How to remove a VAZ 2109 engine without a box

Many people wonder how to remove the VAZ-2108, 2109, 21099 engine and repair it correctly. For those who do a lot of things with their own hands, I will explain, using an example with a photo, how you can remove the engine without removing the gearbox from the injection VAZ-21099. In any instructions for repairing and removing the engine from a VAZ-2108, 2109, 21099, etc. a method for removing the engine along with the gearbox is described, but it is long and very difficult, especially if there is no lift and everything has to be removed by hand. I will explain how one person can remove the engine of a VAZ-2108, 2109, 21099, etc. and without trying too hard.

We begin to remove the engine without removing the gearbox, first lift the front wheels with a jack and place a brick under them, or simply run over the bricks and secure the car with the handbrake or put something under the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Since it’s summer and hot, I’ll remove the engine in the garden under the shade of a tree. After the car is installed with the front wheels on bricks, we begin to remove the engine, first drain the oil from the engine and remove the air filter, but be careful; the wires approach the filter; carefully disconnect them; in the photo the engine is already without an air filter.

The reason for removing the engine from the VAZ-21099 was the connecting rod knocking.

Photo. Engine VAZ-21099

I won’t describe in what order to remove which wire or hose, since once you decide to remove the engine, you are a good friend and can figure out the details yourself, but I will explain the main work of removing the engine.

Photo. Ignition module

Unscrew the ignition module in the photo, it is indicated by an arrow and move it to the side so that it does not interfere, unscrew the plug on the block and drain the liquid.

Photo. Disconnected hoses from head

Disconnect all the wire plugs from the head, and unscrew the hoses, unscrew the throttle cable, try to remember where everything is or write it down. But the good thing is that all the plugs are different and it is impossible to mix them up.

Photo. Unscrew the fuel line hoses

When unscrewing the fuel line hoses, be sure to use two 17mm wrenches. so as not to break the tubes, as shown in the photo. Be sure to remember which hose is located where, they should not be confused.

Photo. Unscrew the camshaft pulley

After all the wires and tubes are removed from the head, but do not remove those tubes that are directly on the head; they do not interfere and will be removed along with the head. Unscrew the muffler and camshaft pulley.

Photo. Unscrewing the head bolts

All that remains is to remove the head, it can be removed together with the camshaft, but since I came across sprocket bolts and the head does not go through and interferes with the camshaft, I had to unscrew that too, but if the bolts are hexagonal, then I remove them together with the camshaft.

Removing the injector head VAZ 21083. Video

Photo. Head removed from engine

Next, unscrew the pipe, the upper bolts of the generator and the gearbox bolts (three bolts and one nut), they are indicated by arrows in the photo.

Photo. Engine, bottom view

Unscrew the wires from the generator and the generator mount itself is indicated by an arrow in the photo, and remove the generator.

Unscrew the crab, it is shown in the photo, I almost unscrewed it, there is only one bolt left, and loosen the rear link bolt.

Photo. Unscrewed crab

Place the unscrewed crab to the side as shown in the photo.

Photo. Fixed motor

Next, fix the engine as shown in the photo, you can use the timing belt and, in order to avoid scratching the car, place a rag under the brick, as shown in the photo. Loosen the engine mount and unscrew the mount from the engine itself, grab the belt and pull out the pipe that fixed the engine, lower the engine.

Photo. Lowered engine

After lowering the engine, it 50/50 comes off the box on its own, but if it doesn’t come off, pry it with a pry bar and it will come off.

Photo. Removed engine

In the photo you can see the completely removed engine, all that remains is to put it on its side and pull it out. Also, to make it easier to pull the engine out, you can put a sweaty rag or tarp under it in advance and pull the engine out on it. You can install the engine this way, but in reverse order, that’s what I do. But when installing the engine, I pass a large belt or rope under the engine and pull it from the bottom onto the box with an assistant.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the structure of the “heart” of the iron horse. This will help avoid many problems associated with incorrect connection of individual system elements, such as:

Beginners are advised to take photographs of the listed parts in assembled form. In order to successfully dismantle the VAZ engine, it is necessary to use the tools recommended by the manufacturer. A list of these can be found in the vehicle operating instructions. Regardless of the reason that prompted the need to carry out removal and diagnostics, you must adhere to the following scheme:

A carefully removed car ignition module will help you remove the engine correctly. Due to the fragile nature of the device, do not use excessive physical force. After this, the plug located on the block is dismantled. Only after all the liquid has been drained is the next element removed.

All plugs from the drive are disconnected in random order. The same thing happens with the throttle and hose cables. Before starting this stage, it is better to use a camera to record the initial position. The photo will be useful when the installation of the VAZ engine begins.

Literally, pinpoint precision is required when it comes to removing the hose leading to the gas line. To do this, you need a key set to “17”, which will not break the rather fragile system. Here, as in the case described above, it is necessary to carry out recording using a photo.

When returning the VAZ engine to its rightful place, the photograph will help to correctly connect all the elements. There is no room for error here. Only after you have completed removing all the tubes on the “head” can you move on to those parts that are directly attached to it.

Causes

There are several most common reasons why a car owner has to remove the engine from his car.

Cause

Peculiarities

In the event of a serious accident or as a result of wear of key engine elements, it will not be possible to restore its functionality without a removal procedure. Therefore, they resort to dismantling the engine

It’s not uncommon for VAZ 2109 owners to think about replacing the standard factory engine with a more efficient, powerful power unit. This is a serious step, where dismantling is one of the initial stages

If there is no opportunity or desire to change the engine, some simply modify the existing one. Tuning can be quite complex, involving the need to completely remove the engine from the engine compartment

Regardless of the reasons, you need to remove the engine carefully, following a clear sequence of your actions. Decide in advance whether you will dismantle the engine together with the gearbox or without removing it.

Actions requiring increased caution

Remove the muffler and camshaft pulley last. Further actions are taken taking into account the actual situation. If the star bolts are covered with a layer of dirt and oil, then there is no need to unscrew them. Remove everything together with the camshaft. It is better to unscrew them if the motor has been used recently.

The front crankshaft pulley will help you remove the engine correctly. To do this, it is recommended to use a folding key. It is installed through the top, not through the bottom. Before using it, it is recommended to switch to speed 4-5. After this, the VAZ engine is more easily subject to normalized physical impact. If the above recommendations do not help ease the movement of the key, you must use the services of an assistant.

One of the assistants gets into the car and presses the brake pedal. In this case, it is easier to remove the front crankshaft pulley. After this, the pipe and the generator bolts located on top are dismantled.

If the transmission bolts show signs of physical wear or significant contamination, it is better to replace them.

In this case, removing the engine will reduce the likelihood of failure in the future. After all, no one knows when the next time a car owner will look under the hood.

When removing the wires from the generator, it is necessary to gradually loosen the fastening of the device itself. The more accurately your hand moves, the less likely it is to get damaged. After this, the “crab” is removed with no less care. It is secured with two bolts, which we remove using a wrench. Before unscrewing the last bolt, the device is slowly moved to the side.

Boosting methods

In most cases, achieving the required indicators is achieved by increasing the volume of the car engine. To accomplish a task of this kind, there are several options:

The first involves increasing the diameter of the cylinder block to accommodate a larger piston diameter by boring. It is called “folk” because of its low cost, because in this case all that requires expenses is the purchase of a set of pistons and wheels, as well as payment for turning services.

The second is to replace the factory crankshaft with one that has a larger crank radius and therefore a larger piston stroke and larger volume. Its cost is much higher than the first method, since you will have to spend money on a crankshaft, a set of pistons suitable for the new crankshaft (since the height of the cylinder block has certain restrictions), and special rings for the pistons. In addition, it will be necessary to pay for work related to block boring.

Preparing for the reverse process

The process is completed by fixing the VAZ engine using a timing belt. It would be a good idea to use 1-2 bricks to help prevent the engine from falling. After making sure that the massive unit is fixed in space, the cushion is loosened and the engine is directly removed. Having secured the belt with your hand, you need to slowly remove the pipe.

If by this time the engine has not come off on its own, it is recommended to use a pry bar. After this, the unit is transferred to a temporary storage location for subsequent work with it. You need to remember - install everything in exactly the reverse order. If some elements have reached the end of their service life, it is better to replace them in advance.

The process of removing the “heart” of a car is complex and multi-stage. Accuracy and precision of actions is the key to successful repairs on your own. After removal, it is recommended to carry out a mandatory inspection of all engine components.

Oil change features

Filter and plug position

Changing the oil in a VAZ 2109 engine is not the most common process, but you can handle this task as needed. If you buy a used car from another person, you need to change the lubricant in the engine as quickly as possible. Repairing the steering rack on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands (video) The steering rack in front-wheel drive cars is fully responsible for the functionality of the entire steering mechanism. With all this, it is recommended to flush the engine with a special liquid, because it is not clear to you exactly what was filled in earlier.

"Nine for Nine" - Part 2 | Engine replacement | How to remove a VAZ-2109 engine Part 1 | I bought a VAZ-2109 for 9,000 rubles. Hi all! This is the 2nd part of the video “Nine. Part 1. Repair of VAZ 2114 Engine repair after 180,000 km.

It is also recommended to change the oil if you have not used the VAZ 2109 for a long time. Similar posts. Replacing the rear light of a VAZ 2115 with your own hands - step-by-step instructions. When the engine is not started for a long time, condensation accumulates in it and mixes with the lubricant, causing a deterioration in its performance and ultimately increasing wear on all internal parts of the unit.

To extend the service life of the oil poured into the engine, stop driving quickly or accelerating too fast. Tuning VAZ 2109 with your own hands. Refinement of interior, engine. We strongly recommend that you fill in a certain type of oil for each season - winter or summer. Replacing the engine mount on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands. Always refuel only with high-quality fuel at reputable gas stations. Dirty fuel does not burn completely, causing contamination of the lubricant.

If you are interested in changing the transmission oil in the gearbox of this Russian car, read a separate article on the website.

How to remove a VAZ-2109 engine yourself (carburetor, injector)

The engine is often called the most important element of a car. There are situations when it needs to be replaced or repaired. For example, when replacing piston rings. This is a rather complex multi-step process. If desired, dismantling can be done independently. We recommend that you ask a friend for help. Working together is safer, easier and more fun. If you have ever replaced a windshield wiper motor, it will be easier for you to change the motor. Let's look at how to remove the VAZ-2109 engine yourself without turning to auto mechanics.

Causes

There are several most common reasons why a car owner has to remove the engine from his car.

Cause

Peculiarities

Preparation

At the preparatory stage, short but very important, it is worth completely de-energizing the car by disconnecting the battery. You also need to remove all hoses, speed and clutch sensors. Be sure to drain the oil from the engine crankcase and the liquid that cools the radiator. Removing the engine without removing the gearbox:

first of all, you need to put a reliable support under the car, preferably wooden stumps;
unscrew the left crab, move the stretcher to the side;
remove the generator from the engine;
remove the tensioner pin, pump, distributor and receiving pipe;
do not forget to remove the head if you are planning a major overhaul;
the motor must be removed from the box and lowered to the floor;
in order to get the engine, you need to raise the front part higher (this is done using a jack);
you can also just pull everything through the top.

What to put?

Indeed, the most important issue among VAZ 2109 owners is the range of engines that may be under the hood of their car.

Let's look at several popular solutions that are most often found among those who decide to change the engine on their VAZ 2109.

Option

Peculiarities

Gas is a cheaper alternative to gasoline, which will allow you to save big in the future at gas stations. This replacement is called the easiest. But you should take into account the fact that such a replacement will pay off only if the car is used frequently, and you will have a gas cylinder in the trunk. Such work can only be done by specialists with appropriate qualifications and permits.

VAZ injector 1.5 liters

A good alternative that will allow you to extract more power from your improved car. The injector is more powerful, it requires less fuel, and provides better dynamics. But in practice, changing engines from VAZ to VAZ is not the best solution, since there are many options among more reliable, powerful imported cars

3.2.8 Removing and installing an engine without a gearbox

The engine without gearbox is removed upwards from the engine compartment using a lifting mechanism. It is also possible to remove the engine together with the gearbox, however, this is much more difficult, since this requires installing the car on a lift and using an additional lift to lower the engine together with the gearbox, having first disconnected and removed the units that prevent the lowering of the power unit.

Remove the negative cable from the battery.
Warning
On vehicles with air conditioning, elements of the air conditioning system can make it difficult to work on the engine, and it is not always possible to unscrew the bolts and move the system elements to the side due to the insufficient length of their hoses. In this case, the air conditioning system must be discharged by a Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist.

Remove the crankcase protection and mudguard.

Remove the radiator grille.

Disconnect the hood opening cable from the hood closing mechanism and remove it from the clamps.

Remove the hood, first marking the position of the hinges to facilitate re-installation and disconnect the windshield washer tube.

Drain the coolant from the cooling system by placing a suitable container under the radiator drain plug and opening the drain plug located at the bottom of the radiator. To speed up the draining of the coolant, open the expansion tank cap. To drain the coolant from the cylinder block, unscrew the drain bolt located in the cylinder block.

To provide additional work space, remove the radiator.

Disconnect the coolant hoses from the water pump housing on the left side of the engine and the cylinder head.

Loosen the clamps and remove the pipes and hoses of the cooling system: – upper and lower radiator pipes; – expansion tank hoses; – hoses of the interior heating system from the cylinder head and the cooling system pump; – housing of the automatic carburetor starter.

10.

Drain the engine oil and remove the filter.

11.

Unscrew the four bolts securing the upper front cross member, the two bolts on both sides at the top and the two lower bolts securing the cross member support and remove it together with the radiator.

12.

Remove the air filter.

13.

Remove the breather hose from the cylinder head cover and unscrew the bolt securing the hose support hanger to the left front side of the cylinder head.

14.

Remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump and plug it with a plug.

15.

Disconnect the brake booster vacuum pipe from the intake manifold.

16.

Disconnect the electrical wires and remove the connectors from the following units and sensors: – generator; – starter; – radiator fan; – speed and crankshaft position sensor; – temperature sensor; – engine control system temperature sensor; – oil pressure sensor; – ignition distributor; – ignition coils; – components of the fuel injection system and fuel injectors; – throttle position sensor; – fuel temperature sensor; – automatic air damper heater; – radiator temperature sensor.

Removal from gearbox

Follow the instructions clearly, be sure to watch the video tutorials. Plus, don't forget to check the condition of all engine mounts, since you'll probably be reassembling it again. All damaged elements will have to be replaced without fail.

First, disconnect the battery to completely cut off the power to the car.
Drain the oil from the engine crankcase. Here it is better for the engine to be warm. This will allow the oil to drain out faster.
Drain the coolant from the cooling system. A cold motor is already required here. Be careful.
To disconnect the exhaust systems, you will have to completely remove the engine crankcase protection and dismantle the exhaust pipe.
Remove the air filter housing, and then disconnect all hoses from the engine, power wiring, sensors, damper rods, and brake system vacuum hoses.
Unscrew the fastening nut of the ground wire, put on the stud and located on the clutch housing.
Disconnect the cooling system pipes and turn off the thermostat.
Disconnect the central high voltage from the ignition distributor. After this, you can release the clamp of the block with the supply wiring and remove the entire block.
Disconnect the fuel supply hoses from the fuel pump. To do this, just loosen the fastening clamp.
Unscrew the adjusting nuts to remove the drive cable from the clutch lever.
Disconnect the power supply wires from the starter - one wire from the battery going to the solenoid relay and the wiring block.
Switch off the generator in the same way.
Deprive power by disconnecting the corresponding wires from the coolant temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor.
Disconnect a pair of pipes from the radiator for the car interior. Loosen the clamps, which will allow you to remove the elements.
We go directly under the car. Here it is better to have a pit or overpass available, otherwise it is inconvenient and unsafe to remove the engine while lying down.
Unscrew the fastening nuts of the drive rod from the tip of the gearbox shift joint. The speedometer drive rod and the reverse sensor are also disconnected here. You need to disconnect the power wires.
Disconnect both guy wires, right and left. Before this, you need to loosen the clamp of the tensioner fastening nut to the suspension arm on both sides. Next, unscrew the three bolts of the bracket to the car body. It is not necessary to remove them completely, but just move them to the side. This way they will not interfere with further processes.
The next step is to disconnect the tie rods. To achieve the desired result, remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut. Next, armed with a special puller, press the pin out of the swing arm.
We perform the same actions with the ball joint, which will need to be similarly disconnected from the lever.
Using a pry bar, pull out the upper tail of the front wheel drive and move it slightly to the side. Don't forget to insert a technological plug in place of this tail. A plug from an old grenade will suit you just fine, if you have one available.
Now comes the stage of directly dismantling the power unit itself.
Securely secure the motor by tying it by the eyelets using a strong rope or metal wire. Rym translated from Dutch “ring” means ring. That is, instead of a head, the eye bolt and eye nut end in a ring. And the eye bolt and eye nut are intended for gripping and moving machines, parts, as well as during installation, disassembly, loading, etc.

Top extraction process

The fastening rope is properly attached to the support or winch. It is best to remove the motor from the top, but a lifting mechanism will come in handy here.
You can also remove the engine through the bottom. To do this, the engine is lowered to the floor, after which the front of the car is raised with jacks. Here, act at your own discretion and do not forget that the motor weighs quite a lot. We strongly do not recommend trying to get it out manually.
Once you have secured the engine with ropes and a winch, unscrew the motor mounting nuts holding it to the supports.
That's it, nothing now prevents you from removing the engine from its seat.
Act as carefully as possible so that the engine elements are not damaged during removal, it does not touch or damage the body, and also does not fall off the mounts at the most inopportune moment.

Homemade support for dismantling

Accuracy is the main requirement when independently dismantling the power unit from a VAZ 2109 or any other car. Be sure to enlist the support of a partner, since it is quite difficult to complete all stages with two hands.

Take your time, don't try to get the job done in a few hours. It may take several days to remove the motor. The main thing here is not speed, but the quality and care of each manipulation.

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Removing the VAZ 2109 engine

If a VAZ 2109 is involved in an accident and receives serious damage to the front end of the body, you will have to unload the power unit from its place. Otherwise, it is impossible to reach deformed elements and parts. In this case, we are dealing with a VAZ 2109, which needs to replace the side members. Removing the engine is not as complicated a procedure as it might seem at first glance. You can even do this job alone, but it will be much faster and more fun with an assistant.

It’s good if you have a hoist with a lifting capacity of at least 800 kg, it will greatly facilitate the task. Although in extreme situations you can cope without it. So, let’s unload the VAZ 2109 engine. Let’s not dwell on the preparatory work for removing the engine; everyone already understands that you need to unplug the connectors, remove the battery, disconnect the radiator hoses, speed sensor connector, clutch cable, etc. Let us pay attention to only a few points. We put the car on the handbrake, remove the plastic caps from the hubs and unscrew the hub nuts. To do this, we put an assistant behind the wheel and ask him to press the brake pedal. Now the wheels are locked tightly and you can remove both nuts. You can make a hub key with your own hands. For this, a piece of water pipe 70-80 cm long is useful, to the end of which a socket head is welded at 30. We put the socket head on the hub nut and stand on the edge of the pipe with both feet. It is useless to use keys from standard sets; they will either break or bend. Next, loosen the nuts of the front wheels, put the car on reliable supports and remove both wheels. We install supports under the front jacks. Then we dismantle the engine crankcase protection and drain the oil from the box. On both sides, unscrew the bolts securing the supports to the steering knuckles.

We pull back the front suspension struts so that the splined shafts of the outer CV joints come out of them. For greater convenience, when removing the spline shaft of the right CV joint, turn the steering wheel completely to the left. Don’t forget to pick up the thick washers of the wheel nuts that have fallen out of the hubs. Remove the drives of both wheels. We dismantle the radiator and generator. We tie the slings to the engine. The slings will be a nylon halyard 8-11 mm thick. We insert one end into two eyelets on the gearbox, and the other into an eyelet on the cylinder head. We tie the ends together with a woman's knot. It is important that the knot rises 30-40 cm above the engine. You get two branches - with a knot and a smooth one. We insert a hoist hook under both branches of the halyard. We set the slack in such a way as to balance the weight of the engine. We climb under the VAZ 2109, unscrew the fastening of the exhaust pipe to the muffler, the gear shift rod from the gearbox and the nut of the rear engine mount. Don't forget about the electrical ground wire. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the front and left engine mounts, and remove the bolts. They may become stubborn and not leave their place. This means that the sling is too tight or too loose. Again, the tension should balance the engine. We put the crankcase protection “trough” under the crankcase and release the engine onto it. We tie a nylon halyard to the front attachment points of the “trough” and lift the front of the VAZ 2109 with a hoist. As a result, we pull out the engine without interference.