Replacing the timing belt on engine 2105. alignment of marks

The installation of a camshaft in the cylinder head of passenger cars led to a reduction in the metal consumption of the engine design, since the need for rods and rocker arms disappeared. But it was necessary to provide a camshaft drive. Initially, a chain was used for this, but over time it was replaced by a belt, although it did not completely replace the chain.

Timing drive diagram of a VAZ 2105 car

For the first time, a belt drive in VAZ cars was used on the VAZ-2105 model. But the engine with such a drive was experimental, so it was not installed on all cars; some models were sold with an engine from the VAZ-2101 and 2103, which had a timing chain drive.

Replacing the timing chain on a VAZ 2106 on your own

1. Remove the air filter housing from the carburetor.

2. Unscrew three nuts with a “10” wrench and four more with a “8” wrench.

3. Be careful not to drop anything above the carburetor, otherwise it will have to be removed, possibly even along with the intake manifold.

4. Next, remove the distributor cap and the fuel supply pipe.

5. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the eight nuts securing the valve cover, then remove the washers with the plates.

6. Remove the choke cable and throttle valve drive.

7. Remove the valve cover with the gasket, which is also better to change.

8. Now you need to remove the protection from below and drain the antifreeze into the prepared container.

9. Loosen the generator mounting nut with a “19” key.

10. Loosen the clamps on the pipes and remove them.

11. Next, you need to loosen the clamp on the lower pipe of the water pump and remove it.

12. Turn off power to the fan and temperature sensor on the radiator.

13. The radiator, along with the pipes and thermostat, also needs to be removed.

14. Loosen the generator tensioner nut, then use a pry bar to slide it forward.

15. Remove the VAZ 2106 generator belt.

16. Using a key set to “36”, turn the crankshaft by the pulley to align the marks on the cover and pulley, as well as on the sprocket and camshaft bed casting.

17. Unscrew the “36” nut that secures the crankshaft pulley. Lock the pulley using a special key and unscrew it. If you do not have a special key, engage fifth gear, press the brake pedal, then use the key to unscrew it.

18. Remove the pulley. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the six bolts and three nuts, as well as the three bolts from the bottom of the camshaft drive cover and remove the cover.

19. Unscrew the two nuts securing the chain tensioner, then remove it.

20. Unscrewed the bolt securing the camshaft sprocket and removed it. Mark or try to remember the alignment position. After that I saw the following picture.

1. A fuse that prevents the circuit from jumping.
2. Fastening the timing chain tensioner shoe.
3. Crankshaft sprocket.

21. Using a “10” key, unscrew the fuse, as well as the tensioner fastening and the bolt securing the auxiliary drive sprocket.

22. Remove the sprockets and old timing chain. Check if the marks match; the crankshaft key should match the casting on the cylinder block.

23. Install new sprockets on the drive, accessories and crankshaft. Lubricate the new chain thoroughly and put it in place.

24. Place some kind of tool to prevent it from falling down.

25. The camshaft sprocket is placed in the chain so that during installation on the camshaft the descending branch of the chain is in tension and all marks coincide. Rotate the camshaft counterclockwise and back behind the crankshaft. This way the chain is tensioned and it is possible to evaluate the correct installation of the marks. If the marks do not match, transfer the chain to the tooth and repeat the procedure again.

26. Place the chain tensioner in place, then activate it. Tighten all mounting bolts and “lock” them. After turning the crankshaft two turns, make sure that the marks match and the valves do not meet the pistons.

27. Lubricate the crankshaft cover gasket with sealant and put it in place.

28. Place the pulley, check again that the marks match and tighten it.

29. Unscrew the nut on “13” of the distributor, then take it out and turn the slider so that it faces the contact of the fourth cylinder.

30. Install the distributor in place, and do not forget to turn on the ignition after completing the procedure for replacing the VAZ 2106 timing chain.

Then everything is assembled in reverse order, antifreeze is added, etc.

Actually, that’s it, replacing the timing chain on a VAZ 2106 with your own hands is completed, I hope it’s successful!? Thank you for stopping by, all the best, see you again at VAZ DIY Repair!

Photo gallery

Photo 1. Aligning the camshaft and pulley marks Photo 2. Strap placement diagram

Photo 3. Checking the tension of the consumables

Replacement procedure

The first step is to align all the marks by turning the crankshaft until the groove on the generator drive pulley aligns with the long mark on the front cover of the cylinder block. At the same time, the mark on the camshaft gear should be in front of the protrusion on the valve compartment cover. At the same time, the contact of the slider will be opposite the wire going to the spark plug of the 4th or 1st cylinder.

