How to change the stove pipes on a VAZ 2109

Reasons for the release

The first step is to figure out why the coolant is being thrown out of the expansion tank.

Wear of CO elements. In particular, we are talking about pipes and connecting hoses. They are constantly exposed to high pressure and temperatures. Therefore, over time, their wear and tear is a completely natural phenomenon. As a result, antifreeze begins to be thrown out.
Low quality components. If natural wear and tear is typical for used cars and cooling systems that have been in operation for quite a long time, then when using low-quality components, even on a completely new or updated cooling system, serious problems can arise. An example is simple burrs on the neck of the expansion tank. Because of them, the lid does not fit tightly enough, which leads to a gap and the release of antifreeze.
Expansion tank. Alas, the quality of the plastic from which expansion tanks for the VAZ 2109 are made today leaves much to be desired. Because of it, the plastic simply bursts under high pressure.
Faulty engine. If the engine itself is not working correctly, the coolant may boil. This leads to damage to the thermostat, radiator, and pump.

From this we can conclude that the quality of the CO directly depends on the technical condition of the car and the quality of the components used.

Signs of coolant emission

It is important to understand that coolant can be thrown out not only through the expansion tank cap, but also inside the system. It is important to monitor the condition of the CO and identify signs of a leak in time.

Antifreeze evaporates very quickly, so traces of it are not always visible.

If coolant is released through the reservoir, puddles immediately form under the car.
If liquid enters the cabin due to a malfunction of the CO, this can be determined by the smell. It has a sweetish tint.
Antifreeze also often leaks into the engine system. Such a breakdown is determined by white smoke emanating through the exhaust pipe.
The most unpleasant and dangerous situation is the release of antifreeze into the engine crankcase. If this happens, a white emulsion will appear on the surface of the oil filler cap.
Periodically checking the space under the timing belt cover will determine whether the pump has failed. If yes, then you will find high humidity there.

Signs of boiling

If there are problems with the engine, antifreeze may simply boil in the CO. There is nothing good about this, so it is important to detect the malfunction in time. There are five main signs of coolant boiling:

The temperature gauge jumps to 130 degrees;
White foam appears at the filler neck;
The engine stops working properly;
The coolant level in the expansion tank rises sharply;
White smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.

What causes damage to the body of the “nine”

There is an opinion that Soviet cars are equipped with an “indestructible” body. It is impossible to say this one hundred percent, but it is also wrong to refute such a statement. Indeed, the body of the VAZ 2109, the diagram of which is presented in the article, is made to perfection, but over time, any quality will come to an end.

VAZ 2109 body geometry

Almost all car bodies older than 5-7 years need repair. And there is nothing surprising about this. The living conditions of recent years, the huge amount of harmful substances, the general deterioration of the environment - all this cannot have a positive effect. Difficult, almost extreme, modern operating conditions also cause a lot of harm.

As a result, the state of the metal surface becomes deplorable, the internal combustion engine and parts are sent for disassembly, and instead of a worn-out but close-to-the-heart car, a new car takes its place. All this can be avoided if you know the features of the body layout, understand the intricacies and carry out preventive maintenance in a timely manner.

Replacing pipes

The entire process of replacing pipes is divided into two stages:

Let's start with dismantling work.

Unscrew the expansion tank cap to allow air into the system.
Open the heater tap inside the passenger compartment by turning the control all the way to the right.
Remove the crankcase protection by unscrewing all the mounting bolts.
Prepare a container where you will drain the old coolant. It must be made of plastic with a volume of at least 10 liters. Choose a clean container if you want to refill this antifreeze.
Clean the surfaces near the drain plug on the cylinder block and radiator. This will prevent dirt from getting into the coolant drain container.
Place the container under the radiator drain, unscrew the cap and wait until the antifreeze comes out.
Drain the fluid from the cylinder block in the same way.
Wait until all the coolant has come out, then tighten the plugs.
Start working on the interior by unscrewing the dashboard fasteners and moving them to the side. Move the front seats as far back as possible. This way you will provide yourself with more or less comfortable conditions.
Unscrew the clamps from the coolant supply and return pipes from the heater tap. You will find it in the partition between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment.
Remove the rubber pipes. If they are difficult to remove, you can pull them to the sides or cut them with a knife. They are still being replaced. Due to the hot coolant, the rubber sticks to the metal fittings, which complicates their dismantling.
Be careful and careful, do not pull the tubes too hard. Otherwise, you risk damaging the connections of the fittings. And this will entail much more expensive repairs.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the valve from the engine compartment.
Using pliers or pliers, disconnect the holder from the heater tap drive rod.
Clean the faucet and blow out the inside of it with compressed air.
Sequentially remove all remaining pipes from the radiator and engine. Be sure to remember the sequence of their location so that there are no problems with reassembly.

