Electric power steering is designed to make driving life easier. It helps to turn the steering wheel in a parking lot without putting much effort; in modern cars it prevents accidents and makes driving easier. It is more reliable and better than the hydraulic booster, but it still breaks down, although less often. Let's sort it out main malfunctions in the operation of the electric amplifier and how they manifest themselves in order to be prepared for repair costs.
Symptoms of EUR malfunction
The most obvious one is the warning light on the dashboard coming on. It's a steering wheel with an exclamation mark. This icon comes in two colors – yellow and red. In the first case, you can drive the car, but you need to pull out the fuse for the electric power steering to completely cut off the power. In the second case, driving is not recommended; the power steering mechanism may block the steering wheel or you will lose complete control of the steering wheel.
The second sign can be considered the appearance of “heaviness” on the steering wheel , like on a domestic “classic”. At the same time, the buzzing of the electric motor will not be heard from under the steering column in the case of Kalina and Priora. This failure is reinforced by a warning indicator on the dashboard.
Fuse blown . This is a clear sign of a serious malfunction in the electric amplifier. The cause may be problems in the electrical part - oxidized contacts, damaged wiring, short circuit. Failures in the mechanical part of the power steering can also lead to a blown fuse - jamming of the gearbox or destruction of the steering rack. This leads to increased load on the amplifier motor, and as a result, a large current flows through the fuse.
Increased car engine speed at idle can serve as an indirect sign of a breakdown of the electric power steering.
What does Kalina's power steering consist of?
This unit is an independent device included in the steering mechanism of the Lada Kalina. It allows the driver to turn the steering wheel without much effort, and also ensures softness and smooth operation of the moving parts of the steering system.
Structurally, this mechanism cannot be classified as complex units. The electric power steering has the following parts:
- electric motor;
- gear unit;
- control module;
- sensors that monitor the torque, speed and number of revolutions made by the crankshaft.
The Lada Kalina on-board controller continuously monitors the functioning of this amplifier and controls its operation, but malfunctions do occur and many car owners are very interested in how to eliminate them. The mechanism is activated at engine speeds of 400 rpm. When the speed exceeds 60 km per hour, the electric booster stops functioning. This is done for the sake of safety, because at high speeds the driver must have confident feedback on the steering wheel, which a “light” steering wheel is not able to provide. With increasing speed, a gradual decrease in the magnitude of the force in the mechanism is observed.
Where to look for the reason
Electrical problems may occur due to oxidized connector contacts. The ingress of moisture and dirt impairs the conductivity of the contacts, and as a result, errors in the operation of the EUR.
Failures in the electronics may be due to loss of signal from the torque sensor. For example, on domestic cars the contacts are poorly soldered. Over time, they “go away”, and problems with the electric booster begin. It is enough to clean them and solder them well and the problem will disappear. If the speed sensor does not work, the EUR will generate an error and refuse to work.
Fuse . Even if it looks intact, you need to examine it carefully. There were cases when the amplifier turned off and generated error 1058 “Engine, phase windings shorted” (relevant for VAZ models) due to burnt fuse contacts. Cleaning the contact surfaces or replacing the fuse eliminated the malfunction of the electric amplifier.
The reason for the failure of the amplifier may be in the mechanical part. This applies to the gearbox and steering rack. The first one may jam due to water and dirt getting into the planetary gears or their physical destruction - read “Design and principle of operation of the electric power steering.”
Damage to the rack boots leads to water, dust and dirt getting inside. This destroys the rack from the inside, the bearings are damaged, and the steering mechanism jams. There were cases when the ridges were licked onto the slats, the “worm” of the shaft rotated, and the connection between the car’s wheels and the steering wheel was lost.
Replacing the electric booster
After the necessary repair of the electric power steering or its replacement, it is necessary to assemble the steering column, which is done in the reverse order. First, we install the lower hinge on the gear shaft and connect the steering column shaft to the intermediate driveshaft.
Next, remove the nut and bolt that tightens the intermediate shaft, and separate the upper and lower hinges. After installing the lower hinge in place, turn the steering shaft until the bolt hole in the upper hinge and the lower part of the shaft coincide.
We connect the hinges and tighten them together using a bolt. We connect the tire and wire blocks to the fasteners, and then install all the removed elements: steering column switches, ignition switch, and lastly, install the steering wheel cover and panels.
Thus, you can change a non-working electric power steering unit yourself without much difficulty in a garage or auto repair shop. This will make driving more comfortable.
How to check the EUR yourself
To understand what is broken in the amplifier, you need to diagnose it. Not every car owner has a diagnostic scanner; some people like to repair the car themselves. In this case, you can determine the malfunction of the electric amplifier yourself using a paper clip. This option is suitable for Kalina and Priora cars.
"Paperclip" method
We disassemble the protective cover of the steering column and get to the amplifier control unit. We find a black block with six wires. It is necessary to close contacts 7 and 6 between each other - “ground” and “K-line”. If you look at the block from the side of the wires, then the countdown goes from right to left, from top to bottom. You need a brown wire - contact number 7 and an empty socket, not used - number 6 in a row.
Turn off the ignition, insert a paper clip into the contacts, make sure that it does not short-circuit the other wires. Turn on the ignition and count the number of flashes of the warning light on the dashboard. One long signal, and then several short ones, these are the ones that need to be counted. Let's look at the decoding of fault codes for Kalina's electric booster :
- One short one – the system is working;
- Two - No signals from the engine speed sensor;
- Three – The torque sensor is faulty;
- Four – Electric motor failure;
- Five – There is no signal from the steering shaft position sensor;
- Six – The rotor position sensor is faulty;
- Seven – Low voltage on-board network;
- Eight – EUR control unit;
- Nine – Vehicle speed sensor.
In practice, this method may not always show real breakdowns. In this method, the control unit checks itself, and it needs to be checked under load. There were cases when it generated false errors, and the fault was hidden in the electric power steering ECU.
Debriefing
The electronic control unit (ECU) for the electric power steering is mounted in a bad place, under the heater radiator
. Any leakage of this part causes the ECU to get wet, after which you will feel that the power steering is not working and the steering wheel has become heavy.
If while driving you notice that the tachometer or speedometer needle is at zero and does not move, rest assured that the ESD of your car is not working. This happens because these devices and (EUR) are activated from the same sensors.
Most often on Kalina, the speed sensor fails. Buying a new sensor and replacing it solves this problem. There are very often cases when replacing sensors does not help, (the electric power steering) still does not work. Begin to methodically probe the entire chain of wires related to the system (EUR).
Due to the constant vibration of the car and poor quality of production, connecting plugs and blocks independently break electrical circuits at the most inopportune moment.
Kalina's power steering behaves poorly during on-board voltage fluctuations
. If an old generator produces less than 30 volts instead of 15 volts, then the electronic control unit of the power steering may also refuse to work.
If you broke down on the way
In recent years, the production of Lada Kalina cars (ECU) of domestic production was replaced with Korean ones. The kind they put on Hyundai cars. After that, power steering failures became significantly less frequent. But they started installing Korean blocks
. And how many thousands of Kalinas travel all over the roads, with old electronics?
Our advice to you is, at the first opportunity, change the electronic control unit on your car to a modern one, you will be healthier.
Electric power steering for modern cars has already become an integral part of them. On the Russian market it was first installed on the Lada Kalina ( VAZ 1118 ). The electric booster added both a lot of positive emotions and a lot of negative ones. Failure of this unit occurs quite often on the first samples. Our guest today was no exception - a car from the Lada Kalina family (Fig. 1).
Why do steering problems occur?
The main reason is the unsatisfactory condition of the roads. The car's suspension absorbs most of the shock to the wheels, but some of it is still transmitted to the steering mechanisms. It is worth noting that fans of low-profile tires risk much more than adherents of using standard wheels - low tires are unable to smooth out bumps, and this significantly reduces the service life of both the suspension and steering wheel.
But car owners should remember that even with extremely careful driving on a perfectly flat road, they will still have to change individual steering elements. They have a limited service life and some parts are consumables.
Causes of failure of the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina
For the first time, the Russian auto industry installed electric power steering on Kalina. At the first stages, it worked extremely unstably, up to a complete shutdown. Later, they tried to eliminate the shortcomings, but the EUR remained a weak link and periodically fails, as evidenced by the exclamation mark on the panel. This is evidenced by the feeling of a heavy steering wheel, and turning with one hand becomes difficult.
The principle of operation of the electric booster is to reduce the force that needs to be applied when turning the steering wheel. The Kalina electric power steering control unit uses sensors to calculate the operation of the electric motor at the current speed and torque. Thereby giving a signal of the effort with which the driver needs to be helped when turning. After all, it does not work constantly and needs adjustment, which is carried out by the block.
Repairing the EUR on-board computer
As for the “brain” and internal sensors, the procedure is as follows: to fix broken sensors, it is better to go to a service station, but you can change the computer at home. Tools that need to be used to work with the equipment:
- socket wrench 8;
- socket wrench 13;
- shaped screwdriver.
It is necessary to first remove the steering wheel.
How to repair the electric power steering of a Priora? Initially, the linings located on the steering column are removed. To do this, just unscrew the two screws and unfasten the 2 latches. The second step is to unscrew the bolts, there should be four of them. After this, with a slight movement, the lower part of the lining is separated, and all wires are disconnected. This can be done as follows: press the connectors on the antennae. You can loosen the clamp using a size 8 wrench. Afterwards, two connectors are disconnected from the EUR ECU - this allows you to remove the trim located there.
The nuts located at the bottom do not need to be completely unscrewed; just turn them using a socket wrench. The next step is to get the Priora EUR. If you cannot repair the device at home, contact a specialist. If the operations are performed correctly and there are no results, components may need to be replaced.
Signs of play in slats
When driving over small irregularities such as a gravel road, shocks and knocks in the suspension are clearly audible and are transmitted to the steering wheel. These signs will not always refer to play in the rack. Similar impacts to the steering wheel can occur due to broken steering ends or a broken crosspiece of the steering mechanism. Before you begin repairing the rack, you must exclude the tips and steering cross from suspicion.
Signs:
- Impacts to the steering wheel when driving over bumps
- Creaking sound when turning the steering wheel
- Biting the steering wheel in different positions
- The steering wheel does not return to zero position
Checking for play
Checking for play is done by rocking the swing arms up and down. To do this, we find the steering rods under the hood and pull each of them up and down; there should be no play or knocking. If any, then the rack should be maintained.
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Dream, I did this. The arrival is noticeable, but not long (and it didn’t leave for half a year, the backlash appeared again). Rubber doesn't last long. I want to try to reduce the distance between the torsion bar limiters by welding (you’ll understand when you open it). In the Rostov cell, someone put some kind of plastic instead of rubber, until he complains. The lock sits on the steering shaft and is secured with 4 bolts. When you unscrew the lock, make cuts on the bolts for a screwdriver.
Added after 57 seconds astealz, so what? Is it more fun to drive?
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<Nikolai>, steering is worse than with hard tires, but the steering wheel is lighter. There is play, but less than in stock, and with hard tires there was no play for a year, and I think there wouldn’t be any more. I would like to try the Kaluga EUR, because it seems to me that Makhachkala will not fix anything: a 3.1-turn rake, grant supports, cocked hats, a block - there is still no zero on the track.
