Where is the fuel pump relay located on a 16-valve injection VAZ-2112


Fuses and relays VAZ 2110 / 2111 / 2112

This article will be useful both to ordinary car enthusiasts, owners of VAZ 2110, 2111 and VAZ 2112 cars, and to auto electricians. Here we will analyze the location of fuses and relays of the VAZ 2110. Several types of mounting blocks were installed. They can be distinguished visually by the location of the relays and fuses.

This fuse box is located under the steering wheel, near the driver's left foot.

Mounting block (fuse block) 2110-3722010

Mounting block (fuse block) 2110-3722010-01

Mounting block (fuse block) 2110-3722010-08

In the first two blocks, the location of the fuses is no different, but in the third type of blocks you should be more careful and pay attention to the markings of the fuses.

These blocks may also differ in the presence of resistors inside the block. Resistors are needed to excite the generator, and the presence of a resistor can be recognized by the presence of a contact in Ш4 - contact 9. Resistors are used on old devices; without resistors, excitation will occur only during re-gassing.

Location of the relay in the fuse box (Mounting block) VAZ 2110 / 2111 / 2112

Relay numberRelay purpose
K1Lamp health monitoring relay
K2Windshield wiper relay
K3Turn signal or hazard warning relay
K4Low beam relay
K5High beam relay
K6Additional relay (Relay that supplies power after the ignition is turned on)
K7Heated rear window relay
K8 Backup relay
Fuse No.Fuse Rating A (Ampere)Circuits protected by a fuse
F15Front and rear left side light lamps, side-light indicator lamp, instrument lighting lamps, trunk light lamp, license plate light
F27.5Low beam (left headlight)
F310High beam (left headlight)
F410Front right fog lamp
F530Door window lifters
F615On some cars - VAZ 2110 cigarette lighter fuse
and portable lamp
F720VAZ 2110 cooling fan fuse
, sound signal
F820Relay (contact relay) for turning on the heated rear window, heated rear window
F920Windshield and headlight cleaner and washer. Recirculation valve. Coil of the rear window heating relay.
F1020Spare
F115Front and rear right side lamps
F127.5Low beam (right headlight)
F1310High beam (right headlight), high beam indicator on the dashboard
F1410Left fog lamp
F1520Trunk lock fuse VAZ 2110,
Electric seat heating
F1610Fuse relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode). Hazard warning lamp
F177.5VAZ 2110 interior lamp fuse,
brake lights, clock and trip computer
F1825On some vehicles : Cigarette lighter fuse,
heater controller and glove compartment light
F1910Relay for monitoring the health of the side lamps and brake lights, direction indicators and their indicator lamps, generator excitation winding, instrument cluster, clock, door locks, reverse lamps
F207.5Rear fog lights

There are also fuses responsible for starting the engine. They are located under the center console. You can get to them by unscrewing the panel near the passenger's left foot.

This block houses the fuses and relays responsible for the fuel pump, electronic control unit and cooling fan.

1 — ignition module, electronic control unit; 2 — canister purge valve, vehicle speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor (sensor heating), mass air flow sensor (mass air flow sensor pinout HFM5 VAZ); 3 - fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse, fuel injector fuse.

Additional relays: 4 - electric fan relay; 5 - fuel pump relay, 6 - main relay (ignition relay)

Why doesn't the cigarette lighter work?

The cigarette lighter consists of a metal cup with contact plates and a bimetallic retainer and an insert with an incandescent coil. Electric current flows through the heating element after pressing the insert. After heating to a given temperature, the bimetallic clamps lose their elasticity; the built-in spring pushes the insert away from the contact plates. The connection diagram includes an additional wire for the socket illumination lamp.

If the cigarette lighter in a VAZ-2112 does not work, then the cause of the malfunction is:

  • burnt-out filament coil;
  • oxidized or rusted contacts inside the cartridge;
  • broken wiring harness;
  • damage to the protective fuse.

Fuse blown

Sometimes the device does not need to be replaced. It is enough to change the fuse located inside the device itself. The procedure is carried out as follows.