"Folk" way

Folk craftsmen - these are brave and very desperate craftsmen - offer a much less labor-intensive method. The bottom line is that replacing the stove pipes (and the stove itself) is done without draining the coolant and without dismantling the instrument panel. The tools you will need are a set of screwdrivers, rags and a container (small) to drain the liquid from the pipes. In this case, replacing the heater radiator pipes is carried out according to the following scheme:

Removing the terminals from the battery
Close the heater tap
We remove the right front seat (to make it easier to do the work)
We unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard on the right side, and one screw located in the glove compartment, then, pulling the dashboard towards you, we place a wooden block
Now there is a gap on the side of the passenger seat and you can get to the pipes and to the heater radiator itself
Lay a rag on the floor of the cabin and prepare a container to collect the coolant
Which will spill from the radiator and pipes
We loosen the clamps of the pipes (photo above) and carefully, one by one, remove them from the radiator, replacing the container. 200 - 300 grams of coolant will drain into it
Replace the pipes with new ones, and change the clamps, just in case.
If necessary, unscrew the three bolts that secure the radiator to the stove and pull it down to the right
We install the pipes and the new radiator in the reverse order.

Stove VAZ 2109

The design of a car heater is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. The base consists of two plastic casings connected by brackets. They have a heating radiator installed. Air is supplied through the radiator to the car interior by a fan.

The electric motor is attached to the fan casings. The coolant passes through the heater core thanks to a pump. A faucet is also connected to the cooling system. Its connection occurs through rubber hoses. There are two more pairs of pipes in the housing. The faucet valve has a hole through which coolant flows. A special valve lever controls air heating. Three knobs on the instrument panel control the heater. With their help, the faucet and the stove damper are opened or closed. If the tap is open, heated coolant circulates in the heating system. Closed - cold air blows.

Article: 2108-81012, additional articles: 06-81-109bM, 2108-8101200-20

Order code: 160259

Buy with this product
show more

Buy analogues

Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-21092 drawings

» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2109-9/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-56/#part31617″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2109-9/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-55/#part31589″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system

Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-21152 drawings
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2115-65/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-45/#part52314″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2115-65/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-44/#part52292″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-21136 drawings
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/otopitel__11__13__15_-121/#part1668600″>Heater outlet hose frontVentilation and heating / Heater (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/otopitel-120/#part1668571″>Front supply hoseVentilation and heating / Heater
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/otopitel-120/#part1668569″>Heater outlet hose frontVentilation and heating / Heater
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya__11__13__15_-116/#part1668497″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/otopitel__11__13__15_-121/#part1668602″>Front supply hoseVentilation and heating / Heater (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2113-648/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-115/#part1668463″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-21082 drawings
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2108-18/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-41/#part27126″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2108-18/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-40/#part27104″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-210992 drawings
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_21099-79/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-56/#part35556″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_21099-79/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-55/#part35528″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-21146 drawings
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya__11__13__15_-116/#part1668497″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/otopitel__11__13__15_-121/#part1668602″>Front supply hoseVentilation and heating / Heater (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/sistema_ventilyacii_i_otopleniya-115/#part1668463″>Rear supply hoseVentilation and heating / Ventilation and heating system
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/otopitel__11__13__15_-121/#part1668600″>Heater outlet hose frontVentilation and heating / Heater (11, 13, 15)
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/otopitel-120/#part1668571″>Front supply hoseVentilation and heating / Heater
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2114-647/otopitel-120/#part1668569″>Heater outlet hose frontVentilation and heating / Heater
Passenger cars / VAZ / VAZ-2120 “Nadezhda”1 drawing
» href=»/catalog/vaz-3/legkovye_avtomobili-30/vaz_2120__nadejda_-245/otopitel-42/#part55345″>Heater outlet hose frontVentilation and heating / Heater

There are no reviews for this product yet.

