Why does the VAZ-2114 not start, the starter turns and what to do

Failures in the fuel system

It’s worth noting right away that there is no point in considering major engine breakdowns, since the average driver will neither be able to diagnose nor repair them, so you should pay attention not to those faults that can be eliminated with your own hands or in a short time.

For example, if a VAZ-2114 does not start, it is worth checking its fuel system, and first of all, you need to take care of the following aspects:

• presence of fuel in the gas tank (the sensor may be wrong);
• the integrity of the gas pipelines running along the bottom of the car from the tank to the engine;
• serviceability of the coarse filter in the fuel tank;
• the serviceability of the fine filter in the tank below, near the spare wheel.

Controller and fuel pump relay VAZ 2114

Of course, both the fuel pump itself and its relay can fail, which can partly be attributed to the car’s electrical network. You can determine the breakdown yourself by listening after turning the key in the ignition to the characteristic sound of fuel pumping - if there is none, the pump, relay or wiring is faulty.

Additionally, according to the instructions, you can connect a pressure gauge to the fuel network, measuring the fuel pressure in it: a reading below two and a half atmospheres will indicate an unlikely leak. In such a case, you will need to look for leaks in the tank and gas lines - for this it is better to drive the car into a pit.

Gasoline pump VAZ 2114

Unlike the coarse filter, the mesh in the tank under the bottom of the VAZ-2114 may well become clogged and littered, so it is worth checking it first if other faults are excluded.

Electrical faults

Most of the problems lie here, so we’ll look at each option in detail here:

Nothing happens when I turn the key

On a VAZ 2114, this usually indicates a violation in the ignition switch - starter line, but one of the reasons for the breakdown “for blondes” is a dead battery, do not forget about it (checked with a voltmeter: it should be at least 11.8 V - and with a hydrometer, if the battery is serviceable : at least 1.22 in each jar).

Let's move on. The cause of such a malfunction may be a breakdown of the ignition switch cylinder, and the injector has nothing to do with it. If, when turning the key, new sensations arise (something catches, turning has become easier or, conversely, more difficult), that’s the problem.

No ignition when turning the key

The second broad area of ​​searching for the problem is the electrical system of the car, due to a malfunction in one of the components of which the VAZ-2114 does not start and does not respond at all to turning the key in the ignition switch. To begin with, just in case, it’s worth checking the functionality of the battery under the hood: many drivers, when starting a deep search for a breakdown, forget about such a banal reason for the lack of current.

You must carefully and calmly make sure that the ignition switch itself turns smoothly, without encountering obstacles or jamming, which in theory could lead to an unsuccessful engine start

VAZ 2114 battery

Next, you should turn your attention to more specific components and assemblies, checking their serviceability one by one:

1. Check the instructions for two relays - the starter and the ignition switch, which are located above the clutch pedal. You can evaluate their performance using the car manual, but usually they are simply replaced with ones that are known to be good for diagnostic purposes.
2. A faulty starter, or more precisely, a solenoid relay: if it breaks down on the road, you can try tapping it lightly if it just jams. Having reached the overpass, you need to turn it manually - connect the body to zero on the battery, and the other contact to positive.
3. If the starter actively begins to turn, the problem is not with it; if there is a current supply, but it does not turn, the brushes are broken. Lack of response will indicate a malfunction of the retractor relay, and a sharp and unpleasant sound will indicate a breakdown of the overrunning clutch in the starter.

Starter VAZ 2114

The connection of the contacts itself also requires study, since it is likely that they have broken or oxidized due to moisture - they will need to be cleaned or re-twisted, and then insulated.

We diagnose the starter

To remove the starter and inspect it for faults at home, you can use a step-by-step algorithm:
Step 1: put the VAZ-2114 in a repair pit.

Step 2: remove the car engine protection.

Step 3: Open the hood.

Step 4: Remove the battery "-" terminal.

Step 5: Disconnect the wiring harness.

Step 6: Remove the crankcase protection.

Step 7: Unscrew the fastening nut to remove the wires from the traction relay.

Step 8: You should also unscrew the two starter mountings from the bottom of the car.

Step 9: Remove the last top fastener.

Step 10: remove the starter (this is done from the bottom of the car).

After removing this VAZ-2114 part, it is visually inspected for the presence of external damage and malfunctions. If everything is in perfect order, then the removed part should be disassembled element by element and a thorough inspection of each element should be carried out:

• unscrew the retaining nut;
• release the solenoid relay from the wire;
• unscrew the bolts securing this relay from the back cover;
• remove the retaining ring, which is located on the back of the rotor;
• Unscrew the nuts from the studs and the bolts securing the wires from the windings to the brush holder;
• remove the brush assembly;
• remove the pin that secures the Bendix fork;
• remove the rotor and stator separately;
• Remove the retaining ring from the rotor.

After all the described operations, you can begin to inspect the overrunning clutch and gearbox, namely the gears that are part of them. It’s worth immediately inspecting other elements of the starter that affect the functioning of the vehicle as a whole. Experts include irreparable breakdowns of the main elements of this part:

• rotor failure;
• stator failure;
• destruction of the rotor and/or stator windings;
• broken bushing.

In these cases, it is better to replace the old starter with a new one than to repair it.

No spark at the spark plug

Just among all the reasons that the VAZ-2114 turns over but does not start, most often motorists are faced with the absence of a spark at the spark plug. You can check this this way: by unscrewing one spark plug, connect it to a high-voltage wire and carefully, touching only the insulated parts, apply it to the cylinder head cover. At the same time, a second person must turn the starter from the passenger compartment, and if there is no spark, we need to look for the problem.

Difference between new and old candle

If the VAZ-2114 injector does not start, you need to pay attention, firstly, to the ignition module and the chip that is connected to it - these components not only often break, but also often come from the factory defective.

The condition of the crankshaft position sensor should be assessed: by monitoring the phases of movement of the cylinders in the block, it is an important component of the entire ignition system.

Although this sensor does not break down very often, it is necessary to check it, although in the absence of service it is practically impossible to do this - a professional oscilloscope is required.

Finally, a unit such as the electronic control unit of the injector could fail: electronic brains tend to fail on more expensive cars, so it is necessary to organize basic diagnostics for them:

• apply a spark to the first and third or second and fourth cylinders;
• recognize injection phase irregularities;
• As a preventative measure, clean the contacts on the electronic control unit from oxidation.

Technical characteristics of VAZ 2114

Before studying the issues of repairing the VAZ 2114, you should first consider the technical data of this car. Samara 2 is a solid, practical car from a domestic manufacturer that entered the sales arena in 2001. The model is a five-door hatchback designed for five passengers.

The car has a light, laconic, very pleasant design, suitable for all segments of the consumer audience. The development of Samara 2 was based on the principle of universality. The length of the car is 4,122 mm, width - 1,650 mm, height - 1,402 mm, wheelbase is 2,460 mm.

The “fourteenth” differs from its predecessor in a more original body design, especially the front bumper. Other headlights also bring a sense of novelty; although they still have a classic, rigid shape, there is still a break from the previous conservative order.

If previously the headlights were exclusively rectangular in shape, then in Samara 2 they have the shape of a parallelepiped. The radiator grille trim is new; in addition, it is worth noting the presence of moldings, which not only serve as a decorative element, but also protect the surfaces from scuffs and chips.

The salon has a nice, cozy atmosphere. The steering wheel is borrowed from the tenth model, perfectly adjustable and comfortable. There is a good heating system. A new dashboard has been installed, which fits best into the interior concept. In addition, there is a wide range of options for tuning, so you can change everything at any time as you wish.

Under the hood of the car, initially only one 1.6-liter 8-valve gasoline engine was installed, accelerating the car to a maximum speed of 162 km/h. But in 2007, a restyling stage took place, as a result of which the car was updated both externally and technically. A new 16-valve 1.6-liter engine has appeared, which has more capabilities.

The maximum speed of the car is 193 km/h. The power units are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission and front-wheel drive. The production of the model was completed in 2013, but even today the VAZ 2114 occupies one of the leading positions in the overall ranking of the most popular cars in Russia.

There is a spark, but the engine does not start

If the starter turns, there is fuel in the tank, the pump delivers it, and the spark plug gives a spark - but the engine still does not start - you will have to turn to more specific units, since this situation is uncommon in the practice of owning a VAZ-2114.

First, you will need to check the injectors: this cannot be done in a garage; you will need to tow the car to a repair shop and clean them with ultrasound. If there is a breakdown on the road, you can easily diagnose faulty injectors - if the spark plugs are dry and not filled with gasoline, it means the injectors are not supplying fuel.

Another thing is that something incredible must happen for them to break in all four cylinders at the same time, and before that they did not force the engine to triple for some time.

Checking the injectors of the VAZ 2114

Even less common are problems with insufficient pressure in the fuel system, caused by failures in various electronic sensors of injection VAZs. In addition to the pump, for some reason the throttle position sensor or mass air flow sensor may fail. The electronic injector control unit will simply not allow the engine to start if at least one of the sensors gives it an error when accessed.

