Why the charger on the VAZ 2107 disappeared - we look for and fix problems

VAZ 2107 generator and reasons for lack of charging

To start the engine and proper operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107, it is necessary to have DC voltage in the on-board network. When the engine is not started, the battery maintains the proper voltage. After the engine starts, the car's generator charges the battery and maintains the on-board voltage at 13.6-14.2 V. Regardless of engine speed, the output voltage at the generator remains constant. A relay-regulator is responsible for this, which changes the voltage of the generator excitation circuit. If the voltage rises above the permissible level, the winding current decreases, reducing the output voltage. And vice versa.

If the VAZ 2107 has lost charging, the reasons may be as follows:

• malfunction of the relay regulator;
• break or poor contact in the excitation network or generator output voltage;
• broken generator belt.

Restoring normal operation of the generator should begin by determining the reason for the lack of battery charge.

Diode 242

I will briefly summarize the parameters here:

reverse voltage: from 50 to 100 V or higher forward current from 5 to 10A, with a voltage drop across the diode from 1 to 1.5 V.

Constant undercharging of the battery or its absolute discharge at the most inopportune moment is a headache for many car owners. One source of these problems may be the generator. But how to check it? Perhaps it's not his fault at all? Let's figure out together how much the generator must produce for the normal functioning of all car systems and maintaining the battery in a charged state.

How to determine if the VAZ 2107 battery is not charging

The first sign of a lack of charging is a burning indicator lamp on the instrument panel or a voltmeter needle that is not in the green sector when the engine is running. A more reliable way is to check the voltage on the battery using the will class=”aligncenter” width=”600″ height=”450″[/img]

When the engine is running, the normal voltage on the battery is 13.9±0.3 V. When the battery is not charging, the voltage on it is approximately 12 V.

Important: to avoid failure of the regulator relay and the electronic engine control unit, it is prohibited to remove the battery terminals while checking the on-board voltage while the engine is running.

Low and high voltage of the on-board network harms the battery. In the first case, it is discharged, in the second, the electrolyte boils away, which leads to battery failure.

What is needed to repair VAZ 2107 battery charging

To identify and troubleshoot problems, the following devices and tools are needed:

• multimeter;
• control lamp 12 V;
• flat screwdriver;
• knife;
• pliers;
• sandpaper.

Indicator light

As can be seen from the diagram, the charging system involves a large number of components and each of them can cause poor charging or its absence. To monitor the battery charging process, the car's dashboard is equipped with a control light.

If the system is in good working order, the control signal turns on after the factory. But when the engine enters operating mode, the VAZ 2107 battery charging light does not light up. This means that the battery's energy supply is replenished from the generator. At the same time, the needle on the voltmeter moves to the green sector.

Troubleshooting VAZ 2107 battery charging problem

First, you should check the serviceability of the alternator belt - it is this that causes the alternator to rotate and generate current. This belt drives the coolant pump, so this malfunction also manifests itself in engine overheating.

If the charge indicator lamp does not light up, and the voltmeter shows normal voltage of the on-board network, and the battery does not charge, the reason is in the contacts at the terminals.

You should remove the wires from the battery and clean the battery terminals and wires with emery cloth. If the charge does not appear, it is necessary to measure the voltage at terminal “30” (generator output) with the engine running. If the voltage at this terminal and the battery is very different, you need to clean the contacts and ring the wire going from the generator to the battery. The faulty wire must be replaced.

Important: if the belt is over-tensioned, excessive load occurs on the bearings of the generator and pump, which can lead to their failure.

Other reasons for the lack of charge may be a broken rectifier diode on the generator, an open or shorted rotor or stator winding.

Diodes can be checked using a multimeter or a test lamp. Using a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the diodes in the direction in which they should be locked. To check with a test lamp, you must remove the “+” terminals from the battery and connect the test lamp. The wire of the test lamp must be touched in succession to the three bolts of the rectifier devices. Then perform the same operation, only disconnecting the “-” terminal. If the lamp lights up, the diode being tested is broken.

If one of the diodes malfunctions, the diode rectifier assembly must be replaced.

A break in the stator winding is determined with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the rectifier unit mounting bolts. Lack of contact between the winding and the other indicates its breakage. In this case, it is necessary to replace the winding or generator assembly.

A common cause of generator failure is brush wear. To check them, you need to dismantle the brush assembly. The length of the brushes must be more than 5 mm, otherwise they need to be replaced. Also, the brushes may become warped or “stick” in the wells. Therefore, it is necessary to check the condition of their side surface.

Note: the VAZ 2107 generator (carburetor) is no different from the unit for the injection version of the “Seven”. Therefore, all tips for checking and repairing the generator are relevant for both modifications of the car.

If the warning lamp does not light up and other devices do not work when the engine is running, and the battery is not charging, the reason is a blown fuse or a breakdown of the ignition switch (relay).

The reason for the lack of battery charging may be a breakdown of the relay regulator. To check it, you need to connect “+” from the battery to the top contact, and “-” to the left one and check the voltage on the brushes, which should be 12 V. If the voltage is lower, the relay regulator must be replaced.

Why is there no charger on the VAZ 2107?

For trouble-free operation of the car, you need to ensure that the battery is fully charged. If you notice that your VAZ 2107 is not charging the battery, the problem must be resolved as quickly as possible. Especially if you have to drive a car often at night and in winter. At this time, discharge occurs much faster. Otherwise, you will definitely have to use the help of a tow truck or tug.

Let's summarize:

As you can see, there are many reasons why the battery does not have charge. At the same time, a number of problems when the battery does not charge are common to different cars (for example, a VAZ 2107 is not charging or the battery of a foreign car is not charging). Moreover, some of them can be easily detected and eliminated with your own hands. The main thing is to determine why the battery is not charging, after which appropriate measures are taken.

Finally, we note that even ordinary car enthusiasts usually do not have problems with cleaning the terminals and restoring the integrity of wires and contacts. If the problem is with the generator, if you do not have the skills to repair it, it is only recommended to dismantle it yourself and then transfer the generator to a specialized service for repair. This will allow you to avoid common mistakes that are made when repairing a generator with your own hands, and also obtain a guarantee for the repaired device.

Source

Reasons for lack of charging

When the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the battery charge regulator relay, and the rotating generator generates current. In the vase, the mains voltage is maintained at 13.6-14.1 volts. Regardless of the engine speed, the output voltage remains unchanged; the VAZ 2107 charging relay is responsible for this function. The device controls the excitation of the armature winding, thereby changing the output voltage level.

Based on this, the reasons for the lack of charging may be the following:

• The generator belt has broken;
• Weak belt;
• The generator or excitation circuit is broken or there is poor contact between them;
• The problem is in the relay regulator;
• The generator armature (rotor) is faulty.

Main problems

First, let's list the reasons for the lack of charging of the battery on the VAZ 2106:

• the generator drive belt is worn or weakened;
• faulty wiring or connecting blocks;
• poor contact of the relay-regulator with the body;
• generator malfunction: brush wear;
• the diode bridge is broken;
• stator or rotor windings are damaged;

the excitation circuit fuse has blown; the relay regulator is faulty; The ignition switch is faulty.

As we see, there are quite a few reasons. In order to find out why the battery is not charging, you will have to check all of the above probabilities. But first, let’s look at the electrical circuit of the on-board network, which is responsible for recharging the battery.

How to determine the charge level?

Primary control of the charge level on the VAZ 2107 is carried out by instruments on the panel: a control lamp and a voltmeter. If the charge is normal, the indicator arrow will be in the green area, and the control lamp should go out when the engine is running.

To more accurately check the voltage level, you need a voltmeter. As mentioned earlier, the correct charge is 13.6 - 14.1 volts.

You can purchase a special automotive electronic voltmeter or one combined with a watch. Installed both instead of the standard clock and on the dashboard.

Preparing to Troubleshoot

If a problem is detected, we begin diagnostics. First, let's prepare the tools.

• Multimeter (voltmeter);
• Emery cloth or needle file;
• Knife;
• Pliers;
• 12-volt indicator lamp (control).

Let's start the renovation

There may be several reasons for the battery not charging. The instructions below are quite universal and are suitable for any case.

Troubleshooting algorithm:

1. First of all, we check the serviceability of the belt and its tension. If it is damaged or loose, charging will be less than normal and will ultimately lead to battery failure. The belt is also partly responsible for the operation of the cooling pump, so a damaged belt can cause other problems as well.

The problem can be determined by the sign when, when the engine is running, the voltage in the power circuit is within the normal range, but immediately after connecting the load it disappears. Another sign of a weak belt may be a whistling sound. It may appear immediately after starting the engine or when large current consumers, such as lights, are turned on.

This needs to be corrected, since a poorly tensioned belt slips during operation of the mechanism, which accelerates its wear. It must be tightened to a deflection level of 12 - 17 millimeters with a pressure of 10 kgf, or replaced with a new one;

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1. In order not to waste time and not draw false conclusions, you need to check the voltage on the battery with the engine stopped and running. The normal supply voltage of the machine when the engine is running should be 13.6 - 14.1 volts. A voltage below this will indicate a weak belt (point 1), a faulty regulator relay, or a failed diode bridge.
2. If everything is fine with the belt, remove the charging relay and check the wear of the brushes. They should be longer than 5 millimeters, this can be seen visually, but to be sure, check with a ruler. If they malfunction, replace the VAZ 2022 charging relay.

You can check the relay by applying a battery voltage of up to 12 volts to it and connecting a multimeter to the brushes. There should be tension. Next, you need to apply a voltage of 16 - 18 volts to the relay. There should be nothing on the brushes;

1. The next reason for low voltage is a break in one or more diodes. Revealed when removing and disassembling the generator.

It’s worse when a diode breakdown occurs, then there is no voltage drop, but this has a detrimental effect on the battery. An alternating voltage enters the machine's power circuit, which leads to boiling of the battery, destruction of the plates and a decrease in its service life.

1. If the VAZ 2107 battery charging does not light up, or rather, the indicator light on the instrument panel does not light up, despite the fact that the voltage gauge shows normal voltage and despite all this there is no charging, then the problem lies in the contact at the terminals. To fix this, you need to disconnect the wire and clean it with sandpaper or a file and check the integrity of the wire from the battery to the generator.
2. Another reason why the battery charge lamp does not light up at all is a break in the armature winding. It can only be determined after disassembling the generator and measuring the winding for an open circuit using a tester or a multimeter.

Below is a charging diagram for the VAZ 2107 battery:

Reasons for the battery not charging

For proper operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107, the voltage in the on-board network must be constant. When the engines are not running, the battery maintains constant voltage. After starting the engine, the car's generator comes into operation, charges the battery and maintains the on-board voltage within 13.6-14.2 volts. Regardless of the speed, the voltage on the generator must remain constant. This is ensured by a relay regulator, which, depending on the speed, changes the voltage of the generator circuit. If the voltage drops below the permissible level, the winding current increases, increasing the output voltage and vice versa.

If there is no charging on the VAZ 2107, possible reasons may be the following:

• poor contact or break in the excitation network of the generator output voltage;
• the relay regulator is faulty;
• broken generator belt.

Troubleshooting the generator should first begin by identifying the cause of the lack of battery charge.

More complex breakdowns

If, when the engine is running, the voltage in the on-board network is in the normal range, but when the load increases, it immediately drops, then we can say that the alternator belt is very loosely tensioned. Quite often, at low speeds, the belt even begins to whistle. It should be noted that with normal belt tension, the sag should be no more than 17 mm. Moreover, the force should be no more than 10 kgf. If the belt is very loose, it needs to be tightened. If tension cannot be achieved, a new one should be installed.

How to find the reason for the battery not charging

The first sign of a lack of charging is the warning light on the instrument panel coming on or if the voltmeter needle is not in the green zone when the engine is running. You can more accurately check the voltage on the battery using a multimeter.

When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should be – 13.9±0.3 V. If the battery is not charging, the voltage will be approximately 12 V.

Increased or decreased voltage of the on-board network harms the battery. In the first case, the electrolyte boils away, in the second, it is discharged, which leads to failure of the battery.

To find the problem and fix it, you will need the following tools and devices:

• control lamp 12 V;
• multimeter;
• knife;
• flat screwdriver;
• pliers;
• sandpaper.

