Structurally, the seventh model in the VAZ line is recognized as one of the simplest and most accessible for independent maintenance and repair. However, the “seven” also has complex components, which not every driver can repair with his own hands. One of these components is rightfully considered the gearbox.
- Gearbox design
Table: gear ratio ratios on VAZ 2105 and VAZ 2107
- Main technical characteristics of the VAZ 2107 box
Video: operating principle of a VAZ manual transmission
- What kind of gearbox can be put on the “seven”
- Why don't the gears turn on or turn on randomly?
- Removing the box
Video: instructions for dismantling work
- Video: instructions for disassembling the mechanical box
- Video: how to visually determine wear of bearings on shafts
- Input shaft oil seal
Photo gallery: replacement procedure
- Photo gallery: work procedure
- Video: a unique video on removing gear from fifth gear
- How to check the oil level in the gearbox
Photo gallery: do-it-yourself oil change in a box
- Self-adjustment of the scenes
Video: instructions for adjusting work
Five-speed manual transmission
The seventh model Zhiguli has a five-speed gearbox with five forward speeds and one reverse.
It is made of duralumin and has similar covers on the front and back. The clutch cover is attached to the front of the box using studs. A steel cover is installed on the bottom of the device. There are sealing gaskets between the box body and each lid.
The front cover is connected to the clutch housing using a press fit. There is a hole in it for the input shaft to exit and install the cuff.
Inside the box, shafts with gears, synchronizers and gear shifting devices are installed in a certain order. There is an oil filler hole on the right, and a drain hole with a magnetic plug on the bottom.
At the bottom left of the cover comes the speedometer cable, which is driven by the secondary shaft using a gear.
The gear shift lever is on top. Consists of a gear selection device, rods and a locking mechanism. A handle is attached to the lever on top. This entire structure is attached to the lid using three studs.
Type of gearbox:
- Clutch cover.
- Breather.
- Box body.
- Rear cover.
- Gear shift lever.
- Lever housing.
- Coupling flange.
- Screw.
- Speedometer drive.
- Tray cover.
- Hole for filling.
Exploded parts:
- Fork for engaging 3rd and 4th gears.
- Fork for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.
- Fork fastener.
- Engraving washer.
- Fork rod for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.
- Rusk.
- Fork rod for engaging 3rd and 4th gears.
- Gear shift lever.
- Fork rod for engaging 5th gear and reverse.
- Rusk.
- Rusk.
- 5th gear and reverse detent spring.
- Retainer cover with gasket.
- Retainer springs.
- Ball retainers.
- Fork for engaging 5th gear and reverse.
- Sleeve.
Moving parts of the gearbox:
- Intermediate shaft.
- Front intermediate shaft bearing.
- Rear main shaft bearing.
- Input shaft with 4th gear gear.
- Synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears.
- Synchronizer clutch hub.
- Synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears.
- Synchronizer clutch hub.
- Front secondary shaft bearing.
- Secondary shaft.
- Intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft.
- Rear secondary shaft bearing.
- 5th gear synchronizer clutch.
- Synchronizer clutch hub.
- Reverse gear.
- Gear with 5th gear synchronizer.
- Speedometer drive gear.
- Gear block for 5th gear and reverse gear.
- Gear block bearing.
- Reverse intermediate gear.
- Reverse idler gear axis.
- Rear intermediate shaft bearing.
- Gear with 1st gear synchronizer.
- Gear with 2nd gear synchronizer.
- Gear with 3rd gear synchronizer.
Gearbox VAZ 2101 - PURPOSE
The gearbox (gearbox) of the VAZ 2101 is one of the main components of the car. The purpose of the mechanism is to convert the torque coming from the engine crankshaft and transmit it to the transmission.
DEVICE
The “penny” was equipped with a gearbox of four forward gears and one rear gear. Switching between stages is carried out by moving the gear shift knob located in the cabin. At the time of production, this type of gearbox was considered one of the best, which was due to minimal losses. The main elements of the box are the crankcase, the shift mechanism and three shafts:
- primary;
- secondary;
- intermediate.
Details of the gearbox input shaft: 1 - retaining ring;
2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing; 4 - input shaft; 5 — synchronizer spring; 6 — synchronizer blocking ring; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - bearing There are a lot of components in the box, but the unit has relatively small dimensions. To make it possible to disconnect the box from the engine, the connection is made through the clutch. The primary shaft of the unit has splines, through which it engages with the drive (driven disk). The primary shaft is mounted inside the box using bearing units: the front one is mounted in the rear part of the crankshaft, and the rear one is located in the box housing.
Details of the secondary shaft of the gearbox: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 — synchronizer hub; 4 — synchronizer clutch; 5 - retaining ring; 6 — synchronizer blocking ring; 7 — synchronizer spring; 8 — washer; 9 — gear III gear; 10 - secondary shaft; 11 - 2nd gear gear; 12 — washer; 13 — synchronizer spring; 14 — blocking ring; 15 — retaining ring; 16 — synchronizer hub; 17 — synchronizer clutch; 18 — retaining ring; 19 — synchronizer blocking ring; 20 — synchronizer spring; 21 — washer; 22 — 1st gear gear; 23 — bushing of the 1st gear gear; 24 - bearing; 25 — reverse gears; 26 — spring washer; 27 — retaining ring; 28 — speedometer drive gear; 29 — rear bearing; 30 — oil seal; 31 — elastic coupling flange; 32 - nut; 33 - seal; 34 - centering ring; 35 — retaining ring
The reverse end of the input shaft is equipped with a sprocket, which is a single piece with the shaft and is engaged with the intermediate shaft (inlet shaft). To prevent lubricant from leaking out of the box body, the rear bearing element is sealed with a cuff. The end part of the secondary shaft fits into the primary shaft.
The secondary shaft is centered using three bearings, which simultaneously ensure its fastening. A needle type is used at the front; it is located at the end of the input shaft. The second ball-type bearing is intermediate and is located behind the 1st gear gear. The third bearing is also a ball bearing and is located in the box housing cover behind the secondary shaft. The industrial shaft is located below the two previous shafts. At the same level with it there is a unit that allows the car to move backwards.
