Steering shaft SS20 for VAZ (intermediate driveshaft)

Replacing the intermediate shaft of the VAZ driveshaft

As many motorists know, the VAZ 2110 often has such a defect, especially after long-term use, as steering play. In this case, only replacing the steering cardan on a VAZ 2110 helps to establish normal operation. You have to dismantle the column and carry out repairs. Replacing the VAZ 2110 steering cardan, despite its apparent complexity, is an operation that can be carried out on your own.

Cross design

The mechanism of the steering shaft crosspiece performs a transport-guiding function and is designed to transmit the torque of the wheel to the gear of the rack and pinion assembly. The transmission of torque is carried out by the steering shaft cardan, to which the crosspiece is attached. In many models of modern cars, the crosspiece performs the same function and has a similar shape. The cross itself consists of four identical protrusions, each of which is equipped with needle-type bearings. All elements of the cross are made of high-strength steel and must withstand high loads.

Stove radiator design

A car's heater consists of a housing with dampers and a metal radiator with pipes. Two types are installed: copper and aluminum. Each has its own advantages:

• Copper heaters have lower thermal conductivity, they heat up more slowly and also give off heat. Their reliability and maintainability are higher; the radiator can always be soldered.
• Aluminum is valued for its fast heating and good heat dissipation, low price and light weight. But if there is a leak, it is impossible to repair it.

Freshly unpacked heater radiator for Lada Kalina

Important! In a good stove radiator, plastic swirlers or turbulators are installed; they increase efficiency by 20-25%.

Frequent unit malfunctions:

• heating deteriorates due to clogged tubes and honeycombs;
• antifreeze leak;
• damp fog in the cabin due to leaky joints;
• cracks in the supply pipes.

These malfunctions are accompanied by a drop in the coolant level in the car's expansion tank and an increase in engine temperature. Most often, a leak reveals itself in winter during sudden temperature changes. Ethylene glycol vapors are toxic, so repairs should not be delayed.

Finding the stove on the Kalina is not difficult - it is located immediately behind the center console, slightly below the radio. The radiator size is 24 by 20 cm, thickness 5 cm. Immediately below it is installed the engine ECU, which is often filled with antifreeze in case of a serious leak.

Reasons for radiator failure:

• low quality antifreeze, the formation of scale and solid sediments in it, clogging the stove tubes;
• cheap types of antifreeze are aggressive to aluminum and lead to corrosion and cracks;
• low-quality products or counterfeits of well-known brands;
• water use in winter;
• destruction due to long-term use.

Signs of wear on the crosspiece

Often, motorists do not pay attention to insignificant signs that it is time to make repairs, and wait until the problem makes itself known publicly and this is fraught with consequences, especially when it comes to loss of vehicle controllability.

The first signs of wear on the crosspiece appear as:

• the presence of noticeable resistance to the steering wheel when rotating at speeds above 80 km/h;
• delayed wheel turning and loss of sensitivity (delayed response of wheels and steering shaft);
• increased free play angle of the wheels (popularly this symptom is also called “Steering play”);
• uneven rotation of the steering wheel, the steering wheel moves with sharp jerks;
• obvious grinding or knocking noise that occurs when the steering wheel is rotated; the grinding becomes especially noticeable and obvious on an uneven road.

Most often, motorists turn to a car service center to replace the steering shaft crosspiece mechanism only when the last sign of a malfunction appears, but in vain, because in the event of an emergency, the steering control will not be able to adequately respond to the driver’s efforts, and sometimes, the steering control may even fail, this is already fraught with very big troubles.

Repair of the shaft cross is carried out every 50 - 100 thousand, it is better more often, otherwise it will have to be completely replaced with a new one.

To replace, you will need to purchase a crosspiece - on average 150-300 rubles, some car services claim that for the steering to work correctly, you need the entire steering shaft (4 - 7 thousand rubles), but on most cars it is enough to change only the crosspiece.

Expert opinion

We advise you, dear readers, to purchase an aluminum stove radiator. Despite its disadvantages, practice shows that this type of radiator has proven itself well. For example, a VAZ 2114 from 2008, the heater radiator was replaced only in 2014, its service life is about 5 years.

Which brand of radiator should I choose?

As already mentioned above, it is better to purchase a factory radiator. Cheaper but of good quality are Luzar, Fenox and Orenburgskie.

When replacing the radiator, we advise you to immediately replace the heater tap.

Self-replacement procedure for the steering shaft crosspiece

The replacement takes place in several stages:

1. We lift the car off the ground using a lift or by rolling it into a hole, but you can also get by by lifting the front of the car.
2. We set the steering wheel at a right angle and fix it, and also fix the steering wheel; during replacement, movement of the wheels and steering wheel is not desirable.
3. To access the steering shaft, remove the left (right) wheel. We go into the salon and unscrew the fastening bolt; after a slight effort, the steering shaft should come off the steering wheel.
4. Under the car, carefully remove the upper and lower casings, check the amount of dirt on the crosspiece and steering shaft driveshaft; not all cars have them protected by a boot (purchase and installation of such rubber will cost 100-200 rubles).
5. We find and unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece; you may have to use a WD tool. Once the bolt is removed, the steering shaft should easily come off the steering rack.
6. Pull the shaft down and pull it out. Often the crosspiece mechanism is rusty and dirty; first of all, you will need to wash it.
7. For flaring you will need a sprocket of the appropriate diameter; fix the shaft in a vice.
8. Using a head (presumably a 8-pointer), we knock out the cross first in one direction (remove the bearing cup), and in the other direction (also remove the cup).
9. Then we take a new crosspiece and insert it in the same order - we start one side first, and then the other, press it in using a vice (but not too tightly, the metal may wrinkle).
10. We align both cups and roll them with a chisel and hammer.

The final assembly procedure is no different from disassembly - the main thing is to maintain order. So, we have replaced the steering shaft crosspiece; if everything is done correctly, the handling will respond better to your efforts.

The steering crosspiece is the key to the control of the car; it is responsible for transmitting the rotation of the wheel to the rack and pinion assembly through the steering shaft cardan (the crosspiece itself is attached to it). Not just the ease of driving, but the safety and health of all passengers depends on its correct functioning. If the car has been in use for more than 100 thousand kilometers, it most likely needs repairs; it is worth studying in advance the question of when and how to change the crosspiece on the steering cardan.

How do you know when it's time to change the driveshaft?

Signs of its malfunction are noticeable, but have little effect on the quality of movement, which is why many car owners ignore the problem until the last moment, almost to the point of losing control of the car. You should not ignore signs of a malfunction; if at least two appear at once, you need to immediately carry out diagnostics. What are the signs of wear or breakage?

• When driving at a speed of more than 80 km/h, the steering wheel resists when turning, making it more difficult to turn.
• The steering wheel turns unevenly and jerks when turning, which puts additional stress on the hands.
• The steering wheel has become less sensitive, and the turning of the wheels responds to control late.
• The appearance of noticeable play (free movement of wheels with stable fixation of the steering wheel).
• Vibration of the driveshaft. Check with a tachometer to see if this vibration appears at one speed or at different speeds. Only vibration at different speeds indicates problems with the cardan; if it occurs at different speeds, but at the same frequency, then you need to think about how to change the steering cardan on a grant, because the speed of the cardan was different at that time.
• Knocking and grinding noises in the steering wheel, especially when driving on rough roads.

Background of the breakdown

About six months ago I felt light, almost imperceptible poking. Never ignore such signs! As I said above, all this can lead to serious problems, and possibly an accident.

I didn't pay attention to this. Apparently there was not enough experience. Then, over time, this all developed into more noticeable clicks. I read it, watched videos on the Internet, and even went to my neighbor for advice. By the way, he helped me with my work. Eventually I realized what the problem was. You also can’t get by with just one article; a friend’s advice can also help in solving the problem.

How to change the steering cardan

• It is better to roll the car into a pit (at least raise it in front of the car).
• Fix the steering wheel and steering wheel at a right angle. You should also not move or touch the wheels during repairs.
• Remove the front wheel, then unscrew the mounting bolt through the interior. If all operations are carried out correctly, the shaft should come off the steering wheel on its own.
• Remove both casings (top and bottom), make sure there is a boot on the steering shaft. If it is not there, it is better to install it after repair; the part costs no more than 200 rubles.
• Unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece, then the shaft will come off the steering rack on its own.
• Pull down and pull out the shaft. Before repairing, it is better to wash it from dirt and rust; it also affects the quality of movement.
• Secure the shaft in a vice. When it is secured, take the head and knock out the cross on one side to remove the bearing cup. Repeat the same action from the other end.
• Insert a new cross in the same order (one at a time on each side).
• Press in a new crosspiece with a vice (do not overpress).
• Align the cups and roll them with a hammer and chisel.
• Install the new part on the car in reverse order.

Many car owners note when they are looking for where and how to change the steering joint on a Toyota that steering crosspieces from the VAZ-2015 are very suitable for this brand. This greatly simplifies the process of finding parts and reduces the overall cost of repairs.

Why might the driveshaft break?

The most common reason is constant use of the car on uneven roads, driving over potholes and ruts. During such shaking, a large load falls on this moving part.

The second reason may be oil leakage due to a leaking oil seal. Because of the oil, the sealing ring https://podshipnik-mo.ru/koltsa-uplotnitelnyye hardens, and a gap appears between the oil seal and the rod. Or the mirror on the driveshaft connection is broken, and various roughness and burrs appear on the rod. In this case, the splines will have to be changed or sanded (but this is a temporary remedy).

We noticed that when driving on uneven roads (for example, gravel), vibration is strongly transmitted to the steering wheel. It is also possible that a knock may occur, but it is not the steering rack that is rattling. The cause of the rattling may be play in the steering shaft. It is proposed to solve the problem with the help of a simple modification, which was used on VAZ 2108-15 cars.

Knocking and rattling noises appear due to gaps in the mating parts. To eliminate them, insert a rubber cube (dimensions 22x22x22 mm) into the universal joint of the intermediate steering shaft. It is cut out from the rubber bumper of the rear suspension of the “classic”.

To install the rubber part into the steering shaft, you don’t need to remove anything, just crawl under the panel and look for the connection above the brake pedal. To fit the cube into a narrow space, you will need to lubricate it (for example, WD-40) and use a clamp or jack.

For owners of Lada Granta and Kalina models with ESD, there is an alternative to this modification - install a steering driveshaft without knocking (catalog numbers: 11186-3422092-00, 21230-3401085-00). Let us remind you that in some cases the causes of knocking can be eliminated by tightening the steering rack or steering shaft bolt. Have you encountered such a modification? What effect did you feel after installing the rubber cube?

Video

This video shows how to repair the steering mechanism on Kalina.

Knock in Kalina steering rack. How to remove.

Installation of Kalina steering rack.

Repair of the steering column gearbox and the RR itself on Priora, Kalina, Grant.

How to install a steering rack from Kalina 2 to Kalina 1.

Steering rack for Lada Kalina Sport with a gear ratio of 3.1 instead of 4.02.

Do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack, but not Kalina, but Daevoo Sens / Daewoo Sens.

Kalina control rack - VAZ 11183 Kalina rack repair

Have you ever had a chance to monitor knocks and noises from the side? Probably it happened. They changed the control tips, changed the ball tips, even changed the springs with support bearings, but does the knocking continue? It's time to tug, make sure there is free play and start sorting out the rack. In this article I will talk about repairing the VAZ 11183 rack , but the development is identical to all other VAZ front-wheel drive racks.

The most interesting thing is that these motherfuckers from AvtoVAZ do not fundamentally change anything except the gearbox housing, I bought a repair kit 2110-2112, the rack is listed in catalogs as 2110, but the splined part is longer than 2110, and the gearbox is slightly different, so just change Unfortunately, 11183 for 2110 will not work, although 2110 costs 2500 in my town, and 11183 5500 costs 6000 rubles. The difference per pocket is very noticeable.

Well, it doesn’t fit and doesn’t fit, so we give the engineers a hard time and start disassembling it. Unfortunately, there won’t be a photo for the article, because I was up to my elbows in mud and didn’t want to wash myself for the sake of pictures, but I’ll try to describe everything carefully.

Removing the steering mechanism.

1. For convenience of work in the future, and so as not to climb into the interior with stains, unscrew the bolt securing the splined connection from inside the cabin (you will see it near the floor of the control shaft).

2. We lift the car on a lift, throw it down, and knock out the control tips from the steering knuckles.