9 main reasons why the stove on a VAZ-2114 does not work and how to fix the problem

Drivers of old Russian cars that are not equipped with air conditioning use a cabin heater not only in winter, but also during rain. High humidity condenses on the windshield, reducing the driver's visibility. If the stove on a VAZ-2114 does not work, then the reason is not necessarily related to a breakdown of the vehicle’s components. In most cases, you can solve the problem yourself.

Heater fan diagram for VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113.

And so, here is a list of all components of the scheme:

  1. Mounting block (aka fuse block).
  2. Egnition lock.
  3. Ignition switch relief relay.
  4. Heater fan speed switch.
  5. Additional resistors.
  6. Stove motor.
  7. Rear window heating switch with warning lamp.
  8. Rear window heating element.

The scheme works as follows. When you turn the key in the ignition switch (2), its unloading relay (3) is turned on. The unloading relay supplies power to fuse f7 in the mounting block (1). After the fuse, power goes to the rear window heating switch (7) and the fan speed switch (4), which distributes which of the resistors (5) the power will go to next. Output 1 from the switch (4) corresponds to the slowest blowing speed, and output 3 goes directly to the heater motor (6), i.e. highest blowing speed.

Elimination of electrical circuit defects

If, when you turn on the heating by turning the handle, the stove does not work and you cannot hear the electric motor running, then first of all the fuse located in the control circuit is checked.

To check its integrity, you need to look into the engine compartment. There is a mounting block in the niche under the windshield. The fuse responsible for the operation of the fan motor is marked F7 and has a rating of 20A.

By replacing it with a similar one, the performance of the engine is checked. If this procedure is not successful, you need to check the contact relay. When the on-board network is turned on, it experiences significant loads. To reduce them, contact relays are used. The same ones are installed in the heater circuit. When the relay is faulty, the fan does not turn on every time, especially when the engine is cold.

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The reason may be problems with the contact block. The contact connectors are located in the engine compartment and are exposed to high humidity. Therefore, they are intensively oxidized, this leads to a lack of contact, so the fan may stop working.

The electrical circuit can be restored by disconnecting the terminals and then cleaning the terminals. But if there is severe corrosion, the contacts break, and then the contact group needs to be replaced.

The next part that can affect the operation of the furnace is the switch. The fan speed setting is set by a switch. The internal mechanism includes contacts that wear out over time. Repair is usually impractical; it is easier to replace the switch with a new one.

The resistor included in the control circuit regulates low and medium speeds. If, when moving the handle to the extreme right position, the engine runs at maximum speed, then the reason is in the resistor and it must be replaced.

The last element of the electrical circuit is the electric motor itself with an impeller that supplies air. It refuses to work if the insulating layer of varnish burns through and an interturn short circuit occurs. Previously we used motor rewinding services. But today it is practically not used, so you will have to purchase a new motor.

Reasons why the VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113 heater motor does not work.

The reasons why a fresh flow of cold air in summer or a hot stream in winter does not come from the air ducts of your VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 can be of two types:

Let's look at them in more detail.

Mechanical reasons why the VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113 heater fan does not work.

First of all, mechanical reasons include clogging of the air duct.

As you can see in the photo, leaves, branches and other debris get under the casing and clog the air duct of the heater motor. Debris can get into the section with the blades itself and jam the stove fan. Usually before this, a whistle or grinding noise is heard from under the soot space.

Mechanical reasons for the inoperability of the stove motor include jamming of the blades due to improper installation of the stove fan housing. When removing the stove motor, the latches securing the two parts of the housing are often damaged. And if these parts are not firmly fixed to each other, then there will be a gap between them and the air flow that should go into the cabin will fall into this gap. Also, parts of the housing may generally jam the motor blades, then it will not spin at all.

Problems with the heater fan from the electrical part.

In this section, we will consider the circuit to the VAZ heater fan by components.

Fuse.

