How to Install Linings on Arches of VAZ 2114

Published on August 29, 2016

Car body repair in the garage.
VAZ 2114, changing the rear wing #2. Body repair. Details on my website. I will delete comments with obscenities and insults. Questions about price will remain unanswered. A channel about car repairs and more. There were exactly the same problems with the same wing. I danced with all my heart, I remember. We have for sale complete 2109 rear quarters complete with arch, fender and all the internals. It seemed to me that they had a better quality stamp on them. And the metal itself. True, the cost is certainly higher than that of such a wing.

Andrey, thanks for the video!

Can't you buy another one?

wing I mean

Why do you need these problems? Let the owner think about what to do with the wing

Thank you, good video about a good repair)))))

Great job. Anyone else would not have remade it; they would have welded the spare part as is. I wish there were more such masters!

Decent job. Like

Two weeks ago. a similar situation with the wing. the edge was bent, it was wider. spare parts are not substandard.

How I envy those painters who receive cars after your work. All they have to do is just paint, without any effort on putty))) LIKE as always.

Is it possible to replace the wing with a similar one? give out the sizes, show where to measure.. let them look, right?

Yes, it's already stretched into two parts

Good work, although such body work is a big pain in the ass. Which contact is used, 220 or 380?

what company is your resistance welding please show in the next video very interesting thank you in advance

Excellent, in fact, as always!

It's a pain in the ass, but as always you found the right solution, thank you!

Even the great masters Andrey and Vitalya learn from each other! Just victories for everyone.

The work is excellent. (and Andryukha doesn’t have it any other way) it’s nice to see, considering that every day you have to do the same thing yourself. In Ukraine, almost all VAZ auto body work is like this, and that’s how we work all the time. And this despite the fact that suppliers assure that these parts were removed yesterday, through great influence, directly from the assembly line. It’s especially fun to listen to such nonsense when the client is sold trinkets for a penny and similar cars.

Andrey, Super! As always on top! I would call the second part: “Collect what cannot be collected. ".

It’s not surprising that the trunk lid rotates so much, it still doesn’t have glass. Although I don’t feel like this on my cadet, the metal there is noticeably thicker; in 1983 they didn’t spare iron.

Well done . EVERYTHING IS EXCELLENT AS ALWAYS

Linings for the rear arches of the VAZ 2114

Tuning... and a wide smile... :)) Blog... come on.
I moved it from the blog to the logbook, that’s more accurate. I decided to share my experience of installing linings on the wing arches. When I decided to do it, I couldn’t find almost anything useful for myself on the Internet (I didn’t search well), hence some difficulties. For the story and for the seemingly technical solutions, don’t blame me, I’m not a pro and not even an amateur :))

Preliminary preparation. My wing arches are quite, that is, in decent condition, except for the driver's front (the edge to which the fender liner is attached has practically fallen off). Immediately after purchase, the machine was very well processed. I took it in January 2005, in the showroom :)) But, in a circle, although not much, the paint swells (only around the fender liners). My opinion: these protective fender liners are the cause of corrosion, which begins from the attachment points, IMHO. In general, we clean the farm from dirt and rust. Used: skins, rust converter, applied epoxy primer, Movil

I bought the pads for my 14, just like in the photo from the Internet,

At the car market for 400 rubles, for painting. Retreat. I will write - as I would do now, having some experience, but with a commentary - as it really was.

First. Why the main problems are the GEOMETRY and SIZES of the overlays, Therefore, try on and try on so that they fit according to the max, But this is not always possible (for example, the seller will not allow you to choose) I took the first ones I came across, tightly wrapped in tape... Not a single one hit the mark place. Let me note that you can make a mistake and confuse the left with the right, especially considering that the geometry and dimensions turned out to be INCORRECT.

Second. CUSTOMIZE first and then PAINT. Your humble servant did the opposite. First I painted it. About painting. I used a can of HOLEX - 220 rubles (after painting there was a lot left), instead of primer, gray paint for HI-Gear bumpers (was), KUDO varnish - 150 rubles (easy to apply, hard to put on the snot) There are no plans to polish.

I adjusted the already painted ones to the place. The rear ones were sawed out and ground down (they turned out to be somehow much shorter and the bend was steeper) The front ones: the left one is longer, the right one is shorter, the bend is normal (almost)

Third. Main. We have painted and fitted overlays. It is necessary to glue... What I found on the Internet, polyurethane adhesive-sealant is well suited for these purposes, I bought KRASS glue at a hardware store for about 500 rubles.

In stores there is polyurethane adhesive for gluing car windows, it’s cheaper and maybe it’s better! It didn’t immediately occur to me... Applying it in place, I outlined it with a pencil, then MATTED it with fine sandpaper (r600-r1000, whichever it was) The difficulty is the edge of the matte, you must not go beyond the outline boundary

I couldn’t glue it right away, the glue took quite a long time to dry and I don’t know how to press it (someone in a similar situation, in a garage, pinned it with sticks against the walls :)) After scratching the back of my head, I found a solution, albeit a banal one: I decided to use good double-sided tape. I bought (I don’t remember, about three hundred or a little more than two hundred rubles) 10 meters long, 12 mm wide and 1.1 mm thick, which is not enough. I had to lay it in four layers, because the linings have a recess on the inside (it’s not the same, it’s slightly different on different linings) So. Four layers of tape ON THE TOP EDGE, below (squeezed out with a gun) LOOP, 15-20 mm wide polyurethane GLUE-SEALANT. Ha! With this composition, the linings are perfect! I secured it from below with a temporary self-tapping screw and some masking tape. Let it dry. There's probably an ambush waiting here :)) The edges of the pads don't really fit and want to come off. I have. relatively, two or three such edges fit tightly.

Later, I managed to glue ONE edge with POXIPOL (another 230 rubles) The others are pressed with force and I decided not to suffer... In general, the resulting small (1.5-2.5 mm) cracks were later filled with the same polyurethane, so that dirt, salt, etc. water and, as a result, these labor-intensive overlays did not begin to tear off from these places :))

Fourth. The last one :)) To eliminate or at least reduce the likelihood of tearing off. In addition to gluing the edges, I PAINTED the junction of the trim and the wing (the upper edge) with a very small brush with the paint that the trims are painted with. All!

Manufacturer: DM Tuning
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Length: 60 cm x Width: 16 cm x Height: 10 cm
Weight: 1.50 kg
Product code: 13376

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Arches on VAZ 2114 photo

Tuning... and a wide smile... :)) Blog... come on. I moved it from the blog to the logbook, that’s more accurate.

I decided to share my experience of installing linings on the wing arches. When I decided to do it, I couldn’t find almost anything useful for myself on the Internet (I didn’t search well), hence some difficulties. For the story and for the seemingly technical solutions, don’t blame me, I’m not a pro and not even an amateur :))

I bought the pads for my 14, just like in the photo from the Internet,

At the car market for 400 rubles, for painting. Retreat. I will write - as I would do now, having some experience, but with a commentary - as it really was.

What are universal wheel arch covers?

Wheel arches are often considered by most drivers to be the inner parts of the wings, although they are different parts of the car body. The wheels of the car are “hidden” in the arches; they protect the remaining elements of the body from impacts from stones and the adhesion of dirt.

The arches themselves are subject to aggressive environmental influences; the edges of the part are the first to be destroyed, and over time they rust and become deformed. There are special parts for protection. Their second name is wheel arch extensions or fenders.

Arch extensions are classified into three groups:

Original spare parts. Parts are intended only for a certain brand of car, for example, standard fender flares for the VAZ 2114 and their replicas.
Homemade, made with your own hands.
Universal. Suitable for almost any car, not only the VAZ model range. Replicas are made to a specific shape from plastic or rubber.

Protection of wheel arches from corrosion.
Preventing small chips and scratches of the paintwork resulting from the ejection of dirt and stones from under the wheels. Due to the peculiarities of the configuration, the modifications most susceptible to damage are the VAZ 2109 and the restyled version 21099.
Protection of thresholds, fenders, car doors from dirt.
Improved appearance. Fenders give the car a more brutal look. For example, for the VAZ 2115, the fender arches of an exclusive design have an additional extension that is connected to the body kit.

Universal rubber expanders are a budget-friendly, easy-to-install option. They are produced in rolls of 5, 10 or more meters, the price for 1 meter starts from 50 rubles. They are very easy to install - just measure, cut the required length, and glue.

Rubber fenders do not improve the appearance of the car. Their only function is to protect car body elements from aggressive environmental influences. You can install a spare part in 20 minutes by gluing the part with special glue.

Plastic lining for the arches of the VAZ 2114 is also a budget option, but more labor-intensive. The elements are made of ABC plastic, polystyrene with the addition of hardeners, and have different thicknesses and arc shapes.

Unlike rubber fenders, plastic fenders, in addition to protection, serve as tuning elements and improve the appearance of the car.

Preparation for wing replacement and necessary tools

First you need to prepare the car itself. To do this, he should drive the VAZ 2114 into a technical pit or overpass. If this is not possible, then it will be enough to simply lift it with a jack on the side from which the wing will be replaced and securely fix it in this position. Next, you need to remove the wheel and remove all interfering parts. These include:

front bumper;
facing linings;
thresholds;
wheel arch liners

Replacing the wing of a VAZ 2114: how to prepare the car and what tools are needed

Before removing the wing of the VAZ 2114, you should prepare the car and collect the necessary tools.

The car needs to be driven into a technical pit/overpass, and if this is not possible, jacked up on the side from which you are going to change the wing.

The car should be securely fixed in this position.

After this, you can remove the wheel and all parts that may interfere with the process, namely:

front bumper;
facing linings;
wheel arch liners;
thresholds.

Before removing the bumper, be sure to disconnect the contacts of the fog lights. To avoid damaging the car’s electronics, remove the “-” terminal on the battery.

Of the tools that you will need to quickly replace the front fender, you will need the following:

Set of wrenches.
Set of spanners.
Extension.
Phillips screwdriver.
Pliers.
Knife.

It should be noted that in the process of replacing a wing, not all of the above tools may be needed. It will be enough for an experienced master to have only a few of them on hand. However, if this is your first time deciding to remove the wing yourself, then it is better to prepare the entire kit so that during the work you will not be distracted by searching for the missing tools.

Replacement procedure

So, the need to replace the wheel arch liners on your car has been determined. You also managed to correctly select a set of new arched elements. You can start replacing.

You will need to purchase:

Set of fender liners for front and rear wheels;
Body 90 type product. This is a bituminous material with anti-gravel and anti-corrosion properties. It is applied with a simple brush or spray;
Degreaser;
Brushes;
Self-tapping screws.

Fender liner kit
We replace the fender liner:

Try to wash the car thoroughly, paying special attention to the fender liners.
It is better to start dismantling work from the rear arches.
Loosen the wheel bolts, jack up the desired wheel, and remove it.
There is no need to remove the spring, brake disc or boot. But wrapping them in protective film or simple bags is a completely unnecessary undertaking.
Now use a brush and water to wash away any remaining dirt that you could not get rid of during the car wash process.
Let the car dry thoroughly.
Now soak a rag in degreaser and treat the arches. There is no point in sparing the remedy.
Again, wait until the product dries.
Apply a coat of Body 910. You may have to change brushes as one is unlikely to be enough for you.
The bitumen-based product must dry.
Now attach the fender liner, press it as tightly as possible to the wheel arch. This must be done in order to mark the screws.
Having made the markings, you can proceed directly to installing new arched protective elements. Use a screwdriver if possible. Working with a simple screwdriver is quite difficult, but possible.
Apply a little more bitumen-based product to the resulting seams.
Now you can remove the bags and films from the units, put the wheel in place, lower the jack and proceed to the next one.
Using a similar method, the wheel arch liners of each of the four wheels are changed. It is better to enlist the support of a friend, since some steps are extremely difficult to complete on your own. First of all, this concerns applying markings to the fender liners. There you will have to carefully, evenly and tightly press the fender liner, plus at the same time work with a marker. Two hands are clearly not enough here.

The procedure for replacing fender liners is not complicated, but it requires a fairly large amount of free time.

It is worth adding that the factory front fender liners do not completely cover the wheel arches, but they cover the area under the front bumper better than their analogues.

Therefore, it is better to give preference to the originals. Although some analogues from other manufacturers have their advantages. Here, take into account your own judgments in this regard.

How to replace the rear wing on a VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115?

Removal: It is removed, as you already understood, it is not as easy as the front one, for example, because the rear wing is held on by welding, you will only need to cut off part of the wing in any place convenient for you and put a new wing in the same place (Usually the rear wings are sold in different sizes, that is, you can find a whole wing from top to bottom, or you can just find a wing that you insert into the middle and it won’t reach the very bottom, but it’s better to take the entire wing and then it adjust, cutting off not much at a time), it is best to cut off as we mentioned earlier, either with a grinder or with a reciprocating saw, as soon as the wing is cut off, remove it from the car and take sandpaper in your hands and if you find rust on the body, then remove as much of it as you can using sandpaper and another primer, and then apply paint so that the body rots less.

Note! When replacing a wing, remove all parts that interfere with its cutting, for example, remove the mirror from this wing so as not to damage it (The mirror at the rear wing can be removed like a windshield, so read the article on replacing the windshield and study it in detail, after studying you and the glass in exactly the same way, remove from the wing: “Replacing the windshield on a VAZ”), also if the rear light is in the way, then remove it too (For information on how to remove the light, read the article: “Replacing the rear light on a car”) and You will also have to remove the trim from the trunk, you can simply burn it when you weld the wing to the car body!

Installation: The wing is installed using the fitting method, that is, at the beginning it is fixed with screws and looks from the side to see if the wing fits or does not fit smoothly (pay special attention to the gaps), the excess part from the wing always needs to be cut off and as soon as it gets to the point where the wing is all straight, start welding it, as soon as the work of welding the wing is completed, clean all those places where the welding is visible and level these places (you can use the same sandpaper to level the welding place), then prime the wing (Primer is like paint if you don’t know yet, it should be applied first and only after that, the paint itself should lie on it) and paint it in the color you want, for clarity, the rear wing welded to the body can be seen in two photographs below, they even show the places where the wing is welded to the body.

Additional video clip: You can clearly see the process of replacing the rear wing in the video located just below, it doesn’t show much of everything, but the process of replacing the rear wing with a new one is explained in detail.

Note! Another rather interesting video on how to weld the rear wing to a car is located just below, but in this video, as you can see, a VAZ 21099 car is used, but it will not have much difference with cars of the Samara 2 family and therefore do not pay attention special attention to the fact that in the video there is another car, not from the Samara 2 family!

Replacing the front wing: algorithm of actions

To ensure that removing the wing of the VAZ 2114 does not cause any special problems, you should perform all the steps following the following sequence:

Remove the front fender liner from the desired side.

The two nuts in the bumper mount are unscrewed, and then the edge of the bumper itself is lowered down. The front part of the sill trim is removed.

The covering on the headlight is removed. The turn signal on the headlight is removed. The side turn signal is removed. To do this, you need to squeeze its latch, disconnect the turn signal, pull out the base along with the light bulb and push it under the wing (inside).

Removing the side turn signal

Unscrew the self-tapping screw that secures the wing to the bracket (a 10mm wrench is suitable for this). The screw that secures the wing under the threshold is unscrewed. The two self-tapping screws fastening to the strut are screwed in (they are located on the inside of the front fender). Unscrew the screws (4 pcs.), with the help of which the upper part of the wing is attached to the body. A layer of sealant is cut along the upper flange of the wing; it is best to use a sharp knife for this).

Now the front wing of the VAZ 2114 can be easily removed.

Unscrewed wing of the VAZ 2114 To install the wing in place, you should perform all the steps listed above in reverse order.

Please note that it is advisable to install new insulating gaskets when replacing the front fender. During the installation of the wing, it is necessary (before the final tightening of the screws) to set horizontal and vertical gaps around the wing relative to the hood and door

During the installation of the wing, it is necessary (before the final tightening of the screws) to set horizontal and vertical gaps around the wing relative to the hood and door.

Experts recommend treating the replacement area with an anti-corrosion compound. This will make the joint durable, and, as a result, will protect car parts from premature wear. It is also advisable to treat the entire inner surface of the newly installed wing with a special anti-corrosion compound.

As can be seen from the information presented here, the entire process of replacing the wing on a VAZ 2114 cannot be called complicated. If desired, each car enthusiast can independently cope with this task, significantly saving on contacting specialists.

The situation is greatly simplified due to the fact that the replacement does not require any special tools or equipment.

Taking this into account, we recommend that you proceed with the replacement on your own without fear. When the work is finished, you will have an additional reason to praise yourself for being one step closer to being called a real master.

How to remove the rear wing

The rear wing on the VAZ 2114 is attached to the load-bearing parts of the body by spot welding. Dismantling and replacement require skills in welding and the presence of a semi-automatic welding machine to install a new element. If the rear fender has a significant dent from an impact, the metal will need to be pulled out before dismantling and cutting. Dismantling process step by step:

Prepare the car: remove the battery, bend the carpet.
Empty the trunk.
Unscrew the rear bumper and disconnect the headlight unit. If the right rear is to be replaced, then the fuel tank must be removed.
Remove the seal.
If you are making a cut for a repair insert, then you need to remove the side glass: pull out the rubber seal and press out the glass. During installation, the seat is processed and the old sealant is cut out.
Using a thin chisel or machine, cut out the old part, retreating 1-1.5 cm from the joint.
Drill out the welding points with the frame cross member.
Disconnect the part.
Cut off the remaining metal, grind it, straighten the edge.
Attach a new part, secure with spot welding, check the gaps.
Weld by contact welding, in increments of 4-5 cm.

