Replacement
First, let's stock up on tools:
- keys to “10”, “13” and “17”;
- a large screwdriver with a slotted profile;
- wrench for installing the roller and adjusting the tension;
- jack;
- balloon wrench.
Before dismantling, you will need to set the timing belt to a special position (TDC). To do this, there are marks on the shaft pulleys, transmission housing and motor housing. So, replacing the timing belt step by step.
- Lada Kalina is located on a flat area.
- We jack up the right front side, and put wheel chocks on the rear wheels.
- Having opened the hood and armed with a size 10 wrench, unscrew the bolts (3 pcs.) holding the protective cover of the mechanism.
- The tension roller nut in LADA Kalina is unscrewed using a “13” wrench. The timing belt is loose.
- Now we dismantle the generator belt drive. To do this, we use a size 13 wrench to loosen the tensioning device.
- We look for the mark on the camshaft gear. It is presented in the form of a rectangular bead on the back surface of the edge of the gear itself.
- Rotating the shaft with a suitable wrench, align the indicated mark with the upper protrusion present on the mechanism housing fixation plate.
- We move to the box housing. It has a special window closed with a rubber plug. We pry it up with a long screwdriver and remove it.
- We see the flywheel of LADA Kalina. It has a mark that must be aligned with the triangular protrusion located on the left of the crankcase.
- If the phases are set correctly in advance (with the belt tensioned), then the two indicated pairs of marks must coincide. When this is not observed, we correct the position by rotating the shafts by the pulleys (you can spin the wheel by engaging 5th gear in advance).
- Next, we lock the flywheel using a screwdriver, pushing it through the crankcase window and resting it against the teeth.
- Now remove the generator set pulley.
- We remove the old LADA Kalina timing belt from the drive gears and roller.
- When installing a new belt drive, we check that the marks are not displaced. All manipulations are performed using the reverse algorithm.
- Tensioning is done by rotating the roller of the same name. We use a special key.
A correctly tensioned belt will allow you to use your fingers to rotate the idle branch (in the middle) 90 degrees. This will correspond to an applied load of 2 kgf.
- The roller fasteners can now be tightened to the required torque.
- We remove the screwdriver from the crankcase window and return the plug.
- After assembly, we check that the marks match (rotate the mechanism 2 full turns and look).
- We install the casing.
- Don't forget to put the wheel back in place.
During installation, it is important not to forget about the labels.
The timing belt replacement is complete.
see also
Comments 28
www.drive2.ru/l/8981345/?page=0#a163962325 On K-1 I replaced the belt, roller and pump, mileage 52,000, and because of the pump I changed it, it started to crunch and “pee”, although the belt and roller are still there something on the shelf.
I have already replaced the belt with the roller with 59000, I will change the pump later
At 45 thousand they did both valve adjustment and inspection (they had to according to the maintenance regulations). After the warranty expires, I don’t go to the officials, because... not satisfied with the quality of their work, price and attitude towards the client. That's actually why I'm asking :)
Don’t forget that the imported belt is ten times better quality than the previous one. generations of this engine. The self-tensioning pulley is also sold complete with a belt and is also considered a very high-quality product. But the pump... In stores they sell either Lada-detail or Luzar. On board. I saw someone in magazines praising the DOLZ L121. I think it’s somewhat naive to just change everything, new parts can be worse than the original ones. It is necessary to carry out troubleshooting by removing the belt, checking it carefully for cracks, peeling, the pump for jamming, play, squeaks and tension similarly. And then you can bring a candle to church))))
I don’t understand...WHY is this belt better than BRT? Everyone says high-quality, high-quality, high-quality. What is its quality?
It is clear that taste and color are all relative, but by default, imported spare parts from more or less famous manufacturers are considered to be of higher quality than domestic ones, if only because they have a longer service life compared to ours. There are exceptions, of course.
I used BRT on the previous 21103 (1.5-16 cells) (the salesman in the store said take it and don’t bother). So I changed it for 50,000 - it looked like new. And the second and third time I used only BRT. I drove the last one 70,000 and sold the car.
and on this gates supposedly 120 is stated, that’s the difference
I don’t know how much BRT claims.