Let's follow the scheme given at the beginning of the post. If your heater fan does not work together with the heated rear window, then the problem is 100% in the fuse. Check fuse f7 in the mounting block , if it is ok, then use a multimeter to see if the plus is coming to it from the ignition switch unloading relay. To do this, with the ignition on, place one multimeter probe on the fuse and the other on the car body. If everything is in order, look at the circuit from the fuse to the speed switch and the heating switch.

Diagnostics

The primary task is to identify the cause of the breakdown and assess your own capabilities in a specific situation.

Let's start with something simple and move on to something more complex:

  1. We check the fuse (F-7 with a voltage of 30 A), which is responsible not only for the heating system, but also for the operation of: the cigarette lighter, heated mirrors, glove compartment lights, and headlight washers. Therefore, when this fuse blows, all of the above devices refuse to work. If it is working, we move further along the chain.
  2. Turn on the car's ignition and switch the speed control to positions 1, 2, 3 in order. If the fan does not work in any of these positions, we move on.
      If the electric motor does not show signs of life in the first and second positions of the speed switch, but starts working in the third position (the fan is powered at the first and second speeds through a resistor, and at the third speed the current flows directly to the electric motor), the problem lies in the resistor or in the motor itself. switch
  3. If the heater motor turns on after the car engine has warmed up, the problem is a faulty ignition relay. Solved by replacing the relay.
  4. If the heater motor refuses to work in any mode, there remains one malfunction - the heater motor itself.

The process of dismantling the fan motor

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For the final verdict, let’s apply “+” directly to the motor by removing the positive wire terminal from the motor. If the motor does not come to life, the last thing you can try is to try to clean the place under the ground mount on the electric motor. Often this place oxidizes and the contact weakens.

Stove design

When cold air begins to escape from the stove or a leak forms in the device, you must immediately begin work to identify and eliminate the malfunction. To avoid any difficulties when carrying out prevention and repair, it is recommended to study the design features of this unit. The interior heating device consists of the following elements:

  • Radiator;
  • Pipes designed to ensure fluid circulation in the mechanism;
  • The tap required to control the intensity of liquid circulation;
  • Special dampers for regulating air flows;
  • Electrically powered fan;
  • Air supply system to the cabin.

During normal operation of all components, the heated air mass is distributed throughout the system and supplied to the cabin in the desired direction.

What does the heating system consist of?

Main details:

  1. Faucet.
  2. Radiator.
  3. Fan.
  4. A special resistor that controls the power of the fan motor.
  5. Dampers through which air is supplied to the cabin.
  6. Optimal power position switch.

When the system is working properly, coolant enters the heater radiator through the heater tap. The driver controls the temperature of the air entering the cabin independently when he opens and closes this same tap. Heat is created by the coolant that reaches the radiator. When the engine is hot, the coolant temperature rises to 95 degrees!

The Samar stove has three operating modes. The fan speed depends on them and is controlled by the driver independently via a position switch. Depending on the position of the tap we already know, cold or warm air blows into the cabin. The air flow is directed by dampers. The oven damper is adjusted manually.

Causes of malfunction

As mentioned earlier, failure of the heating system can be due to a number of reasons:

  • Electric motor malfunction;
  • Insufficient amount of antifreeze in the system;
  • Radiator failure;
  • Faulty heating tap;
  • Broken thermostat;
  • Burnt-out BC gasket;
  • Reducing pressure inside the system;
  • Sometimes the radiator gets clogged;
  • An air lock has formed.

After listing all possible types of faults, you should consider the main ones separately in order to better study the problems that are most likely to occur.

Thermostat

First of all, you need to start the motor and check the operation of the fan in each available mode. If no extraneous noise occurs during rotation, you will have to begin repairs. A broken thermostat is one of the most common problems that arise during the operation of a heating system. In this case, the coolant circulating through the circuit cannot reach the optimal temperature. Most often the stove fails for this reason.