Other Possible Causes

If the clearances between parts change, the engine may knock. This change most often affects cars with high mileage. There are often cases when the appearance of knocking is caused by deformation of parts, but perhaps everything is much simpler - a low-quality spare part with an imbalance and geometry was installed. Misalignment may occur as a result of incorrect replacement of any part. Therefore, it is best to entrust the replacement of spare parts and components to a knowledgeable person - a specialist.

Another reason why the engine runs loudly may be a lack of oil supply to a certain part, which leads to the fact that when it overheats, it begins to expand and knock on neighboring parts. The engine also makes a very loud sound during operation if there is not enough oil. Therefore, when listening to the operation of your engine and discovering changes, it is best to immediately begin searching for the causes or entrust this elimination of defects to specialists. If you miss the timely repair of a particular breakdown, you can end up with expensive repairs.

timing belt

Another reason that can cause a very loud engine is the timing belt tensioner. This is not a very complicated problem and can be fixed on your own. This is due to the fact that the target relaxes over long periods of use, which results in loud operation as the speed increases, but as the speed drops, it goes away. A stretched chain can lead to a shift in valve timing, resulting in interruptions in engine operation. This means that to solve this problem, it is necessary to adjust the chain tension.

To solve this problem, it is enough to prepare a standard set of tools for motorists. What needs to be done:

• When discharging the tensioner, unscrew the cap nut. As a result, the chain shoe snaps off with a characteristic sound. If this does not happen, then the explanation for this may be that the tensioner plunger is jammed. To do this, just tap on its body with a hammer.
• Rotate the pulley several revolutions and stop the crankshaft at the moment of greater resistance to rotation, which will lead to tension on the timing chain.
• While holding the crankshaft from turning, tighten the cap nut.

There are times when the engine suddenly begins to “growl” like a tractor and twitches at the same time, but when starting to move, it begins to work more quietly, that is, as expected, according to experts, it is recommended to clean the idle speed control.

In reality, there may be even more reasons for the loud operation of the engine - it is a burned out muffler, or it may be necessary to replace a worn gasket. Be that as it may, every problem must be solved either independently or by contacting special service stations.

Useful tips

Additionally, experts advise turning your attention, when all other options have already been excluded, to the timing belt - when replacing it, the technicians could have set the phases incorrectly.

In addition, a banal belt break or excessive rotation is likely.

Very exceptional situations include a skewed cylinder head (for example, due to overheating), impaired compression in the cylinders and misaligned rings.

Gasoline for VAZ 2114

One should not discount such a banal reason as low-quality fuel: in places far from cities, where there is nothing to choose from, cunning entrepreneurs can pour in a completely indecent mixture.

The engine will not start immediately from such gasoline, which will serve as an additional diagnostic sign, and there can only be one solution - drain the low-quality fuel and fill it with normal gasoline. In such situations, however, there is nowhere to take it from, so you will have to rely on a tow truck or compassionate motorists who will stop to help.

DTOZh replacement procedure and timing

The procedure for replacing the DTOZh may differ depending on the car model. At the VAZ, to carry out the process, you need to prepare several tools, including the obligatory set of wrenches.

According to the classic scenario, the coolant will have to be drained, otherwise replacing the DTOZH cannot be called correct. Although there are several replacement options that do not involve draining.

As mentioned above, one of the DTOZH is located in the thermostat. It screws in from the side. The second is located a little lower, wrapped in the cylinder head.

A little about the timing of replacement of DTOZH. If we are talking about a regulator that goes to the pointer, then it must be replaced at the very moment when the temperature values ​​​​go astray. This is easy to check: for example, when the engine is cold, the coolant needle tends to the red zone or simply wanders. This is an error and requires correction, i.e., replacement of the sensor.

In some cases, it also happens that it is not the regulator itself that is to blame, but the wiring or contact. You need to check everything, and only then decide whether to change it or not. Testing the wiring is also easy: the wires are disconnected from the DTOZH, the ignition is turned on and a short to ground is made. If the arrow jumps up, then everything is in order with the wiring.

The second DTOZH changes if the machine itself is not working properly. For example, the speed of a cold engine does not increase, but when it is hot it reaches a value of 1500 rpm. Fault number 2 can also be judged by the cooling fan, which turns on too early or does not do so at all.

Temperature controllers that have been removed are easiest to check. They must be immersed in boiled water heated to certain values, then connect an ohmmeter to measure the resistance coming from the DTOZH.