Fuel pump VAZ 2110 - common faults, causes of failure, self-replacement

On any passenger car with a gasoline engine, the gas pump serves to supply fuel under pressure from the fuel tank to the metering device - depending on the modification of the engine on VAZ cars, the fuel system can be carburetor or injection.

The fuel pump (BN) on carburetor internal combustion engines of the 2110 car is located behind the valve cover, next to the distributor-distributor; on a car with an injection engine, it is located in the fuel tank (submersible type). If the BN begins to malfunction, the engine does not pull or develop speed, and in many cases the engine cannot be started at all.

Fuel pump circuit (electric)

The design of the electric fuel pump 2110 itself is quite simple - the unit is an electric motor, which is supplied with 12 Volt power. The BN is mounted in a housing, and a mesh is installed at its inlet - a coarse filter. The filter element prevents dirt particles from penetrating into the pump housing, thereby protecting the device from clogging and possible breakdown.

The electrical circuit of the VAZ fuel pump contains the following elements:

• ignition;
• fuse;
• relay;
• wiring;
• the engine control unit.

When you turn the ignition key, power is supplied through the relay to the BN terminals, and the pump begins to pump gasoline. After the input line of the fuel line is filled with gasoline, the ECU (control unit) through a relay gives a command to turn off the voltage - the fuel system is ready to start the engine, all that remains is to crank the engine with the starter.

Pinout BN VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The fuel pump activation relay (2) is shown by an arrow.

1 — nozzles; 2 — spark plugs; 3 — ignition module; 4 — diagnostic block; 5 - controller; 6 — block connected to the instrument panel harness; 7 - main relay; 8 - main relay fuse; 9 — electric fan relay; 10 — controller power supply fuse; 11- electric fuel pump relay; 12 — fuel pump power circuit fuse; 13 — mass air flow sensor; 14 — throttle position sensor; 15 — coolant temperature sensor; 16 — idle speed regulator; 17 — knock sensor; 18 — crankshaft position sensor; 19- oxygen sensor; 20- APS control unit; 21 — APS status indicator; 22 — speed sensor; 23 — electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor; 24 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 25 — block connected to the ignition system harness; 26 — instrument cluster; 27 — ignition relay; 28 — ignition switch; 29 — mounting block; 30 — electric fan of the cooling system;

A - to terminal “B+” of the generator; B - block connected to block K of the ignition system harness; C - block connected to block L of the ignition system harness; D - wire connected to the interior lamp switch; E - wire connected to the white and black wires disconnected from the interior lamp switch; F - to the “+” terminal of the battery; G1, G2 - grounding points; K - block connected to block B of the front harness; L — block connected to block C of the front harness.

On “nines” with a mechanical fuel pump, the most common malfunction is wear of the fuel pump diaphragm, as a result of which gasoline will leak through the drainage hole in the housing when it operates. The second reason for the failure of such a fuel pump is wear of the pusher, which transmits force from the camshaft cam to the fuel pump drive lever.

Fuel pump relay VAZ 2110

A relay in any electrical circuit is designed to close and open a circuit; its main role is to protect the elements of the electrical circuit from high inrush current. When starting an internal combustion engine, the current required to crank the starter reaches 80-300 Amps, and if the relay is not installed, any element of the electrical circuit may be damaged.

The VAZ 2110 fuel pump relay is a standard type; inside the plastic case there is an electromagnetic coil with a core; when voltage is applied, the contacts are closed due to the electromagnetic field. Relay 2110 is a four-pin relay, rated for a current of 30 Amps.

Video instructions for replacement

In this short article you will learn about the VAZ 2110 fuel pump relay. Such a device can be found not only on tens, but also on nines (injection), as well as more modern Priors and Grants. But why is this relay needed and what to do if it fails? This is what we will now try to figure out. But it’s worth starting with the principle of operation of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110 car.

Where is the fuel pump relay for VAZ 2110 injector?

Often, due to a relay failure, the engine stops starting; to fix the problem, it is necessary to replace the faulty part. The fuel pump relay (RB) of the VAZ 2110 injector is located in the car interior, under the instrument panel, next to the center console. To get to the pump, you need to unscrew the two screws of the protective plastic casing and dismantle it - of the three elements located here, the “relay” responsible for the operation of the pump will be located in the center (in the figure below, number 5).

Additional block

It is located under the center console and is covered with a lid. One part is accessible from the right side.

Designation

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1. 15A - Ignition module, controller
2. 15A - Canister purge valve, vehicle speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor (heating), air flow sensor
3. 15A - fuel pump, fuel pump fuse, injectors
4. Electric fan relay
5. Fuel pump relay
6. Main relay (ignition relay)

The other part is on the left side of the console:

Decoding

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1. Central locking control unit
2. Immobilizer block
3. Relay for turning on rear fog lights.

On our channel we also prepared a video on this publication. Watch and subscribe.

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Do you know how to make the material better? Write in the comments.

Gasoline pump VAZ 2110 injector price

Electric fuel pumps 2110 are produced by various manufacturers; they can be sold either assembled with a housing, or the electric motors themselves can be sold separately. It makes sense to change the BN assembly only when the bulb (body) of the device is damaged; more often than not, only the fuel pump motor itself requires replacement, since it basically stops working.

Main manufacturers of fuel pumps 2110-2112:

For VAZ 2110 injector fuel pumps, the cost may vary; on average, BN can be purchased at a price from 700 to 4500 rubles. The most inexpensive products are produced by Hofer and Pekar; the average price of an electric fuel pump (motor) complete with a Pekar mesh filter is about 800 rubles. The most expensive are Bosch BNs; the cost of the assembled device is 4300-4600 rubles.

Changing the fuel pump yourself

If the fuel pump in the VAZ does not pump, and all of the above system components are normal, it is necessary to clean the filters, and, if necessary, completely replace the unit.

Before starting work, you must completely drain the fuel from the gas tank. To do everything with our own hands, we need a screwdriver and a set of keys. Replacing the VAZ 2114 fuel pump is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. We de-energize the car by removing the “-” terminal from the battery;
2. We take out the rear row of passenger seats;
3. Unscrew the plastic cap that covers the pump;
4. Remove the power wires from the device and disconnect the fuel supply hoses;
5. We dismantle the main fastenings of the fuel pump; for this we need the 7th key;
6. Now you can remove the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114 and remove the device.

It must be removed carefully, since the float sensor for determining the fuel level is a very delicate structure that is easy to damage. Inspect the fuel pump - if necessary, clean or replace the strainer, however, it may be necessary to completely replace the unit.

Replacing the fuel pump mesh for VAZ 2110 injector

Russian fuel does not always meet quality requirements, and over time, due to poor gasoline, dirt accumulates in the gas tank in the form of sediment. The debris also clogs the filter screen of the electric fuel pump; due to the accumulated dirt, the fuel does not fully enter the fuel line, causing interruptions in the operation of the internal combustion engine. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to clean or replace the coarse filter, but to get to the mesh, you need to remove the BN.

Before starting disassembly, you should reduce the pressure in the fuel system, otherwise, when unscrewing the fuel line fittings, gasoline may escape in a stream and flood the entire interior of the car. To relieve the pressure, remove the fuse responsible for the operation of the BN, start the engine and wait until it stalls. We replace the VAZ 2110 injector fuel pump mesh as follows:

• turn off the ignition;
• in the back seat in the cabin we find hinges, and by pulling them, we fold the lower “seats” forward (right and left);
• there is a hatch on the bottom under the seat, it is secured with two self-tapping screws;

• unscrew the screws and dismantle the hatch;

• disconnect the plug from the wires that supply power to the electric fuel pump; to do this, bend the latch and forcefully pull the parts of the connector away from each other;

• unscrew the fittings of the fuel pipes - main supply and return (17 mm wrench);

• unscrew the nuts of the pressure plate of the used pump (there are 8 fasteners here, 7 mm wrench);

• The nuts are small, it is better to put them in some kind of jar so as not to lose them. Remove the plate and remove the pump assembly from the gas tank. You need to remove the fuel pump together with the rubber sealing ring and lift the pump carefully so as not to damage the fuel level sensor. When removing the BN housing, it is necessary to tilt it, otherwise it will not come out of the tank;
• remove the screen from the fuel pump and install a new part;
• We install the electric fuel pump in place. Here it is important to put the housing in the old places - if you move the used pump, it will be impossible to tighten the fuel line fittings.

Pinout BN VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

— block headlights; — gearmotors for headlight cleaners*; - fog lights*; — ambient temperature sensor; - sound signals; — engine compartment lamp switch; — electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; — generator; — low oil level indicator sensor; — washer fluid level sensor; — front brake pad wear sensor; — wire tips connected to the common windshield washer pump**; — windshield washer pump; — headlight washer pump*; — wire ends for connecting to the rear window washer pump on VAZ-2113 and VAZ-2114 cars; — low oil pressure indicator sensor; — engine compartment lighting lamp; — wire lug for connecting to the wiring harness of the engine control system; — gear motor for windshield wiper; — starter; — a block connected to the wiring harness of the ignition system on carburetor cars; — coolant temperature indicator sensor; — reversing light switch; — low brake fluid level indicator sensor; - accumulator battery; — low coolant level indicator sensor; — relay for turning on fog lights; - mounting block; — brake light switch; — plug socket for a portable lamp; — hydrocorrector scale illumination lamp; — switch for the parking brake indicator lamp; — block for connecting a backlight lamp; — switch for instrument lighting lamps; - Understeering's shifter; - hazard warning switch; — front seat heating element relay; — ignition switch; — rear fog light circuit fuse; - fuse for the front seat heating elements; — door lock circuit fuse; — front ashtray illumination lamp; — ignition relay; - cigarette lighter; — glove box lighting lamp; — switch for the glove compartment lighting lamp; — heater fan electric motor; — additional resistor for the heater electric motor; — heater fan switch; - heater switch illumination lamp; — lamp for illuminating the heater levers; — gear motors for electric windows of the front doors; — power window switch for the right front door (located in the right door); — gear motors for locking front door locks; — wires for connecting to the right front speaker; — gearmotors for locking rear doors; — wires for connecting to the right rear speaker; — door lock control unit; — wires for connection to radio equipment; — headlight cleaner switch*; — rear window heating element switch; — relay for turning on the rear fog lights; — block for connection to the heating element of the right front seat; — rear fog light switch; — switch for the heating element of the right front seat; — fog light switch*; — switch for external lighting lamps; — left front seat heating element switch; — block for connection to the heating element of the left front seat; — wires for connecting to the left front speaker; — power window switch for the left front door (located in the left door); — power window switch for the right front door (located in the left door); — wires for connecting to the left rear speaker; — side direction indicators; — courtesy light switches on the front door pillars; — courtesy light switches on the rear door pillars; - lampshade; — ceiling lamp for individual interior lighting; — block for connecting to the wiring harness of the electric fuel pump; — trunk light switch; — instrument cluster; — trunk lighting lamp; — display unit of the on-board control system; - trip computer*; — block for connecting the wiring harness of the engine control system; — rear exterior lights; — rear interior lights; — pads for connecting to the rear window heating element; — license plate lights; — additional brake signal located on the spoiler.

Malfunctions of the electric fuel pump 2110

If the pump stops working, there may be several reasons for the malfunction:

• electrical wiring is damaged;
• fuse burned out;
• the relay stopped working;
• BN motor burned out;
• The engine control unit has failed.

When a driver in a car with a VAZ 2110-12 injection engine turns on the ignition, the electric motor starts working - a characteristic buzzing sound is heard. If no sounds are noted, it means that the BN is not pumping fuel.

The easiest way is to check the electric fuel pump fuse, which is located almost in the same place as the relay, located to the left of the RB.

If the fuse is blown, it must be replaced. It often happens that when replacing a fuse, it immediately blows. The main reasons for the malfunction of this phenomenon:

• the fuel pump itself “shorts”;
• There is a short circuit in the electrical wiring.

Another characteristic malfunction of the electric fuel pump is that fuel is pumped, but the operation is accompanied by loud noise. A noisy fuel pump is a sure sign that this device will not “live” for long and will soon fail.

Principle of operation

To make it easier for you to understand the electrical circuit of the 2110 with the injector system, let’s consider its structure and the principle of operation itself.

So, the following take part in the process:

• Electronic control unit.
• Relay for turning on the fuel unit.
• Fuses that protect the electrical circuit of the device from overloads.

Electrical circuit of the VAZ 2110
In practice, the fuel unit starts working the moment the key is turned and ignites one turn. Before starting the engine, listen - at this moment you can hear the device starting to work and pumping gasoline.

How to test a relay

If the electric fuel pump does not show any signs of life when the ignition is turned on, this does not mean that it has burned out. The cause of the malfunction may also be a relay. The easiest way to check the RB by ear is that when you turn on the ignition, the relay should click. If you don’t hear a click, there is a high probability that the “relay” is faulty.

But not everything is so simple - the problem can be “tricky”, for example, the car does not start the first time. The cause of the malfunction may be hidden in burnt relay contacts. It’s quite simple to check the functionality of the pump itself; proceed as follows:

• remove the protective casing, under which there is a block with relays and fuses;
• we unscrew the fastenings of the block, remove it, it remains attached to the wires;
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• we pull the RB out of the block, place a jumper between two opposite contacts, thus directly supplying power to the BN;

• If, with such a connection, the electric motor of the pump begins to make noise, it means that the BN itself is working, most likely, the malfunction is hidden in the relay.

If there is no voltage on any of the contacts on the RB block, you should look for a break in the wiring; there may also be poor contact at the place where the wire is attached to the terminal.

Checking the fuel rail pressure

But even the fact that the fuel pump starts pumping when the ignition is turned on does not mean that it is working properly. The main indicator of its operation is the pressure in the system. You can check it using a regular pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 atmospheres, which is used to measure tire pressure. In addition, you will need a piece of gas-resistant hose with an internal diameter of 9 mm and two clamps of the appropriate size.

The verification procedure is as follows:

1. We relieve the pressure in the system. To do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. We remove the plastic lining of the additional mounting block, which contains the relay and fuse for the gasoline pump. We remove the fuse from the socket. Connect the removed terminal to the battery. We start the engine and let it run until it stalls. After that we put the fuse in place.
2. On the fuel rail we find a fitting specially designed for measuring pressure. Using the wheel valve cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting.

The fitting is designed specifically for measuring pressure

A regular tire pressure gauge is suitable for measuring fuel pressure in the rail.

For engines with a volume of 1500 cm 3 it should be 2.8–3.2 atmospheres, and for power units with a volume of 1600 cm 3 – 3.6–4 atmospheres. If the device indicators are lower, the pump is unsuitable for further use.

Fuel check valve

The electric fuel pump of the VAZ “Ten” has good performance, but it creates too much pressure in the fuel system. In order to bring the pressure back to normal, a VAZ 2110 fuel pump valve is built into the fuel line; it is located in the “outlet” fitting of the BN housing. On the “tens”, a pressure regulator is also installed, which is located behind the fuel rail.

A valve malfunction involves a ball sticking in the open position, and the fuel pressure in the system may drop to zero. If such a problem occurs, the car is very difficult to start, since all the gasoline from the fuel lines goes back into the gas tank when the ignition is turned off. Is it possible to somehow repair the valve?

Drivers of 2110 cars claim that you can try knocking on the fitting in the BN flask so that the shut-off ball falls into place. If the malfunction cannot be eliminated in this way, the electric fuel pump bulb must be replaced, since this housing itself is non-separable.

Purpose

Electric fuel pump VAZ 2110

The principle operation of an electric fuel pump is based on pushing fuel under pressure into the engine. Conventional VAZ fuel pumps suck gasoline from the gas tank; a small gap from the pump to the carburetor allows it to operate at low pressure. Electric fuel pumps of the first VAZ cars worked at the same speed. The industry has launched the production of pumps that meet the growing requirements of the automotive industry; now their operation is completely dependent on the speed of the engine.

Note. The vehicle's electronic system controls the operation of the fuel pump. It corresponds to several factors: ambient temperature, what position the throttle is in, and the composition of the exhaust gases.

Electric fuel pumps operate under pressure, resulting in increased noise and rapid heating. For these reasons, they are installed in the gas tank. Gasoline cools and muffles the sound of the running pump.

Mechanical fuel pump "tens" VAZ

The VAZ 2110 (Lada-110) car has been produced at AvtoVAZ since 1995, and the first engines on this model came with carburetors. Eight-valve VAZ 2110 engines with a power of 72 hp. With. were set to “tens” until 2000, and the fuel pumps on these internal combustion engines, accordingly, were mechanical.

The 2110 mechanical fuel pump consists of parts:

• metal case (two halves);
• top cover;
• pusher with diaphragm;
• two valves;
• return spring.

Gasoline is pumped from the fuel tank by oscillating the diaphragm and opening and closing valves. The diaphragm with a pusher is driven by the camshaft eccentric; on the lower BN housing there is a manual pumping lever for gasoline.

Signs of a relay failure

The operation of the relay is important for the entire vehicle. If the part fails, the engine may not start at all or stall. In some cars, the fuel supply system is designed in such a way that even if the relay breaks down, the fuel pumps continue to operate, but the amount of fuel consumed can increase significantly. Do not neglect the problem if it occurs, as this can lead to failure of the fuel pump. The main signs of a relay failure are:

1. The engine does not start because there is no fuel supplied to the system.
2. A constant hum from the fuel pump means the relay is not turning it off. Such a malfunction leads to excessive fuel consumption, battery discharge and premature wear.
3. The HP operates even when the motor reaches the maximum permissible speed.

All these signs are quite easy to detect, so there are no difficulties when replacing the relay to further normalize the operation of the car.

Mechanical fuel pump malfunctions

All parts of a car engine are subject to wear and aging, and the life of a mechanical fuel pump also depletes over time. Main malfunctions of the mechanical device:

• warping of hulls;
• cracking of the diaphragm;
• valve failures.

If the diaphragm allows air to pass through, the pump may stop pumping gasoline into the carburetor; through the torn diaphragm, fuel enters the crankcase and mixes with the engine oil. When gasoline gets into the oil, fuel consumption increases sharply, and the engine itself starts poorly, especially when warm. Checking the presence of gasoline in the crankcase is quite simple - if you light the oil dipstick with a lighter, a fire will occur, and a gasoline smell will come from the oil crankcase.

A common defect that occurs in mechanical gasoline pumps is warping of the surface at the point where the pump is attached to the body of the auxiliary units. If the surface is deformed, engine oil begins to leak at the joint between the planes.

Fuel coarse mesh in the fuel pump - why is it needed?

While driving, shifting into third or fourth gear and then pressing the gas pedal, there is no increase in power.

Additionally, a clogged grille can cause the engine's revs to drop while driving because the required amount of fuel simply isn't getting into the combustion chambers.

When to change the screen in the fuel pump?

The filter located in the gas pump, in the presence of dirt on it, subject to mandatory exchange, the price is not very good for this. However, if you find yourself in a situation where purchasing a new item is simply not an option, you can wash it.

Please note that the effect of cleaning the gas pump mesh will be temporary, and the exchange should be carried out as soon as possible

Fuel pump VAZ 2110 carburetor price

Unlike electric fuel pumps, mechanical fuel pumps are generally cheaper; the price largely depends on the manufacturer. The most famous companies producing gasoline pumps:

The cost of the device ranges from 350 to 850 rubles; repair kits are also sold for used mechanical pumps; the kit contains a diaphragm, rod, and valves. The repair kit is quite cheap - from 70 to 200 rubles, but it does not always make sense to carry out repairs, since the pump assembly itself is inexpensive.

An interesting fact is that the fuel pump for carburetor engines for the VAZ “ten” is suitable for the VAZ 2108-09-099 models, as well as for the Zhiguli VAZ-classic 2101-07. The “Classic” BN differs only in a slightly different arrangement of fuel fittings, and in order to install the pump from the “Classic” on a car 2110, it is necessary to use longer fuel hoses.

No power supplied

As the pinout indicates, there are 4 wires going to the pump:

• in the center - plus and minus;
• at the edges – fuel level control.

To check whether current is flowing, connect a light bulb (12 V) to the negative and positive contacts and turn on the ignition. If everything is in order, it will flare up. If there is no result, the plus and minus removed from the pump connector are connected in turn to its ground, and then to the relay block.

• the lamp (when the negative wire is connected to ground and the ignition is turned on) blinks, then this contact is damaged;
• the improvised indicator did not flash - there are problems with the plus.

If the wire is installed on the relay and the lamp lights up, there is a break between it and the pump. Disassemble the harness and replace the faulty wire. You don’t need pinouts in this situation either.

When it turns out that it was the pump motor that burned out, it will have to be replaced - it cannot be repaired.

VAZ 2110 fuel pump injector: signs of malfunction

So, fuel pump 2110, fuel pump 2112 and similar models are no different in their purpose from analogues on other cars. The device is electric, the main task is to supply fuel from the tank through the fuel lines, as well as maintain the required pressure in the fuel supply system.

As a rule, if the fuel pump of a VAZ 2110 fails, in this case there is no supply of gasoline to the engine, the running engine will simply stall, and when you try to start it will not be possible to start the internal combustion engine. However, it also happens that the pump on the “ten” or the fuel pump on the VAZ 2112 works, but there are interruptions in its operation. In this case, the following symptoms may appear:

• the engine jerks during operation, the “check” on the instrument panel lights up;
• during active acceleration, jerks and dips occur;
• at speeds above average and with the gas pedal fully pressed, there is not enough power, etc.

At the initial stage, insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the start position. The pump should make a characteristic hum. If you can hear it, it means all the wires are connected, that is, power is going to the pump.

It turns out that there is a high probability that everything is in order with the wiring and in-depth diagnostics need to be carried out. In this case, you first need to check the pressure in the fuel rail, which will determine whether the pump is pumping or not. If the pressure is not enough, then you need to get to the pump itself.

Diagnostics

If you cannot start the car, but the starter motor is working normally and there is a spark, check the fuel supply. If the pump is running and gasoline is flowing, you should continue to determine the cause. To initially check if the pump is working, simply open the tank cap, turn on the ignition and listen for the characteristic pumping sound.

Do not replace components immediately; first check the fuse for the fuel pump motor. Even if it is working, check the power with a multimeter or tester and check the relay. If the power is on, pump replacement is inevitable.

This is even more difficult if the pump is running, i.e. buzzes when turned on. First check the condition of the filter and clean it if it is clogged with foreign objects. Malfunctions can also be caused by malfunctions of spark plugs, injectors, sensors, pressure differences in the fuel line, etc. The pressure in the ramp, in turn, depends on the tightness of the line connection and the serviceability of the bypass valve.

It is worth noting that when the fuel pump is turned on but the engine is stopped, the pressure is measured using a pressure gauge. Lack of standard or serious deviation from it will be a sign of failure.

Checking the electrical circuit

Unlike carburetor engines, the fuel pump has a mechanical drive in the VAZ 2110/2112 injector, which is responsible for the operation of this device using special relays and fuses. Therefore, it is necessary to check these elements before diagnosing the pump itself. If at least one of them is faulty, the pump will not work at all.

Turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When the fuel pump is running, it makes a characteristic “whistling” sound when started. If this is not the case, then either the pump itself or one of the components in its power circuit is faulty.

The pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block inside the vehicle's center console. It can be accessed by removing the plastic cover (near the front passenger's left foot). It is held in place with several screws. Under the cover you will find three relays and three fuses. Typically, the fuel pump circuit protection element is located in the center.