  1. Open the hood and remove the negative terminal from the battery. You can also remove the fuse from the mounting block that is responsible for the cigarette lighter of the VAZ 2110.
  2. We unscrew the four fasteners of the tunnel covering and remove both parts of the lining.
  3. Disconnect the three-pin plug going to the cigarette lighter.
  4. Remove the lining under the handbrake lever.
  5. Remove the gearshift lever cover.
  6. We move the seats back, and then unscrew the three fastenings of the upper part of the tunnel and remove it.
  7. Pull out the cartridge.
  8. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cigarette lighter latch so that it comes out of the seat.
  9. We remove the nest from the cladding for subsequent repairs.

Inside the cigarette lighter is a miniature mica plate. It is a semiconductor that sometimes breaks and melts. It needs to be removed. After this, it is worth assembling the unit and then checking the functionality of the device.

Where is the fuse box


A separate section of the chain is protected by a special element.
The current strength is calculated for certain values. Due to a short circuit in the cigarette lighter, this parameter may be outside the acceptable range. To prevent wire melting or fire, a thin metal bridge in the fuse blows. Therefore, replacement with a working element is required. Evidence that the fuse on the VAZ has blown will be the failure of not only the cigarette lighter, but also additional devices. This element is part of the circuit going to the stove, radio and glove compartment lamp. If all these devices fail, you should get to the mounting block and replace them.

Principle of operation

VAZ 2110 stalls, the fuel pump relay clicks

The operating principle is as follows:

  • the relay uses a classic contact closure circuit;
  • the relay core is represented by a classic coil;
  • manual supply of the closing and opening signal is also involved.

Today, a modern European car is almost completely automated and the concept of “a car won’t start” is practically not found in economically developed countries. This phenomenon is primarily explained by the automation of the relay operation. In particular, the frequency of contact closure controls the built-in on-board control system, plus the material from which the wiring is made has increased electrically conductive properties. This, in turn, allows for more economical and efficient use of material and technical capabilities:

  • Firstly, relay wiring from European manufacturers consists of high-tech alloys, this in turn allows you to avoid such phenomena as wiring burnout as a result of electrical short circuits.
  • Secondly, the speed of current conduction is quite high, which ensures almost instantaneous transmission of an electrical impulse from point A to the final conditional point B.

Note. Despite the multiple advantages of relays from European manufacturers, from a practical point of view they are inaccessible to the average motorist. Due to the narrow technical range of compatibility and fairly high price.

The video shows all the stages of diagnosing a fuel pump.

Video example: taking power from the main relay connector

If it doesn’t show correctly about + - 3 liters, then this is an error, but it’s better to install an on-board computer, it gives more accurate indicators, there’s no need to immediately go into the weeds.

My fuel pump stopped working when the engine control unit failed)).

I'm already tired of this little motor. I turn on the ignition, the relay clicks, the pump does not pump. I put my hand in the passenger’s legs, move the wires, it doesn’t help. I use a screwdriver and tap the relay. After these actions, the pump starts pumping when the ignition is turned on again.

It gets worse, now the pump fails when driving!

I searched everything there, swapped relays, fuses, felt how many wires go under the panel, nothing!

I'm so sick of this car already! It also stalls when you pull up to a traffic light at speed 3 and pull out the gear, the engine can’t hold the speed and stalls! I changed the TPS, XX, cleaned the throttle, etc., etc., the problem is not solved!

On the Drive2Ru forum, I started talking, they assured me that I’m not the only one, there are thousands like me! and no one can find the reason why the engine doesn’t keep the low speed bar and fails.

just like vibration at 100 km/h in the steering wheel.

and balanced the wheels in different service stations and changed the rims and mortars. bearings and brakes wheels, completely changed the entire suspension, the problem was NOT SOLVED! It hit the steering wheel for 100 km and continues to do so!

But the sensors are a separate issue! I constantly drove with a burning check. I'm tired of paying 450 rubles for a computer. diagnostics I bought BC ORION 10. Now it gives me errors. either low voltage at the TPS, or a knock sensor, etc. what kind of sensors are these that work so little and you need to run for a new one?

In the morning you start it, the speed is xx 1500 and rises to 2000 by itself! turned it off, started it, and it was fine. warmed up, drove off, stopped somewhere at an intersection, rpm 1300-1500 at 90C!

and this is ALWAYS the case, something is always preventing you from just driving, these little things are already infuriating!

The tire got a flat, I took it to the service station, they fixed it, pumped it up and drove on. Everything is clear here. and this electrician, it dried up the whole brain, how raw and unfit for use everything was.

some old Toyota, from the 80s, with an archaic injector does not cause such problems, everything works like a clock.

and VAZ is a car from Hell and for devils.

Check the mass air flow sensor. I had this on a viburnum and it didn’t work correctly. The voltage on it should be about.96-1.01, but mine showed 1.06. I changed it and the stalling stopped.

For me, on the contrary, I turn on the ignition, the pump works and does not turn off, I turn off the ignition, it turns off after 30 seconds.

When the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump does not work, the relays and fuses are fine. Could there be a reason for the lock? Or phase sensor - error 0343? Thank you!

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This is how your error is deciphered:

P0343 Camshaft sensor signal high.

But the fuel pump should operate already at the stage of turning on the ignition, regardless of this sensor. Most likely the fuel pump itself died. Is the starter turning or what?

Video with reasons for fuse failure

There are additional faults that can cause the device to break down. These include.

  1. Bad contacts. Over time or heavy use, the connection inside the cigarette lighter may become loose. Incorrect connection of devices leads to loose sockets and poor contact. This can be treated by bending the metal tendrils on the cartridge or by resoldering.
  2. With age, oxides or rust appear on the cigarette lighter, which has a bad effect on its operation. The situation can be corrected by treating the contact areas with a needle file. It is necessary to clean them and remove all traces of corrosion on the cigarette lighter. Another malfunction of the cigarette lighter on a VAZ is a burnt-out nichrome spiral. It is recommended to replace the device here.

Due to these factors, the protective element can also burn out. The video below will help you figure out where the fuse is located and how to repair the VAZ 2110 cigarette lighter.

Source

Electrical diagram of the VAZ-21104 ECM with controller 21124-1411020-30/31/32

1 — block of the ignition coil wiring harness to the ignition system harness; 2 — block of the ignition system harness to the ignition coil wiring harness; 3 — ignition coils; 4 — immobilizer warning sensor; 5 — immobilizer control unit; 6 — spark plugs; 7 — nozzles; 8 — diagnostic block; 9 — block of the ignition system harness to the ABS cabin group harness; 10 - controller; 11 — electric fuel pump; 12 — block of the ignition system harness to the fuel level sensor harness; 13 — block of the fuel level sensor harness to the ignition system harness; 14 — block of the ignition system harness to the injector harness; 15 — injector harness block to the ignition system harness; 16 — block of the ignition system harness to the side door harness; 17 — speed sensor; 18 — idle speed regulator; 19 — throttle position sensor; 20 — coolant temperature sensor; 21 — mass air flow sensor; 22 — oil pressure warning lamp sensor; 23 - phase sensor; 24 — oxygen sensor; 25 — crankshaft position sensor; 26 — knock sensor; 27 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 28 — oil level sensor; 29 — coolant temperature indicator sensor; 30 — block of the ignition system harness to the instrument panel harness; 31 — block of the instrument panel harness to the ignition system harness; 32 — ignition relay; 33 - ignition relay fuse; 34 — fuse for the electric fuel pump power supply circuit; 35 — electric fuel pump relay; 36 — electric fan relay; 37 — controller power supply fuse; 38 — ignition system harness block to the air conditioner connector; 39 — instrument cluster; 40 — ignition switch; 41 — electric fan of the cooling system; 42 — on-board control system unit; 43 — starter relay; 44 — contacts of the 8-terminal blocks of the instrument panel harness and the front harness; 45 — contacts of the 21-terminal blocks of the instrument panel harness and the rear harness; 46 — trip computer; 47 - diagnostic connector.

What is a starter relay

The mechanism is designed to supply power to the electric starter motor. At this moment, charge is transferred from the battery. Simultaneously with the supply of energy, it performs the function of pushing out the bendix, while the element engages the flywheel. The starter relay on the VAZ-2112 determines whether the main mechanism will start and the engine will fire or not. If suddenly this device fails and does not turn on, you need to diagnose and repair it. To do this, you should study the detailed operating instructions and find out where the starter relay is located on the VAZ-2112.

Replacing the fuse


One of the most common causes of breakdown is failure of the protective element.
A clue that the fuse for the cigarette lighter has blown will be a non-working VAZ 2110 stove or a faulty glove compartment illumination lamp. To carry out repairs, it is necessary to replace the blown fuse in the mounting block. To get to the box, press the button in the front panel to the left of the steering wheel. The fuse to be checked is number F18, rated for a current of 25 amperes. It is convenient to use tweezers for replacement.

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