How to set timing marks for a VAZ-2112 16 valves: photos and videos

VAZ camshaft drive diagram: 1 — crankshaft toothed pulley; 2 — toothed pulley of the coolant pump; 3 - tension roller; 4 — rear protective cover; 5 - camshaft toothed pulley; 6 — toothed belt; A - installation ledge on the rear protective cover; B - mark on the camshaft pulley; C - mark on the oil pump cover; D - mark on the crankshaft pulley

This replacement of the timing belt on the injection engine of the VAZ 2111 family, VAZ 2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts of the front timing cover: two on the side and one in the center.

Removing the VAZ timing cover

To adjust the belt tension, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the mark on the camshaft pulley moves down from the rear cover antenna by two teeth.

With normal belt tension, its front branch should be twisted 90° with the thumb and forefinger with a force of 15-20 N (1.5-2.0 kgf). Excessive belt tension will reduce the life of the belt, as well as the coolant pump bearings and tension pulley.

To replace the timing belt, remove the alternator drive belt. Remove the right wheel and the right mudguard of the engine compartment.

Using the “19” socket, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the pulley mounting bolt until the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley aligns with the installation lug on the rear timing cover.

By removing the rubber plug in the upper part of the clutch housing, we make sure that the mark on the flywheel is located opposite the slot in the clutch housing cover. (The coolant supply hose to the radiator has been removed for clarity.)

This is how the mark should be located on the engine flywheel (with the gearbox and cylinder head removed).

Removing the crankshaft position sensor

We fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the hole in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.

Unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley.

Remove the generator drive pulley.

Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the nut securing the tension roller.

Turn the tension roller to a position in which the belt will be loosened as much as possible.

We remove the VAZ timing belt.

When replacing the tension roller, unscrew the nut securing it and remove the roller from the stud.

A spacer washer is installed under the roller.

Install the timing belt in reverse order. We put the belt on the crankshaft pulley. Then we put the rear branch on the coolant pump pulley and place it behind the tension roller. We put the belt on the camshaft pulley.

A special key. or by inserting a screwdriver between two screws or rods with a diameter of 4 mm installed in the holes of the tension roller, turn the roller counterclockwise, tensioning the belt. Tighten the nut securing the tension roller and remove the rods or screws.

We screw the bolt securing the generator drive pulley into place and using the 19-inch head, turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise by the bolt.

We check the alignment marks of the crankshaft and camshaft.

Timing marks - installation of timing marks using the example of a VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 engine

Dear friends, today we will tell you the basics of setting timing marks using the example of a VAZ 16 valve engine. It's no secret that correctly set timing marks are the key to proper engine operation. If the marks are set incorrectly, then normal engine operation is impossible.

It is also important to tension the belt correctly, this greatly affects its durability. So, when do we have to deal with the procedure for setting timing marks? When, according to the regulations, we need to replace the timing belt at the next maintenance, by the way, the rollers are also necessarily changed along with the belt in this case

Also, if our pump is “covered,” the timing belt will have to be removed, since it is this that drives our “water pump.” Well, what if (the worst case scenario) is that our belt broke. Here, if the engine is “plug-in”, then this is a huge nuisance, the pistons meet the valves, and at a minimum, we are guaranteed to remove the cylinder head and replace the valves. So, what are timing marks and where are they applied? The first is the marks on the camshaft pulleys, both on the intake and exhaust:

They must coincide with the mark on the crankshaft, and there are already several methods for calculating this mark. It’s quite difficult to remove the generator belt pulley (it doesn’t allow you to see the mark) and see if the marks match.

With such a coincidence of the piston marks, they are at TDC (Top Dead Center)

The second method is to calculate the DPKV sprocket by the teeth

Set the timing marks correctly - otherwise you will bend the valves!

The VAZ-21124 engine has a special feature: no matter how its pulleys are turned, it does not bend its valves. With the 21120 engine (16 v 1.5 l) such jokes will not work! If the pulley positions are not too far off, try putting on the belt and turning the mechanism to the “TDC 1 and 4” position. From now on, always use the following instructions:

The crankshaft is set to the required position by checking the mark on the generator drive pulley (photo 1) or on the crankshaft pulley (photo 2);

Alternator drive pulley and crankshaft pulley

Exhaust and intake shaft pulley

In theory, on the VAZ-2112, marking is carried out the same way, no matter what engine we are talking about. Here are photos for engine 21120.

What it looks like in reality and in the instructions

Take the time to find the inspection window on the gearbox housing. There is another mark under the plug.

The last step is optional. And they do it so as not to redo all the work “from scratch.”

The number of belt teeth between the “upper pulley” marks is exactly 16;
The mark on the crankshaft pulley sometimes breaks off - use the control method “1” (photo 1) or “3” (lower photo).

Updates for VAZ-21124

On a 1.6 engine, all actions are performed in the same way as described above. There is one exception - the generator drive pulley is aligned according to the mark on the casing (see photo).

Generator drive pulley, motor 21124

However, if this mark is not there, use the proven method: 20 teeth are counted from the DPKV body. Instead of the 21st there should be a “pass”.

The timing pulleys can be rotated as you like - the pistons will not touch the valves in any case. Compare what the pistons of two different engines look like and it will become clear what we are talking about.

For those who don't understand anything

The number of teeth on the crankshaft pulley is 21, on the camshaft pulleys – 42. When the crankshaft rotates 360 degrees, the camshafts rotate 180. In general, a complete engine cycle consists of two crankshaft revolutions (720 degrees).

In theory, you can use an alternative configuration method. Let the camshaft pulley marks point straight down. Then the mark on the crankshaft pulley should face up (TDC 1 and 4).

If there is no fixing device, you can make it yourself. Even a puller for suspension springs will do (see photo).

Timing belt price

The price of a VAZ 2110 timing belt, depending on the manufacturer, can vary from 400 to 1000 rubles. The tension roller costs about the same, which is recommended to be changed along with the belt. The cost of replacing these timing drive elements is 600-1000 rubles.

To save money, you can replace the belt and roller yourself. There is nothing complicated in this procedure, and no special tools are required. You just need to purchase spare parts.

The table below shows timing belt models for the 8-valve VAZ 2110 from different manufacturers, indicating their catalog numbers.

TIMING BELT VAZ 2110 (8 VALVES)
AVTOVAZ	2112-1006040
BOSCH	1987949559
CONTI	CT996
CONTITECH	CT 996
GOODYEAR	G1535
GATES	5539
FLENNOR	4428
LUZAR	LTB0112
LYNX	136CL254
PILENGA	CTP0996
OPTIBELT	ZRK1538
TENSION ROLLER
AVTOVAZ	21120-100612000

What will you need for the job?

The least that can happen is that the size of the belt will increase from stretching so much that it will jump on the gear teeth by one or even two links, and the valve timing will be disrupted and the engine will begin to operate with severe interruptions. In the worst case scenario, it can end with a broken belt and bent valves. It would not be superfluous to periodically visually inspect the technical condition of the timing belt assembly; to do this, you just need to remove the protective plastic casing. The presence of deep cracks on the surface of the belt indicates that trouble may soon await you, and at the most inopportune moment, so it is better to change the product. It is worth examining the nearby VAZ 2110 alternator belt.

The manufacturer’s recommendations since the advent of the timing belt instead of a chain are clear:

It is best to change the product complete with tension rollers. The VAZ “ten” was equipped with two types of engines: 8- and 16-valve. The first has one tension roller, the second has a tension and support roller. Replacing the timing belt on the tenth VAZ model is not a complex and very labor-intensive type of work; it can be done on your own, with the required minimum of tools:

It is better to use fabric gloves at any time of the year; they are needed to protect your hands from minor injuries that can be caused by loosening threaded connections. Any car mechanic knows firsthand how this happens. An inspection ditch is not required here, but removing the right wheel may well be necessary when removing the alternator belt of a VAZ 2110 equipped with a power steering (power steering), so you need to have a jack.

How to set timing marks VAZ-2112 16 valves

A break in the timing belt of the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine can lead to bending of the valves. The result is an expensive engine overhaul. To prevent this from happening, you need to promptly replace the VAZ 2112 timing belt. Moreover, you can do it yourself.

The belt has a resource - a set service life. If this period has expired, the spare part must be replaced even if it looks normal. After all, a break can happen at any moment.

When asked how many kilometers it is necessary to replace the belt so that the belt does not break, experienced car enthusiasts give different answers. Some believe that after 50–60 thousand kilometers. Others clarify: this replacement period is relevant for an 8v (eight-valve) engine. If a 16v (sixteen-valve) engine is installed, then replacement must be done after 30–45 thousand kilometers.

In the video, a practitioner shows what timing belts look like after a long run and whether advertising should be trusted. Filmed by ExpertR channel.

Selecting a new belt

It is necessary to choose the correct size belt. The length of the product should be 742 mm. An important question for car enthusiasts is which manufacturer is better to choose. Today, high-quality products are produced by both foreign and domestic suppliers:

How to change it yourself?

Before changing the timing belt yourself, you need to study the diagram of the gas distribution mechanism, stock up on the necessary tools, and also imagine the order of work in the form of a sequence of actions.

Before replacing, study the timing diagram. There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ cars of other modifications, for example, 2110. It is necessary to have a good manual that explains the progress of work step by step. And if you have at least a little experience in car maintenance and minor repairs, we can calmly carry out timing belt maintenance ourselves and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

socket heads for 10, 15 and 17;
spanner or open-end wrench 17;
large flat screwdriver;
key for the tensioner pulley (if power steering is installed on the car).

The materials required are a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

The work begins by removing the negative terminal of the battery.
Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the six bolts and remove the gas distribution mechanism cover.
The crankshaft sensor chip is disconnected.
The crankshaft sensor mount is unscrewed. Then you need to remove the sensor.
The sensor hole must be aligned with the part of the pulley where there are no teeth. This is done so that the crankshaft sensor can detect TDC (top dead center). In addition, the area without teeth is used to block the pulley. After alignment, you need to put a 12mm hexagon in the hole of the sensor and fix the pulley.
When the pulley is blocked, the generator nut is unscrewed.
The belt tension roller bolt is loosened. After this, the belt is removed. Often during this operation the tension and support rollers and the pump are also changed.
Installing a new timing belt. There are two ways to correctly install this part. First: put on the belt with the tension roller removed. The tension is adjusted after installing the roller. Second: install the belt by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley using a 17mm wrench.
Next, you need to tighten the timing belt using the adjusting bolt. It rotates using a 10 key. Rotation clockwise increases the tension, counter-clockwise weakens it.