At the final stage, the part is primed, treated with anti-corrosion agent and painted to match the body color.

How to paint arches: materials, tools, equipment

Abrasive materials for careful grinding of wheel arches: sandpapers of different structures, polishing wheels for a grinder;
Two-set auto putty for do-it-yourself putty work. The kit includes: a universal type of putty - to eliminate deep scratches and a finishing (fine-grained) type - to remove shallow roughness and damage. The putty is applied with metal and rubber spatulas;
Various types of primers (depending on the complexity of the damage);
Polishing pastes;
Degreasing solvents and liquids;
Sander;
Electric drill with hard and soft attachments;
Spray gun or spray gun;
Small compressor;
Masking tape, electrical tape, paper for marking and pasting the boundaries of the repair area and protecting the unpainted surface from unnecessary splashes.

If the owner is responsible or wants to drive the car for a long time without thinking about rust in the arches and on the edges of the wings, then he will definitely install the wheel arch liners himself or at a car service center. In general, they are installed to protect against stones flying from under the wheels. The fact is that stones fly out at great speed and when they hit the wheel arch they spoil the paintwork, which in this place is very weak due to mechanical influences and reagents that are so generously sprayed on our roads. Additionally, an owner who loves his car will definitely cover the arches with anticorrosive. This, among other things, will make sound insulation better, because most extraneous sounds enter the car from the wheel arches.

Pre-treatment of the car wing before installation

Polyethylene fender liners are highly durable and resistant to temperature changes. But the quality of the installation will be leveled, the body will quickly begin to become covered with corrosion plaques if the wheel arch is not treated first. Order:

Thoroughly wash and dry the inside of the wing.
Clean out possible pockets of corrosion and treat with an inhibitor.
Carry out anti-corrosion treatment of the surface with wax-based anti-corrosion agents, liquid compounds with a large amount of zinc.

It may be necessary to reapply anti-corrosive or anti-gravel (depending on the condition of the metal).

Design Features

The design and method of attaching body kits on Lada 13-15 series cars differs from other models of the “tenth” VAZ family. Design features are as follows:

Additional metal brackets for fastening to the body are installed inside the plastic elements;
the brackets are held on by threaded connections and screwed to the bumper with self-tapping screws;
plastic latches appeared on the central part of the front bumper;
the edges of the rear body kit are pulled to the body by nuts hidden behind the wheel arches;
It is easier to remove the front and rear parts together with the amplifier, and then unscrew it if necessary.

Problem areas of the VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 body

The body of VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars is susceptible to corrosion and destruction, as it does not have special treatment under the paintwork.
In addition, deformed and damaged body parts begin to deteriorate at an increased rate.

Let's consider the most problematic areas of the body of VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars, the condition of which you need to pay special attention to, for example, when buying a car. Moreover, we will not include problems with wings, doors, and hood in the list, since these parts are removable and their condition does not affect performance and safety.

Problem areas of the body of VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars

— Places for attaching the rear beam to the car body

The rating opens with perhaps the most dangerous problem with the body of these cars - the areas with amplifiers and the body around them rot under the rear beam mounting brackets.

The rear beam of VAZ 2113, 2114, 21015 cars is attached with its levers through rubber-metal hinges to triangular brackets on the right and left sides of the body. The brackets, in turn, sit on studs and are secured with nuts (three studs and three nuts per bracket). The studs are welded to a special thicker metal reinforcement located inside the rear of the sill.

Over time, a corrosion center appears around the brackets (possibly due to a violation of the protective layer of the threshold, untimely treatment of its internal cavity with a protective composition, vibration loading of this part of the body, etc.). First, corrosion eats away the metal of the threshold around the bracket, then it is taken over by the amplifier. After some time, the attachment of the beam to the body simply breaks out, and the car becomes uncontrollable as the beam with the rear wheels begins to take on a life of its own. It is very important to repair this connection at an early stage of destruction (before the amplifier inside the rear part of the threshold is destroyed).

In this case, the metal of the threshold under the brackets can be replaced with a thicker one. In severely advanced cases (for example, when a beam has already been torn out), repair is also possible, but more labor-intensive, since it requires the restoration of destroyed elements in compliance with geometric parameters (otherwise the car may be pulled to the side and the tires of the rear wheels can be eaten away by no means).

— Places for attaching the front suspension brace brackets (“crabs”) to the front of the car body

A similar situation occurs when corrosion forms in the area where the “crabs” are attached to the lower part of the radiator frame. In the places where the brackets are attached, the radiator frame also has reinforcements made of thicker metal. Basically, the destruction begins around them. Repair inserts for brackets are available for sale, which need to be welded in place of the damaged ones. Repairs must be carried out in compliance with all geometric dimensions, since otherwise the alignment of the wheel angles is disrupted, which cannot be adjusted in the future.

— Car thresholds

Destruction of thresholds is the most common problem with the bodies of VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars. Operating a car with rotten thresholds is generally possible, but the rigidity of the body decreases sharply in direct proportion to the degree of destruction. Rust especially progresses under plastic decorative door sills. Replacing thresholds in most cases is impossible without restoring the floor elements to which the thresholds are attached. The threshold of VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars consists of four elements (two amplifiers, a lower part and an external lining). Replacement is carried out either as a whole or those elements that are most corroded.

To prevent destruction and prolong the life of car sills, it is recommended to carry out additional treatment under the plastic sill covers, periodically treat their hidden cavities and external elements with special compounds, and clean the drainage holes in the lower edge of the sills.

— Destruction of the body under the rear support (“pillow”) of the car engine

The rear engine mount bears a large load, which over long periods of use of the vehicle results in weakening of the metal around its mount. In addition, this part of the body is not protected in any way and is constantly exposed to reagents. Over time, the body around the rear engine mount rots and the engine falls back, which makes further operation of the vehicle problematic.

There are repair inserts for the engine mount on sale that can help you cope with this problem.

— Trunk door (rear door) VAZ 2113, 2114

Constantly flying dirt settles on the car's tailgate and causes corrosion of its lower edge, which eventually leads to destruction. In principle, repairing this part is possible, but the price is comparable to replacing the door with a new or used one, but in good condition. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to install a spoiler on the rear upper part of the body above the tailgate. Door contamination will be greatly reduced.

In addition, the rear door hinges can cause problems. At best they become loose, at worst they crack and break.

— Glasses of front suspension struts

Dirt accumulating in the front wheel arches eventually leads to the destruction of the engine mudguards and, accordingly, the front strut cups. The constant vibration load of the places where the upper part of the struts (support bearings) are attached to the body causes cracks to appear near their studs and nuts. The repair part is commercially available, but replacing it is labor-intensive. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to periodically renew the protective coating of wheel arches and use plastic wheel arch liners. Rear suspension strut cups (rear wheel arches)

The same situation occurs with the rear suspension strut cups. Rust here usually begins to appear from the side of the wheel arches, behind the pillars. If the rack glasses themselves have not collapsed, then everything can only be done by replacing the rotten areas with fresh metal, which is not so difficult. Recommendations for prevention are the same: protective coating of wheel arches, filling hidden cavities with special compounds and using fender liners.

Useful video

You can get additional interesting information from the video below:

Use our recommendations, step by step repeating all the points in the instructions for replacing the wing, and you will be pleasantly surprised that the whole job will take you no more than a few hours.

Welcome! The rear wing is an exterior detail (the exterior is what is on the outside, it includes various kinds of bumpers, sills, etc.) and a very important detail, besides the fact that it gives the car an appearance, it is also the internal metal from protects against corrosion, so first of all the fenders, sills, etc. rot, and only then, everything that is located under them.

Note! To change the rear fender on a car, you will have to stock up on: A grinder or a reciprocating saw will be even more convenient and there is less chance that the body will be damaged, and you will also need a good welder, or if you know how to weld parts yourself, then you can do without a welder, in addition You will need gloves to work with a saw and especially welding, and you will also need self-tapping screws!

Summary:

When should you replace your rear fender? Unfortunately, the rear fenders are one of the most difficult to replace parts, for example, if you take the front fenders, they are attached with just a couple of bolts, after unscrewing them, the wings can be very easily removed from the car, but in order to change the rear fenders, you need a lot of time and nerves, but more on that a little later, and now we’ll answer the question itself, the rear wing of a car is changed only in case of severe deformation, although many people drive with deformed wings, it’s just that if the wing is not touched too much, then the dent is simply not possible straighten, this is done using special tools that come in a dent removal kit (This kit can be bought at a car store), for more details on how this is all done, see the video clip located just below: