What is "failure"? This is an effect in which the car does not accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the “jerk” effect occurs. This is a fairly common malfunction associated with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.
Video about gas failures on an injection engine:
This video material will talk about such a malfunction as gas leaks, the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.
Other engine and system malfunctions
- Compression in the engine cylinders is low.
- The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
- The engine control system is faulty.
- The valves of the gas distribution mechanism are burnt out and leaky.
- The exhaust system is leaking.
- The valve clearances are not adjusted (8-valve engines only).
- The hydraulic pushers are faulty.
- The engine air filter is dirty.
- Vacuum hose connections are leaking.
Keywords: Lada Granta engine | Lada Priora engine | Lada Kalina engine | Lada Kalina 2 engine | Lada Largus engine | Lada Vesta engine | Niva engine | lada xray engine | universal article
Problems with the engine (troits, jerks, pulls poorly), causes
05 October 2015 LadaOnline 65 831 Does the car jerk at low speeds or when accelerating? Is the engine running rough and the Check Engine light on? Has the car lost its dynamics and doesn’t drive like before? In this article we will tell you about all the possible causes of these malfunctions and how to solve the problem.
It is worth noting that the causes of malfunctions are similar for all modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), because AvtoVAZ equips them with engines with identical characteristics.
It is recommended to start searching for a problem with diagnostics (reading errors). If this is not possible, then we first perform a test (or temporarily install a known working spare part/sensor), and only then replace the faulty parts.
If the engine idles or the car jerks when accelerating (driving), possible reasons:
Malfunctions in the fuel system
- The fuel filter or fuel line is clogged.
- The fuel injectors or their circuits are faulty.
- The fuel pump is faulty.
- The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is not working.
You need to check the pressure in the fuel system.
Malfunctions of sensors or their circuits
- Crankshaft position sensor (CPS).
- Coolant temperature sensor (CTS).
- Throttle position sensor (TPS).
- Mass air flow sensor (MAF).
- Knock sensor (DS).
- Oxygen sensor (OS).
More details about sensors.
Reason 7. Automatic transmission with surprise
If the car does not pick up speed, and you press hard on the gas, the reason may be in the automatic transmission. At the same time, you can hear that the engine is roaring like a wounded bison, but the power does not reach the wheels. To check if the problem is really in the automatic transmission, do the following:
- Drive onto a flat road without turns. Set the handle to Drive.
Drive a couple of kilometers, observing the behavior of the car. If when you press the gas, the speed decreases, the problem is in the braking system. If the car does not pull and you hear a loud sound from the engine, then you need to check the automatic transmission.
It will not be possible to close the list with 7 reasons, however, the remaining breakdowns can only be calculated by a master diagnostician. We wish your horse not to break!
Hi all. Please tell me why the car is stuttering, especially in the mountains, it doesn’t go well and on the highway when it doesn’t pick up speed it starts to stutter. Car VAZ 2110 injector 1.5; 8 valve. Thanks in advance.
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21 comments on “Please tell me why the car is stuck, especially in the mountains it doesn’t go well”
The filter is usually changed in such cases. It is located under the rear seat on the fuel pump. The mesh is white.
Well, who the hell knows why ten in the mountains is stupid.... mb because she doesn’t have ice axes and pitons... as if we all here have virtual connections to your cars
I also had it in the mountains (Caucasus Mountains) when I went to the sea. I changed the fuel pump mesh, everything was ok
Maybe it's better to ride donkeys in the mountains? Well, seriously, but change the spark plugs and the fine filter, located in the area of the rear beam under the car
Already changed the spark plugs, fuel filter near the beam, air filter, mesh in the tank, but didn’t change it
Igor, change the mesh)
She's upset about your knowledge of Russian
There are many reasons for it: the fuel filters are clogged, low pump pressure, the spark plugs and wires have done their job, low compression even on a tooth, the timing belt was not installed correctly, there will be poor traction, especially uphill, but diagnostics can almost always cope with this)
what affects the intensity of acceleration or fuel supply?? IAC, MAF, Spark plugs, spark plugs, Dirty throttle, injector... I've been driving for half a year... and I can only imagine the device....
Masters, in any unclear situation, turn on the emergency lights
how do you stomp? starting, one and a half thousand - second, 1-2 thousand 3rd, 1 - 1.5 thousand rpm - 4th and to the floor. )
No, you’re walking along the highway, when you press the pedal to overtake, it doesn’t pick up speed and it’s as if someone is pulling your ass. And in the mountains the speed doesn’t go at all, it drops to the second somehow you get up
Well I have one knocking
If you test the compression in the cylinders, the oil scraper rings may have sunk, the compression will be beyond the limit and there will be no pull at all, you need to either pour kirosene into the cylinders and let it sit for a day, or do a complete overhaul, I had the same thing, the kirosene helped me and God grant the same to you, still cheaper than a complete overhaul
There is a lambda zone on the manifold. (If check engine is on)
In the life of motorists, a situation often arises when, when driving out onto the road and trying to accelerate, it is noted that the engine does not pull.
That is, the acceleration dynamics are very “sluggish”, the car is reluctant to pick up speed, and it feels like something is holding it back.
This problem can arise with almost any car - domestic or foreign, gasoline or diesel, with a carburetor power system and injector.
Often, a drop in traction is accompanied by additional symptoms - extraneous sounds appear when the engine is running, the engine may stall in one of the modes (usually at idle), the crankshaft speed is not stable and “floats”.
But this is not always the case; it happens that the unit behaves perfectly in all respects, but does not develop power.
Reason 1. The food was so-so
The author of the article had a breathtakingly funny story. True, not with him personally, but with a friend. He once filled up with fuel at a well-known gas station. I filled it up and went on a date with the girl. And it’s frosty, winter outside. While we sat in the cafe and cooed at the cinema, it’s time to go home. But there’s no way to get home – the car doesn’t move. Well, no way at all: we haven’t tried everything, we haven’t read what forums. And so, on the advice of an experienced person, my friend decided to stick a branch into the gas tank and check the gasoline. And what do you think? Gasoline is frozen! That is, in general! Apparently the brave mixers overdid it with water in the fuel. Of course, they drove the car away, warmed it up and drained the gasoline, but a residue remained.
The quality of the fuel directly affects the behavior of the car. You can press the pedal to the floor as long and sharply as you like, but you will not achieve any effect. The car will sneeze, slow down and suffer along with you. The simplest thing is to drain the gasoline and pour 5 - 10 liters from another gas station. If this was the case, the symptoms will immediately disappear. And if it’s not in it, then pour the old one back in - don’t let the goodness go to waste. We wrote about the consequences of pouring low-quality fuel here.
Stuttering when accelerating? Dig! — logbook Lada Kalina Sedan 2006 on DRIVE2
As you know, every car requires attention. So mine demanded it. Sluggish acceleration, vibration, consumption, shocks when switching. List of suspects:1. MAF sensor. I recently measured www.drive2.ru/l/477094589040165062/. The multimeter reading is 1.04 V.
According to the diagnostics, it showed 1.016 V. There is a third way - remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and drive it. I haven't tried it.
Full size
Mass air flow sensor 1.016 V.
2. Candles. I forgot to take a photo. Yesterday I took it off, like new. Candles cost 17 dv. www.drive2.ru/l/473344429755728085/. I'm going to install DENSO.
3. Air filter. Yesterday I took it out dirty. I blew it out from the compressor. I was breathing better. It was easier to go.
photo from the Internet. It looks like it was for me.
4. I have long wanted to try running antifreeze past the throttle valve. The fitting was used from an old radiator.
That's how I sawed it off.
did the same
5. Corrugation. www.drive2.ru/l/478326591819088066/. I've seen some cars come out inside. I thought so too. It turned out not. It just rattled and siphoned. Although sound could also play a role. After replacement the vibration went away.
Free passage
6. It remains to look at the injectors. There is no smell of gasoline. But the O-rings have already been purchased. I took washing for the injector and valves. I'll do it as soon as I fill the tank full. After this, you will need to replace the spark plugs as recommended.
Like this
7. Here I will simply post screenshots from the diagnostics. Guys who understand may notice. I'd be glad for your advice.
www.drive2.ru
Dips during acceleration
Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:
- The first step is to check the spark plugs. The appearance of carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not adjusted correctly. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
- Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
- A clogged throttle can lead to failures during acceleration.
- The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.
Air filter clogged - The fuel pump (), as well as the condition of the fuel filter, can affect injection.
Therefore, in case of failures, it is necessary to diagnose them. To diagnose and check its operation, as well as the condition of the mesh filter. Dirty fuel filter - ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures.
- The last reason is clogged injectors. They need to carry out diagnostics, check functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.
Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.
VAZ injection engines
In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.
Supply system
Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.
Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:
- Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
- Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
- The fine filter is dirty;
- Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
- Clogged injectors;
- Fuel filter dirty;
- Air leak in the manifold.
In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.
The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.
The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.
The number of these tracking elements is considerable and the breakdown of any of them leads to the fact that the ECU incorrectly evaluates the indicators on the basis of which it controls the executive part.
Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: acceleration and idling
What is "failure"? This is an effect in which the car does not accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the “jerk” effect occurs. This is a fairly common malfunction associated with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.
Video about gas failures on an injection engine:
This video material will talk about such a malfunction as gas leaks, the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.
Causes of the phenomenon
Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal
There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:
These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.
Dips during acceleration
Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:
Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.
Gas leaks at idle
At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:
- Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.
Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge
All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).
conclusions
The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.
carfrance.ru
Technical features of viburnum engines
Kalina owners sometimes complain that the engine is not working, and other problems appear, the causes of which you should know in order to be able to fix the breakdown yourself. The drive belt is most often damaged and is one of the main causes of engine failure. Filters and fuel lines become clogged.
1.4 liter engine - in-line, 4-cylinder, injection. Made of cast iron, accepts AI-95 gasoline. This is a modified version of the power unit installed on the VAZ 21083. The same engine, only in a more powerful version, is installed on the Priora. Disadvantages include noise during operation, inefficiency and the fact that the unit bends the valves.
If you want to improve the engine, you should know that this type of power unit is not the best option for tuning work. All that can be done is to install a Prior block. But it is strictly forbidden to install sport-type overhead camshafts, since in this case you will simply finish off the system without getting anything in return.
The 1.6 liter engine has 2 incarnations. The first option is an 8-valve, installed on the standard version. There is a significant improvement in performance due to the reduction in the weight of spare parts. In addition, the parts have increased strength, which is achieved through heat treatment. And that is not all.
The 16-valve engine is installed on luxury versions. It is equipped with a durable drive belt. In-line, 4-cylinder. This is an improved version of the power unit installed on the “ten”. But unlike that model, this unit has lightweight, higher quality, and more durable parts. The motor block has received a modern design that fully meets all the most stringent requirements of the present time.
New Lada: Where is the engine number on the Lada Kalina - AvtoRem
Engine faults are in the timing belt, cylinders and pistons. The most common problems are related to defective pistons and gaskets due to overheating. As a result, there is a sharp decrease in power and engine failure. To solve these problems, it is necessary to replace the pistons with non-stick ones, and regularly check the engine to identify defective parts.
This is a good unit, but after a certain time it starts to knock, it rattles, it overheats, so it needs to be inspected regularly. When a knocking sound appears in the engine, it means that the hydraulic compensators have begun to fail. Either the piston or the bearings are knocking, which is a rather serious problem. Inattention and careless attitude to these issues can lead to a disastrous situation.
To increase engine power, you can install OKB "Dynamics 108" instead of the camshaft, and also adjust the phases and install a split gear. This manipulation will increase power. And if you modernize the intake manifold and cylinder head, the power will increase to 115 hp. With. But this is not the limit. Let's install a piston from Priora, and now we have all 120 hp. With.