VAZ 2101 gearbox diagram: 1 - gearbox pan; 2 — plug for the hole for controlling the amount of gearbox lubricant; 3 — gear of the 2nd stage PrV; 4 — gear of the 3rd stage PrV; 5 — PrV with a set of gears; 6 — bearing PrV (front); 7 - thrust bolt; 8 — washer; 9 — PrV gear (with constant clutch); 10 — synchronizer washer for the 4th stage of the PV; 11 - input shaft; 12 — crankcase front cover; 13 — oil seal; 14 — bearing PV (rear); 15 — clutch housing; 16 — housing 17 — breather of the crankcase ventilation system; 18 — PV gear (with constant clutch); 19 — explosive bearing (front); 20 — 4th stage synchronizer ring; 21 — synchronizer clutch of the 3rd and 4th stages; 22 — 3rd stage synchronizer ring; 23 — 3rd stage synchronizer spring; 24 — gear of the 3rd stage of the explosive; 25 — gear of the 2nd stage of the explosive; 26 — hub of the synchronizer coupling of the 1st and 2nd stages; 27 - secondary shaft; 28 — gear of the 1st stage of the explosive; 29 — bushing; 30—BB bearing (intermediate); 31 — gear ZH BB; 32 — lever rod; 33 - pillow; 34 — bushing; 35,36 — bushings (remote, shut-off); 37 — boot (external); 38 — boot (internal); 39 — lever support washer (spherical); 40 — gearshift lever; 41 — explosive seal (rear); 42 — cardan coupling flange; 43 — nut BB; 44 - seal; 45 - ring; 46 — BB bearing (rear); 47 — odometer gear; 48 — odometer drive; 49 — gearbox housing cover (rear); 50 — fork ZX; 51 — gear ZX (intermediate); 52 — gear ZH PrV; 53 — axis of the intermediate gear ZX; 54 — gear of the 1st stage PrV; 55 - magnet; 56 - plug
SPECIFICATIONS
In order for the car to move at different speeds, each gear in the VAZ 2101 gearbox has its own gear ratios, which decrease as the gear increases:
- first - 3.753;
- second - 2.303;
- third - 1.493;
- fourth - 1.0;
- rear - 3.867.
Such combinations of gear ratios provide high traction in the first stage and maximum speed in the fourth. To reduce noise during operation of the unit, all gearbox gears operating while the machine moves forward are made with oblique teeth. Reverse gears have straight teeth. To ensure ease of control and gear changes with minimal loads (shocks), the forward stages are equipped with synchronizer rings.
WHAT TRANSMISSION TO PUT ON A VAZ 2101
The VAZ 2101 can be equipped with several options for boxes. Their choice depends on the goals being pursued, i.e. what the car owner wants to achieve: greater traction, dynamics, or whether a universal car is needed. The main difference between gearboxes is the difference in gear ratios.
FROM ANOTHER VAZ MODEL
Rear-wheel drive Zhigulis at the dawn of their production, in particular, the VAZ 2101/02, were equipped with only one gearbox - 2101 (they did not have a reversing light switch). A similar gearbox was installed on 21011, 21013, 2103. In 1976, a new unit 2106 with different gear ratios appeared. They were also equipped with the VAZ 2121. In 1979, another gearbox was introduced - 2105 with its own gear ratios, which were intermediate between 2101 and 2106. The 2105 gearbox could be used on any classic Zhiguli model.
On the VAZ 2101 you can install a five-speed gearbox 21074
Which box to choose for the VAZ 2101? It is worth taking into account that the most universal is the 2105 gearbox. When developing gearboxes, compromise parameters were selected between reliability, efficiency and dynamics. Therefore, if you install a 2101 box on a VAZ 2106, the dynamics of the car will improve, but the service life of the rear axle gearbox will decrease. If, on the contrary, you set the gearbox from the “six” to a “penny”, then the acceleration will be slow. There is another option - to equip the VAZ 2101 with a five-speed gearbox 21074. As a result, fuel consumption will decrease slightly, and the load on the engine at high speeds will also decrease. However, a “penny” engine with such a gearbox will not pull well on climbs - you will have to switch to fourth gear.
Gear ratios at the gearbox
The seventh model of the Zhiguli received a good version of a five-speed gearbox. The designers of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant took a box from a VAZ 2105 as a prototype, replaced the gear ratio of the main gearbox pair from 4.3 to 4.1, then to 3.9 and obtained the following gear ratios.
| home | 1st gear | 2nd gear | 3rd gear | 4th gear | 5th gear | Reverse |
| 4,1/3,9 | 3,667 | 2,100 | 1,361 | 1,000 | 0,820 | 3,530 |
The gear ratio is the ratio of the number of teeth on the driven gear to the number of teeth on the drive gear.
Primary shaft
The input shaft transmits torque from the engine crankshaft through the clutch disc to the gearbox. The disc is located on the splines of the front part of the shaft. A constant mesh gear is rigidly mounted on the shaft.
For free rotation, it is placed in two bearings. One bearing is located at the end of the crankshaft, the other is in the front cover of the gearbox.
Secondary shaft
In a complex gearbox mechanism, the secondary shaft is the final stage in converting torque and transmitting it to the cardan. The gears of the first three speeds move freely on this shaft. At a certain gear, they engage with the intermediate shaft gears and provide the required torque.
The shaft is placed in bearings, there are three of them. One is pressed into the end of the input shaft, the other into the box body, and the third into the rear cover.
Intermediate shaft
The intermediate shaft transmits rotation from the primary shaft to the secondary shaft.
He plays the role of a satellite. The gears and shaft are made from a single piece. It is installed on three bearings. The gears for fifth and reverse speed are located on it.
Forks
In the process of switching speeds, forks are involved, which move gears along the shaft to a certain place.
The gear shift lever moves the forks.
Gearbox VAZ 2107
Despite the fact that among the entire line of VAZ cars, the seventh model is structurally one of the most affordable and easy to maintain, not everyone will be able to carry out diagnostic and repair work on their own. This is due to the fact that the car has both simple and complex components and assemblies. So, manual transmission 2107 belongs to the second type.
It is important to understand that assembling such a device requires certain skills, experience and knowledge. However, if necessary, you can perform maintenance and repairs yourself. In other words, although repairing a gearbox is a complex job that must be done professionally and efficiently, you can carry out a number of operations yourself.
Box 5th mortar VAZ 2107: design features, switching diagram
The VAZ 2107 gearbox diagram (five-speed) is practically the same as in a four-speed gearbox, the only difference is the presence of another fifth speed, activated by moving the lever to the left all the way and forward. The VAZ 2107 5 mortar gearbox allows you to change the torque frequency in five different positions:
- moving forward at different speeds in accordance with gears from 1 to 5;
- moving backwards when engaging sixth (reverse) gear.
Gear shifting in a five-speed gearbox is carried out in the same way as in a classic four-speed gearbox. When squeezing the clutch, you need to move the gear shift lever to the desired position corresponding to the speed limit of the car.
Structurally, the VAZ 2107 gearbox is a rather complex device, externally representing the form of a closed case (three sides are closed with completely durable covers, the fourth “passes” into the gear shift knob). The VAZ 2107 gearbox itself consists of about 40 elements and parts. Let's look at the main ones.
Inside the box there are the following main elements:
- The input shaft of the VAZ 2107 is a shaft with four toothed gears (one of the main elements of the box). The input shaft, being one piece with the gears, rotates with them on a bearing, which is fixed in the lower part of the gearbox and sealed with an oil seal;
- The secondary shaft with ten gears, being a continuation of the primary shaft, has gears for first, second and third gears. All gears on the secondary shaft have different dimensions to ensure torque conversion. The secondary shaft rotates on bearings, just like the primary one;
- The intermediate shaft is a kind of “layer” between the secondary and primary shafts and has gears that are one with it.
It is through them that torque is transmitted from one shaft to another; The forks ensure gear shifting while the vehicle is moving using a shift lever. By pressing the gear of a particular shaft, the forks force the mechanism to work. - The device also includes hinges and gear shift levers.
The 2107 gearbox has gear ratios and technical characteristics similar to the VAZ 2105 gearbox. Parameters of the VAZ 2107 five-speed gearbox:
- main pair - 4.1/3.9 (4.3);
- 1st gear - 3.667 (3.667);
- 2nd gear -2.100 (2.100);
- 3rd gear - 1.361 (1.361);
- 4th gear - 1.00 (1.00);
- 5th gear – 0.820 (0.801);
- Reverse gear - 3.530 (3.530).
The main technical characteristics of the box include working in conjunction with a single-plate clutch, which has only one (central) pressure spring and synchronizers for each forward gear.
Rules for disassembling and assembling the gearbox
If the user has never encountered the repair of such a complex unit, the procedure should be carefully prepared.
- Disassembly of the mechanism is carried out only after it has been completely cleaned of dirt.
- All the tools required for disassembly are pre-prepared - keys, squeezes, pliers, lock ring pullers. It is also advisable to have a separate container for storing small bolts, nuts, and washers.
- It is necessary to dismantle the mechanism parts by first treating the bolts with an anti-boiling agent.
- When disassembling, the units are folded in the dismantling sequence.
- Human memory is extremely unreliable - a photograph of a disassembled mechanism before its reassembly is the best reminder.
- All gaskets without exception must be replaced. Recycling of seals is strictly prohibited.
- No one has canceled the abundance of the cleaner. When washing the structure, you should not skimp on the cleaning material; the better you wash it, the more fun it will be.
- Assembly of the unit is carried out exclusively in the reverse order.
- If after installation there are excess parts left (which is not uncommon), the entire gearbox is completely rebuilt.
It is also necessary to maintain maximum cleanliness during work. Dust, metal shavings, or foreign objects can cause serious damage to the gears.
Types of gearboxes in a car
Let's look at the distinctive features of each type.
- A manual transmission, or, in other words, manual, is a classic type of gearbox. However, it has proven itself to be excellent among car owners who prefer maximum control over the car.
- Automatic transmission has also been known since relatively ancient times. The gears in this gearbox change automatically, but driver intervention is still required to change direction. The disadvantage of automatic transmission is higher fuel consumption and slow acceleration compared to manual transmission. Although in new automatic transmission models the acceleration is improved.
- The robotic gearbox is a manual gearbox with integrated automatic control. This variety combines the capabilities of an automatic (no need to monitor engine speed) and manual (for those who like fast acceleration).
The robotic (variable) gearbox has a significant drawback - the possibility of full use only on small cars. However, there are cases when a CVT was installed on crossovers such as the 2022 Honda CR-V with a 2.4-liter engine. The variable transmission design allows you to change the gear ratio thanks to continuously variable gear shifting or through electronic control. By changing the diameters of the pulleys, the speed of the car increases or decreases.
CHARACTERISTICS
The car was produced from 1982 to 2013. VAZ 2107 configurations include small volume and power engines, from 1.3 to 1.7 liters. The minimum number of horsepower is 64, the maximum is 135.
All variations without exception are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission. Acceleration time to 100 kilometers per hour varies from 13 to 17 seconds, depending on the internal combustion engine. Although the maximum permissible speed of a car is 180 kilometers per hour, even the engineers themselves do not recommend exceeding the mark of 140. The danger is due to the lowest rating according to automotive safety standards (poor engine location, fragile body materials, etc.), a high probability of skidding due to low weight - 1040 kilograms - and rear-wheel drive.
Even the average fuel consumption - 9-10 liters - cannot be called an advantage of the car, since much more serious analogues with 3 or even more liter units consume comparable amounts of gasoline. By the way, there are no diesel versions of the VAZ 2107.
Technical characteristics of manual transmission
In the operating instructions, the technical characteristics of the box are indicated together with the characteristics of the transmission. This is given in tabular form:
| Clutch | Single-disk, dry with hydraulic drive and central diaphragm spring |
| Transmission | Mechanical, five-speed, three-way, three-shaft, with synchronizers on all forward gears |
| Gear ratios | |
| First | 3.667 |
| Second | 2.100 |
| Third | 1.361 |
| Fourth | 1.000 |
| Fifth | 0.820 |
| Reverse | 3.530 |
| Cardan transmission | Twin-shaft with intermediate support and elastic coupling |
| main gear | Hypoid |
| Final drive ratio | 3.9 or 4.1 |
| Differential | Conical, two-satellite |
Gear selection mechanism:
| 1 – gear selection lever (forward); | 6 – reverse fork axis; |
| 2 – guide axis of locking brackets; | 7 – locking bracket; |
| 3 – axis of the gear selection lever; | 8 – reverse fork; |
| 4 – spring; | 9 – gear selection lever (reverse); |
| 5 – retaining ring; | 10 – housing of the gear selection mechanism. |
Two axles are mounted in the housing (10) of the gear selection mechanism. A three-year-old gear selector lever and two locking brackets (7 and 12) are installed on the axis (3). The other axis (2) passes through the holes of the locking brackets, securing them from turning. The gear selector lever arm (1) is used to engage P forward gear, the lever arm (9) is used to engage reverse gear, and the third arm is used by the gear selector rod lever. A fork (8) for engaging reverse gear is installed on the axle (6).
Oil is poured into the gearbox of a VAZ 2110, the level of which should be between the control marks of the oil level indicator.
Transmission malfunctions
The box on the seventh model Zhiguli is considered a reliable unit. If you maintain it regularly and treat it with care during operation, then repairs will not be needed for a long time. However, all components and parts are subject to wear. There are many reasons for this. In any case, if a malfunction is detected in the gearbox, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and repairs.
Most malfunctions occur of the following types.
One of the gears does not engage
Without opening the box, we can assume that:
- the hinges and springs are worn out and need to be replaced, or better yet, a complete repair;
- on synchronizers, the rings have become unusable and need to be replaced;
- synchronizer spring burst, replace;
- The teeth on the transmission gears are worn, replace the gear.
Knocks out gear when driving
It happens that when you turn on a gear, it does not turn off randomly. Possible reasons:
- the lever hinge is jammed, inspect and clean;
- the clutch is faulty, it may not engage completely, adjust it, if the disc is worn, replace it;
- The shift lever is broken, replace it with a new one;
- Forks, shift gears are bent, replace with new ones.
Crunching and grinding in the box while driving
This problem appears for the following reasons:
- the bearings are worn out, they should be replaced, and at the same time check the seals;
- the teeth of the gears are worn out, in this case it is better to make a major repair;
- There is not enough or no lubricating fluid in the gearbox, find the leak and fix it, add oil.
Grease leaking from box
The gearbox is designed so that lubricant cannot leak out spontaneously. But if an oil stain has formed under the car, an inspection should be made and the leak eliminated.
The reason may be:
- wear of oil seals and sealing gaskets due to natural aging of rubber must be replaced with new ones;
- the fastenings of the covers on the box have become loose, tighten all the nuts and bolts completely;
- mechanical damage to the body or lids of the box; if the steel lid is damaged, it can be welded. If the crankcase is damaged, it is better to replace it, since it is cast from an aluminum alloy.
Backstage at the checkpoint - what is it for?
In the language of service station specialists, the rocker is called “gearbox control drive rod.” The shift lever itself is mistakenly taken for the backstage when the backstage is a multi-component element:
- gear lever;
- craving;
- fork;
- seal fastening.
As part of the gearbox, the link plays the role of a connecting link between the lever and the driveshaft. Being a mechanical device, it can wear out, so the driver will immediately begin to notice problems in driving the vehicle. Current breakdowns are usually associated with the exhaustion of the life of the link, and less often with a drop in the oil level in the gearbox.
The device has an increased service life if the vehicle is used correctly
Self-adjustment of the scenes
If you have the first problems with shifting gears, you can first try adjusting the rocker. It is quite possible that some connections have become loose and a little intervention can fix this problem:
- Drive the car onto the overpass.
- Move the lever to the left to the maximum.
- Tighten the clamp under the car between the rocker and the shaft.
- Lubricate the parts with special lubricant through the joints in the box body.
Usually these actions are quite enough to return the car to its original controllability.
Video: instructions for adjusting work
How to remove and install the rocker on a VAZ 2107
In fact, the process of dismantling the old stage and installing a new one is quite simple. Car enthusiasts themselves explain in accessible language on forums exactly how to carry out the work.
As Raimon7 correctly wrote, this can be done from the interior. It’s quite simple: just unscrew the 3 bottom nuts (see photo) and pull out the entire mechanism. If you have a 5speed, then there are no problems at all, but if you have a 4speed, then you will need to disconnect the “gear shift lever” from the spring (see photo) (this is what you broke off). The spring will need to be pulled out so that it doesn’t accidentally fall down, we have a friend here who drives around with this spring, it’s not clear where. Then you just take everything apart: the gear selection mechanism, throw out the broken lever, insert a new one, reassemble it, screw the selection mechanism back and everything is possible drive
Magadan
https://vaz-2106.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=7549&st=40
Thus, it is not for nothing that the gearbox on the VAZ 2107 is considered one of the most complex design elements of the model. The owner can do some of the operation, inspection and repair work with his own hands, but do not overestimate your strength in the event of serious large-scale problems with the gearbox - it is better to pay for the services of specialists.
Work on dismantling the five-speed gearbox VAZ 2107
Installing the car on a lift (you can use an overpass or a pit) is preceded by disconnecting the battery and removing the radio panel:
- Remove and disassemble the gearbox rod.
- Remove the cover from the gap where the lever attaches and remove the foam filling.
- Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust system.
- Move the starter, disconnect the speedometer wire.
- Unscrew the bolts holding the cardan and remove it.
- The clutch cylinder is removed using the same method.
- After this, the gearbox is removed from the car. To do this, it is best to invite assistants who will support the mechanism while you unscrew the mounting bolts. At this stage, it is also advisable to drain the transmission oil.
After all these steps have been completed, we repair the VAZ 2107 gearbox.
Which bearings are better for a VAZ 2107 box?
Transmissions of classic models from AvtoVAZ are distinguished by good reliability, ease of maintenance and relative, compared to foreign models, ease of repair. However, given the advanced age of even the youngest models, many may have problems not only with the body, electrical and other parts, but also with the operation of the gearbox. Its system contains a large number of parts, the operation of which as a whole is critical for the system. These components include the bearing of the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox. This small part is responsible for the operation of the gearbox shaft itself, which ensures unimpeded transmission of torque and changes in gear ratios.
Similar functions are performed by other bearings in the box - the secondary shaft and the intermediate shaft. These parts are made of especially strong metal cases in the shape of a circle, with a large number of moving parts in the form of metal hinges, which allow the shafts to freely carry out their direct functions.
At the same time, the reliability of these parts is quite high; they fail only at very high mileage or when critically high loads are applied to the gearbox. Also, such parts undergo simple diagnostics. There are many different components on the market in the form of spare parts for VAZ cars.
Attention! Foreign brand companies that supposedly produce products specifically for the classic VAZ 2107 model often hide cheap Chinese products, which, even if they fit into the seats, will not be able to fully ensure trouble-free long-term operation of the box.
Gearbox device for VAZ 2107
In general, the five-speed transmission has the same functions as its predecessors: it varies the direction and magnitude of torque from the engine. The differences are that the five-speed has 6 speeds, including 1 reverse speed.
Inside the gearbox housing there are:
- two types of shafts with different numbers of gears - primary and secondary;
- levers responsible for changing gears.
If any malfunctions are detected, it is recommended to remove the box based on the manufacturer's instructions.
Signs and causes of box malfunctions
The gearbox on the VAZ 2107 is considered a fairly reliable unit, however, during long-term use, some of its elements may fail for one reason or another. If the first disturbances in the operation of the gearbox appear, in order to avoid more serious breakdowns, it is necessary to diagnose and fix the problem as quickly as possible.
The list of main breakdowns of the VAZ 2107 manual transmission, the causes of their occurrence and methods of elimination are varied. It is important to pay attention to the following signs, as well as choose the right repair methods:
- The gears are engaged randomly or not at all (wear of the moving parts of the gearbox (spring, hinges), wear of the locking rings on the synchronizers, wear of the synchronizer spring, wear of the teeth on the gears). The problem is eliminated by replacing faulty parts, or by carrying out a major overhaul of the box;
The gear is knocked out when switched on, the engine is subjected to heavy loads (the clutch is not fully engaged, the hinge on the shift lever is jammed, the shift lever is faulty, the forks in the gearbox are deformed). The problem is eliminated as follows: adjusting the clutch mechanisms, cleaning the hinge joints, replacing the lever or replacing a whole set of forks;
VAZ 2107 box repair
Taking into account all the design and operational features of the VAZ 2107 gearbox, carrying out repair work independently is only possible if you have extensive experience in servicing and repairing such units. If the box on a VAZ 2107 needs repair, the main stages of repair work are:
- preparation (availability of the necessary tools, pit or overpass);
- installing the car on a pit/overpass, draining the oil from the gearbox, etc.);
- dismantling the box;
- disassembly and troubleshooting;
- trouble-shooting;
- assembly and installation of the box in place.
- socket wrench at “10” and “19”;
- Phillips-blade screwdriver;
- tweezers and two screwdrivers with a thin flat blade;
The general procedure is as follows:
- install the car on a viewing hole or on an overpass;
- by disconnecting the wire from the negative terminal on the battery, drain the gearbox lubricating fluid (gear oil);
- Having removed the radio panel and pressing the lever, insert a flat-head screwdriver into the hole in the locking sleeve of the box to bring it out;
- Having removed the rod from the lever, use tweezers to remove the elastic rubber insert of the damper from the lever;
REPAIR
The VAZ 2107 has -speed gearbox, which, despite the comparative simplicity of its design, can become unusable for reasons classic for manual transmissions:
- wear and tear due to natural reasons: high mileage, irregular operation and depletion of the service life of components, weather conditions not meeting the desired ones, and as a result - a decrease in service life, etc.;
- non-compliance of the working fluid with standards suitable for normal operation of the transmission;
- non-original spare parts included in the box;
- damage to the gearbox housing due to mechanical impact;
When it comes to the gearbox, even if it is a Zhiguli, the best option would be to entrust diagnostics and maintenance to specialists at a service station. Fortunately, repairing it will not cost too much, except in rare cases that require a complete replacement of the entire mechanism, when it would be more advisable to purchase the same new car.
Gearbox seals and their replacement
Oil seals in any mechanism where they exist act as gaskets. In this case, they are designed to seal the holes from which the primary and secondary shafts come out. Previously, oil seals were cast from rubber.
Currently made from modern composite materials, more resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments.
Input shaft oil seal
The oil seal, which is installed on the input shaft, has the following dimensions:
- • outer diameter – 47 mm;
- • internal diameter – 28 mm;
- • width – 8 mm;
- • weight – 20 grams.
It is installed in the shaft output hole in the clutch housing and serves to prevent lubricant from flowing through the shaft.
There is no difficulty in replacing the oil seal, but the gearbox will have to be removed.
The order of work to change the oil seal is as follows:
- Remove the clutch cover from the gearbox.
- Remove the release bearing and clutch fork.
- Remove the used oil seal by picking it up with a screwdriver or knife.
- Clean the place where the oil seal was located and wipe it dry.
- Install the new oil seal in its original place.
- Replace all the parts that were removed from the box in reverse order.
Secondary shaft oil seal
The oil seal, which is installed on the secondary shaft, is larger and has dimensions:
- outer diameter – 56 mm;
- internal diameter – 32 mm;
- width – 10 mm;
- weight – 10 grams.
It is installed at the output of the secondary shaft at the rear of the box.
The order of work to change the oil seal is as follows.
- Unscrew the nut securing the flange, having previously secured it.
- Remove the centering metal ring from the shaft.
- Remove the flange and washer using a puller.
- Pull out the old oil seal using a tool.
- Clean and wash the seal area.
- Install a new oil seal.
The role of oil seals in the operation of the gearbox, how to replace it
A seal is a dense rubber gasket, the main task of which is to seal the joints between different parts in the box. Accordingly, if the oil seal is severely worn, the sealing of the device is broken, and oil leaks may occur.
To prevent loss of lubricant and restore the tightness of the device, it will be necessary to change the oil seal. To do this, you will need simple tools that the driver always has at hand:
- nut heads;
- hammer;
- flat screwdriver;
- knife (they are most convenient for removing the old gasket);
- new oil seal;
- sealant.
Oil seals protect the box body, preventing oil leakage
Input shaft oil seal
This product is made of CSP and NBR composite, which ensures the longest possible service life. In working condition, the oil seal is completely immersed in transmission oil, due to which its elasticity is maintained for a long time.
The input shaft oil seal is designed to operate in a temperature range from -45 to +130 degrees Celsius. Weighs 0.020 kg and measures 28.0x47.0x8.0 mm
The input shaft seal of the VAZ 2107 gearbox is located in the clutch housing. Therefore, to replace it, you will need to dismantle the casing. And to do this, you need to drive the car onto an overpass or inspection hole.
Replacement of the input shaft gasket is carried out as follows:
- Remove the gearbox from the car (you can get the oil seal with the gearbox still in place, but the procedure will take a lot of time).
- Remove the fork and release bearing from the gearbox (this will require a hammer, puller and vice).
- Remove six nuts from the casing.
- Remove the casing itself (it has the shape of a bell).
- Access to the oil seal is now open: remove the old gasket with a knife, thoroughly clean the joint and install a new oil seal.
- Next, assemble the casing in reverse order.
Find out how to replace gearbox seals on a VAZ 2107: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/kpp/zamena-salnika-pervichnogo-vala-kpp-vaz-2107.html
Photo gallery: replacement procedure
The bearing is difficult to pull out; you will have to use a special puller. The casing can be easily removed immediately after unscrewing the fastening nuts
New products are installed in place of old ones
Secondary shaft oil seal
The product is also made from high quality composite materials. In terms of technical characteristics, the secondary shaft oil seal is not much different from the primary shaft oil seal.
However, it weighs a little more - 0.028 kg and has larger dimensions - 55x55x10 mm.
The location of the oil seal explains some of the difficulties in removing and replacing it:
- Secure the box flange by inserting a bolt of the required diameter into its hole.
- Turn the flange fastening nut with a wrench.
- Using a screwdriver, pry up the centering metal ring and pull it out from the secondary shaft.
- Remove the bolt from the hole.
- Place the puller against the end of the secondary shaft.
- Remove the flange along with the washer.
- Using screwdrivers or pliers, remove the old oil seal from the box.
- Clean the joint and install a new oil seal.
Photo gallery: work procedure
You need to work with the shaft carefully so as not to damage its surface.
If necessary, you can also use a vice
New oil seals are easily installed in the seat
Replacing gears and synchronizers
The work of replacing gears and synchronizers is one of the most difficult when repairing a gearbox. There is a standard repair kit containing all the necessary parts to help cope with the task. It is advisable to prepare a special tool.
Gears and synchronizers on the primary and secondary shafts are changed in almost the same way.
The process goes like this:
- remove the shaft from the box;
- clamp the shaft in a vice, wrapping it in something soft;
- Remove the retaining ring from the shaft using a special tool or a screwdriver:
- press the bearings off the shaft;
- remove the shaft from the vice, place it vertically, resting the first gear on two supports;
- carefully press the gear off the shaft;
- Carry out similar operations with the remaining gears and synchronizers.
Removing and replacing the fifth gear gear occurs differently.
How to replace gears and synchronizers
As mentioned above, independent work with gearboxes, and even more so with shafts and their elements, is fraught with many errors. Therefore, it is better to entrust the replacement of gears and synchronizers to specialists at auto repair shops.
In this condition, the gear will not be able to perform the full amount of work.
Experienced VAZ 2107 owners can watch a special video that explains all the nuances of changing these parts.
Video: a unique video on removing gear from fifth gear
Transmission oil for gearboxes
To select gear oil for the Lada gearbox, you need to take into account the region where the car will be operated.
Two types of oils are offered. The first - with a temperature range from +35 to -26, this is SAE 80W85 and the second - with a temperature range from +45 to -40, this is SAE 75W90.
The best oil is synthetic, but semi-synthetic and mineral oils will not harm the Seven’s transmission. The amount of oil in the VAZ 2107 gearbox is about 1.6 liters. The oil change time is carried out according to the instructions in the technical instructions supplied with the car.
Manual transmission oil level
The oil level in the box is checked as follows:
- drive the car onto an overpass or pit;
- clean the filler plug;
- unscrew the plug;
- measure through the hole with a probe or other object resembling a probe. The oil should be level with the end of the filler hole; top up if necessary.
Oil change
It is better to change the oil on an overpass or pit with a warm engine, so the oil will drain faster. Prepare the tool in advance, a container for working out at least two liters, oil for changing.
The order is as follows:
- clean the fill and drain plugs from dirt;
- Place the prepared container for used oil under the drain hole;
- open the drain hole and wait until the oil completely drains into the container;
- clean the plug of old oil and close the drain hole;
- pour 1.5 liters of new oil into the box through the filler hole (it’s better to fill it with a supercharger);
- let it sit for ten minutes, then check the level and top up if necessary.
OIL IN GEARBOX VAZ 2101
The oil in the “penny” gearbox, like in any other vehicle unit, needs to be replaced periodically. But before you perform this procedure, you need to know when and how to replace it and what lubricant to use.
WHAT OIL TO PUT INTO THE VAZ 2101 GEARBOX
Today there is a wide selection of transmission oils for cars. The difference between them lies in the additives used, or, more precisely, in their classes. There are the following classes of markings: from GL 1 to GL 5. For the VAZ 2101 gearbox, the best option is considered to be GL 5 class oil with a viscosity grade of 85W90 or 80W90. This lubricant is intended for hypoid gears and provides good lubrication of rubbing elements even under high loads. In addition, GL 5 oil can be used not only for the gearbox, but also for the rear axle. Of the manufacturers, preference should be given to those who are suitable in terms of price.
The VAZ 2101 gearbox must be filled with GL5 class gear oil with a viscosity of 85W90 or 80W90
CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL
For the gearbox to function properly, the oil level in the crankcase must always be optimal. It needs to be checked periodically. If the grease level in the box is normal, it should be level with the bottom edge of the filling hole. The oil volume in the VAZ 2101 gearbox crankcase is 1.35 liters.
HOW OFTEN TO CHANGE THE OIL IN THE TRANSMISSION OF A VAZ 2101
Although transmission oil is rarely changed, you still need to know when this procedure is necessary. As a rule, on a “classic” it is done every 40–60 thousand km. mileage or 3 years from the date of filling.
HOW TO DRAIN THE OIL
To drain the oil from a VAZ 2101 gearbox, you will need a hex wrench and a container of suitable volume, for example, a cut-off plastic bottle. Using a hexagon, unscrew the drain plug, which is located in the lower cover of the crankcase, and drain the oil.
To drain the oil from a VAZ 2101 gearbox, unscrew the drain plug in the bottom cover of the box using a hexagon.
The drain plug is wiped clean of dirt and screwed back into place. In addition, you need to pay attention to the drained oil and, if there is metal dust in it, you will need to repair the box as soon as possible.
HOW TO FILL OIL
To fill the gearbox with lubricant, you need to unscrew the filler plug with a 17mm wrench and clean it of dirt. The oil is poured in the required volume using a special syringe. Many people do not measure the required volume of lubricant, but simply fill it in until it begins to flow back out. After filling, immediately screw the plug into place. Instead of a syringe, you can use homemade devices if you have the desire and time to make them.
Oil is poured into the gearbox using a special syringe through the oil filler hole.
VIDEO: CHANGING THE OIL IN THE TRANSMISSION ON A CLASSIC
Transmission repair: when to do it
Repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox may be required in the following cases:
- Excessive noise is produced when the box operates. This noise is caused by increased wear of bearings, gears and synchronizers.
- It becomes difficult to change the transmission. The reasons for this consequence are hidden in the wear of the lever, the lack of lubricant inside the box, and the deformation of the gearbox lever. Also, the cause of this phenomenon may be jamming of the blocking cracks or damage to the coupling splines.
- Spontaneous transmission shutdown. The reasons for this consequence are wear of the ball holes on the rods, jamming of the clamps, blocking rings and the synchronizer itself.
- Oil leakage occurs. Repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox must be carried out when oil leaks are detected on it. The causes of leakage can be either serious damage or simple wear of oil seals and seals.
In any case, disassembling the gearbox will be required if one of the above symptoms occurs, which will allow us to identify the exact cause of the malfunction and eliminate it. If even the slightest malfunction of the gearbox is detected, it is necessary to begin repairing it, which will prevent unforeseen consequences in the form of complete failure of the gearbox.
Features of repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2107
The design of the gearbox is no more complicated than the design of the engine itself, but in order to carry out repairs correctly, a certain sequence must be followed. We will find out in more detail in what sequence the disassembly and assembly of the gearbox is carried out.
- Initially, the gearbox should be removed from the vehicle. We will not consider how to remove the gearbox, since there is appropriate material for this. One has only to note that first you need to drain the oil from the gearbox. We will begin repair work immediately.
- The box is dirty and oily, so it is recommended that you take your time with the repair and clean the outer surface of the product.
- Using a screwdriver, you need to pry off the cover of the fork, which is used to disengage the clutch. The fork is moved to the side. To remove the plug, you need to rotate it 90 degrees and remove it from the hole.
- The gearbox disassembly scheme is common for both 4 and 5 mortars. You need to unscrew the clutch housing mounting nuts, then unscrew and remove the spring washers. These washers are located directly behind the nuts.
- When the fasteners are removed, you can continue to disassemble the gearbox. To do this, you need to pull the crankcase, disconnecting it from the main device.
- There is a sealing element behind the crankcase that also needs to be removed. If the gasket is worn, it should be replaced. There is a spring washer on the shaft, which also needs to be removed.
- Using a “10” wrench, you need to unscrew the 10 nuts securing the crankcase cover. After unscrewing all the nuts, remove the spring washers located behind these nuts. The cover also needs to be removed.
- Behind the cover there is a seal, which should also be removed by prying it off with a screwdriver.
- The photo below shows the nuts that need to be unscrewed. These nuts secure the rear engine mount to the gearbox housing. Behind the nuts there are washers that must be removed, as well as a cushion complete with a cross member.
- Do-it-yourself disassembly of the gearbox continues with unscrewing the speedometer drive nut. After unscrewing this nut, it is necessary to dismantle this drive.
- The VAZ 2107 transmission is a mechanism with a set of gears and forks through which the vehicle moves. Having turned the gearbox over to the other side, you need to remove the reverse light switch.
- The bolt securing the fork, which is responsible for switching third and fourth gears, is unscrewed.
- You need to turn on the first transmission using the gearshift lever on the VAZ 2107.
- At the same time as first gear is engaged, fourth gear must also be engaged. Using a screwdriver, move the synchronizer clutch to the side to connect it to the gear.
- You may ask, why is it necessary to engage 2nd gears at the same time? This is done in order to block the rollers from turning.
- The retaining ring is dismantled by prying it with a special puller on the secondary shaft.
- Using chisels and a hammer, bend the locking plate securing the flange nut.
- The nut must be loosened by 2-3 turns, which will allow the coupling centering ring to be removed. After moving the ring, you need to screw the nut.
- Using a special kind of puller, you need to dismantle the coupling ring.
- After removing the ring, it is necessary to dismantle the centering ring seal.
- Now you can use a wrench to unscrew the nut.
- There is a retaining ring behind the nut that also needs to be removed.
- Using another puller, it is necessary to dismantle the flange.
- The gearshift lever must be set to the neutral position, and then the sealing collar must be pulled up.
- Behind the cuff there are nuts that need to be unscrewed. After unscrewing them, the lever or rocker is dismantled.
- Behind the scenes there is a seal that must be removed.
- The gearbox on the VAZ 2107 is further disassembled by unscrewing the two nuts securing the exhaust pipe.
- There is a bolt behind the bracket that should also be removed.
- To remove the back cover of the box, you need to unscrew the 5 outer nuts.
- Another nut secures the cover from the inside, so after unscrewing the 5 outer nuts, you should proceed to the last one - the inner one.
- It is necessary to disconnect the back cover and the box housing, which requires moving the back cover. The fastening nut is unscrewed, and then the washer is removed.
- After unscrewing all the nuts, it is necessary to remove the rear cover from the crankcase, rocking it. The crankcase cover will come off on its own.
- After removing the cover, it is necessary to remove the inner ring from the secondary shaft. Behind the ring is the speedometer drive gear, which must also be removed.
- The cover of the clamps is found, after which the two bolts securing it are unscrewed. After removing the bolts, you must remove the cover.
- There is a gasket under the cover that needs to be removed.
- The spring clips are removed.
- The gearbox must be turned over, thereby removing the retaining balls.
- You need to find the drive gear retainer ball and remove it. The oil deflector washer also needs to be removed.
- You should continue further if two gears are engaged at the same time. With two gears engaged, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the 5th gear gears. As you guessed, this procedure is performed for the VAZ 2107 5 mortar gearbox.
- The fastening of the 5th gear shift fork, as well as the reverse gear, is unscrewed. After unscrewing, you must remove the plug.
- By holding the rod of the 5th gear, as well as the reverse transmission, you need to remove the rod from the crankcase and the shift fork.
- The gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear is dismantled manually.
- The gear bushing is removed in the same way from the secondary shaft.
- Once the bushing is removed, you will need to remove the gear, ring gear, locking ring and synchronizer clutch for the five-speed transmission.
- The 5th gear synchronizer clutch hub is removed.
- The reverse control gear is also removed.
- From the inside, the intermediate shaft bearing is pressed out. To do this, you will need to take a hammer and a punch, and apply light blows.
- Next, the bushing is removed from the secondary shaft. It is also necessary to remove the outer ring from the rear bearing.
- Using a puller, you need to unclench the locking ring and remove it.
- Two gears are engaged at the same time - first and fourth. The bearing securing bolt is unscrewed.
- Place a screwdriver between the outer side of the ring and the shaft gear, thus removing the bearing ring together with the balls.
- The rear inner ring is pressed out.
- The intermediate shaft is removed.
- The locking block of the transmission rod 3 and 4 is removed.
- Crackers vary in size, so remember their location.
- The shift rod 3 and 4 of the transmission is removed.
- The 3rd and 4th gear shift fork is removed.
- The bolt securing the fork 1 and 2 of the transmission is unscrewed.
- The transmission rod 1 and 2 is removed.
- The locking block 1 and 2 of the transmission is removed.
- The fork for selecting these gears is removed.
- The complete input shaft is removed.
- The needle bearing is removed.
- It is necessary to unfold the locking plate until it disengages from the groove.
- The reverse gear axis is removed.
- The intermediate ring is removed.
- The key is removed from the groove of the secondary shaft.
- The intermediate bearing is removed.
- The secondary shaft is recessed into the inside of the crankcase, thereby removing it.
- Using a hammer, it is necessary to press out the secondary shaft bearing.
- The sealing gland is removed.
- The bearing from the 5th gear can be removed with a screwdriver, using it as a lever.
WHY DO YOU NEED A SKETCH ON A TRANSMISSION?
The purpose of the rocker in any gearbox is to connect the gear shift lever with the rod leading to the gearbox. Despite the fact that this mechanism has a long service life, parts wear out over time. As a rule, problems are possible no earlier than after 100 thousand km. mileage The only thing that may require more frequent replacement is the rubber and plastic elements of the gearbox lever rod, which are used to connect it to the lever on the box.
HOW TO REMOVE THE SKETCH ON A VAZ 2101
To dismantle the rocker (short lever located on the box) on a VAZ 2101, you will need to remove the long gear control lever and the protective pad located on the floor of the cabin. To remove the mechanism, you need to remove the rubber cuff and then unscrew the fasteners of the ball joint of the lever. During removal, you need to be careful so that the release spring does not fall off. If it is not possible to remove the slide in this way, you will need to dismantle the back cover of the box, which will take a lot of time and effort. The slide is usually removed during box repair, and not always.
The linkage on the gearbox is removed quite rarely, since the mechanism practically does not fail
HOW TO INSTALL THE SCENE
Installation of the gear control mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. The linkage is sealed with a gasket and if the seal is in poor condition, it is better to replace it, which will prevent dirt from getting inside the box and possible oil leakage.
When installing the scenes, the gasket is installed in place, and then the mechanism itself
ADJUSTING THE SCENE
The linkage on the VAZ 2101 gearbox has a simple design and no adjustment work is required when repairing or replacing the part.
Maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2101 gearbox is within the capabilities of every car owner, which is due to the simple design of the mechanism. The only thing is that to carry out activities related to dismantling the unit, it is advisable to call an assistant, since the box is a rather heavy mechanism and removing it from the car yourself will not be easy and unsafe. With proper and timely maintenance, the gearbox will not cause any problems for a long time.
Source: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/kpp/korobka-peredach-vaz-2101.html
Splines and forks
There is a reverse gear between the wall of the VAZ-2107 gearbox housing and the fifth gear. Since it produces a reverse movement, the part is not connected directly, but through an intermediate gear. It is installed on the axis of the rear wall of the transmission housing. The gear fork fits into the groove of the gear. When it moves, the intermediate element engages with the reverse gear. The secondary shaft has synchronization clutch hubs. They are motionless. A speed synchronization clutch is put on the gear ring of the hub.
As for the shift fork, it fits into the annular groove of the synchronization clutch. The latter moves along with the movement of the rod. The clutch begins to act on the synchronizer blocking ring and, as a result, moves it. Thanks to the friction force, the rotation speed of the hub and gear is equalized. The teeth mesh with the gear timing ring. Torque begins to flow to the secondary shaft through the hub and clutch from the gear.
Front cover
It is installed in the clutch housing. Inside there is an oil seal for the input shaft. On the end wall there is a hole for draining transmission oil, which can flow out of the crankcase if the oil seal is worn. In addition, the box housing contains:
- Primary and secondary shaft.
- Gears, synchronizers.
- Intermediate shaft with shift drive elements.
There is a filler hole in the left wall of the new VAZ-2107 gearbox. It is closed with a metal plug with a conical thread. At the bottom, the box housing is closed with a stamped steel cover. The crankcase is secured with ten nuts. There is a breather in its cavity. There is a passage for oil in the rear wall of the crankcase. it enters the cavity of the lid
Sources
- https://7vaz.ru/remont/kpp-na-vaz-2107.html
- https://rus-avtomir.ru/remont/kpp-vaz-2107
- https://prometey96.ru/tyuning/korobka-vaz-2107.html
- https://kalina-2.ru/remont-vaz/razborka-sborka-kpp-vaz-2107-5-stupka
- https://iga-motor.ru/avtomobili/kak-raspolovinit-korobku.html
- https://GrandFart.ru/tormoza/korobka-pyatistupka.html
- https://AvtoSotka.ru/korobka-peredach/sborka-kpp-vaz-2107.html
- https://CoptersWorld.ru/pro-dvigatel/transmissiya-vaz-2107.html
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