Self-replacement

Like most repairs, this procedure is carried out on an overpass. Replacement requires the following tools:

Container for draining coolant;
Classic set of wrenches and screwdrivers;
Sealant;
WD – 40;
New faucet with a set of rubber gaskets.

1. Display the VAZ 2109 car;
2. Place the prepared empty container under the motor and, opening the drain hole, allow the coolant to drain;
3. Next, you need to unscrew the pipes running from the engine to the heater. To do this, just loosen the fastening clamps. It happens that they do not give in, then it makes sense to use a “bucket” and clean the threads of the crane bolts;
4. Remove the pipes and drain the remaining antifreeze;
5. Remove the side trim of the dashboard in the car interior. Here, too, unscrew the pipes;
6. Then, using a 10mm wrench, loosen and unscrew the faucet fastening nuts. It's under the car. Continue working inside the car again and tighten the tap on the passenger seat side. Then remove the clamp. Disconnect the control cable;
7. The next stage is the installation of a new tap. First of all, it must be connected to the control cable. Now put the spring clip in place. Tighten the fasteners. When installing pipes, use sealant.

Having finished installing the new heater part, you need to pour coolant into the system and check how the replacement went as a whole.

Classic way

It is worth noting right away that it is quite labor-intensive and will take quite a lot of time. You will need a lot of patience and care (as mentioned above). The most difficult part is removing the instrument panel and installing it, as it is much more difficult to get the instrument panel into place correctly.

Tool

Coolant drain container
Screwdriver Set
Head with a wrench to unscrew the steering wheel

Let's start in order:

Removing the terminals from the battery
With the heater tap open, drain the coolant by unscrewing the drain plugs located on the radiator and cylinder block (into a substitute container)
Removing the decorative trim from the steering wheel
We unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel so that its end is flush with the end of the steering column shaft.
The steering wheel is seated very tightly on the shaft splines, so for safety reasons it is not recommended to completely unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel: with a sharp impact, it will jump off the splines and can cause injury
Be sure to mark the location of the steering wheel in relation to the shaft
Knock the steering wheel off the shaft splines with sharp blows of your hand.
Now you can finally unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel
Unscrew the six screws securing the lower steering column casing
Remove the lower casing from the steering column, as well as the lining of the ignition switch (lock)
Then remove the upper casing from the steering column
Loosen the bolt securing the base under the steering switches
We remove the base from the shaft, disconnect the blocks with wires (there are two of them) from the contacts of the car horn
Now we disconnect the block with wiring from the windshield wiper and washer switch lever
It is recommended to mark the terminals with wiring before disconnecting. This will help you avoid confusion during assembly and save time.
Disconnect the block with wiring from the headlight and turn signal switch lever
Pull the carburetor choke control handle (aka “choke”) towards you so that the draft comes out, remove the handle from it
Unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard console trim
Removing the cover from the console
Remove the cigarette lighter from the socket
We take out the ashtray from the nest by pressing on the plate to extinguish cigarettes
Remove the handle that switches the heater fan
Then we remove the three knobs that control the stove and hook them with a screwdriver
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heater fan switch, located under the heater control panel
Disconnect two wires from the contacts of the lamp illuminating the heater control panel
Remove the headlight direction adjustment handle, just pull it towards you
Now remove the instrument cluster lighting switch knob
Unscrew the nut securing the instrument lighting switch
Unscrew the nut securing the headlight hydraulic corrector
We push the hydraulic corrector for headlights and the instrument lighting switch inside the panel
Remove the side nozzles located on both sides of the dashboard using a screwdriver
Unscrew one screw securing the trim on both sides of the dashboard
Using a screwdriver, use a screwdriver to remove the exterior lighting switch.
Disconnect the block with wires from the switch. Push the block inside the dashboard
We use a screwdriver and remove the socket intended for radio equipment. If you have radio equipment installed on your VAZ 2109, remove it first
We remove radio equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Then unscrew the screw securing the trim to the dashboard
We insert two screwdrivers so that we can bend the plastic latches
Raising the dashboard trim
Disconnect the wiring harness from the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the block for lighting the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the lamp illuminating the hazard warning switch
We disconnect the block with wiring from the hazard warning switch, and finally remove the dashboard trim
Gently press down and remove the speaker cover located on the left side of the dashboard. Be careful - latches break easily
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heated glass switch
Remove the block from the rear fog lamp switch
Unscrew the two screws securing the instrument cluster
We take out the instrument cluster from the dashboard, unscrew the nut securing the cable from the speedometer and disconnect it

Modernization of the VAZ 2109 heater

Those who like to “tinker” with cars and experiment can carry out a small modernization of the crane in the old “old-fashioned” way. This will require a ball valve with an angled handle. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. Drain the coolant;
2. Unscrew the plug in the tap and pull out the valve. It won't be useful anymore.
3. A 3-kopeck USSR coin will be suitable as a new plug. It will need to be inserted into the “glass”;
4. Screw in the plug;
5. Under the hood, cut off the heater pipe and install a water tap;
6. Tighten the clamps on both sides;
7. Pour in antifreeze;
8. Check the system.

Examination

If there is no inspection hole in the garage, then the car must be placed on an overpass. In bad weather conditions, it is still better to drive it into the garage. Raise it higher with a jack and place reliable supports under each part of the machine.

Note: Never leave your vehicle on a jack for long periods of time.

To work you will need:

tool set;
a lamp with a protective cap - in case of a fall or impact, the lamp will not break, and the fragments will not cause injury;
antifreeze for topping up.

First you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Lay a sheet of plywood or thick cardboard on the floor.
It is necessary to start the inspection from the engine compartment and first make sure that the temperature of the cooling radiator and the engine has reached the ambient temperature.

Check the connections of the pipes on the outlet and inlet fittings of the radiator.
The connections to the thermostat at the expansion tank are also carefully checked.

Note: check with the palm of your hand, running at the bottom of the connections. You need to determine whether liquid is accumulating.

Tighten the clamps, but do not tighten them too much, as you can damage the pipe itself if you overtighten the clamp.
Then lie down on the prepared cardboard at the bottom of the car under the engine and check the pipe, as well as the suitable pipe of the water pump.

Note. Don’t forget to check the pipes that go to the interior heating system.

Then continue checking under the hood.
Rubber tubes suitable for the carburetor are carefully checked.
Don’t forget to check the tightness of the radiator drain plug and coolant temperature sensor.
After completing the inspection, make sure that all inspected connections are tight.
Make a conclusion about the condition of the pipes.

Replacement

If at least one of the pipes is in doubt, the entire cooling system set must be replaced.

Dismantling

First of all, you need to open the cap from the expansion tank. This must be done so that the cooling system has access to air.
Open the interior heating valve, turn the lever to the right until it stops.
Remove the crankcase protection, first unscrew the fastening bolts.

Note. To drain antifreeze from the radiator and engine, you need to prepare a container. It must be plastic or metal. It is better to use an old 10 liter plastic canister. To do this, cut off the top with a sharp knife. With such a container it will then be easier to backfill the radiator.

Clean the area near the radiator drain plug and cylinder block well so that dirty residues do not get into the drained antifreeze.
First place the prepared container under the radiator drain plug.
Open it and wait for everything to drain.
Do the same work under the cylinder block.
Wait for the antifreeze to drain completely, then tighten both plugs - on the radiator and the block.

Note. The replacement must begin from the interior. To make repairs easier, you need to unscrew the instrument panel fastenings and move them to the side. The front seats - passenger, driver, must be moved to the farthest position towards the rear seats.

Unscrew the clamps securing the antifreeze supply and return pipes from the heating tap. It is located in the partition between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.
Remove the rubber pipes if they are difficult to turn a little in different directions. Since they will be replaced, then you need to cut them lengthwise with a sharp knife. During operation, hot antifreeze causes the pipes to stick to the metal fittings. Therefore, it can be difficult to remove them, even with great effort.

Note. If you pull too hard, you can damage the metal connections of the fittings, which will lead to unpredictable consequences. Therefore, this work requires patience and attention. The same work of removing the pipes must be done under the hood. Unscrew the nuts that secure the heating valve.

Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the valve from the engine compartment.
Use pliers to disconnect the holder from the heating tap drive rod.
The tap needs to be cleaned and the inside needs to be blown out with a pump.
Consistently remove all other pipes from the engine and radiator.

Note. You should remember the sequence of their removal so that you can easily install new pipes later.

Installation

Before installing them you should:

Clean all connections. To do this, carefully brush all surfaces around the circumference of each fitting with a metal brush. Wipe with a rag after cleaning. Make sure it is clean, as small particles remaining can cause blockages in the cooling system.

Note: go through all the edges of the clamps with a small file, since when tightening the rubber pipes with clamps, the sharp edges can cut through them.

Before installation, place the clamps on the pipes in a free position. If the pipes do not fit well onto the fittings, then lubricate the edges of the fitting with liquid soap.
Carefully pull the pipe, try to be even in diameter, without distortions.
After installing the pipe in place, make sure that it fits tightly to the installation sites. Only after this should the clamps be tightened.

CONSEQUENCES

This seemingly simple situation, like a burst radiator hose, poses a serious threat to the engine. When coolant leaks, the engine temperature instantly rises, which is associated with loss of cooling of the cylinders, where the temperature reaches more than 2000 degrees Celsius.

The consequences of overheating may result in a major overhaul of the engine with the replacement of today's expensive parts

Therefore, the condition of the rubber of the cooling system must be given increased attention.

CAUSES

Car operating experience shows that 50% of drivers are indifferent to dripping or fogging of the cooling hoses, constantly adding fluid from the expansion tank. Danger can arise for several reasons. This could be fatigue wear, which is natural during many years of use, an untightened or faulty clamp, or a pinched clamp, which is actually even more dangerous.

A pinched clamp cuts the first layer of the hose, thereby compromising its integrity; when a sudden rupture occurs, only the rubber itself knows. A burst radiator pipe will make itself known by an increase in temperature on the instrument panel or by abundant steam escaping from under the hood of the car. In such a situation, it is definitely necessary to turn off the engine and do not start it until the malfunction is eliminated.

ADVICE FROM EXPERIENCED DRIVERS

In 90% of cases it bursts under the clamp; if you cut off the damaged area, it can still be put in place with a certain interference. As a last resort, you can remove the radiator mounts, thereby increasing the length of the pipe, and secure the radiator itself using any available means. For example, a useful tip is to not fully screw the bolt that fastened the radiator into place, and place a wire tie between it and the “ear” of the radiator, which will make it immobile.

If the radiator pipe has already been cut before, it will be clearly short when cut again. In this case, you can wrap a layer of rubber under the hose, put the damaged pipe back in place, and cover the rubber layer on top with a tin strip, say, from a beer or juice can.

Place a clamp on top, and even if after this there is partial digging, you will nevertheless be able to get to the house or the nearest workshop. If the pipe did not burst, but was torn out of place, then either the clamp was faulty or not tightened, or it was due to gases entering the cooling system. This is the most severe case and you will have to use the services of a tow truck, since most likely the head gasket has broken (provided that the expansion tank cap valve is in working order).

For new cars, the problem of a burst hose is not so pressing, since new hoses serve without problems for at least three years, and there is a reason to replace all pipes at once on cars with sufficient mileage. It is not always possible to find an original radiator pipe for replacement, but the range produced by the domestic auto industry is so large that you can choose a close analogue.

CAR OWNER REVIEW

I agree with the author of the article that you can always find a way out of the current situation, which is greatly facilitated by the advice of experienced motorists. People share their experiences, describe unusual situations that may be useful to other drivers on the road. I also wanted to share my experience, or rather, how I managed to get out of a similar situation, based on previously read articles on this topic.

On the way to the dacha, the radiator pipe burst. Remembering from what you read earlier that you can increase the length of a cut hose by cutting it in half and inserting a piece of tube of suitable diameter. There was a plastic tube in the machine, prepared for just the drilled well. They cut off the required piece from it (you can cut it with a simple knife), cut the broken end of the hose in half, cut the broken end, and inserted a piece of plastic tube.

Everything was clamped with clamps and assembled in place. The connection turned out to be strong and reliable. The old hose always rubbed against the valve cover, but the homemade one now doesn’t touch the cover at all, so is it necessary to replace it with a new one? Maybe this will be a new way out of the situation for some, and for others it will refresh something forgotten.

Good luck to you and see you soon on the pages of the RtiIvaz.ru blog!

You can also familiarize yourself with other materials on pipes:

How to check the condition of the VAZ-2109 pipes

Ideally, an inspection hole is needed to inspect the machine. In a garage this is not always possible, so craftsmen came up with another way out of the situation - they installed the VAZ-2109 on an overpass. You will also need a powerful jack; the car is placed on reliable supports.

To inspect the condition of the VAZ-2109 cooling system, stock up on the following tools:

a lighting fixture with a protective cap that prevents injury from fragments of a broken lamp in case it falls;
antifreeze to top up the fluid in the expansion tank to the maximum level.

Follow the step-by-step instructions and the test will be completed without any difficulties:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Lay plywood or a thick sheet of cardboard on the flooring.
First inspect the engine compartment, it is important to understand that the temperature of the cooling radiator and engine is equal to the air temperature.
Evaluate the tightness of the connections of the pipes on the fittings that approach and extend from the radiator.
The fit of the expansion component to the thermostat must also be carefully checked and felt by running your palm along the bottom of the connections. If the tightness leaves much to be desired, liquid is released.
Tighten the clamps properly, but do not over-tighten, otherwise you may damage the pipe.
Lie down on the cardboard placed under the VAZ-2109 and inspect the pipe along with the incoming pipe of the water pump. The hoses responsible for the interior heating system are also important.
Pay attention to the pipes under the hood.
Do not go past the rubber channels adjacent to the carburetor.
Tighten the radiator drain plug and antifreeze temperature gauge securely.

Dismantling the worn-out cooling system of the VAZ-2109

If the coolant hoses are not in perfect condition, you will have to replace not only one worn component, but the entire system.

To install new parts, you need to dismantle the old ones.

Do-it-yourself dismantling of the cooling system consists of the following steps:

Remove the cap from the expansion tank.
Unscrew the heating valve inside the VAZ-2109, rotate the lever clockwise until it hits the end point.
Remove the crankcase protective part by carefully unscrewing the fasteners.
The coolant is drained into a prepared container with a volume of up to 8 liters. To do this, it is convenient to use a metal canister - it is easiest to drain antifreeze from it back into the VAZ-2109. Clean the area near the radiator drain plug and cylinder block, making sure that no dirt gets into the antifreeze. Place the container under the radiator.
When the antifreeze is drained, tighten the plugs located on the radiator and housing.
Replacing cooling pipes in a VAZ-2109 also involves dismantling work inside the cabin. Unscrew the bolts securing the instrument panel, get rid of the passenger and driver's seats - you can move them as far back as possible.
Disconnect the clamps connecting the transmission tubes and provided for filling new antifreeze from the heater tap. It is located between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.
If they are pulled out, remove the rubber pipes by turning them on different sides. The parts have to be replaced, so they need to be trimmed with a sharp knife. Do not pull with force, otherwise you may damage the metal fixation of the fittings.
Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the valve located in the engine compartment.
Using pliers, release the holder from the heater tap drive rod.
Clean the faucet and blow out the inside with a pump.
Remove the pipes gradually, you need to dismantle everything coming from the engine and radiator. Remember how they were fixed - at the stage of installing new components, this will help to install them back quickly and correctly.

VESKO-TRANS.RU

AutoNews / Reviews / Tests

How to change pipes on a VAZ 2109

Replacing stove
pipes on
a VAZ 2109
is a labor-intensive task that requires time, patience and some knowledge about its structure, but it saves you money. Our instructions will help you cope with this task yourself.

Changing
heater
pipes on the engine side takes no more than an hour.
This is if you don't rush. It took me a little less. I will briefly describe the replacement of stove
pipes under the hood. For those who have a carb, I advise you to remove the air filter housing, the work is much easier.

Lada 2109

TURBO MIGRANT