DIY instructions for mounting a generator on a VAZ 2112

A few years after purchasing the car, a breakdown may occur. Most often, car owners encounter problems with the generator. In order to get rid of the problem you need:

• remove the device;
• disassemble, detect an error, fix or purchase a new generator;
• install a functioning device.

removing the belt, replacing brushes and bearings

In a VAZ 2112 car, the generator is designed to power electrical equipment when the engine is running. If this unit fails, full operation of the car will be impossible, so the driver may encounter certain difficulties while driving. You can read more about the principle of operation, as well as the replacement of some elements of this unit, below.

Technical characteristics and principle of operation of the generator set on the Dvenashka

First, let's look at the operating principle of the 2112 generator. One of the main design elements is the rotor, which performs the function of generating a magnetic field. This component is a shaft on which the field winding is mounted. The halves of this winding are installed in special pole parts, and the winding is supplied with current thanks to slip rings. The rotor rotates thanks to a belt drive from the drive.

Another equally important component is the stator, consisting of a core and a winding. This mechanism produces alternating current that passes through the electrical network through slip rings. To supply current to the rings, the design of the unit is supplemented with special brushes. After them, according to the scheme, a rectifier unit is installed, which is used to convert the voltage that the device produces. Depending on the device model and its technical features, different winding connection diagrams can be used.

The generator unit relay is used to maintain the voltage within specified limits. This element, if necessary, changes the frequency and duration of electrical pulses. By design, a relay consists of several controllers, as well as executive components. The purpose of these components is to determine the time during which the field winding must be connected to the network. If the relay fails, an unstable voltage will be supplied to the battery.

As for the technical characteristics of the generator on the VAZ 3701010-07, the voltage limits generated in the winding are 13.2-14.7 volts. The unit itself allows you to generate current up to 80 amperes. It is important that the VAZ generator belt is tensioned properly, otherwise the operation of the device as a whole may be incorrect. If you want to check the belt tension with your own hands, then keep in mind that when there is pressure on it with a mass of about 10 kilograms, the deflection of the belt should be at least 8 mm (the author of the video is the channel In Sandro’s Garage).

Service Features

The need to repair the generator unit on a VAZ 2112 16 valves does not arise often, but in order for the unit not to have to be repaired, it must be properly maintained. In general, this unit has a fairly high margin of reliability.

What maintenance features must be observed to prevent repairs:

1. It must be remembered that the outer surfaces of the unit must always be clean.
2. When carrying out maintenance, you also need to check the quality of fastening of the unit - it must be securely fixed at the installation site.
3. It would be a good idea to check the functionality of the voltage regulator; a multimeter is used for this.
4. The same applies to belt diagnostics. As stated above, first of all you need to check its tension - the belt should not be too tight, but it should also not be loosened. In addition, diagnostics of the condition of the strap should be carried out every 10 thousand km - there should be no signs of damage, cracks, and the belt should not peel off.

Photo gallery “Main device malfunctions”

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

Brush replacement procedure

Replacement of VAZ generator brushes is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, you need to release the three latches on the device’s body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
2. The cover itself can be detached and put aside. This will allow you to access the regulator.
3. There are two bolts on the regulator that secure the device - they need to be unscrewed. Then pull the regulator and remove it.
4. Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm. If their size is smaller, then you have two options - either repair it by replacing the brushes, or change the device assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron since the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. First, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and securely soldering it to the relay contacts. Or you simply change the relay, and further assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel)))LENTA).

How to change bearings yourself?

To replace the bearings, follow these steps:

1. On the dismantled generator, you need to block the rotor; to do this, use a screwdriver, then unscrew the pulley.
2. Next, by pulling the latches, you need to remove the device casing. You need to make marks on the two halves of the case, and then, using a screwdriver, you will need to remove the front cover.
3. Then you will need to knock the bearing out of its seat; to do this, you will need to place it on a more suitable object. Alternatively, you can use a 27mm socket.
4. After this, you can take a new bearing device and fill it with grease. This element should be hammered through the old one. To make the device more securely fixed at the installation site, you can use a chisel to flare the edges.
5. Now let's move on to the rear bearing. To do this, you need to place either a thick screwdriver or a thin chisel under it, and hit the top several times with a hammer, while simultaneously moving the screwdriver in the opposite direction. The device can be dismantled using an open-end wrench.

Video “How to change the alternator belt?”

Visual instructions for replacement are given in the video below (author - channel In Sandro's Garage).

Should I install a more powerful current generation unit?