Further steps are performed in the following sequence:

1. Loosen the tension pulley nut, turn it with a 30 mm wrench and reduce the belt tension, then remove it from the gears.
2. Unscrew the roller completely and install a new one.
3. Put on the new belt, being careful not to dislodge the marks. All that remains is to tighten it and assemble the mechanism in the reverse order.

When replacing the timing belt drive, it is important to consider one point. In addition to the crankshaft and camshaft, the belt rotates another gear - the drive shaft of the oil pump and mechanical ignition distributor

There are no marks on this gear, and it rotates quite easily, which is why, when replacing, you can accidentally disturb its original position.

This will not affect the operation of the oil pump in any way, but the distributor slider will move in one direction or another. This will lead to early or late formation of a flash in the cylinder, and the operation of the power unit will be extremely unstable.

A motorist whose V-5 belt broke while on the road will probably encounter this problem. In this situation, the procedure is as follows:

1. Having aligned all the marks, as described above, you need to turn the gear so that the slider is positioned opposite the high-voltage wire of the 1st cylinder.
2. Put on and tighten the timing belt, put back the covers, generator drive and battery.
3. Screw in the spark plugs, connect the high-voltage wires and start the engine.
4. The engine may not start, then you need to turn the crankshaft to align all the marks again.
5. Remove the distributor cover, unscrew it from the cylinder block and lift it to remove the shaft from the splines.
6. Rotate the slider 180° regardless of which cylinder it was “looking at” before - the 1st or 4th.
7. Put the distributor in place and screw it on.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=se9V2Wo7I7g

After this manipulation the engine will start. There is an easier way - swap the wires on the cover, but then you may forget about it and not set up the ignition as expected.

Signs of poor valve clearance

Before describing the adjustment process, you should understand the signs of incorrect clearance, as well as what this leads to. So, the main sign of a broken timing gap is a metallic knock at the top of the engine. Usually this knocking sound initially appears only in a certain operating mode, but over time it will be heard in all modes.

Of course, the gap can either decrease from the nominal value or become larger. Both decreasing and increasing the gap will primarily lead to a loss of power. With a smaller gap, the lever will tighten the valve, which will significantly reduce the tightness in the cylinder and ensure a drop in compression. As a result, this can lead to burning of the valve edge and its seat.

An increased gap will affect the filling of the cylinder combustion chamber, since its opening time will be reduced, and exhaust gas removal will also be incomplete. To avoid the above problems, it is necessary that the VAZ-2105 valves be adjusted after approximately 15-20 thousand km, as well as at the first appearance of a violation of the thermal clearance.

DEVICE AND FEATURES OF THE TIMING BELT DRIVE OF THE VAZ 2107 CAR

Production of the 8-valve 1.3-liter VAZ power unit with a belt instead of a timing chain began in 1979. Initially, the VAZ 2105 internal combustion engine was produced with the index 21011 and was intended for the Zhiguli model of the same name, but was later installed on other Tolyatti cars - the VAZ 2107 sedan and the VAZ 2104 station wagon. The decision to install a belt drive instead of a timing chain drive was caused by the increased noise of the latter. The engine, which was not the quietest, began to make even more noise as the mechanism parts wore out. The modernization made the power unit more modern, but in return it required increased attention to the condition of individual structural elements.

The functions that were previously performed by the chain were assigned to a belt drive. Thanks to it, it is set in motion:

Transverse teeth on the timing drive parts prevent slipping of the rubber structural element and ensure synchronous operation of the crank and gas distribution mechanisms. At the same time, during operation the belt stretches, so to prevent it from jumping on the pulley teeth, the drive was equipped with an automatic tension unit.

INTERCHANGEABILITY OF VAZ TIMING BELTS

The prototype of the VAZ “belt” engine was the OHC power unit, which was installed on the FORD Pinto passenger car. Its timing mechanism drove a fiberglass-reinforced timing belt that had 122 teeth. Due to the fact that the VAZ 2105 belt has exactly the same number of teeth and similar dimensions, some owners of the domestic “classic” had an alternative to Russian-made belts. Of course, only a few had such an opportunity - in times of total shortages, one had to be content with less reliable products. Initially, only belts from BRT were installed on the engine, but a little later, more durable belts from Gates, which is the world leader in this market segment, began to be supplied to the conveyors of the Volzhsky plant.

Today, the owner of a VAZ 2107 has a huge selection of spare parts, including for the timing belt drive. When purchasing, you must keep in mind that the VAZ 2105 power unit is suitable for timing belts with catalog number 2105–1006040 (in another spelling 21051006040). It has already been said above that rubber products produced by Gates and Bosch are considered to be some of the best. The products of global industry giants such as Contitech, Kraft, Hanse, GoodYear and Wego are no less high-quality. The cheaper offers of domestic Luzar cause the most criticism, despite the fact that they are not represented in the retail network as widely as the market leaders.

On my own behalf, I can add that owners of “sevens” can use a standard timing belt from FORD cars. Belts from OHC engines of Pinto, Capri, Scorpio, Sierra and Taunus cars of 1984 and later are suitable for the “five” engine. Please note that until 1984, the 122-tooth belt was installed exclusively on power units with a volume of 1800 cm3 and 2000 cm3. The drive element of the weaker 1.3 and 1.6 cc power units was shorter and had 119 teeth.

TENSION MECHANISM

In order for the timing belt of the VAZ 2107 to be constantly tensioned, a simple (one might even say primitive), but at the same time extremely effective and reliable design is used. Its basis is a shaped metal plate (hereinafter referred to as the tensioner lever), on which a smooth roller with a pressed-in rolling bearing is mounted. The plate base has a hole and a slot for movably attaching the lever to the cylinder block. The pressure on the belt is carried out thanks to a powerful steel spring, which at one end is connected to a bracket on the rotating plate, and at the other is rigidly attached to a bolt screwed into the cylinder block.

During operation, both the surface where the roller contacts the rubber belt and the bearing wear out. For this reason, when replacing the timing belt, be sure to check the condition of the tensioner unit. If the roller is in good condition, then the bearing is washed, after which a fresh portion of lubricant is added. At the slightest suspicion, the rotating structural element should be replaced. By the way, some drivers prefer to install a new roller at the same time as replacing the belt, without waiting until its bearing fails. It must be said that today the cost of this part ranges from 400 to 600 rubles, so their actions can be considered quite appropriate.

replacing timing belt 2105. .

Where is the timing belt located?

First, let's remember where the timing belt is located and what it looks like. Its location is in front of the engine, but do not forget that motors come in longitudinal and transverse locations. In most cases, gas distribution mechanisms use a toothed rubber belt, but in a considerable number of car models from different manufacturers, a steel chain is also used for this.

Engine cylinders can be equipped with two or four valves with one and two camshafts (CV), respectively. The kinematics of the gas distribution mechanisms of such engines differ. We will show them using the example of 8- and 16-valve power units for the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112.

The scheme with two shafts is more complicated, and in it, in addition to the pulley of the second RV, a support roller is added. This also complicates the belt replacement procedure. It is most difficult to perform this operation after a break or severe stretching of the belt, when the factory timing settings can be completely lost. Replacing in normal mode is not so difficult that you can’t try to do it yourself.

What do you need for repairs?

Before repairing, you must prepare the necessary tools. If your car has a modern VAZ-2105 engine, then to repair the gas distribution mechanism you will need to have sets of ring and open-end wrenches (with numbers 10, 13, 17, 30), a socket wrench for 17. Purchase new components in advance - a tension roller and a belt.

You don’t need to choose a cheap belt, then it will last a long time and fit perfectly. It is not necessary to change the tension roller along with the belt, but most car enthusiasts do complex repairs. This is necessary so as not to disassemble the mechanism several times.

Replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2105, 2104, 21072: tension, marks

In this article we will describe in detail the procedure for replacing the timing belt on VAZ 2105, 2104, 21072 cars. These models have one VAZ 2105 engine installed, so the procedure will be general.

Model features

If we turn to history, then for the first time the belt drive of the gas distribution mechanism in cars of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant began to be used on the VAZ 2105 model: an engine with such a drive was an experiment, and was not installed on all cars (some of them used a motor from the VAZ 2101 and 2103 models, having a timing chain drive).

And also, this version was the first in the Soviet era to drive the gas distribution mechanism using a belt instead of a chain, like other models. This experience can hardly be called a success, because the engine became known for its unstable operation and frequent leaks of engine oil.

But, thanks to the efforts of Soviet engineers, the mechanism is absolutely safe to use. A broken belt on a VAZ 2105 does not lead to a collision of pistons with valves, since the former have special rounded recesses on top, and this will not require engine repair.

During standard use, belt replacement in 2105 is necessary in the following cases:

• The mileage is around 60 thousand km.
• Damage appears on the rubber (tears, cracks).
• Major engine repairs are being carried out.

Engine parameters and features

The VAZ 2105 engine is used on the VAZ 2104, 2105 and 21072 models. It has a camshaft belt drive and the following main parameters:

• engine capacity 1.3 l,
• power 64 horsepower,
• maximum luggage compartment volume – up to 385 liters,
• fuel consumption in the city – 10 liters per 100 km,
• in the combined cycle - 8 liters per 100 km.

Cars based on this engine use 5W-30-15W40 oil and AI 93 fuel. The engine life, according to the factory, is 125, in practice - about 200, 4 cylinders and 2 valves, power system - carburetor, type - in-line. Torque is approximately 94 Nm at 3400 rpm. The piston stroke and cylinder diameter are 66 and 79 mm, respectively.

And also, when repairing the timing belt on the 2105, do not forget about the features of this engine. The use of a toothed belt in the gas distribution mechanism drive instead of a classic metal chain made it possible to achieve quieter operation of the machine. In addition, the belt tension has become automatic, removing an extra lubrication point, which has significantly reduced engine oil losses.

Replacement procedure

1. Remove the alternator belt.
2. Remove the top belt cover.
3. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshaft gear coincide with the marks on its housing, on the crankshaft pulley and the drive cover.
4. Remove the middle and bottom belt covers (out of a total of 3 pieces, the first was removed in step 1)
5. Remove spring 7, loosen bolts 3, move the bracket to the left as far as it will go and remove the belt.
6. Put on a new belt, press out the bracket and install spring 7.

Tension adjustment

According to the regulations, it is required every 15 thousand km. Check the timing belt tension on this engine and adjust the tension if necessary.

To adjust the tension you need to:

1. Remove the timing belt cover.
2. Loosen bolts No. 3.
3. Turn the crankshaft by the hexagon of the ratchet several turns. It must be turned clockwise.
4. When performing the previous step, spring No. 6 will provide optimal tension automatically.
5. Tighten No. 3 bolts.
6. Put on the timing belt guard.

Frequency of replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2105

Replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2105 is necessary approximately every 60 thousand km during standard use, but in case of some damage it becomes necessary to replace the timing belt earlier than the standard period. Despite a certain motor resource set at the factory (in our case - 125), malfunctions occur quite often and their elimination is critical for continued use of the machine.

If folds, cracks, or fraying of the belt appear, it must be replaced, since when using a timing belt on a VAZ 2105 in this condition, there is a danger of rupture when the engine is running. When oiling, you should carefully wipe the belt with a cloth, after dipping it in gasoline.

How does the gas distribution mechanism work?

On the VAZ-2105, a belt drive for a gas distribution mechanism was used for the first time. It became experimental, which is why you can still find cars equipped with a chain drive. They received their engines from VAZ-2103 and VAZ-2101.

The advantage of cars equipped with a belt drive is that they are easy to maintain - you can replace a worn part with your own hands, without visiting a service station. The disadvantage is that the belt needs to be changed more often than the chain. The main signs of wear are protruding threads, discoloration, and tears.

The chain wears out over a longer period of time and is less likely to break. It is double-row, but this does not protect against possible stretching during long-term use. The disadvantage of chain drive engines is that this timing element is located inside the engine due to the need for constant lubrication. Repairs need to be done at the moment when the engine begins to run noisier.

Required Tool

Next, let's look at how to replace the chain and belt on the 2105. First, you need to understand the tools and accessories required to perform this operation; there are not many of them.

To replace the chain drive you will need:

• Open-end and spanner wrenches (10, 13, 17);
• Crankshaft pulley nut wrench (36);
• Flat screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• New chain;

And to replace the belt you will need even fewer tools:

• Open-end and spanner wrenches (10, 13, 30);
• Socket wrench (17);
• New belt;
• Chain replacement

Having all this, you can start working. First, let's look at the chain replacement sequence. To do this, it is better to place the car on an overpass or inspection hole, and put wheel chocks under the wheels.

Preparation for service operations

Control of the tension of the chain drive of the gas distribution mechanism begins on an engine with a power system such as an injector or carburetor, similar to each other. The operation is performed in the sequence established by the manufacturer:

1. We place the car on a flat area with a hard surface and fix its spontaneous movement by installing chocks under the wheels and applying the parking brake. Set the gear shift lever to the neutral position.
2. Remove the cover from the cylinder head by unscrewing all the nuts along its contour using a tubular wrench. It is recommended to replace the old gasket; the use of sealants is not allowed.
3. Using a key set to “38”, we turn the crankshaft of the VAZ 2107 engine in order to align the marks on the moving parts and the stationary ones. Care must be taken when performing this action, and the locations of the control points should be illuminated with a flashlight or carrying device.
4. We combine two marks: the first is on the generator drive belt pulley with a special protrusion on the cover body, the second is on the upper sprocket of the gas distribution mechanism of the VAZ 2107 power unit with an injector power system.

With this relative arrangement of parts, the piston of the fourth cylinder is at the dead center at the top. Now you can begin performing service work on engine systems, in particular, timing belt and some others.

Useful notes

If you have a “seven” with a carburetor, then after replacing the timing chain you need to adjust the ignition, because the drive sprocket of the ignition distributor-distributor (in common parlance, distributor) was also removed from its seat. Injection models do not require such adjustment.

Soviet and early Russian cars of the classic family were traditionally equipped with double-row timing chains. This provided increased reliability due to the fact that the break of one link did not provoke an instant collision of the piston with the valve in the open position. The disadvantage was the increased weight. In order to save money and simplify the design, the chain began to be made single-row. The resource of a double chain reaches 100 - 120 thousand kilometers, while a single chain is half as much. Some car owners are returning a double-row chain to their power units. True, for this you will also have to replace all the gears that mesh with the chain. Today, a set of such parts is quite difficult to find, so get ready for search work if you want to increase the reliability of the timing mechanism.

A double-row timing chain has a much longer life, but choosing a set of parts for its installation is much more difficult

The timing chain is a transmission mechanism, the condition of which the car owner must monitor especially carefully. It is not without reason that experienced drivers advise listening to their car. Extraneous noise with jingling notes is a sure sign that it’s time to open at least the cylinder head cover, crank the crankshaft and inspect the chain, at least externally. If there are alarming signs, the chain will need to be removed and replaced. Confidence, accuracy and these instructions will help you save a considerable amount of money, because replacing a chain or belt on a “classic” costs about 2,000 rubles in the country.

If the camshaft fails

The camshaft on the VAZ 2106 model is rarely dismantled. Typically during repair or disassembly. Sometimes to replace it.

Signs

First, let's talk a little about the signs that indicate that the camshaft is faulty, its journals or beds are worn out. It is difficult to determine whether the shaft or something else is knocking in the VAZ 2106 engine, but it is possible. The knock of the camshaft is dull and clearly audible. As engine speed increases, the knocking becomes more frequent.

Some drivers determine knocking in this unit using a stethoscope or a stick through the valve cover. But often it is difficult for an inexperienced driver to do this. Therefore, the best way to diagnose the camshaft is to remove it, wash it and inspect it.

If the camshaft is faulty, the following symptoms may occur:

• a dull knock, reminiscent of hammer blows;
• it is impossible to adjust the valve clearances; while the crankshaft is turning, the camshaft is constantly in different positions.

This video shows how you can eliminate longitudinal runout of a camshaft.

The most reliable method for diagnosing problems with the VAZ 2106 camshaft is to dismantle it from the car and wash it. You can wash it in gasoline or other cleaning liquid. Next, you need to hold the shaft and hit the bed, when you hear the slightest knock, we determine whether the mechanism is worn out. Be sure to make sure that the shaft does not move in bed, because when it hits the limiter it will make a dull knock.

Removed shaft

The camshaft has a great influence on the pressure in the lubrication system. If the gaps between the bed and the camshaft are large, then the pressure will be low, and as a result, unsatisfactory lubrication of other parts.

Causes

The main malfunctions that result in the need to replace the camshaft are its wear, the appearance of various scuffs and grooves on the bearing journals. Likewise, replacing the camshaft is necessary if it is found to be deformed or cracked. When such malfunctions occur, the power unit loses power and also begins to function intermittently. Problems with the camshaft are identified by a knocking sound in the cylinder head.

The camshaft on the “six” is rarely removed. In addition to the above reasons for replacing and reconfiguring the power unit. After this, you can notice a significant increase in power, like in sports cars.

Modifications of the "six"

Machine parameters

2106 was released in many modifications, which were intended not only for the domestic market, but also for the external one. So, 21061 was considered the simplest version. Everything here is subordinated to the principle of practicality and modesty. There was no electric fan, which was already installed on all cars of Western brands, and the interior decoration was also not original. However, this version had an affordable price, which is why it was in demand.

21062 was created for export. In addition to a well-thought-out right-hand drive, it contained many elements that were never found in domestic cars sold in the USSR. 21063 is an improved version, very well equipped. But she wasn't as good as 21064.

Since the late 90s, the plant has begun serious modernization. The cars produced are also becoming more powerful. The “six” is equipped with more modern parts that meet the requirements of time and progress.

Production of the VAZ 2106 was discontinued in 2006. The model has been replaced by new designs that are stronger, more durable and stylish.