Reversing lights do not work VAZ 2112 16 valves

On all cars of the Tenth Family, the power lines for the lights contain many elements. There are lamp health relays, switches and fuses. Therefore, if the brake lights on a VAZ-2112 do not light up, you need to check the entire chain. But the reason may look simple: sometimes the lamps do not turn on because the socket does not contact ground. Circuits are easy to analyze, but finding the cause of a breakdown is difficult. Let's look into the details.

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

Why do the brake lights on the VAZ-2112 not light up or work, what should I do?

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

Standard version of the brake light operating diagram

Power is supplied to fuse F17 from the battery, then the current goes to limit switch contact 11, and then, if the limit switch is closed, a circuit is formed with the filament of lamps 7. But note: part of the circuit is relay K1, more precisely, its contacts 5 and 4.

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

A few words about the “serviceability relay”

The lamp health relay is called K1, and it is the largest in the mounting block. If you remove this relay, then when you press the pedal you can dial the voltage at terminal 5 (but not 4). Look at the diagram again, and it will become clear what we are talking about.

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

6 – “mass” potential;
2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

If the potential “0” is not generated at terminal “4,” it means that the lamp filaments are burnt out or there is a break in the wiring. Now consider something else: the ground potential has been detected, but the lamps do not light. This is where suspicions of a short circuit arise.

Changes in switching and layout of mounting blocks

As we have already said, at various times the plant modernized the vehicle’s electrical equipment system and, naturally, made changes to the layout of the mounting blocks.

So, in the first ten years of production, the fog light fuse was located immediately behind the main unit, without any board, it simply hung on the wiring harness. Later it was moved first to a separate board on the left side of the center console, and then to the main mounting block.

As a result, the layout of the block has changed. The mounting block for 7 relays has catalog number 2110-3722010-08 , the block for 6 relays is marked 2110-3722010, and the newest block received the article number 2110-3722010-01 . In addition, there are blocks without legs for the relay for switching on the front optics K1 ( 2110-3722010-12 ), there is a block with legs, but without a relay (the legs are connected by jumpers and in order to install the head light relay yourself, the jumpers need to be cut), but mostly you come across blocks with legs for relays without jumpers. They involve either installing relay K1 or removable jumpers.

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.

Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights

On the left side there is a connector through which the wiring goes to the fifth door. The connector has black and red wires. Check the voltages on them. Most often the ground on the black wire does not ring. But maybe the connector itself needs to be cleaned.

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

Disconnect the connector with two wires from the limit switch;
Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the lower nut, rotate the upper one;

By the way, one of the connector terminals receives a voltage of “12 Volts”. Check it!

If all the steps do not lead to results, there is only one thing left: contact a qualified electrician. We wish you success.

Source

DOMOSTROYPlumbing and construction

Both reverse lights are off

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There may be few reasons. The lamps are burnt out, the fuse is blown, the sensor is faulty or the wire to it is torn off.

Can you tell me in simple terms, with the gear off and the circuit breaker closed, should it light up, or only with the gear on?

Leaving your garage one evening, you notice that nothing lights the way. The situation, frankly speaking, is unpleasant and makes you think about it. After all, the rear lights of a VAZ 2110 should be on in normal mode. This means that there is some kind of malfunction that needs to be found and eliminated. Who knows what the reason is, we will have to figure it out. If the reverse lights of a VAZ 2110 do not light up, then, in all likelihood, it is possible that they have simply burned out. Maybe it's a simple failure of a fuse or sensor.

Other tuning ideas

As mentioned above, all lamps in lanterns can be replaced with LED ones. And not just remove incandescent lamps and install LED ones, but use LED modules or strip. Otherwise, the appearance of LED lights will not differ from ordinary ones. Installation of LED modules may look like this:

LED modules in side/fog lights

And using an LED strip you can do this:

Options for tuning taillights with LED strip

You can simply tint the lights, completely changing the appearance of the car, and it is easier to apply the tint to the outside of the glass. This will allow you not to disassemble the light devices or even remove them from the car.

Tinted rear lights VAZ 2112

And finally, a short video demonstrating the capabilities of LED modules that can be used to tune the rear light fixtures of a VAZ 2112.

This concludes the conversation about the rear lights of the VAZ 2112. Now we can easily remove these lighting devices, if necessary, repair them, modify them, or simply replace a burnt-out light bulb in the lanterns.

Reasons why the reverse lamps do not light up

It is not difficult to see that when the reverse light on a VAZ2110 does not light up, the reasons can be of a very different nature. But be that as it may, everything needs to be corrected, and for this the cause must be eliminated.

To do this you need to do the following:

It is necessary to determine the condition of fuse No. 19. It is designed for a power of 7.5 A. Its location is the rear light board of the VAZ 2110 mounting block under the dashboard.
Next you need to make sure that the light bulbs are working properly. If it turns out that there are no problems with them, you need to check the reverse sensor.

In the latter case, the question of its location may arise. When viewing the car from the front, it is on the right side. If we consider it in projection in the direction of travel, then it will be located in the gearbox, in its lower left part.

Car enthusiasts gave this sensor its name, calling it a frog. It is nothing more than a regular switch. The gearbox has a hole where this sensor is placed. Its working surface looks inside the box. From the outside, in the normal position, the contacts are open. When reverse gear is engaged, a special shield presses on the working surface of the sensor, which leads to the closure of the contacts. This provides power to the reversing lights. The sensor differs from a conventional switch in its special design. The device is sealed and resistant to significant mechanical loads.

Location and type of lamps

The rear light of the VAZ 2112 is double - one part has a square shape, is located in the trunk door and is located closer to the central axis of the car. The location of the light bulbs in this device is as follows:

Location and purpose of light bulbs in the left rear light fixture of the VAZ 2112

In the photo the numbers indicate:

Reverse signal lamp.
Brake signal lamp.

Both bulbs are regular P21W incandescent bulbs. The power of each is 21 W.

Lamp type P21W

The second part of the lamp is located closer to the side, has an angular shape and is located in the body. The purpose and location of the lamps in it is as follows:

Corner rear left lamp VAZ 2112 - purpose and location of lamps

Here:

Side light.
Rear fog light.
Turn indicator.

P21W lamps with a power of 21 W are responsible for the fog light and turn signal. A photo of lamps of this type is shown above. For the side light, a miniature incandescent lamp type T4W with a power of 4 W is used.

Tail light bulb VAZ 2112 type T4W

Checking the functionality of the sensor (frog)

When you manage to find it, you need to check its performance status:

The wires connected to it must be disconnected.
A tester is connected to their ends. The device is switched to “resistance” mode and the measurement is carried out.
Then reverse gear is engaged.
The ignition is switched to the on state.
The instrument readings are taken.

The device may show 0 Ohm. This means that there are no problems with it. If there are other indicators, it needs to be replaced. This must be done not only when the VAZ 2110 does not have reverse gear on, but also when the lights are on and reverse gear is not engaged.

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Any electrical circuit in any modern and not so modern car must be protected from short circuits. The VAZ-2110 is not the most technologically advanced car, but there is still progress in the layout of electrical equipment elements. Compared to classic VAZ models. One of the positive changes in the arrangement of elements was the use of combined blocks in which fuses and relays are grouped. On the classic, all this was scattered throughout the cabin and along the entire front panel. It has become more convenient to maintain and troubleshoot relays and fuses, which is what we will do now.

Algorithm of actions when replacing a sensor

Changing it is not particularly difficult, but you need to do the following:

To replace the car, you need to put it in a pit or drive it onto an overpass.
If there is engine protection, it must be removed.
You should first prepare some kind of container for the oil, since the moment the sensor is unscrewed, a certain part of the oil will leak out.
Then you need to unscrew the wires that are connected to the sensor.
The old sensor must be removed and a new device installed in its place.
The oil that leaked out during the sensor replacement process must be added to the box.
Next, the wires are connected. They must first be wiped dry to remove any oil that has got on them.
Then you should start the car and check for light from the bulbs when reverse is engaged.

Such measures are one of the options for eliminating the problem in which the reverse lights of the VAZ 2110 do not light up.

Other causes of rear light malfunctions

But it may also happen that the reverse light on the VAZ 2110 does not light up, and the sensor is not the reason for this. Then it might be a nutritional issue. It also needs to be checked. When turned on, no power is supplied, which means you should look for a break in the wiring. Check the area where the fuse is connected to the sensor and the section where the sensor is connected to the lamp.

When reverse gear is engaged on a VAZ 2110, the white light bulbs should light up at the same time.

Their purpose is to perform the following functions:

parking is much more convenient with lit lights;
burning lights give pedestrians an indication that the car is about to reverse;
Reversing lights are used to prevent emergency situations.

If a problem arises in which the reverse lights do not turn on, you can try to fix the problem yourself, or contact a car service center.

The problem can be resolved on your own, since the reasons for this, as a rule, are the following situations:

The light bulb just burned out. In this case, it must be replaced. But before replacing, it is recommended to check the integrity of the wiring in order to eliminate the possibility of a situation in which a short circuit occurs.
The reason may also be that there is no voltage on the flashlight board.
The fuse that is installed to protect against short circuit has blown. It just needs to be changed. The fuse doesn't just blow. This means that this is due to some problem in the circuit. To do this, you need to “ring” each section and determine the location of the problem.
Contacts may burn. Because of this, the light bulb will stop lighting. In this case, the burnt contacts should be cleaned.
It is possible that the electrical cable is damaged. A malfunction can be detected by visual inspection or instrumentally using a multimeter.
If the car is operated for a long time in conditions of high humidity, this can lead to oxidation of the contacts. As a result, the reversing lights will no longer work normally.
The reason may lie in the incorrect operation of the gearbox mechanism. It is this mechanism that should lead to the inclusion of the rear lights.
The malfunction may be caused by a broken reverse sensor. It is not at all necessary to take your car for professional diagnostics. You can check its performance yourself. To do this, the sensor must be removed and the ends of the wires connected to each other. If the light starts to light up, then the problem is in the sensor.

Main relays and fuses

The main fuses and relays on the VAZ-2110, 21102, 21103, 2112 are located on the left side of the steering wheel, just below. The figure shows the symbols on the fuse mounting block.

Location of relays and fuses in the mounting block

Relay Description:

K1 – lamp health monitoring relay;
K2 – windshield wiper relay;
K3 – relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights;
K4 – headlight low beam relay;
K5 – headlight high beam relay;
K6 – additional relay;
K7 – relay for turning on the heated rear window;
K8 – backup relay (not installed on vehicles of the VAZ-2110 family);

F1–F20 – fuses - almost all vehicle circuits are protected by fuses designed for different rated currents. Exceptions are the following circuits: battery charging circuit, generator circuit (except for the field winding), ignition and engine starting. To locate the faulty fuse, use the table of circuits protected by fuses. Before this, it is necessary to find the cause of the blown fuse, eliminate it, and only then install a new fuse.

The table shows the circuits that each fuse protects, but on each model some of them may be missing due to the lack of certain devices (power windows, lock drives, etc.)

Do not replace fuses with jumpers. This can lead to failure of various devices.

Most fuses and auxiliary relays are located in a separate mounting block (Fig. Location of relays and fuses in the mounting block), built into the instrument panel on the left side of the steering column. The conventional numbers of the plugs in the connecting blocks of the mounting block and the colors of the wires connected to them are shown in Fig. The order of conventional numbering of plugs in the connecting blocks of the mounting block and the colors of the wires connected to them. The diagram of the internal connections of the mounting block is shown in Fig. Connection diagram of the mounting block.

Modification of the rear lights of the VAZ 2110

Often, to fix the problem, it is necessary to modify the rear lights of the VAZ 2110. To do this, you first need to dismantle the old reverse lights. If the lamp simply burns out, then replacing it will not be a problem.

It won't be difficult to replace a blown fuse. But replacing a failed sensor is much more difficult. The algorithm of actions has already been announced within the framework of this article. But to replace it, you will need to drive the car into a pit or overpass. Without this, fixing the problem will be problematic.

Having read this review, the reader now has an idea of what could cause the reverse lights to turn off. If practical skills allow, this problem can be solved independently. Anyone who is not very familiar with the structure of the car and does not have practical repair skills is recommended to contact a service center, where qualified specialists will help solve the problem.

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

How to improve stock lights

In principle, the rear lights of the VAZ 2112 have optimal lighting characteristics, so there is no need to improve anything particularly. The only thing you can do is improve their appearance somewhat and make them more economical by replacing incandescent lamps with LEDs. The easiest (but not the cheapest) way to change the appearance of the lights is to replace them with more original ones. For example, on the so-called “sticks”.

The rear stick lights look much more presentable than the standard ones

How to remove tail lights and disassemble them

But if we want to start tuning the standard lights, we first need to remove and disassemble them.

Back light

The rear light, which is responsible for the brake light and reverse gear, can be easily removed. Open the trunk door and disconnect the power supply from the lamp.

Removing the power supply from the rear light of a VAZ 2112

Squeeze the clamps and remove the panel with the board and lamps.

Removing the canopy panel

Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the 2 nuts that secure the device.

Rear light fastening nuts

Loosen 3 nuts securing the decorative reflective trim, and unscrew the fourth one, located closer to the lamp being removed, completely.

Partial dismantling of the decorative trim

Lift the cover and take out the flashlight.

The taillight can now be removed

Corner lantern

Open the trunk door and unscrew the four screws securing the trunk trim closer to the light being removed - two from the bottom, two from the side.

Partial removal of trunk upholstery

We bend the upholstery and see the back of the lamp.

The corner lamp of the VAZ 2112 is located behind the upholstery

Remove the power supply from the device.

Removing the power supply

Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the light fixture.

These nuts secure the taillight

We push the device back in the direction of travel of the car and remove it from the body.

Removing the corner lamp VAZ 2112

How to disassemble

Unfortunately, the rear lights of the VAZ 2112 are non-separable, so you will have to break them, not disassemble them, but in such a way that they can be repaired later. This can be done in two ways: sawing the body or cutting it with a hot knife. In the first case, it is convenient to use circular attachments on a drill. If you don’t have attachments and don’t want to buy them, you can use a piece of a regular hacksaw blade for metal.

Cutting a lantern with a circular nozzle

To implement the second method, you will need a knife and a gas stove. Heat the knife and cut the lantern around the perimeter. After removing the glass, we clean all melted areas with a file. Barbarism, of course, but it works.

Disassembling the rear light using a hot knife

Assembling the lantern is easier - just connect the halves and fill it with glue, for example, “Moment” or similar. To prevent the lantern from falling apart while the glue dries, you can first grab the parts with a soldering iron at several points.

Assembly of the rear light device VAZ 2112

Standard version of the brake light operating diagram

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

A few words about the “serviceability relay”

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

6 – “mass” potential;
2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

Diagram of the VAZ engine management system with BOSCH controller - ECM 21104 1.6 16V

1 – block of the ignition coil wiring harness to the ignition system harness; 2 – block of the ignition system harness to the ignition coil wiring harness; 3 – ignition coils; 4 – immobilizer warning sensor; 5 – immobilizer control unit; 6 – spark plugs; 7 – nozzles; 8 – diagnostic block; 9 – block of the ignition system harness to the ABS cabin group harness; 10 – controller; 11 – electric fuel pump; 12 – block of the ignition system harness to the fuel level sensor harness; 13 – fuel level sensor harness connector to the ignition system harness; 14 – block of the ignition system harness to the injector harness; 15 – injector harness block to the ignition system harness; 16 – block of the ignition system harness to the side door harness; 17 – speed sensor; 18 – idle speed regulator; 19 – throttle position sensor; 20 – coolant temperature sensor; 21 – mass air flow sensor; 22 – oil pressure warning lamp sensor; 23 – phase sensor; 24 – oxygen sensor; 25 – crankshaft position sensor; 26 — knock sensor; 27 – solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 28 – oil level sensor; 29 – coolant temperature indicator sensor; 30 – block of the ignition system harness to the instrument panel harness; 31 – instrument panel harness connector to the ignition system harness; 32 – ignition relay; 33 – ignition relay fuse; 34 – fuse for the electric fuel pump power supply circuit; 35 – electric fuel pump relay; 36 – electric fan relay; 37 – controller power supply fuse; 38 – ignition system harness block to the air conditioner connector; 39 – instrument cluster; 40 – ignition switch; 41 – electric fan of the cooling system; 42 – on-board control system unit; 43 – starter relay; 44 – contacts of the 8-terminal blocks of the instrument panel harness and the front harness; 45 – contacts of the 21-terminal blocks of the instrument panel harness and the rear harness; 46 – trip computer; 47 – diagnostic connector.

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.