Troubleshooting battery failure

The first step is to check the tension of the alternator belt - it is what drives the alternator and coolant pump, so this malfunction can also manifest itself as engine overheating.

If the VAZ 2107 battery charging lamp does not light up, and the voltmeter shows the normal voltage of the on-board network and the battery does not charge, the reason is obviously in the contacts at the terminals.

You need to remove the terminals from the battery and clean them with sandpaper. If charging does not appear, it is necessary to measure the voltage at output “30” of the generator with the engine running. If the voltage readings at this output and the battery are very different, you need to clean the contacts and check the wire running from the generator to the battery. If the wire is faulty, it must be replaced.

Another reason for the lack of charging may be a short circuit or break in the stator or rotor winding, as well as a broken rectifier diode on the generator.

Diodes can be checked using a test lamp or multimeter. A multimeter is used to check the resistance of the diodes. To check the diodes using a test lamp, you need to remove the “+” terminal from the battery and connect the test lamp with one end to the positive terminal, and with the other you need to sequentially touch the three bolts shown in the figure below. Then do the same operation, only with the “-” terminal. If the control lamp lights up, then the diode being tested is broken.

If one of the diodes fails, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge assembly.

A malfunction of the stator winding can be determined with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the rectifier unit mounting bolts. If there is no contact between them, then there is a winding break. In this case, the winding or generator assembly is changed.

Probably the most common cause of generator failure is brush wear. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly. The length of the brushes must be more than 5 mm, otherwise they need to be replaced. Brushes can also become jammed or skewed in the wells.

Where to start checking

If the VAZ 2107 battery icon does not light up, the voltmeter gives normal readings, but the battery does not charge, which means there is no (or insufficient) contact at the terminals. Their severe oxidation can cause the voltage from the generator to the battery simply not to flow. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the terminals, thoroughly clean them, as well as the battery terminals, then reconnect the battery to the on-board network and check the functionality of the charging system.

In the case when the voltage on the VAZ 2107 battery is still below normal, you need to measure it at the output from the generator with the engine running. Is there a big difference between the readings on the terminal and on the battery? Try cleaning the contacts and checking the wire connecting the battery to the generator. Broken - requires replacement.

The next element that is checked is the generator drive belt. If it becomes loose, it will slip along the pulley, which is why the generator will not be able to generate the required amount of electricity. And although charging will be carried out (provided the circuit is in good condition), it will not be enough. At the same time, the engine is running, the voltmeter shows the norm. However, if the system is loaded a little more - for example, by turning on the headlights - then the voltage drops sharply. Then, if the battery charge on a VAZ 2107 disappears, this indicates that the tension belt is loose and slipping. The belt should be tightened; if it wears out during operation, replace it. But you can’t overtighten either: excess belt tension puts an overload on the pumps and generator bearings.

The third component of the circuit that is checked during the initial diagnosis is fuse No. 10 (in the fuse box). It is he who is responsible for supplying voltage to the battery: the VAZ 2107 battery charging fuse has blown - the system will not work.

If everything is in order with the terminals, belt, fuse, the reasons for poor charging of the VAZ 2107 battery need to be looked for further.

autovazremont › Blog › The battery light does not light up, the VAZ-2107 is not charging. What to do?

Recently, returning from work, the following situation arose with me - when I turned on the ignition, the battery charge indicator lamp stopped lighting, the charging itself disappeared, and the voltmeter needle showed only the battery charge level.

Therefore, having somehow reached home, I decided to find out the reason and, after rummaging on the Internet, got to work.

