VAZ 21099 does not start injector 8 valves causes the starter turns

The car has become popular because it is not very expensive and has a number of features. Comfortable to drive, economical, beautiful interior, picks up speed well. The machine is reliable, with timely reliable service it has positive dynamic characteristics.

Exquisite design, available spare parts, unpretentious and tuning possible. Buying a car is recommended for beginners, as well as for anyone who is ready to promptly fix breakdowns that appear while driving.

Why does the VAZ 21099 not start, does the starter turn?

Production of the VAZ 21099 car began in 1990.
Few people owned the car due to its inflated cost. Now the car is in unprecedented demand, but regardless of weather conditions, breakdowns occur: the carburetor stops working, the gas pedal reacts slowly, the car jerks and stalls. Every man can easily and quickly fix minor problems on his own. The car has become popular because it is not very expensive and has a number of features. Comfortable to drive, economical, beautiful interior, picks up speed well. The machine is reliable, with timely reliable service it has positive dynamic characteristics.

What to do if the car does not start, is there a spark?

It is known that for an engine to start, three conditions are needed: gasoline, air and a spark. Fuel must enter the cylinder and ignite.

When the spark disappears when you turn on the starter in a VAZ 21099 car, the first thing you need to do is check the fuel pump and look at the cable that is connected to the box. After this, you need to pull out the central high-voltage drive, take it with pliers and attach it to the block head.

Then turn the starter and watch for a spark to appear. When there is still no spark, it is worth rechecking the voltage in coil K. You can duplicate the wire from pin 15 of the ignition switch.

Starter repair

Despite the fact that the VAZ 21099 carburetor has a reliable design, breakdowns still occur periodically. For example, sometimes the starter does not turn.

Disassembly and repair are carried out in the following sequence. You need to unscrew the nut from the contact and release the terminal tip of the stator winding. Pull out the traction relay by disconnecting the armature from the lever. Remove the armature, spring, and sealing part. Using a pipe of a certain diameter, knock out the stopper to get the stopper.

After removing the rings, remove the protection cap, washers, and tie rods. The collector cover is removed, the springs of the insulated brushes are moved away with a screwdriver, and the brush holder is removed. Electrically insulated brushes remain on the terminals of the stator winding.

The best starter for "nine"

Next, remove the stator with the housing, the plastic stop, take out the armature from the cover on the drive side and the intermediate support. After this, remove the coupling with the lever, the stop ring, and the contacts from the relay rod. Using a soldering iron, the winding leads are disconnected along with the terminals. The relay cover is removed, a contact plate with a rod is taken out, from which the spring is removed along with the nut.

Reassemble the starter in reverse order. When assembling, you need to properly solder the parts of the starter relay, not forgetting to lubricate the splines, and correctly and accurately select nuts and washers to replace old ones.

Procedure if there is no spark

If the starter turns in a VAZ 21099 car, but the injector does not start and a spark does not appear, you should pay attention to the ignition distributor. The first thing to do is remove the central wire from the distributor, bring it to ground, and crank the starter.

If a spark appears, the problem is in the distributor. It is necessary to clean the contact and check the slider. If a spark does not appear, it is necessary to diagnose the ignition system.

When the starter is cranked, the switch control light and pulses from the Hall sensor should blink. There are two ways to check the malfunction: checking gasoline and spark. When the engine does not start, two transistors may burn out, which is responsible for the cylinders.

In the event of a breakdown, it is recommended to set the ignition to the light bulb, check the spark, if there is none, look for the cause, and if there is a spark, you need to change the spark plugs. If there is no ignition, then most likely the switch is closed.

What to do if you can’t pull it?

You can also often encounter other machine breakdowns that you can quickly fix yourself. You can often hear that the car “does not pull.” First of all, the phenomenon is associated with low pressure on the ramp. When the engine starts, it idles, but does not pick up speed.

In these modes, the fuel pump requires greater performance, which it provides. If the car does not pull hot, you need to check the air flow meter and spark plug.

Any car owner can diagnose the breakdown and fix the problem at home. The main thing is to approach the work carefully and after fixing the problem, the car will be a joy to use for a long time. The owner will be satisfied, having a practical, very convenient machine, easy to operate and repairable.

Each car is unique and, knowing the main requirements for repair and movement, the car will drive without problems and will not need to replace spare parts. Each breakdown must be quickly repaired and reliably fixed.

