How to remove the injector manifold of a VAZ 2109

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How to Remove the Exhaust Manifold of a VAZ 2109 Injector

The exhaust manifold is a component of the exhaust system of accounting programs that carries out the process of removing exhaust gases from the cylinders of the unit into the exhaust pipe.
If the collector malfunctions, the culprit is both the element itself and its gasket. Changing the exhaust manifold (exhaust manifold) gasket is a common event when repairing a VAZ 2109.

In order to change the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But to get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preliminary stages. Specifically, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if step 1 does not help.

Your deeds

Often, loose fastenings of the collectors became a prerequisite for the ingress of contaminants, which disrupted the performance of the exhaust system. In that case, the tightening did not give any result, then the gasket was definitely burned out or the collector itself was damaged, which is the least possible

Removing the air filter

If the engine is injection, to remove the air filter you will need to unscrew the four mounting screws of the filter housing cover. The filter itself is located under the cover. If difficulties arise when lifting the cover, disconnect the mass air flow sensor and remove the filter device.
If you have a carburetor under the hood, then the filter and housing will be held in place by 3 latches. There is a screw in the center of the iron cover, which is often unscrewed by hand. Once you remove it, you can lift the lid without any problems. Underneath there is a filter, which should be removed carefully. Examine its condition carefully. If the filter has been working for quite a long time, it is recommended to change it during the return assembly.

The carburetor is dismantled in the following order:

Disconnect the antifreeze supply hose from the fitting to the engine starting device. For this purpose, you unscrew the clamps;
Be sure to drain the coolant into a prepared container;
Disconnect the exhaust pipe that comes from the exhaust manifold and the BC bracket;
Disconnect the throttle cable bracket. To do this, you need to remove one end of the spring from the damper control rod, and then remove the entire spring. Now loosen the nut on the bracket, which will allow you to remove the cable from the engagement;
Disconnect the EPH sensor from the power plug;
Disconnect the vacuum tube and a pair of hoses from the carburetor heater unit;
Remove the crankcase ventilation hose;
Remove the four mounting nuts holding the carburetor and intake manifold;
Remove the carburetor carefully without tugging. It must be evenly removed from the studs.

Now it’s time to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. Having dismantled them, you can easily understand how you can get by by changing the gasket, or whether you will need a complete change of the collectors themselves.

The gasket is a consumable item, the purchase of which will cost you almost 50-250 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and region. Services for replacing gaskets for 100 cost more than 1,500 rubles. Add to this the price of a high-quality gasket and you get quite a lot of money. You will avoid such costs if our client can do it on his own.

By removing the air filter and carburetor, you gain access to the intake manifold.

To dismantle it you will need a certain set of tools:

Ratchet with 10mm head;
Collar;
Ratchet;
Deepest head at 13;
Row head for 13;
Open-end wrench 13.

When our client is ready, we get to work.

Unscrew a couple of mounting nuts to bend back the platform located under the carburetor.
Disconnect the hoses that are connected to the intake manifold.
Remove the 6 mounting nuts that are located on the intake manifold.
Remove the manifold itself from the studs. To do this, simply swing the knot to the sides. Often it sticks to the gasket, which causes problems with removal.
Inspect the condition of the unit. If there is damage, the collector is replaced.
If the problem lies solely in the gasket, put the intake manifold aside for now and start removing the outlet.

To remove a graduate, you will need:

Ratchet;
Open-end wrench 13;
Socket wrench 13;
The deepest head is 13.

Is our client still ready? Then let's get started.

Unscrew the four exhaust pipe mounting nuts from our exhaust manifold.
Pull the so-called trousers off their heels and take them to the side. Now you can unscrew three more fastening nuts securing the VK.
Carefully, without sudden movements or jerks, pull the graduate off the stiletto heels.
Often, during the dismantling of this unit, the manifold or its mounting nuts become stuck to the seats. To prevent this, treat the assembly with WD40 in advance, let it react, after which there will be no problems with dismantling work.
If the studs break off during removal, you will need to drill out the old element, make a new thread and install a fresh stud.

Replacing the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2109

Burnout of the gasket under the exhaust manifold is a rather unpleasant and common malfunction on the VAZ 2109.

A product that has become unusable will allow exhaust gases from a running engine to pass under the hood, and the characteristic chattering sound when the engine is under load also does not greatly contribute to a comfortable ride. Replacing the manifold gasket on a VAZ 2109 will help avoid such problems.

The collector gasket is made from a specially compressed asbestos mixture reinforced with steel thread; it can be purchased at any spare parts store. The price of the product, depending on the manufacturer, varies from 50 to 200 rubles. For a VAZ 2109, replacing the intake manifold gasket at a car service center will cost approximately 1,500 rubles and more, not counting the cost of the gasket itself.

Causes of malfunctions

The key factor that causes 90% of exhaust manifold malfunctions on VAZ 2114 cars is high temperature and poor quality materials from which the parts are made. During operation, the steel repeatedly heats up and cools down, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the body. This is a common occurrence for VAZ cars older than 7-8 years.

Auto repair shops offer crack welding services using argon welding. However, for a number of reasons, this activity is useless for cars older than 7 years.

1) Just removing and installing the exhaust manifold will cost about 2.5 thousand rubles. Taking into account the work of the welder and other actions, the cost of repairs can be 4-5 thousand rubles. If you do the work yourself, buying a new part will cost less.

2) Welding, even argon welding, disrupts the structure of “tired” metal. A boiled part rarely lasts longer than a year, after which new holes appear. The older the car, the faster the problem returns, and the collector has to be removed again.

If the car is older than 8 years and there are problems with cracks in the manifold, it is better to remove the part and replace it with a new one.

Preliminary work

Replacing the VAZ 2109 intake manifold gasket with your own hands is not very difficult and does not require specific knowledge or expensive tools - the required set of keys is usually present in the trunk of every car enthusiast.

But before replacing, you should try to tighten the fastening of the intake unit - if the gasket is not burned out, it is the loose fastening that may cause exhaust gases to get under the hood. If tightening the fastening does not help, it means that the gasket is completely burned out and needs to be replaced. Replacing the VAZ 2109 manifold gasket will require preliminary work to dismantle the air filter, remove the carburetor and the manifold itself. All of the above work is carried out exclusively on a cold engine.

Removing the air filter with housing

On the injection engine of a VAZ 2109 car, to remove the air filter, it is enough to unscrew the four self-tapping screws securing the cover of the filter element housing - for this, use a 10mm wrench or a ratchet. There will be a filter element under the cover. If the cover is difficult to lift, you can disconnect the mass air flow sensor from the plug.

On a carbureted engine, there are three latches under the hood that can be easily opened. There is a screw in the middle of the metal cover, which can also be unscrewed by hand, after which the cover is removed. Under the cover there is a filter element that must be carefully removed. Subsequently, during reassembly, the filter element can be replaced - if the time has come or if the filter element is very dirty.

Removing the carburetor

After the air filter has been removed, you can begin to remove the carburetor. To remove the carburetor on a VAZ 2109, you will need the following tools:

Instructions for dismantling the carburetor will be as follows:

The work of removing the carburetor is completed. The presented photos and videos will help you clearly follow the process of removing the carburetor.

Removing the intake manifold

After the work of removing the air filter and dismantling the carburetor is completed, you can begin to remove the intake unit. To do this you will need the following set of tools:

The work order will be as follows:

Removing the exhaust manifold

Removing the VAZ 2109 exhaust manifold will require the following tools:

When removing the collectors, a problem may arise such as sticking of the studs and nuts - since the metal is constantly heating and cooling, a souring process occurs.

To make work easier, the fastening studs can be filled with WD 40 liquid in advance, about a day before starting work. This will make it much easier to remove the manifold for subsequent gasket replacement.

If the pin breaks off when unscrewing, you just have to drill it out, and then cut a new thread and screw on a new pin.

Recommended Method

Level control technology includes a number of stages:

We dismantle the housing of the air filter element. To do this, unscrew the fastening nut of the housing cover, unclip the latches, remove the cover, take out the filter and tighten the 4 nuts that secure the housing to the carburetor.
Raise the body and disconnect the rubber pipes. We move the body to the side.
Loosen the clamps securing the fuel pipes going to the carburetor and disconnect them.
Remove the wire suitable for the idle speed solenoid valve;
Disconnect the drive cable of the air damper (the “choke” handle);
Unscrew the 5 screws securing the carburetor cover;
Having removed the cover, we immediately determine the fuel level in the chambers by lowering a ruler or caliper into one of them until it stops (using its depth gauge). If the measurement shows a level of 25-26 mm, it corresponds to the norm and no adjustment is required;

If the amount of fuel in the chamber is lower or higher than normal, we perform a visual inspection and a series of measurements on the floats, and if necessary, we correct their position.

To carry out adjustment work, place the removed carburetor cover on a flat horizontal surface with the floats facing up.

First, we look at the position of the elements from above. The outer side surfaces of the floats are parallel to the special imprints on the gasket. Deviations can cause the floats to touch adjacent elements and surfaces, causing the fuel level to be incorrect. If necessary, adjust the position of the floats by bending their mounting arms. The next step is to measure the gap between the floats and the gasket. A rod with a diameter of 2 mm is useful here - this is how much the specified gap should be.

If it does not correspond, we bend the tongue of the floats, with which they act on the locking needle. After this adjustment, we check the total height of the floats, which is normally 34 mm. If this is not the case, check the gap again, adjust it if necessary and measure the height again.

The last stage of setup is determining the working stroke of the floats. To do this, place a caliper near the float, mark the distance from its lower corner to the surface of the cover, then lift the float with your hand and mark where the lower corner is.

Replacing the gasket

After the preparatory work is completed - the air filter, carburetor and intake and exhaust manifold are dismantled, you can begin the main work, for which all previous steps were done - directly replacing the gasket itself.

The work order will look like this:

Replacement of the exhaust manifold gasket on the VAZ 2109 has been completed. The exhaust pipe of the muffler is secured with brass nuts, preferably new ones. And don't forget to fill in the coolant that was drained when dismantling the carburetor!

Changing the resonator

It is also advisable to replace the resonator on a VAZ 2110. This is done after changing the muffler.

New resonator for VAZ 2110

The work of replacing the resonator is performed in the following sequence:

The resonator is secured to the muffler with a crimp clamp with an O-ring.
It is attached to the neutralizer using a floating flange consisting of two bolts and a flare.
On the opposite side of the element there is a so-called fist.
Removing bolts is often quite difficult. So that you don't have to suffer, just cut them off with a grinder and buy new bolts. This is the simplest solution to the problem.
If you couldn’t get a grinder, use a liquid key. This is a popular product among motorists - WD40 or its analogues. Treat the bolt attachment points with this compound, wait a while, after which the bolts should come off.
After removing the bolts, remove the muffler clamp.
Remove the resonator from the suspension rubber bands. Check the condition of the rubber bands. If they are worn out, replace them with new ones.
Take a new resonator, secure them to rubber and connect them to the muffler so that the pipe leading to the muffler from the resonator is parallel to the ground.
If you notice wear, burrs, or traces of rust on the neutralizer fist, be sure to coat the connection with sealant. Moreover, it must be a high-temperature sealant.
Armed with new bolts and nuts, tighten the catalytic converter and resonator flanges.
The neutralizer is fixed to the resonator with two bolts using a flange connection. The fastening occurs to the states, but there is a receiving pipe, using a spring-loaded connection and two flares. The space between them contains a sealing ring made of graphite or metal asbestos.

Read more: Euro 2 without removing the catalyst

Removing and installing the fuel manifold and injectors

The Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) system is a device controlled by the ECM. It measures the fraction of fuel under pressure in each cylinder.

The ECM provides control pulses to the fuel injector solenoid.

Fuel enters the top of the injector through the ball or valve needle and a recess in the guide plate at the injector outlet.

The guide plate has 6 holes that control the fuel flow, which creates a conical spray of fuel towards the intake valve. The atomized fuel evaporates before entering the combustion chamber.

Conclusion Attention: the fuel system is under pressure. To reduce the risk of personal injury or fire, the fuel system must be relieved of pressure before disconnecting fuel lines.

1. Release fuel pressure.

2. Disconnect the “-” battery cable.

3. Remove the fuel injector harness connectors.

4. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

5. Remove the supply line.

6. Remove the fuel manifold mounting bolts.

Before removal, the fuel manifold should be spray cleaned according to the included instructions.

Setting the fuel level

Adjusting the amount of fuel in the chambers of Solex carburetors is a simple procedure and does not require specialized equipment. Although in the factory this adjustment is performed using a special template, which simplifies and speeds up the work. But at home you can do without this template. To carry out adjustment work yourself you need:

screwdrivers (phillips, flat);
ruler (preferably a caliper);
round rod with a diameter of 2 mm (wire or drill will do).

With such equipment you can quickly complete all work.

How to remove the manifold on a VAZ 2109

Removing manifolds on a VAZ

.
replacing manifold gaskets. installation of collectors on a VAZ 2109
. 2108 21099.

Do not submerge the manifold

into the liquid cleaning solution. Be careful when removing the manifold to avoid damaging the injector connectors and spray heads.

Do not allow contaminants to enter open pipelines and passages.

Fittings should be capped and plugs should be blocked with plugs during maintenance.

7. Remove the fuel manifold with the injectors installed on it.

8. Remove the fuel injector mounting clamps.

9. Remove the fuel injectors by pushing them down.

10. Remove the injector O-rings.

Installation Caution: Injectors are marked for flow rate. When ordering a fuel injector, be sure to order the part with the same number on it as the old injector.

1. Install new O-rings on the fuel injectors, after lubricating them with engine oil.

2. Install the fuel injectors onto the fuel manifold sockets with the injector terminals facing outward.

3. Install the injector retaining clamps on the injectors and the edge of the fuel manifold

4. Make sure the yoke is installed parallel to the fuel injector harness connector.

5. Install the fuel collector assembly onto the cylinder head and tighten the fuel manifold mounting bolts to a torque of 25 Nm.

7. Connect the supply hose.

8. Connect the fuel injector harness connectors. Rotate each of the fuel injectors to avoid stretching the wiring harness.

9. Install the exhaust gas recirculation valve, if installed on the vehicle.

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Replacing the Exhaust Manifold Gasket VAZ 2109 Injector

Do not immerse the manifold in liquid cleaning solution. Be careful when removing the manifold to avoid damaging the injector connectors and spray heads.

Do not allow contaminants to enter open pipelines and passages.

Fittings should be capped and plugs should be blocked with plugs during maintenance.

7. Remove the fuel manifold with the injectors installed on it.

8. Remove the fuel injector mounting clamps.

9. Remove the fuel injectors by pushing them down.

10. Remove the injector O-rings.

Installation Caution: Injectors are marked for flow rate. When ordering a fuel injector, be sure to order the part with the same number on it as the old injector.

You may also need a wrench;

— remove the fastening nuts that secure the base located under the carburetor and bend it back;

— discard all hoses that are connected to the intake manifold;

- Unscrew the six fastening nuts;

- remove the intake manifold.

— prepare a tool (the same as when dismantling the intake manifold);

— Unscrew the four fastening nuts that secure the exhaust manifold and the receiving pipe. If you can’t immediately tighten the rusted nuts, use the life-saving WD-40;

— move the discarded “pants” a little to the side.

In fact, this is more than a myth. However, the real problems of two or more are serious, so repairs should not be put off.

Cracks in the exhaust manifold or a worn gasket usually cause the engine to run dirty.

1) A lambda probe is installed in the exhaust manifold, which affects the operation of the accounting (software) injection. Strong air suction disrupts the oxygen mass content in the exhaust; the lambda incorrectly adjusts the quality of the mixture, causing tripping, uneven idling, loss of power, and “black” spark plugs.

5) Additional function – crankcase ventilation.

Add to this the price of a high-quality gasket and you get quite a lot of money. You will avoid such costs if our client can do it on his own.

By removing the air filter and carburetor, you gain access to the intake manifold.

To dismantle it you will need a certain set of tools:

When our client is ready, we get to work.

To do this, simply swing the knot to the sides. Often it sticks to the gasket, which causes problems with removal.

To remove a graduate, you will need:

Is our client still ready? Then let's get started.

Replacing the exhaust manifold and gasket on a VAZ 2114

The exhaust manifold is a unit that is responsible for driving properties, without which comfort is impossible. This is quietness and the absence of exhaust aroma under the hood, which can be drawn into the cabin through the hole in the cabin filter. Eliminating leaks in the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2114 - necessary repairs. Modern, it is not urgent, there is an option to prepare in advance and choose the right moment.

Exhaust manifold for VAZ 2114

Air leak VAZ 21099 injector

For normal operation, a gasoline engine requires an accurate ratio of fuel to oxygen. Air leakage in the intake manifold leads to an increase in the proportion of oxidizer, which, naturally, is registered by the engine ECU (Engine Control Unit). Let's look at the main causes and symptoms of the malfunction, as well as how to find leaks in the intake tract using a smoke generator.

Symptoms

Unstable engine operation at idle speed. At idle, the mechanical throttle valve is closed, and air enters the intake manifold through the bypass duct. In this mode, the vacuum behind the throttle valve is maximum, so the symptoms of air leaks appear most clearly. By opening the throttle valve, we increase the flow area for air flow, so the negative impact of suction on engine operation is reduced.
Increased idle speed.
Unstable engine operation after abrupt release of gas (stalls when braking).
The Check Engine light comes on on the dashboard due to error P0171 - lean mixture. Error codes can be read through the diagnostic connector using a multi-brand scanner with suitable software or a specialized diagnostic device. If, after removal, the error appears again at idle speed, there is a high probability that the reason is due to air leaks, and not a breakdown of the mass air flow sensor or oxygen sensor.

It should be borne in mind that individually, each of the symptoms does not yet indicate the leakage of unaccounted air and can be caused by malfunctions of the power supply system, mass air flow sensor, IAC, throttle assembly or lambda probe.

Effect on engine operation

The cause of air leak symptoms lies in unaccounted for oxygen entering the cylinders. It’s time to remember the purpose and operating principle of the mass air flow sensor. The sensor is installed behind the air filter. Consequently, the ECU can only count the flow that has passed through the heating element.

We speak of a leak when there is a leak in the intake tract behind the mass air flow sensor, through which unaccounted air is sucked into the intake manifold.

Since the ECU calculates the fuel portion based on the MAF readings, the mixture at idle turns out to be lean (excess oxidizer).

In systems with a MAP sensor (DBP), the ECU relies on pressure in the intake manifold.

But for normal operation, the flow area of the bypass channel, which is controlled by the extension of the IAC rod, and the degree of opening of the throttle valve must correspond to the calibrations included in the engine ECU.

Of course, the intake of unaccounted air creates confusion in the operation of the control unit, so it tries in every possible way to synchronize the operation of the actuators and the sensor readings. Therefore, the revolutions begin to float, and in general the idle speed is unstable.

Possible places for leaks in the intake tract

All tubes and hoses of the vacuum system. Most often, hoses dry out at the connection points with fittings and crack at bends. Also, the leakage of unaccounted for air can occur due to carelessness, when after repairs they forget to connect or confuse the hoses, or inadvertently pull them off the fittings.
Vacuum brake booster system. Air leaks can occur not only through a check valve or hose, but also through a torn membrane or depressurization of the vacuum chamber housing. We have already looked at how to check the VUT.
Intake manifold gasket.
Sealing rubber bands for injectors.

IAC seal at the point where it is screwed to the DZ housing.
Mechanical throttle valve rotation axis. The depletion that occurs at high mileage leads to the appearance of backlash. Throttle valves with an electric wire do not suffer from the problem of suction of unaccounted air in such places.
Crack in the intake manifold. A fairly typical problem for cars with plastic manifolds.
Crankcase ventilation system. The cause of suction is leakage of hoses, tubes, and valves.
Leakage of the gas tank ventilation system.

Replacing the gasket

A good driver must maintain his car efficiently and in a timely manner, but at the same time always be prepared for the unexpected. Indeed, it is very difficult to control the condition of all the components, parts and gaskets of the machine, which at any moment can fail and stop performing their functions. Thus, one of the most unpleasant “surprises” for car enthusiasts is damage to the exhaust manifold gasket.

The main task of the exhaust manifold gasket is to prevent the gas-air mixture from escaping from the general system. The most common material used for laying is metal or asbestos-free paper. The reason for this precaution is the difficult working conditions, because the gasket has to withstand very high temperature conditions. Consequently, the materials used must have appropriate properties.

Despite its reliability, this gasket often burns out. At the site of damage, exhaust gases come out, which rise upward and seep through the cracks in the hood. It is very difficult not to notice such a malfunction. In addition, the sound of the engine also changes (it becomes louder).

In such a situation, it is enough to inspect the running engine. If the leakage of exhaust gases at the junction of the exhaust manifold is clearly noticeable, then the best solution is to replace the gasket.

I would like to note right away that this work cannot be called very difficult. But its disadvantage is its volume and very significant time costs. So be prepared to set aside a few hours of your personal time. So, the algorithm of actions looks like this:

— unscrew the filter cover fastening (usually it is held on by one screw). If a nut is installed, then use an appropriate open-end or socket wrench to unscrew it;

— lift the lid and put it aside (you won’t need it yet);

- move the air filter aside;

— remove the unit body (to do this, unscrew the four nuts) and also put it aside.

How to extend gasket life

Although replacing the exhaust manifold gasket is inexpensive and can be done successfully in your own garage, who wants to waste their time on it? It's better to let it serve longer. And to extend its service life, listen to the following tips:

monitor the condition of the cooling system, check the level of antifreeze (antifreeze) to prevent engine overheating;
use only high-quality fuel;
check the tightness of the connection between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold;
If you find that the integrity of the gasket is damaged, do not wait until it burns out completely, replace it;
When buying an exhaust manifold gasket, choose a quality product from well-known manufacturers.

In this article we will discuss the symptoms when the exhaust manifold gasket has burned out. For an exhaust device, the gasket is one of the main parts on which the entire correctness and accuracy of the exhaust system will depend.

If the manifold seal is not replaced in a timely manner, the safety conditions for operating the vehicle are greatly reduced.

In general, a manifold is a device designed to remove exhaust gases from a car engine. The second function of the collector is to improve the filling of the working chambers and enhance the ventilation of the working space. All operation of the exhaust device is carried out at elevated temperatures and high gas pressure.

This element is attached directly to the head ( cylinder head

) and the other side is in contact with the exhaust pipe or converter. The most important task of the exhaust manifold gasket is to prevent exhaust gases from entering the valve space. These gases, in turn, can cause fire of parts or elements of the power unit.

Symptoms of a blown exhaust manifold gasket

The following can be distinguished: exhaust gases begin to flow into the car interior or their smell is felt; the car engine begins to start poorly; Strange sounds appear in the engine compartment. If these ailments are detected, you should begin to inspect the exhaust system. The collector itself is made of high-strength austenitic steel.

In this regard, burnout and replacement of the collector is quite rare. The main reason for the breakdown of the collector itself is drops of water falling on its hot surface, which leads to the formation of cracks in it.

The weak link of this durable and reliable element is the gaskets. Wear of the manifold gasket occurs mainly due to: poor quality of the material or very long operation under increased loads.

Manifold gaskets are now made from steel-reinforced, durable asbestos. However, even such a durable material is susceptible to destruction. The process of replacing the exhaust manifold gasket is not at all difficult.

Experts even recommend replacing the gasket after some time, without waiting for it to fail.

We carry out the following procedures:

1. Open the hood of the car;
2. Remove the air intake. Then remove the carburetor. Under these engine elements is the exhaust manifold;
3. Remove the thermal shield. It covers the collector;
4. Unscrew two nuts on each cylinder that secure the manifold;
5. Unscrew a couple of bolts from the exhaust pipe;
6. Remove the manifold;
7. There should be an old gasket or remains of it on the cylinder head;
8. We clear all the space for a new gasket;
9. Clean everything until it shines;
10. After cleaning, apply a graphite-based lubricant to the area;
11. Now install a new gasket;
12. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

1. The pressure on the turbine begins to decrease;
2. When driving at high speeds and under load, black smoke appears in the exhaust;
3. When driving on the highway, you feel increased fuel consumption;
4. It may start to whistle at certain speeds.

As you can see, the symptoms can significantly affect the driving characteristics of the car. Therefore, you should not delay replacing a burnt gasket. In this article, we discussed the main symptoms that the exhaust manifold gasket has burned out. I would like to add the word “may” to all the symptoms described in the article, since they may not appear, or they may appear in a slightly different way.

Symptoms that the exhaust manifold gasket has burnt out. Full list and action plan »

Removing and installing the fuel manifold and injectors

The Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) system is a device controlled by the ECM. It measures the fraction of fuel under pressure in each cylinder.

