling system with coolant.

We load the refrigerant in accordance with the instructions for the equipment in the amount of 390±20 g.

Lada Vesta dashboard - 12 firmware points, how to remove

Automotive Dashboard - allows the driver to receive information about the status of vehicle components. The more complete this information is, the more comfortable it will be to drive the machine. The dashboard of the Lada Vesta car works efficiently - all icons are in plain view of the driver. The entire instrument cluster is harmoniously combined and distinguishes Vesta from its predecessors. The latest cars have a new instrument panel (control), it has undergone improvements and changes - you will find its article number below. The instrument panel of the Lada Vesta sometimes breaks down; in the article you will find a checklist of 11 instrument malfunctions. The price of a standard Vesta car panel is on average 6 times lower than that of analogues, for example ferrum gf-890LV
for Lada Vesta costs from 32,000 rubles. Sometimes there is a need to remove the instrument panel in order, for example, to install an analogue one; in the article you will find disassembly instructions. On the first Vestas, the panel light turned on only when the headlights and low beams were on; later, dealers began flashing the Vesta panel with new firmware; of course, you can do this yourself. The factory version 1 of the dashboard firmware was numbered 026. Then version 038 came out, which was blinding at night, now there is a normal version 028, which lights up, less brightly, when the low beam is turned on. In the article you will find a checklist for flashing the device.

Connection of heating elements for seat heating diagram

Now about the electrical connection. Everything seems simple here. I took a switch of the required current and voltage rating, and connected everything in series. But you would be warned against this option. The whole point is that human essence sometimes manifests itself in forgetfulness. This means that leaving the heated seats on once while the car is parked can completely drain the battery. Here it is best to ensure dependence on turning off the ignition switch. That is, if the ignition switch turns off, then so does the heated seats. This is easy to do using a relay. The winding of which will be triggered by turning on the ignition switch, and from the sequentially installed heating switch button. Such a scheme will have two advantages. The first is, as we have already said, turning off the ignition in the car. Second, independent connection for power currents after the ignition switch. That is, the switching current of the relay will not significantly affect the currents after the ignition switch, and therefore will not cause the fuses to blow in the mounting block.

So, we offer you the following scheme.

Yes, there is a minus here. This means that it is generally better to make the circuit switch off after some time, but this will complicate it. This means that not all car enthusiasts will be able to repeat it. However, what is most important is that, in general, the scheme is quite workable.

If, after all, you are going to make a circuit with a timed shutdown, then this is discussed in the article “Do-it-yourself timer in a car.” And even a video on this topic.

Road stability and steering

The next item on my list of Vesta advantages is handling. But you need to consider it taking into account previous experience with fawn and grant. After them, the news drives great.

She doesn't walk in a rut. Doesn't roll much in corners or during sudden lane changes. In the West there is no huge delay between the movement of the steering wheel and the movement of the car. Everything is like in any other classmate. This is definitely a plus, because the Granta steered poorly and AvtoVAZ could easily transfer these shortcomings to the new model.

Perhaps this is also due to the presence of ESC, TCS and other letters that were not in the grant. But the main thing is that with all these things it’s nice to ride a West.

Heated seats Lada Priora - breakdowns, installation instructions

In frosty weather, it’s not very pleasant to sit on an icy car seat to start the engine - so heated seats come to the rescue. Inventive owners of the Lada Priora almost immediately began installing heated seats in their Prioras. Of course, the seat does not warm up instantly, but it noticeably saves you from frostbite. While the heater is not heating up (since the engine has not yet warmed up!) is it necessary to sit in complete cold? Factory seat heating is installed only in luxury versions of the Priora car. Installing it is not very difficult, the main thing is to connect everything correctly. Heated seats, like “Emelya”, do not need to be installed, the seat upholstery is not removed, because it is just a cover for the seats - it is inserted into the cigarette lighter - although for some reason, over time, they burn out the cigarette lighter fuse.

You can install heated seats on a Priora yourself; it will cost relatively little (compared to the fact that your health can suffer greatly from warming up a frozen car). The heated seat control unit can be installed in the Priora where it is convenient: the main thing to remember is that this is not the most necessary button when driving a car, it should not interfere with pressing other levers and buttons. Read the article to the end and your car will be warm even at minus 45.

Step 2: Removing the Instrument Panel Combination

To complete the removal of the instrument panel, you will need the same tools that were used to remove the dashboard. To do this, unscrew the two screws located on the left and right of the devices. After this, carefully, without damaging the wires, pull the entire instrument cluster towards you and disconnect the connector located on the right side (when viewed from above).

The instrument panel is in your hands and ready for diagnostics - carefully examine it for burnt elements and test all the necessary warning lamps using a tester. If necessary, make repairs by replacing faulty parts, and then reassemble the panel. Installation of the instrument panel is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Let us remind you that the dashboard displays the real state of all vital systems of your car, and if one of the dashboard signals is missing, you may not notice serious damage to other components.

The Lada Vesta dashboard was designed from scratch and adapted for comfort, while it has absolutely not lost its attractive appearance.

At the end of 2016, news came out that AvtoVAZ had designed an improved instrument panel for this car. During the project, many high-quality transformations were carried out. Manufacturers are announcing a modern version of the device, and the driver himself will be able to modify the car.

Photo of the interior of the sedan modification

Inside the Lada Vesta car, materials and innovations were used that had not been used on a vase before. This made overall operation more pleasant for people; for the first time on a vase, the steering column could be adjusted for reach and installation angle. The steering wheel can be adjusted for reach by 50 mm and angle by 7 degrees. Vesta now has a multifunction steering wheel, which was not previously available on any VAZ model. The steering wheel has a three-spoke badge in the middle, it looks made with high quality and accuracy! The steering wheel has control buttons for the cruise control radio and telephone.

The instrument panel is interestingly implemented; it is grouped into three wells, all of which resembles a sports car. The quality of the panel material is good. The panel has few lamps, but despite this it looks informative. The torpedo is made of dark plastic. The center console is level with the panel, but protrudes forward a little and this is convenient for use; you don’t need to reach out to press a certain button. The console is divided into two parts, but depending on the configuration, it is located on top (in the expensive configuration there is a multimedia system with a 7-inch screen), and a branded radio in the cheaper basic version. On the second part of the panel there is a climate system separated by a row of buttons. The central tunnel is equipped with two cup holders.

The car has good visibility; the arches do not interfere with the view, as on the previous model 2170. Two airbags are built into the front panel (driver plus passenger). Regarding the interior trim, it looks high quality. The door cards, by the way, use new Soft Look plastic, are visually similar to leather. The plastic is embossed and hard to the touch. Despite the cheap materials, the interior looks quite strict and not childish, and if the car is in the Luxury configuration, the interior is equipped with additional chrome inserts. In general, Vesta’s interior looks a class higher than it is: ergonomic seats with good upholstery, all instruments and elements are arranged thoughtfully. When you get into the car, it’s pleasant to be in, you can see the road, and it’s easy to read the information on the speedometer. The seats have a high depth of adjustment, which allows tall people to feel comfortable behind the wheel. In previous models, there was limited space in the back, which was a big minus. There is ample knee room behind the driver; the distance from the rear sofa to the front seats is 226 mm. In general, it feels like the dimensions inside the car have been thought out. The seats are comfortable, the headrest follows the lines of the body and is friendly with the back of the head when standing in a traffic jam. The distance from the floor to the rear sofa is 345 mm, and from the floor to the top of the front seats is in the range from 276 to 310 mm. The distance from the floor to the steering wheel (since it is adjustable) is from 450 - 528 mm.

Connection diagram in the fuse box

Work on connecting the wires should be carried out with the battery disconnected. Install the relay (1119-3747210-10) into the mounting block, connector K11.

The 87th contact of the relay is connected to the red wire of the button block.

The 86th contact of the relay is connected to the body ground.

The 85th contact of the relay is connected to the black-blue wire from the ignition switch.

The 30th pin of the relay is connected to the pink wire of the 30th pin of the high beam relay.

The fuse can be installed between the high beam relay and relay K11 on the pink wire.

As can be seen from the description, the Lada Priora heating connection diagram is very simple.

source

Tools and materials

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

1. Tool set (including ratchet, 10 socket, 13 socket, 20 Torx sprocket)
2. Pliers.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Roller (dense).
5. Technical hair dryer.

Materials:

1. Vibration and noise insulation - its choice will depend solely on your preferences and financial condition. There are a lot of offers on the market.
2. Madeleine or any other anti-creak.
3. Antisilicone.
4. Textile.

Reasons for increased fuel consumption of Lada Vesta

The cost of gasoline consumption today is taking a significant toll on your wallet. It’s rare that a Vesta owner won’t notice that gas mileage has increased. High fuel consumption often indicates a car malfunction, but this is not always the case. Let's look at the reasons for the increase in gasoline consumption following the example of the Lada Vesta Cross SV.

On the mechanics, everything depends on the driver’s experience, but even incorrect gear shifting will increase the car’s fuel consumption. The engine speed has increased, the gearbox continues to transmit torque in the previous gear, no shifting occurs, and naturally more energy and gasoline are consumed, respectively. With the right gear, at the right speed, the car would have already gone further, so the fuel is wasted.

Switched on energy consumers take charge from the engine and affect the amount of gasoline burned. Moreover, this applies not only to the air conditioner or subwoofer, but also to ordinary car headlights.

In winter, fuel combustion increases due to the constant inclusion of additional equipment, due to the engine warming up before driving.

Uneven tire pressure increases the load on the internal combustion engine. Tires that are too narrow or too wide can also affect fuel consumption.

Designation of light bulbs and sensors

The tachometer is located on the left side of the instrument panel. Inside its scale, starting from the top center, there are eight indicators. If you list them from the top clockwise, it will look like this:

• pedal adjustment;
• seat belt indicator, which will light up if the driver or passenger is not fastened;
• airbag icon;
• backup indicator light, connected when installing additional devices and systems;
• brake failure icon;
• battery charge indicator;
• sign of engine malfunction;
• low oil pressure sign.

Behind the tachometer scale there are four indicators:

1. turning on ABS;
2. low tire pressure, receives data from tire sensors;
3. gearbox malfunctions;
4. electric power steering controller.

The speedometer is located in the center. Inside its scale, at the top, there are six indicators:

• trunk open icon;
• open hood indicator;
• alarm indicator;
• open door icon;
• cruise control indicator;
• speed limit icon.

Below the speedometer there is a liquid crystal display displaying the main functions and parameters. There are arrows to the right and left above the display that indicate the turn signals are on.

In the right block of the shield, at the top, there is a coolant temperature scale.

Important: It is prohibited to operate the vehicle if the temperature sensor is faulty.

It is also prohibited to drive a car with an overheated engine. When the 115 degree mark is exceeded, the indicator will remain constantly red and the driver will hear an intermittent beep. Below the scale is the immobilizer icon. Just below are two icons indicating whether the electronic stability control system is on/off. At the bottom of this part there is a fuel level scale in the tank. To the left of which there is an indicator for turning on the reserve fuel volume.

On the right, between these scales, from top to bottom are:

1. indicator for turning on dimensions;
2. low beam icon;
3. front PTF turn-on indicator;
4. rear PTF activation icon.

Lada Priora Hatchback EDM › Logbook › Three-level heated seats from Priora FL

So I finally found a reason to write something about the car, even though I was just lazy. Since the last publication, the car has traveled about 25 thousand kilometers, more than two years have passed. Feels fine. Consumables (liquid filters) are being changed, there were no sudden attacks. I can only remember a problem from last winter - air in the deflectors of different temperatures when the stove was on. From the central left one blows heat, from its neighbor there is warmth, and from the extreme ones there is cold. The matter was resolved by dismantling the heater core and flushing it under pressure. At the same time, the antifreeze was replaced. Now everything is fine. The handbrake somehow stopped holding - due to fatigue and curvature of the lever. Was replaced with a no-name part from the store. It was enough for exactly a month and a half. The splines on the base (not on the lever) were eaten away. The new one has been fine for six months, it seems to be holding up. A couple of weeks ago I replaced the brake discs - the thickness is 18 mm with the outermost 17.8 mm. Along with the discs, I also changed the pads. All original, TIIR in original Ladovian packaging. At the same time, the leaky CV joint boot was replaced. And yes, NIPPON pads are GOVNO! Creaky dogs. Now about the good stuff. I didn’t want to put anything on it at all, simply because these couple of years I’ve been waiting for the purchase of a new car. But for now it’s a little bit difficult - I don’t want to compromise, I want a specific car, so I’d better wait. I bought and installed the vaunted original Jimmy door switches, made in South Korea. The old ones are simply exhausted. The issue price is 100 rubles/piece. We purchased handbrake and gearbox handles in leather.

Price - 800/250 rubles. At the checkpoint the old one was already going bald. Well, at the same time I decided to buy a heated asshole, finally! I was always afraid that the generator wouldn’t handle it (BATE at 90A). But then a used 115 amp generator from KZATE turned up for a thousand, now it has been repaired and almost assembled, we will install it soon. There are plans to replace the cracked windshield with a heated one. Well, I bought the heaters, and when I received the parcel, I immediately rushed to install the device) I took a three-speed Prior from the new ones.

What to add? It’s good for the buttocks and lower back, I recommend it to everyone. If you want, fire it, if you want, warm up the little one. I can’t even imagine how I ever lived without it. And yes, BATE pulls, the drawdown on the bk is a maximum of 0.2 volts for 2 heating at maximum.

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What does the seat assembly on a Lada Vesta car consist of?

It consists of a pillow and a backrest, which are supported by a frame. The connection of these parts is made with the possibility of adjusting the position of the backrest, height, and also the distance relative to the steering wheel with pedals. The side pockets on the car are designed for one of these adjustments.

You can, of course, use capes; they will be easier to remove to wash, but they bulge and look untidy; the covers are universal, but cannot be adjusted to fit.

Vest owners are mainly inclined to choose textile covers, among which there are magnificent, practical eco-leather covers that can be given an individual design. Unfortunately, the standard Vesta does not provide upholstery made of natural or artificial leather, so this step is the exclusive right to upgrade the interior to a high level of quality.

In addition, covers made of genuine leather can be ordered, then the master will “adjust” the dimensions exactly to your car.

Standard front seats and rear sofa - article number and price

If for any reason you decide to replace the seats, get ready to look for them by catalog numbers:

For your own convenience, you can replace the standard set with an anatomical one if you spend a lot of time behind the wheel. Orthopedic chairs are a rather individual issue, because if you lack the back support that is in the factory version, you will most likely rush to buy the first orthopedic chair you find.

Be patient and take your time: consult a doctor, describe the nature of the problem that worries you, and ask what it should be. Today the market is full of various offers where you can find “your” option.

Lack of arrow indicators

Often, the reason for the lack of indications of arrow indicators is the corresponding sensors. Let's look at each device separately:

• Tachometer. The cause of failure of the tachometer can only be the device itself, since failure of the crankshaft position sensor or ECU will result in a complete stop of the engine.
• Speedometer. If the cause of the breakdown is not the device itself, then along with the lack of speed readings you will also see a burning ABS lamp (malfunction of the speed sensors).
• Coolant temperature gauge. The ECU transmits information from the temperature sensor, a malfunction of which can lead to a lack of readings.
• Fuel level indicator. The reason for the lack of readings from this device may be a malfunction of the fuel module.

Remove the instrument panel of the Lada Vesta only after diagnosing all the sensors associated with the pointer indicators.

Method of installing standard heated seats on Priora

In addition to purchasing a standard set of heating plates, we will need additional materials

• fuse 15 A;
• relay 1119-3747210-10;
• ground terminals;
• corrugated tube with a diameter of 18 mm;
• Double-sided tape.

Now you can proceed directly to installation

1. Move the seat forward and unscrew the 3 mounting bolts.
2. Move the chair back and unscrew the 4 nuts from the clamps.
3. Tilt the chair back and unscrew two more bolts in the middle and remove the seat.
4. Remove the trim by bending the metal hooks on the back and the latches on the bottom.
5. Bend back the casing and secure the heating elements.
6. Lead the wire down under the seat, having previously put on the corrugated pipe, secure it with a clamp, and put on the trim.
7. Disconnect the battery and make connections:

• black wire – attached under a bolt near the handbrake (“ground”);
• white – to the cigarette lighter illumination;
• red - stretch along the standard harness under the floor covering under the driver's seat and further along the left threshold to relay contact “87” in the electronic unit.

1. Remove the tunnel lining and lay the main harness from the control unit to the armrest, having first put on the corrugated pipe.
2. Install the purchased relay into the free slot K11 of the mounting block and make the connections:

• terminal “86” – connect to the body;
• terminal “85” - connect to the blue-black wire from the ignition switch;
• connect terminal “30” to the pink wire from pin “30” of K7.

1. Install a fuse between relays K11 and K7.
2. Check connections.

Heating elements for heating Priora seats

you need to glue it efficiently and carefully, because a common cause of breakdowns is the “moving out” of the heater.

Description

Inside the central well on the standard dashboard there is a speedometer dial, where our garage brethren immediately note with satisfaction that there is an extreme figure of 200 (although in reality the Vesta SV can accelerate to 185 km/h at maximum).

At the bottom of the speedometer there is a liquid crystal display, which displays certain current data to inform the driver, which will be discussed below.

And inside the speedometer dial there are many illuminated indication icons, starting with the alarm icon and about extreme brake wear, and ending with signals about engine problems and a lack of engine lubrication.

In the left well of the tidy there is a tachometer with a gradation from 1 to 7, which means the display range is 1 - 7 thousand rpm of the engine, where after 6 thousand (and in fact it should be after 5.5 thousand) - red zone of critically dangerous speeds for the power unit.

The speedometer dial itself, or rather its lower part, is also used to display certain indication signals.

On the right side of the standard Vesta SV dashboard there is a well, which has a two-instrument combination of displaying both the current engine temperature and the current fuel level. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the engine temperature sensor does not display the heating parameter of the engine coolant, as it was before, but the current temperature of the engine oil. This makes it possible to prevent critical overheating of certain engine components.

As for the fuel level indicator, its gradation is displayed in increments of a quarter of a tank. And the extreme versions of the standard tidy of the Lada Vesta, next to the fuel level sensor, have special icons (probably for cars used for carsharing), which show which side the fuel tank is located on.

This well also contains various indication lights to inform the driver about the operation of certain liftback systems and units (this is exactly the definition of the body design style of the restyled Lada Vesta SV).

The overall assessment of the standard instrument panel of the Lada Vesta in comparison with the instrument panels of the Kalina and even the X-Ray is, in general, an attractive and quite informative dashboard, where the backlight can be either green or orange.

As for the disadvantages of such a device, these are the uninformative, or rather, barely noticeable, intermediate gradations of the scales, especially with a quick glance at them along the way.