I used BRT on the previous 21103 (1.5-16 cells) (the salesman in the store said take it and don’t bother). So I changed it for 50,000 - it looked like new. And the second and third time I used only BRT. I drove the last one 70,000 and sold the car.
GRT only for old ones for new ones 8 klp. he is not here
I don’t understand...WHY is this belt better than BRT? Everyone says high-quality, high-quality, high-quality. What is its quality?
There is no such thing even...
Don’t forget that the imported belt is ten times better quality than the previous one. generations of this engine. The self-tensioning pulley is also sold complete with a belt and is also considered a very high-quality product. But the pump... In stores they sell either Lada-detail or Luzar. On board. I saw someone in magazines praising the DOLZ L121. I think it’s somewhat naive to just change everything, new parts can be worse than the original ones. It is necessary to carry out troubleshooting by removing the belt, checking it carefully for cracks, peeling, the pump for jamming, play, squeaks and tension similarly. And then you can bring a candle to church))))
Whose link did you see?
There are cases of 20 and 50 and 60
on the nine it broke at 55t. km, on a 4-wheeler at 52t. km, but it didn’t matter there, valves and pistons do not meet.
Usually, potassium makers write that they change it closer to 60 t.km. And at about 50t.km maintenance they check the belt and rollers
When to change the timing belt on a Grant 1.6 l 16 cl. (VAZ-21127 engine)
The camshaft drive belt on the Lada Granta with the VAZ 21127 engine does not have a certain specified mileage. This means that it must be constantly monitored despite the automatic tensioner being installed.
We check the condition of the timing belt at least once every 10-12 thousand km.
As a rule, original factory belts wear out by the 60th thousand mileage, and at 80,000 km they absolutely require replacement. In order not to miss this moment, we must take into account that the main indications for replacing the timing belt on a Grant with a VAZ 21127 engine are:
- antifreeze and other operating fluids get on the belt, but before installation it is necessary to find out the reason for their appearance; timing belt delamination; end wear of the belt, which is very dangerous; cracks on the surface; cutting of teeth; chipping and other external damage to rubber material and reinforcement.
In short, it’s better not to let it break, just as it’s better not to let the camshaft rotate relative to the crankshaft. And this can also threaten both interruptions in the operation of the engine and its complete failure. Depends on how much the timing phases are out of order.
Let's sum it up
We start the LADA Kalina engine and rejoice at the absence of extraneous noise. This indicates that the timing belt was replaced correctly. If the belt is tightened, then the hum of the roller will indicate this phenomenon. “Loosen” the tension level by unscrewing the fixing fasteners and rotating the roller in the required direction. We remember about the casing, which must be returned to its original place. When installing a new belt, do not forget about the marks. Now let's go!
Replacing the timing belt and roller on an 8-valve engine
As promised, I’m starting to write topics on engine repair and maintenance. This only applies to the 1.6 8-valve engine for now, since 16-valve engines are difficult to get, and they cost a lot of money. In general, all work is shown using the example of a figure-eight engine, which in its design is not much different from Kalina.
So, in order to replace the timing belt on Kalina 8-cl, we need the following tool:
- 10mm socket with ratchet or regular wrench
- Open-end wrench or socket wrench 17
- Flat screwdriver with wide blade
- Special key for tensioning the timing pulley
Consequences of a broken belt
A design feature of the 16-valve engines on the Lada Kalina is that the valves bend when the belt breaks. This defect is caused by the absence of grooves in the pistons, but the absence of grooves is not due to a mistake by AvtoVAZ engineers, it is necessary to increase the compression ratio in the combustion chamber. Therefore, a broken belt in a 16-valve engine foreshadows a major and expensive repair in 99% of cases.
Bent valves due to broken timing belt
To prevent the belt from breaking, it is recommended to monitor it every 20,000 km and check it.
This problem is not observed on 8-valve engines.
After how many thousand kilometers does it need to be changed?