An ambulance for the engine can be rebuilding the spark plugs, cleaning the injectors and the throttle valve. But the engine is a complex device. To competently approach its repair, you need to be patient and arm yourself with the most complete information about the upcoming work.
Poor dynamics of the internal combustion engine due to the catalyst: how to check
The topic of a drop in dynamics due to a clogged catalyst deserves a separate paragraph. This malfunction has become very common among motorists lately; questions about this are often found on forums.
We will not delve into the thematic jungle regarding what a catalyst is and why it is needed. Let's consider only the main signs indicating its malfunction. And a drop in engine power is not the only symptom.
The main sign is, of course, the “Check” light that comes on. However, a malfunction of the catalyst is not always detected so easily; in most cases, it passes gradually, and the “Check” signal is not displayed immediately. But the throttle response of the internal combustion engine decreases, the overall dynamics of acceleration decreases and starting becomes more difficult.
Whether to remove the catalyst or not is the choice of the car owner, but it should be remembered that there is nothing “totally superfluous” in the car
The reason for the drop in power characteristics can also be a clogged reel honeycomb. Because of this, the throughput of the catalyst decreases, since gases that did not have time to pass through the catalyst “crush” the power of the power plant.
Note. The bobbin honeycombs can not only become clogged, but also collapse or melt over time.
Problems with the catalyst can also be associated with abrasion of the platinum layers. The lambda sensor instantly notices this and sends a signal to the driver.
You can check whether the catalyst is working normally or not by looking at the strength of the gas flow. If it is difficult to block the flow by hand, then everything is fine with the catalyst, but when it is clogged, the flow will be weak.
Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine
To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.
The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.
Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.
In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.
Supply system
Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.
A decrease in power can occur due to:
- Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
- Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);
- There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
- Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
- The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
- The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);
In addition to the elements responsible for supplying fuel, a drop in power also occurs due to severe contamination of the air filter element.
Ignition system
This system also takes part in the combustion of the mixture, which means a failure in its operation can affect power.
In carburetor engines VAZ-2110 and others, a decrease in traction can occur due to:
- Faulty spark plugs or changes in their thermal gap;
- Excessive wear of the contacts and the central electrode of the distributor;
- Voltage losses in high-voltage wires;
- Violations of the ignition timing.
Irregularities in the power supply and ignition systems most often cause a drop in power, so testing to identify the cause should begin with them.
If the operation of these systems does not raise suspicions, other components of the engine should be diagnosed.
Exhaust system, timing belt and crankshaft
Loss of traction can also occur due to the exhaust gas removal system, although problems with it rarely occur on carburetor engines.
The main reason here is the reduction in throughput due to large deposits in the muffler. Because of this, exhaust gases, without having time to escape from the cylinders, “choke” the engine.
The reasons for the drop in thrust are also often the gas distribution mechanism and the cylinder-piston group.
Here the reduction in power occurs due to:
- Violations of the thermal clearance of valves;
- Heavy carbon deposits on the valve plates and seats, or their burning;
- Occurrence of rings;
- Limit wear of the CPG;
- Cylinder head gasket failure.
In general, problems with the timing belt and CPG cause a drop in power in any engine - carburetor, injection, diesel. Therefore, we will not mention these mechanisms further.
Main causes of malfunctions
If there is no sound from the speakers, then the problem is not always a malfunction of the radio. The main problems are the following:
- Speaker failure. The main purpose of the device is to output sound. It is not always possible to carry out repairs yourself; often you have to completely replace the device. It is recommended to trust repairs to specialists.
- Problems with the amplifier. Often the car radio is connected to the speakers via an amplifier. Its purpose is to improve the quality of the outgoing signal. If the amplifier is not working properly, there will be no sound output from the speakers.
- Weakened contacts. If the radio turns on, but the sound of the car floats, there is a possibility of deterioration in the quality of the connection. Even the loosening of one contact can cause a malfunction of the entire system.
- The power circuit has closed. To power the radio, a power source is required; the lack of contact is caused by mechanical stress or corrosion due to high humidity.
- Inconsistency between the power of the used speaker system and the installed radio. Before you independently improve the acoustics in your car, you should consider the capabilities of the radio. If you choose the wrong equipment, it can overheat and fail. The amplifier is rarely repaired; most often it is replaced with a more suitable device.
The sound in the radio also disappears due to a malfunction of the device itself. It is not recommended to purchase fakes, as the Chinese model has poor build quality
THE VEHICLE MOVES JERKLY
In relation to a car, a jerk is a short-term spontaneous change in the engine crankshaft speed, regardless of the position of the gas pedal. In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks.
The extreme case of a jerk is a failure - a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.
Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished: - at the moment of movement; - during acceleration; - during steady movement, i.e. with the accelerator pedal in constant position.
To determine the causes of jerks when driving a car with an injection engine, special diagnostic equipment is required, so in this case we recommend contacting a car service center that specializes in repairing fuel injection systems. However, as practice shows, in most cases jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the engine fuel line (rail) or a malfunction of the throttle position sensor. With some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.
Jerking when the car starts moving
At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—most often occurs. The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine’s response to pressing the gas pedal. Sometimes the engine even stalls.
A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the electronic control unit determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors.
If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start.
Jerking when accelerating a car
The cause of jerking during acceleration may be, as in the previous case, insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel line.
The electronic engine control unit, having received a signal from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to maximize the fuel supply, but due to the reduced fuel pressure it is not able to do this.
Jerks during steady vehicle movement
Such jerking is most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnosis and repair are required.
On the way, you can try to do the following yourself: - carefully inspect the engine compartment. Turn off the ignition and check the secure fastening and seating of all wires and connectors at the ignition coil and high-voltage wires.
Start the engine and listen to its operation: the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible;
— replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage.
Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if it is not up to standard, the engine or its systems may need to be repaired
A specific cause of jerking during steady motion of a car with an injection engine may be a failure of the throttle position sensor.
Additional symptoms confirming the malfunction of this sensor: - uneven operation of the engine at idle;
- reduction in maximum engine power.
No sound from speakers
There is often a situation where only one side plays. A common question among car enthusiasts is what to do in such a case. Most often, the problem is a faulty cable, which just needs to be cleaned accordingly. The following substances can be used for cleaning:
- Ethanol. It can be found in pharmacies, and the cost is relatively low.
- Isopropyl alcohol. This substance is much more expensive, is sold in large bottles, and cannot be used in the future to achieve other purposes.
- Nail polish remover. It is able to dissolve the smallest particles and also remove dust from the surface.
School eraser is used to clean large trains. Cleaning instructions are as follows:
- Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the right trim in the immediate vicinity of the glove compartment.
- The screws that secure the torpedo trim are unscrewed.
- The front part of the radio is pulled out. It is often held on with clips.
- All connectors located at the rear are disconnected.
- The radio is disassembled, after which the cables are cleaned using a suitable substance.
After completing the above work, you can begin assembly in reverse order.
Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: acceleration and idling
What is "failure"? This is an effect in which the car does not accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the “jerk” effect occurs. This is a fairly common malfunction associated with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.
Video about gas failures on an injection engine:
This video material will talk about such a malfunction as gas leaks, the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.
Causes of the phenomenon
Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal
There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:
These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.
Dips during acceleration
Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:
Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.
Gas leaks at idle
At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:
- Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.
Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge
All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).
conclusions
The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.
carfrance.ru
Do-it-yourself troubleshooting
It is possible to eliminate power failures on your own only when the reasons that caused the failures can be easily eliminated even by a novice car enthusiast.
In all other situations, you cannot do without the help of a qualified mechanic. The car will have to be taken to a car service center, since a novice car enthusiast will do more harm than good with his actions.
The worst thing about power dips is that they can be caused by a huge number of reasons. And identifying the real cause of failures can take a lot of time, much longer than the repair itself. Therefore, the most reasonable solution is to entrust the search for reasons to professionals. They not only have the necessary experience, but also a lot of special equipment. The only exceptions can be the cases mentioned above, when the cause of the problem lies on the surface.
Reason 4. The pressure is so pressure
Look at the manual and decide what pressure is typical for the car. Find the regulator on the line and see if it is leaking. The second reason is incorrect configuration. Excess pressure is generated in the system, which affects the non-standard behavior of the car. Arm yourself with an air pump to check: raise the pressure level to the required level and dump fuel into the tank. The operations must be performed simultaneously. If fuel reset occurs earlier, the regulator should be replaced.
If you have an injection engine, look for the fuel pump in the gasoline tank. With a carburetor engine, the pump is located directly on the engine, under the hood.
What's the result?
With that said, if the engine is not making power, it could be due to the ignition, air or fuel supply. We add that a decrease in engine power can also occur depending on external conditions: ambient temperature and atmospheric air pressure.
If the car pulls worse under certain conditions, then this is not a malfunction. For example, high in the mountains, the power of an engine, especially an atmospheric one, decreases. Also in the summer, in extreme heat, the fuel pump or carburetor may overheat.
As a result, I would like to remind you that the throughput of the intake and fuel system greatly depends on the condition of the fuel and air filters. For this reason, filter elements must be changed promptly to ensure maximum performance from the engine.
BB wires
If the engine stalls at idle, the problem may be related to the operation of the ignition system. The culprit is the armored wires, which most often fail. If the wire is damaged, then the spark will break through and, naturally, there will be no spark at the spark plug. The fuel mixture in the cylinder will not ignite. It is best to check the wires with a multimeter.
Among the malfunctions of the wires, one can identify problems with the contacts at the points of connection with the spark plugs or with the coil. Also, the conductor may have various damages. If the insulation is destroyed, this will be accompanied by breakdowns and current leakage. In addition, increased wire resistance is also considered a malfunction. This also negatively affects sparking and the operation of the ignition system.
If the diesel engine doesn't work
A decrease in traction can also occur in diesel engines. If we look at old cars that have completely mechanical power systems, then the most common cause is depressurization of the system.
As a result, air enters the fuel, which is why the fuel injection pump is unable to provide the required pressure.
- clogged filters;
- weakly pumping fuel priming pump;
- damaged plunger pair;
- Coking of injector nozzles.
And if we also add possible problems with the timing belt and CPG, then identifying the cause will not be so easy.
In modern diesel installations, where an additional electronic component is used, the search range will increase.
For example, the Common Rail system uses all the same sensors as the injection engine. And if at least one of them breaks, this will certainly affect the operation of the control part.
Why is there no sound on the radio?
If the radio is working but there is no sound, then the reasons are zero volume level or problems with the amplifier chip. In the first case, a malfunction of the general or sound settings of the car radio could occur.
When the car audio system is turned on at high volume in such a situation, the amplifier chip quickly burns out and the sound disappears. The reason why the sound in the car floats when the car radio is working is not always related to the settings or electrics. Interruptions when listening to music are often associated with defective media: flash drives, CDs and cassettes.
Rare breakdowns
Experts say that 90% of all errors are related to injector adjustment. It is not difficult to eliminate it. The main thing is to pay attention to the improper operation of the car engine in a timely manner.
The rarest and most exotic are considered to be malfunctions of the engine control unit, as well as poor condition of the contacts. Sometimes there are cases of oxygen sensor poisoning. An experienced specialist can identify such deviations. In this case, not every car owner can solve the problem on their own.
Having considered what a rich mixture is, you can understand the danger of such a situation. If unforeseen situations arise, it is better to contact the service center. At service points there is the necessary tool with which you can perform diagnostics. This will save the car's engine.
conclusions
The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But at the same time, it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither the repair nor the repair will cost a penny.
Now a little background:
The car was purchased new in 2005, initially the engine seemed “strangled”. But without paying attention to this, they referred to the reason for its Euro-3 environmental class (it was not possible to compare engine dynamics at that time). We traveled like this for several years. By that time, the engine was becoming less dynamic, and citing its mileage (50-70 t.km.), they decided that the catalyst had definitely melted. Having heard enough stories about how easy it is to get rid of it, we didn’t take one thing into account :) If everything were that simple, it turned out to be metal
, not ceramic))). How we got rid of it is a separate story, but the result was still achieved. We start the engine, move off and... OH GOD! its dynamics have not changed in any way, only it has become louder (((( Around the same time, another malfunction appeared: the engine began to get hot during operation (high-quality antifreeze was used since the car was in operation!!). Now it not only does not pull , and it’s also heating up. The next struggle began with the second malfunction. The temperature sensor was replaced, then the pump, then the thermostat, then the temperature sensor again, and then the radiator itself. All this lasted for a year. Then we decided that the increased the operating temperature of the engine is a side effect of its first malfunction. Are the marks off? No, everything is normal. Again, all efforts were thrown into searching for the first cause. The next step was to change the engine program to the Euro-2 class. We set off - zero result! ... We continue to drive Over time, the dynamics of the car became comparable to a car loaded with 3, 4, 5, 10 bags of potatoes, and then it felt like you were towing a car. The mileage was already 100-130 t.km. It's time to change the fuel pump grid - zero results, then the fuel pump - zero results, cleaning the injectors - the same story. I am already silent about how many diagnostics have been made since operation. The parameters are always normal, and to the question “why doesn’t it work?” There are no exact answers. “Try changing this, doing that, checking the marks.” Like a fool, I’ve been checking my timing marks almost every month for several years now - in case they suddenly go wrong? If only I had known earlier what result this troubleshooting would lead to (What’s most interesting is that all the repairs done were typical for the operation of a LADA car, but only now I understand that most of them were in vain. Perhaps I would have continued to drive like this, so Only last week the car stopped moving at all. It accelerates only at a quarter of the gas and then in a straight line, and when starting from a stop uphill, where you need to give more gas, it completely choke (it hums and goes 1-2 km/h).
Maybe there are GURUs and SENSEIs among you who can tell you what the reason is?
PS I have extensive experience in operating the domestic automobile industry, and I myself am a mechanic by profession, I thought that LADA cars had been studied inside and out. He practically did the repairs himself, and the signs seemed to be characteristic. BUT THIS CASE BROUGHT ME TO my KNEES.
THE VEHICLE MOVES JERKLY
In relation to a car, a jerk is a short-term spontaneous change in the engine crankshaft speed, regardless of the position of the gas pedal. In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks.
The extreme case of a jerk is a failure - a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.
Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished: - at the moment of movement; - during acceleration; - during steady movement, i.e. with the accelerator pedal in constant position.
To determine the causes of jerks when driving a car with an injection engine, special diagnostic equipment is required, so in this case we recommend contacting a car service center that specializes in repairing fuel injection systems. However, as practice shows, in most cases jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the engine fuel line (rail) or a malfunction of the throttle position sensor. With some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.
Jerking when the car starts moving
At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—most often occurs. The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine’s response to pressing the gas pedal. Sometimes the engine even stalls.
A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the electronic control unit determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors.
If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start.
Jerking when accelerating a car
The cause of jerking during acceleration may be, as in the previous case, insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel line.
The electronic engine control unit, having received a signal from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to maximize the fuel supply, but due to the reduced fuel pressure it is not able to do this.
Jerks during steady vehicle movement
Such jerking is most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnosis and repair are required.
On the way, you can try to do the following yourself: - carefully inspect the engine compartment. Turn off the ignition and check the secure fastening and seating of all wires and connectors at the ignition coil and high-voltage wires.
Start the engine and listen to its operation: the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible;
— replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage.
Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if it is not up to standard, the engine or its systems may need to be repaired
A specific cause of jerking during steady motion of a car with an injection engine may be a failure of the throttle position sensor.
Additional symptoms confirming the malfunction of this sensor: - uneven operation of the engine at idle;
- reduction in maximum engine power.