To check the fuses, remove them from the socket and “test” them with a tester. Replace it if necessary and maintain the nominal value (15A). It is unlikely that you will be able to test a relay without specialized equipment. However, you can take another relay, for example, the radiator fan (far left) and install it in place of the one being tested. Turn the ignition on and listen to the fuel pump to make sure it is working. If so, purchase and install a new relay. If the problem persists, continue diagnostics.

Pressure check

To check your fuel pump pressure, you will need a pressure gauge. It will need to be connected to the fuel system, which is located under the hood of the VAZ 2110/2112. The pressure gauge will be connected to the fuel line fitting leading to the engine. If the pressure gauge shows pressure more than 3.3 kg/cm3 when rotating at idle, then there is definitely a problem with the fuel pump.

Be careful when connecting so as not to damage nearby hoses and wires.

If the pressure gauge shows pressure below 2.3 kgf/cm, the problem is not in the pump, but in another component - the filter.

These indicators allow you to immediately determine the nature of the fuel system malfunction.

Model VAZ 2110 fuel pump: check and replacement

Once you are convinced that the cause of the problem is the VAZ fuel pump, and not the wiring and fuel filter, you need to check this element. It often happens that the fuel pump mesh becomes clogged.

The fact is that the pump itself takes fuel from the tank, and from its lower part, where debris inevitably settles. To prevent dirt from the tank from getting into the engine power system and into the motor itself, the pump has a special mesh filter, which becomes dirty over time.

To remove or replace the fuel pump, you will need to prepare:

• screwdrivers, socket head and extension;
• spanners and spanners;
• It is also advisable to have a fire extinguisher, rags, etc. on hand;

All work must be carried out outdoors or in well-ventilated areas. Before starting work on removing the pump, the terminals from the battery must be removed! The main reason is that the pump is located directly in the gas tank, which means you have to deal with fuel and its vapors.

First of all, some nuances may occur on different engines, but the general procedure is the same regardless of the internal combustion engine:

• To make it clearer where the fuel pump is located on a VAZ with an injector, you need to remove the rear sofa, then remove the carpet, under which there is a protective cover for the fuel pump;
• Next, you will need to unscrew the screws securing the cover and move the cover to the side. Below it you can see the pump itself. Before removing the pump, remove dirt and dust that usually accumulates in this area. This is necessary to prevent contamination from entering the tank;
• By removing the protective cover and removing the dirt, you can see two fuel pipes and a wiring harness. First you need to disconnect the block of wires from the fuel pump connector (the block is secured with a latch that needs to be snapped off);
• Now you need to lower the pressure in the system so that gasoline does not spill out. To do this, just turn the engine with the starter. If the engine starts, let it run until it stalls. Next, you should crank the engine with the starter again. If the engine does not start, it means the pressure has dropped;
• Now the battery terminals are removed! By the way, some gasoline still remains in the fuel lines; this must be taken into account when removing them;
• On cars with different internal combustion engines, the fuel pump itself and the mountings of the fuel pipes, connector and wiring block may be different. On some motors the tubes are secured with clamps, on others there are nuts. It is important to consider that there are rubber rings at the ends of the tubes, which are replaced if they become unusable.

Choosing a fuel pump for the top ten - what to look for

When choosing a fuel pump for a VAZ 2110, confusion often occurs between the concepts: the fuel pump module and the fuel pump itself. In the first case we are talking about the assembly structure, which we remove from the tank, in the second case we are talking about the fuel pump motor .

The choice of a fuel pump is carried out according to the following criteria: reliability and quiet operation, because the quieter the pump operates, the more comfortable it is to use.

When choosing a fuel pump, you must purchase the same product with the same part number. Often, among many analogues, car enthusiasts highlight the Bosch fuel pump, which is used on 1.6-liter cars and is equipped with a fuel level pressure regulator.

Tips and tricks

If it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2110 pump or after removing the pump for preventative replacement/cleaning of the mesh, after completing the reassembly and installation of the pump, do not immediately install the rear sofa and the pump cover.