First, a little theory: when the engine is running, a dead battery is charged with a constant voltage of 13.6-14.2 V from the car’s on-board network through the generator. Due to the different speeds of the engine crankshaft, in order to maintain the specified voltage, a voltage regulator (PP, “pill”, “chocolate”) is included in the generator excitation circuit, which, when the voltage in the network increases above the rated one, reduces the current going to the generator excitation winding. The magnetization of the rotor poles decreases, which leads to a decrease in its output voltage. Therefore, the reasons that the generator does not charge the battery are associated with the elements of the “excitation circuit” or the “generator-battery” output voltage circuit, including the generator itself. When the ignition is turned on, the lock (14) also turns on the ignition relay (13). In this case, +12V from the battery (1) passes through the relay contacts and fuse No. 10 of the mounting block, then is supplied to the on-board network and to the output of the battery charge indicator lamp (11) and the charging sensor in the instrument panel (12). After this, they go through the diode, the mounting block (10) (plugs Ш5-Ш10), are fed to plug “61” of the generator and go to the terminal of the built-in PP (7) and through the brush and contact ring to the excitation winding (8) - the starting excitation of the generator (4). As the engine speed increases, and with it the generator rotor, the phase voltage increases, and through a block of additional diodes (3) it increases the voltage on the excitation winding and on the output diode of the battery charging indicator lamp. When the output phase voltage reaches +12V at both terminals of the battery lamp, the voltage is equalized, and due to the absence of a voltage difference, it goes out (as when starting a car). In this case, the generator produces a voltage greater than 12V, which charges the battery through output “30”.

Thus, in order to eliminate the problem, we need to sequentially check all elements of the system, starting with the elements of the “excitation circuit” and ending with the “generator-battery” circuit. We arm ourselves with a multimeter, an indicator screwdriver or a light bulb with a wire, and begin:

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No battery charging on VAZ 2107

In order for the use of your “seven” to bring benefit and pleasure, and not grief, you need to have a well-charged battery on it. The battery must be constantly recharged throughout the operation of the car, for which the VAZ 2107 generator generates charging voltage. Like any system in a car, the battery charging system sometimes fails and then the charge is lost. Therefore, during operation, the question is often asked why the battery is not charging. In this case, it will be useful for car owners to find out why the generator does not charge or why there is no charge on the VAZ 2107.

Confronting attackers

Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”

Experts offer several options for preventing theft.

• Secure parking or secure garage.
• installation .
• Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
• Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
• Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.

A little theory

The reasons that the generator does not charge the battery are related to the elements of the excitation circuit or the output voltage circuit from the generator to the battery, including parts of the generator.

When the ignition is turned on, the lock also turns on the ignition relay. In this case, +12 V passes through the relay contacts and fuse No. 10 of the mounting block, then is supplied to the on-board network and to the output of the battery charge indicator lamp and the charging sensor. Then they go through the diode, the mounting block (plugs Ш5-Ш10), and are fed to plug “61” of the generator 37.3701, which have been installed on the VAZ 2107 since 1988. Next, +12 V goes to the terminal of the built-in PP and through the brush and slip ring to the winding excitation - the starting excitation of the generator is performed. As the engine speed increases, and with it the generator rotor, the phase voltage increases, and through a block of additional diodes it increases the voltage on the excitation winding and on the output diode of the battery charging indicator light. When the output phase voltage reaches +12 V at both terminals of the battery lamp, the voltage is equalized, and due to the absence of a voltage difference, it goes out. In this case, the VAZ 2107 generator produces a voltage of more than 12 V, which charges the battery.

The electrical circuit diagram of the VAZ 2107 car injector differs from the circuit diagram of the VAZ 2107 carburetor only in the presence of a piece of equipment that controls the power system, and does not affect the battery charge. Quite the contrary - malfunctions in the battery charging system can affect the operation of the injection engine ECU.

Powerful electricity consumers are controlled using electromagnetic relays connected to the network. Let's look at ways to troubleshoot battery charging problems for both injection and carburetor engines.

How to determine the lack of battery charge

Checking the battery charge

The easiest way to determine the lack of charging is using the car’s instruments, that is, the charging indicator lamp and the sensor (voltmeter) on the instrument panel. The sensor arrow should be in the green sector, and the battery lamp should not light up when the engine is running. Otherwise there is no charging.

But the best way is to check the voltage on the battery with a multimeter. When there is a charge, the voltage on it lies in the range of 13.6-14.2 V, and when there is no charge, it will only have its own voltage of 12 V (± 0.6 V). Under no circumstances remove the terminals from the battery to check to avoid damage to the RR, ECU and other electronic devices on your car.

To troubleshoot battery charging problems, you must use the following tools:

• control lamp 12 V;
• multimeter with a measuring range of up to 60 V AC and DC voltage;
• flat blade screwdriver;
• shaped screwdriver with a Phillips blade;
• pliers;
• knife;
• emery cloth.

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