It is impossible to accurately predict the life expectancy of a timing belt, especially if it has already been changed and a non-original mechanism part has been installed. Installing a non-original part is generally quite a risky endeavor, which can lead to unpleasant consequences for the mechanism and the engine as a whole.
When determining the frequency of replacement, you should also take into account the operating conditions of the vehicle. A number of factors affect the life of a timing belt. In addition to the fact that the part is constantly exposed to dynamic loads, temperature changes in the engine compartment, contact with random objects, ingress of liquids, dirt, etc., have an adverse effect. Damage and incorrect operation of other elements of the gas distribution mechanism can also accelerate wear.
When to change the timing belt can be found out from the technical documentation for the vehicle, since for a specific brand of car the frequency of replacement may differ due to design features, as well as the material of the product itself. On average, the timing belt needs to be changed after 50,000 kilometers of a car’s mileage, and no matter what mileage is indicated by the manufacturer, it must be taken into account that this refers to ideal operating conditions. So if the documentation states a figure of 120,000 km, then it can be safely reduced by 30-40,000 km.
For a new domestically produced car, the part usually needs to be replaced after 60,000 km, for an imported car after 70-80,000 km. If the timing belt on the car has already been changed, the timing is reduced to 50,000 and 60-70,000 km, respectively.
When a car was purchased second hand, it is not at all clear how many kilometers later a replacement is needed, whether the part is a factory one or whether the previous owner has already changed it. In addition, it is unknown how and under what conditions the car was operated. If it is not possible to clarify these points, taking into account the mileage, change the belt (if it has not been changed) immediately. When the part has already been replaced, you can travel with it about 30,000 km for a domestic car or 50,000 for an imported one.
In winter, many motorists warm up the car before driving, then the engine and, accordingly, the belt run idle, and since the vehicle is stationary, the speedometer also does not keep track of kilometers. This fact should also be taken into account and the belt should be changed not strictly within the prescribed period, but according to the circumstances. The design of the engine also plays an important role. If the model assumes two camshafts, there will be more loads on the part, and accordingly, the degree of wear will be higher.
Together with the work on changing the timing belt, the tensioner rollers are also changed, if there is no desire to check whether the mechanism will jam, whether the new belt will break or will slip this time. The tensioner roller is designed to hold the belt in a certain tensioned position. Seals and seals that prevent lubricant from leaking must be replaced. The pump (water pump) also needs to be changed, since its service life also approximately coincides with the service life of the belt. All detected leaks must be repaired when replacing the part.
The best timing belt for Lada Kalina
Choosing the best belt for Kalina is quite difficult, since when purchasing you can run into counterfeits of famous brands such as Gates and Dayco. It is these two brands that are most often counterfeited, since they are bought much more often than others. It is recommended to purchase products only from trusted stores.
From the factory, the standard belt on all Lada models is installed by Gates; AvtoVAZ gives its preference to it.
The table below shows timing belts for Lada Kalina with article numbers.
Brand | vendor code |
Gates | K015631XS |
Gates | K015521XS |
Dayco | KTB842 |
Contitech | CT1137K1 |
Types of faults
In practice, there are three types of timing belt drive faults:
- loss of integrity;
- break;
- incorrect degree of tension.
The first option is dangerous due to belt delamination. Hanging threads will indicate this phenomenon. Sheared teeth are also quite common. Such damage is caused by incorrect adjustment of some components of the mechanism, including:
- gears on camshafts;
- crankshaft pulley;
- tension roller;
- cooling circuit pump;
The belt is tensioned using a special roller with an eccentric shaft. By rotating the roller, you can increase or decrease the tension level. The main thing here is to avoid excessive tension, which will adversely affect the condition and service life of the belt. Also, you should not leave a weakened belt drive, which threatens the teeth on the shaft gears jumping. In both cases, the timing belt in the Lada Kalina will stop functioning normally.
A belt break occurs if the owner of a Lada Kalina does not take timely measures to replace this important consumable component. When such a situation occurs, further operation of the 8-valve motor is impossible. The car should be transported by tow truck to the repair site. And the timing belt will need to be replaced.