The ECM provides control pulses to the fuel injector solenoid.

Fuel enters the top of the injector through the ball or valve needle and a recess in the guide plate at the injector outlet.

The guide plate has 6 holes that control the fuel flow, which creates a conical spray of fuel towards the intake valve. The atomized fuel evaporates before entering the combustion chamber.

Conclusion Attention: the fuel system is under pressure. To reduce the risk of personal injury or fire, the fuel system must be relieved of pressure before disconnecting fuel lines.

1. Release fuel pressure.

2. Disconnect the “-” battery cable.

3. Remove the fuel injector harness connectors.

4. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

5. Remove the supply line.

6. Remove the fuel manifold mounting bolts.

Before removal, the fuel manifold should be spray cleaned according to the included instructions.

Preparation stages

To replace the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But before you get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preparatory steps. Namely, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first stage does not help.

All dismantling work must be carried out only on a cold engine. To make it easy to unscrew all fasteners, you can pre-treat them with WD40, several hours or even a day before the repair begins.

Often, loose manifold fastenings caused the entry of contaminants, which disrupted the performance of the exhaust system. If the tightening did not give any result, then the gasket is definitely burned out or the collector itself is damaged, which is less likely

Removing the air filter

Removing the carburetor is carried out in the following sequence:

How to repair a muffler

If your car's muffler requires repair or complete replacement, it is not recommended to do this work yourself, since there is a high risk that you will only worsen the condition of the exhaust system, and possibly the entire vehicle as a whole. In order to prevent such a situation, contact only specialized car services. In our car service center, qualified specialists with the necessary competence in the field of working with exhaust systems will competently diagnose the exhaust system of your car, and, if necessary, repair or install a new muffler in the shortest possible time.

If you encounter any malfunction in the exhaust system and you need to diagnose it, repair it or replace the muffler, then our salon specialists will be happy to help you with this, since we carry out all types of this work!

Required tool for replacement

Before you begin the process itself, you need to decide on the necessary tools. So, what will you need: a ratchet and sockets for 17, 19; screwdrivers with flat and Phillips tips; a set of keys and the gasket itself.

Now that everything is prepared, you can start working directly. In order for the manifold to be removed without any problems and rusted bolts not to create trouble, everything must be lubricated with WD-40 before performing the operation. It is advisable to do this several times. Before performing the operation, you need to think again, weigh everything and calculate your strength.

Dismantling of collectors

Now comes the turn to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. Having dismantled them, you can understand whether it is possible to get by with replacing the gasket, or whether the collectors themselves will need to be completely replaced.

The gasket is a consumable item, the purchase of which will literally cost you 50-250 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and region. Services for replacing the gasket at a service station cost more than 1,500 rubles. Add to this the cost of a high-quality gasket and you will get quite a lot of money. Such costs can be avoided if you do everything yourself.

Intake manifold

By removing the air filter and carburetor, you will gain access to the intake manifold.

To dismantle it you will need a certain set of tools:

When everything is ready, you can start working.

An exhaust manifold

To dismantle a graduate you will need:

All is ready? Then let's get started.

Pad

Well, the check showed that the burnt gasket was to blame. Therefore, only it will have to be changed.

Alas, to get to a simple gasket, it was necessary to remove the air filter, carburetor, exhaust, and intake manifolds. But there is no way without this.

To replace an old, used gasket, you will need:

Installing a new gasket

It is up to you to ensure that the new gasket has a long service life. To do this, before installation, treat the gaskets on both sides with graphite lubricant. This way you will increase the product’s resistance to temperature changes that it regularly encounters. Similarly, coat the cylinder head studs with graphite lubricant for the same purpose.

Basic aspects of manifold tuning

The basis of tuning is polishing inside and out. Thanks to this, you can achieve a neat and attractive appearance. This action improves performance. When the walls in the collector are smooth, gases move through it in one direction without resistance. Faster purging can improve engine cooling.

