Priora pulls poorly: we study possible causes of power loss

Lada Priora is a family of cars from the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, which replaced the Lada 110 family of cars. Priora has been significantly improved and finalized. But, as with most domestically produced cars, problems very often arise with it. One of the most common problems is that the car does not pull.

Whether a car pulls or not depends on many factors, most of which relate to the operation of the power plant. Although there is also a possibility of failure of other mechanisms of the Lada Priora.

If the car breaks down and does not move at all, then you can turn to professionals and call a tow truck, for example, https://volok-evakuator.ru/shaxov.php.

Priora pulls poorly: we study possible causes of power loss

Lada Priora is a family of cars from the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, which replaced the Lada 110 family of cars. Priora has been significantly improved and finalized. But, as with most domestically produced cars, problems very often arise with it. One of the most common problems is that the car does not pull.

Whether a car pulls or not depends on many factors, most of which relate to the operation of the power plant. Although there is also a possibility of failure of other mechanisms of the Lada Priora.

If the car breaks down and does not move at all, then you can turn to professionals and call a tow truck, for example, https://volok-evakuator.ru/shaxov.php.

Important: checking sensors

The answer to the question why the idle speed on a Priora fluctuates can often be this: one of the three sensors (IAC, TPS, MAF) is faulty. It's quite easy to check:

• Start the power plant.
• Disconnect the IAC power supply and analyze: the IAC frequency remains the same or the motor stalls - the sensor needs to be replaced. If the frequency has increased, the sensor is working.
• Restore power to the regulator.
• Remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and observe: the speed has increased - the mass air flow sensor is working; the engine has stalled - the mass air flow sensor should be replaced.
• Connect power to the TPS.
• Disconnect the block from the mass air flow sensor and analyze: the crankshaft rotation speed has increased - the mass air flow sensor is working, the engine stalls - the throttle position sensor is faulty.
• Attach the chip to the mass air flow sensor.

Loss of traction not related to the engine

If the engine operation does not raise suspicions and the car does not pull, then this indicates a clutch malfunction. Destruction of the clutch plate lining or damage to the springs leads to the fact that the clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox only partially, and clutch slippage occurs.

With such a malfunction, any car, including Priora, pulls very poorly.

It is quite easy to identify this malfunction. When slipping occurs, the driven disk linings overheat greatly and a specific smell appears. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing worn or damaged clutch elements.

How to Avoid Failures

Having talked about how to eliminate gas pedal failures that occur on a car, it is worth talking about how to completely avoid their occurrence. So, the most common cause of their occurrence is wear of the spark plugs. Therefore, you should always check their condition, prevent clogging and oxidation, and, if necessary, replace them.

In addition to spark plugs, high-voltage wires should also be periodically monitored (despite the fact that they have a long service life, core breaks and breakdowns of protection are far from uncommon).

Another very common cause is clogged filters, and especially the air filter. This element is a direct participant in the chain of formation of the working mixture, and that is why its contamination (or even damage) can immediately affect the operation of the engine.

Gasoline for VAZ 2114

The last thing you should pay attention to in order to avoid unpleasant gas failures is the quality of the fuel. If you notice that at the nearest gas station it has dropped significantly (and the car reacts to this), then you should not continue to use it - it is better to try to refuel at a pump of another company (or several companies)

In this way, you can find the highest quality gas station and ensure reliable operation of your car’s engine.

Loss of traction due to power system failure

But still, if a drop in power is noticed and the car pulls poorly, you need to look for the cause in the power unit.

As with most cars, on a Priora, if a malfunction such as loss of power occurs, the check should begin with the engine power system, ignition system and gas distribution mechanism.

Description

Diagnostics of fuel pump operation
If all fuel supply mechanisms are working properly, you should check the air supply system: You need to check the condition of the air filter; if it is heavily soiled, it should be replaced.

After checking the filter, you need to pay attention to the performance of the mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor.

If they malfunction, they provide the electronic control unit with readings that do not correspond to the driving mode, which leads to a loss of power in the Priora.

If everything is in order with the power system, and the car does not pull, you should check the oxygen concentration sensor in the exhaust gases, also known as a lambda probe. If it malfunctions, the car begins to over-consumption of fuel and loses power.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal? Does the Priora have trouble starting?

Good day, if you are faced with a problem when you press the gas and the revolutions lazily increase and at the same time the car does not start the first time, then read the article. In most cases, the cause of this phenomenon may be a problem in the fuel system. Most likely, your fuel pump strainer is clogged or it’s time to change the fuel filter. In this article, we will take the Priora from the VAZ family as an example, and consider replacing the fuel filter. The fuel filter on a Priora must be replaced every 30,000 kilometers, as recommended by the manufacturer. The filter on the Prior is located under the fuel tank in the rear of the car, between the rear wheels. It is best to replace the filter in an inspection hole or in a suspended state.

To replace, we will need two keys for 12 and 10, as well as a Phillips screwdriver. We will need to decompress, which means removing excess fuel from the system. Remove the rear seat and unscrew the two bolts on the hatch using a Phillips screwdriver.

We unhook the connector from the fuel pump, start the engine and let it run until the fuel in the system runs out.

Loosen the filter fastening with keys 10 and 12. Remove the right pipe from the filter by pressing the latch and moving it to the side. Be sure to take a small container, as about 200-300 grams of gasoline will drain from the detached pipe.

Remove the second pipe by also pressing the latch and moving it to the side. Now you can remove the filter by tilting it down; not a lot of gasoline will drain from it either.

Installation of a new filter occurs in the reverse order. Be sure to install it strictly in the direction of the fuel, just like the old filter was. The filter has a fuel direction arrow, so it needs to be placed in the direction from the gas tank to the intake manifold

When installing the filter, you should also pay attention to the gaskets in the pipes for cracks and breaks.

Now that the filter is installed

We hook up the fuel pump terminal and, turning on the ignition without cranking the starter 2-3 times, pump gasoline into the system. We start the car and look for leaks at the junction of the fuel filter with the pipes. After making sure that there are no leaks, we put the fuel pump hatch cover and the rear seat back.

Loss of traction due to a malfunction of the ignition system

Next, you should check the ignition system of the Lada Priora. The glow plugs are checked first. They must supply a spark to the cylinder at the right moment. If you notice interruptions in the operation of the spark plug, you should also check the ignition coil, which supplies voltage to the faulty spark plug; it is quite possible that the fault lies there.

After checking the spark plugs and coils, you need to pay attention to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Incorrect data from these sensors, which they transmit to the control unit, can cause interruptions in engine performance. If interruptions in the functioning of these sensors are detected, they are replaced.

Loss of traction due to improper assembly or engine wear

Often the problem of power loss in a power unit is a mismatch between the position of the camshaft mark and the mark on the housing, which causes the engine's valve timing to be disrupted.

First, the alignment of the camshaft marks is checked. If the marks on the camshaft are in the correct position, you should also check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft. Often a discrepancy in marks occurs precisely on it.

The classic way to start a broken car

Incorrect adjustment of the valve clearances of the gas distribution mechanism can also cause a loss of power from the power plant. If the gaps are incorrectly set, the valve timing is disrupted, which leads to a decrease in the power of the power plant. To eliminate the malfunction, check the valve clearances and, if necessary, make adjustments.

Finally, you should check the compression in the engine cylinders. If the compression rings are severely worn, the compression in the cylinders drops, which leads to a decrease in engine power. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the rings.

Source

Suction points

On the Priora there are several places for air leaks and during the inspection it is necessary to check each place in order to exclude it or, on the contrary, find it.

Once you have chosen a verification method that is convenient for you, from the ones indicated, you can begin searching for a place.

Clamps

Checking the connections of the clamps on the intake corrugation near the mass air flow sensor and the throttle valve, as well as the hoses connecting the receiver and the throttle body. The clamps must be well tightened, and the hoses that are clamped by them must not rotate on the fittings. It is recommended to replace bad clamps with new ones.

Corrugation and hoses

Checking the integrity of the corrugation itself and hoses. The corrugation should not have chips, cracks or tears; inspect it carefully and replace it with a new one if necessary. Hoses must not have cracks.

IAC (in Priors without E-GAZ)

Checking the O-ring on the XX regulator. The ring must be checked by dismantling the XX regulator. To do this, unscrew the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver and take out the IAC, replace the ring with a new one and put it back.

Lid

Checking the oil filler cap. Quite often it happens that the lid seal hardens and has cracks; when air leaks are detected near the lid, it must be replaced.

Crankcase ventilation

Checking the hoses and clamps of the crankcase of small and large ventilation. Over time, the crankcase ventilation hose loses its elasticity and can break when the engine oscillates, thereby allowing air to pass through.

Dipstick

Checking the tightness of the oil level dipstick in the internal combustion engine. The dipstick, like the crankcase hose, can lose the elasticity of its seals; to fix the problem, you need to remove the dipstick, lubricate the seat with sealant and install it back.

Throttle

Checking the connection between the remote control and the receiver. The throttle valve is connected to the receiver using a bolted connection, between which a gasket is installed; over time, the gasket can become wrinkled and allow air to pass through.

Receiver rings

Checking the seal wheels on the receiver. A fairly common problem with plastic receivers. At the junction of the receiver and to the cylinder head, rubber rings are used for sealing, which dry out under the influence of high temperatures and begin to let air through. This problem can only be treated by replacing the rings.

Injector rings

Checking the O-rings on the injectors. O-rings of injectors, as well as receiver rings, are exposed to high temperatures, which adversely affects their physical properties. Air leaks from under the injectors can be localized by replacing the rings themselves with new ones.

Absorber

Checking the tightness of the absorber valve and its tubes. The absorber valve is directly connected to the receiver. Its tubes are made of plastic and in the cold season, they often break, which leads to inevitable air leaks.

Vacuum booster

Checking the brake booster hose and its tightness. The vacuum brake booster is connected to the receiver via a hose. Air leaks can occur either in the amplifier itself or in the hose.

We hope our article was useful to you. We wish you success in finding air leaks on the Lada Priora.

In the life of motorists, a situation often arises when, when driving out onto the road and trying to accelerate, it is noted that the engine does not pull.

That is, the acceleration dynamics are very “sluggish”, the car is reluctant to pick up speed, and it feels like something is holding it back.

This problem can arise with almost any car - domestic or foreign, gasoline or diesel, with a carburetor power system and injector.

Often, a drop in traction is accompanied by additional symptoms - extraneous sounds appear when the engine is running, the engine may stall in one of the modes (usually at idle), the crankshaft speed is not stable and “floats”.

But this is not always the case; it happens that the unit behaves perfectly in all respects, but does not develop power.

Main reasons

On the Lada there are hydraulic compensators on the valves; they automatically adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism. These devices are sensitive to oil starvation. As a result of a decrease in the level of this substance, fingers knock when accelerating the car. This knocking sound is also produced in the following situations:

Jerking is another common problem that is associated with a short-term spontaneous change in the speed of the engine crankshaft, regardless of the position of the accelerator pedal. In daily use, a whole series of jerks appear. The limiting case of this phenomenon - failures during acceleration of the Lada Priora - is a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

There are several reasons for jerking:

You can determine the reasons why a Lada with an injection engine stalls when accelerating using special diagnostic equipment. In most cases, jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the corresponding rail, a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor.

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Comments 44

Good day, tell me how you solved this problem, it’s the same garbage, I’ve already changed everything except the pump

Good Yes, apparently this was not a problem, but a nit-picking. In general, you need to look at the diagnostics, measure the pressure in the ramp, change the mesh in the tank.

If you claim that the coils are normal, the spark plugs are normal, either the forces are dying or the sealing rings are lying down and drawing air

I changed the rings last year. As for the forces - well, they flow at xx 3.4 ms, above the diagnostic tolerances. Who knows. I cleaned it with Vince, then poured laurel into the tank. But then again, that was a year ago. I change the filter according to the regulations, I have already changed the mesh in the tank 2 times, within 30k of mileage. Gasoline at Gazprom in some places. I just noticed the difference between a cold and hot engine. Although the car drives the same as it was. But for some reason I really noticed it. I don't think these are rings.

Look at the pressure of the pump, look at the forces, honestly, I think the flushing is nonsense, I watched how they wash, just like they were applied, and they remain the only thing a little better, I bought new ones, they put out perfect fog. Change the fuel filter, you describe that you have the same thing, in general, I’m describing to you what I did, because the diagnostics are all fine, they tell me why did you come, well, I started looking for problems myself, I looked for suction valves, the knocking of the hydraulics also failed in operation is huge, because the valves do not work fully + the knock sensor turns on emergency mode, in terms of throttle heating you can remove it for the summer, but provided that there is little rain, the air is not humid, otherwise other problems will appear, buy a bk staff, here you have it They won’t tell you the same diagnostics anymore, there are smart ones, if it doesn’t seem like they are looking for a problem, well, God forbid they find them. Throw out the exhaust and have it flashed, yes it will be a plane, no talk, I felt the consumption has decreased and it goes well from the bottom.

My pump is relatively new, I changed it a year ago, this is certainly not a panacea, but I would like to think that it is not the case. There’s probably no point in removing the heating, it’s cold, and winter will begin in a month. Another thing is that after warming up, the speed at хх changes a little in the region of 840-920, and рх changes the pitch all the time, but within small limits.

This is a video on the self-tensioning timing belt, the speed jumps depending on the advance angle, that is, on the Prior this is normal

it gets dull when accelerating from 2500 to 3000 thousand, as if someone is holding it, then the 16kL Priora drives normally, 8 years old, when cold everything is fine up to 70 degrees, I already wrote a post on this topic, so I cleaned the catalyst and it still gets dull)

Jerks when moving

The moment the car starts moving, most often there is a failure. Unpleasant sensations are associated with a delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal. In some cases, the engine stalls. A jerk occurs when the throttle valve opens, when, based on a signal from its position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from cold mode to load mode. This is aimed at increasing the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors. Due to insufficient pressure in the fuel line, there is not enough fuel to move the Lada Priora smoothly.

For this reason, the car stalls when accelerating. In this case, the electronic control unit of the engine, having received a message from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to increase the fuel supply as much as possible. This is impossible to do due to low fuel pressure.

Lada Priora sedan › Logbook › They float at cold speeds, warm up a little and everything is fine?

In general, it all started about three weeks ago. When starting in the morning, the revolutions rose to 1500, then 500 and the speed became normal, then slowly it got worse and worse, the lower the temperature and the longer the car sits, the longer the revolutions float, when you start in the morning, you have to keep on accelerating to keep it from stalling. Before that, when I didn’t apply the accelerator once, it blinked, and then the check light came on and started flashing. While I was traveling on business, the check went out, I went to the diagnostician, he said that there were misfires in cylinder 4. Maybe the coil is moving? Priora with an electronic pedal and throttle by the way!

In short, I found the reason, the rings on the receiver seemed to have fused, I replaced them with new ones and everything was fine!

Signs of engine tripping

Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

The main signs of engine tripping include

Signs

Auto mechanics identify several reasons why jerking occurs and the engine begins to stall. The main ones are: incorrect ignition timing, faulty spark plugs and installed condenser, broken piston rings, piston and valve burnout, rocker wear, clogged air filter, and others.

The cause of the jerking must be sought in the cylinders

To reduce the search for the cause of engine tripping, it is recommended to determine which cylinders are not working correctly or have stopped functioning. To do this, you will need to remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plugs one by one. This procedure must be performed carefully, as there is a risk of electric shock. Before performing this work, you will need to place a dielectric base in the form of rubber or wood under your feet. It is recommended to remove by the wire. Then the engine speed increases to 1500 rpm. The valves are removed from the cylinders one by one. If the sound of the vehicle changes when removed, then the cylinder is working correctly. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

• Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
• Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);

• There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
• Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
• The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
• The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);

In addition to the elements responsible for supplying fuel, a drop in power also occurs due to severe contamination of the air filter element.

Ignition system

This system also takes part in the combustion of the mixture, which means a failure in its operation can affect power.

In carburetor engines VAZ-2110 and others, a decrease in traction can occur due to:

• Faulty spark plugs or changes in their thermal gap;
• Excessive wear of the contacts and the central electrode of the distributor;
• Voltage losses in high-voltage wires;
• Violations of the ignition timing.

Irregularities in the power supply and ignition systems most often cause a drop in power, so testing to identify the cause should begin with them.

If the operation of these systems does not raise suspicions, other components of the engine should be diagnosed.

Exhaust system, timing belt and crankshaft

Loss of traction can also occur due to the exhaust gas removal system, although problems with it rarely occur on carburetor engines.

The main reason here is the reduction in throughput due to large deposits in the muffler. Because of this, exhaust gases, without having time to escape from the cylinders, “choke” the engine.

The reasons for the drop in thrust are also often the gas distribution mechanism and the cylinder-piston group.

Here the reduction in power occurs due to:

• Violations of the thermal clearance of valves;
• Heavy carbon deposits on the valve plates and seats, or their burning;
• Occurrence of rings;
• Limit wear of the CPG;
• Cylinder head gasket failure.

In general, problems with the timing belt and CPG cause a drop in power in any engine - carburetor, injection, diesel. Therefore, we will not mention these mechanisms further.

Inspection of high voltage wire

Often, the Priora stalls when accelerating due to a malfunction of the ignition system. This is especially true for the condition of the high-voltage wire leading to the spark plug. To inspect it, you will need to remove the tip attached to the spark plug. The structure of a high-voltage wire is as follows: the winding contains the central core of the wire. The tip, which is put on the candle, has a persistent metal penny. The main purpose of this element is to transmit current to the spark plug.

The core of the high-voltage wire should fit as closely as possible to the “penny” of the steel tip placed on the spark plug. Due to aging, contact between this element and the wire may be lost due to oxidation of the metal. As a result, tripling occurs. The oxidation of the contact is checked as follows: with the second probe of the multimeter, you should touch the central core of the high-voltage wire; if the core of the high-voltage wire burns out along its entire length, then it is possible to identify such a section using a special multimeter tip.

The wire is pierced until the affected area is identified every 5-10 mm. If such a section is detected, it is cut off if the length of the high-voltage wire allows it. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.

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Comments 56

Tell me the same problem, you changed the temperature sensor that is on the thermostat, the problem did not appear again?

Yes, he, I don’t know, then sold the car after half a year

There was a problem absolutely similar to that of the author. After 70 degrees, the dynamics sell, from 3 to 4 thousand rpm. It almost doesn’t accelerate, from 4 thousand rpm. picks up and the car begins to accelerate, also when hot there is a slow cut-off. I changed the sensor, the previous dynamics returned and the car even started moving from the bottom, and the normal cut-off also returned. Thank you very much for the advice in the comments about replacing the engine temperature sensor. The issue price is 150 RUR.

Good day! Indeed, the same symptoms can lead to different troubles! I had the same symptoms, the diagnostics showed everything was normal, we decided to check the injectors, due to the assembly features of the Russian automobile industry, the power cord of the injectors was simply frayed from vibration, I changed the wires, additionally went over it with electrical tape, cleaned the contacts with a sandpaper and voila, the car drives without failures.

I changed the temperature sensor and the car came back to life, let's see how long it lasts)

Well, what is the effect of replacing the temperature sensor after a while?

today I changed the temperature sensor tomorrow we'll see how it goes

DVRM affects fuel consumption (if it is covered, consumption will increase). Do you have an air conditioner on your Priora? In general, if I were you, I wouldn’t worry, I would install the firmware under EURO 2, install issue 421 and ride. If you’re interested, write me a private message, we’ll call you, I’ll tell you everything, I don’t want to describe it here - it’ll take a long time.

I have it stitched) there is no air conditioner

gear on the crankshaft, or rather a key. but I also had it when it was cold, I don’t remember. you won't find a reason to go there

everything looked there, not checked at xx, then everything is fine, no glitches

Everything was ok for me, too, but at exactly 2600 I stuttered as I picked up speed, and up to 3000 I didn’t react to the gas at all, and then it stalled. Well, okay, but this can be ruled out.

A few days ago I had the same problem, I went for diagnostics and it turned out that the petrol was just crap, I refueled at another 95 gas station and everything went like clockwork.

I also changed the benzyl, the difference is not big, it's the same dullness

It helped me after they made an adaptation during the diagnostics and told me to fill it up with gas at another gas station and it helped.

I had the same problem, also an 8-year-old Priora, I tried changing a lot of things, resetting the ECU didn’t help for long, in the end I picked up the fan switch sensor that was simply not connected to the cooling, the ECU didn’t see that it was heating up more than 70 and the car was driving fine, but You can’t drive like that either, it can overheat, I explained to the diagnostician, he said that the program needs to be edited.

They will write you a lot of things here now, but in fact you need to do diagnostics and check everything, because... it could be a mass air flow sensor or a temperature sensor, although I doubt that it’s such problems from it, maybe everything is fine with you because at these speeds there really is a big dip, it could be the injector, it could be the fuel pump, it could even be something that you have to make capital. Find a smart master, here’s real advice for you, and don’t listen to anyone here. You will change the floor of the car to empty!

So the diagnostics don’t show anything, everything is normal)

Replacing spark plugs yourself

Since faulty spark plugs occur most often during acceleration failures, auto mechanics recommend Lada Priora owners learn how to change this element of the ignition system themselves. This should be done after the car has traveled 20 thousand km. However, if the engine starts to trip, the spark plugs should be replaced before this date:

To ensure stable engine operation, spark plugs should be replaced regularly.

Source

Reason 4 – fuel filter

This is perhaps one of the most common reasons why the Lada Priora twitches.

Like any other filter, the fuel filter becomes clogged over time. The reason is low-quality fuel and dusty air, so it is better to refuel at proven gas stations.

You can check a clogged filter yourself using a conventional pressure gauge, tube and clamp. For this:

At a service center, a pressure check service will cost about 300 rubles.

You can replace the fuel filter at home. The part costs about 300 rubles. If there is no desire or opportunity, contact the service center. There they will charge from 500 rubles for the service.

Conclusion

Many car enthusiasts do not know the reasons for the high idle speed effect, much less how to eliminate it. So, of course, experts and car mechanics recommend contacting a car service straight away, but our man won’t stop until he tries it himself.

There are many reasons for the effect of increased speed, from faulty sensors to errors in the electronic control unit. You can also fix the problem at home, which is what owners of VAZs and other domestic cars do. But owners of foreign cars will have to contact a car service center, where repairs can amount to a considerable amount.

Reason 5 – mass air flow sensor or ECU firmware

A malfunction of the mass air flow sensor on a Priora leads to the control unit receiving incorrect data on the amount of incoming air, as a result of which the air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and the car may begin to twitch. The malfunction is determined using diagnostics at a service center.

The price of the sensor is not at all budgetary for a Priora - about 4,000 rubles. You can change it yourself. To do this, first disconnect the negative battery terminal, then the wire connector and unscrew the pipe clamp. After this, use a wrench to unscrew the two screws securing the air filter housing and carefully remove the sensor.

Inappropriate ECU firmware leads to the same symptoms. The air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and interruptions may occur during engine operation. This can be caused by improper chip tuning or a malfunction of the “brains” themselves. In any case, only competent diagnosis will help here. It usually costs about 500 rubles. After diagnosis, the technician will tell you exactly how to solve the problem.

Diagnostics

To check your car for leaks, you can use the ELM327 scanner, you can read how to do this here. This scanner is capable of diagnosing your car and indicating whether it has this malfunction. But, checking with a scanner will not always be a reference, since the leak may be insignificant and the ECU simply may not notice it.

It is best to check the suction using the old proven method, or rather several, which are given below.

First way

It is necessary to unscrew the mass air flow sensor from the air filter housing. It is secured with two 10mm key bolts. We take out the mass air flow sensor and start the engine.

With the internal combustion engine running, we close the sensor hole with our hand or a bag, the car should stall and the intake corrugation should shrink. A vacuum is created in the engine, which, in the absence of air leaks, will persist for a long time and the corrugation will remain compressed.

If the corrugation on your car instantly expands or does not shrink at all, then this indicates the presence of suction.

Second way

To diagnose using this method, you will need a pump or compressor.

Here, just like in the first case, you need to unscrew the mass air flow sensor from the body and insert the bag between it. Then screw it back, thereby blocking air access to the engine.

On the receiver we find a fitting with a plug. We remove the plug and connect the pump there, pump up pressure into the receiver and listen to where the hissing will come from. To more accurately determine the location of the leak, you can use a soap solution with a spray bottle. We spray the areas of possible leakage with this solution and look for the appearance of bubbles.

Video on methods 1 and 2

Third way

This method is widely used at service stations. The search for suction is carried out using a smoke generator. This method is similar to the second, but instead of air, smoke is pumped into the receiver. If the engine has a choke, then smoke will flow out of this place.