Replacing a belt on a car with power steering

If your car has power steering. then the procedure for replacing the timing belt has some differences. Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the power steering reservoir, since it blocks access to the timing belt.

The first part of replacing the timing belt

Before carrying out any work on the vehicle, for the safety of the work, you must always remove the negative terminal of the battery.

It is convenient to carry out the work of replacing the timing belt using an inspection hole or overpass, where it is easier to drain the coolant from the engine cylinder block. It is necessary to drain the fluid if you intend to change the engine pump. To perform the operation, it is necessary to place wheel chocks under the rear wheels, jack up the car, and remove the front right wheel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley.

After the car is jacked up, it is necessary to place an additional safety stand under the body. You can use an empty 20-liter gasoline canister by placing it on its edge.

Next, you need to remove the decorative plastic engine cover, which is secured with 4 bolts (X10 key). After removing the cover, it is necessary to remove the timing gear protection casing, which is secured with 5 bolts (X10 key). Here it is convenient to use a ratchet wrench with a short head (10).

After removing the protective cover, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection of the timing belt for cracks, delamination, abrasions, etc. Despite the mileage of the car, if there is a suspicion about the quality of the timing belt, then it must be replaced.

A break in the rubber drive can lead to major engine repairs.

The second part of replacing the timing belt

After removing the front right wheel, access becomes available to work on replacing the timing belt. To gain access to the crankshaft pulley, you must remove the decorative plastic trim covering the pulley.

Next, before carrying out the operation to replace the timing belt, it is necessary to set the piston of the first cylinder to top dead center (TDC). The piston of the first cylinder is adjusted by rotating the crankshaft pulley until the marks align. It is necessary to use the X17 head and a crank to rotate the crankshaft.

In this case, it is forbidden to turn the engine by the bolts of the camshaft pulleys, so as not to break the threads of the bolts securing them and not to cause damage to the engine.

Slowly turning the engine crankshaft, it is necessary to align the marks on the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the protective (rear) timing belt cover. After aligning the valve timing marks, it is necessary to maintain the alignment of the marks on the camshafts and the crankshaft pulley.

The crankshaft pulley can be marked with paint or a marker relative to a mark on the cylinder block, or one of the pulley teeth that is exactly vertical. To check that the piston of the first cylinder is at (top dead center), you need to unscrew the spark plug of this cylinder and use the tip of a screwdriver to make sure that the piston is actually in the upper part of the cylinder.

How to replace a pump along with a timing belt

If you plan to change the pump, then you need to remove the engine protection; this work must be done from the inspection hole.

Then you need to remove the generator drive belt, for which you need to loosen the lower bolt of its fastening and the upper bolt of fastening to the adjusting bar. We remember the position of the belt or draw a sketch on a piece of paper, then the generator is moved to the loose side and the belt is removed.

Next, you need to drain some of the coolant from the cylinder block. To do this, you need to remove the plug in the drain block. It is advisable to let the engine cool down a little, as you can get burned from the hot liquid. Before handing over the drain plug, it is advisable to treat it with an anti-rust compound, such as WD40 or a similar liquid. To drain, you must prepare in advance some kind of capacious container and a hose, which must be attached to the vacated drain hole in the block, and the other end of the hose must be lowered into the prepared container.

Some craftsmen insert a funnel or a plastic bottle with a cutout into the end of the hose. For whom it is more convenient to work. After the coolant drain plug is released (there is a vacuum in the system and the liquid does not come out of the block), you need to attach a drain hose and then open the cap of the expansion tank, a vacuum will appear and the liquid will begin to come out of the block. If the liquid begins to come out immediately under pressure from the block, before removing the cap from the expansion tank, then the cap valves do not hold and it needs to be replaced.

How to set timing marks on a 124 engine

Should the tension be checked on a hot or cold engine?

In conclusion, let’s talk about two more secrets. The first one - as a reminder: on a 16-valve engine, the correct belt tension is obtained only when adjusted while hot. Second: depending on the position of the crankshaft and camshafts, the belt tension changes cyclically from minimum to maximum

Second: depending on the position of the crankshaft and camshafts, the belt tension changes cyclically from minimum to maximum

A little different. Or rather, almost like that, but I don’t know how to explain. In general, under the action of valve springs, camshafts in certain positions tend to rotate in different directions, tensioning or relaxing the belt. But there are situations in which the springs of one cylinder themselves balance the springs of the other - and the RV pulley itself will not rotate anywhere. And this position is close to the TDC position

Or rather, it is 2 teeth away from it (in fact, it depends on the shafts used). 2 teeth is a small thing. One spring has not yet straightened out, and the other has just begun to compress. The force there is minimal, the RV pulley can be turned +/- 5 teeth easily by hand

Nuances in installing a timing chain according to factory marks on a VAZ 2106: pitfalls

It is difficult to achieve perfect alignment of two pairs of marks. The main reason is the use of components with dimensions within the maximum limit. By the way, adjusting the VAZ 2106 carburetor with your own hands also never follows the ideal scenario - additional recommendations from experienced craftsmen are almost always used.

Allowable elevation shifts

One of the unwritten norms allows for a discrepancy between the sprocket drilling and the camshaft bearing housing boss within a half-tooth in one direction or another. To be more specific, the installation of the timing chain of the VAZ 2106 engine according to the marks is considered complete when the camshaft sprocket is aligned exactly, and the mark of the crankshaft pulley goes slightly forward. This guarantees stable traction throughout the entire speed range.