On VAZ 2109 cars, by polishing the spider, its internal diameter can be increased. Exhaust gas flow increases, as does engine efficiency. Sequence of work:

Before removing the manifold on a VAZ 2109, you need to dismantle all attachments and disconnect the cylinder head.
Disassemble the cylinder head, dry out the valves, remove the rocker arms and springs.
Using the head at “6”, pull out the guides.
Remove the inlet and outlet devices.
Eliminate defects (if any) on the cylinder head, exhaust and intake manifold. A spider that is deformed or has obvious damage cannot be installed.
Mill the block head by 1 mm.
Wash the cylinder head until it shines. If the gasket is stuck to the block or cylinder head, get rid of its remains without using metal objects.
After lubricating the valve guides, mount them in place. To work, use an “11” head and a hammer.
Check the condition of the valves. If there are deformed ones, change them.
Assemble the head, install rocker arms, caps, valves.
Reinstall the intake and exhaust manifolds. The manifold gasket must be replaced; an old one cannot be installed.
Install the cylinder head onto the block using a new gasket and bolts.

The general algorithm for carrying out the work is not very complicated, the main thing is accuracy and precision. Do not trust cylinder head milling to dubious workshops. Otherwise you will have to buy a new one.

Preliminary work

On the injection engine of a VAZ 2109 car, to remove the air filter, it is enough to unscrew the four self-tapping screws securing the cover of the filter element housing - for this, use a 10mm wrench or a ratchet. There will be a filter element under the cover. If the cover is difficult to lift, you can disconnect the mass air flow sensor from the plug.

After the air filter has been removed, you can begin to remove the carburetor. To remove the carburetor on a VAZ 2109, you will need the following tools:

Instructions for dismantling the carburetor will be as follows:

The work of removing the carburetor is completed. The presented photos and videos will help you clearly follow the process of removing the carburetor.

After the work of removing the air filter and dismantling the carburetor is completed, you can begin to remove the intake unit. To do this you will need the following set of tools:

The work order will be as follows:

Removing the VAZ 2109 exhaust manifold will require the following tools:

When removing the collectors, a problem may arise such as sticking of the studs and nuts - since the metal is constantly heating and cooling, a souring process occurs.

If the pin breaks off when unscrewing, you just have to drill it out, and then cut a new thread and screw on a new pin.

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How to Remove the Exhaust Manifold of a VAZ 2109 Injector

How to Remove the Exhaust Manifold of a VAZ 2109 Injector

The exhaust manifold is part of the exhaust gas metering system, which makes the process of removing exhaust gases from the cylinders of the unit into the exhaust pipe.

If the manifold is not working properly, the culprit is both the element itself and its gasket. Replacing the gasket (exhaust manifold) is a common occurrence when performing repairs on a VAZ 2109.

To replace the manifold or gasket, the LCD must be removed in any situation. But until you get there, you will first need to complete a few preliminary steps. Specifically, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first step does not help.

Your actions

Often, loose manifold fastenings became a prerequisite for contamination, which led to a malfunction of the exhaust system. In this case, lifting did not give any result, then the gasket or the manifold itself was damaged, which is the least possible

Disassembling the air filter

If the engine is a fuel injector, you will need to remove the four filter housing cover mounting screws to remove the air filter. Under the cover is the filter itself. If you have trouble lifting the cover, turn off the MAF sensor and remove the filter.
If there is a carburetor installed under the hood, the filter housing will be held in place by 3 clips. In the center of the iron cover is a screw, often loosened by hand. Removal allows the cover to be lifted easily. Below is a filter that should be removed carefully. Examine its condition carefully. If the filter has been in use for a long time, it is recommended to replace it during assembly.

Remove the carburetor in the following order:

Disconnect the starter antifreeze hose from the unit. To do this, unscrew the clamps;
Pour coolant into the prepared container;
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and bracket BC;
Disconnect the throttle cable handle. To do this, remove one end of the spring from the throttle control rod, and then remove the entire spring. Now unscrew the nut on the bracket to remove the cable from its engagement;
Unplug the EPHX sensor from the outlet;
Disconnect the vacuum tube and steam hoses from the carburetor heating block;
Remove the crankcase ventilation hose;
Remove the four mounting nuts that hold the carburetor and intake manifold in place;
Remove the carburetor carefully without slipping. This should be evenly spaced away from the studs.

It's time to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. Having disassembled them, you will easily understand how to replace the gasket, otherwise you will need to completely replace the collectors themselves.