Additional verification will be required before doing this. To do this, you need to turn on the ignition and determine whether gasoline is leaking from the fuel pipes. Also, the smell of gasoline in the car interior, etc. is not allowed. If this is the case, then you need to determine the cause of the leak and replace the problematic elements, tighten the tube nuts, etc.

To make the selection accurate, the existing module must be removed from the car and purchased a similar one. Also, when choosing, you need to take into account the type of engine, since the pumps are different. Before purchasing, the fuel pump itself should also be inspected, its housing should be checked (cracks, dents, and defects are not allowed).

Removing the pumping unit

Before starting work, you must disconnect the terminal from the battery. This will prevent damage to electrical equipment. In addition, replacing the fuel pump may cause a fire.

Let's prepare tools and materials. To remove the VAZ-2110 fuel pump, you need the following:

1. Screwdriver.
2. 10mm socket wrench.
3. Collar.
4. Open-end wrench 13.
5. Rags.

The device itself is located under the rear seat cushion. To get to the installation location of the fuel pump 2110, you need to remove the seat. Under the casing we find a hatch. We unscrew the hatch. Disconnect the electrical drive connector.

Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the tips of the fuel pipes. We pull off the pipes. Using a spanner, unscrew the 8 nuts around the perimeter of the clamping ring. Release the flange.

There is a gasket under the pressure ring of the fuel pump 2110. The gasket is removed. It is better to change worn tires.

Then we raise the VAZ fuel pump together with the float. Gasoline will leak from the body. To avoid staining the interior, place a rag. There will be up to 1 liter of gasoline left in the old building. Drain it into the tank.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. There is an arrow on the top of the cover. It should point towards the trunk. This is the correct pump position.

When replacing, do not forget to remove the float and level sensor.

These spare parts are installed on the new structure.

All operations, including preparation, will take less than an hour. After replacement, perform a test. Start the engine. Finally, you should check the fuel pump, make sure the connections are tight and there are no leaks.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The fuel pump on a car is designed to supply fuel to the combustion chamber. Its operation is controlled using a relay. On a VAZ (depending on the model), the fuel supply unit can be electrical or mechanical - it all depends on the fuel supply system. On a fuel-injected car, the fuel pump is located in the tank. When the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the unit and it begins to pump fuel. If the required pressure is created in the system, the relay automatically turns off the fuel pump - the engine is ready to start.

Step-by-step installation with photo of the fuel pump

K-contact is a signal (spark-producing) B-contact is + 12V ignition

I connected the relay according to this diagram:

The relay itself looks like this.

This is what it looks like under the hood. I put the plugs on the mechanical fuel pump that were included with the EBN and haven’t started removing them yet, otherwise you never know.

Well, what can I say based on 2 weeks of experience in using this gas pump. The car drives and does not heat up even in the heat of 30+ degrees. 140 - 150 the car began to drive much better; there is enough gasoline, consumption has not increased, in general, so far everything is good.

The maximum speed at which it was driven

I found on a foreign website a diagram for controlling the fuel pump from the ignition, maybe it will be useful to someone. I soldered this myself and it works great, when you turn on the ignition the relay turns on for about 10 seconds, which is necessary to increase the pressure in the fuel system, then we start the relay again turns on the fuel pump while the ignition coil is working

How does the device work?

After the driver turns the key in the ignition switch, the relay begins its work. The part sends a signal to the fuel pump and it turns on for 2 - 3 seconds to achieve the required pressure in the rail. The relay turns off the pump and then it starts only when the engine is rotated by the starter or while driving. After stopping the engine, the relay turns off the fuel pump and relieves pressure. In the latest models of gasoline pumps, the device performs several additional functions:

1. Acceleration. If the automatic transmission needs to increase speed, the relay can additionally turn on the pump to supply more fuel.
2. Slowing down the engine speed. If the engine is running at maximum speed, the relay may temporarily turn off the fuel pump. Temporarily turning off the device allows you to normalize the number of engine revolutions.

A sign that the fuel pump is working is a slight hum. Normally, the hum lasts only a few seconds, but if the relay or other parts of the system fail, the device may not turn off for a long time or may not turn on at all.