If the camshaft star is aligned with the mark, and the knee pulley does not reach the TDC mark, the engine operates stably only up to a speed of 100 km/h. After crossing the border, there is a loss of traction and increased fuel consumption.

Extremes

A discrepancy of one tooth between the timing marks and the camshaft sprocket is unacceptable. This is usually evidence of critical chain stretch. When it is new, it is worth inspecting the seat under the key on the crankshaft - perhaps it is broken, hence the excessive play.

Engines with significant mileage are often prone to arbitrary changes in the location of the RV star mark during the rotation of the HF. This leads to:

Slicked teeth in engagement of the gear shaft of the oil pump drive with the drive shaft (“fungus” with “pig”).
Play in the distributor.
Ellipse of timing sprockets.

For your information. Using a split star helps achieve perfect mark placement. It is installed to replace the standard camshaft gear.

Causes of belt breakage

One of the common problems with the model is the failure of the timing belt. The reasons for this may be different:

Simple wear and tear caused by a long period of use of the vehicle;
Regular increased loads under which the engine has to work intensively;
Mechanical damage as a result of improper operation or received during the repair of other components;
Manufacturing defect.

Regardless of the causes of the problem, it must be eliminated.

Over time, it stretches so much that the gear teeth jump by 1-2 links. This disrupts the valve timing and causes interruptions in engine operation. But this is the best-case scenario for such a situation. The worst is when the strap breaks and the valves bend.

What is timing belt?

Timing mechanism diagram

The gas distribution mechanism is a mechanism in which the valve timing of the power unit is controlled. For normal engine performance, there are special marks by which the timing belt must be set.

Some are on the block, while others are on the pulleys. When the cylinder is in the first upper position, all these marks must coincide.

The timing marks are misaligned if the drive toothed belt is broken or if it is replaced incorrectly. So, in these cases, the engine will not work correctly and the marks will need to be re-set. Doing this is quite problematic and not everyone can do it.

Belt tension on 8-valve VAZ engines

Before tightening the timing belt on the VAZ, the following preparatory work should be performed:

Hang up and remove the right front wheel;
Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the front timing cover;
Remove the cover;
Use a 17 key to loosen the tension roller.

After this, you should check the drive marks. One of them, located on the crankshaft pulley, must coincide with the installation tab of the rear cover. At the same time, check the mark on the flywheel. It should be flush with the alignment mark on the block boss.

If the marks match, the question of how to tighten the timing belt can be considered resolved. Without removing the belt, it is necessary to move the weakened tension roller to the right so that the necessary tension occurs. After this, the roller is tightened tightly. To adjust the roller, a special “horned” key is used. If it is not available, you can use two Phillips screwdrivers, which are inserted into special holes on the roller.

If the marks do not match, the timing belt on the VAZ-2109 must be removed from the pulleys. After this, the pulleys themselves are individually set according to the marks. It is better to start reinstalling the belt from the rear branch. After installing it, the roller is tightened.

It is necessary to finish tensioning and fixing the belt, and then manually turn the engine 2-3 turns by the crankshaft pulley. To do this, it is convenient to use a “19” head with an extension. The gearbox must be in neutral. If after turning the marks have not moved relative to each other, the procedure can be considered completed. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. » alt=»»> The question of how to check the consistency of the tension should be answered. To do this, hold the strap between your thumb and index finger and turn it 90°. The technician must be able to do this, otherwise the belt is considered over-tensioned.

Replacement

keys for 10, 13, 17;
key for rotating the roller;
flat screwdriver;
wheel wrench;
jack;
a little engine oil to lubricate the tension roller.

1. Place the car on level ground and put it in gear.

2.Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the timing case.

3. Loosen the generator belt tensioner using a 13mm wrench. Remove the belt.

4. We check the marks on the camshaft gear and the protrusion on the rear cover of the belt housing.

5.If they do not match, you need to turn the crankshaft until they match. This can be done by rotating the front wheel, jacking it up first, or turning the crankshaft with a 17mm wrench using the crankshaft pulley bolt (the gear must be engaged).

Description of the procedure for replacing the timing belt VAZ 2110, (2112) 16 valves

Former flagship of the Russian automobile industry VAZ 2110 with a 1.5 16 valve engine. Scheduled replacement of the timing belt 30,000 km after the last replacement. The autopsy showed that if they had not changed it today, then tomorrow there would have been more work for our mechanic. In general, we recommend that all customers check the condition of the belt at least once every 5,000, or once a year. But knowing the quality of our spare parts, more often is better. On this engine, if the belt breaks, almost all the valves bend. The article is also relevant for VAZ 2112))

We look, remember and don’t let it get to that point.

The patient became five millimeters narrower and generally looked very bad. We send him to the honor board.

And here is the hero of the occasion himself.

We remove the absorber and power steering reservoir so that they do not interfere in the future.

We loosen the bolt by seventeen, the tension roller of the service belt and remove the last one. It will not be possible to remove it completely because the engine mount is in the way. If the belt requires replacement, you will have to unscrew the engine mount.

Remove the tension roller. We unscrew the bolts securing the upper protective cover; they are hexagonal.

Remove the right wheel, plastic mudguard and drain the antifreeze.