Broken tap

The heating system often does not work precisely because the tap is faulty. Sometimes this element simply does not open all the way. This may be due to the following reasons:

  • The faucet has become completely unusable and therefore must be replaced immediately;
  • The attachment is not functioning properly due to the heater cable located near the pedal assembly not being properly secured or reshaped. To eliminate such

Blown cylinder head gasket

Ineffective operation of the stove may occur due to a burnt-out cylinder head gasket. The cause can be determined by certain signs:

  • the coolant smells like a mixture of gasoline and exhaust gases;
  • the smell of antifreeze appears in the engine oil;
  • White thick smoke comes out of the muffler.

The appearance of white smoke cannot go unnoticed, so when this sign appears, you need to check and replace the gasket.

The electric motor is actively involved in the operation of the stove; it often breaks down and burns out. Replacing it with a new element is not in all cases the only solution to the problem. There is a possibility that the motor has not burned out, then it can be repaired. You need to check all operating modes of the stove and make sure that the ignition relay is working.

In order to avoid problems with the stove in the future, you need to periodically disassemble and clean the radiator and pipes, change the filter on time, add antifreeze, securely fix the tap, and then your stove will reliably delight you with warmth.

What to do if the VAZ-2114 stove stops working? The stove and its faucet

A malfunction or poor operation of the interior heater can be caused by the heater tap (if it does not open all the way). How to solve this problem? First, lift the faucet cable. You need to bend it from the accelerator side. To see how tight it is, you can pull it towards you with pliers. If the faucet does not open, it is most likely oxidized. In this case, we change it entirely.

A clogged heater radiator can also cause the heater to not work. Here you need to take this part out and thoroughly blow it with a vacuum cleaner.

Replacement

Replacing a failed unit is not difficult. Follow certain rules and sequence of your actions to achieve the desired result.

  1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Lift the hood and in the engine compartment, remove all the mounting bolts that hold the plastic trim.
  3. For now, the overlay can be moved to the side so that it does not interfere with work.
  4. Remove the rubber seal, which also has its place in the engine compartment.
  5. Remove the protective cover from your heater motor. So you have reached the desired object and can begin replacing.
  6. On the sides of the motor are two bolts that hold your fan in place.
  7. Now go into the interior and remove the driver's side panel. There is a positive plug located there, which must be disconnected.
  8. Next, look for the negative wire. It is held on by one nut, which must be unscrewed.
  9. The disconnected wires are inserted into the hole in the body of your car, passing through the rubber seal.
  10. Remove the damaged motor. To do this, you need to turn it and pull it out through the right side.

Dismantling the fan motor

Follow the reassembly sequence strictly to avoid mistakes that could lead to even more serious problems.

As you can see, removing the device is not difficult. Having studied the condition of the fan motor, we can draw a conclusion regarding the need to replace it. Sometimes car owners get by with simply repairing brushes or replacing fuses.

Price issue

We advise you to choose a high-quality motor for replacement so that later there are no problems with its performance.

The price depends on whether you buy the motor complete with housing or separately.

The motor itself will cost you about 500 rubles, and for the assembled device you will have to pay about 1000 rubles. Which option is preferable for you, decide for yourself.

water pump

It also happens that the pump is unable to create the necessary pressure in the system. This happens when the heater does not heat up at idle, but functions only at speed. Such signs may indicate a low level of coolant in the system. Most often, motorists install an aluminum pump instead of a standard one. Recently, a lot of fakes have appeared in stores, so be very careful when choosing. To be sure, ask the seller for the certificate included with this batch of products. By the way, some craftsmen install an additional electric pump from a GAZelle.

Coolant level

As for the low level of antifreeze, here things are much simpler. If the antifreeze level is not at the maximum level (and this should not be the case in winter), add coolant slightly above the MAX mark.

Sometimes the coolant may smell like gasoline. If so, you most likely have a blown head gasket. In this case, it needs to be replaced. It is inexpensive, and the replacement itself will not take more than 10 minutes of your time. The gasket itself serves in different ways - from 10 to 40 thousand kilometers, depending on the manufacturer and the operation of the car.

If the stove does not work, the VAZ-2114 needs to be checked for clogging of the cabin filter. It comes off very easily. The service life of this element is about 10-15 thousand kilometers. If you have not changed it during this period, most likely the reason lies in a clogged filter.

FAULTY THERMOSTAT

With the thermostat not working, the coolant circulates in a large circle, while bypassing the small circle. The problem of a faulty thermostat is solved radically. It needs to be replaced with a new one. Many drivers, knowing about the low quality of their native thermostats, do not wait for it to fail and replace it with an imported analogue. Thermostats “Vernet”, “WAHLER” and “GATES” have proven themselves well.

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese models. They use low-quality steel, which looks like stainless steel. Such a device will not last long.

  1. Before starting work, you must drain the antifreeze. To do this, remove the protective cover. Place a container for antifreeze under the drain hole and unscrew the lid. Be careful. If you have just arrived, the liquid may be heated to 70 degrees or higher. Don't get burned. And best of all, let the engine cool down. And one more small note. Cover the generator to prevent liquid from getting into it. To do this, you can make a simple device from a plastic bottle.


    When you are sure that the coolant flows strictly into the placed container, you can unscrew the cap on the expansion tank. Wait until all the antifreeze drains out, close the drain caps on the radiator and expansion tank.

  2. Now we will get to the culprit of the cold stove. First you have to remove the air filter. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws and loosen the clamp that holds it.
  3. Loosen the two clamps connecting the hoses to the thermostat and remove the screws holding the thermostat. Now you can remove it.
  4. You definitely need to clean the mirror with a stationery or other knife and wipe it with a rag.

Installing a new thermostat is done in the reverse order.

  1. The new thermostat is installed in its place and secured with screws.
  2. The hoses are connected and secured with their own clamps. But before putting on and securing the hoses, they must be checked for serviceability. If they are worn out, it is recommended to replace them.
  3. Before adding antifreeze, check the drain cap on the radiator and expansion tank to make sure they are closed.
  4. Remove the pipe on the throttle body heating.
  5. Now you can fill the coolant into the expansion tank, slightly above the level.
  6. By pressing on the nozzle, you expel excess air from it, but do not forget to place a dish under the hose. Antifreeze will leak into it. Secure the pipe in place with clamps, pour the leaked liquid back into the tank, and close the lid.
  7. Install the air filter and secure the protective cover.


New thermostat
Here are a few more reasons why the fan does not work:

  • Air in the radiator can cause the engine to overheat and the cooler not to turn on. To get rid of air pockets, you can simply remove the pipe from the throttle body, as you did when you changed the thermostat.
  • A clogged radiator also leads to similar consequences. Therefore, the radiator grille must be blown out using a compressor or pump.
  • The operation of the heater fan can be affected by low antifreeze levels. This is easy to check. If the coolant level in the expansion tank is significantly below the mark, it must be topped up.

Ignition relay

If the stove “glitches” from time to time (it turns on only when the engine is warm), then the problem is in the ignition relay. It also happens that the fan does not work due to poor contact in the mounting block. Oxidized or poor contact, along with fuses, is a very common problem when operating a heater. Here we need to move the block of wires that go to the block a little or check the quality of the contacts.

The fan also breaks through the resistor. This is easy to understand - the stove will turn on only in the 3rd position of the lever. In this case, we change the additional resistor completely. So, we found out why the VAZ-2114 stove does not work.

HEATER RESISTOR

A faulty heater resistor is another reason for the fan not working, and, accordingly, for the fact that the VAZ 2115 heater does not work , and on other AVTOVAZ models. You can check its performance using an ohmmeter.

The resistor may fail for the following reasons:

  • Overload created by a constantly working stove;
  • Unsatisfactory quality of the resistor itself;
  • Wiring fault;
  • Incorrect type of resistor.

The resistor is connected to both the fan and the gearbox, so its failure can be understood by the absence of gear shifting and the presence of only one speed when the car is moving. But the entire resistor rarely requires replacement. More often there is a need to replace or clean contact tips

To replace the heater resistor, you need to disconnect all the wires and the negative terminal from the battery.

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