Dream, it would be nice to make a key for a “special” nut, or knock out the pin, but this is only with the eura removed. If possible, you can connect diagnostics to the EUR and look at the first parameter in Openidag - it just shows the moment and the “center” of the EUR (windows in the glasses)
I did the same as here, only I didn’t unscrew the nut that holds the glass, but the EUR itself is like the Bi11i
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Long gone are the days when driving a car was like a set of strength exercises for the arms. Today, in order to turn the steering wheel, just a light touch with the palm of your hand is enough, and all through the use of electric power steering. Of course, this device complicates the design, and the more complex the structure of any system, not just a technical one, the more susceptible it is to failures and breakdowns. Each Lada Priora is equipped with an electric power steering (EPS), and today we will tell you how to diagnose problems with it and dismantle it without contacting a car service center. Contents: 1 Problems with the ESD Lada Priora: signs and causes 1.1 The ESD has completely failed 1.2 Unstable operation of the steering wheel 1.3 Knock in the steering wheel 2 Removing and installing the ESD 2.1 How to remove the steering wheel? 2.2 Mounting block cover and steering column switches 2.2 The process of removing the electric booster 3 Mechanical failures of the power steering unit 4 How to keep the power steering unit in working condition longer?
Mechanical failures of the EUR
Why, exactly, did we remove the EUR? Diagnostics of the electrical part of the device did not reveal any problems, which means that we need to look for the cause of its malfunctions in the mechanics, which may be as follows:
- Worn or clogged drive elements or worm gear;
- Wear of the support bearing of the worm shaft of the electric drive;
- Other signs indicating destruction or wear of ESD parts.
In such cases, it is necessary to replace the worn part, if possible, trying to understand the factors that influenced this result of the amplifier's operation, or, in critical cases, buy a new electric amplifier.
How to keep the EUR in working condition longer?
Despite the fact that you can remove the EUR yourself in a garage, without special tools and special skills, this procedure is not quick, because There is no way to quickly get to this device. Therefore, motorists are interested in a simple question - how to avoid the need to repair or change the EUR. The answer is obvious - you need to extend its service life. To do this you will have to adhere to the following rules:
Technology is constantly changing, especially in cars. Whether it's related to safety features or mechanical system upgrades, there are always new things coming out every year. In fact, many more car manufacturers now produce cars with EPS (electronic power steering) systems, but most vehicles still use hydraulic systems.
What malfunctions threaten the EUR on Kalina and what are the ways to eliminate them?
Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.
Advantages of electric power steering over hydraulics
- Electric power steering provides better fuel economy
Vehicles with EPS systems do not have hydraulic pumps or pistons. However, they come with a more simplified electric motor designed to amplify the steering commands given by drivers. This method reduces the weight of the car. Additionally, EPS does not use engine power like hydraulics. Overall, the electric power steering system is more efficient.
- ESD systems require less maintenance
Obviously, cars with power steering require fluid to operate. Vehicles with EPS have one less type of fluid. Vehicles with electrical systems are easier to calibrate, require no maintenance, and allow functional testing using a diagnostic system. Typically, all that is required is a little tweaking in the programming.
- Environmental protection
Electrohydraulic systems can save up to 75% of the energy consumed by conventional power steering systems, depending on the option considered. Purely electric power assist systems are even more efficient and can even save up to 90% of power steering energy consumption.
By completely eliminating hydraulic fluid, EPS systems have a positive impact on the environment: the reduction in energy consumption makes a significant contribution to the reduction of fuel consumption and CO2 emissions.
How to tighten the electric power steering rack?
The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.
How to do it right:
- First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
- Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
- Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
- At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
- To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
- When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.
Why doesn't the electric power steering work on Kalina? Fixing the problem
Today, all Lada Kalina owners are interested in the question: why does the electric power steering on the Kalina not work?
After all, this car began to be produced back in November 2004, with electric power steering as standard. The ten-year anniversary has passed, but according to reviews from car enthusiasts, this problem still exists. The electric amplifier consists of an electric motor, a force transmission mechanism and an electronic control system. The operation of the electric booster is controlled by an electronic unit with three special sensors, which must quickly determine the speed of the car, engine speed and the required force to turn the front wheels. When starting the engine with the starter, the electric power steering (EPS) does not work. It turns on only when reaching 400 rpm
crankshaft and stops working when the car accelerates over 60 km. at one o'clock.
