Removing and installing a carburetor on a VAZ 2106 car

Among car enthusiasts, there is a lot of debate about what will happen if a Solex carburetor is installed on a VAZ 2106, from a VAZ 21083. What improvements will appear in the technical characteristics of the engine, or vice versa, what will have to be sacrificed. Let's look at what installing a Solex carburetor on a VAZ 2106 will give.

Replacing the carburetor of a VAZ 2106 Zhiguli

Loosen the clamp and disconnect the corrugated warm air intake hose from the pipe.

Remove the air filter (see Replacing the air filter element).

Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the air filter housing to the carburetor. To avoid accidentally dropping them into the intake manifold, you can cover the carburetor with a clean rag.

Remove the air filter housing.

Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel supply hose.

Disconnect the tip from the solenoid valve outlet.

Using an “8” wrench, loosen the tightening of the bolt securing the sheath of the air damper drive cable.

. Use a slotted screwdriver to loosen the cable fastening screw, holding the nut with a “7” wrench.

. and remove the end of the cable from the holes.

Disconnect the crankcase gas suction hose.

Using a screwdriver with a wide blade, remove the rod from the throttle valve drive lever (see Adjusting the carburetor drive).

Disconnect the vacuum ignition timing regulator hose.

Remove the return spring.

. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the four carburetor mounting nuts.

Remove the carburetor from the engine.

We install a new (or washed, repaired and adjusted old) carburetor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to replace the carburetor gasket with a new one.

ATTENTION! Do not use much force when tightening the carburetor mounting nuts. The soft metal mating surface of the carburetor body can be damaged.

DIY carburetor repair VAZ 2105 2106 2107 2108 2109 21099 21083

Cars without an injector are still relevant on our roads. Moreover, their owners usually like to repair breakdowns themselves, which are already quite common with long service life. Among these breakdowns there are malfunctions of the most complex air and gasoline supply unit. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are faced with the question of how to repair a carburetor with their own hands.

Content

Especially when engine interruptions begin, and it is not possible to configure such a complex unit. In practice, it fails, and for several reasons. Let's list them.

Due to the complexity of the channel design, the service life of the unit is short.
Regular use of bad gasoline negatively affects parts, channels, and surfaces of the assembly unit.
The entry of crankcase gases into the unit when engine components are worn out also has an effect.
The entry of dirt particles, for example through the air filter housing, can have an abrasive effect, which can cause defects on surfaces.

Next, we’ll look step by step at how to repair a VAZ car with your own hands.

How to make repairs for a “classic”

Initially, we will discuss the carburetor repair instructions from 2107. For the work, we will need the following tools:

screwdrivers;
spanners;
pliers;
ruler.

Also learn about replacing the oil filter without changing the oil and changing the brake fluid yourself.

We begin repairing the VAZ 2107 carburetor by dismantling the unit from the car. It is produced in the following sequence.

First of all, we dismantle the air filter housing together with the filter element by unscrewing the nuts.
After unscrewing the fasteners, disconnect the throttle cable and the choke cable.
We disconnect the crankcase gas exhaust hose.
Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel hose.
Disconnect the vacuum regulator hose.
Disconnect the pneumatic valve from the economizer.
Remove the microswitch from the terminals.
Using a screwdriver, press the tip away from the damper drive rod, and then remove the return spring.
We dismantle the entire assembly unit.

Now, to repair a carburetor from a VAZ 2107 with our own hands, we need to disassemble it, replace the defective parts with new spare parts (they are sometimes sold in the form of a special repair kit for repairing VAZ 2105 - 2107), and we may also have to process the filler plane. We will describe how to do all this.

We dismantle the three-arm lever, spring and rod.
We remove the cover, as well as the housing from the throttle valves. Replace the gasket if necessary.
Carefully dismantle the float by pulling out the axle.
We unscrew the fuel needle valve, as well as the fuel jets from the float chamber. If necessary, we replace parts.
We unscrew the fuel nozzle of the idle system. If necessary, we replace it.
After unscrewing the accelerator pump bolt, remove the pump cover, diaphragm and spring. These parts can also be replaced.
We take out the diffusers that worked above the dampers.
Unscrew the screw for the amount of mixture.
We wash all disassembled metal parts in acetone.
We apply the edge of the ruler to the plane of the upper body, which is connected to another plane of the body for fastening the dampers. Checking the curvature. By the way, if before this it was not possible to properly adjust the stable idle speed, the culprit could be precisely this curvature, which causes air leaks. If necessary, we process the plane with an emery wheel manually, without an electric drive of the wheel, after first removing the adapter tubes from the plane. We perform this operation extremely carefully.
We assemble it in the reverse order, just like installing it on a car.

Let us add that repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2106 is done in exactly the same way, since the unit is the same, under the DAAZ 2107 brand. Generally speaking, repairing a VAZ 2105 is done in the same way, because again the brand of the unit is the same.

Differences for front-wheel drive

Now let’s look at the features of the process when it is necessary to repair a VAZ 2109 carburetor.

With the front-wheel drive Lada, a unit called “Solex” was used, somewhat improved compared to the DAAZ 2107. Its removal from the car is carried out according to the already described scenario. Let's see what differences there are from the above manuals when disassembling and repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2109. The same tools are needed. We move point by point in the same way and look at the differences.

Removing the lever.
The cover and housing from the throttle valves are removed in the same way as the previous instructions.
The float chamber here is arranged in a similar way - let's disassemble it.
We unscrew the similar fuel jets plus the needle valve.
The fuel jet of the idle system is definitely replaced here with a solenoid valve; we unscrew the valve with a wrench. We then install a new one instead - this is desirable.
The accelerator pump is disassembled in a similar way, its parts, especially the diaphragm, are replaced with new ones.
We remove the diffusers.
The mixture quantity screw is of a different type here; we also dismantle it.
We wash parts that are not worn out in acetone.
If necessary, we process the plane of the upper body according to the above recommendations.
We do the assembly, moving back step by step, this also applies to installation on the car.

As you can see, the instructions differ little from those given earlier. Here it must be added that when repairing a carburetor, most often it is necessary to replace the jets, since due to their small size, coupled with the strict requirements for their operation, the life of these parts is short.

In addition, it is important to know that on the “nines” they actually installed a carburetor with brand 2108, so repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2108 is carried out exactly according to the instructions given.

In addition, the “eight” and “nine” modifications have the same unit, but modified, with slightly different clearances. Therefore, repairs on 21083 are done in the same way, but when making adjustments they are guided by slightly different gap values.

Connecting the carburetor to the engine and other vehicle systems.

The first device we see connected to the carburetor is the air filter. The dimensions of the filter are such that it completely covers the carburetor. The filter housing is attached directly to the top of the carburetor using 4 nuts. A fuel hose is connected through a fitting located on the side of the carburetor, through which fuel is supplied from the tank using a fuel pump.

A hose is connected from the distributor (ignition system) to the Ozone. A vacuum is created in the carburetor, which rotates the contact plate in the distributor through this hose, thereby changing the ignition timing.

A wire is connected to the solenoid valve. Through it, voltage from the fuse box is supplied to the valve.

A thin cable is connected to the throttle control lever. This thrust increases the amount of produced fuel-combustible mixture, which is supplied to the engine combustion chamber. It is this thrust that acts when the driver presses the gas pedal in the cabin.

In the area of the air inlet (which is blocked by a special flap), a so-called “choke” rod is connected. This device starts a cold engine: the flap allows less air into the carburetor, thus producing a rich mixture. The rod leads to the choke handle, located inside the car, at the bottom right of the steering column.

The intake manifold, which directs the air-fuel mixture directly into the cylinders, is connected to the carburetor by a short spring and two bolts.

Types of gaskets used in the carburetor

The following types of gaskets are used in the carburetor:

Gasket between carburetor and intake manifold. In most engine models, this part is made of paronite. This part is installed directly on the collector plane;
Thermal insulation gasket. This part is also installed under the carburetor. The thermal insulation gasket is usually made of textolite, so it copes with its function perfectly;
Lower carburetor gasket. This part is installed between the heat-insulating gasket and the carburetor flange. The lower carburetor gasket is made of metal-textolite material. This gasket perfectly prevents the formation of leaky areas in the lower part of the carburetor mount;
Upper gasket. This part is installed between the carburetor and the air filter pipe. It is made of dense rubber, therefore it provides a tight connection, preventing the leakage of untreated air;
Carburetor cover gasket. It is made of thick cardboard and serves to reliably seal the two halves of a Solex carburetor. The Solex carburetor gasket most often causes carburetor malfunction, but this problem can be easily solved if the old gasket is replaced with a new one.

Carburetor VAZ 2106

The carburetor is one of the most critical components in the fuel supply system to the engine of a VAZ 2106 car. It is responsible for creating the fuel-air mixture, which is necessary for the normal operation of the power unit.

Carburetor OZONE

A carburetor with the correct settings prepares a normal combustible mixture of gasoline and air (1:15). But during prolonged or intensive use, the factory settings are violated, as a result of which an enriched or lean fuel mixture constantly begins to flow into the engine. This immediately affects its operation and requires carburetor repair.

Engine gaskets main functions

Skoda Octavia RS Logbook Thermal gasket for the intake manifold

As in any other case, the main task of the gasket is to ensure the tightness of a particular unit, device or mechanism. The internal combustion engine is no exception.

Technical fluids constantly circulate inside this complex mechanism during operation. Moreover, these liquids are under a certain pressure. In order for the specified pressure to remain at the required level, and also to prevent leakage of liquids from the housing, tightness is necessary.

Such tightness is ensured by gaskets, which differ in shape, and are also made of different materials, taking into account certain features (location in a certain area of the internal combustion engine, load on the gasket and degree of pressure, interaction with a specific technical fluid, temperature conditions, etc. ).

As you can see, gaskets help prevent various leaks of working fluids and lubricants from mechanisms, as well as prevent dust, moisture and dirt from entering from the outside. The use of gaskets allows you to achieve an ideal and tight fit between two surfaces, eliminating certain errors in their processing.

The gasket is able to follow the shape of the parts, and thanks to its softness and elasticity, it is possible to smooth out unevenness, roughness and other minor defects. It turns out that the solution seals the housing, seals the internal components of the motor, and prevents leaks of technical fluids.

Symptoms of a problem

If the carburetor begins to produce a rich mixture, you will understand this by the following signs:

Fuel consumption increases
Loud exhaust is heard from the muffler and the smoke turns black

If the engine receives a lean mixture, you will understand this by the following sign:

Loud bangs are heard from under the hood.

In both cases, the engine heats up noticeably more, and its power is also lost.

If you encounter a similar problem, remember that it is a natural consequence of using the carburetor. Any element of the car requires care, regular inspection and maintenance. Therefore, the VAZ 2106 carburetor must be adjusted from time to time.

Before proceeding with the adjustment, you need to make sure that the cause of the breakdown is not the failure of any element inside the device. You need to disassemble it, wash it and clean it. And only after you are convinced that all components of the structure are in full working order, you can begin adjustment.

The easiest option is to send the car to a specialist. Carburetor technicians have a special tool - a gas analyzer. Using this device, you can achieve the most efficient system setup. However, the services of specialists in this profile are not cheap. You may want to do all the work yourself, using available materials. Next we will look at how to set up a carburetor step by step.

What to put?

Sometimes there is a need to completely replace the carburetor. Therefore, you immediately need to decide which model to buy. Today there are two most common families: Solex and Ozone carburetors.

Many car owners don’t even know what kind of device they have. Externally, these devices can be distinguished by the following characteristics.

In Ozone, the fuel intake fitting has the shape of an oblong tube, in Solex it is a return
Ozone consists of three parts: the throttle valve axis, the float chamber and the cover. Solex consists of only two parts: the lower part with the float chamber and the upper part - the cover in which the float is held.
The ozone has a vacuum valve that controls the opening of the throttle valve of the second chamber.
On a Solex carburetor, the air damper is controlled by such a large lever: On ozone, this lever looks completely different. It is also called a three-arm lever.

In the 90s, a massive hobby began to replace the standard Ozone with Solex. Taxi drivers were especially guilty of this. This was explained by the fact that fuel consumption decreased slightly, and engine dynamics became a little better.

If you install an oxygen sensor and compare its values on different models, you can understand the reason for this phenomenon. With Solex, after adjusting the mixture composition, the range in composition is no more than one. On ozone, after adjusting the mixture at the moments of braking and acceleration, the mixture acquires a very strong spread of values. At the same time, it can increase or decrease by a large value.

Replacing the Solex 21083 carburetor on a VAZ 2106

To carry out work on replacing the Solex 21083 carburetor, you need to prepare gasket material made of paronite, a fuel supply hose about 80 cm in length, a carburetor rocker and the Solex product itself. A set of motorist's locksmith supplies will be useful for the job.

Installing a Solex 21083 carburetor on a VAZ 2106:

We clean the power compartment to prevent contamination of the motor and power system.
We disconnect the cables and ties of the carburetor device, the fastenings of the fuel wires and hoses of the heating complex.
We remove the bracket holding the casing covering the throttle valve drive cable.
We clean the manifold platform for attaching the carburetor.
Apply a layer of sealing lubricant to prevent air from entering the system.
We place the gaskets in the following sequence: thin, then thick, then again thin gasket. A large cross-section gasket is used to remove heat and prevent heat transfer to the carburetor device.
We mount the Solex on the seat, removing the front part of the product for ease of operation.
We install the rocker on the side of the over-valve cylinder head cover.
We pull the cable from the throttle drive of the carburetor valve and set the required length of the cable and then connect it to the carburetor device.
We install the updated gasket and lock the front carburetor cover.
We connect the hoses of the heating and distribution ignition system.
Connect the tee to the fine fuel filter element and connect the return hose to the fuel system.
We connect the reverse valve to the “return” hose, and then connect it to the carburetor device.
We connect the return type spring to the axial element of the rocker, which is located on the cylinder head casing.
We mount an additional spring element for the throttle drive of the carburetor valve for the period of running-in of the product (if necessary).
Connect the idle air solenoid valve to the relay connector.
Restore the original position of the air filter housing and connect the gas outlet hose.
This completes the Solex installation.

It is important to choose the right model of Solex carburetor for the VAZ 2106, the price of which is quite reasonable for Russian car enthusiasts. It all depends on the size of the power plant

In some cases, it is advisable to install the Solex 21073 product, but you should know that when using such a modification of the carburetor, the dynamics of the vehicle improves, although fuel consumption also increases in direct proportion.

In a VAZ 2106 car, adjustment begins with correcting the fuel level in the float chambers. For all the different methods of arranging the “return” (directly into the fuel tank or tapping into the gas line in front of the pump), the following steps must be taken:

We place the vehicle on a level surface, start the engine, warm it up, test it at all speeds and turn off the power plant.
We remove the fuel hose from the carburetor device, and do this carefully so that fuel does not get into the chambers, because The float level will be incorrect.
We dismantle the front cover of the Solex together with the accelerator cable, after which we use a caliper to measure the distance from the fuel level to the cut of the product body (should be 24 mm in both chambers) with an error of 1 mm. Due to a possible system error in the vehicle horizon, you can take the arithmetic average value based on measurements in the carburetor chambers.
Based on the measurements taken, we bend the tongue of the float in the required direction, after which we check, after assembling the product, for the transfer of fuel from the chambers.
Next we adjust the idle speed.

This work is carried out on a power plant heated to operating temperature. The peculiarity is that the mixture quality regulator is equipped with a red arrow, and the mixture quantity regulator is equipped with a blue arrow. Otherwise, the adjustment is of a normal nature, only the value is set by the quantitative regulator to 9000 instead of 800 on previous models.

Installation procedure

The Solex carburetor is absolutely suitable for mounting on the VAZ 2106 engine. Since the device itself is different, you will need to purchase some additional parts in order for the installation to be successful and the engine to work properly. The parts list includes the following items:

2 paronite gaskets and 1 paper;
1 meter of hose for fuel supply;
Carburetor, always with a slide;
A set of keys, screwdrivers and other locksmith supplies.

Now, you can get to work.
Before installing the Solex on the VAZ 2106, clean the area where the Ozone carburetor connects to the engine. This is done so that when removing, debris does not get into the engine. Next, disconnect all the hoses and cables. Next, unscrew the fastenings and remove the “Ozone” from the engine. Before installing the carburetor from the VAZ 21083, clean the mounting location. Afterwards, apply sealant and lay the gasket. The gaskets should be in this order: thin, thick and thin.

When the seat is ready, disassemble the Solex into two parts. This will make it easier for you to install it. First of all, install the rocker from the carburetor VAZ 21083 to 2106, as this is the key element required to begin the installation. You can already install the Solex on it.

Now, connect all the cables and hoses. We start with the throttle cable. It must be set to the required length, which is enough to connect it. Next in line is the fuel system hose. Before installing it, it is worth considering that on the VAZ 21083 it is longer than on the 2106, so you will need a pre-prepared meter hose. Place one of its tips on the outlet of the fuel system, and the second on the inlet to the carburetor. Before putting on the second end, it is better to cut it so that it does not dangle freely in the engine compartment. Also, remember, the longer the hose, the more fuel it will contain, and therefore the weight. This can cause it to become disconnected and possibly even cause the engine to catch fire.

Connecting and setting up the rods

Next, we connect one end of the return flow to the fine filter, do not forget to install a valve in it. Place the other end on the carburetor. We put all the springs in their places (they do not need to be replaced with new ones). Once all the hoses and cables are in place, you will need to worry about the idle speed. To do this, install a solenoid valve.

The final touch is to put on the top part of the carburetor and tighten the fastening nuts. Now, your Solex is ready for use.

Which carburetor is better for VAZ 2106

Since carburetors of the SOLEKS and WEBER families were completely copied from foreign-made analogues, their reliability is beyond doubt. It is enough to regulate and clean these units every 60 thousand kilometers, and there will be no problems with the supply of fuel to the engine of your car.

But the most popular are the devices of the OZONE family. They need to be adjusted and cleaned twice as often. In addition, they have many different diaphragms, which often break. The most common breakdowns of melon units are incomplete opening of the second chamber and malfunction of the accelerator pump.

How to cut a paper gasket for a carburetor.

Watch the video. Gaskets in connections between parts are mandatory in some places and technically cannot yet be replaced with sealing paste or sealing mastic. The gasket installed between the carburetor and the engine of a lawn mower or chainsaw does not have strict technical restrictions. It is enough for it to be a little elastic, tear-resistant, not rigid, gasoline-oil-resistant, and easy to crimp. As for the temperature effect on the gasket, the temperature at the place of its installation, even on the hottest engine, is low.

Due to the specific nature of this technique and the fact that disassembly is carried out frequently in this area, cardboard or pressboard can be used as a gasket for sealing.

The paper gasket is convenient because it is petrol and oil resistant, does not stretch, seals well, and at the right time there is always something to replace it with.

To ensure that the gasket matches the contour of the surface being used, an oil print of the same surface can be used. A thin layer of machine oil is applied to the template surface, cardboard is applied and pressed tightly over the entire area.

Using a well-sharpened drift of the appropriate diameter, straight holes are cut for the mounting bolts. The hole for the diffuser is cut with small curved scissors or a punch of the appropriate size.

We apply a thin layer of machine oil to the second surface and get an imprint on which the place for the hole in the pulse channel is already visible.

After starting the engine, the adjusting screws on the carburetor are set to the optimal position, since previously, with the gasket squeezed out, the operation of the carburetor was adjusted during engine operation several times and on the move

Carburetor without gasket on chainsaws.

On chainsaws with budget two-stroke engines, the standard gasket between the engine and the carburetor is often not used. The carburetor is connected to the engine through an elastic rubber pipe, and with sufficient compression the connection seals very well.

According to my observations, the operation of a chainsaw engine with a similar system for connecting the carburetor to the engine is often disrupted due to a poor seal between the carburetor and the pipe. The impulse for the fuel pump passes through an isolated channel, therefore, it reaches the membrane of the fuel pump with an equal force forming it.

But the operation of the dosing system is disrupted, since the discharged air flow passing through the carburetor diffuser is not sufficient to form an optimal fuel-air mixture.

When the throttle valve is closed and in the engine acceleration mode, additional air enters the engine working chamber through a poor seal between the carburetor and the pipe. The air flow passing through the carburetor diffuser weakens and is not able to operate the membrane and fuel valve with sufficient force.

The engine loses low speed and does not hold it steadily when the throttle is fully open. The fuel-air mixture becomes leaner. It can be difficult to start such an engine the first time it is started, and especially when the cylinder is hot.

“Subscribe to the newsletter for new posts” 584

Do-it-yourself carburetor idle adjustment

To solve the problem of how to adjust the idle speed on a VAZ 2106, you need to stock up on a set of driver’s tools, although one screwdriver is enough for this technological operation. On the Internet you can watch the “VAZ 2106 idling” video clip about carrying out adjustment work to stabilize the idling speed of the vehicle.

To adjust the idle speed of the “six” carburetor, a number of preparatory conditions must be observed. These include:

The operation is carried out only on the motor that has reached operating temperature (about 90 degrees Celsius).
The clearances of the timing valves and ignition contacts (with a contact system) must correspond to the required dimensions.

When adjusting the idle speed of a VAZ 2106 carburetor on a cold engine, the required result cannot be achieved. If there is no idle speed, it will appear only if the correct adjustment conditions are met.

If the VAZ of the “sixth model” stalls at idle, then to find out how to adjust the idle speed, you need to use the following algorithm:

The process of adjusting the idle speed on a VAZ 2106 car is carried out using two screws for adjustment, the first is the quality screw, the second is the quantity of the mixture.
In accordance with the factory parameters, the quantitative adjusting screw is locked with a sealed limiter sleeve. To carry out adjustments and when there is no idle speed on the VAZ 2106, the seal is removed and adjustment work is carried out.
Using a high-quality screw, we achieve a value of 900 rpm, checking the value with the tachometer readings.
Using the quantity screw, we use a gas meter to set the carbon monoxide value in the range of 0.6-1.3 percent. The circular movement of the adjusting screw changes the number of rotations of the crankshaft of the power unit.
In this situation, we re-fix the required crankshaft speed parameters with the first screw. If everything is done correctly, then when you sharply press and lower the accelerator pedal, the rotation value should remain stable.
If all operations are performed correctly, there should be a smooth increase in engine speed and the unit should operate stably.

If the idle speed floats or the VAZ 2106 engine operates spasmodically, that is, jerkily and unevenly, then the unit settings need to be restored. Upon completion of the setup, the power plant should produce stable speed.

You need to know how to set the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 in order to adjust the carburetor. You can perform this procedure quite quickly with your own hands, if, of course, you have an idea of what a carburetor consists of and the functions of its main components. But first things first, let's start with the saddest thing - the case when suddenly there is no idle speed and the engine starts to stall.

You'll be lucky if this happens close to home. But if you’re on the road, it’s not good enough. On my own behalf, I’ll add that several times I had to remove and disassemble the carburetor while standing on a narrow highway, shying away from passing trucks and highlighting it with a flashlight. A good habit is to take a thermos and a flashlight on the road.

Settings

Before you start operating the carburetor from a VAZ 21083 on a VAZ 2106, it must be configured.

In order for the mixture to be prepared better and for you to make adjustments easier, park the car on level ground, without slopes. Start the engine and test it at high and low speeds. This will let you know in which mode the engine receives a normal mixture, and in which it requires adjustment.

After running the engine for a while on the new carburetor and filling its chambers with gasoline, you will need to check what a constant level is in them. To do this, remove the cover from the carburetor, and using a caliper, measure the distance from the fuel level to the top edge of the float chamber. It is best if the level is from 23 to 25 mm. In this case, the carburetor will not flood the spark plugs and stall at idle.

To adjust the fuel level, simply bend the float in the desired direction (up or down). After each change in position, check the resulting distance. When the float is set, assemble the device and begin adjusting the quality and quantity of fuel.

On a VAZ 21083, the correct mixture is obtained with the following settings:

Quantity screw: 1.5 – 2 turns;
Quality screw: 4 – 4.5 turns.

After installing it on the VAZ 2106, it is necessary to configure the device after the engine has run at all speeds. And also, the fuel must be heated to operating temperature.

The most common breakdowns

However, the most common devices are the OZONE family of devices. They need to be cleaned and adjusted twice as often. In addition, they have a lot of different diaphragms, which break every now and then. The most common breakdowns of these units are incomplete opening of the second chamber, as well as malfunctions of the accelerator pump.

Popping sound when you press the accelerator pedal, as if something is shooting into the carburetor.
Similar pops, but now it shoots into the muffler.
The idle speed is either too high or too low (floats).
The car thinks for a long time when driving on the highway. When you press the gas pedal all the way, it does not accelerate at all or accelerates too slowly.
When you shift into 2nd or 3rd gear and press the accelerator pedal, the car first slows down and then jerks forward with a sharp increase in speed.

The detonation problem may be associated with a violation of the ignition timing angle. In any case, you should first try to eliminate detonation by adjusting the carburetor. In 90% of cases this helps.

The symptom described in point 3 indicates the need to adjust the idle speed. The situation indicated in paragraph 4 indicates that camera drive 2 is faulty. Eliminated by replacing broken parts. The symptom described in paragraph 5 indicates a breakdown of the accelerator pump - the diaphragm or spring must be replaced.

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2107.

Good afternoon to all visitors of the site zerga.ru. In this article I will tell you how to correctly replace the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2107. This process is almost the same for all classic VAZ (Zhiguli) models, so I will limit myself to only one VAZ 2107 model.

When is it necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket?

There are several reasons, some of them are critical, while others are not so much, that is, with some damage the car can be used, but with others it is not. I will try to list the main symptoms.

Breakdown of the gasket between the cooling system channel and the drainage channels of the lubrication system.

With such damage, the coolant enters the oil pan and mixes with the oil. When mixing coolant with oil, a light brown emulsion is obtained. You can see this when checking the oil level in the engine by pulling out the dipstick. If you see that the coolant is leaving the radiator and the oil has turned a cloudy light brown color, then most likely the gasket has ruptured and further operation of the engine is strictly prohibited, because it can lead to jamming and destruction of the engine.

Breakdown of the gasket between the cooling system channel and the cylinder.

If the cylinder head gasket is not of good quality or the head is not tightly tightened, the gasket may break through and then some of the gases under pressure enter the cooling system and, as a rule, eject coolant from the expansion tank.

Burnout of the gasket between the cylinders.

It looks something like this.

With such a burnout, compression in the cylinders drops, and the engine begins to operate unstably. In this case, the cylinder head gasket needs to be replaced.

Destruction of the gasket.

Well, another reason is the destruction of the gasket. How does this manifest itself? This is manifested by the fact that coolant begins to seep between the block and the head, which is accompanied by bubbles.

An attempt to tighten the head did not bring any results. The seepage still remains.

For all these damages, the cylinder head gasket needs to be replaced.

Let's start replacing the cylinder head gasket. Disassembly.

The first thing we will start with is to remove the air filter; how to remove it, I recommend reading the article “Air Filter”. Now we can see everything and have access to everything.

Next we move on to the carburetor. Some mechanics do not remove it and pull out the cylinder head along with the carburetor, but I still recommend removing it for convenience and so as not to damage it. How to properly remove a carburetor, read the article “Removing and installing a VAZ carburetor.”

The next step to free the mounted components and mechanisms will be to remove the ignition distributor and its wires; you can find out more about this in the special article “Ignition distributor”.

And now we get to the engine. In the next step, we need to drain the coolant from the cooling system. This process is quite interesting, because the manufacturer installs a regular plug in the block, not a tap, and draining the coolant is very inconvenient for a person who often does not do this.

It goes something like this. We are looking for a container for liquid, about ten liters and about a meter of rubber hose, approximately the size so that the hole is at least ten millimeters. Place a container under the engine and place one end of the rubber hose in it. We connect the other end of the hose to the drain plug. Take the key and unscrew the plug. Next, remove the plug with one hand, and with the other hand, quickly press the hose against the hole, and the liquid will drain into a special container. The only downside to this process is that some liquid will spill on your hands.

After the coolant has been drained, disconnect the rubber pipes. We disconnect two pipes from the tee, which is attached to the head, and one pipe from the stove.

Now we need to remove the valve cover. Unscrew the eight nuts and remove the figured washers. Be careful not to lose the clamping washers, because they provide the best clamping.

After removing the head cover, we need to remove the chain from the camshaft gear. To remove the gear you need to loosen the chain tensioner. We take the key and release the special nut on the tensioner, or it’s better to remove it altogether by unscrewing two nuts, whichever is convenient for you.

Now that the motor chain is loose, you can remove the timing gear. The bolt that secures the gear to the camshaft is secured with a special lock washer. Using a large screwdriver and hammer, bend the edges of the lock washer.

Bend back the lock washer and unscrew the bolt.

The entire disassembly process can be viewed in more detail in the article “Disassembling a VAZ engine part 2.”

We take out the bolt and remove the gear from the shaft. Carefully remove the chain from the gear. We will not be able to remove the chain completely and we need, no matter what it falls down, to do this we need to tie it with wire and secure it.

Let's move on to removing the camshaft. To do this, you need to unscrew nine nuts and remove the shaft itself.

And finally we just have to remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. The receiving pipe is secured with four nuts, which are made of brass. They are made of brass so that they do not stick to the studs, so if you have regular nuts installed, then there is a chance of tearing off the stud.

We have come to removing the cylinder head. We take the head with a powerful wrench and unscrew the ten bolts that secure the cylinder head.

Let’s not forget about the eleventh small bolt, which is installed on the ebb of the head.

The head can be removed very easily, you just pry it up and take it out, you can also ask a friend to help, no matter what scratches the car.

Next, you need to inspect the gasket itself for damage.

Search for defects in the cylinder head gasket.

As a rule, by looking at the gasket you can see where it is damaged, but our task is to determine the reason why the gasket failed. By identifying the real cause, we can prevent a similar malfunction in the future. Usually, after replacing a couple of gaskets in a fairly short period, we begin to change the heads, grind them and carry out other (unnecessary) procedures that we could do without.

Let's look at some of the causes of head gasket problems.

In the photo above you can see how the gasket between the cylinders has burned out. What caused this to happen? There is a very small distance between the cylinders and cooling is poor, which means overheating is possible. The use of low-quality fuel leads to detonation, and this is the engine’s worst enemy, as they say, “It breaks where it’s thin.” Another point is the deformation of the head itself. Under all the above conditions, the head is subject to deformation and such burnout is possible in the future.

Here is another example of a damaged cylinder head gasket. What do you think caused the gasket failure? I have seen this a couple of times in my life, and the owner of this car used ordinary water instead of antifreeze or antifreeze. For the winter, he drained the water, and the car sat until spring. Here the gasket was simply destroyed by rust. So saving can lead to undesirable consequences.

There are, of course, reasons such as poor quality spare parts and gaskets, so it’s like a lottery whether you’re lucky or not. Having purchased a new gasket, we install it in place.

Installing the cylinder head gasket. Assembly.

Before installing a new cylinder head gasket, thoroughly clean the gasket contact surface on the cylinder block from traces of the old gasket. If this is not done, then during engine operation small channels may form through which, then coolant or oil will leak out. You also need to inspect the cylinder head and if some repairs are required, it is better to do it right away than to disassemble it again later. I recommend reading the corresponding article on this topic, “Repairing the cylinder head of a VAZ car.” After cleaning the block, install a new gasket.

The photo shows how we install a new type of gasket. How is the new gasket different from the old gasket? The gasket contains sealant, which is applied in a thin strip around the perimeter. To be honest, I don’t see any benefit in this, just to increase the cost. Also, the holes for the coolant are made round with a small diameter, and not shaped like on the old gaskets. But since there were no others, we will put this one. We lay the gasket and center it using two guides, they are indicated by red arrows in the photo above.

Having cleared the head of traces of the old gasket, we install it in place.

The next big step is to tighten the cylinder head. This process will determine how long the new gasket will last. Tightening the head is not done just like that, but with a certain force and the required sequence. The bolts must be tightened with a special (torque) wrench. To properly tighten the bolts, there is a special diagram that shows in what order they should be tightened.

As shown in the photo, the bolts are tightened from the middle, which ensures uniform pressure. The bolts are tightened in at least two passes, the first with a force of 4 kgf m, and the second 11.5 kgf m. The eleventh bolt is tightened to a maximum force of 3.8 kgf m. What is kgf m? It stands for kilogram of force per meter.

After installing the cylinder head, install the gas camshaft. The most difficult thing that can happen is installing and adjusting the camshaft gear. I recommend installing a split gear; it makes adjustments easier and more accurate. How to install a split gear on a Classic, I recommend reading the article “Installing a VAZ split gear.”

Next we put everything back together.

That's all, we replaced the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ 2107.

Carburetor 2106

The standard option used on the Six engine is the “Ozone” sample. This is a two-chamber carburetor, with a falling air flow, emulsion type. The technical characteristics of the engine, when running, produced 75 horsepower, and the maximum speed was 155 km/h. Acceleration time to hundreds is 16 seconds.

The engine response is good, but when you press the gas pedal sharply, the car first chokes and then starts to move. This was explained by the fact that in the Ozone float chamber, the fuel level was insufficient, and during sharp acceleration there was not enough of it.

VAZ 2106 car owners were racking their brains over the question of which carburetor is better to install so that the engine's throttle response increases, while having minimal losses. Most opinions agreed that installing a Solex with a VAZ 21083 would be the best option.

Installing a custom carburetor

Owners of “classics” in some cases resort to installing non-standard carburetor models on their cars. Such an installation will require certain modifications and subsequent configuration. We are talking about the Solex 21073 and Solex 21083 carburetor models.

Model Solex 21073

This model was developed for a 1.7-liter engine and was standardly installed on the power unit of a Niva car. The Solex 21073 carburetor differs from others in its large channels and jets. Installing this model on other VAZ cars with a carburetor allows you to achieve an increase in dynamics, but fuel consumption rises to 9-12 liters per hundred.

Model Solex 21083

Solex 21083 was installed on the VAZ 2108-09. If you install it on “classic” engines, then modifications will be required. The gas distribution systems of engines 01-07 and 08-09 have a number of differences. Installing such a carburetor without modifications will lead to the fact that at speeds of about 4000 the speed of the supplied air can reach the sound speed, and the engine will not be able to spin up further. To install this model of carburetor, it is necessary to drill out the diffusers of the primary and secondary chambers to expand them. You also need to install large jets. The refinement process is labor-intensive, but the result allows you to obtain gasoline consumption lower than model 21053, and dynamics exceed those of 21073.

BRIEFLY ABOUT THE FEATURES AND DEVICE OF THE “SIX” CARBURETTOR UNIT

Before adjusting the carburetor on a VAZ 2106, it doesn’t hurt to know its design features. After 1980, Ozone and Solex began to be installed on Tolyatti cars. The purpose of the unit’s operation is to prepare a combustible mixture before feeding it into the car’s cylinders. Down to the subtleties, this is not a driving school, we will not disassemble the design, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the main components that ensure optimal operation of a carburetor internal combustion engine:

Fuel dosing system.
Mechanisms for controlling throttle valves and enriching the mixture.
Idle system.
Accelerator pump and econostat.
Float chamber.

A chamber with a float and a needle valve is responsible for the stability of the fuel level. Next, gasoline, flowing through the spray tube, enters the chamber, where it mixes with air from the inlet pipe. The amount of mixture is adjusted by the throttle valve, which is connected to the accelerator pedal.

Precise adjustment allows you to prepare the correct mixture of gasoline and air in a ratio of 1:15. During long-term operation of the car, the settings get lost and you have to think about how to adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 on your own. The adjustment technology is the same for both Solex and Ozone.

WHEN IS ADJUSTMENT NEEDED?

Adjusting the carburetor unit is no more difficult than adjusting the clutch drive on a VAZ 2107, since it only involves adjusting the jets. In some cases, they need to be cleaned of resins and other contaminants; the presence of contaminants is felt by power dips in the process of accelerating. Many car owners claim that Ozone carburetors are not a very good option and recommend replacing them with Solex.

However, the signs that the device has begun to prepare an enriched mixture and needs to be adjusted are the same for both types of units:

Increased fuel consumption.
Frequent overheating of the motor.
Black smoke from the exhaust pipe and pops.
Loss of power.

The preparation of a lean mixture is characterized by the following characteristics:

Popping sounds in the carburetor.
Loss of power.
Engine overheating.

Of course, you don’t always need to immediately grab a screwdriver and turn the adjusting screws - perhaps it’s something else. For example, when the idle speed floats, air may leak through the intake manifold gasket, or there may be a breakdown of the brake booster diaphragm. But even the reasons listed are not all the options, so specific recipes for eliminating certain problems cannot be given. The issue should be addressed comprehensively, taking into account the connection between vehicle systems.

What to put?

Sometimes there is a need to completely replace the carburetor. Therefore, you immediately need to decide which model to buy. Today there are two most common families: Solex and Ozone carburetors.

Many car owners don’t even know what kind of device they have. Externally, these devices can be distinguished by the following characteristics.

In Ozone, the fuel intake fitting has the shape of an oblong tube, in Solex it is a return
Ozone consists of three parts: the throttle valve axis, the float chamber and the cover. Solex consists of only two parts: the lower part with the float chamber and the upper part - the cover in which the float is held.
The ozone has a vacuum valve that controls the opening of the throttle valve of the second chamber.
On a Solex carburetor, the air damper is controlled by such a large lever: On ozone, this lever looks completely different. It is also called a three-arm lever.

This is due to the fact that the jets on the Solex are located in the center of the float chamber. When the position of the car changes during sharp turns or during acceleration and braking, part of the fuel is deflected by inertia towards one of the walls of the float chamber. The central location of the jets reduces the likelihood of changes in the fuel composition at these moments.

On ozone, the device is significantly different. The jets are not in the center. Therefore, fuel moves around the float chamber in different directions, which significantly changes the spread of air proportions in the fuel mixture. In different driving modes, the engine receives a different mixture composition.

So, the Solex carburetor on the VAZ 2106 keeps the mixture more stable while driving. This is its main technical advantage.

Carburetor adjustment: setting the fuel level

The level of fuel in the float chamber affects the composition of the mixture in any operating mode of the carburetor, the toxicity of exhaust gases, the dynamics of engine operation and fuel consumption. Work order:

Unscrew the carburetor cover mounting screws and install it in a vertical position. A prerequisite for its installation is light contact between the float tongue and the needle ball. Using a special gauge, measure the gap between the bottom surface of the float and the plane of the cover (taking into account the cardboard spacer)

It is important that the gap is 6.5+0.25 mm. If the gap size does not match, the value is corrected by bending the float tongue. Finally, check the float stroke, which should be 8.0+0.25 mm.

How to make a carburetor adapter

To make their work easier, many people make a rubber carburetor adapter, since it is easy to cut the desired shape of the product from rubber. If you are going to sell your car, then you can make the adapter from rubber, spending a minimum of labor. However, such an adapter will not last long. The rubber will corrode from the aggressive effects of gasoline, and soon a gasoline leak will appear in this place. Even the use of oil and petrol resistant rubber will not be a criterion for the reliability of such an adapter.

Making an adapter from a ready-made gasket for a carburetor for VAZs

Let's look at making an adapter using the example of a Volkswagen Golf 2.

To make it you will need:

Three drills with diameters of 6.5 mm, 10 mm and 12 mm;
Thick heat-resistant gasket for the carburetor made of textolite (from VAZ 2108);
Thin gasket for the carburetor made of paranit (from VAZ 2108);
Three countersunk screws (6x20 mm);
Four studs for the VAZ 2108 carburetor;
Washers and nuts for these studs;
Heat-resistant sealant;
Cushion for carburetor from Golf 2.

Then we drill them with a 10 drill to a depth of 3mm and make small recesses on top with a 12 drill to hide the bolt heads. Next, the studs are inserted and the nuts and washers are screwed onto them. In order for the adapter to fit into the place where the carburetor is mounted and its size to fit, you should grind the top of the cushion using sandpaper. You need to sharpen until the adapter fits into the installation location. The lower part of the adapter should be coated with sealant and installed on the Golf cushion 2. We cut off the protruding studs, grind the bolts and connect the carburetor to the adapter. A paranitic gasket must be placed between the adapter and the carburetor.

DIY adapter made of textolite gasket

If it is possible to obtain plates made of textolite, 16 millimeters thick, you can make the adapter entirely with your own hands. To do this, the workpiece is carefully ground using an electric sharpener and holes of suitable diameter are drilled in it. Textolite can break off during these operations, so all work should be done very carefully. If you still overdid it and the holes for the pins turned out to be too large, don’t be upset. You can fill the holes with cold welding and, when the composition hardens, re-drill. Textolite is not reliable enough for making an adapter, especially since the plate you purchased is clearly not intended for this.

Aluminum adapter

The best material for making a gasket is aluminum or duralumin. Manufacturing a part from this material is a rather complex process that requires special tools. The best option would be to order an adapter from a mechanic at the factory. By making a drawing and explaining to the person what you want as a result, you will receive a high-quality part. You can make an adapter with your own hands using a sharpener, but it will take a lot of time, and it’s not a fact that the part will work out.

Installing a carburetor with an adapter

Installing a carburetor with an adapter is no different from installing a “original” carburetor. The main thing during installation is to correctly connect all hoses, fuel pipes and electrical equipment.

Making a carburetor adapter will help get your vintage car back on the road, and the new carburetor will deliver a better fuel mixture, which will increase compression in each cylinder.

How is a carburetor repaired and flushed?

Many problems can be eliminated by flushing the carburetor, but for it to be effective, the unit must be removed from the car. After which you will need to disassemble it to the required level so that you can gain access to absolutely all elements of the mechanism.

Parts of the carburetor body 2107-1107010 in the diagram: 1 - rod of the pneumatic drive of the second throttle valve; 2 — pneumatic drive housing; 3 - diaphragm; 4 — pneumatic drive cover; 5 — fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber; 6 — fuel nozzle body; 7 — small diffuser of the second chamber; 8 — accelerator pump nozzle; 9 — screw valve of the accelerator pump; 10 — main air jet of the second chamber; 11 — emulsion tube of the second chamber; 12 — main air jet of the first chamber; 13 — emulsion tube of the first chamber; 14 — main fuel jet of the second chamber; 15 — main fuel jet of the first chamber; 16 — accelerator pump adjusting screw; 17 — fuel jet of the idle system; 18 — fuel nozzle body; 19 — return spring of the accelerator pump; 20 — accelerator pump diaphragm; 21 — accelerator pump cover; 22 — small diffuser of the first chamber; 23 — lever return spring; 24 — three-arm air damper control lever; 25 — connection rod with the throttle valve; 26 — throttle valve return spring bracket

Repair consists of the following steps:

Dismantling the device.
Flushing, which includes cleaning and purging of carbon deposits and adhering dirt.
Replacement of faulty parts.

Important: You need to remove the carburetor if you are 100% sure that the problem is in the carburetor, because the problem in other components of the car’s fuel system is also possible

Where does carburetor repair on a VAZ 2106 car begin?

Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2106 carburetor begins with its removal. To do this, you will need to remove the air filter, which will still have to be replaced with a new one, and dismantle its housing.

It is recommended to first seal the openings in the chambers with rags to prevent small objects from getting into them. After this, the hose going to the brake vacuum is removed from the pneumatic valve, the choke installation cable is unscrewed and the rod is removed from the gas pedal lever that controls the throttle valve.

If you have the latest Solex carburetor, then the wires from the throttle valve, air damper and economizer are disconnected, providing forced idle.

Next, remove the fuel supply and return hoses and the ventilation pipe. After disconnecting all suitable and supply elements, you can begin to remove the block itself. To do this, you need to unscrew the 4 fastening nuts and carefully remove the device from the studs. It is highly recommended to plug the hole in the collector with a soft rag.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the carburetor

For your convenience, I have compiled detailed step-by-step instructions for removing the carburetor from the photo:

Important to remember: Be sure to replace the gasket under the carburetor with a new one. To avoid air leaks

Spare parts included in the carburetor repair kit for the VAZ 2106:

Trigger diaphragm
Jet body
Idle jet - 2 pcs.
Main air jet - 2 pcs.
Main fuel jet - 2 pcs.
Needle valve assembly
Accelerator pump diaphragm
Filter element
Carburetor cover gasket
Starter gasket
Return spring
Accelerator pump diaphragm spring
Idle speed screw (adjustment needle)
Ring sealing
For R/K 2105-10, 2105-20, 2106, 2107-10, 2107-20:
Acceleration pump nozzle
Spray Valve
Sprayer gasket - 2 pcs.
Screw M5x0.8x20
Screw M4x0.7x15

First stage of work

Unscrew the 3 nuts with an open-end wrench (10) securing the upper cover of the filter housing and remove the air filter.

Using a tubular wrench ( we will give 4 nuts from the studs securing the lower part of the body to the carburetor.

Then let's see how the air intake draft works and whether the air damper moves freely. It is possible that the bolt securing the choke cable to the bracket (the “three-arm lever” on the carburetor) will be tightened, then the damper will jam, which is not allowed.

Then, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the bolt on the fuel hose clamp and pull the hose out of the tube and drain the remaining gasoline into any container.

Second stage of work

We work in order:

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 5 screws of the top carburetor cover and remove the assembly with the float;
Let's drain the remaining fuel and see if there is dirt there;
Using an open-end wrench, we will stretch the 4 nuts securing the carburetor to the bottom; these nuts become loose due to constant heating;
Unscrew the solenoid valve with your fingers (see photo below);
Use the flat blade of a screwdriver to pull all the jets through; there is no need to completely disassemble them.

The textolite “thick” gasket presses well over time and air leaks in this place rarely occur. You should not grind the seat on the emery wheel unless absolutely necessary.

Then use a wooden toothpick to clean all the jets and holes and blow with compressed air. The jets were selected at the factory so that fuel consumption would not increase and engine power would not be reduced. Install jets according to your numbers, such as those recommended by the manufacturer. In the injection chamber, a diffuser with a larger diameter nozzle is placed with a larger hole diameter and vice versa.

The starting jet, which gives maximum power, must be put in its place, look at the photo to see how it is installed correctly.

Then we will unscrew the 2 jets in the float chamber and check the condition to see if they meet factory manufacturing standards. Carburetor repair kits contain aluminum jets instead of brass and copper, which is not recommended for car operation.

On the solenoid valve, check the presence of the rod, the condition of the rubber ring of the gasket, blow it with air and screw it back, put the positive wire “female” on the terminal “folder”. The functionality of the “finger” can be checked by connecting the positive terminal to the positive of the battery, and the body to ground; if the rod clicks, this means that the valve opens.

Then we will check the operation of the starting device, everything should work perfectly here.

We will also check the correct installation of the rod to the lever on the throttle valve axis of the first chamber.

There should be a washer on the traction lever that comes from the accelerator pedal, be sure to check, if the washer is missing, then replace it. All parts must be assembled as originally intended and repeatedly tested in practice.

Then we pump gasoline into the float chamber through the fuel hose using a gasoline pump, install the top cover with the float and, after tightening 5 bolts, start the engine. Let it run a little and, turning off the engine, unscrew 5 bolts.

Let's remove the top roof again to check the fuel level in the float chamber; the jets should be submerged in gasoline.

Third stage of work

Then use a Phillips screwdriver to finally tighten the top carburetor cover with five bolts, not too tightly, but not too loosely, so that the cover does not hang loose and the threads are not stripped. Install the fuel hose and tighten it with a clamp.

Pay attention to the drainage tube of the INTAKE manifold, whether it is in its place, air is sucked through it in a dosed manner.

The tube is correctly installed in the letter “G” so that gasoline does not get into the EXHAUST manifold...

On the new VAZ 2107 “OZON” carburetors (DAAZ 2107-1107010-20) there is no drain tube on the intake manifold.

Then we start the engine to check proper operation. Use a screwdriver to adjust the idle speed and starting system; this adjustment should be done 1-2 times a year.

The final stage

If the threads on the 4 studs securing the air filter housing are broken, you need to replace them with repair ones and tighten them, dripping a little special liquid fixative onto the threads.

We place the lower filter housing and fasten it with 4 HIGH by 7 mm nuts with nylon so that it does not get sucked into the cylinders if it spins spontaneously due to engine vibration.

How does the Ozone carburetor work?

The VAZ 2106 “Ozone” carburetor is a two-chamber emulsion-type device with a falling flow. The first chamber is intended for the dosing system and enrichment device, in the second the mixture of fuel and air is created in the required ratio. What is the operation scheme of the Ozone carburetor?

The fuel pump directs fuel into the float chamber through a needle valve, which maintains the required level. Through the nozzles, the fuel enters the first and second chambers, and then into the emulsion wells, where it is mixed with air, also entering through the nozzles. The created mixture is supplied to the carburetor diffusers.

Immediately after the engine starts, the idle channel is closed by an electromagnetic valve, then at idle speed gasoline flows from the first chamber. As the fuel moves through the nozzle, it mixes with air. When the throttle valves open more (when you press the gas pedal), the resulting mixture goes into the carburetor float chambers, through the transition holes. Through the econostat, the mixture enters the atomizer, which directs it into the combustion chamber of the engine.

General view of the Ozone carburetor

How does a standard carburetor work?

The factory carburetor VAZ 2106 operates in the following mode: fuel is supplied to the distribution system of the product, which passes through a filter mesh and a needle-type valve connected through a cable to a float device. This makes it possible to regulate the required level of gasoline. Through the float device, the fuel, passing through the carburetor jets, enters the pipelines to create an emulsion, where it forms a mixture with the air flow entering through the VAZ 2106 carburetor jets for air. Next, the fuel-air mass, passing through a spray-type system, reaches diffuser devices of small and large diameters.

Then the emulsion mass is transferred to a channel, the diameter of which is regulated by moving the needle of the mixture quality screw, in which the final enrichment with oxygen is carried out before being fed into the starting system. The schematic diagram of the VAZ 2106 carburetor is below.

Here you can also see the structure of the carburetor, which is a very complex mechanical and electronic product. The main design feature of the VAZ 2106 carburetor is that this device is a combination of 2 separate and unrelated devices that operate independently of each other.

One of them serves the operation of such a component of the product as the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 carburetor, and the device includes a valve system of vacuum and electric vacuum operating principles, equipped with carburetor jets for fuel and air. Another mechanism is 2 fuel chambers, which start after the throttle valve begins to open (after pressing the accelerator pedal).

Although the systems are fairly autonomous complexes, their interaction in creating the fuel mixture significantly affects the fuel level in the float chamber. A change in the fuel level indicator affects the functionality of the product, because the adjustment parameters of the mechanism are lost. Thus, idle speed loses its control value, which leads to incorrect operation of the power plant.

Adjusting the drive

Checking the length between the tips. The required size is 80 millimeters.
If you deviate from this size, remove one tip.
Loosen its lock nut and by rotating adjust the distance to the desired size.
Tighten the nut and return the rod.
You need to check the adjustment. To do this, our assistant presses the gas pedal. We observe the throttle valve to see if it has opened completely.
If not, then you need to remove the tip from the lever and reduce the length of the rod.
Now you need to see what position the damper is in when the gas pedal is released: does it close completely. If not, the pull needs to be lengthened a little.
Next we work with the air damper. We weaken its drive. In the cabin, we completely recess the damper.
Press the three-arm lever so that the flap opens all the way. In this position, tighten the locking screw.
Checking the adjustment. To do this, we completely close and open the door from the passenger compartment again. If the damper has not opened completely, we carry out the adjustment again. If the outcome is positive, fully tighten the screw.

Adjusting the rods

An equally important stage in the process of adjusting the “six” carburetor is performed through the transitions:

Remove the air filter and its housing.
Measure the distance between the central points of the tips, it should be 80 mm .
To change the length of the rod, release the tip with a screwdriver and unscrew the lock nut with an “8” wrench, and then perform the adjustment by rotating the tip.
Tighten the fasteners and install the rod in its original place, start the engine and press the gas pedal all the way. If the throttle does not open completely, the damper has a travel reserve.

When asked how to further adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106, experts recommend performing a few more simple steps:

Remove the end of the longitudinal linkage and unscrew the locknut.
Reduce the length of the rod, secure it and again check the degree of opening of the damper by pressing the gas pedal to the floor. The damper must be completely closed.
If it is necessary to increase the rod length, you need to loosen the throttle cable.

Types of carburetors for VAZ 2106

On the assembly line, five types of carburetors were installed on the “sixes”:

DAAZ 2106-1107010. Mounted with 1.6-liter internal combustion engines on vehicles manufactured before 1980.
DAAZ 2103-1107010 "WEBER". Installed with 1.5-liter engines on cars manufactured before 1980.
DAAZ 2105-1107010-20 “OZONE”. Mounted with 1.1-1.3-liter internal combustion engines on cars produced in 1980-1991.
DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 “OZONE”. Mounted with 1.5-1.6-liter internal combustion engines on cars produced in 1980-1991.
DAAZ 21053-1107010 "SOLEX". Installed on all cars from 1991 to the end of the 90s.

The first two types of carburetors can be distinguished from other units by the absence of a pipe - a thin black or yellow hose running from the carburetor to the distributor - the ignition timing vacuum corrector hose is put on it.

You can distinguish “OZONE” from other types of devices by the “flying saucer” - a pneumatic drive for opening the second chamber. If there is no connection for the vacuum corrector hose, but there is a “flying saucer”, this is a DAAZ 2107-1107010-10 carburetor device. This unit is quite rare; it was installed only at service stations to replace the first two types of devices after they broke down.

Tenderloin - gasket

Cutting the gaskets is done as follows.
The paronite sheet, under which it is necessary to place a sheet of plywood, is lightly pressed with the head and the spindle is turned on at a speed of 3 - 4 rpm. When lowering the spindle with the mandrel, the cutting rollers, rolling along the paronite, cut out the gasket. During cutting, under the action of a compressed spring, the pressing head, remaining motionless, tightly presses the paronite sheet. This mandrel allows you to cut gaskets with a diameter of up to 300 mm. The gaskets are cut using both tools on a wooden backing. To reduce friction, the cutting edges must be moistened with soapy water during the cutting process.

Cutting the gaskets is done as follows. The paronite sheet, under which it is necessary to place a sheet of plywood, is lightly pressed with the head and the spindle is turned on at a speed of 3 - 4 rpm. When lowering the spindle with the mandrel, the cutting rollers, rolling along the paronite, cut out the gasket. During cutting, under the action of a compressed spring, the clamping head, remaining motionless, tightly presses the paront sheet. This mandrel allows you to cut gaskets with a diameter of up to 300 mm.

The gaskets are cut using both tools on a wooden backing. To reduce friction, the cutting edges must be moistened with soapy water during the cutting process.

Recommended length (in mm) of pipes with flanges.

Gaskets are cut out on drilling machines using special devices, as well as in cutting dies on driven mechanical and hydraulic presses.

Cutting mandrel for cutting gaskets.

Cutting out the gasket is done as follows: a sheet of gasket material is attached to the faceplate of the lathe. Depending on the width of the gasket, the corresponding transverse feed of the cutter is set. The transverse feed of the caliper is turned on. The cutter, moving from the center to the periphery, cuts out the gasket along the Archimedes spiral.

Universal tool for making round gaskets.| Circular saw for cutting discs and spacers.| Roller shears (zig machine.

Cutting out large gaskets can also be done using universal disc shears adapted for circular cutting, or using zig machines equipped with a special device for this purpose.

The gaskets are cut using a compass cutter or chisel; Rubber gaskets are cut out with a knife. Such gaskets provide a significantly worse seal and require significantly more material to manufacture. If there is a new gasket prepared, they begin to unscrew the flange connection, for which purpose the corresponding section of the pipeline is first turned off from work; place a bucket under the unscrewed flange connection to drain the liquid contained in the pipeline into it; the flanges are thoroughly cleaned of the remnants of the old gasket, two adjacent bolts are inserted; a new gasket, pre-treated accordingly, is inserted between the flanges; a correctly cut gasket will take the proper position if its edge touches both adjacent flange bolts; After applying the gasket, install the remaining bolts, put on the nuts and tighten them. The nuts on the bolts are tightened gradually, in sequential order, no more than 1/2 turn at a time.

The gasket for the frame of the seat cushion of a truck (size 430 X 880) is cut out of waterproof cardboard 2 mm thick in a knife stamp (Fig.

Hydraulic device for spreading flanges.| Gasket replacement device.

A variety of tools are used for cutting gaskets. The device is inserted into the drill chuck.

Hydraulic device for spreading flanges.

The design of the VAZ 2106 carburetor

High-quality independent maintenance of any vehicle system requires a detailed study of the components and mechanisms responsible for its operation.

Before adjusting the carburetor on the VAZ 2106, you need to consider the main units:

System for supplying and dosing the combustible mixture;
Control of mixture enrichment flaps, throttle position;
The structure of the float chamber and its main purpose;
Operation of the accelerator pump and idle mechanisms.

View of the carburetor from the throttle valve drive side: 1 - air damper; 2 — starting device; 3 — air damper control lever; 4 - telescopic rod; 5 — lever for driving the throttle valve of the primary chamber; 6 - lever that limits the opening of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber; 7 - return spring; 8 - rod connecting the throttle valve of the primary chamber with the air damper control lever; 9 — pneumatic drive rod; 10 - pneumatic drive.

The process occurs by filling the float chamber with fuel, which must have a stable level. The fuel is transferred to the spray mechanism, where, in turn, it is mixed with air in proportions of 1 to 15, the quality of the mixture is regulated by the throttle valve.

Preparing to adjust the carburetor

Car repair and maintenance requires prepared tools and space.

Setting up the carburetor of the six is no exception; for fast, competent work you need to carry out the following steps:

Before work, the car is placed on a flat surface, a place is prepared for disassembling components in the form of a table or a clean area. A container for washing and clean rags will definitely be needed.
Prepare a set of keys and screwdrivers; without tools, it will not be possible to carry out the work.
Purchase a repair kit from an auto parts store that contains all the O-rings, gaskets and mechanisms.
Disassembly and adjustment of the VAZ 2106 carburetor occurs after completing the tool and the necessary materials.

Removing and installing the carburetor

Before you begin removing the carburetor on the VAZ 2106, you must first remove the air filter. After this, it is necessary to completely remove its body, since it will also interfere. First, as usual, I will give a complete list of the necessary tools that will be needed to replace the carburetor:

Open-end wrench 13
crosshead screwdriver
Heads for 8 and 10
Ratchet handle or crank
Small extension cord

Repairing a faulty device

The procedure for dismantling the carburetor using the example of OZONE.

That's it. The collector must be covered with a cloth. From the removed device, you can unscrew the pneumatic drive of the second chamber and the accelerator pump cover. After this, the faulty parts should be replaced and the breakdowns described above in paragraphs 4 and 5 should be repaired.

If you don’t know how to clean a carburetor, we attach instructions from specialists.

Sources

https://avtovx.ru/karburator/soleks-na-vaz-2106-178/
https://expertvaz.ru/2106/strelyaet-neispravnosti-pochistit-karbyurator.html

Blitz tips and tricks

The efficiency of the engine and its dynamic performance depend on how the carburetor gaskets are installed, so if problems arise in the operation of this device, you must immediately begin replacing the gasket;
It is possible to make yourself not only a product from cardboard, but if you need a homemade textolite gasket, then it is made from a sheet of textolite of suitable thickness. In this case, the material is processed using special scissors;
If necessary, the rubber gasket for the pipe can be made of dense rubber of suitable thickness. Holes for bolts in the rubber gasket are made using a drill and twist drills, but the gasket must be securely fixed between two wooden boards;
Before purchasing a gasket in a store, you need to disassemble the carburetor and see what the part costs;
Thermal insulating gasket can be installed in the amount of 2 pieces, when a suitable thickness of the part cannot be found, or the textolite for self-production is not suitable for this parameter. Thermal insulation, in this case, is not compromised, and the unit can be used under normal load conditions.

Replacing the carburetor gasket or making it from cardboard will not be difficult, but you should be very careful about the selection of material, as well as the accuracy of manufacturing this part. After replacing the product, the carburetor is installed on the engine and the engine is test run, as a result of which it will be clear how correctly all repair operations were performed.

Picking apart the original gaskets led to the following conclusions: most likely they are made of dense high-quality metal asbestos mixed with black plastic similar to fluoroplastic.

I went to the local flea market over the weekend. I didn't find any metal asbestos. I found this:— Fiberboard

0.5 mm - well, very thick black cardboard.
The best option. I took a sheet - they didn’t give me less. - Electrocardboard
0.3 mm - less dense cardboard of a light brown color.
I took half a linear meter. - Fluoroplastic
0.5 mm - white FUM tape of maximum thickness, 10 cm wide. For the bottom gasket - just right. There is not enough width for medium spacers. You need at least 12 cm. I took 2 meters. Expensive. I think the thread will still be useful somewhere in everyday life.

The fluoroplastic tape was tested with a soldering hair dryer. The material calmly holds a temperature of 150 degrees, and begins to melt at a temperature of about 230 degrees. Just right for a carb! Easy to cut with nail scissors.

So I will make the bottom gasket from two materials - electrical cardboard and fluoroplastic. But the middle one will be made from fiberboard. Only to make it you need to select tubes... to punch straight holes. For these purposes, I found and put aside an old telescopic antenna. This evening I'll take it apart, cut and sharpen the tubes... I'll try to make holes with them. Maybe it will work out!

======Results: I abandoned fiberboard in favor of PMB paronite. The tape still flows under pressure and temperature. The only way out is to take strictly grade 4 fluoroplastic (high-temperature, from Dupont “Teflon”) and 2-5 mm thick. It should be taken into account that this lifts the carb and displaces its fastenings.

Material? Where to find?

As far as I remember, paronite can be used for these purposes. You choose a certain thickness and use punches to “create” holes. Cuts well with simple scissors. Heat resistant. Used on Soviet cars in garages

The fact is that I have at least two gaskets on my Solex carburetor. And one can be said to divide the carburetor in half and many people make it from cardboard, but it costs a penny in the store.

But the gasket that separates the carburetor from the manifold is most likely made of paronite.

And it’s really not easy to buy such a gasket. My car came from the factory without such a gasket, there was only one liner, and only then did I order such a gasket from the factory.

This is exactly what you can make yourself from paronite, and this was done before my eyes. And this process is not complicated, the main thing is that you have a suitable paronite plate.

Setting up the VAZ 2106 carburetor

On a VAZ 2106 car, idle adjustment should be carried out provided that all filters are clean (at least install a new air filter), the spark plugs are practically new, and the ignition system works perfectly

Please note that the air filter must be installed when adjusting the carburetor. You also need to take into account that the level in the float chamber must be adjusted in advance if necessary

Don't forget about the valve clearances either.

Adjusting the idle speed on a VAZ 2106 car occurs by rotating two screws - the quality and quantity of the fuel mixture. The procedure begins by turning the fuel mixture quality screw. This is done using a flat-head screwdriver to achieve the maximum engine crankshaft speed.

Then, turning the quantity screw, set the frequency to about 1100 revolutions. And the last step is to set the final idle speed at 800-900 by turning the mixture quality screw.

If the idle speed sensor does not work on a VAZ 2107 with an injector engine, this manifests itself in unstable operation at idle and during startup. In the event of a malfunction of the DZH, an emergency situation may be created, since it is not visible that the driver is backing up. The article provides instructions for replacing the DZH and IAC, and also includes photos.

Separate elements of repair of the “six” carburetor

Qualified carburetor repairs are carried out in specialized repair shops and car service stations in the presence of professional stands. However, some repair work can be done with your own hands if you have basic plumbing skills.

Thus, a number of malfunctions in the functionality of the product consist of clogging of fuel lines and small channels of small caliber carburetor jets, incl. and the presence of resin deposits from the fuel composition in them. This can be eliminated by washing the calibrated components and internal surfaces of the product with acetone or its analogues and blowing with a compressor under a pressure of about 4 kgf.

The idle system is most often subject to adjustment work and is usually carried out after traveling 8-10 thousand km. This type of work is carried out by establishing the positions of 2 bolts, the position of one of which determines the composition of the fuel mixture, and the second - its volumetric value. Requirements for starting adjustment: engine temperature – 85-90°C, antifreeze – 90-95°C, cylinder head valve clearances are adjusted, the throttle valve is closed, the ignition timing is determined according to the standard.

Progress:

The frequency value of the rotation of the crankshaft with the amount of fuel mixture is set within the range of 0.8-1 thousand rpm.
The percentage concentration of CO in the exhaust gases using the fuel mixture quality screw is set within the range of 0.5-1.2 cents.
The rotation speed value that was knocked down when setting the carbon monoxide level is regenerated within the limits of 0.8-1 thousand rpm.
It is also possible to restore the parameters of CO concentration.
Next, you need to sharply press the accelerator pedal and then release it from the force. The following picture should be observed: an increase in frequency occurs without interruption, a decrease in frequency leads to the fact that the power plant operates at low crankshaft speeds. If the engine stalls, you will need to re-adjust the engine crankshaft speed with a value of 0.8-1 thousand rpm.

Another common defect is that the VAZ 2106 carburetor does not start for the following reasons:

if the fuel lines are clogged, it is necessary to pump them with a compressor unit, and the gas tank should be washed and steamed;
If the fuel pump or carburetor mesh filter components are clogged, they must be cleaned, and if they are defective, they must be replaced.

There is also such a defect in the fuel system of the “six” when the VAZ 2106 carburetor shoots when starting the engine. If the carburetor and fuel pump are checked and are functioning correctly, then the VAZ 2106 spark plugs are to blame for this malfunction, the glow element of which is dirty or oily. They need to be cleaned, degreased, and, if necessary, replaced.

Sometimes, as an element of modernization of the “six”, a turbine is used on the carburetor, which, with the correct installation of this device, increases the power of the power plant. It is very important to correctly install and connect this device to improve the dynamic characteristics of the car.

Any VAZ 2106 carburetor, the price of which will differ depending on the manufacturer’s brand, is mounted on a vehicle with basic knowledge of plumbing. Therefore, carburetor installation is easy for car enthusiasts; it is much more difficult to make the correct adjustments to this product.

As a last resort, if the old spare part does not meet environmental requirements, allows increased fuel consumption, does not maintain idle speed and cannot be repaired, the carburetor must be replaced with a new product and then adjusted.

What's the result?

Taking into account the fact that it is not possible to consider all types of engine gaskets separately within the framework of one article, only the main seals that are used in internal combustion engines were mentioned above.

If we continue the list, we can note the oil pan gasket, sealing rings for injection nozzles, carburetor gaskets, valve stem seals and a number of other products with similar purposes. The elements have different shapes; dozens of similar parts are used everywhere in the engine design.

As a rule, there are entire repair kits (repair kits) of gaskets for different cars on sale.

It is important to understand that for each type and model of engine, even from the same manufacturer, the gaskets and seals are different. For this reason, it is necessary to accurately select the necessary parts and elements from the original spare parts catalogs for a specific car model, taking into account the year of manufacture, type of internal combustion engine, etc.