We have already described above why the unit wears out quickly. An excellent solution is to install a new generator. Another common reason is the installation of off-site equipment that consumes a lot of electricity. The current strength of a standard unit is not always enough, so you should think about installing a more powerful generator.

The model depends on the year of manufacture of the car and engine. For example, the first Nivas with a 1.6 power plant have a device with a remote regulator, which was used in the “classics”. In more modern machines the regulator is already built-in.

If you want to buy an aftermarket unit, it would be wise to get a 2003 model year Chevrolet. The selection must be made according to the catalog numbers and parameters that are present in this table:

If you can modify the mounts yourself, then the list of available generators can expand significantly. Craftsmen even install devices from foreign cars.

Lower bracket for generator 2112 VAZ

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Article: 21214-3701650, additional articles: 21214370165000

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The series of articles 'Crystal VAZs or typical breakdowns of domestic cars' introduces car enthusiasts to typical faults that arise when operating AvtoVAZ cars. This article is dedicated to the favorite of hunters and fishermen - “Niva”.

Hello, dear readers of the blog about the adventures of the Pale Goblin =))

On one of my last rides, my standard generator failed after drinking a fair amount of water with mud and sand. And finding myself in the forest at night and without a generator, I realized that I needed to move it upstairs like the right field guides. ))

Purpose of the generator

The electric generator in a car is one of the most important elements, since it is it that ensures uninterrupted operation of the electrical on-board network and charging the battery. All batteries installed in cars are not intended for constant power supply without recharging the main electronic components in the car (this includes: headlights, signal, wipers, music, heater motor, etc.). The generator plays a big role in this connection, converting mechanical energy into electrical energy and charging the electronic battery.

The operating principle of the electric generator is quite simple. Its main task is to generate electricity and supply it to the battery contacts. The generator can only be activated when the engine is running, but in several ways:

• through an individual belt;
• through the common belt of additional units.

An individual belt (or a belt of additional units) is fixed on one side to the generator pulley, and on the other, to the crankshaft or intermediate shaft pulley of the engine. The generator mounting may be different:

• on 2112 it is located below;
• on the “classic” - in the middle;
• on UAZ vehicles the mount is located at the top.

While the engine is running, the crankshaft (or shaft) rotates, which transmits energy through a belt to the electric generator and spins it. The resulting energy is converted into electrical energy and supplied to the battery contacts, thereby maintaining a stable battery voltage and protecting it from discharge and failure.

The battery acts as a kind of storage device that constantly accumulates and supplies electric current to the vehicle’s on-board network. When the engine is not running, the battery does not receive recharge and operates in recoil mode. Many car enthusiasts are familiar with situations when the engine barely turns and the headlights shine quite dimly. In such cases, inexperienced drivers immediately begin to blame the battery or other electronic components of the car. However, the culprit is not always so easy to find, because problems can be with the battery, or with the generator itself or the electrical wiring.

Don't worry ahead of time. If the car is parked outside for a long time and does not start, the battery will spontaneously discharge, and this is absolutely normal. Such problems especially often arise when the car is parked for a long time in winter, when negative temperatures have a negative impact on the condition of the battery.

If the car does not sit idle on the street, but constantly starts and drives, then the above problems (when the engine barely turns) can be caused by the following factors:

• serious problems with electronics (current leaks, poor connections, etc.);
• poor battery condition;
• a crack in the generator mount (often found on VAZ 2107 and 21213);
• malfunctions in the electronic part of the electric generator;
• belt stretching, incorrect installation or loose upper and/or lower fastening of the generator (on the VAZ 2110 and other front-wheel drive VAZs the problem occurs quite often).

Electric generator device

The internal structure of a self-generator is very similar to a typical electric motor, but with certain differences. Moreover, differences in detail are present both external and internal. So, in the circuit of a self-oscillator there are such elements as:

• special voltage regulator;
• rectifier assembly (diode bridge).

In conventional electric motors, the above elements are rarely present, and their presence depends on the industry and the specific application of electric motors. But in autogenerators, the presence of such electronic components is simply necessary, since without them voltage surges can occur, as well as exceeding the maximum permissible voltage. Severely over or undervoltage in the on-board network negatively affects the condition of the on-board network, up to the fire of electrical appliances in the cabin (radio, subwoofer, alarm, etc.).

The self-generator is based on a rotor on which the primary winding with parts forming the poles is located. During operation, a magnetic field appears on the winding as a result of the supply of electrical voltage from the battery. The rotor is installed in the housing on special bearings, and a pulley for the belt and an impeller with blades for cooling are also attached to the rotor.

The second main element of the autogenerator is the stator; it is a round metal part (core) with special grooves through which the secondary winding (copper thread) is passed. The design also contains graphite brushes, which are responsible for transmitting voltage to the winding.

To regulate and output the resulting voltage, a diode bridge (converts alternating current to direct current) and a voltage regulator (does not allow overvoltage or undervoltage) are used. The external component of the autogenerator is a ventilated metal case, reinforced with stiffening ribs and having special fasteners for installation in the engine compartment.

Fastening design

The design of fastening elements for electric generators on AvtoVAZ vehicles varies. Differences in fasteners are caused by the peculiarities of the structure and location of the power unit. For cars of the VAZ classic and Niva family, with a longitudinal engine, the autogenerator is typically located longitudinally, along the block, near the first cylinder. The generator is driven through a belt from the crankshaft pulley. On front-wheel drive models with a transverse engine, the electric generator is located opposite the front right side member in the direction of travel.

The compatibility of the installation grooves on classic and front-wheel drive models differs, but depending on the specific model. The installation locations of the electric generator on classics and the first front-wheel drive cars (08, 09 and 99 families) are the same. However, to install an electric generator from a tens or Chevrolet Niva to a classic, you will need to purchase pulleys, a special strip and a mounting bolt for installing the generator. In other cases, the installation and fastening of generators from 21214 and other Nivas to rear-wheel drive VAZ models does not require additional work.

To install powerful devices from Kalina or Priora, the generator mount for other VAZ models will need to be changed. It is very important to select the appropriate components. For installation on the 08, 09 and 99 family, we select all generator mounts from VAZ (2110, etc.) for an 8-valve head, and not for a 16-valve one.

The fastener itself is a metal L-shaped structure made of durable steel. The design provides special holes for its combination with the autogenerator itself. In addition, the mounting strip is equipped with a technological cutout into which a screw is inserted to align the device relative to the cylinder block.

The lower mount of the generator is presented in the form of a special metal bracket with technological holes (in the bracket itself and in the counter part of the generator). A bolt passes through these fasteners, which rigidly connects the elements together. This is necessary in order to avoid vibrations and belt slippage during engine operation.

Replacing a standard 55A generator (2108-99, carburetor) with an 80A generator (2110-70, injector)

But please note that the generator model, if possible, should be the same as the one installed by the factory. That is, first of all, look at the applicability specifically to your car, and then at the current rating in Amperes. As for the price of generators for VAZ 2110-2112, it may vary depending on the type and manufacturer. But if you take the KZATE model, which in most cases is installed by the factory, then the cost can be about 3,500 rubles. Although, Chinese options can be obtained at almost half the price. True, you should not chase low cost, since the service life of these parts can be quite short.

Source

Removing the generator

The procedure for removing an electric generator from a car is simple, but its implementation requires basic skills in working with equipment and at least superficial knowledge of the units in the engine compartment. The stages of work can be divided into several steps:

1. Disabling the electronic part.
2. Removing the upper retaining device.
3. Removing the lower mounting platform.
4. Correct removal of the belt and tensioner.

You can remove the generator mount both on the VAZ 2110 and on other VAZ models if you follow certain instructions. Fundamentally, the process of working with autogenerators on VAZ cars is almost identical, and the main difference is only in the location of the power unit. On the VAZ family 2101 - 2107, 21213, 21214, the engine in the engine compartment is located longitudinally, and on front-wheel drive models the engine is installed transversely. The mount drawing for front-wheel drive models is identical, only the electric generators themselves, their power and pulley sizes differ.

Depending on the engine layout of your car, certain difficulties may arise. So, on classic VAZs, as well as Nivas, the procedure for removing the autogenerator is easier to carry out due to the accessibility of the components. While on front-wheel drive models, access to the components is difficult due to the transverse location of the power unit. There are often cases when it is not so easy to get to the soured bolts that fix the “gene”.

To carry out work on removing the generator on the VAZ 2115, 2114 and other front-wheel drive models, you will need a set of socket heads and open-end wrenches, a flashlight, WD-40 lubricant (or other similar) and a set of new components (belt, pulley, fasteners and bolts). It is worth remembering that on front-wheel drive VAZ models, access to the units is difficult, so an inspection hole or a lift may be required. If there is no access to a pit or a lift, you can jack up the car and remove the right front wheel (in the direction of travel) and after that access to the electric generator will be simplified.

First of all, with the car turned off, you need to remove the terminals from the battery and remove it. This procedure is done in order to protect yourself and the car’s electronics from short circuits. After that, two wires are removed from the autogenerator - one is power (usually red), and the second is control (a thin wire with a white or gray connector). The power wire is located in a special thermal casing; it must be moved, only then will access to the terminal on the unit be opened.

As soon as the wires are removed, we take them away so that they do not interfere with subsequent manipulations to remove the unit. Now you need to loosen the belt tension. To do this, unscrew the tension screw and move the generator to one side. While the generator is moving, check the degree of belt tension.

When the belt tension is loosened, you can completely unscrew the tension screw and unscrew the lock nut of the upper fastening structure. Now you have access to the tension bar; you can easily remove it from the mount and put it aside.

To unscrew the lower fixation bar you will need a pit or a lift. The electric generator is installed on the lower platform using special “ears” in the structure, and they are directly fixed on the bracket itself. You need to unscrew the bottom bracket with an open-end wrench or a socket head. After unscrewing the fixing nut, remove the metal sleeve and the long bolt (pulled out from the other side). The process of removing the electric generator is completed.

Replacing timing belt VAZ 2110 16 valves

Replacing the VAZ 2110 timing belt 16 valves in VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112 cars. Requires regular performance. Of course, an injector with sixteen valves adds agility to our Lada and this is pleasantly pleasing. There is a fly in the ointment. The timing belt must not be allowed to break due to wear. This leads to damage to the cylinder head.

How to avoid valve failure

The camshafts are stationary and at the moment when the piston approaches top dead center, the valves remain open, resulting in the piston hitting the open valves, which leads to the valves bending and in some cases destroying the seats and guides. Repairs are of course expensive.

This can be avoided by installing pistons in the engine with recesses for the valves, such as in the photo. It is not advisable to replace this on purpose, since engines have a significant service life, and there is no point in disassembling a working engine. Therefore, it is easier and cheaper to simply change the timing belt in a timely manner, especially since it does not require extensive experience in locksmith work and deep knowledge in the field of car repair, but just attentiveness and knowledge of some of the nuances when installing the belt itself.

Disassembling the timing belt

Where to start replacing the belt. First, you need to remove the alternator belt drive pulley. It’s convenient to do this if you remove the right front wheel and the protective cover, if you still have one. The pulley mounting bolt must be unscrewed. Then remove the timing belt protection covers and the mechanism before your eyes. The nuts securing the tension rollers must be unscrewed so that when replacing the belt, the rollers can also be changed, and remove the rollers, then remove the belt itself

Installation of the generator with subsequent adjustment

When installing a generator on a VAZ 2109 (no matter the injector or carburetor) and other models, be sure to check whether the purchased clamps, bolts and nuts fit the installation locations. Also, we must not forget that the mounting holes on old-style electric generators are different from new ones. Therefore, when installing a modern autogenerator on front-wheel drive models of the first generations (08, 09, 99), you should purchase the appropriate fasteners.

The generator mounting mount cannot be taken from Grants or Prioras. You can take a new potassium generator and no additional modifications will be required, but the mounting plates must be type 21082. In addition, you will need to purchase a pulley 2110 and a tensioner type 21082.

The installation process is identical to the removal process. If the standard strips are worn out, they are replaced with new ones; this will require unscrewing several bolts and installing new strips.

When installing the electric generator, start from the bottom fastening plate, tighten (but not completely) the fixing bolt (do not forget to put the bushing), put the belt on the pulley and move to the top. To fix the generator, install the top fastening, but do not screw it all the way. Then the tension bar is inserted. Then tighten the tension bolt, checking the belt tension.

The belt should not bend more than 1-1.5 cm when pressed with a force of 10 kgf. It is quite difficult to maintain these indicators in garage conditions, so you should focus on the gap between the frame and the tension bolt of 15–20 mm. There should be a small gap (15–20 mm) between the tension frame and the screw (from the thread side). Then turn the engine crankshaft two turns with a wrench and monitor the position of the belt and its tension.

If, after checking the engine by turning the key, the gap changes, then the bolts securing the electric generator should be tightened. As soon as, after a control rotation of the crankshaft with a key, the gap remains the same, and the belt bends slightly when you press it, the bolts of the upper and lower fastenings are finally tightened, a control rotation of the crankshaft is performed two turns, the wires are connected to the electric generator and the engine is started.

If, when starting the engine, the belt does not make unwanted noise or whistle, and the charge level is normal, then the installation procedure was completed correctly. If a whistle appears, then most likely the belt is too tight and should be loosened.

Video about tightening and adjusting the belt:

Installation of generator from 2110 to 2109/08/99 – video: