Daewoo Nexia won't start: reasons, repairs

Probably every car owner, regardless of what kind of car he has, knows that feeling of powerless disappointment in a situation when the car refuses to start. Owners of the Daewoo Nexia are also familiar with this feeling. The engine will not start - this is a familiar issue for such cars. We will analyze the main causes of such failures and ways to eliminate them.

When buying such cars, the future owner must clearly understand that this is a budget car and nothing more. Once upon a time there was a powerful advertising campaign on television for pre-restyling models - “I love Uzbeks, they start well in winter.” Soon this phrase became famous and quickly became popular among people. And as it turned out, there is truth in this. If the Daewoo Nexia does not start after being parked in the cold, then something has definitely happened. The car has no problems starting in cold weather. But there is one small nuance here too.

Trambler and Daewoo-Nexia

A huge number of owners of pre-restyling models will be able to easily challenge the opinion of the car thief from advertising that various problems associated with starting in cold weather are not a surprise. But the Daewoo Nexia does not start only in cold weather. Sometimes it just suddenly, without serious reasons, suddenly refuses to start with the key. Moreover, if the car is pushed, the engine starts and runs easily with the precision of a Swiss watch.

This behavior of the engine directly informs owners about problems with the ignition system. In the case of Nexias, this diagnosis is also confirmed - problems with starting from the key lie in the distributor, and if the breakdown is diagnosed even more precisely, in the induction coil of the ignition distributor.

Over time, this part can literally crumble into dust. The manufacturer thought for a long time about how to solve this problem, and they found a solution. The company radically got rid of the ignition system along with the distributor. Auto mechanics say that in 2007 the one and a half liter engine was modernized - unified with the engine from the related budget car "Lanos". In addition to the main design changes, this modernization led to the fact that there was no distributor in the internal combustion engine. Instead, an electronic module responsible for ignition is installed.

Is it worth turning off the EGR?

No, well, it’s clear that the questionable cleanliness in the collector will warm the soul. And if you also turn off the crankcase ventilation, then everything in the manifold will start to shine. Moreover, it will shine even more than those who disabled only one USR!

Well, okay.

It is known that the USR system comes into operation in partial load mode, lowers the combustion temperature, which reduces the detonation threshold, and this, in turn, makes it possible to use earlier ignition.

I analyzed the diagnostic charts of different machines a lot. And he revealed two patterns:

Cars that did not have a USR system from the factory (and were disabled by software) work with the later UOS as a whole
When the USR valve opens, the OZ increases. Or vice versa - as the SOP increases, the USR valve opens.

Here's an example. The opening graph of the USR valve visually constantly repeats the ignition timing graph. The UOZ is up and the USR valve control signal is also up, the OZO is down and the USR valve control signal is also down. And the voltage of the knock sensor practically remains the same.

Typical reasons

The starter turns, but not? This happens quite often. The opposite situation also occurs - the starter does not turn. Which of these is worse is difficult to figure out even for experienced car owners. If such a problem occurs, it is necessary to check the most likely elements of the car that could cause this malfunction. You can do this on your own.

If there are problems with the starter, first check to see if there is a spark. Then they look at the filter, battery and its terminals. It didn't hurt to also test the throttle. For an engine to start, four elements are needed: a spark, air, compression and fuel. If the Daewoo Nexia does not start, the first thing they look at is the spark plugs.

Air filter

For a successful engine start, it needs a sufficient amount of oxygen. The filter removes foreign impurities from the air, increasing the stability of the power unit, and usually for 1 liter of fuel, the average internal combustion engine consumes 13-15 kg of air, which is taken outside the vehicle, and also regardless of weather conditions.

If the Daewoo Nexia air cleaner element is clogged, it should be replaced to restore normal air flow. Typically, the filter resource is about 10 thousand km of vehicle mileage. At the same time, by the way, it is recommended to check the air intakes and air ducts, because they too may become clogged with foreign objects.

Why is there no spark?

There are many reasons why there is no spark in an internal combustion engine. For example, this may indicate problems in the ignition module, malfunctions of the distributor coil in pre-restyling models, breakdowns in the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. You can test the reading elements yourself if you have easy access to them. Experts recommend using a diagnostic scanner - the latest Nexias are equipped with an ECU that can inform the owner about errors.

Next you should check the fuse box and relay. This way we will make sure that this is not the reason why the spark is missing. The most common option is failure of spark plugs or high-voltage wires. This is a common problem that can be easily resolved. But if the spark plugs and wires are fully operational, you should check the coil and ignition module for functionality.

The first can be diagnosed by disconnecting it from the wire. Then someone must turn the key in the ignition. Next, you should observe whether the electric current is suitable for the coil. If it goes, then the coil needs to be replaced.

Why is the EGR valve turned off?

It continues to operate normally, but exhaust gases no longer flow into the intake manifold because the path is blocked by a missing hole in the new gasket. The second way to disable EGR is to cut out a plug instead of the valve. It's a little more complicated here, but the result will be similar. It is necessary to remove the valve and, using it as a template, cut out a plug from steel or aluminum. The resulting plate is installed instead of the valve.

Plus, you can even buy such a plug! Here is its catalog number: But you can cut out such a cover yourself, there is nothing complicated here. When disconnecting the valve, also do not forget that the ECU monitors its serviceability on Euro engines. If you decide to completely remove the valve by disconnecting the connector from it, the engine fault lamp will light up on the instrument panel. As practice shows, on Euro-2 cars the lamp does not light up; the main thing is not to turn off the vacuum supply solenoid valve.

And the tube that goes from the intake manifold to the solenoid valve can be plugged with a small screw.

The fact is that two types of this valve are installed on Chevrolet Lanos. On cars up to the Euro-2 production year, a vacuum valve is installed with a separate electric valve, which is responsible for supplying vacuum.

Such a valve looks like this: On a Chevrolet Lanos after the Euro-3 year of production, the valve is slightly different.

Its dynamics completely suited me, besides, it was also chipped. It took off like a bullet, no failures, delays or anything else - the reaction to opening the throttle was simply lightning fast.

G-Tuning Lanos 1.5 EGR valve plug

And so I bought a Lanos, completely stock - nothing was done to the engine except changing the oil and filters. The firmware is naturally stock, and even the 8kL A15SMS engine.

After the Nexia, the Lanos of course seemed a little weak to get up, lethargic or something... I didn’t pull away, but dulled and thought for a long time.

It was really scary at intersections - you need to take off and get through, but he thinks whether to go or not? Remove the air duct pressure chamber, see Section Fuel pressure regulator - general information, Chapter Power and exhaust systems.

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. Remove the EGR valve mounting bolts on the intake manifold.

Installation is in the reverse order. Do not forget to replace the sealing gasket, make sure that all fasteners are tightened with the required force. This is where the so-called exhaust gas recirculation is performed. The opening of the valve is controlled by an electronic control unit, so that gases flow in under a certain operating mode of the power unit.

For example, when starting from a standstill, this valve is closed. Then why send exhaust gases into the intake manifold at all?

In fact, the USR valve performs one single function - it adjusts the engine to the toxicity standards that apply in the modern world.

Fuel system

If there is a spark, air enters in sufficient quantities, and at the same time, there is no need to curse the manufacturer. The fuel system may simply be faulty. Even inexperienced car owners know that the engine will not work without fuel.

If there are problems with the fuel system, the car will never start. Some car owners test the operation of this system using a syringe. It is filled with gasoline, and then the mixture is injected into the throttle valve. Next, turn the key in the ignition switch.

Problems with the EGR valve, malfunctions, elimination

Everything we have discussed so far occurs under the condition that the exhaust recirculation system is working perfectly. However, the system is not as reliable as we would like. Over time, exhaust gases are supplied to the combustion chamber in much larger volumes, which causes failures during acceleration, engine tripping, spark plugs, the appearance of carbon deposits on them and air leaks in the intake tract.

Soot in the EGR valve

The valve is removed only if one of these faults occurs:

The valve is stuck

It doesn’t matter in what position, but in any case it indicates the need for repairs. A huge amount of carbon deposits on the valve walls. Carbon deposits in the EGR system channels.

Carbon deposits in the EGR system channels

The EGR valve fails mainly due to low-quality fuel and oils - an increased content of heavy fractions leads to the formation of carbon deposits and this applies not only to the EGR valve, of course. Restoring the system, as a rule, is expensive and does not make sense at the mileage at which the valve has died for a long time.

Pump check

You can check whether the pump is working properly with your own hands - it’s easy. The first step is to determine the place where it is installed in the car (on the left under the passenger sofa). When you have access to the element, you can proceed to diagnostics. Someone on command must turn on the ignition for a few seconds. When the starter starts to function, the sound of the fuel pump will be heard. This indicates its serviceability. If there are no sounds, then the submersible pump is not receiving power. Or it has failed and requires replacement.

It happens that the pump is functioning, the Daewoo Nexia does not start, the starter is working normally. Then it’s worth checking whether voltage is coming to the submersible element. This is done using a multimeter. The ignition key is turned and held in the “ON” position for three seconds. If current is flowing, the multimeter will show it. Then check the resistance of the element. To do this, the multimeter is connected to the power contacts of the pump. This must be done if there are no signs of the mechanism operating when the engine starts. The measurements are compared with the passport data. If the numbers obtained are very different, most likely the fuel pump has burned out.

Video about breaking a key on a camshaft

All the listed faults are normal to start on the air or from a tug, then it works for some time, then everything starts from the beginning

same garbage, did you solve the problem? If yes, how please tell me

Hello, please help. Nexia 2007 16 valves 1.5 engine volume. My cylinder head gasket was burnt out, antifreeze went into the cylinder in the garage, removed the head, took it to grind it and put on a new gasket. Everything is back, the timing belt is all clear, everything is on the marks. I tried to start it, but it probably took about 3 hours and left it overnight. The next day, I unscrewed the spark plugs and looked for a spark in one spark plug; there was no spark; I replaced it and the car started, everything worked fine; I turned it off; it started again without any problems; then it went for a ride; it pulls; it runs great; no unnecessary noise; nothing unnecessary. Jackie Chan was on fire for me all the time. Well, then Jackie Chan goes out and my gas pedal just stops reacting (almost), if you press and release, press and release,... fast all the time then it still keeps the revs in one place for some time, if you just press and hold the revs are reset and it stalls, if you release the gas pedal it also stalls, but when it stalls it doesn’t start, sometimes it starts but mostly it doesn’t start, it seems to catch on and that’s all. It will stand there for an indefinite amount of time, it might stand overnight, maybe for several hours, maybe for a few minutes, and it starts up and works for a little while (I can drive 10 kilometers, sometimes a little more) and then it just starts to choke itself while moving. I looked at the spark, there is absolutely always a spark. Fuel is constantly supplied. The timing belt is on the marks. He has everything he needs to work, but he doesn’t want to work. I don’t know where to look anymore, tell me if anyone has any thoughts on this matter.

Disconnect the DA sensor, if it works, then replace it, and this also happens if there is condensation in the muffler. We drilled a hole and it got better.

It doesn't work well when it's cold, but it works well when it's hot, what's the reason?

My Rassvet Val Nexia 1.5 broke

Hello! Nexia usually always starts, but after turning off the car, for example, the headlights are left on, the trunk may be opened, the mafon is turned on, etc., after that we want to start it, but already turning the key goes empty, at this time the speedometer works but the starter does not turn, there is a spark, in what could be the reason? Nexia 2013, 8 valves, mileage no more than 20,000 thousand, it’s still new

Hello. I was driving along the highway and suddenly the Nexia starter stalled, the power is turning, there is a spark, I started looking at it, the timing belt is torn, I changed the belt, they put it on the mark, it won’t start, please tell me.

Is the spark plug at least wet?

Few people write about the speed sensor. If the speedometer needle begins to behave incorrectly, then later you may stall and not start. I parked the car myself in the evening, and thought about it from morning until lunch. Until it dawns on you, turn off the speed sensor. It started half-turn as usual. If it helps someone I will be glad!

Nail, the valve was bent by a hundred pounds. The verdict was on capital, or engine replacement.

Source

If the starter does not turn

In most cases, this symptom indicates a low battery. And if the battery was replaced with a new one several months ago, it is still worth checking it. Diagnostics can be performed using a multimeter. It is also a good idea to make sure that the high-voltage wires are in good condition and the terminals are not subject to corrosion. Next, you need to consider the faulty starter relay. It is located in the vehicle's distribution block. When the ignition is started, the element should click. Then you can check the starter itself. First, just lightly hit the body with something, then start the engine and listen. If the device makes noise during operation, then it should be replaced.

Why is the EGR valve needed in Daewoo Lanos?

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system is designed solely to reduce the nitrogen content in the exhaust gases. This is dealt with in different ways, but the most effective way to comply with environmental standards, according to manufacturers, remains a gas recycling system.

The meaning of using the USR system is simple: not all gases are sent immediately into the atmosphere, some of them are sent back to the combustion chamber in order to lower the combustion temperature of the mixture. And the lower the temperature, the lower the amount of nitrogen oxides in the exhaust. That's the whole task.

Scheme of operation of the gas recirculation system

The fight for the environment in itself does not cause protests from anyone. Another thing is that the recirculation system is not eternal, especially in Lanos engines, which have EGR installed in accordance with Euro-3 standards, and not Euro-2. In both engines, the service life of the USR valve is limited to 120-150 thousand, and for some it does not reach hundreds of thousands of mileage.

EGR valve operation diagram

How EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) works and does not work on Lanos

Diagram of operation of the EGR solenoid valve and vacuum valve.

The system works quite simply. Exhaust gases from the exhaust pipeline are partially supplied to the intake manifold, and their supply is regulated by either a vacuum-mechanical valve or a magnetic-electric USR valve. In the first case, the valve is practically not controlled by the engine management system, in the second it is completely controlled.

Euro-2 EGR valve on a Lanos engine

And a little theory. Installation of the valve, and indeed the entire USR system (according to the Opel model, by the way) should perform the following functions:

Dilute the fuel-air mixture with an inert gas without oxygen.
Limit the content of exhaust gases in the combustion chamber to 10%.
Due to this, the combustion temperature and pressure are reduced (since the combustion rate is lower).
Reduce fuel consumption.

EGR valve Euro-3

In practice, we get a slightly different result. Since the engine capacity of the Lanos is difficult to compare with the volumes of truck diesel engines and large gasoline engines, the disadvantages of using the system are much greater. Namely, the accumulation of soot and soot in the combustion chamber, on the valves and the piston crown, which leads to increased wear, high fuel consumption and engine overheating. In the most advanced cases, engine clogging with carbon deposits can lead to detonation.

Accepted Answers

-2

Hello! I have a similar problem. I bought a car for my wife, mileage 62t. I changed the timing belt, pump, contact group (after the first failure at starting, I read it on the form). Everything was fine - it started. Now after rain or any dampness it won’t start. I noticed that it starts when it’s warm in the cabin. Don't deliver early in the morning! It starts when the fuel pump relay clicks. Relay changed. The CG contacts were bridged. When not starting, there is no spark! After such dancing around the car, I remove the brand and wait for the interior to warm up. Starts up on the first push. Works smoothly. It's picking up speed. Doesn't give any errors! There is an error when driving “ignition slip”, I changed the wires and spark plugs, but the error still appears after a while. Another point: if you stomp on the gas pedal not even while moving, then when you reset you can hear the muffler “mumbling.”, and then it may throw an error. My wife drives carefully and the error rarely occurs. Where to dig how to start it!? My brain is already smoking))) Maybe a fuel pump or filter?

I had such a joke. from the 20th turn the starter engaged the engine. I thought it was a retractor - I changed it. Nothing changed. I realized that the starter will not turn on if the retractor is not working. Replaced bendex. No result. I removed the starter 10 times. everything works on the stand. The engine on the car does not catch, as if it does not reach the flywheel. I spat and bought a new starter. The result is that everything works great. I don't know what's wrong with the old starter. The riddle with the starter has not been solved, but I will solve it anyway (so it turns on completely) out of principle. It became very interesting.

Weaknesses of Daewoo Nexia:

Various sensors, which after several years of operation may show not entirely accurate information, or stop showing it at all;
High wear of shock absorbers, which are completely unsuitable for our roads;
A muffler that has a simply phenomenally poor service life;
The gearbox, although this is a problem for many cars, but on the Nexia you should start monitoring it already at a mileage of 150,000 kilometers.
Turn signal toggle switches that simply break suddenly, for no particular reason;
Corrosion, which, as already mentioned, can naturally “eat” your car if you don’t keep an eye on it.

Perhaps one of the most important shortcomings of the Daewoo Nexia is that it does not live up to expectations. The car looks very solid, which captivates inexperienced owners, and in the future they are simply disappointed. After all, they expect some kind of premium car, but in reality they only get a good foreign car from the last decade.

Metal quality

One of the weakest points of the Daewoo Nexia is the quality of the metal, which definitely should be better. For this reason, even a new car should be carefully treated with various compounds that are designed to help fight corrosion. This is especially true in big cities, where roads are sprinkled with various harmful compounds.

You should also keep an eye on various electrical appliances. In these cars, the wires wear out very quickly, and they withstand various external influences very poorly. Even components such as the ignition switch can fail precisely due to external factors. And, by the way, severe Russian frosts and the same powder on the road also have a very negative effect on all this. And more “open” parts, such as the clutch, can make you a frequent visitor to the service station, because such a breakdown can hardly be called minor, and this repair will need to be carried out immediately.

Chassis

I would like to highlight the shock absorbers as a separate point, as a sore spot of the Daewoo Nexia. The fact is that although the car was created primarily for bad Russian roads, it is difficult to call it reliable in this regard. For this reason, the suspension, shock absorbers, and all other components of this plan very quickly fail, letting the driver down at the most unexpected moment. In particular, factory springs begin to “crumble” after 50,000-60,000 kilometers, and if you miss this moment and do not make repairs, then further damage will be much more severe and expensive.

Problems with rust and paintwork

When purchasing a Daewoo Nexia, special attention should be paid to the body. Because he is not able to fight the salt that is sprinkled on the road. And problems begin even with paint, after several years of use. Surprisingly, when choosing a car, there is an opportunity to protect yourself, and a very unusual way - you need to choose a metallic color. Apparently, due to the nature of the paint, it is able to withstand much more than other types of color.

Disadvantages of Daewoo Nexia:

Door locks;
Electrical appliances;
Fog lights;
Equipment.

Door locks

In addition to problems with paint, you should prepare for the fact that you will be “tormented” by the wear and tear of the door lock cylinders, up to their complete failure. This will be especially noticeable on the trunk lock.

And the windshield can hardly be called reliable; small stones from under the wheels of oncoming cars will give it a less than marketable appearance in just three or four years, and may even affect visibility in the car.

Complex electrical

Although the electrics in the car work properly, they do not work for long. This is especially true for the instrument panel, which can simply fail at one moment due to a broken wire.

And in general, all elements of the car that use electricity quickly fail, including such key ones as the generator or starter. And being left with an open window, simply because the motor is not able to lift it back, can also be very frustrating.

Fog lights

I would like to make a separate point about fog lights, which experts generally advise not to turn on in damp conditions - they simply burst from unexpected exposure to cold water. A little strange, considering that fog appears just in wet weather.

Ease of configuration

The choice of equipment for this car certainly requires special attention. And if the characteristics do not change too much, then the variety of options is amazing.

In the cheapest configuration, the car will be equipped only with a radio and alarm system. There are no features that are now standard, such as electric lifts, power steering or air conditioning. Even the tachometer will be missing. Although, as the “stuffing” becomes more expensive, they will still appear in the car.

Thus, the maximum configuration will have all the “goodies” of a good foreign car - electric windows for all windows, air conditioning, heated seats, power steering, fog lights, and much more. Of course, you will have to pay extra for all this, and not the smallest amount.

On the other hand, if you look at the “rivals” of Nexia, and most often they put the domestic VAZ in opposition, it generally lacks some functions, even in expensive trim levels. Yes, and whether to buy a car with a set of options or not is everyone’s decision.

Checking engine sensors

Absolute pressure sensor under the hood of Lanos

If the electronic control unit (ECU) is fully operational, the wiring harness has been checked and no air leaks have been detected, but gaps remain, there is a possibility that the sensors may be producing incorrect data. In particular, this primarily concerns the absolute pressure sensor and the air temperature sensor.

Old and new corrugations with temperature sensor (DTV) assembly

The latter is located in the intake pipe, in the corrugation of the air filter. It measures the temperature of the air entering the manifold, transmits this data to the ECU, and the electronics determine the required amount of air and fuel to prepare the optimal mixture. The situation is similar with the absolute pressure sensor (DBP).

Air temperature sensor Lanos. How to check

If upon inspection it turns out that the sensor's ratings are not up to standard, it is better to replace it, although the public sometimes experiments and adds resistance to the sensor circuit to fool the electronic control unit. This does not lead to anything good, since it causes failures in other systems.

Checking the temperature sensor in the filter bellows

Checking the sensor is done using a multimeter and a regular thermometer. We measure the air temperature and measure the resistance of the sensor on a cold engine. The nominal values are as follows:

0-10 °C - 4.5-7.5 Ohm;
20-30 °C - 2-3 Ohm;
40 °C - 0.8-1.6 Ohm;
80 °C - 0.2-0.4 Ohm.

If the sensor readings do not match the temperature, replace it with a new one. The DTV article number for Lanos is 96183228. By default, when the sensor is not working, the ECU takes the air temperature to be +20 °C.

Rough road sensor Lanos

In addition, some trim levels of Daewoo Lanos could have a rough road sensor installed. It could be installed on the front pillar, and the sensor’s task was to inform the ECU about irregularities, so as not to confuse shocks and vibration with detonation, which is monitored, respectively, by the knock sensor.

In order not to change the ignition timing on every bump, the roughness sensor sends an impulse to the ECU, but it needs some time to adapt to a flat road, about 5-7 minutes of driving. During this time, dips and twitching may occur during acceleration.

Wiring diagrams

Using the following wiring diagram, you can determine the locations of connectors and ground contacts, which can cause interruptions in the operation of devices when they are loosened.

Electrical connectors are marked in yellow and begin with the letter X. Ground wires and body ground contacts are marked with blue dots and numbered.

Ground contacts

1 - in the central part of the steering column 2 - near the battery 3 - not used 4 - on the top of the engine cylinder block 5 - in the trunk 6 - under the driver's seat B - direct contact of the assembly housing with the car body.

Rail fuel pressure

One of the most common reasons for failure. Depending on the engine, the nominal pressure on the Lanos in front of the fuel rail should be at least 2.6 bar at idle speed. That is, 2.6 is the critical limit at which even a slightly clogged injector will no longer inject fuel in the required amount into the combustion chamber.

The pressure in the ramp should not be below normal

There are not many reasons for the pressure drop to the fuel rail, and all of them are easily checked and eliminated:

Low fuel pump performance.
Clogged fuel filter.
A dirty gas tank and a number of other reasons related to the supply of fuel from the tank to the fuel rail.

To check the fuel pressure with your own hands, it is enough to have an accurate pressure gauge with an error of no more than 0.1-0.15 bar or a device for measuring pressure. The device is easy to assemble yourself. To do this, you need several fuel hoses (about 70-80 cm in total), a tee with an internal diameter of 8 mm, clamps, several 8 mm fittings and any suitable tap.

Homemade device for measuring rail pressure

Check up to the fuel rail, the pressure that the fuel pump creates. Turn on the ignition and see what pressure the pump pumps before starting. The norm is 6-7 bar. If less, replace the fuel pump or eliminate the causes of low pressure in the fuel module.
Checking the pressure in the fuel rail. The nominal value is from 2.8 to 3.2 bar. After the pump is turned off, the pressure must be maintained. In any case, a deviation from the norm indicates a malfunction of either the pump or the fuel pressure regulator, or that the injectors do not hold pressure.
Checking the injectors without removing them from the engine. We connect the pressure gauge after the fuel rail and before the return line (drain circuit into the tank). After turning off the fuel pump, the injectors must maintain at least 4 bar at all times.

The check is carried out both at idle, only with the ignition on, and also while driving with a sharp increase in speed. Any discrepancies with the nominal readings of the pressure gauge will make it possible to draw a conclusion about a malfunction of the pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter.

Fuel module (1), Fuel pump (2), wiring harness for connecting the pump (3).