Source

How to help the engine work

Sometimes the VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start well. To help a cold engine work, you need to perform the following steps.

Press the handle of the fuel pump to pump gasoline into the carburetor float chamber.
Place the gearshift lever in neutral position.
Pull the choke toward you, closing the throttle valve, and with the ignition on, try to crank the starter. If unsuccessful, repeat the action after some time.
If the car starts, let it idle, release the throttle and take your foot off the clutch pedal.
In the cold season, try to turn the crankshaft several times, turn the headlights on and off, pull out the choke handle, squeeze the clutch and turn the starter. In winter, to keep warm and improve engine performance, it is recommended to wrap the radiator grille. When the engine starts, the pressure control and battery charging lights on the operating panel should go out.

The driver starts the car

When the car is warmed up, its engine should start running immediately. Other situations arise when the machine does not. Starting a hot engine should take place with the throttle valve open and the gas pedal depressed to one third of its full travel. As soon as the engine starts, you need to release the accelerator pedal. If the start is unsuccessful, repeating the described steps may lead to difficulty starting the engine and flooding the spark plugs with gasoline. If this does happen, the turned out candles must be dried with air.

VAZ 2109 injector does not start

>In the article "" we examined in detail the reasons why the VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start . However, injection VAZ 2109 have their own characteristics, so this article is intended to help the owners of a VAZ 2108 2109 21099 injector when their iron horse stops starting. The differences in troubleshooting for carburetor and injection engines are very significant. Thus, the owner of a carburetor VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 can, with his eyes closed, determine why his car does not start. However, if you transfer him to an injection VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099, which does not start, then the person will not know what to do. It’s understandable: an electric fuel pump, an ECU, a bunch of sensors, injectors, an ignition module. Without knowing what and in what order to look, a situation where an injection engine does not start can quite frighten the car owner. Here, as in diagnosing any malfunction, a clear, well-thought-out sequence of actions to identify the malfunction is important. So let's start, if the engine VAZ 2108 2109 21099 injector does not start, then the old rule applies here: “Either there is nothing to burn, or there is nothing to ignite.” That is, either there is no spark, or the combustible mixture does not enter the engine cylinders. 1) Check if there is a spark. To do this, unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder, press it against the ground and turn the starter. If the spark jumps at the spark plug, then the problem is in the fuel supply system. However, we must remember that if the unscrewed spark plug is wet and there is a spark, be sure to check the marks.

Mark on the camshaft gear VAZ 2109

Mark on the flywheel of VAZ 2109

Due to the fact that the timing belt slips one or more teeth, the valve timing will be disrupted and the VAZ 2108 2109 21099 injector engine will not start. If the spark does not jump at the spark plug, then the cause may be: the crankshaft position sensor (hereinafter referred to as DPKV), the crankshaft pulley, the ignition module, the ECU. 1a) Many people are very afraid of what is in the injector. Yes, it’s true, incorrect operation of the sensors can greatly ruin the life of the owner of a VAZ 2108 2109 21099 injector. I’ll tell you one important detail that will immediately make you feel better: the VAZ 2109 engine will not start due to a malfunction of one single sensor - the DPKV. If any other sensor is faulty, the engine will start, but its operation will be incorrect - it may stall, not develop power, increase fuel consumption, but it must start. So, we check the DPKV VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099, the integrity of its connector and the wiring to it. Very often the DPKV connector rots, since moisture and dirt can get into it from below, although the sensor itself is very reliable. If there is a suspicion that the DPCV is faulty, it can be removed and easily checked. Apply power to it from the battery and bring metal to its working area. When the metal approaches, the output voltage of the sensor should increase; when the metal is removed, the output voltage of the DPKV should be close to zero. If the DPKV is faulty, we change it and try to start it. If it doesn’t start, we move on. 1b) Crankshaft pulley. What could be the problem here? The problem is that part of the pulley with teeth on the DPKV is rubber, and it can either fall off or spin.

Part of the VAZ 2109 pulley with teeth for DPKV fell off

Accordingly, the DPKV does not operate when the crankshaft rotates and the ECU does not issue a spark command to the spark plugs. You can simply remove the timing belt cover and visually verify that the crankshaft pulley is spinning and is in good working order. At the same time, check the integrity of the timing belt and timing marks. 1c) The reason that there is no spark may be a malfunction of the ignition module. It is also necessary to check the connector on the ignition module for its integrity. If possible, you can take the ignition module from another car and check whether the engine starts or not. 1d) If the ECU is faulty, the engine will naturally not start. 1e) Lack of contact in the electrical wiring. All devices may be intact: the ECU, the ignition module and all the sensors. But there will be no contact between them in the wiring, for example, a wire is torn off or the connector is oxidized. 2) If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, it is necessary to check the engine power system. We check whether fuel is supplied to the injectors: 2a) Is the fuel pump pumping?

What to do if the VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start?

Let’s just say that the problem applies not only to the “99”, but to all VAZs with a carburetor, since the reasons are the same. Despite the fact that injectors and diesel engines already predominate on the highways, a percentage of the old stuff still remains, and sooner or later they have to be repaired.

In fact, there can be a lot of reasons why the engine does not start, and sometimes even the most experienced driver or mechanic will not immediately be able to identify the source of the disease.

What can we say about inexperienced and young drivers who, at the first breakdown, get lost and don’t know where to go to fix the breakdown. Let’s take a closer look at how to quickly and efficiently repair a car in the article below.

Basic malfunctions and step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm
The VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start, which means you should look for a breakdown in one of the components described below:

There is no voltage from the battery to the starter;
, it should light green.
If it is black or red, it means the charge is very low. 20-25 minutes are enough to start the engine;
The degree of wear of the graphite rod on the distributor of the trampler has exceeded the permissible standards, as a result of which current does not flow to the first cylinder and the mixture cannot ignite;
We unscrew the cover of the distributor and look at the rod, it is centered inside. The minimum length should be 1.0 cm or more, if less, replace the tamper cover. Due to the fact that the graphite rod does not reach the distributor, the current is not transmitted to the spark plugs and, accordingly, there is no ignition.
The throttle valve is closed and air does not enter the working chambers of the carburetor;
Check the tension of the choke cable. The air damper rod must be strictly vertical; all other positions may overlap it and become a barrier to air. Press out the bolt and straighten the rod.
The fine filter of the fuel system
is very dirty and does not allow gasoline to pass into the combustion chamber in the required quantity;
Look at the filter color. If it is a rough orange color, it needs to be changed because it is clogged. The optimal color is light yellow.
The coil on the ignition coil is damaged, causing the spark plugs to not receive the spark that is the source of ignition. See article "";
Proceed as follows:
disconnect the positive cable on the battery, unscrew the top part of the ceramic block on the coil and you will see a metal spiral. If there is damage, the entire ceramic module must be replaced. There are no other options. It is strictly forbidden to use soldering, it will not help.
The fuel and/or air jets are clogged and cannot transfer the mixture to the combustion chamber;
You can only check by unscrewing the air filter cover and removing it along with the top carburetor cover. After unscrewing both types of jets, blow them with a stream of compressed air and screw them back in. There is no need to change.
The line of the electrical cable that transmits current through the circuit is damaged;
If you are not an electrician, then it will be difficult for you to determine which wire is damaged. Try only with the tester, starting from the ignition switch;
There is no gasoline in the gas tank ();
The diaphragm in the fuel pump does not work or is damaged (see.

Help with advice! The car is stored in a garage. In the morning you come to start the car (I pull out the choke and start it from the starter - the starter runs smoothly) - it won’t start. I remove the high-voltage wire from the distributor, connect the spark plug and connect it to ground, turn the ignition on to the starter - there is no spark. I asked a friend to start the car by towing, literally two or three meters the car starts and continues to start throughout the day. In the evening I park the car in the garage. In the morning again it won’t start. I change the ignition coil, switch, spark plugs. I clean the carburetor at the station, check the ignition switch, ignition relay - everything is in order. I'm charging the battery. In the morning it won't start again. Then I noticed that the engine seizes a little when you turn off the ignition, but that's where it ends. If you tow the car for a meter or two, it starts and runs perfectly all day long. But in the morning -... Help! Thanks in advance!

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

When you turn off the ignition, the starter turns off (at this time the engine is still spinning) and the voltage on the battery increases (when the starter turns on, it drops, especially when cold) and the ignition system has enough voltage and the engine seizes. What is the reason 1. Poor contact of ground or + at the starter. 2. The starter is drawing too much current due to its malfunction. 3. Bad ground or + on the commutator or coil. 4. faulty switch, coil. Fill out your profile!! Good luck on our routes!

2001-11-02 17:24

I'll add...

It is still possible that the switch is of low quality. There are a lot of them of poor quality! And it is advisable to check the resistance of the explosive wires if the silicone is of low quality with a resistance of up to 100Kohm and higher! And I join the rest of the advice! She's such a villager!

2001-11-02 20:55

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

There was just such a bug on the Toyota Corona! Cured by replacing the hall sensor. Good luck. Good traffic police officers to all.

2001-11-02 17:35

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

What if the lamp is turned on during startup? Will its lamp lose a lot of brightness? If it’s a lot, it means the battery still doesn’t hold up, or there’s a problem with the starter, such as a short circuit, and the sagging voltage is not enough for the ignition to work. — Anton, VAZ 21099 carb

2001-11-02 18:02

Crack in the distributor cover (-)

2001-11-02 18:16

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

Recently a friend had the same trick. Changed: switch, coil, Hall sensor, slider, BB wires - one x»%??; It didn’t start, but then it started with a push with half a kick. In general, they fucked up the whole next day - no emotions, and then - which is strange even for me - they changed the CN. And everything is fine again! So we don’t know how to make cars! All the best!

2001-11-03 21:25

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

Is everything okay with your battery? Did you try installing it from another car and it started, or did you throw wires from someone else’s car? I recently refused to start after a long period of parking (overnight in the garage), but when it was hot everything was OK. So I started with the battery and it turned out that it was moping, the starter was spinning, but the engine was not catching, all the electrical equipment was working fine, the voltage at the terminals was normal. With the new battery I forgot about the problem. Try it, maybe this is the reason for you too. Good luck, Maxim

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and... What the hell... One more time. Also... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car ...”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems occur there more often. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite...

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one

. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If your car has an electronic ignition, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls on ground, the electronics will instantly die. For the same reason, you should not scratch the wire across the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two.

Crank the engine with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Along such a “conductor” the spark readily jumps anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it is not harmful to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called “runner”. If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will have to be replaced.

Carefully check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the spark plugs - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and impressively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the turned-out candles, collect the candles in a bunch, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire directly along their threaded part. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed the bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with the starter. In this case, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the spark plugs in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is fine. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the spark plugs turned out. Don't twist for too long. It’s worse if at the second stage of testing there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “housing”. This means that the problem is not in high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if you don’t have one, you can use an under-hood light bulb. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage,

as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either supplied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. More often there is poor contact in the attachment of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows to an unknown destination. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath there remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you are convinced that voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t handle electronics (the switch and, less often, the sensor in the distributor housing) - you need special equipment to diagnose them. You can only tug on the sensor connector on the distributor body - maybe it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the breaker - they may oxidize, especially if the car has been standing still for some time. The contacts must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a special needle file.

Twitch the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull without fear. If cleaning does not help and voltage is still not supplied to the coil, we once again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (the light blinks when the contacts are pulled), restore everything that was loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, it will still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but is at least sneezing, turn out the spark plugs and... (see above). Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system has been checked, everything is fine, but the engine, even if you crack it, still won’t start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power supply system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection supply system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means it’s her, my dear. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and among artisans, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline is entering the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel pump lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline starts flowing, everything is fine, it’s time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not flow into it. If you have the time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to press the accelerator pedal sharply. Or you can sharply pull the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that there is no gasoline in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (this happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is cleaned by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with a stuck needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the specialists do this.

If there is a stream in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it quite often fails. On foreign cars, starting around the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when starting the engine. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting any manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. You don't have to install the air filter yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and God bless you (after returning the air filter to its place).. If, when checking the fuel supply with a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline does not come out of the hose or the stream is very thin, the cause must be sought in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. Booming, gurgling sounds should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive normally. If it's completely clogged, you won't be able to start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if you don’t have a new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the housing of a ballpoint pen, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car’s fuel pump is not working and you don’t have a spare one at hand – “Take another car...”.

We left a rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working normally, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you will have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain camshaft drive do not face this problem). The procedure for replacing the belt is not complicated, but it is troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It’s good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.

Fewer parasites

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, there is no point in providing operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep your battery viable longer. Don't get carried away with stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three “freeloaders” to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended connections yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Troubles.

If your battery is dying, try not to rev the engine during numerous stops in the city. Nothing abuses the battery more than frequent use of the starter.

And lastly (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips must be dry and clean and fit well to their “destination points”. Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed some of the superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deeper into the jungle. Not to provoke you into self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself should remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to your doctor. Helps the treatment a lot.

VAZ 21099 injector won't start? list of reasons why

It is a very sad situation when the VAZ 21099 injector does not start. Domestic cars are not famous for their reliability, therefore, you need to be able to find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it if you own a VAZ. On this page we will tell you why the nine may not start and how to fix the main problems in a garage environment. Particular attention will be paid to the injection system, because understanding it is much more difficult than understanding that the starter does not turn.

The VAZ 21099 injector does not start for several reasons, there are not many of them, it will be possible to consider everything in detail. The good thing is that the injection system on this model is the simplest, so repairs and troubleshooting will not be difficult. It is important to know which elements are responsible for starting the engine and look for problems with them.

In order for the injection engine to start, the electronic control unit (ECU) must receive signals from almost all sensors that are under the hood. If one of the main sensors fails, the engine will not start. It is worth saying that most often the problem lies in the sensors.

Sensors that are involved in starting the engine:

Crankshaft sensor;
Temperature sensor;
Mass air flow sensor (MAF);
Idle air control (IAC);
Throttle sensor.

In principle, the engine can start and run even without several sensors, however, if the crankshaft sensor fails, then the engine will not be able to start. Symptoms of a non-working crankshaft sensor are as follows: the starter turns and no changes occur, the engine does not “catch” even when the gas pedal is pressed. If with such symptoms you are sure that everything else is in order, you need to inspect the wiring of the DC; at the place where the connector is connected, the wires often break off. When the wires are intact, we can conclude that the DC is faulty. We buy a new recreation center and put it in place.

If the engine somehow “cages”, but does not start normally, it feels like two or three cylinders are working, then we look for the reason in other sensors. The first step is to remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor, because there is a possibility that this sensor gives incorrect readings on the amount of air and the ECU calculates the incorrect amount of gasoline. If this is the reason, then when the chip is removed from this sensor, the engine will start normally and will maintain increased speed at idle, this will mean operation in emergency mode.

In the case where removing the chip from the mass air flow sensor did not change the situation in any way, the engine continues to seize a little, we continue to look for the problem. While the starter is rotating, you can try pressing the gas pedal. With a high probability, the engine will start, and if you don’t give it more gas, it will immediately stall. This situation tells us that one of the sensors is faulty, except for the crankshaft sensor; if it breaks down, as we already understand, the engine cannot be started.

The easiest way is to find a person with a fuel-injected 8-valve engine that works properly, and install the sensors one at a time from his car onto yours. In this way, it is worth checking only three sensors: the temperature sensor (which is in the thermostat housing), the throttle sensor and the idle speed control. When the “culprit” is found, you need to buy the same sensor and replace it.

Diagnostics

Diagnosis of why the car takes a long time to start the injector
So, to determine the specific reason for the long start of the injection engine, you should start with a quality diagnosis. Usually, they check the compression in the cylinders. Its values must be within 12 atm for this to be considered normal. In this case, there should be no deviations between these indicators in each of the cylinders (maximum - 1 atm).

Then the spark plugs must be replaced. This will have an effect on the engine and it will now start much faster. However, if everything is not in order with the motor, then the normal starting time will last only 1-2 days.

Therefore, high-voltage wires should also be diagnosed. Diagnostics will make it possible to find out whether the cables have a breakdown, which is clearly visible by the spark coming out at night. This is done as follows: the car starts in the dark, at the same time you need to monitor which wire sparks.

The ignition coil also needs to be checked. Many experienced drivers do this: they install a known good and new module instead of the original one, then check the engine starting for several days. If everything is normal, the start-up does not take long - it means that the whole problem was in the bobbin (ignition coil).

If there are no changes, the test continues. This time you should test all filters, including the air filter. Next - check and replace all sensors and regulators

Pay special attention to the air flow sensor

The next stage: testing various connections, checking the wiring for good contact, cleaning the masses and flushing the throttle assembly.

If nothing changes again, then it is recommended to check the engine fan relay. It often causes similar problems with starting on a fuel-injected internal combustion engine. You can test the relay if you remove the wire from the temperature controller installed on the thermostat.

Engine fan relay

The fan should turn on after these steps. However, after measuring the resistance value on a warm internal combustion engine, the system can produce low temperature data, although the temperature inside the engine is clearly more than 90 degrees. Why is there such a difference? It turns out that this may well be a buggy DTOZH, which for some reason was not checked earlier. It must show the real coolant temperature, otherwise chaos will begin in the system, and it is not surprising that the engine takes so long to start.

VAZ 2109 will not start

Car engine power calculator

5 ways to calculate car engine power. Calculator for determining the power of an internal combustion engine online Often, drivers are faced with the fact that their VAZ 2109 stops starting for some reason. If the car does not start, the question immediately arises, “Where to start?” In fact, everything can be quite simple, and in 90% of cases this is a typical problem that is quite easy to diagnose and solve.

When starting the engine, there is no response when turning the key

If a pungent odor appears when starting the starter, we can say that a short circuit has occurred. If there is no such effect, you should check the tightness of the terminals. Make sure the additional relay is working properly. The cause may also be deformation of the ring, which is located in the starter gearbox.

Often, visible or invisible damage to the key itself is the cause of failure to start the engine. Even if no damage is found, there is no need to rush to buy another one. It should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated thoroughly. Perhaps after this it will continue to operate as normal.

After the repair has been carried out, do not put too much load on this small unit. After all, in fact, it begins the process of rotation of the massive flywheel and the operation of a group of engine pistons.

You should also know that the main task of the starter is to set the crankshaft of the car in motion until the spark catches the engine.

VAZ-2109 does not start - what to do?

In general, diagnosing malfunctions of the controller (computer) and control system sensors, as well as the VAZ-2109 injector itself, is not much different from similar work for other cars. But due to the peculiarities of the “nine” control system, experienced owners of this car recommend the following solutions.

Most often, the injection “nine” does not start in winter. In this case, it is advisable to warm up and even recharge the battery - perhaps due to loss of capacity due to low temperature, it is not able to spin the engine shaft well.

Another “folk” method that helps is supplying air to the engine filter through a hairdryer. At the same time, heated air will flow into the cylinders. Many people claim that the VAZ starts right away.

Another possible reason: as a result of prolonged unsuccessful attempts to start, the spark plugs were filled with gasoline. In this case, it is recommended to try to start the car with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the floor - the spark plugs should dry out and the car will start. If this does not help, then unscrew the spark plugs and check for the presence of a spark. If it is not there, then either the spark plugs or the ignition system are faulty.

Checking injectors and timing belt

When there is a spark and its color is bright bluish, check the fuel supply: turn out the injectors and turn the engine shaft with the starter. The fuel should be sprayed from the nozzle in a uniform cone-shaped “torch”. If instead the injector pours gasoline or splashes it, then it is clogged.

If the tested components are working, then look at the timing belt. Owners of the injection “nine” have more than once encountered the situation of the belt slipping by several teeth. In winter, this can happen when starting a cold engine when the camshaft rotates heavily. To check, look at the timing mark. If it matches, check the crankshaft sensor and its wire (sometimes it comes off). Then the remaining sensors are checked.

Description of power supply

First, let's look at the description of mounting blocks with fuses and relays on a VAZ 21099 carburetor or injector with a high and low panel. In the ninety-ninth VAZ models, two types of shields can be used - new and old. Devices belonging to the old-style category are marked 17.3722. These devices are equipped with finger safety mechanisms made in a cylindrical housing. They were installed by engineers on cars produced in 1997 and early years. As for the new type of blocks, they were installed on vehicles manufactured after 1998. These products are equipped with U-shaped safety elements.

Blocks of the new model on the VAZ 21099 of 1999 and later years of production can be marked with the following markings:

We monitor the quality of fuel

A faulty fuel filter can also prevent your car from starting properly. Due to bad gasoline, which is sold mainly by gas stations of unknown origin, the fuel filter becomes clogged.

Fortunately for VAZ 21099 car owners, the manufacturer produces fuel filters in a transparent plastic housing.

You can visually determine the level of contamination. To eliminate the problem, replace the fuel filter

On injectors, when you turn the ignition key, the pump pumps fuel, the sound is barely noticeable, but it can be heard. If it is missing, then the pump needs to be repaired or replaced.

The spark plugs may have been flooded; there are several reasons leading to this event. After much torment, you cannot understand why the car does not start, then the time has come to check the spark plugs. To experiment, you can wipe them with a dry cloth and screw them in again.

How to start an injector “from the pusher”?

This method of starting a car implies that your car should start while moving. To do this, just ask one of your neighbors to push your vehicle.

Before we talk about the features of this starting method, we note that it is only suitable for cars with a manual transmission. If you have an automatic transmission, you can start the injector in cold weather only using the two methods described above.

So what needs to be done? First, the car is put in 3rd gear, after which you sit behind the wheel, and your neighbor begins to push the car forward. As soon as you have driven 5-6 meters, you can safely turn the ignition key. As practice shows, this method works even with a discharged battery.

VAZ 21099 injector does not start? List of reasons why

Getting into the car one morning, you discover that the VAZ 21099 injector will not start
.
Many people will have a lot of questions, what to do next? There are a wide variety of reasons why a car does not start, especially a domestic one. But first things first. Main reasons
If, when you turn the key in the ignition switch, the injection VAZ 21099 does not start, i.e.
you do not hear the characteristic sound of the starter
, then you should try starting it with a pusher. Started up? This means the problem is in the starter or battery.

To determine that the battery is reaching the end of its life, you should turn the ignition key and listen to the starter; in the first second, the solenoid relay should operate, the process is accompanied by small clicks. But if the starter does not rotate, then the battery most likely requires attention. It may need to be replaced.

In general, there are enough reasons why the battery remains uncharged. For example, the generator pulley has become loose and the battery does not receive a proper charge while driving, or there is poor contact on the brands.

The simplest and most effective way

Testing the battery means replacing it with a working car.

Problems with the starter relay

. On 99 VAZ models, the relay is located in the hood compartment, in the central part, almost under the wipers. You can find out more by checking out their guide.

this relay can be confused with a pull-in relay, so to determine the relay we need, place your finger on its body and ask someone to start the engine.

You should feel a slight click, after which the retractor relay will operate in the engine itself (or rather in the starter). But this is an ideal scenario, if this does not happen, the culprit is the first relay requires replacement.

Remember that injection engines are more complex in design than carburetor engines. They are based on an electrical circuit that is responsible for controlling the operation of the engine. It's a complex system that sometimes fails.

If you are not a professional electrician, then welcome to the service station, where you will be given a complete diagnosis of the injection engine.

We monitor the quality of fuel

A faulty fuel filter can also prevent your car from starting properly. Due to bad gasoline, which is sold mainly by gas stations of unknown origin, the fuel filter becomes clogged.

Fortunately for VAZ 21099 car owners, the manufacturer produces fuel filters in a transparent plastic housing.

You can visually determine the level of contamination. To eliminate the problem, replace the fuel filter

On injectors, when you turn the ignition key, the pump pumps fuel, the sound is barely noticeable, but it can be heard. If it is missing, the pump requires repair or replacement.

About DTOZH

In general, power unit temperature sensors are the most important regulators of an injection engine. There are two of them on it. One is located directly in the cylinder head, it displays the temperature value on the instrument panel.

The second one is located in the thermostat, and provides data on the temperature of the control unit of the power unit. Based on the results obtained, the control unit regulates the fuel supply - it supplies more fuel to a cold internal combustion engine, and less to a hot one. In addition, it is the control unit that regulates the OZ, influences the ignition of the fuel assembly, and activates the coolant fan if the liquid temperature rises above 100 °C.

Obviously, with faulty DTOZh there will be difficulties in the operation of the motor. However, this applies more to the DTOZH, which provides information directly to the block. For example, if the DTOZH is faulty, it will give false values about a cold engine, although it is already boiling. The supply of fuel to the cylinders will increase, because this is provided by the system. Let's say you drove for a long time, then stopped and went into a store. Now starting the power unit will cause obvious displeasure, since it will take a very long time to start due to data failures and oversaturation.

Why does the injector take a long time to start due to DTOZH

At the same time, the SOP, which is responsible for the ignition of a fuel assembly that is clearly over-enriched, changes greatly. As a result, the fuel will evaporate intensively, and the concentration of gasoline in the fuel assembly will be so high that the mixture will hardly ignite due to the small amount of oxygen.

It was said above that when you press the accelerator pedal, the startup time will be noticeably reduced. Now it becomes clear why this happens. By pressing the gas, we add oxygen to the fuel assembly, and the fuel ignites faster.

Thus, by replacing a faulty DTOZh, you can solve not only the problem with long-term starting of the internal combustion engine, but also other difficulties relating to the process of engine operation and its cooling system. The engine, after replacing the faulty DTOZH, will add stability, throttle response and power.

Possible malfunctions of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110

One of the major malfunctions of the fuel supply system are:

failure of the fuel pump.

clogged fuel line

clogged distributed injection nozzles

To diagnose the performance of the fuel supply pump, it is necessary to remove the hose from the fuel rail and check the pressure in the system. If necessary, the pressure is measured with a special pressure gauge. If there is no pressure in the fuel line, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the fuel pump, as well as the correct operation of the electrical circuit.

Clogged fuel injector nozzles can be checked by removing the fuel rail. A working fuel injector should spray fuel into a vapor state. A faulty or clogged nozzle does not spray, gasoline may not flow at all, or may flow in a stream.

Failure of all injection nozzles to pass through may also indicate improper operation of the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit.

Common causes of failure

If on a VAZ 2109 the injector or carburetor stops starting the engine, and the starter does not click, this may be due to various malfunctions.

In general, it should be noted that there can be several options for a malfunction of the starter unit:

When you turn the key, the device operates once, that is, only one click is heard.
When I try to start, there are several clicks, but the engine does not start.
The starter on the VAZ 2109 carburetor does not work completely - there are no clicks.

VAZ 2109 injector does not start when hot

Modern cars are gradually moving from the concept of mechanisms to the concept of organisms. This is a highly complex system that requires ideal operating conditions. High engine power, squeezing everything that can be squeezed out of technology, and other features of the modern automobile industry indicate that modern cars must receive maximum care in order to work for a long time. One of the common problems that arise from improper car care is poor engine starting after it warms up. This means that if you park for a few minutes near the store, you will not be able to start the engine properly. The problem lies in two possible types of breakdowns, but there are also extraordinary cases. Today we will deal with the most common problems in this case, and also talk about specific types of problems.

It should be noted that the symptoms of poor hot starting can manifest themselves in different ways. One car refuses to start at all until the engine cools down a certain amount. Another power unit starts only on the third or fourth try, and the third one simply has to be cranked for a long time to start. In any case, no matter what happens to your car in this context, you need to find the problem and be sure to fix it. This task is a harbinger of more serious breakdowns, the repair of which will cost you much more money. So let's figure out why the car doesn't start well when it's hot.

How to measure the oil level correctly

The oil level on the dipstick rod may vary. Therefore, in order to accurately determine how much oil is in the internal combustion engine, you must follow the following recommendations:

Park the car on level ground. After all, if the car is parked on a slope on either side, the oil in the crankcase will accumulate in one corner and the dipstick will show a low oil level.
Do not measure the level “hot”, that is, after the engine has been running, you must let it cool. I think everyone knows that when heated, substances increase in volume. If you measure when the engine is hot, the level will show more than real.
There are marks on the automatic transmission dipsticks when the oil level should be at the HOT mark (when the automatic transmission is hot) and at the COOL mark (when the automatic transmission is cold). Convenient, no need to wait for it to cool down.
We take out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag. It can only be determined accurately after repeated immersion in oil.
Insert the dipstick into place into the crankcase all the way.
We look at where the oil ends on the dipstick and where this level is. The normal level is the “golden mean”, between the min and max marks.
If the level is below the minimum mark or close to it, then you need to add oil. The engine oil must be exactly the same as that which was filled. If, for example, Lukoil oil marked 5w-40 is poured, then fill in the same. If synthetic oil was added and mineral or semi-synthetic oil was added, the oil will react and curdle, after which you will have to completely drain the oil, flush the internal combustion engine system, buy new oil and refill.
If the level is above the maximum mark or close to it, then the best option would be to drain some of the oil by unscrewing the drain bolt at the bottom of the crankcase. If you do not do this, you may squeeze out the seals, which will have to be replaced later.

When checking the oil level, you must also check the quality of the oil. You can see from the oil on the dipstick whether it is transparent or not. It happens that the oil is completely black. In this case, of course, you should replace it immediately.

When changing the oil, the oil filter must also be changed. If after changing the oil and filter, the oil pressure icon on the instrument panel lights up and does not go out, then you need to unscrew the oil filter and screw it back in (there is an air lock in the oil filter), although a little oil will leak out, but this is not critical, I think. If the oil filter, volume and characteristics of the oil are responsible for the oil pressure in the system, then the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is responsible for the fuel pressure supplied to the injectors.

How often to check the engine oil level

Different engines have different operating instructions. In addition, the oil change period depends on the quality of the oil itself.

For low-speed, low-power engines, the normal mileage for oil changes is 15,000 km. As for replacing the fuel filter, its service life is 60,000 km or varies according to the degree of contamination.