We see the crankshaft pulley. Using its bolt, clockwise, rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the timing belt protective cover match.

Markings on the left exhaust camshaft. The mark on the protective cover is highlighted in red.

Likewise for the intake camshaft. He's on the right. Its pulley has an inner ring for the phase sensor, so it is very difficult to mix up the pulleys.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Let's lock the crankshaft with the help of a friend. We put him in the car and force him to turn on fifth gear and press the brake all the way. And at this time, with a slight movement of your hand, unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. Remove it and the lower protective cover.

We see that the mark on the sprockets and the slot on the ebb of the crankshaft cover coincide.

Loosen the seventeen bolts of the tension and idler pulleys and remove the timing belt. Then the videos themselves. We change them anyway.

We lock and unscrew the camshaft pulleys and remove them. Remember that the right camshaft has a pulley with an inner ring for the phase sensor. The picture should look like this.

We unscrew everything that holds the protective plastic cover and remove the latter. Unscrew the three bolts holding the pump. They are hexagonal.

The pump for a sixteen valve engine is slightly different from the usual for an eight valve engine. It has a small threaded ear for attaching the protective casing.

Lubricate the gasket with a thin layer of sealant and put the pump in place. Tighten the fastening bolts. We put the protective cover in place. We make sure that he sits in his place, otherwise he will rub the belt. If everything is in order, tighten everything that holds it and install the camshaft pulleys and new rollers.

We check that the marks on the camshafts and crankshaft match. We install a new timing belt. If there are no directional arrows, put it so that the inscription is read from left to right.

The right, or descending, branch of the belt should be tight. You can turn the right camshaft clockwise a few degrees, put on the belt and turn it back. In this way we will stretch the descending branch. The tension roller has two holes for a special key. You can find it in any auto store. The issue price is 60 rubles. To tension the timing belt, insert a special key and turn the roller counterclockwise. Since there is a lot of controversy about tensioning the timing belt, we will write this: a tensioned belt should not have a sag between the camshafts of more than 5 mm when pressed and 7 mm on the longest branch (specially experimented). Remember: an overtightened belt reduces the service life of the pump, and an undertightened belt can lead to cylinder head repair. (photo below)

We check all the marks. We turn the crankshaft two turns and check the marks again. If the pistons and valves do not meet and the marks coincide, then accept my congratulations. Then we put everything back in place in the reverse order of removal. Don't forget to tighten the bolts. We tighten the service belt roller with the same wrench as the timing belt tension roller. Fill with antifreeze and start the car. We wish the belt many years of service, but don’t forget to check it periodically; after all, it was made in Russia.

The mark on the timing flywheel of the VAZ 2110 does not match

The intake shaft goes away, this is normal. When you put on the belt, use a 17 key to turn the shaft against the direction and it fits onto the exhaust. This can turn off the ignition on carb ones.
those. I won’t change anything, so can I drive?

Well, opinions differ. The fact is that I changed everything together, the rollers are really 10 thousand earlier. And I tried different belts. Or maybe this discrepancy can be caused by the fact that I removed the camshaft gears to change the pump? As I understand it, they have a gap, as if they are moving slightly, and when tightening the bolts securing them, they go in the direction of tightening and in total do these half a tooth run in? correct me if I'm talking nonsense :)

I'm not talking about the rollers, but about the crankshaft toothed pulley.

ah-ah, I understand. didn't get it in at first. Okay, I agree with you, but recently when I changed it before this, this was not observed, everything was clearly marked. I decided to change it again, due to the fact that the belt was eating like a child, and there were two belts. Then the pump failed and I replaced it, so I started replacing it again. And now I don’t know what’s wrong. Could the belt or pump be like that?

OP, the marks on the camshaft pulleys should be approximately in line with the notch on the cover and the center of the pulley, and not under the notch. align your knee with the mark on the flywheel and see how your camshafts will fit, or better yet, take a photo and post it here

Ok, then I’ll post better pictures.

Over 100 tkm of mileage, the knee pulley wears out by 2 millimeters in diameter

It's not true

. Here is a pulley (as well as a bolt and a belt, but this is not relevant to the point), which has passed “well over 200” and has been sawed through by a couple of mm by the bolt that has fallen out. In terms of size (in the area where the belt touches) it is absolutely identical to the new one. https://s005.radikal.ru/i209/1007/13/0752377c8624.jpg

However, this does not mean that the author of the topic should not pay attention to the crankshaft pulley.

As for the mismatch of marks, I have 2 versions: 1) “Curved” belt. 2) Incorrect installation of the belt (if you do not fix the RV gears, you can easily make a mistake, because it is very inconvenient).

PS It is better to align the crankshaft according to the mark on the flywheel through the hatch in the box (where you shine a strobe light on carb cars), it turns out more accurately there.

Ok, then I’ll post better pictures.

But before taking pictures, do it as expected, two revolutions with the crankshaft, turning it at 5th speed by the jacked wheel.

ps -Viewer-

, the photo size should not be more than 640x480, otherwise a link to the photo is made. Correct it, otherwise the moderators will slap you with mustard plaster.

It's not true

Hi all. I wanted to ask those in the know: I changed the belt with rollers and pump, but when combining the marks, I discovered that when the marks on the camshafts are opposite the cover, the mark on the crankshaft pulley moves forward by half a tooth, 1-2 mm. Maybe there is some kind of error on our cars :)? Because as soon as I didn’t go to change it, the same crap still remained. Can this affect the ignition, later or earlier, and can the car warm up faster because of this? Since I read in some article that the engine temperature is affected by what ignition is installed, I just don’t remember which engine we were talking about, carb. or engineer

The size of the photo should not be more than 640x480, otherwise a link to the photo is made.

Thank you, I corrected it. Thanks for the link to “20th tooth” too. I love precision

the outer surface worn to a concavity and sharp edges of the teeth.

In general, I took a photo, I don’t know if it will be clear, it’s awkward there with a camera :) I didn’t take a photo of the crankshaft pulley, it’s combined with a risk, but I posted a photo of one of the camshafts, the second is identical.

What can cause a timing belt to break?

In a VAZ-2112 car with 16 valves, rupture of a belt part can occur due to:

Strong or, on the contrary, weak tension. To make sure it is tensioned correctly, it is recommended to use a special device called a frequency meter. Measurements should only be taken from a cold engine, the indicator should not exceed 155 Hz +/- 3 Hz.
A rupture will be inevitable if the part has been in use for a long time and the replacement was not made in a timely manner. Since there is a constant temperature difference during the working position, the belt element gradually collapses, cracks appear on it, which leads to rupture.
Due to improper placement of the bearing, which can jam and tear the timing belt.
Due to leakage of the oil seal, which coats the part with oil.
Due to a low-quality timing belt, which was installed in the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine by the manufacturer.

These are the most basic reasons that lead to the rupture of the HMS belt. If you carefully monitor the technical condition of the machine and repair it yourself at the slightest sign of breakdown, you can avoid very unpleasant situations that can happen at any time.

Performing powertrain maintenance

VAZ 2107 cars with injection engines are still produced at enterprises in our country. They are highly reliable and economical at an affordable price, which is what determines their high popularity among consumers.

The main reason for replacing a double row timing chain is excessive stretching. The critical elongation is detected remotely by noise - the chain rattles and rubs against adjacent parts. In fact, extreme wear leads to loss of power, throttle response and unstable engine operation due to the mutual displacement of the camshaft and crankshaft. This will be visually indicated by a displaced auxiliary drive pulley.

How to change it yourself?

Before replacing, study the timing diagram

There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ cars of other modifications, for example, 2110. It is necessary to have a good manual that explains the progress of work step by step. And if you have at least a little experience in car maintenance and minor repairs, we can calmly carry out timing belt maintenance ourselves and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

socket heads for 10, 15 and 17;
spanner or open-end wrench 17;
large flat screwdriver;
key for the tensioner pulley (if power steering is installed on the car).

The materials required are a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

The work begins by removing the negative terminal of the battery.
Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the six bolts and remove the gas distribution mechanism cover.
The crankshaft sensor chip is disconnected.
The crankshaft sensor mount is unscrewed. Then you need to remove the sensor.
The sensor hole must be aligned with the part of the pulley where there are no teeth. This is done so that the crankshaft sensor can detect TDC (top dead center). In addition, the area without teeth is used to block the pulley. After alignment, you need to put a 12mm hexagon in the hole of the sensor and fix the pulley.
When the pulley is blocked, the generator nut is unscrewed.
The belt tension roller bolt is loosened. After this, the belt is removed. Often during this operation the tension and support rollers and the pump are also changed.
Installing a new timing belt. There are two ways to correctly install this part. First: put on the belt with the tension roller removed. The tension is adjusted after installing the roller. Second: install the belt by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley using a 17mm wrench.
Next, you need to tighten the timing belt using the adjusting bolt. It rotates using a 10 key. Rotation clockwise increases the tension, counter-clockwise weakens it.

Replacing a belt on a car with power steering

In addition, cars with power steering do not have an adjusting bolt. The belt is tensioned using a tension roller and a special key. If such a key is not available, you can use a homemade device consisting of two nails and a screwdriver. During operation, it is necessary to check the degree of belt tension and, if necessary, tighten it. Finally, you need to tighten the tension roller nut.

Features of labeling

Before tensioning the belt and tightening the bolts, you need to check the position of the marks. If the marks are set incorrectly, this will, at best, manifest itself in a decrease in engine power and traction characteristics. In the worst case, in those engines where valve bending is possible, it can occur even with a fully functional timing belt.

In order to avoid these problems, it is necessary to follow the order of placing labels:

After installing the timing belt, but before tensioning it, the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump housing are aligned.
Marks are placed on the intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.
The belt is tensioned, the tension roller nut is tightened.
The crankshaft rotates two revolutions. If after this check the position of the marks remains the same, you can replace the crankshaft sensor, connect the power connector and replace the timing cover. Replacement of the VAZ 2112 timing belt is completed.

The stages of replacing the timing belt can be seen in the photo below.

Blocking the crankshaft pulley

Placing marks on the crankshaft

Marking valve pulleys

TDC marks VAZ 2110 2114 8 valves

The TDC marks are located on the camshaft timing belt pulley (lug) and on the rear camshaft drive belt cover (tendril).

In addition, the marks are located on the flywheel (risk) and on the scale of the rear shield of the clutch housing (triangular cutout). For clarity, the gearbox has been removed.

Additionally, marks are located on the crankshaft timing pulley (dot) and the oil pump cover (triangular cutout). These marks are visible only when the generator drive pulley is removed.

You will need: a socket wrench “17”, a socket wrench “10”. 1. Disconnect the wire from the “–” terminal of the battery.

2. Set the gear shift lever to neutral and place chocks under the car wheels.

3. Remove the right front wheel and the right mudguard of the engine compartment.

4. Open the hood and remove the three screws securing the front camshaft drive belt cover. Please note: the screws on the side fastening of the cover also secure the wire holders. Remove the front cover.

5. Rotate the crankshaft by the bolt securing the generator drive pulley to it until the marks on the camshaft pulley and the rear cover coincide.

6. Remove the plug from the hole in the clutch housing and check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel.

Replacing the timing belt on VAZ 2112 cars 16 valves from A to Z

In what cases is replacement required?

To understand that the timing belt needs to be replaced, you need to visually inspect the element.

It is necessary to stop using it if the following damage is detected:

cracks, cuts have appeared on top of the timing belt, or its base is delaminating;
if the notches located on the inside of the belt are damaged.

The most common reasons why a belt breaks:

the car enthusiast simply does not know how to tighten it properly;
improper operation or use of the belt for longer than the specified period;
contact with the belt surface of coolant, fuel, lubricant;
incorrect operation of the water pump;
play in the belt rollers: tension and support.

If you do not ensure the correct adjustment of the belt, do not inspect and replace the rollers on the VAZ 2112, this can lead to other breakdowns. We will find out which timing belt rollers for the VAZ 2110-2112 16v are better from the author of the video, MegaMeyhem.

If the timing belt breaks, it will disrupt the operation of the entire engine. Then everything descends into chaos: valves and pistons touch each other because their movements are not controlled. As a result of the impact, the valves bend and, touching the pistons, damage their outer walls, scratch the cylinders and important parts of the gas distribution mechanism.

In addition to visual diagnostics of delamination, cracks and other things, it is recommended for a VAZ 2112 car (including the injector) every 50 thousand km. movement to change the belt. Which timing belt for a VAZ is better to choose is described below.

Selection options

In the automotive market you can find several companies that produce high-quality belts. Its length should be 742 mm.

When choosing a belt for 16-valve engines, you can pay attention to:

Factory belt from the Volzhsky Automobile Plant: Lada 21126-1006040. This is a durable belt made from quality material. It is not so expensive that you can spare money.
Lynx 137FL22 – timing belt from a Japanese manufacturer. On its inner side there are 137 serrated cuts. Since it is relatively inexpensive, it will have to be replaced more often than others. This does not mean that the quality of the material is bad. Japanese products have proven themselves well among car enthusiasts.
Belts from Bosch. This company has established itself in the market as the embodiment of quality and sustainability. The belts from the manufacturer turned out to be excellent and, as a result, they are deservedly popular among car enthusiasts. The recommended service life of the straps is fully met.
German ContiTech belt. Manufacturers tried to make the product durable by including polyamide fabric, fiberglass and synthetic rubber.
Optibelt. Belts from this company are also installed on 12-valve engines. They enjoy a good reputation among car enthusiasts due to their large resource. This is because cases of belt “death” are almost never recorded, and it serves its life due to the quality of the materials used.
Gates 5631XS heads the line of the most popular belts, the quality of which is at its best. This is a well-deserved sales leader. Gates belts are made of high-quality material, and therefore the risk of timing belt breakage on a VAZ with a 16-valve engine is reduced to zero.
BRT belts of domestic production. Experts believe that BRT is the Russian analogue of Gates. What is noteworthy is that the quality of a domestic belt is not inferior to a foreign product, but its price is an order of magnitude lower.

After how long to change the timing belt, we find out from the video from the AVTOTEMA TV channel.

Features of labeling

Before installing another timing belt, it is better to set the crankshaft and camshaft to the specified marks from the very beginning. We set the gears to 0 position. Points A, B, C, D, E, F must match as shown in the picture. After this, you need to set the marks on the camshafts and the belt casing in the same position.

What's the result?

As you can see, the timing belt is an important part of the car, on which the entire operation of the internal combustion engine depends. Like all elements, the timing belt has its own resource, which, as a rule, is limited to 60 thousand kilometers of the vehicle.

If signs of wear are noticeable ahead of schedule, the belt still needs to be replaced. At the same time, the rollers must also be replaced, since jamming can cause a break.

Comparison of chain and belt type gas distribution mechanism drives. Advantages and disadvantages of timing chain, pros and cons of timing belt. Recommendations.

Features and nuances of correct selection of timing belt. When a belt needs to be replaced, the best belt manufacturers know how to avoid buying a fake. Recommendations.

The purpose of the timing belt in the timing belt drive device. Features of operation, how often the drive belt needs to be changed.

When to change the timing belt. Replacing the timing belt, marking it and how to do it correctly. Tips and tricks.

Checking the Priora 16 valve timing belt and replacing the Priora timing belt. How to tighten the timing belt on a Priora, belt selection and replacement. Tips and tricks.

Purpose of timing drive. Advantages and disadvantages of a belt or chain in the design of the engine timing gear drive.

Belt faults

Malfunctions of the timing belt can arise as a result of its long-term operation, and can also be the result of incorrect adjustment or malfunctions of the pump or tension roller. These include:

violation of the integrity of the belt (cracks, delamination);
deformation;
belt break.

If any of the specified malfunctions are detected, the belt must be replaced.

Causes of belt breakage

One of the common problems with the model is the failure of the timing belt. The reasons for this may be different:

Simple wear and tear caused by a long period of use of the vehicle;
Regular increased loads under which the engine has to work intensively;
Mechanical damage as a result of improper operation or received during the repair of other components;
Manufacturing defect.

List of damage to the timing belt on the VAZ 2110

Replacing the timing belt of a VAZ 2110 8-valve injector with your own hands is carried out:

As a result of increased tension, the surface begins to become shaggy. Gaps appear.
If the product was loosely tensioned, this leads to cutting off the tooth. In such a situation, replacing the VAZ 2110 8-valve timing belt on a VAZ 2110 is required immediately.
The teeth are largely worn. This is also a consequence of poor tension adjustment.
The surface of the product is covered with small cracks. This happens due to prolonged overheating or hypothermia.
Sometimes the wear area is between the teeth. This is also the result of poor belt tension.
If oil constantly leaks from the engine and gets on the belt, then the product is removed. Then you need to find and fix the leak. The timing belt is replaced with a new one.
On a VAZ 2110 with 8 valves, the timing belt is changed if there was a misalignment during its installation. Its end wear is observed.

When driving the car, you must constantly listen to noises. When it is clearly audible in the engine area, it means you need to stop and tighten the belt.

In some cases, the tooth skips. This problem is indicated by a signal from the sensor. It is necessary to stop and carry out another drive adjustment.

Timing belt life

From time to time you need to inspect the belt and replace it if:

the belt structure began to delaminate;
cracks appeared on the surface;
the teeth that are on the inner surface of the consumable are damaged.

But what could be the reasons that the consumable has reached a state where it is no longer possible to do without replacing it:

the consumable was not properly tensioned initially;
the belt has been used longer than expected;
a lubricant has reached the surface;
the water pump did not work well;
the tension roller had play.

If you do not periodically inspect the belt and do not change it on time, this can ultimately lead to a break. And a break is very serious, since in this case the pistons will collide with the valves. As a result, they will be damaged and the engine part will have to be seriously repaired. A broken belt drive will cause real chaos, as a result of which other timing parts will also suffer serious damage.

The manufacturer promises that you should be interested in the condition of the belt only after 50,000 km. This is not entirely true, because premature wear of consumables can be influenced by a number of factors, such as aggressive driving or weather conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the belt drive after 20-25,000 km.

Signs by which you can determine the need to replace the VAZ 2110 timing belt

To replace the timing belt on time, you need to monitor the condition of the engine. The timing belt needs to be replaced if:

there are oil leaks on it;
there are many cracks and signs of increased wear on its surface;
timing belt teeth are damaged;
the belt has delaminated, cuts, bulges or folds have appeared;
threads appeared on the surface.

How often to change the timing belt and pulley?

There is no clear answer here. The fact is that all car mechanisms constantly wear out and are subjected to excessive loads. Therefore, you can pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturer only if the car is new - up to 5-7 years. In this case, replacement is carried out every 55-60 thousand km. If the car is old, then reduce it by 15 thousand km. this figure is bold. The fact is that only engines with a volume of 1.5 liters will survive the break calmly and without consequences. But on eights, for example, they installed 1.3 engines, in which the valves bend.

Very often the timing belt on the VAZ 2114 and similar models wears out. This happens due to severe wear of the liquid pump. Its resource is no more than 90 thousand km. And then only if it is of high quality. What if you come across a defect or an obvious fake? Then it can break down even after half an hour of driving.

When the pump wears out, the roller eats rubber from the outside. And the more wear on the pump, the more visible the damage to the belt. So, the conclusion is this: change the timing kit (roller and belt) every 40-45 thousand km, install a new pump every second.

Video

The video shows the process of replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2112. Filmed by the ExpertR channel.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2112 1.6 16 cl.

1. Remove the timing belt protection. The timing belt guard is secured with six bolts. Remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor, unscrew one bolt and remove the sensor.

2. One tooth is missing on the pulley, this is not without reason, this allows the crankshaft sensor to determine the top dead center, and also allows you to block the crankshaft in order to unscrew and tighten the pulley mounting bolt.

3. This is done like this: the pulley is aligned with the hole for the crankshaft sensor and through the hole for the sensor, a suitable size tube or other suitable object is inserted, in my case it is a hexagon, the pulley is blocked, and then unscrewed and removed.

4. Loosen the tension roller nut and remove the old timing belt.

5. Install a new belt, the belt can be installed by turning the right camshaft with a wrench, or you can remove the tension roller, whichever is more convenient for you.

6. Tighten the pulley mounting bolt back and align the timing belt drive gear according to the marks. If there are no marks on the oil pump housing, put marks on the flywheel and, using a chisel, make a mark on the oil pump, this will be more convenient.

7. Align the marks of the camshaft pulleys so that the timing belt drive gear does not go astray

8. Using a special wrench, tighten the belt with a tension roller. If there is no key, don’t be upset, you can tighten it with two nails and a screwdriver between them, or you can take a steel fork, remove the two middle teeth completely, and shorten the two outer ones in half and bend them. Be sure to remember to tighten the tension pulley nut. (To tighten the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise (about 10–15°); to loosen it, turn it clockwise)